Thanks so much for this. The RockShox site doesn't even have a video for the stealth, and even though it's similar, it's nice to see the exact product you're dealing with. Tried it for the first time and it worked great. No more relying on a shop for this and now I can just bleed it when it starts to slow down a bit instead waiting for a near failure.
Here I was thinking I might have to get a whole new dropper post. One I didn’t realize that post take air and two what a simple bleeding procedure. Thanks for the very informative video.
Thanks Marc. Just done mine after watching this vid. Got loads of air out and got the pressure right. It's now super fast, just the way I like it. Thanks again.
Thanks for making this video. I'm fairly new to MTB and even newer to attempting DIY maintenance. Today my Reverb stopped working but with the help of your video I've gone from scared of the mystical world of hydraulics to a reverb bleeding ninja in 10minutes. Reverb fixed, and looking forward to getting it filthy tomorrow! Cheers! 👍🏽
Beware of nicking the "O" ring on the top bleed connector, the Bleeding Edge Tool. There seems to be a sharp edge you need to get past to seal the bleeding edge tool "O" ring in position and it very easily nicks the ring. I've gone through the "O" ring that comes on the tool trying to do the final bleed up top. The part # for the replacement "O" ring that works is an Ace hardware #60 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID. If once the tool is set (you can feel resistance before opening the valve) you apply suction with the valve closed and bubbles come up the "O" ring is not sealing and may be nicked
You should know that this video only covers the hydraulic system that actuates the seatpost, i.e. releasing it and locking it at the height you want. It won't fix any vertical play problems that people are having. Unfortunately these require the seatpost to be rebuilt. If your seatpost is under warranty, SRAM will fix or replace it, mine just came back from them, but needs this hose bleed process. There are DIYs on rebuilding the post but it complex and needs some special tools.
+Peter Wobacz only reverbs as far as I know, but may affect other droppers too. It draws air in the wrong way through the seals and the post will never lock out fully in the saddle up position, it'll be all spongy and bouncy.
+Benjamin Harvey I've got KLS crux I post. Took bike to local shop to have play in cranks removed. When mechanic fetched bike back out I realised he clamped bike by dropper post cause it left imprints in lube on scansion. Luckily nothing happened to post but God. Isn't it common sense not to do that?
+Peter Wobacz Time to get a new mechanic I reckon. I'd be well miffed! If the bike shop does need to clamp your bike in the stand they should loosen the post clamp. Expose more of the post and clamp to that. I regularly hang my bike from the saddle with the dropper up without troubles.
+Benjamin Harvey Work stands use a soft jaw clap without much actual pressure, there is very little chance that it could damage the stanchion. Also mechanics are only ever going to clamp to the seatpost to do most repairs because of the potential to crush cabling or damage the frame. Furthermore clamping to the actual body of a dropper post is usually impossible to do because of minimum insertion depth.
Pro Tip on bleeding a reverb. Pull the actuator button all the way out, it tends to get gummed and won't fully return without a little help. The seatpost will pop faster for longer.
Thankyou, I bled mine a while back with not much improvement. I didn't realise it had to be pumped up as well. Same question about the shapeshifter please as I'm also considering getting one.
My top tip: Lubricate the syringe plunger seals with a little bit of the oil before installing the plunger. Otherwise it’s impossible to move the plungers and get an easy bleed.
Can you guys do some product review videos at some point? Things like knee pads, gloves and helmets, clothing and bike parts - that kind of thing, would be very useful and interesting! Love the work guys keep it up!
Thanks for making it crystal clear Marc, looks like my Rockshox completely drained out for some reason, what would you suggest I do? I think cable and dropper post looks okay to me.
Great video. My reverb went from being stuck in bottom position to going up and down again. But there is till some play at the top (will fall like 1/4 inch down), and when trying to empty all the bubbles from the actual remote, i could not eliminate all the bubbles. They just kept coming and coming. Is this normal?
Hello, My reverb seat post got stock in upper position and won't go down. I tied to bleed it, got some air out but this didn't help. It's still stoked and not moving in any direction. Any advice will be highly appreciated
Hi, no, i looks like there is no any information on this on the internet. So far i see only one solution is to rebuild the whole thing with their full repair kit which is expensive and doesn't make any sense. I will never buy this seat post again and not recommend to anyone as it only good while it's new for the first year.
