I'm 41 years old and I'm disabled so I started looking at making doors for my house and I am just learning how. I figure I can't afford to buy them so I should learn to make them for myself. I really like how detailed your instructions are and that you talk slowly so that I can understand what your saying very clearly. Thank you for the great video!
By watching this I believe I figured out what my issue was with cutting my tongues. I was flushing the bit teeth up with the top of the board instead of focusing on the bottom. So I was left with a .008 thick piece of the board along the bottom of the board. But if I had done it right I believe the bit would’ve worked fine. Thanks again for an amazing video Colin. You’re such an incredibly helpful man.
Colin ... I just got the same set of router bits and started practicing on scrap. I started with the grooves 1st, like the majority of advice says to do. I come to the conclusion that your method of starting with the tongue is the better way for making everything even. Thanks
Hi Colin! I’ve been enjoying your videos for years and finally got around to subscribing today. I consider myself an intermediate amateur, and I’m enjoying woodworking in my retirement. Having been a technology trainer myself for 30 years before retiring four years ago, I have to tell you that I really appreciate your style and thoroughness in your explanations. As an add to this video, I wanted to mention a tip from something that I picked up a few years ago, and it’s quite simple where tongue and groove or rail and style bits are concerned. Let’s say that the tongue of your tongue cutter (or rail/cope cutter) is 7/16” long, which you and I have. Then you simply need to cut all of your rails and stiles to a width of 2-7/16”. As you said, you then cut your stiles to length by using the desired height of the finished door. You will cut your rails to length by always taking your desired door width and then subtracting 4” from that. Thus, if you want a 13-1/2” wide finished door, simply take 13-1/2” and subtract 4”, and you will cut your rails to a length of 9-1/2”. If you always cut your rails and stiles 2-7/16” wide, your magic number is always 4”. If the tongues on your tongue cutter are 1/2” long, then always cut the rails and stiles to a width of 2-1/2”. The “magic number” will still be 4”, an easy calculation!
Hiya Colin . Though I’d let you know , I have learnt so much from you . As a disabled dude with mobility problems you have proved to me , it’s not that hard to make stuff . The only thing holding me back ... is me ...
i watched alot of videos on here about making the rail and stile doors but i think yours is the best,,have done made about 4 doors with 2 more to go,,,,looks good and thank you so much,,
The video was excellent. It was just to much for me to understand right now. I get the gist but I’m not at the point where I completely get it. I’m at the very beginning of understanding how to work my tools but I’ll come back to this video when I’m ready cause I’m interested in learning how to make cabinet doors for my house. Great video!
Thanks, I have in mind to do a bunch of cabinet doors and drawer fronts and have been hesitant about what joinery method to use. The few little techniques you showed here for measuring and dialing the setup will give me more confidence to get started.
Great tips Colin. Routing is my weakest thing right because it seems harder for me to line my bits up right but I keep on practicing and I know I will feel more secure in time. Especially with all the good tips and tricks you teach me how to do.
I admire your video skills on your wood tips etc. On the shaker doors using panel bits. I really like to use 3/8 panels for the inserts. Is there a way to use the panel bits in that application. Right now i use dowels and a dado 3/8 bit and leave a 1/8 as the backside reveal so I get the 1/4 inch shaker look on the front with 3/4 stock
Hi Colin. I love your videos. You are a master woodworker & appreciate all the amazing contents you provide on your channel. How many passes/door would you say one can make before the bits get dull?
That Freud table is nice Colin, but you need to buy a Canadian made Jess Em adjustable router lift, cut your time in half changing and adjusting bit height not to mention your supporting Canadian made product.
Thank you very much for your video I am learning with your videos but you didn't mention which Bits are needed i tried to enter your shop but i'm confused which one to buy can you help me with this thanks regards Please thank you
The way I do the stile lengths requires no math and works for any width rail, I cut and groove the rails put them back to back and use the distance from the bottom of the groove to automatically subtract the right amount. It won't work as great if your tenon is much smaller than the groove.
Good video. Great idea with the blue tape and on testing the height of the groove cutting bit. I have a set of tongue and groove bits and I don't like that the groove is too wide for 1/4 plywood. Maybe there are better sets of bits out there than the one I have? The last set of doors I made I used a table saw and had a better outcome. But some of this has to do with my router appears to move slightly up and down while in its base in the router table. I have a Porter Cable router and used some Yonico bits.
