Sail Life - Galley 90% done & yet more fairing - DIY sailboat project
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- I'm very close to being done fairing the deck hull joint. There were a few rainy days this week. I took advantage of that and made some progress in the galley.
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Hi, Mads. Another good video. To put the faucet spigot in the center without impeding the doors, add a center stile to the left cabinet frame, and make the doors just a tad narrower. You won't lose any cabinet space, and the faucet can then be centered. If you do this, trim evenly from each side of your existing doors so they look uniform and remount. I still recommend that you consider making your fridge top out of more than one piece. You could make a fixed center section that is 25 or so centimeters wide, and two side sections that open. That will significantly reduce the amount of cold air you lose from your fridge each time you open it. A lot of air moves around in a sail boat, so a lot of your cold air will be replaced by warmer humid air, and you'll get a ton of condensation if you keep your large opening as you have shown it. It will also be stiffer if you make the opening sections narrower.
Hi Mads, all looking good.
With the fridge, don't forget to add a drain port at the lowest part of the bottom to allow condensate out. My fridge makes lots of water in the tropics, and siphoning it out is a pain, wiping it out takes to long and allows warm air in. Best, SV Quo Vadis
+1 on this! You will kick yourself continuously if you don't. If you're gonna go to the trouble of glassing up a liner then make sure you slant the bottom very slightly so it drains to a corner too.
Mine isn't working in my boat yet, but this is a great idea to fit to mine before I get it up and running... Thanks for the idea!
Was going to mention this but you beat me to it. Even a port with a closed valve that runs to a nipple so if needed you can slap a hose on it and capture the run off, without needing a line to the bilge or other elaborate design plus being able to close it keeps that precious cold inside.
Mads, change the doors on the cabinets to roll up doors. They easy to make, use no room and easy to repair if damaged. You already made the slats just leave out the edge part, epoxy a fiber on the back and make a guide runner inside the box.
Would solve the issue of the focet
Or get a hold of some throw hinges so that the doors open from the centre (when open they would look like sides to the area above the sink. Difficult to explain in text without drawing it).
I considered that but i would have to wrap around and that would waste a lot of space :)
Sliding doors so one overlaps the other no wasted space and still keeps good access
I was thinking folding doors to keep the faucet in the center. Make four panels instead of two and join two in the center with hinges for each side. I think with the size, you wouldn't need a track on the top and bottom like a folding closet door. You won't loose any space and can open both sides of the storage space at the same time so you won't loose any usability. it does double the panels you need to make and the number of hinges, but I think it would solve your problem.
Hi Mads, it must be roughly 5 years since I started following you and your projects. It is the only channel where I know that sunday evening doesn't suck because there is going to be a video from you. Since 5 years you manage to make fantastic videos, keep them informative, well organized and just fun! I admire your approach on such huge projects and step by step reaching the final goal where the most people would have just given up at a certain point! I wish you 5 more fantastic years (and hopefully more) of boat working in all of its glory (even the sanding).
Make a “dummy” or false drawer front for the space in front of the sink to complete the look!
or a tip out tray for sponges and scrubies.
Scrolled down to say exactly this but as F Nansen says to hold items. The kits are easily available and can be shipped from the US if not available there.
@@fjanson2468 Could also put a trim edge along the whole top front to unify the whole cabinet.
Yet again terrific progress - don’t forget the provision of condensate drain in your fridge box construction 😉👍⛵️
In your case material does not matter. Glass the fridge enough from inside and let the moisture run away from underneath.
I'm always very envious when I see people working on boats, especially cosmetic stuff.
Love the drawer fronts and cabinet doors. I'd make a faux drawer front to put in place in front of the sink.
I was thinking about your sink and your cabinet doors. As you open the doors, it appears they clear the faucet if you mount it exactly between the doors. Or make the doors accordion design opening to your left. Well just try it out and see.
Place the faucet on the corner next to the stove, and chose a longer version that can reach over the stove so that you can fill pots without removing them from the potholders?
maybe use the version that Uma has?
That's something you need to spend your time defending your decisions !!!!! Your boat your plans your design your ass on the line . You do is just the way you want...... Excellent videos looking forward to more....
I like that better then my ideal.
Maybe one with a spay hose that you can pull out.
Corner faucets are absolute trash tho. Never in the right spot, always in the way. PITA.
The galley is really starting to look spiffy and your presentation is as always one of the best on the net.
18 Dislikes. I have no idea how someone could watch this video and not be completely amazed by the quality of the production, the work, the care, and the attention to detail that Mads puts in each week. Great job, Mads and another like from me!!! Well done and very inspiring!!!