+Arthur Fritz don't be cheap, replace and properly dispose of the oil. You don't want the water and dirt that the oil collects to continue to contaminate the system.
I don't quite understand why a $400 dropper post needs, in my case, excessive maintenance. I've had mine for a month, came installed on new bike. It froze up after 3 rides. $38 later after the shop bleed, it now will either freeze up or work slow in cold temperatures (below 45F). SRAM wants me to troubleshoot it?
where is the "how to troubleshoot your reverb seatpost". mine is soggy and tried full fluid flush and rebleed but no avail. I am going to check air pressure but if that doesn't do it....will I need to do a full 50hour service???
He forgot about one think , u need to press droppost button which relase dp up or down coz there might be air which will push air to the cable again , so when the surenges are on u need to press few time button , its same with brakes ....
tried this, worked for 2 days then same old problem. gonna throw the damn post in the bin. new one is about the same price as getting it serviced too lmao.
Hi guys, I came off my bike today and with my reverb dropped, when I crashed out, I ripped off the hose from the remote. How do I proceed with a bleed when the post is down? Cheers Dan
So what about if you have a bike yoke dehy kit? I am considering buying the dehy, but I don't know how to bleed the post with one. Is the only hydraulic part of the reverb system the lever and hose?
Dear GMBN, should I put my Reverb in down position while I check the pressure or it doesn't matter? It seems to pressure get higher when post is in down position
I've been through that exact process twice, and to many times without the pumping, the first couple times was after installation and plane travel, now my reverb has got a bit of suspension when it's extended and won't stay all the way down, i've bled it and pumped it up, there's absolutely no air in the system and it's definitely pumped up to 250psi, if anyone could give me a suggestion?
Louis Diomede did you ever figure out your problem? I've got the same issue with my reverb. Won't stay up nor fix in down position either. What did you ever find? Thanks
Hi guys, I'm trying to purchase the tools not included with the kit but don't want to get the wrong one, could you point me in the right direction please? Mint channel too! Cheers Jon
Thanks a lot guys. I've done the bleeding and the pressure check. I'm having stealth post. #askthedon When I put my seatpost down. When I lift my but it does come back up just 10mm, enough to annoy me. It's like saying helllo I'm here. Any idea why this 10mm rise is happening? p.s. I believe the fluid is mineral oil and it's ok for your skin. p.s.2 I had some issues with the valve. It was releasing all the air when you remove the pump. I used shreder valve tool to un-tight and tight it which fixed it for me. Cheers, Vasil
I first watched the official reverb bleed vid just above this one and they tell you to put 80ml of fluid in one syringe and 20ml in the other, just wandering why if on this vid you clearly don't have to do it that way??
My seatpost has been bleed and I have turned the dial to fast speed but it is coming up slower than it was, I've put the pressure in the post to 250psi and still no luck. Any tips?
Hey.. Hi.. I have reverb stealth seatpost on my scott genius. It has about 5-6mm of vertical play .. When i sit on it, it depresses about 5-6mm. Is this usual ? Would bleeding it help or is it any other problem? Please help..
Well I have to say....... reading through some of these comments & questions...... I can now understand why some people really do need to wear helmets 😂
doesn't the air leak out when you unscrew the shockpump ? if i set the pressure to 250, then remove then reatatch it say's its at 200 psi. so what i did was adding more pressure up to 300 then unscrew so there is 250psi in the post.
I went through the same thing with my first full suspension. Research told me that the air escaping when you take off the pump is the air in the pump's hose. When you plug it back in, the pressure drops because it has to fill up the hose. So, whatever your gauge reads is what you got, just have to trust your tools.
Giving eye contact while pumping the post up will probably give me nightmares tonight Marc...thanks.
Marc, thanks for making it weird by making eye contact while pumping it up.
Well done! I have bled my Reverb dropper using the Rock Shox instructions but this video is so much better and clearer. Thanks!
This is one of my jobs at the weekend and I am now properly prepared. Thanks man, much appreciated.
