very thorough and very kick ass...im 52 yrs old and i jus got my first onewheel and I havent had this much fun since snowboarding in the 90's...thx for the well made video!!!
It always cracks me up when people find out that doing real work, requires actual work, concentration, and know how. I so appreciate the time that is spent from folks like 1WheelParts that share the knowledge, so that we can get it right. I personally question the need to epoxy the sensors. I'm not sure how you could screw them up w water as they are already in-cased in their own plastic. Please correct me if i'm wrong here. Thanks for this detailed video. aoxomoxoa
As someone who has always been lazy af but had friends with mechanical ability, you are correct. It sometimes shakes me in my boots how much work replacing a part or protecting something can be, but at least with these kind of videos I can learn how to at least have a basic understanding and go for it
Hey Dean, thanks for the kind words! Our goal is to try and convey how to work on your boards in the simplest terms. As for the epoxy for the front question, we have found alot of trail riders chip and dent their front footpads which causes the plastic layers on the sensor to come apart and allow water/dirt to get in between them.
@@1wheelparts920 I've seen the separation issue for sure. At that point i fix it, but i guess preventively it makes sense to harden that area. I've been making my own front foot pads from Kush Lo's and Chineseum seat belt sensors. I just slap 'em on after removing the grip tape(can't buy them w/o grip tape sadly)then put the new grip tape on. Biggest problem is an occasional mount of shame, but no more than normal, usually in front of people or at intersections~!~ Again, love our community. XR's rule~!~
Just go for it. I was apprehensive, intimidated to tear open my board and do this. I had to replace my batter and figured it was gonna be open anyway, might as well waterproof it as well. I rolled this video and feel really good about it. Cool to see where everything connects and such. I have a lot confidence in its waterproof ability now. Not deliberately sending through deep water by any means but i LOVE riding on the beach and now have full confidence to give it a decent fresh water hose rinse afterward. If your a little sketched out, do it. It wast difficult. Label your screws! So many different sizes.
Great video. I found my foodpad cord got moisture in the existing silicone on the footpad side and it corroded the connection deep down inside the underside chiseled portion of the pad. This was impossible to repair with a solder because it was where the wires meet the circuit board connections. This happened after about 5000kms and I live in a wet environment. I ended up buying new footpads from FM ($200 US). Keep in mind the footpads are made of wood and the original seals can rot if kept wet. 👍👍
you would just rip it back open but would have to go thru the entire process again to re waterproof it. I personally never have to go into my battery so for a lot of people thats not an issue.
Could I follow the same procedure for a pint x? I am planning on waterproofing the pint x after a yr once the warranty has worn off (hopefully by then something will come out to water proof pintx). If anyone has any tips for waterproofing the pintx I would very much appreciate it. BTW great video! very in depth. I will appreciate this a lot when I take this project hands on.
Isn't there more effectiveness by undoing screws on battery and control box and adding silicone to the gasket 'sandwich' before tightening it all back down? Same with cable connector?
What about the motor inside the wheel? I've seen some photos of rusted out motors. I don't think the motor is water proof. Do you guys have a waterproofing kit for that?
Correct. The motor is NOT waterproof. It is however very water resistant. It is possible for water to seep in through the side of the motor with the seven bolts and white O logo if riding through water 3-4 inches deep frequently. You could go ahead and put a bead of silicone around that crease and bolts for extra resistance. We will be putting out a video on that in the near future.
How easy is it to open the battery/control box after you have waterproof it? would you need to clean all the silicon around the edges to re-waterproof it again?
you'd have to waterproof it as you'd be breaking the seal, i wanted to hang off until i upgraded my battery but i'm never riding more than just a few miles at time so i just waterproofed with OEM battery (mine is about 2 years, i've been taking care of the battery so i still get about 12-14miles per charge).
just decided to buy this but is not available, so i bought it from TFL but i feel like this kit is better as it comes with syringes and all unlike the one i just got.
I was on board with this until they started ( 9:20 ) putting silicone into the connections... If water DOES get into that, your main concern is the water making a connection between pins, not seeping into the controller. If pins are connected accidentally by moisture, you will incorrect data transfer, shorts, and corrosion... you really dont want water to even get inside the plugs in the first place...
To do this properly, you need to source IP68 certified connectors. This is a huge turn off for potential one wheel buyers. Why don’t they just design these from the ground up for all weather?