You bring “oh Glorious Sanding” to an art form!! 👍
Best boating page on YT by far. No SJW, no politics, no bikinis. Thanks
when i built my fridge for my boat i had a stainless shell made and it was worth the extra cost and made keeping the fridge clean and sterile and safe one last thing to worry about and it lasted over 40 years and its still like new
The fridges in my boat are stainless as well, haven't been used for the past ten years or so and look great. I think it would be worth the extra cost.
Mads your joinery is gorgeous. That "bare plywood" looks better than half of the finished stuff I've seen commercially available.
Don't forget a drain bung in your refrigerator. Love the drawer and cabinet fronts.
IF there is enough depth between the galley sink and the base cabinet face, a "dummy" drawer face can be added here with a flip down finish face which reveals a long plastic trough open at the top to be used for storing sink and dish scrub brushes, etc. I have one of these at home at it is simple and works very well.
Thank you Mads for another video of glorious sanding, excellent wood working, fairing joints and general progress towards relaunching Athena. Your energy always amazes me. Take care, stay well and looking forward to seeing the refrigerator build.
sheesh... your galley cabinetry has become a structural reinforcement of your boat .. I like it!
I love this channel, I love Mads patient and deliberate explanations and craftsmanship, and I love the people all being polite in the comments. Feelsgood :)
Glad to see you're planning a way to lock the island top open!
After going through a minor interior refit on my own boat, I have a new found respect for you Mads.
Thanks :D
Your local IKEA store will be loaded with Masonite faced boards, a.k.a. Shelves with white plastic stuff layer glued to it.... can also be bought in counter top sizes....see products named “Lilltrask” with the two dots over the A- conversely our big box hardware stores in the US have single faced plywood covered with the laminate on one side which would allow you to epoxy seal the edges and back to protect from moisture. The edges are treated with an iron-on matching banding that is applied once cut to size... message if you need more info, I’d be happy to purchase banding and ship to you if you can’t source locally. Dan Houston, TX USA
The galley looks so good already, super spiffy!
The one fridge I've made I lined with stainless steel. As you've got access to a TIG welder I'm surprised you didn't consider that option.
I totally agree. Way easier to keep clean and no mold will grow. I did that on my sailboat refit.
Also going to take up less room than the 10 Mil foam board plus 4 layers of bi axial glass. It would be significantly more expensive than his plan, but less elegant.
Agree with SS idea. Make sure you put a bevel at the starboard, inside edge of the insulation on the top so the top will open. A square edge will not slide open with the hinges you’ve chosen.
Mads - Regarding the diagonal wiggle of the fridge top and the rod to connect the two ends - you will need a rod connected diagonally to the same strut on the other side and it would be advisable to have another rod connecting the other 2 struts to one another at the opposite diagonal angle. If you only had a single rod connected to the same strut at the other side, it would not be effective and would place huge stresses at the rod joints.
BTW I've haven't missed an episode since a good while before you bought Athena and I am so stoked to see how she is coming along! Amazing work.
Mads, i watch your videos for a long time now and they are very inspiring! Keep up the good work!
For the faucet, i would place it right where you showed us, but change the faucet itself to one with an extendable hose - if you dont know them: you can typically grab the last 15cm of the faucet and pull it out, a little like a shower head. Very useful to reach the corners or bottom of the sink without making a mess, or filling a pot/bucket with water and so on.
Greetings from Germany!
YES, I have one & use it daily !!!!!
My wife said to do roller doors behind the sink, I like the corner placement myself, thanks Mads
Sliding doors or a roll up door and keep the faucet in the middle. You could almost have a retractable hose and have the faucet come up from the side. Maybe a tilt drawer facia in the front the sink would be a nice cabinetry finishing touch.
Nice galley, haha,don't forget the pizza oven! Great progress Mads 👍
Why not fiberglass the fridge? You're pretty much a pro at it by now!
Edit: Spoke too soon. You've already considered fiberglass lol
This.
For the faucet you can change it to a restaurant style that rises well above the top of the door and has a flexible hoop that hangs down. It will give you distance and will be able to be moved as well as be able to extend and reach all corners of the sinks. André
For your fridge stabilising rod, you could use two rods ending opposite handed screw threads in the centre. You could then use a threaded coupling in the centre to tension it
Great work Mads, she’s coming along.
Mads, you Sir, are Aces.
Great Job! It’s looking very nicely and looking forward to your refrigerator built. Good luck with the weather net week.
The cabinet doors look great but I would add some sort of ventilation. Closed spaces are never a good thing aboard a yacht. You often find washerboard style or basket weave doors on traditional boats. Halber Rassey uses extra ventilation on top of there cabinets.