I couldn’t figure out why every other tutorial said cut the grooves first. Seems logical to cut the tongue first to line up the groove. This is how I’m going to do mine from now on. Setting up the tongue after the groove is so difficult to line up
I like your push grips with sticky mesh on! I'll be definitely doing that! With the end grain work for the tenons would you say that it is better to have a sliding table or table it is no better either way?
hi there, can i ask you something, if you were to make a larder cupboard (oak stiles and rails of 3/4 inch X 2 3/4 inch long) would you thing the tongue of 7/8 like here is long enough? because of the extra strain etc on the joints. or would you go a little bigger ?
I routed all my grooves first, only once I went to fit one up did i realize that my grooves were not 100% square to the work piece. Probably an issue with how my router is mounted or how it locks down. It's not really an issue for edge profiling but when it comes to joinery it can be a real issue. I'm not sure how to fix it, either. I need to be able to reference the angle of the shank relative to the table surface and make sure it's square, I guess. May need to use shims of some sort between the router and the table.
I just made my first pair of these doors using my dado blade set on one table saw and a regular blade on the other. Both are jobsite grade tablesaws and i had to really wrestle to get the one with the dados flat. Turnes out the stock insert is bent. I made a zero clearance insert but it didnt fit super tight so i had to be careful on startup of the saw. It wanted to fly out. Anyway.. im gonna try your tip on.making the tongues first to see if it helps me dial things in faster. I spent a bit of time matching them up at first. Thanks...
I am planning to put glass in my shaker doors. Any tips for that? I figure it can fit in the groove like any panel. If it ever breaks I can cut out the back of each groove to fit a new piece in, and hold that in place with hardwood strips. A panel is thicker than a glass pane though.. so maybe I should cut the back of the grooves out and install the glass with wood strips at the start. Let me know what you would do. I will report back after experimenting.
I'm 41 years old and I'm disabled so I started looking at making doors for my house and I am just learning how. I figure I can't afford to buy them so I should learn to make them for myself. I really like how detailed your instructions are and that you talk slowly so that I can understand what your saying very clearly. Thank you for the great video!
You're as good as always. What I admire about you is how patiently you explain step-by-step mentioning all necessary details to get perfect job.
Just wanted to say Colin , you are one of the better teachers out there on woodworking. Love your style and candor:)
You have the gift of being able to teach. Thank you
By watching this I believe I figured out what my issue was with cutting my tongues. I was flushing the bit teeth up with the top of the board instead of focusing on the bottom. So I was left with a .008 thick piece of the board along the bottom of the board. But if I had done it right I believe the bit would’ve worked fine. Thanks again for an amazing video Colin. You’re such an incredibly helpful man.
You My Sir, describes how to gather the measurement for Rails the MOST EASIEST WAY ON UA-cam!!!!!
THANK YOU SO VERY KINDLY!
Goode (Houston, Texas)
collin i have done this a few times and everytime i come back to this video,,,it has helped me so much,,you are a great teacher,,
Colin ... I just got the same set of router bits and started practicing on scrap. I started with the grooves 1st, like the majority of advice says to do. I come to the conclusion that your method of starting with the tongue is the better way for making everything even. Thanks
Hi Colin! I’ve been enjoying your videos for years and finally got around to subscribing today. I consider myself an intermediate amateur, and I’m enjoying woodworking in my retirement. Having been a technology trainer myself for 30 years before retiring four years ago, I have to tell you that I really appreciate your style and thoroughness in your explanations.
As an add to this video, I wanted to mention a tip from something that I picked up a few years ago, and it’s quite simple where tongue and groove or rail and style bits are concerned. Let’s say that the tongue of your tongue cutter (or rail/cope cutter) is 7/16” long, which you and I have. Then you simply need to cut all of your rails and stiles to a width of 2-7/16”. As you said, you then cut your stiles to length by using the desired height of the finished door. You will cut your rails to length by always taking your desired door width and then subtracting 4” from that. Thus, if you want a 13-1/2” wide finished door, simply take 13-1/2” and subtract 4”, and you will cut your rails to a length of 9-1/2”. If you always cut your rails and stiles 2-7/16” wide, your magic number is always 4”. If the tongues on your tongue cutter are 1/2” long, then always cut the rails and stiles to a width of 2-1/2”. The “magic number” will still be 4”, an easy calculation!
Hiya Colin . Though I’d let you know , I have learnt so much from you . As a disabled dude with mobility problems you have proved to me , it’s not that hard to make stuff . The only thing holding me back ... is me ...