@@KosteaBV I have my board apart for a battery swap and was considering badgering my board. My roomate is a mechanic and mentioned dielectric grease on all the connectors last night before I even said anything about badgering the board. Would you recommend skipping the silicone all together and just going with the grease for the connectors? Thanks for any input! ✌️
@@iankutney6109 i would do it as an extra safety step in addition to the waterproofing process explained in the video. Dielectric grease protects from pins/connectors oxidation, not so much from water ingress
so if I epoxy my footpad sensor, is that going to cause issues if I decide to change grip tape down the road. Not sure what that whole assembly looks like.
From the factory the axle of the board is sealed with a type of silicone where the wire comes out of the motor. I personally wouldn't trust this seal to work if the board were to become completely submerged in water, same for the hub bolts that keep the motor together. This is usually not a concern for riding in rain and through water less than 3 inches deep. If your board does become fully submerged in water for whatever reason though, I would not be surprised if water got into the motor. We will be putting out a more advanced waterproof guide in the future going over these concers.
2 nights after dinner for me, im letting things dry in proper orientation and I'll check things over & maybe fill in small gaps tomorrow, then more drying time. I switched over to syringe instead of tube, i found it way easier to be precise that way
He doesn't mention the power button area i don't think... I think it would make sense to run a thin bead around the outer edge? I'm going to run a button cover too. And stay out of deep puddles. I'm doing this so I won't have to worry about wet pavement or low tide beach rides 🤙
Hey Carl, thanks for letting us know! Our kit does come with a power button cover, we jus forgot to mention it in the video. We do have an updated waterproofing video coming out in the next few months, thank you for the feedback!
@@1wheelparts920 thanks, this video was really helpful. One other question I had was the round and the square 6-pin plugs from the motor, I don't think Austin covered that area but i did those two like the battery plug. Thanks again, can't wait to hit the beach!
Too right Ken - this does not completely waterproof your wheel and all the real damage happens in the motor when you dunk it. There needs to be a new motor cap design that utilized two o-rings. IMHO.
@@onewheelservices9753 I was thinking if you put a thicker grease on the out side of the bearings it might almost seal the bearings, at least keep fair amount of liquid out where the gaps in the bearing are?
Only if you are applying a positive air pressure to the chamber. As shown on this video, they are pulling a slight vacuum to test for leaks. If you put soapy water with a vacuum, any leaks will pull the soapy water into your chamber.
If your headlight ever goes out like mine did you'll end up wanting to do this anyways since you'll have to pull apart the board controller to fix that plug
Need to use proper marine silicone. Standard silicone will shrink and crack over time( plumber here, trust me ) Title should be: how to make a fucking mess with silicone, did you seriously epoxy your sensor and grip tape down? Jesus what the fuck? Have fun changing grip tape.
Water resistant. Some are sealed up better than others, and some boards get bricked by getting caught in the rain for a minute. Onewheels aren't cheap, better safe than sorry.
@@matthewwarren1266 very succint, very right...put a little time into your shit since you put a lil bit of money in it! BTW what is bricked? is that knackered? cheers
very thorough and very kick ass...im 52 yrs old and i jus got my first onewheel and I havent had this much fun since snowboarding in the 90's...thx for the well made video!!!
It always cracks me up when people find out that doing real work, requires actual work, concentration, and know how. I so appreciate the time that is spent from folks like 1WheelParts that share the knowledge, so that we can get it right. I personally question the need to epoxy the sensors. I'm not sure how you could screw them up w water as they are already in-cased in their own plastic. Please correct me if i'm wrong here. Thanks for this detailed video. aoxomoxoa
As someone who has always been lazy af but had friends with mechanical ability, you are correct. It sometimes shakes me in my boots how much work replacing a part or protecting something can be, but at least with these kind of videos I can learn how to at least have a basic understanding and go for it
Hey Dean, thanks for the kind words! Our goal is to try and convey how to work on your boards in the simplest terms. As for the epoxy for the front question, we have found alot of trail riders chip and dent their front footpads which causes the plastic layers on the sensor to come apart and allow water/dirt to get in between them.
@@1wheelparts920 I've seen the separation issue for sure. At that point i fix it, but i guess preventively it makes sense to harden that area. I've been making my own front foot pads from Kush Lo's and Chineseum seat belt sensors. I just slap 'em on after removing the grip tape(can't buy them w/o grip tape sadly)then put the new grip tape on. Biggest problem is an occasional mount of shame, but no more than normal, usually in front of people or at intersections~!~ Again, love our community. XR's rule~!~
Just go for it. I was apprehensive, intimidated to tear open my board and do this. I had to replace my batter and figured it was gonna be open anyway, might as well waterproof it as well. I rolled this video and feel really good about it. Cool to see where everything connects and such. I have a lot confidence in its waterproof ability now. Not deliberately sending through deep water by any means but i LOVE riding on the beach and now have full confidence to give it a decent fresh water hose rinse afterward. If your a little sketched out, do it. It wast difficult. Label your screws! So many different sizes.
