@@uenragedbro You got that right. Just inspected a 20 Explorer ST this week and it had two bushings and bolts in the rear differential. Not sure why Ford would remove one on the 21? It also had both cv boots blown out and the front axle disconnect o-ring leaking on the oil pan soaking it.
Does the recall come off OASIS once it’s been performed at the dealership? Seems like it will fail again? I was hoping they’d add a second bolt to the recall.
Had the recall fixed on my 2020 explorer, took them more than a day to do and now my rear passenger side tire pressure sensor stopped working. Does the repair require removing/messing with the tires and could the dealership have messed it up in the process? Super informative and to the point video btw, good work.
Also was curious about if it would actually take from 10-5 one day then be ready at 3 pm the following day or was the dealership just screwing me over? Fun note we drove an hour to go pick it up and they forgot to put the keys in the car for us to pick up after hours. Good ole times with dealerships.
Thanks! The rear tires have to be removed but that won't affect a tire pressure sensor which is inside the tire. I have an Autel TS408 and can ping sensors directly next to the valve stem to check serial number, pressure and temperature of each sensor. Your dealer or any tire shop will have a tool to perform a quick check. If it doesn't respond to the TPMS tool then the sensor is dead and will need replaced. If the sensor is good then the TPMS system needs to be relearned.
I'm taking my Explorer in to get this done next Monday. They have to have the vehicle for FIVE days and Ford won't supply a complimentary rental car, etc. Sucks! Oh well, I'll just work from home and do an office week.
Ugh..I have subframe bushing inserts, poly diff carrier bushings, Steeda diff brace and rear sway bar and full BBK in the back. Almost feel like I should put all the stock parts back on before taking it in for this to be done. I just don't trust anyone else to work on my car
Fortunately I'm in the industry cause I have trust issues also. I wouldn't return it to stock but would have it inspected after repairs are complete just to make sure everything looks intact and tight 🤞
Definitely. It should drive just like before. You should notice no difference in the way it drives. If you are having issues, I would get it back in and have all the suspension components inspected asap.
Were you able to do one that way? I looked for the cheat but found it virtually impossible to press the large bushing out and back in with the differential in place.
remove shielding, remove driveshaft support bolts but leave driveshaft connected to transmission. Support rear diff and remove rear diff bolts. Remove rear sway bar bolts and lower the back part of the subframe. you'll have enough room for the removal tool and you have easier access to install the bushing.
yes I've done it multiple times. I have the Ford tools but the bolt is not holding up. Had to switch to grade 8 all-thread and grade 8 nuts but even that only does 3-4 recalls. Going to try cutting it out as mentioned above.
Nice job!
Ford always keeps guys in work
😂
The job also takes forever and it pays shit lol most of these cars have extra problems with them, that's the only way to make up time
@@uenragedbro You got that right. Just inspected a 20 Explorer ST this week and it had two bushings and bolts in the rear differential. Not sure why Ford would remove one on the 21? It also had both cv boots blown out and the front axle disconnect o-ring leaking on the oil pan soaking it.
@@raincitywrench117 yep that disconnect o-ring is great right now because there's no labor op for it so warranty pays you mtime
@@uenragedbro Thanks for the info, didn't know that. ProDemand has 8.5Hr for disconnect and TSB 23-2114 has 2hr 😆
Does the recall come off OASIS once it’s been performed at the dealership? Seems like it will fail again? I was hoping they’d add a second bolt to the recall.
Yea. It will disappear from outstanding field service then show up in warranty repair history.
Had the recall fixed on my 2020 explorer, took them more than a day to do and now my rear passenger side tire pressure sensor stopped working. Does the repair require removing/messing with the tires and could the dealership have messed it up in the process? Super informative and to the point video btw, good work.
Also was curious about if it would actually take from 10-5 one day then be ready at 3 pm the following day or was the dealership just screwing me over? Fun note we drove an hour to go pick it up and they forgot to put the keys in the car for us to pick up after hours. Good ole times with dealerships.
Thanks! The rear tires have to be removed but that won't affect a tire pressure sensor which is inside the tire. I have an Autel TS408 and can ping sensors directly next to the valve stem to check serial number, pressure and temperature of each sensor. Your dealer or any tire shop will have a tool to perform a quick check. If it doesn't respond to the TPMS tool then the sensor is dead and will need replaced. If the sensor is good then the TPMS system needs to be relearned.
Passenger side rear tire is not removed to do this recall. OASIS only instructs tech to remove driver rear knuckle.
I'm taking my Explorer in to get this done next Monday. They have to have the vehicle for FIVE days and Ford won't supply a complimentary rental car, etc. Sucks! Oh well, I'll just work from home and do an office week.
Hope all goes well 🤞
Ugh..I have subframe bushing inserts, poly diff carrier bushings, Steeda diff brace and rear sway bar and full BBK in the back. Almost feel like I should put all the stock parts back on before taking it in for this to be done. I just don't trust anyone else to work on my car
Fortunately I'm in the industry cause I have trust issues also. I wouldn't return it to stock but would have it inspected after repairs are complete just to make sure everything looks intact and tight 🤞
What happens if you take car in for this and you car starts swaying afterwards did forget to tighten something?
Definitely. It should drive just like before. You should notice no difference in the way it drives. If you are having issues, I would get it back in and have all the suspension components inspected asap.
you can do it without removing the rear diff
Were you able to do one that way? I looked for the cheat but found it virtually impossible to press the large bushing out and back in with the differential in place.
Cut out bushing, air hammer the sleeve out, put new bushing in freezer, put new bushing in
remove shielding, remove driveshaft support bolts but leave driveshaft connected to transmission. Support rear diff and remove rear diff bolts. Remove rear sway bar bolts and lower the back part of the subframe. you'll have enough room for the removal tool and you have easier access to install the bushing.
@@woodmatters9247Have you done this before? Really curious on how to do it this way🙏🏻 That subframe drops low enough?
yes I've done it multiple times. I have the Ford tools but the bolt is not holding up. Had to switch to grade 8 all-thread and grade 8 nuts but even that only does 3-4 recalls. Going to try cutting it out as mentioned above.
All that for 3.1 hours
It's almost criminal 😂 Pays 3.1 with differential cover replacement & only 2.6hr without