Very interesting! For some reason I had always thought the oil just travelled between the wire and its insulation. But of course it makes sense that its creeping along the individual strands.
I wonder if another way to solve the oil travel issue is to remove the rubber seal, connect and wrap a fabric cover over the whole connection - pull tie in position. Remember to remove the saturated fabric (essentially a filter) regularly. I purchased a Jack last year (great cosmetic condition ut 330klms), great condition, upgraded from my 95 rodeo (480klms!) and entered the terrifying world of the 4jx1 - only two breakdowns in one year :) - injector fail and replacing the orps this week...so hope that fixes the current issue!!! :) Thanks so much for your 4jx1 vids, have watched em all so far.
Hello... Thank you Thank you and Thank you... I did all the suggestions you told me and when I replaced the oil suction rings, holy hell, the hydraulic roar went away and the engine started to start without failure and never stopped again... I only noticed that it took a few seconds to start. start and I think this is because the oil is returned to the crankcase. Perhaps it has a non-return valve so that the oil does not return because if I blow through a hose I can return the oil to the crankcase through the pump without anything preventing it from returning. Is there any anti-return to check?
What a great solution. I was wondering if I strip the insulation back part way along the wire with a wire stripper I have (Klein Tools 11063W Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper) and just apply some solder to the exposed wire directly. If I do that to each wire say 1/2" apart I won't get shorting between wires and can use RTV to seal the open soldered wire.
THE ORPS sensor eventually PUSHES oil into its 3 PINK wires. They are GROUND, 5V and info/centre. If you replace loom ALSO replace ORPS sensor. The YELLOW, BLACK, RED wires (SAME side, NEXT to each other at the engine plug are the ORPS wires. Simply NICK/small split the insulation on the 3 PINK wires that mate with the yel,blk,red wires at engine plu. These 3 pinks will eventually slowly leak oil but wont go into engine plug and beyond since there is now pressure relief at the splits. Don't cover or seal, simply spray some chain lube on it and forget. The other 7 wires are injector (5) and oil temp (2) and don't cause a problem. Too easy :)
Could oil in this connector affect oil pressure in any way? Just wondering if information between the ecu and engine is compromised by the oil conducting the voltage/signal between the pins?
Hello... The situation is that I have an Isuzu Trooper 4jx1 year 2001 that when I turn the key on the engine turns over for about 15 seconds and the engine starts but after 30 seconds running the engine stops...I try again and with difficulty It starts again, manages to stay running for about 15 seconds and stops again... This happens faster and faster until the engine manages to stay running... After a few minutes it regulates perfectly and responds to the accelerator pedal without any problem ... From then on the vehicle will work and start perfectly without smoke and without any type of problem until tomorrow I try to start it again and everything will be as I told you again... The engine has 10w30 API oil and it was cleaned the RPCV completes... I hear an intermittent roar for about three seconds in the oil circuit to the rail... that is, between the high pressure pump and the pipe that enters the rail there is a hydraulic vibration that accompanies the roar... When the engine operates normally, this roar anomaly disappears... Please request guidance on where to investigate my failure... Greetings and Thanks from San Martin de los Andes Patagonia Argentina.II
### Things to Check First 1. **Bleed the Diesel Fuel System:** - Use the hand priming pump on top of the fuel filter to remove any air from the diesel fuel filter. - Ensure the 10mm bleed bolt is open to allow air to be purged while using the hand priming pump. - Inspect/replace the fuel hoses between the diesel tank and the engine for cracks, particularly around the hose clamps, as these can allow air to enter the system. 2. Clean the Oil Rail Pressure Control Valve, located on the back of the high-pressure oil pump. Debris can cause the valve to become partially jammed in an open position, preventing the system from building up enough pressure to inject a sufficient amount of diesel for the engine to idle properly. 3. **Replace the Oil Rail Pressure Sensor:** - The sensor is located on top of the engine, under the rocker cover, on the side of the High-Pressure Oil Rail. - Over time, the Oil Rail Pressure Sensor can go out of calibration, causing the engine computer to not deliver enough fuel for the engine to idle or start properly. 4. **Check the Oil Pickup Pipes:** - There are two oil pickup pipes in the oil sump. One supplies oil to the engine, and the other supplies oil to the high-pressure diesel oil injection pump. - The O-ring inside the sump, where the oil pickup pipes bolt to the underside of the engine, can sometimes crack or leak, allowing air to be sucked in instead of oil. - To replace this O-ring, the engine oil sump must be removed to gain access. Good luck
@@donovabl Hello... first of all thank you very much for your time... It is important to add that after all these symptoms and after a few minutes the vehicle works perfectly without any anomaly and without any smoke and another thing that I noticed is that when the truck is started for the first time, the accelerator responds and after about two minutes it starts to fail and to make its mistake, which makes me think that if after several attempts the engine works the same as new, which parts would be compromised.
Very interesting! For some reason I had always thought the oil just travelled between the wire and its insulation.
But of course it makes sense that its creeping along the individual strands.