@nickmoses7770 what is the difference between the liquid silicone you use and the other type of silicone you used at the start of the video?
Great video. I found my foodpad cord got moisture in the existing silicone on the footpad side and it corroded the connection deep down inside the underside chiseled portion of the pad. This was impossible to repair with a solder because it was where the wires meet the circuit board connections. This happened after about 5000kms and I live in a wet environment. I ended up buying new footpads from FM ($200 US). Keep in mind the footpads are made of wood and the original seals can rot if kept wet. 👍👍
Primed on that Pint video - great info and tutorial, thanks!
Is it really necessary to put the liquid silicone in the ports?
Would liquid conformal coating work the same as the liquid silicone for the inside of the plugs?
21:00 I'm curious why not just wait for the silicone to cure a bit before reinserting? (Sorry if you covered this and I just missed it)
Awesome vid, Austin. Super helpful and did an outstanding job explaining everything to a tee. Love 1WheelParts!
Appreciate it Jeff👊
After waterproofing is done, what if you need to get back into your battery box or controller box? Is this meant to be a no going back kind of thing?
you would just rip it back open but would have to go thru the entire process again to re waterproof it. I personally never have to go into my battery so for a lot of people thats not an issue.
Could I follow the same procedure for a pint x? I am planning on waterproofing the pint x after a yr once the warranty has worn off (hopefully by then something will come out to water proof pintx). If anyone has any tips for waterproofing the pintx I would very much appreciate it. BTW great video! very in depth. I will appreciate this a lot when I take this project hands on.
Hey Plasma, We are in the works on getting a pint waterproofing video out there for you guys! it should be out by then!
Definitely needed. 👍🏾👍🏾
drink every time he says go ahead
🍻
Fucking lol 😂😂
What happened to the pint video that was supposed to be coming soon?
I am looking for the pint video, is it out yet??
could you use silicone instead of epoxy on the footpad ?
Isn't there more effectiveness by undoing screws on battery and control box and adding silicone to the gasket 'sandwich' before tightening it all back down? Same with cable connector?
its overkill and when you go back in your controller box its going to be a mess. We found doing the outside to be enough
@@1wheelparts920 thanks! I figured y'all would have seen the pros and cons of both methods along the way...
Damn new kit badger wheel sent me didn’t have the epoxy for the foot pads
What about the motor inside the wheel? I've seen some photos of rusted out motors. I don't think the motor is water proof. Do you guys have a waterproofing kit for that?
Correct. The motor is NOT waterproof. It is however very water resistant. It is possible for water to seep in through the side of the motor with the seven bolts and white O logo if riding through water 3-4 inches deep frequently. You could go ahead and put a bead of silicone around that crease and bolts for extra resistance. We will be putting out a video on that in the near future.
The center axle is the motors heat sink, so you cannot seal it, the bolts have a rubber gasket under so fairly sealed.
It is because they rode it through salt water
How easy is it to open the battery/control box after you have waterproof it? would you need to clean all the silicon around the edges to re-waterproof it again?
you'd have to waterproof it as you'd be breaking the seal, i wanted to hang off until i upgraded my battery but i'm never riding more than just a few miles at time so i just waterproofed with OEM battery (mine is about 2 years, i've been taking care of the battery so i still get about 12-14miles per charge).
Please make this video for the Pint 🙏
just decided to buy this but is not available, so i bought it from TFL but i feel like this kit is better as it comes with syringes and all unlike the one i just got.
thank you for the feedback! We appreciate your support !
Is there anywhere near Eugene Oregon I can pay to have this done to my board??
There is a guy in Eugene that installs these. Do a search in the Facebook Eugene group.
Are you guys going to still make the Pint video?
I was on board with this until they started ( 9:20 ) putting silicone into the connections... If water DOES get into that, your main concern is the water making a connection between pins, not seeping into the controller. If pins are connected accidentally by moisture, you will incorrect data transfer, shorts, and corrosion... you really dont want water to even get inside the plugs in the first place...
To do this properly, you need to source IP68 certified connectors. This is a huge turn off for potential one wheel buyers. Why don’t they just design these from the ground up for all weather?
