Pretty well the way I changed my first u-joint about 50 years ago on my '68 F100 when I was 16 years old. It's good to see some things haven't changed. I never thought of the direction of the grease nipple though until I greased it on the truck. Cheers.
For the rusted stuff….Just use a ball joint U joint removal tool (rent it for free from O’Reillys) with an impact…..spray some PB blaster and takes 10 seconds to remove……
Awesome video as always. Whenever I work on an older driveshaft with caps that are really stuck I use an acetylene torch and cut the joints apart. The shaft stays relatively cool and then I can knock the caps out directly. Is this a dad way to do it? I learned this as a mechanic 40 years ago working my way through college.
Thank you for making this video. After components are replaces and things are back the way they were, does the whole shaft need to be balanced afterward?
Ideally, yes. But if you mark all the parts before disassembling and then put the shaft back together the same way you may get lucky and not need a re-balance. Only if you still have high speed vibrations after re-build and re-install would we recommend bringing the shaft to a local shop to be balanced.
I'm having issues getting my u joints out of my rear drive shaft. Basically I've done exactly everything on this video. It's still stuck in there. I have pictures if anyone can help??
Hey guys, how do I get the centering ball out of the flange it is housed in? The dust seal came right off but the ball itself isn’t budging. Any advice? @tomwoodscustomdriveshafts7159
In theory it is possible to get the ball and seat out but it is really difficult to do. We have a special expanding collet slide hammer and even with that it is nearly impossible. At least, it is nearly impossible to remove the ball and seat without damaging the socket yoke/flange, especially the seat. So in practice, the best way to replace the centering ball is to replace the entire socket yoke/flange.
Pretty well the way I changed my first u-joint about 50 years ago on my '68 F100 when I was 16 years old. It's good to see some things haven't changed. I never thought of the direction of the grease nipple though until I greased it on the truck. Cheers.
That hand/ eye coordination with that hammer is impeccable!! Nice job
I put little marks on the shaft with a grinder before I take it apart, grinder marks won’t come off with handling like paint or marker will
Outstanding Video! Thank you for producing it.
This is a great video, thanks for this! (Insane it only has 700 views!!??)
I know, right?! I guess the UA-cam algorithm gods haven't taken notice of it yet.
Very good but wish he had worked with the old shaft. Thanks
video would be 5 hours long😂
For the rusted stuff….Just use a ball joint U joint removal tool (rent it for free from O’Reillys) with an impact…..spray some PB blaster and takes 10 seconds to remove……
Awesome video as always. Whenever I work on an older driveshaft with caps that are really stuck I use an acetylene torch and cut the joints apart. The shaft stays relatively cool and then I can knock the caps out directly. Is this a dad way to do it? I learned this as a mechanic 40 years ago working my way through college.
Great video, thanks.
Thank you for making this video. After components are replaces and things are back the way they were, does the whole shaft need to be balanced afterward?
Ideally, yes. But if you mark all the parts before disassembling and then put the shaft back together the same way you may get lucky and not need a re-balance. Only if you still have high speed vibrations after re-build and re-install would we recommend bringing the shaft to a local shop to be balanced.
How critical are the thickness of the spring clips?
i was thinking same. spicer has atleast 3 different thickness of those
@@Jakedelus Given some thoughts on this, I would think it affects the run out of the tube as it can shift the u joint in one direction or the other.
The thickness is very important and not only that, how good is it to hammer a bearing? Just saying...
How do you change a driv e shaft on 2016 Honda pioneer 3 seater
No grease?
I'm having issues getting my u joints out of my rear drive shaft. Basically I've done exactly everything on this video. It's still stuck in there. I have pictures if anyone can help??
Heat, beat and if that doesn't work google "Tiger Tool"
Did you ever get them out (new & greenish‘06 ram2500 5.9L owner)?
You cut the best part lol “wd-40 has left the table”
LOL.....I was waiting for the can to bounce off as well...cheers.
Why nit work the usd ine like the rest of us?
WD-40 should leave the shop- PB Blaster is 10x better
Hey guys, how do I get the centering ball out of the flange it is housed in? The dust seal came right off but the ball itself isn’t budging. Any advice? @tomwoodscustomdriveshafts7159
In theory it is possible to get the ball and seat out but it is really difficult to do. We have a special expanding collet slide hammer and even with that it is nearly impossible. At least, it is nearly impossible to remove the ball and seat without damaging the socket yoke/flange, especially the seat. So in practice, the best way to replace the centering ball is to replace the entire socket yoke/flange.
@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts Copy that! Thank you!