I wonder if another way to solve the oil travel issue is to remove the rubber seal, connect and wrap a fabric cover over the whole connection - pull tie in position. Remember to remove the saturated fabric (essentially a filter) regularly. I purchased a Jack last year (great cosmetic condition ut 330klms), great condition, upgraded from my 95 rodeo (480klms!) and entered the terrifying world of the 4jx1 - only two breakdowns in one year :) - injector fail and replacing the orps this week...so hope that fixes the current issue!!! :) Thanks so much for your 4jx1 vids, have watched em all so far.
fantastic video, more to come .. GOd bless
Absolutely GOD BLESS...great to see another believer :)
This info is gold. Thank you so much
Hello... Thank you Thank you and Thank you...
I did all the suggestions you told me and when I replaced the oil suction rings, holy hell, the hydraulic roar went away and the engine started to start without failure and never stopped again... I only noticed that it took a few seconds to start. start and I think this is because the oil is returned to the crankcase. Perhaps it has a non-return valve so that the oil does not return because if I blow through a hose I can return the oil to the crankcase through the pump without anything preventing it from returning. Is there any anti-return to check?
What a great solution.
I was wondering if I strip the insulation back part way along the wire with a wire stripper I have (Klein Tools 11063W Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper) and just apply some solder to the exposed wire directly. If I do that to each wire say 1/2" apart I won't get shorting between wires and can use RTV to seal the open soldered wire.
THE ORPS sensor eventually PUSHES oil into its 3 PINK wires.
They are GROUND, 5V and info/centre.
If you replace loom ALSO replace ORPS sensor.
The YELLOW, BLACK, RED wires (SAME side, NEXT to each other at the engine plug are the ORPS wires.
Simply NICK/small split the insulation on the 3 PINK wires that mate with the yel,blk,red wires at engine plu.
These 3 pinks will eventually slowly leak oil but wont go into engine plug and beyond since there is now pressure relief at the splits.
Don't cover or seal, simply spray some chain lube on it and forget.
The other 7 wires are injector (5) and oil temp (2) and don't cause a problem.
Too easy :)
Both my red clips popped off, they're out there on the skid pan somewhere for me to find tomorrow, i thought i was careful both times!!! 🙄😂
Could oil in this connector affect oil pressure in any way? Just wondering if information between the ecu and engine is compromised by the oil conducting the voltage/signal between the pins?
HI, Do you have any information on the Oil Rail Pressure Switch you can share please?
donde consigo un ramal de ese modelo de motor isuzu 4jx1 y el modulo de la caja y motor plis
Hello... The situation is that I have an Isuzu Trooper 4jx1 year 2001 that when I turn the key on the engine turns over for about 15 seconds and the engine starts but after 30 seconds running the engine stops...I try again and with difficulty It starts again, manages to stay running for about 15 seconds and stops again... This happens faster and faster until the engine manages to stay running... After a few minutes it regulates perfectly and responds to the accelerator pedal without any problem ... From then on the vehicle will work and start perfectly without smoke and without any type of problem until tomorrow I try to start it again and everything will be as I told you again... The engine has 10w30 API oil and it was cleaned the RPCV completes... I hear an intermittent roar for about three seconds in the oil circuit to the rail... that is, between the high pressure pump and the pipe that enters the rail there is a hydraulic vibration that accompanies the roar... When the engine operates normally, this roar anomaly disappears... Please request guidance on where to investigate my failure... Greetings and Thanks from San Martin de los Andes Patagonia Argentina.II
### Things to Check First
1. **Bleed the Diesel Fuel System:**
- Use the hand priming pump on top of the fuel filter to remove any air from the diesel fuel filter.
- Ensure the 10mm bleed bolt is open to allow air to be purged while using the hand priming pump.
- Inspect/replace the fuel hoses between the diesel tank and the engine for cracks, particularly around the hose clamps, as these can allow air to enter the system.
2. Clean the Oil Rail Pressure Control Valve, located on the back of the high-pressure oil pump. Debris can cause the valve to become partially jammed in an open position, preventing the system from building up enough pressure to inject a sufficient amount of diesel for the engine to idle properly.
3. **Replace the Oil Rail Pressure Sensor:**
- The sensor is located on top of the engine, under the rocker cover, on the side of the High-Pressure Oil Rail.
- Over time, the Oil Rail Pressure Sensor can go out of calibration, causing the engine computer to not deliver enough fuel for the engine to idle or start properly.
4. **Check the Oil Pickup Pipes:**
- There are two oil pickup pipes in the oil sump. One supplies oil to the engine, and the other supplies oil to the high-pressure diesel oil injection pump.
- The O-ring inside the sump, where the oil pickup pipes bolt to the underside of the engine, can sometimes crack or leak, allowing air to be sucked in instead of oil.
- To replace this O-ring, the engine oil sump must be removed to gain access.
Good luck
@@donovabl Hello... first of all thank you very much for your time...
It is important to add that after all these symptoms and after a few minutes the vehicle works perfectly without any anomaly and without any smoke and another thing that I noticed is that when the truck is started for the first time, the accelerator responds and after about two minutes it starts to fail and to make its mistake, which makes me think that if after several attempts the engine works the same as new, which parts would be compromised.
informative
Could a new loom fix the problem
Yes but expensive, cleaning better option.
no,you'll have the same issues over time
I need ecu wiring diagram pinout 4jx1