Loving your work Mads. Have you thought about a conventional lift up hatch in the counter top. You could make it flush but it would allow access in a seaway when lifting the whole counter could be unwieldy. You could even make a feature of it and inset something either decorative or sacrificial as a chopping board or heat proof as trivet
You should put the faucet left of the zink. That way you get a more clean workspace to the right, and - depending on the height of the faucet - will be able to fill water in your pots and pans directly on the stovetop.
This is my first comment - absolutely love your videos, and have seen every single one of the ones regarding Athena 👍
For the fridge, suggest creating a fiberglass skin to your insulation. For the sink, bi-fold the door and put in a top guiderail. Also suggest everything have an optio to lock closed / lock open so you don't get your fingers clobbered when a rogue wave hits.
Use thin dark tinted but able to see-through plexi that slide. Open one side get to half of cabinet, close and open other side for the other. The spray back off the sink will also make cleaning the doors easier and let’s you keep the faucet in the middle of sink. Every boat I’ve been aboard has had this. Don’t need every cabinet door to open out.
Hi Mads, definitely longer arms on the fridge hinges. Separating the arms more front to back and welding 13mm tubing to the arms across the underside of the countertop will help eliminate the floppiness. The tubing can intersect with the pivot point as well and then the tube will only rotate and not move in an arc. I would consider making a stainless steel liner for the fridge rather than foam/fiberglass. It will give you more precious cubic millimeters inside and remember you don't need quite as much insulation for the lid because of the countertop. Saves more of those cubic mm's Perhaps a flush button in the countertop to unlock and open. I think the faucet in front of the knee is best, not the ideal but the most functional. Best Wishes.
Hi Mad's, looks fantastic, faucet to the side will be fine i think, maybe shape a piece of teak for a base to raise it and keep water away, also an idea; in front of the sink if you make another fascia (like the draws) and hinge it with piano hinge you should be able to place a small thin pocket behind it for things like, sink plug and hand soap or scourers etc, all the best from Aus, Allan
Magnificent Mads and his fine wood working, fiberglass, epoxy, plumbing....... Anyway, have you considered fold down faucets? Great work as usual!!!
Glorious sanding!
A roll up door for in behind the sink.. ya know kinda like a desk or garage.. they are a common thing on a boat and wont look out of place.. use similar materials and look to make it match the rest of the cabnets.. your well skilled in your craftsmanship.. I have faith that you can do this idea .. cause it will allow the faucet where you want it and have 100% of the storage space
Island top opening:
Mads,
There are going to be times when raising the island top are going to be very inconvenient and a flip top would be a better option for that moment. If I were redesigning the lift mechanism I would try to incorporate an either or option. This would allow a quick flip up OR if items are on the top you don't want to move you could still raise it.
Good luck
You could make a "scrolltop" door behind the sink. It would make the locker a little but smaller but if you really want the faucet in the middle it could be a good compromise.
Did you ever think about building a trammel for the cabinet doors? Like a roll-top desk. I’m planning that for my lockers next to my dinette. And, everywhere I need a door. They’re more reliably secure in heavy weather and they need no travel area whatsoever.
Tambour doors. Stay away from open cell foams, they do not insulate as well and they absorb moisture. With closed cell foams you do need it as thick as the phenolic foam. It's a balance between usable space, and efficiency of the insulation. My suggestion is a expanded polypropylene foam. It's durable as hell and a great insulator being closed cell. I also suggest vacuum bagging a tub for the inside of the fridge.
Mads, you might want to add secondary sliders onto the two (2) larger cabinets, half way up to help spread the load.
BTW, no playing in the water puddle in the shop! 😉
Great progress. Things are really coming together nicely.
You, my friend, are very talented. Great looking doors.
Swedish manufacturer of Boat fridges Isotherm also sell complete sets of insulation that are lined with a durable layer that also complies with hygiene standards
For the fridge, perhaps lay up some glass over the foam before placing. Then a fillet and a little sanding and paint. Plus the fillet would make cleaning bits from the bottom easier than sharp corners.
Make a center divider in your cabinet frame. The doors can be narrower and will clear the faucet so long as you mount it closest to the sink.
Hiya dear sir, great video, thank you. I'm sorry you could not head to LA for 3 weeks but Athena wins your time & so do we. When you are done could you pop to England & make a new kitchen for me? lol.
Take care & stay safe...
For behind the sink, make a coiling garage type door. You could have slats to match the cabinet door stiles.
for the sink, consider the back left corner, then your faucet could double as a pot filler.also it would prevent your door from opening up too far and running into your stove/oven box when not on the level. For the interior of the fridge consider FRP wall board, its cheap, thin, durable, and waterproof.
