The contact brushes within the electric motor constantly create tiny sparks while it's running. Any flammable gasses going past that WILL ignite if the fuel/air ratio is sufficient to do so. A shop vac with an inch or so of gasoline in it would absolutely be ripe for Ka-BOOM!
Yes he is correct as to crud , rust , water or any debris needs to be removed from your fuel tank and several other tanks . Definitely Do Not just use a shop vac or wet/dry vacuum !!! I know someone who did and blew up his dad's garage !!! Most people don't have such a system that is shown in this video . But there is a much cheaper an average person can clean out a fuel tank or whatever tank safely . I've done this for a few decades without ever a problem . First , with a cheap hand pump , remove all the fuel into a container . Then flood the tank with water and remember that fuel is lighter and floats on water so let it flush out the opening . Then use a little dish soap and flush it with water and let it flush out the opening of the tank . If it's a rusty metal tank , pressure wash it out to remove as much rust as you possibly can . Then dump or drain all the water . Then after doing all of these steps , go ahead and use a shop or wet/dry vacuum and allow all the water to drip down on the inside of the tank and vacuum it again . Then it's all set unless you want to reseal the rusty tank as you can buy the tank sealer at the auto parts store . I have done this on cars , motorcycles , trucks , equipment , heavy equipment , gas , diesel , hydraulic , oil and all kinds of tanks with the greatest positive results !!! Then recycle all fluids properly !!!
At work the fluid extractor, we just leave it connected to a air hose and those container's we usually get those when we order ozzy juice for are parts washer
Mythbusters already tested the Shop Van with Gasoline. They could not make it catch fire no mater what they did. It works great just connect a small clear hose to it then use a piece of like Pex Tubing, The air coming out of the shop can does not go thru the motor. Just don't do it inside and use a long enough tubing to keep it away from your work area. Works great.
Most shop vacs have universal motors which have brushes that spark almost constantly. They also pass the exhaust air through the motor to cool it. So what would happen is that you would fill the vac tank with a mist of gasoline in air, then blow it past a more or less continuous spark. Now I want to see @theslowmoguys do this!
Bad @$$ my friend. Actually never gave it a thought to clean the tank on a fuel pump change. That is some nasty crap coming out of that tank. Great video. Will definitely get me a sucker contraption for the next fuel pump change. Awesome. Keepem comin.
Okay you asked a question and gave us the answer, how about another question? Brian said yes. Okay where do you dispose of your used anti freeze? I meant to ask you that on your free Willie video. No no I mean on your free up your heater core video. That's it four4 me. Happy Motoring. Oh and thanks Vince.
If you bend a piece of wire and hang it between the funnel and container it can bleed air so you can pour as fast as you want w/o the funnel filling up. but im sure you knew that
@@briansmobile1 Changing oil on a boat engine often involves vacuum suction of warm oil out the dipstick hole, and sometimes is done with no access to shore power. Because boats require a low center of gravity, the engine is always mounted at the very bottom. There is no room for a pan drain, most don't even have an oil drain plug. I did do a video of a diesel boat oil change, though I doubt most of your viewers would find it useful. It's always nice to see another one of your videos Brian!
I am about to buy a 30 dollar plastic ‘spa vacuum’ that filters in real time and returns the clean fuel as you hand pump it through. I know the gas will ruin it and plan to toss after. You think that will be Ok?
Why not just go to the local pick and pull, find an electric fuel pump "preferably" off a diesel engine, make a simple 12 volt electric connect, attach in and out fuel lines and wooola. 12v hobby or motorcycle battery will last much longer than air. and will not cost much more than 15 - $25 depending on how fancy you get with your recovery bucket and switch set up.
Hi Brian, I need some ideas from you. Have an old Highlander, did an oil change and 2000 miles later the oil still looks like I added it yesterday. I don't have an oil pressure light on but I don't know why it isn't looking dark and dirty. Any ideas on what to check?
Probably just the engine is clean inside.. not a bad thing! If it wasn't circulating or something.. the engine would be knocking and blew up by now..just means your engine is likely been taken care of..
![Cleaning the INSIDE of a Diesel Fuel Tank on a Backhoe [Dynahoe 160 Part 8]](/img/n.gif)
Hello. Your instructions are very good and detailed. I'm also a car mechanic. I live in Vietnam. We look forward to learning from you
The contact brushes within the electric motor constantly create tiny sparks while it's running. Any flammable gasses going past that WILL ignite if the fuel/air ratio is sufficient to do so. A shop vac with an inch or so of gasoline in it would absolutely be ripe for Ka-BOOM!
Be cool to do a video of it!
@@briansmobile1 now this I gotta see!
Yes he is correct as to crud , rust , water or any debris needs to be removed from your fuel tank and several other tanks . Definitely Do Not just use a shop vac or wet/dry vacuum !!! I know someone who did and blew up his dad's garage !!! Most people don't have such a system that is shown in this video . But there is a much cheaper an average person can clean out a fuel tank or whatever tank safely . I've done this for a few decades without ever a problem . First , with a cheap hand pump , remove all the fuel into a container . Then flood the tank with water and remember that fuel is lighter and floats on water so let it flush out the opening . Then use a little dish soap and flush it with water and let it flush out the opening of the tank . If it's a rusty metal tank , pressure wash it out to remove as much rust as you possibly can . Then dump or drain all the water . Then after doing all of these steps , go ahead and use a shop or wet/dry vacuum and allow all the water to drip down on the inside of the tank and vacuum it again . Then it's all set unless you want to reseal the rusty tank as you can buy the tank sealer at the auto parts store . I have done this on cars , motorcycles , trucks , equipment , heavy equipment , gas , diesel , hydraulic , oil and all kinds of tanks with the greatest positive results !!! Then recycle all fluids properly !!!
