Відео

Great explanation and a lot to learn from! Thanks

Great Vid! Colion Noir and Brandon Herrera for director of the ATF. Excellent work! Thank you for sharing :)

I can agree with everything he said. I spoke with Troy who did all that helping with my order for my 04 Land Rover Disco 2 HSE, this Tues evening. They made it and shipped it out today, as promised. It makes me feel even better, buying USA & buying a hi-performance part. The drivetrain is a weak link on the Discos. The only thing..is no one will know it’s there but me!! Peace of mind and one less problem to worry about on my girl! Very happy..customer!!🙏🏻😊💕⭐️

No mention of joint PHASING on driveshafts! Also, with a double cardan, the end that is attached to the driveshaft will require a fixed support, otherwise the joint will flop around.

This is my life right now with a 2 piece c1500 driveshaft! So frustrating.

I put little marks on the shaft with a grinder before I take it apart, grinder marks won’t come off with handling like paint or marker will

Showing the double cardan assembly helps me a lot, thanks

Another Aussie and new sub ... Robby sent me. Thanks for helping our mate Lynchy... Mega Kudos

I cant believe how hard I made this simple task with my technique... Anyways my life is easier because of this video. Thank you!

Robby sent me

Robbie sent me Sub'ed.

Robby sent me over Subscribed

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

This is the best illustrated and explained video I have seen by far ,it clearly explains the limitations and cause of driveshaft failure and vibrations. The only thing I'd like to have covered is the phasing of the UJ's on either end of the prop shaft where UJ's are not aligned, the reasons for phasing and what it solves or maybe just tries to smooth out the transmission or vibrations?

So I have a 93 f150 and at about 45 its shakes and at like 70 it goes away

Ok, so according to your video I have an angle problem, now how do I fix it.

I'm still confused, where does the turbo encabulator fit into this explanation?

Instead of taking the driveshaft out to check balance. What if the back of the vehicle is jacked up and the rear tires taken off. Then put it into manual at the gear used for highway and put rpm at highway speeds. Would that work? Mine vibrates at 55 and above, new tires been balanced twice. Wondering what is causing it.

Pretty well the way I changed my first u-joint about 50 years ago on my '68 F100 when I was 16 years old. It's good to see some things haven't changed. I never thought of the direction of the grease nipple though until I greased it on the truck. Cheers.

Best video on YT. Well done! Subscribed.

Still don't understand? I still don't understand why these guys always have tattoos. I'm a physics professor. For some reason, I don't need tattoos. That i don't understand either. Still glad I don't have them.

Hi and thanks for the detailed video! I have a question though : adding a slip yoke eliminator and a double cardan will eventually completely ruin the caster. How do you fix the caster issue? cutting the axle and welding the ends in the new correct caster for e.x??? thanks!

Mine rattles only in neutral or going very slow

After working on jeep suspension for quite a few years, I learned that with a double cardan joint driveshaft, 1.5 degrees axle to driveshaft angle for a 4 link is the sweet spot. With leaf springs you need 3-4 degrees.

Excellent show. Every none skilled guy will understand how it works and have to be

I just want to point out that where he talks about lifting pinion and throwing off caster, there is a solution. You cut the welds on the axle tube, set your pinion, then set the caster angle and reweld. It's not rocket science.

Hahahaha My name is Tom Wood as well

4:45 lol

Wow, I came here hoping to find a few answers to questions and left with a full education on driveshaft angle. Thank you!!! Absolutely top notch!

An issue im facing whenever doing ujoints up here in the rust belt is that no matter how careful I am on the disassembly, somehow the replacement joint is too wide to get the clips in properly. On severely rusted shafts I will cut out the trunnion and push the caps into the center so as to not break the grooves. Ive resorted to grinding a wee bit of the caps down, I don't like doing this but I have no choice. Is this the fault of cheap aftermarket joints or am I bending the yokes without realizing it? Been struggling with this issue for a long time.

How sad to see so many ignorant fools today who have mutilated large portions of their body through tattoos and piercings, thus marring the image of God they were created in. These are not true ladies and gentlemen of moral character, but pathetic followers of the latest perverted fads.

Sounds nice until support after isn't there. After the last retube mine is worse than ever and was told to pound sand by Tom Woods. Can mark the driveline turning clocked in any orientation and tune is off center causing mine. Tom woods part I paid for but was told to pound sand.

I have a vibration at 1800 rpm and only occurs at this particular point. Any thoughts what could be causing this? Thx

How do you purge the slip yome

It would be nice if they could use a true constant velocity joint on drive shafts. The problem though is protecting the rubber boot that seals the CV joint so dirt does not get into the lubricating grease. Easy to do amongst the front or rear suspension members but hard out in the open where a traditional drive shaft is used.

VERY informative video. Thanks for this one. 👍

Ok great so I have a 1993 wrangler and I put new standard leaf springs on front and rear and it did lift the jeep some. So how do I account for that do I still need a SYE? I did notice the angle did change some because of the new stock suspension.

brillaint

Thankyou for sererating the 2 sources of vibration 1/ angle imbalance vs 2/ actual weighted imbalance

I need like a basics before these basics, video lol.... Anyone know where one of those is?? Or a book or something?!!

a dubya joynt

I had an 'old rusty shaft' that his procedure didn't work on. Tried torching it, penetrant oil, smacking it every which way, air hammer, etc. with no luck. I couldn't just buy a new shaft - because they don't make them anymore for a 34 year old car. I eventually put it on the press. I didn't put it on the press to begin with because whatever geniuses designed this shaft made the ends round and tapered with no way to squarely and safely place it on the press. I eventually managed to rig something up using various sized square steel bars bent into half circles as a mounting surface and break it free. It took _8 tons_ of force. Then I had to do it 2 more times. Having completely restored a car, this is one job I would _never_ do again. I'd pay someone else to deal with it.

2024 LEXUS GS350 FSPORT AWD...BEEN SHAKING LIKE HELL AT LOW SPEEDS, HIGH SPEEDS, INTERMITTENT, AND MOSTLY WITH SOMEONE IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. MANY PARTS REPLACED, NO HELP. NEXT ITEM TO HAVE INSPECTED AND REPLACED, REAR DRIVE SHAFT. ANYONE HAD THIS ISSUE, AND SOLVED IT?

As soon as you start thinking your gonna need to change u joints, get in there and soak everything with oil, i use the HF oiler can. Repeat every day. Capillary action and time works wonders I like to hammer on it and cause damage, done it many times

Highway driving..2deg just sayin

Or run a CV joint !

Wow this is awesome! I have a boat v-drive with a u-joint in an impossible position and I tried your method and it worked perfect. Thank you

Great information presented well, I would be happy for you to work on my vehicle anytime. Thank You.

The press machine is cheating but I guess faster...

Show it when the parts replacing are rusted and old... Just a glimpse...