Sometimes those things just get dusty, circuit cleaner spray can work wonders. If the wiper is bad it might be more worthwhile to replace the whole pot. Wish me luck, about to go pull mine out!
Got it man. Definitely works better. I took the dash out like you suggested, but just fyi its not necessary. I was able to take out the dimmer assembly the second time with a plastic interior pry bar. Thanks,Joe
You can pop the switch out without removing any of that stuff if you just stick a trim tool or something then down the left and the right side of it to pop the tabs.
Have it apart to the point you were at,but cant really distinguish what you are calling the swiper.I have the plastic roller knob and small shiny thin washer like cover off. There is a smaller looking washer like part on top with 2 ears at the base,then a tiny tab under that. Which do I push down? Thanks,Joe
Is the edometer light and climate control light linked? Both of mine stopped working. Any idea where to look? Fuse no 19 is still good. All other light related to fuse 19 still working. Parking light, hazard light, engine light still light up in my edometer. Please help. Thanks
I'm having the same issue with my EJ1, shit is mad annoying, but I can get it to stay on by wiggling it a couple of times. So you're telling me that I got to take out my cluster bezel just to take out my dimmer switch? I got sunroof, dimmer, and cruise control as well.
+bman409 you actually do not, this is sometimes needed, as in my case to keep from breaking old pieces. You can tell from the video the force required to get the switch bracket out, and if I were to have don this from the front instead of the back, there's no way that nothing would have broken. With the seal broken a bit, I actually replaced the switch a few weeks ago and did it with 90* needle nose to pull the bracket out. This is the safest way, if you are trying to not damage anything in my opinion
If the dimmer switch assembly can be pushed from behind, wouldn't it be a lot easier just to pry it out from the front without removing the gauge cover? Anyway, I have the EXACT same problem on the EXACT same car and year! I'm going to try prying it from the front first, and then if that doesn't work I'll remove the gauge cover. Thanks for the video! JW3HH
+JustWasted3HoursHere I actually have been able to remove mine from the front. The problem is only when it hasn't been removed before and the clips get stuck on the plastic. I just didn't want to risk damaging my bezel so I did it the safest way possible lol
Yeah, what I want to do is just bypass the whole dimmer switch if possible (I never needed to dim the dash anyway). Just for the heck of it, I went pricing a new replacement part for that. Would you believe they want between *$90 and $110* for that dumb dimmer module? Insane! Even used ones are $20 or so, but never like to buy used electrical parts like that. For now, believe it or not, I have a battery-powered miniature Christmas light set I can turn on when driving at night and it works surprisingly well (and only cost me $5!) Batteries last for months since I only have it on for about 20 minutes at a time at most. JW3HH
+JustWasted3HoursHere lol that's awesome! in my old Accord I had a similar set up. I am actually considering bypassing it too. I will make a video when I get around to it, bc with the 3 I've had fail I assume it's something most people would be interested in
So my issue was my dash lights wouldn't even come on. I did some diag (auto tech by trade) with looking at the diagram and just popped the cage out completely without even bothering with the dash bezel like you did. The solid RED and Black wires are basic 12v battery positive and ground respectively. Cut them from the connector then strip them and twist them together if you want to bypass the dimmer completely like I did. Dash lights will be on full brightness at all times.Hope this helps you. That third red wire with the stripe is the "signal wire" after power and ground have gone through the resistor.
You actually did not have to pull out the instrument cluster. Get a soft tool and pry out the switch from the front and it comes right out. Saves a lot of trouble and potential damage to the instrument cluster panel
Thank you! Help me out a lot without breaking my car.
Sometimes those things just get dusty, circuit cleaner spray can work wonders. If the wiper is bad it might be more worthwhile to replace the whole pot. Wish me luck, about to go pull mine out!
i have the same exact problem thank god this video came to me
Got it man.
Definitely works better.
I took the dash out like you suggested, but just fyi its not necessary.
I was able to take out the dimmer assembly the second time with a plastic interior pry bar.
Thanks,Joe
Definitely nut required, I took mine out because the switch was so stick in there lol
You can pop the switch out without removing any of that stuff if you just stick a trim tool or something then down the left and the right side of it to pop the tabs.
