Josh, that you actually got that ribbed insert in after greasing it, contrary to ES' printed instructions, is amazing. The outer shell 08p08399 is to be greased before insertion into arm. Its 'insert' piece 08p08400 (my PN's may be inverse) explicitly states NOT to grease the ribs of the piece you press into the shell. For good reason... The tolerance between these pieces is so close that the grease actually inhibited me from getting the last two ribs down, even in my press. I ruined it trying to back out (there was no 'going in' at that point) - and ended up having to order those individual pieces directly from ES. And the wait time has been one month already. I ultimately just ordered a whole new LCA bushing set because of my inability to get those individual pieces after the fact. Tough lesson learned. The side in which I did NOT use grease between the insert and shell went together without great effort. Disclaimer: Of course I properly greased their contact with the aluminum arms and then the bolt facing surfaces (inside), before pressing the metal inserts in...
Any chance you all will be making a video on replacing the differential bushing? I have some Whitelines laying around that I need to install. I've got my Bell Raceworks diff brace going in very soon and already have Z1 subframe bushing collars installed.
yes and no, we have one recorded and almost ready to go. It's not on a 350 or a G but it is very similar across many platforms, and we will be using whiteline as well.
CAUTION: Using these bushings with the existing mounting bolts will cause your suspension to make a rattling noise over even minor bumps. This is due to a small amount of play between the metal inserts and the bolts. Save yourself hours of labor and buy a higher quality bushing kit.
I know right? I even bought a new set from conceptz thinking that maybe the old inserts had just worn. Bolt and new insert in-hand I confirmed that there is significant play between the two. My bolts are bone stock and fit into the frame holes precisely which means you'd have to drill the frame and put in larger bolts to make these fit. 350Z forum members ive talked to switched to Whitelines. I recommend going with a different vendor since they're careless enough to still sell these and say nothing about the fitment issue.
I've used the reds, it's tight to aircraft tolerances on my lower shock mount. I am using a replacement bolt & nut, brand new, however. It looks like that original bolt PN may have been superseded.
The following pertains to energysuspension bushings. There are a lot of issues with these bushings, some are not manufacturers' fault, others - are. And I am not talking about price - this is something the buyer at least knows in advance. 1. Their claim that all it takes is "some smoke from the bushing to separate the sleeves from rubber" is outright lie. It may be the case with jeep but certainly not with Toyota - you need to torch it for a long time to actually burn rubber off. 2. The fact that they don't provide sleeves with the bushings is simply ridiculous. Especially considering price. In fact, I would not mind paying extra so that I did not have to dicect the old bushings, and the first issue is minor compared to this one. It is pretty common for bolts/sleeves freeze in bushings so it's virtually impossible to separated them from inner bushing sleeves without damaging. It may not be an issue with jeeps and fords because their bushings are replaced on a regular basis but Toyota bushings last so long that it's practically unavoidable to face this. In my case, the truck is 17 yo with 230,000 miles, and the original bushings were still good. The only reason I had to replace them was installation of lift and JBA upper control arms that required alignment that couldn't be performed because - you guessed it - one bolt and one cam sleeve were frozen. After 17 years in the Midwest and N-E, is should not come as a surprise. This condition requires a hell of a lot of heating and pounding, pounding and heating, and then it's a real PITA to attach the [original] washers to most likely damaged bushing sleeves. 3. The last issue is design - there are no lubrication means. And don't tell me it's impossible - just look at JBA upper control arms. I installed grease fitting in control arm ears and drilled holes in the bushings to allow grease flow to inner sleeves. Hope it will work. Overall, bushing material is probably adequate but pure inexcusable greed that prevented the manufacturer from providing lower bushing sleeves and washers (even for extra $$) is beyond ridiculous. Bottom line: if your vehicle is 10+ yo and has spent that time in places where winter happens every year, expect MAJOR (BIGLY!) hassle installing these bushings. Or - MUCH BETTER OPTION - buy from another manufacture that does provide all necessary coponents and does not force to wash and reuse condoms because reusing bushing sleeves is just as ridiculous as reusing condoms.
Go to a shop and have them pressed in. Or invest in a press, well worth it, but if you can't buy it go to a shop you trust. As these can break and its better to have them installed properly than to break them and having to order a new set. There are some cheaper tools than could possibly get you buy like ball joint presses but I wouldn't recommend that for this specific bushing.
I have to say the instructor in the video was extremely professional to the point to where I was impressed. I would not be able to do this video without making some sort of sexual innuendo... good job but don't be scared to say fucking hilarious off the wall dirty shit!
Josh, that you actually got that ribbed insert in after greasing it, contrary to ES' printed instructions, is amazing.
The outer shell 08p08399 is to be greased before insertion into arm.
Its 'insert' piece 08p08400 (my PN's may be inverse) explicitly states NOT to grease the ribs of the piece you press into the shell.
For good reason... The tolerance between these pieces is so close that the grease actually inhibited me from getting the last two ribs down, even in my press. I ruined it trying to back out (there was no 'going in' at that point) - and ended up having to order those individual pieces directly from ES. And the wait time has been one month already.