Perfectly explained, my dropper was working like new after bleeding it following the instructions given, thanks!
Thanks so much for this. The RockShox site doesn't even have a video for the stealth, and even though it's similar, it's nice to see the exact product you're dealing with. Tried it for the first time and it worked great. No more relying on a shop for this and now I can just bleed it when it starts to slow down a bit instead waiting for a near failure.
Just learned about the speed knob. Went from thinking it needed a bleed, to better than when I first used it!
Here I was thinking I might have to get a whole new dropper post. One I didn’t realize that post take air and two what a simple bleeding procedure. Thanks for the very informative video.
Mint video. My post has been fooked for months so I gave it a go and it works now....almost by accident...
Thanks Marc. Just done mine after watching this vid. Got loads of air out and got the pressure right. It's now super fast, just the way I like it. Thanks again.
Brought my reverb back to life thanks to this video, thanks👌🏼
Great instructional video, I bled the reverb and loads of air was bled out of the hydraulic system and means my reverb works as it should.
excellent vid. bled my reverb and pumped it up to its required pressure. works like new and took just 1/2 an hour to do.
Thanks for making this video. I'm fairly new to MTB and even newer to attempting DIY maintenance. Today my Reverb stopped working but with the help of your video I've gone from scared of the mystical world of hydraulics to a reverb bleeding ninja in 10minutes.
Reverb fixed, and looking forward to getting it filthy tomorrow!
Cheers! 👍🏽
Dit it stoped in cold wheter
Beware of nicking the "O" ring on the top bleed connector, the Bleeding Edge Tool. There seems to be a sharp edge you need to get past to seal the bleeding edge tool "O" ring in position and it very easily nicks the ring. I've gone through the "O" ring that comes on the tool trying to do the final bleed up top. The part # for the replacement "O" ring that works is an Ace hardware #60 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID. If once the tool is set (you can feel resistance before opening the valve) you apply suction with the valve closed and bubbles come up the "O" ring is not sealing and may be nicked
Marc concentrating on pumping air into the post at 7:06 haha
You should know that this video only covers the hydraulic system that actuates the seatpost, i.e. releasing it and locking it at the height you want. It won't fix any vertical play problems that people are having. Unfortunately these require the seatpost to be rebuilt. If your seatpost is under warranty, SRAM will fix or replace it, mine just came back from them, but needs this hose bleed process. There are DIYs on rebuilding the post but it complex and needs some special tools.
Nice to see Tim Roth doing the instruction..
Reverb top tip! Never suspend the bike from the saddle with the post in, as you'll F it right up!
Not only reverb tip I take it.
+Peter Wobacz only reverbs as far as I know, but may affect other droppers too. It draws air in the wrong way through the seals and the post will never lock out fully in the saddle up position, it'll be all spongy and bouncy.
+Benjamin Harvey I've got KLS crux I post. Took bike to local shop to have play in cranks removed. When mechanic fetched bike back out I realised he clamped bike by dropper post cause it left imprints in lube on scansion. Luckily nothing happened to post but God. Isn't it common sense not to do that?
+Peter Wobacz Time to get a new mechanic I reckon. I'd be well miffed!
If the bike shop does need to clamp your bike in the stand they should loosen the post clamp. Expose more of the post and clamp to that.
I regularly hang my bike from the saddle with the dropper up without troubles.
+Benjamin Harvey Work stands use a soft jaw clap without much actual pressure, there is very little chance that it could damage the stanchion. Also mechanics are only ever going to clamp to the seatpost to do most repairs because of the potential to crush cabling or damage the frame. Furthermore clamping to the actual body of a dropper post is usually impossible to do because of minimum insertion depth.
Pro Tip on bleeding a reverb. Pull the actuator button all the way out, it tends to get gummed and won't fully return without a little help. The seatpost will pop faster for longer.
Thank you! My reverb dropper works again!
Excellent video. Just bled my first reverb and it now works like new!
Thanks for the vid, took 2 attempts but sorted my stuck post in the end!
Great video as always GMBN. Thank you.
After some fresh oil and your well sorted video, my post is back at full salute........right then.
just completed my first bleed, post works like new. Great vid, thanks!
thx dude - great video - off to do this job on the fleet now (family of 5....)