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
No lie. You just need to be a real live boy. You can do anything you try.
Good video, I am soon to be building 29 doors to remodel the kitchen and this really helped. Thanks
i watched alot of videos on here about making the rail and stile doors but i think yours is the best,,have done made about 4 doors with 2 more to go,,,,looks good and thank you so much,,
You are amazing and have such a talent for teaching! Thank you for these VERY informative videos.
Thank you. You explain everything very well. Easy to follow. Blue tape, good idea.
I haven't used those bits yet. Thanks for the help to learn how to use those bits and how to measure.
Thanks man. I read had a rough time with these bits. Now it all works out.
Thank you so much sir, I'm new to woodworking, but I visit you video's often to find help. You have one of the best woodworking channels on UA-cam!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
The video was excellent. It was just to much for me to understand right now. I get the gist but I’m not at the point where I completely get it. I’m at the very beginning of understanding how to work my tools but I’ll come back to this video when I’m ready cause I’m interested in learning how to make cabinet doors for my house. Great video!
Thanks, I have in mind to do a bunch of cabinet doors and drawer fronts and have been hesitant about what joinery method to use. The few little techniques you showed here for measuring and dialing the setup will give me more confidence to get started.
Great tips Colin. Routing is my weakest thing right because it seems harder for me to line my bits up right but I keep on practicing and I know I will feel more secure in time. Especially with all the good tips and tricks you teach me how to do.
You're Welcome, Becky's! Just keep practicing with it, you'll be a pro in no time!.
Thanks Colin 👍 I've had both these bits for awhile and dared not to use them 🤣🤣 but watching your video has told me everything i needed to know 🤘🤘
Great video and I really like the way you get the measurements for the rails, would have never thought of doing it that way. Thank you for that trick.
Thank You! Ready to Try it myself Now!
Thank you! Nice and slow for people like me!
What a helpful video! You're a great teacher!
This will make a perfect picture frame!
You made that super easy to understand. Thank!
Thankyou Colin, this was a beneficial presentation . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England
Thanks. You are very good with detailing❤❤
Mate! What a a nugget of gold. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing. So much time I watch your videos and so many things I learned. Greetings from France
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Very well explained and illustrated
Nicely done explaining everything! Thank you.
Another great video Colin, thank you. Good explanation as always. Keep on posting please.
Hi Mr. Colin, I just LOVE your videos and how you teach us, it's understandable to me. Can you tell me whatthe inside measurements to this
What a way to go to bed... watching your vids Colin.
You rocks my friend!
Two thumbs Up !
Thank You, Mateo!
Great video! Simple steps for a wonderful finish.
Very informative Colin. Thank you. I've made some picture frames with butt joints but this video inspires me to venture on.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
I admire your video skills on your wood tips etc. On the shaker doors using panel bits. I really like to use 3/8 panels for the inserts. Is there a way to use the panel bits in that application. Right now i use dowels and a dado 3/8 bit and leave a 1/8 as the backside reveal so I get the 1/4 inch shaker look on the front with 3/4 stock
You explain everything perfectly - my interest in woodworking is renewed, so thank-you 😊
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Excellent demo.
Great job explaining everything thank you
works great Collin,,thanks for the info
Thank you for the detailed video and your time!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
This is was wonderful. Youre a great teacher!
Great video. I'll have to do some practice runs with setting up the height of the router bit.
Barry
I learned a lot from you thanks master
as usual perfect video, thank you.
Thank you sir for very informative and best presented video
thanks man you,r great
Super simple explanation
Excellent videos, Colin. Regards from your newest fan from Brazil.
So really good tips! Thanks
Excellent video, i Learned a lot
Very helpful video. Thanks for your help
Great video! Newbie question, no brad nailing, only glue?
Hi Colin. I love your videos. You are a master woodworker & appreciate all the amazing contents you provide on your channel. How many passes/door would you say one can make before the bits get dull?
That Freud table is nice Colin, but you need to buy a Canadian made Jess Em adjustable router lift, cut your time in half changing and adjusting bit height not to mention your supporting Canadian made product.
Very nice video Colin! Some day I hope to be half as good as you!
Thank You!
Great tutorial Colin. I think I will have to get some new router bits to add to my collection!
You never have too many router bits ;)
Thanks Colin, one more time & have a nice day.... :-)
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for your video I am learning with your videos
but you didn't mention which Bits are needed i tried to enter your shop but i'm confused which one to buy can you help me with this thanks regards
Please thank you
Excellent tutorial, thank you!