I ultimately just ordered a whole new LCA bushing set because of my inability to get those individual pieces after the fact. Tough lesson learned.
The side in which I did NOT use grease between the insert and shell went together without great effort.
Disclaimer: Of course I properly greased their contact with the aluminum arms and then the bolt facing surfaces (inside), before pressing the metal inserts in...
interesting. The instruction from Engergy suspension indicate no grease until inserting the sleve.
The zoom from the cameraman is funny.
Great products from energy have all of there products in my rear of my 350z i need to donthe front soon
Any chance you all will be making a video on replacing the differential bushing? I have some Whitelines laying around that I need to install. I've got my Bell Raceworks diff brace going in very soon and already have Z1 subframe bushing collars installed.
yes and no, we have one recorded and almost ready to go. It's not on a 350 or a G but it is very similar across many platforms, and we will be using whiteline as well.
I so need to do this to mine
Great video and nice technique!!!
So the black bushings on the ends are White Line correct?
Replacing these bushings will it help with camber?my stock bushings are smashed.
I just ordered the Energy brand bushings for my 1st Gen Taco. What's the life expectancy of this brand of bushing?
CAUTION: Using these bushings with the existing mounting bolts will cause your suspension to make a rattling noise over even minor bumps. This is due to a small amount of play between the metal inserts and the bolts. Save yourself hours of labor and buy a higher quality bushing kit.
how could they make a critical error like that? Maybe your old bolt is worn?
I was told gktech was good
I know right? I even bought a new set from conceptz thinking that maybe the old inserts had just worn. Bolt and new insert in-hand I confirmed that there is significant play between the two. My bolts are bone stock and fit into the frame holes precisely which means you'd have to drill the frame and put in larger bolts to make these fit.
350Z forum members ive talked to switched to Whitelines. I recommend going with a different vendor since they're careless enough to still sell these and say nothing about the fitment issue.
@@Gramatron5000 i got the bushing kit right here, its black not red from energy and they are tight and diameter is the same
Do me a favor and tell me the part# that you ordered.
I've used the reds, it's tight to aircraft tolerances on my lower shock mount. I am using a replacement bolt & nut, brand new, however. It looks like that original bolt PN may have been superseded.
The following pertains to energysuspension bushings.
There are a lot of issues with these bushings, some are not manufacturers' fault, others - are. And I am not talking about price - this is something the buyer at least knows in advance.
1. Their claim that all it takes is "some smoke from the bushing to separate the sleeves from rubber" is outright lie. It may be the case with jeep but certainly not with Toyota - you need to torch it for a long time to actually burn rubber off.
2. The fact that they don't provide sleeves with the bushings is simply ridiculous. Especially considering price. In fact, I would not mind paying extra so that I did not have to dicect the old bushings, and the first issue is minor compared to this one. It is pretty common for bolts/sleeves freeze in bushings so it's virtually impossible to separated them from inner bushing sleeves without damaging.
It may not be an issue with jeeps and fords because their bushings are replaced on a regular basis but Toyota bushings last so long that it's practically unavoidable to face this. In my case, the truck is 17 yo with 230,000 miles, and the original bushings were still good. The only reason I had to replace them was installation of lift and JBA upper control arms that required alignment that couldn't be performed because - you guessed it - one bolt and one cam sleeve were frozen. After 17 years in the Midwest and N-E, is should not come as a surprise.
This condition requires a hell of a lot of heating and pounding, pounding and heating, and then it's a real PITA to attach the [original] washers to most likely damaged bushing sleeves.
3. The last issue is design - there are no lubrication means. And don't tell me it's impossible - just look at JBA upper control arms. I installed grease fitting in control arm ears and drilled holes in the bushings to allow grease flow to inner sleeves. Hope it will work.
Overall, bushing material is probably adequate but pure inexcusable greed that prevented the manufacturer from providing lower bushing sleeves and washers (even for extra $$) is beyond ridiculous.
Bottom line: if your vehicle is 10+ yo and has spent that time in places where winter happens every year, expect MAJOR (BIGLY!) hassle installing these bushings. Or - MUCH BETTER OPTION - buy from another manufacture that does provide all necessary coponents and does not force to wash and reuse condoms because reusing bushing sleeves is just as ridiculous as reusing condoms.
Thank god I found this comment from a fellow Nebraskan… white lines it is 👌🏻
Any tips if u dont have a press ?
Go to a shop and have them pressed in. Or invest in a press, well worth it, but if you can't buy it go to a shop you trust. As these can break and its better to have them installed properly than to break them and having to order a new set. There are some cheaper tools than could possibly get you buy like ball joint presses but I wouldn't recommend that for this specific bushing.
Ok thanks also would u recommend these for my lowerd g35 I like to drive very low
@@mractive420 yes these should do the job just fine
How do you remove that specific bushing once it's pressed on there
You do not. I know from experience. You'll have to carve and/or melt it out.
I have to say the instructor in the video was extremely professional to the point to where I was impressed. I would not be able to do this video without making some sort of sexual innuendo... good job but don't be scared to say fucking hilarious off the wall dirty shit!
Do both hols need to be chamfered
no, just the one was necessary for us