I’m 15 years old and did this today so easy with the video
Great tutorial! Worked great, and it was something my son and I could do together without me having to resist the urge to strangle him.😀
Thankyou, I bled mine a while back with not much improvement. I didn't realise it had to be pumped up as well. Same question about the shapeshifter please as I'm also considering getting one.
Excellent tutorial Marc! Thanks. Riddle's comment did make me laugh.
Thank you very much for this guide - I've just successfully bled my reverb stealth.
Thank you for this video. My first time bleeding a system, and it all went well. 👍👍👍
you GMBN guys absolutely rock thanks for all the tips. i have a dropper again
Great video, clear and precize instructions step by step 👏
My top tip: Lubricate the syringe plunger seals with a little bit of the oil before installing the plunger. Otherwise it’s impossible to move the plungers and get an easy bleed.
Friday is the best day
the dirt shed showwwww....
Very good and easy to follow video. Unlike a great deal of the other crap out there
Glad it helped Garry!
thanks buddy. didn't even know the mechanics behind them (very well) so now I have that knowledge and can see how I go if I encounter probs.
Can you guys do some product review videos at some point? Things like knee pads, gloves and helmets, clothing and bike parts - that kind of thing, would be very useful and interesting! Love the work guys keep it up!
Fantastically done. Thank you.
Thanks for making it crystal clear Marc, looks like my Rockshox completely drained out for some reason, what would you suggest I do? I think cable and dropper post looks okay to me.
Process worked perfectly today ...
... although finding I only had 50 psi in the thing probably wasn't helping.
Top. It's working fine. I would wear glasses. Thanks.
I wanna see a series start that is Marc vs Neil
Safety specs man!
please can you do a video on how to land a jump safely and well
Great video. My reverb went from being stuck in bottom position to going up and down again. But there is till some play at the top (will fall like 1/4 inch down), and when trying to empty all the bubbles from the actual remote, i could not eliminate all the bubbles. They just kept coming and coming. Is this normal?
Worked a treat. thanks!
If fluid pumps out when you try to air up the post, it means the seals are bad and needs to be rebuilt, correct?
Hello, My reverb seat post got stock in upper position and won't go down. I tied to bleed it, got some air out but this didn't help. It's still stoked and not moving in any direction. Any advice will be highly appreciated
CarsGadget Did you ever solve this issue? I am having the same problem
Hi, no, i looks like there is no any information on this on the internet. So far i see only one solution is to rebuild the whole thing with their full repair kit which is expensive and doesn't make any sense. I will never buy this seat post again and not recommend to anyone as it only good while it's new for the first year.
I have one question: Can you reuse the oil in the seringue or not?
Thank you a lot Arthur
I noticed it :), but is it important? Maybe the properties of the oil do not change...
+Arthur Fritz don't be cheap, replace and properly dispose of the oil. You don't want the water and dirt that the oil collects to continue to contaminate the system.
I don't quite understand why a $400 dropper post needs, in my case, excessive maintenance. I've had mine for a month, came installed on new bike. It froze up after 3 rides. $38 later after the shop bleed, it now will either freeze up or work slow in cold temperatures (below 45F). SRAM wants me to troubleshoot it?
where is the "how to troubleshoot your reverb seatpost". mine is soggy and tried full fluid flush and rebleed but no avail. I am going to check air pressure but if that doesn't do it....will I need to do a full 50hour service???
Could one try and increase the air pressure first? My seat post is moving up very slowly.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you
He forgot about one think , u need to press droppost button which relase dp up or down coz there might be air which will push air to the cable again , so when the surenges are on u need to press few time button , its same with brakes ....
Thank you and excellent pumping!
Thank you man!
You are awesome dude!
Great & detail explanation, thanks mate!
tried this, worked for 2 days then same old problem. gonna throw the damn post in the bin. new one is about the same price as getting it serviced too lmao.
Make sure the dropper is in the lowest position with no air in prior to the bleed process. Bleed, and then top up the air.
I have the same bike, am I right saying we got oil and syringes in the pack when the bike arrives?