Fiberglass fridge interior is an outstanding idea. That surface needs to be waterproof and washable. You will, of course, need to insulate and line the top as well. Drain to the bilge for condensate, or maybe a pan somewhere?
Nice job on the draws and cupboards
You could add a vertical frame or mullion that is the same width of the faucet. That way the doors can open to the left/right.
On the cabinet door hinges: why not use regular household furniture door hinges? The ones that have the two adjustment-screws and such. The benefit I would see in those is that they have no play, so the won't rattle an I think you can get spring loaded ones that stay open/closed by themselves (still need to be locked underway though)
Been watching you're video's for over a year now, and I don't even own a boat 😅 but I hope to in the future. Thanks for all the great video's 😄🇩🇰
Great episode. Athena is coming along fine and looking spiffy!. I recommend that you provide for a drain in the refrigerator. Drain can be passive and drain to the bilge (not the greatest due to potential for smelly water etc. in the bilge) or plumbed with a manual foot pump (my personal recommendation) or even small electric pump. May be possible to drain the refrigerator to galley drain. I have had several boats and I am always needing to use a drain feature due to something that spilled, leaked or otherwise made a mess in the bottom of the refrigerator box.
Nice job on the doors and drawers.
For the refrigerator, you can get counter top laminates (AKA High pressure Laminate, Formica etc) that have metallic surfaces in brushed aluminum and stainless. They are on the order of 1-2 mm thick and can be epoxy or contact cemented to your insulation foam to give you a nice clean interior surface. I am sure you could epoxy bond thin stainless or aluminum sheet metal to the foam or fiber glass topped foam as well. If you need better insulation Panasonic makes standard size vacuum insulated panels in 15 and 25 mm thick that could be integrated in with the foam. (U-Vacua) The 25 mm units have an R value of 66. DigiKey dot com has them, a 609mm x 569mm x 24mm panel is only $37 us. Just inset one panel in a pocket cut into each of your side and bottom foam panels. Just discovered these may have to buy one to play with.
Mad’s if you add a matching false front in front of the sink it will in prove the look.
Just remember mads, l know you're not going to do this, but if you varnished all that lovely wood,it would give a much more warm feeling. And give a more rich feel.Painted white is going to feel cold and give a more cheap feel to your beautiful wood work that you have put so much effort into doing perfectly, just to paint over it white. Just hope you dont regret it,on the other hand just glorious sanding to put back to wood colour lol. All Do it yourself boats have everything painted white because they did not have the wood working skills to have the high standard you have achieved.
We have sliding doors in the galley. They work well. Maybe a solution for behind your galley sink. Nice work on everything!
Sugatsune makes a clever hinge that opens and slides the door in a way it won’t hit a center mounted sink.
My galley faucet is off to the side as you are planning to do and found that it is a definite advantage to centering it.
Mads, you could bi-fold the doors similar to a closet door where it is captured in a track and slides/opens out in the center.
With as much work as you get done in a week, I know you have to have a few minions helping you. You are good at keeping them out of the camera sights. Great video.
He doesn't but that isn't 3ven the impressive part. He does the work. He videos it. Then he edits the video in the SAME WEEK and uploads it.
LED lights inside the storage ! Roll up doors would be cool but has to roll up somewhere... If they have to start rolling down the back. The swing doors will keep your galley clean ;) one way or the other
Love your channel, your doing a great job, can't wait to see it completed.
It’s exciting seeing much closer to what it will look like finished.
This was the highlight of this week. I’m already waiting for the next one!
Sportsman, If you decide you do not like sailing after all, you can made bespoke kitchens!! You work is quality.
I'm gonna go crazy and suggest you look up a thermoforming option for your fridge's interior. A bit of an expense, if you can't find the shop to do it for you, but it's worth it, besides, you don't have a big box, so you could probably make your own quick and dirty thermoforming table.
Athena is really beginning to look like a home, Mads! Well done. I just love your attention to detail.
I've owned a few copies of Calders book. Man, I learnt so much from that. Without doubt it's a key reference for anyone who owns a boat. Every boat should have a copy
Really coming together. Awesome work.
You are truly a super hero. Keep learning a lot from you in every episode. Wonder if you will be able to adapt to “sailing to the sunset” lifestyle when you get done, or you will immediately start building a catamaran from the ground up
Mads may have slipped away from us team... I sense he is getting more and more in love with OGS (oh glorious sanding). He may need to start attending the local S-A chapter meetings. First step is admitting it Mads ;). Until then keep the cameras rolling :) good stuff.