Definitely can, mine was just very stuck and I didn’t want to risk breaking it or marring the plastic
Have it apart to the point you were at,but cant really distinguish what you are calling the swiper.I have the plastic roller knob and small shiny thin washer like cover off.
There is a smaller looking washer like part on top with 2 ears at the base,then a tiny tab under that.
Which do I push down?
Thanks,Joe
Can you track the dimer wires and anchorage points and provide them to me?
Is the edometer light and climate control light linked? Both of mine stopped working. Any idea where to look? Fuse no 19 is still good. All other light related to fuse 19 still working. Parking light, hazard light, engine light still light up in my edometer. Please help. Thanks
hello i need to add bimmer to my car but how can add dimmer to hernass in my civic 1994
Hey bro, do you have a video for that A-pillar gauge install, ive been looking for a 1-pod and yours seems to fit dead nuts. What brand did you use?
+NAVYPorcAirmenAM I honestly have no clue on the brand, I just shoved it between the dash and pillar and screwed the top of it into the pillar.
I'm having the same issue with my EJ1, shit is mad annoying, but I can get it to stay on by wiggling it a couple of times.
So you're telling me that I got to take out my cluster bezel just to take out my dimmer switch? I got sunroof, dimmer, and cruise control as well.
+bman409 you actually do not, this is sometimes needed, as in my case to keep from breaking old pieces. You can tell from the video the force required to get the switch bracket out, and if I were to have don this from the front instead of the back, there's no way that nothing would have broken. With the seal broken a bit, I actually replaced the switch a few weeks ago and did it with 90* needle nose to pull the bracket out.
This is the safest way, if you are trying to not damage anything in my opinion
Buddy I have the same issue but I don't need range on the dimmer I just wanna leave it on max power it's posible to leave it lock?
I always planned on making a video on bypassing the potentiometer but just never got around to it /:
If the dimmer switch assembly can be pushed from behind, wouldn't it be a lot easier just to pry it out from the front without removing the gauge cover?
Anyway, I have the EXACT same problem on the EXACT same car and year! I'm going to try prying it from the front first, and then if that doesn't work I'll remove the gauge cover.
Thanks for the video!
JW3HH
+JustWasted3HoursHere I actually have been able to remove mine from the front. The problem is only when it hasn't been removed before and the clips get stuck on the plastic. I just didn't want to risk damaging my bezel so I did it the safest way possible lol
Yeah, what I want to do is just bypass the whole dimmer switch if possible (I never needed to dim the dash anyway). Just for the heck of it, I went pricing a new replacement part for that. Would you believe they want between *$90 and $110* for that dumb dimmer module? Insane! Even used ones are $20 or so, but never like to buy used electrical parts like that.
For now, believe it or not, I have a battery-powered miniature Christmas light set I can turn on when driving at night and it works surprisingly well (and only cost me $5!) Batteries last for months since I only have it on for about 20 minutes at a time at most.
JW3HH
+JustWasted3HoursHere lol that's awesome! in my old Accord I had a similar set up. I am actually considering bypassing it too. I will make a video when I get around to it, bc with the 3 I've had fail I assume it's something most people would be interested in
So my issue was my dash lights wouldn't even come on. I did some diag (auto tech by trade) with looking at the diagram and just popped the cage out completely without even bothering with the dash bezel like you did. The solid RED and Black wires are basic 12v battery positive and ground respectively. Cut them from the connector then strip them and twist them together if you want to bypass the dimmer completely like I did. Dash lights will be on full brightness at all times.Hope this helps you. That third red wire with the stripe is the "signal wire" after power and ground have gone through the resistor.
Mazda wants $70 for one on my mazda 3. Can't get it at any parts store.
You actually did not have to pull out the instrument cluster. Get a soft tool and pry out the switch from the front and it comes right out. Saves a lot of trouble and potential damage to the instrument cluster panel
Came here to say this, i was able to just pop the button covers off and pull it straight out of the dash
Too much work man lol
It is a bit unnecessary lol, it only worked for a little bit too lol