At work the fluid extractor, we just leave it connected to a air hose and those container's we usually get those when we order ozzy juice for are parts washer
Mythbusters already tested the Shop Van with Gasoline. They could not make it catch fire no mater what they did. It works great just connect a small clear hose to it then use a piece of like Pex Tubing, The air coming out of the shop can does not go thru the motor. Just don't do it inside and use a long enough tubing to keep it away from your work area. Works great.
Really because I can’t afford one of these . And was going to do that until . He said not a good idea
Most shop vacs have universal motors which have brushes that spark almost constantly. They also pass the exhaust air through the motor to cool it. So what would happen is that you would fill the vac tank with a mist of gasoline in air, then blow it past a more or less continuous spark.
Now I want to see @theslowmoguys do this!
great video brian. thank you for showing us this product i didn't know this kind of thing was out there.
Welcome!
Bad @$$ my friend. Actually never gave it a thought to clean the tank on a fuel pump change. That is some nasty crap coming out of that tank. Great video. Will definitely get me a sucker contraption for the next fuel pump change. Awesome. Keepem comin.
Finally got to see the man behind the voice. 😀
Gay?
The Gripping Hand! Immediate like! The Mote In God’s Eye is such a great book!
Okay you asked a question and gave us the answer, how about another question? Brian said yes.
Okay where do you dispose of your used anti freeze? I meant to ask you that on your free Willie video.
No no I mean on your free up your heater core video.
That's it four4 me. Happy Motoring. Oh and thanks Vince.
The local Napa auto parts stores accept it here.
I'll have to check that out. Thanks.
Great idea. Also, Top Sider makes a cheaper version of what you are using.
Oil extractors are nice I have one with the pan on top for oil changes works in the same concept
On new vehicles the rpm surging could also be a problem with fuel injectors being clogged could also be fuel pump and or clogged fuel lines as well
So use an Oil Extraction machine for like Mercedes oil changes :P Rock on!
thanks for that idea, I have a little harbor freight suction pump that I used on a friends mercedes, ha, I am sure it will work on the vw bus...
Is it true if you keep the fuel level above half in a vehicle it avoids sediments and pump failure?
It can help. Rust typically happens most on the tank where it's exposed to air.
That's a handy thing to have.
Yeah those shop vac motors spark when they run. So don't use them around anything like gas or you may roast your weiny.
Great video. Not sure why you don't just hook it up to a vacuum pump? Venturi effect isn't going to create much of a vacuum. Thanks!
That's just how it's designed. Works fine.
You can actually reverse the shop vac and pump the air out through the fill-up tube, just take off the bulb.
If you bend a piece of wire and hang it between the funnel and container it can bleed air so you can pour as fast as you want w/o the funnel filling up. but im sure you knew that
Another handy tool to have. 👍
outstanding video. thank you
Great video Brian nice trick
Surprising how often one finds use for a vacuum extractor. Mine is smaller and plastic, with the option for hand pumping or compressed air.
Those ARE nice to have- no compressor needed. Do you have a video of yours in action? Can you do it one handed?
@@briansmobile1 Changing oil on a boat engine often involves vacuum suction of warm oil out the dipstick hole, and sometimes is done with no access to shore power. Because boats require a low center of gravity, the engine is always mounted at the very bottom. There is no room for a pan drain, most don't even have an oil drain plug. I did do a video of a diesel boat oil change, though I doubt most of your viewers would find it useful. It's always nice to see another one of your videos Brian!
I am about to buy a 30 dollar plastic ‘spa vacuum’ that filters in real time and returns the clean fuel as you hand pump it through. I know the gas will ruin it and plan to toss after. You think that will be Ok?
I'm no spa vacuum expert. I know shop vacs say don't vacuum fuel or it could ruin your day and your hair.
Awesome tool.
Thanks Mo!
What is the name of the sucking device tank and adapters?
Why not just go to the local pick and pull, find an electric fuel pump "preferably" off a diesel engine, make a simple 12 volt electric connect, attach in and out fuel lines and wooola. 12v hobby or motorcycle battery will last much longer than air. and will not cost much more than 15 - $25 depending on how fancy you get with your recovery bucket and switch set up.
You can get the hoses in vinyl and nylon
Hi Brian, I need some ideas from you. Have an old Highlander, did an oil change and 2000 miles later the oil still looks like I added it yesterday. I don't have an oil pressure light on but I don't know why it isn't looking dark and dirty.
Any ideas on what to check?
Probably just the engine is clean inside.. not a bad thing! If it wasn't circulating or something.. the engine would be knocking and blew up by now..just means your engine is likely been taken care of..
Oh, it ks like a Wacker 880..?
Could you use a fluid evacuator with a hand pump? Just keep pumping. I can't afford one like yours.
Check HF tools.
They use the same containers at my work for soap
That tank is 250 dollars, well that does suck ! LOL. Working on the old vw bus...gas tank
great tool
Usually "That Sucks" signifies something bad... But not in this case.
Play on words.
That still did not tell how you got that massive amount of rust out of that gas tank.
Fortunately the tank is easily removable. Best drain it, remove it, tumble it with small abrasives, then fiberglass the inside.
cool
Workshop tips from Fidel Castro. I've seen it all now.
✋😔
omeg
Trump 2020
Oh yeah I got that in my back pocket