La Sportiva FUTURA Review - Same Last as Solution, Skwama, Miura (NO EDGE)
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- Опубліковано 17 чер 2020
- Everyone needs a pair of No Edge shoes! The La Sportiva Futura Climbing Shoe is one of my new favorite shoes. I hope you enjoy this review!
They compliment my Scarpa Instincts very well. The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber is ideal for smearing and quick inaccurate foot movements.
The best part of the shoes is the combo of the good toe and heel. They have the last as my La Sportiva Maverinks, but the closure system allows them to be used to cams, heel and toe hooks.
These shoes are built on the same last as these other La Sportiva's (aka built on the same mold).
Solution
Miura
Otaki
Kataki
Skwama
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Dude, you're so good at shoe reviews. I learned a lot from this video, for real.
Thanks man! Appreciate all the good vibes. Still haven't gotten around to watching your reviews. Love seeing different perspectives so I'll check them out shortly.
@@BomberBeta Haha dude, don't even trip. I'm a total noob compared to you. Super nice of you to share that link with subscribers that need it. I'll pass for now since I still have to run the Instincts through its paces! Keep up the good work.
Haha thanks! You seem to know and thing or two so don't sell yourself short. Hit me up anytime!
Bummer that we don't see the link to the place to purchase the shoes online anymore 😥😥
I’m interested in the futura I currently only in stings does anybody know if the instinct stretch I left big toe is killing me
If I use the Futura only in the gym and then climb outdoor with an edge shoe, would that feel weird?
I'd like to make the point that being built on the same last, does not at all mean that they have the same fit. Maverinks are shoes with low asymmetry while the futuras have higher asymmetry and downturn and thus performance. Solutions fit waay different to skwamas etc etc. My katana laces are built on the pd75 last as well, but are completely different shoes to my solutions.
Another note - colourful rubber does not mean slippery. Geniuses have red rubber on the heel, but its just red grip2 rubber. It has a shiny coating on it when new that needs to be broken in for some reason but its good rubber. Same goes for pythons etc etc
Nic, thanks for adding these points. I agree that the shoes are not the same shoes but I feel like they generally feet the same foot shape. I apologize if that was unclear or misleading. Obviously you should try on the shoes and see what they feel like to you. I just wanted to make the point that if you like one shoe built on the PD75 last you might like this other shoes built on that same last. My experience with the Genius are different from you. The rubber on the heel seemed to be the same as the P3 band and I struggled to get friction on heel hooks. I'll have to revisit that subject. Again thanks for your additional information for the review. Always appreciate it!
Nic, thanks again for your input. I've been doing more research on the heel rubber and it seems like I was sandbagged by the coating you mentioned. I don't understand why they would sell shoes like that. I'd pick the shoes up that I mentioned in the review and just feel how slick the heel was. I never considered the need to wear off a layer in order to make the shoes perform well. Again thanks for the insight!
@@BomberBeta thanks for the reply! I don't understand the shiny coating addition to the heel either, doesn't make much sense to me, but they certainly get much better with time. That said, i have a tiny heel, so the genius heel is a bit loose for me.
@@BomberBeta Hey, climbed in genius and now in theory, both have the colored rubber on the heal and I never had any issue. Love your videos btw!
@@d3RrRp hey I appreciate you verifying that! How are the theorys? They look pretty dope. Haven't had a chance to try them.
Futuras particularly the women’s version are my favourite shoe but absolute least favourite strap. I’ve broken so many of them ;(
Oh dang that's not good. How long did you wear them before it broke?
@@BomberBeta it varies the worst was like 2 months, I now tighten them much more carefully but it shouldn't be something you are worrying about when u are trying to send lol
Very true. Similar thing happened to a pair of Instincts but that was after about a year. Did you get the Futuras repaired?
_Note: It has been pointed out that the comment about the colored heel rubber is not correct. When the shoes are brand new there is a slick coating on the colored heel rubber that La Sportiva puts out. I had never worn a shoe that had the coating worn off (this section of the video has been edited out)._
So anyone wanting the link to the website (update: website is pretty dead on the deals I described in the video, if it changes I'll update this comment again) I mentioned in the video just needs to email me here: bomberbeta.com/contact/
Just mention what your looking for and I'll send it over. Bonus if you like this video and subscribe to the channel! Thanks for watching!
If you like the instinct and like the grip2 rubber ... instinct VSR🙃
Very true. I specifically like the No Edge grip rubber of these but I have considered getting a pair of VSRs once I find a good deal. I believe the women's Instincts also have the XS Grip 2 rubber.
@@BomberBeta thats true the vsr wmn are grip 2 and a nice colour! But just up to Size 42. My vsr are 43,5 🙈
For overhangs they are great but on long lines full of little nothings to stand on (without hooks) i go with the vapor v's ... maybe i should try the mago's 🤔
No fanboy! I also like boreal 😅
Never tryed no edge because la sportiva don't fit my wide feet. Maybe i should take a look on andrea boldrini. They hab no edge🤔
Too bad they only make the smaller sizes. I think the heel cup is narrower too. Once you find a brand that fits good I'd sick with it. Fun to try different stuff out but I have my shoes I always good to in certain situations. Have heard of those last pair of shoes. I'll have to check them out.
What did you do for sizing what would you recommend??
I recommend watching this video ua-cam.com/video/nZ8sRpslDVA/v-deo.html
If you need further recommendations contact me and I'll help.
Once worn down don’t all shoes become no edge?
😂😂😂
Also when a normal shoe gets to the no edge point it's probably time for a resole or you'll blow through the rand in a session or two...
you spell your name wrong bro