Would you make a video on how to grease the linkage pivots? Would be great
great video just in time mine needs doing and I've saved it to my playlist for future reference))
Hello guys, do you have any tutorial for the old Reverb seat post?
Tanks #GMBN you are the best.
The hydraulics just activate the release? The actual post is an air pressure system?
Great video, worked perfectly!
Hi guys,
I came off my bike today and with my reverb dropped, when I crashed out, I ripped off the hose from the remote.
How do I proceed with a bleed when the post is down?
Cheers
Dan
Hello, can you help me. When I pump air pressure , droper goes down. What is the problem?
So what about if you have a bike yoke dehy kit? I am considering buying the dehy, but I don't know how to bleed the post with one. Is the only hydraulic part of the reverb system the lever and hose?
its almost like he was trying to convince himself that this is the way to do it lol
hi my seatpost tub dont stay down when push bec com on what u sujest thanks
Any idea what the problem is if my Reverb has a loose lever and the seat post won’t go down?
will this process fix the problem of the seat going down while sitting on it and not pressing the remote?
Fantastic, this was awesome thanks
Dear GMBN, should I put my Reverb in down position while I check the pressure or it doesn't matter? It seems to pressure get higher when post is in down position
I've been through that exact process twice, and to many times without the pumping, the first couple times was after installation and plane travel, now my reverb has got a bit of suspension when it's extended and won't stay all the way down, i've bled it and pumped it up, there's absolutely no air in the system and it's definitely pumped up to 250psi, if anyone could give me a suggestion?
Louis Diomede did you ever figure out your problem? I've got the same issue with my reverb. Won't stay up nor fix in down position either. What did you ever find?
Thanks
Thanks a lot for that useful video !
As always - great content guys! Keep it up!
Can i use shimano hydraulic oil as alternative?
Hi guys,
I'm trying to purchase the tools not included with the kit but don't want to get the wrong one, could you point me in the right direction please? Mint channel too!
Cheers
Jon
Thanks. I have this problem right now. Solved.
you are my saviour!
Can you bleed reverb a1 when not 'mounted' on bike?
Thanks a lot guys. I've done the bleeding and the pressure check. I'm having stealth post.
#askthedon When I put my seatpost down. When I lift my but it does come back up just 10mm, enough to annoy me. It's like saying helllo I'm here. Any idea why this 10mm rise is happening?
p.s. I believe the fluid is mineral oil and it's ok for your skin.
p.s.2 I had some issues with the valve. It was releasing all the air when you remove the pump. I used shreder valve tool to un-tight and tight it which fixed it for me.
Cheers,
Vasil
Do you have to use reverb oil?
I first watched the official reverb bleed vid just above this one and they tell you to put 80ml of fluid in one syringe and 20ml in the other, just wandering why if on this vid you clearly don't have to do it that way??
Got myself a spangly new 2016 one so need anymore (I bloody hope so anyway!)
Thank you.
My seatpost still has 5mm of slack, after bleeding and flushing. Can the reverb fluid get to old?
Very good thanks.
you should de-gas the dot fluid
My seatpost has been bleed and I have turned the dial to fast speed but it is coming up slower than it was, I've put the pressure in the post to 250psi and still no luck. Any tips?
Hey.. Hi.. I have reverb stealth seatpost on my scott genius. It has about 5-6mm of vertical play .. When i sit on it, it depresses about 5-6mm. Is this usual ? Would bleeding it help or is it any other problem? Please help..
can you make a rewiew of cube 240 sl
Torx with an X. Torque is the measure of force applied (ish)!!!
My seatpost is not going completly Down, should this tutorial fix that Problem too?
Well I have to say....... reading through some of these comments & questions...... I can now understand why some people really do need to wear helmets 😂
doesn't the air leak out when you unscrew the shockpump ? if i set the pressure to 250, then remove then reatatch it say's its at 200 psi. so what i did was adding more pressure up to 300 then unscrew so there is 250psi in the post.
I went through the same thing with my first full suspension. Research told me that the air escaping when you take off the pump is the air in the pump's hose. When you plug it back in, the pressure drops because it has to fill up the hose. So, whatever your gauge reads is what you got, just have to trust your tools.
+Mike Riddle thnx man, that makes a lot of sense!