Honda CRV B20B Valve stem seal replacement.
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video I show you how to replace the valve stem seals on a Honda b20b with out removing the cylinder head, belts or timing cover. after the repair I drove the CRV for a week and it no longer burns oil, It had previously been burning oil when it was hot at idle.
this is not a play by play how to video, its for advanced techs who know how to do most of this stuff already.
A trick to delay this project is to use Bars oil stop leak. Like I managed to delay this job for two years after I started to get morning smoking after idling to long before shutting off the night before. Well the water pump is leaking so time to do both of these jobs now. The B20B4 tool is available when googled and checked for use on the B20B4 for around $80 + ship & tax. I found a knock off on eBay that looks like yours and good for Mitsubishi 4G63 and 4G63T. I am getting the tool that is thicker like yours not the thinner ones. $33 for this one. This is a one time job for me so the $ make sense for me. Wish me luck.
you can do it..
Mine smokes during idle on drive in long lines or traffic for a min and goes away, I also have a 01 CRV. Is this the problem for that solution the valve seals?
yes that will be your problem, at idle your crv makes the highest vacuum in the intake manifold and if the valve stem seals are no longer soft oil will get by them and you will see oil burning at idle, it will clean up as you drive because Rpm goes up and Vacuum goes down.
@@A2J_Tim thanks so much for the info! My mechanic is working on it now
How much time did it take you to do the whole job to replace the valve seals? Thanks.
I dont recall now, probably 5 or 6 hours.
Hey awesome video! I have a question. What problems did have that made you change the valve stem seals? My 1999 CRV is burning a lot of oil at idle and I did some research and it’s saying the valve stem seals. I also reas that I could have a burnt valve? Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.
your problem is most likely valves stem seals like the problem in my video. If you had a burnt valve you will lose compression in that cylinder and it will develop a miss fire at idle and low rpm and it will eventually get so bad that it will constantly miss fire even at higher rpms.
Its my opinion that leaking valve stem seals will cause a burnt valve if its not fixed.
I hope this helps.
How much oil were you burning? I am just curious because on mine i am burning a quart every 600-700 miles.
I honestly dont recall, it was my moms vehicle and she told me it was burning oil so we took care of it right away, oil burning stopped right after the repair.
Whats the part number for the tool you’re using? Great video!
www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor/
you are not lined up, tdc is the single notch on the harmonic balancer
Thanks for the vid! Would a valve clearance adjustment be necessary after?
you can if you they are out of spec, I kept all the rockers in a box in the same order they came out so that they could go back in the same spots they came from, I also checked the clearance before hand and every thing was in spec, if its in spec and the rockers go back in the same spot a clearance adjustment is not required.
Hey I am attempting to do my valve stem seal job the easy way as in your video. I am wondering once you get the belt zip tied to the cam shaft gears, if you just pulled both off without loosening the timing belt.
I didnt video it but in the end I ended up cutting the zipties and getting them back on with a pry bar and then checking the timing after ward, its a little bit difficult but it can be done.
I noticed the 3 notches vs the single one on the right side. Would the single notch still line the cams to the head too? Why did they design the other 3 notches for?
I apparently got that wrong, I guess the 1 notch is tdc, the other 3 are timing marks.
funny enough the crv drives fine and have had no issues with the timing a little bit off.
I take it you have to adjust the valves after you’re done ?
you can if you like, But If you put the rockers back in the same place they came from and if they are in spec when you start then no you dont. I checked them after the job and they did not require an adjustment.
Thank you for your response :)
Another thing is do I keep the cam gears zip tied with the timing belt up until I reinstall them, to ensure timing is correct ? I’m worried if they’re both off and zip tied, and I start turning the crank pulley to get 3 and 4 to TDC, the bottom part of the timing belt might skip teeth, since there is no longer tension being acted upon it. Maybe I’m overthinking ? Thank you again
@@TheFoxyPlayer On this job I ended up cutting the zip ties off, I just didnt film it. I found it was a little bit difficult to get the cam gears back on with the timing belt on them as the tension-er is pulling tight. but yes you can jump a tooth, but its not something to be worried about. As long as you lock your cams in place with the locking pin holes and your crank shaft stays on the TDC mark when your reinstalling the cam gears you will be in time. once installed always turn the engine over by hand at least twice to check that your timing marks are still lined up, if they are not then you may be off a tooth. If you are not comfortable doing it this way you should maybe take the timing cover off and completely remove the belt and reinstall as per timing belt procedure. I just did it this way to save on the time of removing the two belts and lower timing cover.
also I will admit that I messed up my timing in this video as a commenter pointed out "
@splok2
"you are not lined up, tdc is the single notch on the harmonic balancer"
so im probably actually off a tooth based on the crank shaft mark I used. but that is where it was lined up when I took it apart, lol. I should have checked that when I was putting it back together but assumed the last guy who did the timing belt job had it correct. That is my fault, but the vehicle ran fine and drove fine and is still running fine, it just has slightly retarded cam timing which if it were turboed would improve low end spool up haha.
So you managed to get the timing belt off and back on without loosening the tensioner ?
Came here to see how to remove the stem seal... Only thing you didnt show...
sorry. I used a heal bar and pulled up from under the seal rim, some of them I just grabbed with plyers and pulled up.
That’s because it is a pain in the a$$. To remove them. I can tell you from experience. You have to use a good old fashioned pair of pliers and pinch them at the top and squeeze rotate squeeze rotate wiggle and pull then it will pop off. Figure on spending about 15 minutes per seal to get it off.
@@t.c.robinson6608 I dont remember it being difficult at all, like 30 seconds each.
I literally had to saw mine in half, they were so stuck on there.
how tightly pressed in do your seals go? I've damaged 2 by tapping too hard. but the old ones are easily 1/16" inch tighter into the head :S
if you press on them my hand you can feel a little click or notch the seal goes over. if you want to be absolutely sure you can measure the height of the old one before removing and tap the new one down a little at a time till you get to the same measurement. I have done so many I just do them by feel, you can feel it on the hammer when its bottomed, but remember gentle taps.
Ok where do you get the tool? I am having trouble finding a tool for a Honda b20b4 engine?.
the website is written on the tool if you pause it.
You should have shown how much of a pain in the a$$ they are to remove. And also emphasized on how to tap on the new ones. Tap and listen for sound change, that means you have bottomed out. A good bright light as you tap on is a very good visual you can see them stop as they bottom out. As for removing you need a good old fashioned pair of pliers and squeeze them at the top and turn and squeeze and turn several times while wiggling and pulling, then they will pop off. Best figure on about 15 minutes per seal to get them off. Honda B20