The way I do the stile lengths requires no math and works for any width rail, I cut and groove the rails put them back to back and use the distance from the bottom of the groove to automatically subtract the right amount. It won't work as great if your tenon is much smaller than the groove.
Good video. Great idea with the blue tape and on testing the height of the groove cutting bit. I have a set of tongue and groove bits and I don't like that the groove is too wide for 1/4 plywood. Maybe there are better sets of bits out there than the one I have? The last set of doors I made I used a table saw and had a better outcome. But some of this has to do with my router appears to move slightly up and down while in its base in the router table. I have a Porter Cable router and used some Yonico bits.
Colin, this is an outstanding tutorial for me since I am a beginner. Really fancy the router table. What model/brand is the router table?
Colin you are always interesting and informative 👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks for watching!
Nice one Colin. Have to get some of these bits too
Thank You!
As always, Colon, well done sir.
Thank You, Jim!
You made it look easy.
Thank You!
I couldn’t figure out why every other tutorial said cut the grooves first. Seems logical to cut the tongue first to line up the groove. This is how I’m going to do mine from now on.
Setting up the tongue after the groove is so difficult to line up
This is soooo useful. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the training. One question: why does my pieces chip every time I trim the edge?
You need to put a sacrificial piece of scrap wood and the end to reduce tear out 👍 hope this helps
Thanks Colin it was just what I was looking for. Great vid.
what type of wood did you use? what type of finish would be good without painting or staining?
I like your push grips with sticky mesh on! I'll be definitely doing that! With the end grain work for the tenons would you say that it is better to have a sliding table or table it is no better either way?
Which bits are you using or recommend? Ty!
Thanks Col well done I'm just in the middle of making my home made router table and learning all the bits excellent video mate.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial only wish it was in metric and thanks for the tip of using tape for the back.
hi there, can i ask you something, if you were to make a larder cupboard (oak stiles and rails of 3/4 inch X 2 3/4 inch long) would you thing the tongue of 7/8 like here is long enough? because of the extra strain etc on the joints. or would you go a little bigger ?
Thanks for the video, really inspiring! Going to get some tongue and groove bits soon ready for when I need to make a door.
That was good Colin ... well done regards Mike
Thank You!
What a great training video thank you
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful
Thank You!
Question: Is it easier to cut tongue and groove on a table saw if you have a dado blade than using a Router table?
Great video. Thx
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
can i use regular plywood 1/2 or 3/4 inches tongue and groves or i need to use hard wood
I routed all my grooves first, only once I went to fit one up did i realize that my grooves were not 100% square to the work piece. Probably an issue with how my router is mounted or how it locks down. It's not really an issue for edge profiling but when it comes to joinery it can be a real issue. I'm not sure how to fix it, either. I need to be able to reference the angle of the shank relative to the table surface and make sure it's square, I guess. May need to use shims of some sort between the router and the table.
Great vid - thanks. Was looking for the link to the marking bars! ???
Thanks Bil. You can find the bars here: www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZVPM/?ref=exp_inf_pl_woodworkweb
Curious about something, where did you buy the router table?
I just made my first pair of these doors using my dado blade set on one table saw and a regular blade on the other. Both are jobsite grade tablesaws and i had to really wrestle to get the one with the dados flat. Turnes out the stock insert is bent. I made a zero clearance insert but it didnt fit super tight so i had to be careful on startup of the saw. It wanted to fly out.
Anyway.. im gonna try your tip on.making the tongues first to see if it helps me dial things in faster. I spent a bit of time matching them up at first.
Thanks...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
GREAT JOB 👍👍👍👍
Fantastic video - greatly appreciated!!!
Great demo, Colin!
Thank You!
Great idea tongue to tongue
I am planning to put glass in my shaker doors. Any tips for that? I figure it can fit in the groove like any panel. If it ever breaks I can cut out the back of each groove to fit a new piece in, and hold that in place with hardwood strips. A panel is thicker than a glass pane though.. so maybe I should cut the back of the grooves out and install the glass with wood strips at the start. Let me know what you would do. I will report back after experimenting.
Well explained Colin!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank You!
Is a tongue and groove only cut with a router table? Or can a hand held router be used ?
What is the difference between tongue and groove/rail and stile bits? I've seen them both sold. Are they the same?