Place the 'barrel' of the hinge on a hard surface and tap it with a small hammer. That should snug up the coiled part of the hinge around the hinge pin, removing any 'slop'. I would wind some three ply rope around that bare pole, then coat it with some sealer to keep it clean, aside from the 'nautical' look, it would provide a slip proof grip in rough seas...And, if you want to be able to open the fridge top with 'stuff' still on it, install a couple of auto tailgate pistons. They're cheap at a junk yard and have a powerful nitrogen filled piston that slowly raises a lot of weight. You just need a 'down latch' to hold it closed. Press the latch and the lid slowly rises on it's own. They're longer, so their base would have to be mounted further down, but it's only 12 to 18" depending on the model...You may need a drain to handle condensation and spills in the fridge, but you will probably want to use a 'catch bottle' rather than let spilled milk drain into the bilge... ; {
Obscure English word: Masonite - May - son - ite. Emphasis is on the May. I second the idea of the false drawer front at the sink. Fiddles could also be this same wood and same thickness to tie it all together nicely. Looks good!
Not obscure, used constantly in construction of doors, cheap cabinets, and furniture. Mads, I would avoid it as it can absorb moisture. Just use fiberglass or weld up some SS.
Hey Mads, If you see this, I highly recommend using roll top opening for the space behind the sink. You can still use the sink as normal, it will roll up out of the way, and you can easily make them out of the wood you have by making rounded slats or use dowels with a canvas backing. Using a spring loaded spindle will make it smooth as butter.
Really great job on the cabinets well done. Getting the outside of the boat ready before snow comes back is a really good idea 👍. Love your videos ❤️ Australia ❤️
Love your videos, keep it up!! Please
Just a small thought kitchen, its obvious you cant fit a drawer where sink is....my thought is for what would appear to be a drawer front, but instead of sliding open like a drawer, it tilts open say 45° and attached to drawer front would be a full width pocket/pouch between drawer front and sink - made out of stainless sheet. This to house cleaning things, like sponges, pot scourer, brush etc
Great progress, the galley doors are beautiful! Aloha!
Good to see more than one person is following Mads from the far side of the world
🤙🙋♂️
Just here to say that your comment that "The hull is going to be covered in insulation, so I don't need to paint that" set off my CDO alarm in your behalf. I don't think I would have the courage to not paint it, because in the back of my mind, I would always know that the hull was naked underneath the future insulation...kind of like a boat that's not wearing underwear. But that's my issue. I LOVE your videos and the effort you make to do the best job you can. The progress you've made is awesome and the boat is beginning to look very spiffy. Thanks for sharing your journey with the rest of us.
Hi mads, just a sugestion for your life line staunchans don,t bolt them on, drill a hole where the staunchans are to go and fibreglass tubes in, made out of carbon fiber or fiberglass, the appropriate size to take your staunchans with the tubes sealed with epoxy at the bottom these will never leak and is very strong when fiberglassed to the hull inside cheers just a suggestion
I've been enjoying your channel forever it seems. Thanks for the effort in bringing this work to us. I appreciate it each Sunday.
hi the boat is coming long grate so keep up with the good work
NO!! Mads, you've cocked up the panel doors (and drawer fronts). It's an absolute fundamental of building panels with solid timber that the panel floats....ie it isn't glued into the frame (and is slightly undersized). This allows for expansion and contraction. Now, if you were in a stable environment in a centrally heated super-insulated house, you'd have a small chance of getting away with it, but in a marine environment as soon as the humidity changes you are going to have big issues. Wood expands and contracts across the grain, and not with it, so the rails (top and bottom members of the frame) are going to remain the same length no matter what, but the panels within them could expand or contract by 5% to even 10%, depending on the timber species. That a means complete breakdown will occur somewhere, either cracking within the panel for shrinkage, or bursting open a joint in the case of expansion. I've been making solid wood furniture for the last 40 years, and that was a very harsh lesson I learned the hard way many decades ago. Such a pity, but you'll have to re-make them......either now, or after they've ruined themselves.
Great looking kitchen !!
If it's not too late you might want to think about rounding over those sharp edges on the cabinet doors as they are going to get a lot of hard use and those sharp edges will be fracture points where the varnish will crack allowing moisture to seep into the wood causing stains and the varnish to peel. Otherwise they look great.
I think the faucet at the corner of the sink is OK. Better than in the middle.
Looking beautiful
Mads..you can do a roll-up door behind the sink...they work quite well...I had them in an older boat. Oops...looks like you already finished them.
There are types of faucets designed to be put in front of windows. They can be taken out completly for opening the window or cabinet door. German search term would bei "vorfenster montage". E.g. Blanco and Franke have some models.