I would put dielectric grease inside all the connectors, this will do the trick and not let the moisture short the pins and corrode them.
@@Okwatwasthat199 Boggles my mind they don't make OW at least have a decent IP rating
@@KosteaBV I have my board apart for a battery swap and was considering badgering my board. My roomate is a mechanic and mentioned dielectric grease on all the connectors last night before I even said anything about badgering the board. Would you recommend skipping the silicone all together and just going with the grease for the connectors? Thanks for any input! ✌️
@@iankutney6109 i would do it as an extra safety step in addition to the waterproofing process explained in the video.
Dielectric grease protects from pins/connectors oxidation, not so much from water ingress
I did the same for pint it was even easier. Jo only need silicon window sealer and good to go
How long can you expect the waterproofing to last?
if done well, forever.
Realistically, until you have to replace the part.
great video but does this void warranty?
Most definitely
so if I epoxy my footpad sensor, is that going to cause issues if I decide to change grip tape down the road. Not sure what that whole assembly looks like.
epoxy is not silicon... don't set yourself up for failure.
Pint video?
waterproofing the hub axle?
From the factory the axle of the board is sealed with a type of silicone where the wire comes out of the motor. I personally wouldn't trust this seal to work if the board were to become completely submerged in water, same for the hub bolts that keep the motor together. This is usually not a concern for riding in rain and through water less than 3 inches deep. If your board does become fully submerged in water for whatever reason though, I would not be surprised if water got into the motor. We will be putting out a more advanced waterproof guide in the future going over these concers.
Hub axle is the heat sink for the motor, seal that axle = overheated motor = dead one wheel
How long does this process take?
2 nights after dinner for me, im letting things dry in proper orientation and I'll check things over & maybe fill in small gaps tomorrow, then more drying time. I switched over to syringe instead of tube, i found it way easier to be precise that way
get those onewheel xr kits in stock!!! i want one
He doesn't mention the power button area i don't think... I think it would make sense to run a thin bead around the outer edge? I'm going to run a button cover too. And stay out of deep puddles. I'm doing this so I won't have to worry about wet pavement or low tide beach rides 🤙
Hey Carl, thanks for letting us know! Our kit does come with a power button cover, we jus forgot to mention it in the video. We do have an updated waterproofing video coming out in the next few months, thank you for the feedback!
@@1wheelparts920 thanks, this video was really helpful. One other question I had was the round and the square 6-pin plugs from the motor, I don't think Austin covered that area but i did those two like the battery plug. Thanks again, can't wait to hit the beach!
@@1wheelparts920 did it ever came out? 👀
The water gets into the bearings and into the wheel😶
Too right Ken - this does not completely waterproof your wheel and all the real damage happens in the motor when you dunk it. There needs to be a new motor cap design that utilized two o-rings. IMHO.
Get bearing covers. They won't solve that problem but they'll minimize it
@@onewheelservices9753 I was thinking if you put a thicker grease on the out side of the bearings it might almost seal the bearings, at least keep fair amount of liquid out where the gaps in the bearing are?
Soapy water is also great for finding leaks
Only if you are applying a positive air pressure to the chamber. As shown on this video, they are pulling a slight vacuum to test for leaks. If you put soapy water with a vacuum, any leaks will pull the soapy water into your chamber.
What Mark said is correct! DO NOT USE SOAPY WATER.
that moment you need to open up your controller box and realise you have stuffed EVERY screw hole
We re-open them all the time. A screw driver or allen wrench will easily cut through the silicone.
Liquid zip tape flashing
Damn this is to much work. Hard to watch all of this. Im just gonna make sure and not ride mine in the pool. Good effort though
If your headlight ever goes out like mine did you'll end up wanting to do this anyways since you'll have to pull apart the board controller to fix that plug
Need to use proper marine silicone. Standard silicone will shrink and crack over time( plumber here, trust me ) Title should be: how to make a fucking mess with silicone, did you seriously epoxy your sensor and grip tape down? Jesus what the fuck? Have fun changing grip tape.
No thanks, I’ll just stay out of 💦 😅
Nah.....thanks tho
Dude they come from the factory waterproof! All of the components Onewheel specifically states are waterproof!
Water resistant. Some are sealed up better than others, and some boards get bricked by getting caught in the rain for a minute. Onewheels aren't cheap, better safe than sorry.
@@matthewwarren1266 very succint, very right...put a little time into your shit since you put a lil bit of money in it! BTW what is bricked? is that knackered? cheers