21st Century Dual Isolated Batteries - WITH SOLAR for Overland vehicles
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2021
- I dive into the design and features of the latest and greatest in dual isolated batteries with solar, and then show you how I install and wire up the whole system before finally monitoring the performance.
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#JeepGladiator #RenogySolar #VanSolar - Навчання та стиль
Hey Dan, electrical engineer (well, almost, I’m finishing up school) here. First of all, great video and great system you’ve designed. I have one suggestion about the way you’ve installed your fuse for the starter battery. By putting the fuse near the charge controller, you are essentially protecting only for when the charge controller is charging the starter battery. However, since that charge controller seems to be well made, I would guess that in the event of a short, it would detect a fault and stop trying to charge the starter battery anyway. So I don’t think the fuse is doing much good there. Now consider the case where there is a short between the starter battery and the charge controller. This could happen because the chassis of the vehicle is grounded as you mentioned. The result could be a dead short circuit across your starter battery, which would at best drain it, at worst cause a fire. All this to say - I would recommend adding a fuse right at the starter battery on the positive terminal to protect from this case. Even though a short is probably unlikely I’d personally do it because it’s easy and cheap. Anyway just my 2 cents, I could be totally wrong here but that’s just what I noticed. Again, great video!
agree
You’re totally right mate
Hi Dan !
I really believe this fuse between the starter battery and the charger should be close to the battery. Your cable between the 2 is quite long and it's installed by you (so it does not have all the OEM validation to make sure nothing rubs or cuts it), if it ends up shorting along the way your main battery will be in short circuit and the risk of fire is important.
Actually I would put an inline fuse as close as possible of the battery post, if the fuse was to completely melt the positive wire connected to the battery should not be long enough to touch anything.
For me the only cable allowed to connect to the battery without an inline fuse is the starter cable, anything else goes through a fuse before to leave the battery perimeter.
I think that he is supposed to used one of the 40A fuse that he got amd use that from the starter battery back to the DC-DC charger.
Using the fuse from the DC-DC to the house battery is a bit overdoing it I think, that short distance is more fuse than cable now :)
But nice video, Im thinking of upgrading my setup to Lithium ...
Yes- I was thinking the same. There should always be fuse next to the power source. - Also next to the car battery in this case.
I agree with the fuse close to the starter battery, personally I prefer circuit breakers as opposed to a fuse. It also makes it easy to disconnect the aux system.
Hi Dan, I agree with the other comments here, please put an in line 40A fuse close to the positive post of the starter battery. This will protect your car in case you have a short on your long connection to the house battery. The fuse you installed will not kick in if this happens.
I concur with these comments.
HI Dan. That was an EXCEPTIONALLY great and thorough video. You answered a lot of the questions I had around how a dual isolated battery system would work. Thank you so much for the thorough explanation and install video!
Awesome, thank you!
I don't think any marketing department could have produced a commercial that would be more effective than this 35-minute UToob video.
Mr. TRCM has caused me to rethink my House/Solar/SUV battery system that I'm close to implementing.
Looks like I'll be saving up to purchase that Regony DC/DC Charger........
Hi Dan - I know your sparky suggested 6mm wire (which I am gathering is 6 mm squared) but that seems a tad light for 30A over 4 or 5 metres. You'll be getting about 0.7 or 0.8v voltage drop through that cable size, for that distance, so 12.7v at the battery could come out the other end at 11.9v. It doesn't matter much I suppose because the DC/DC charger will boost it to what the lithium needs, but you could have gone up a size in the wire. And as everyone else has said - fuse right next to the starter battery.
Really like the idea of the solar charging both the house battery and the start battery - that's great. And the bluetooth too. Wish my RedArc system had the bluetooth option.
Cheers - David
A couple of quick observations... you definitely need a fuse at the starter battery. That's critical. Also, it's too late since you've already run the wire but it'll be interesting to see how it's working once you have the system in operation. The 6mm (10 gauge) wire you choose is thinner than we'd use for that application. Making some guesses about the total wire run length, if you're pulling 30A to charge the house battery you're going to have a voltage drop of over 5% which is a lot. Heavier gauge wire would definitely be better. Still, the controller is showing 25A at a high voltage which is interested but seems sort of impossible. It might be worth checking at the terminals with a meter.
Excellent video. Renogy set up looks superb.
Your whole setup looks sooooo professional. I am thoroughly inspired and at the same time insanely jealous!
Awesome video man. Thank you for posting.
Another great video! Looking forward to what is coming next!
Thank you, thank you! Best of the tons of videos I've watched so far trying to get my head around all this.
WOW! so simple thanks for breaking it down for me. I was always scared of doing something like this but not anymore, thanks again.
So thorough and so well explained. This is incredibly useful for someone who is just starting to think about batteries. thank you so much
💥BOOM💥!!
Danny boy,, You blew it out of the water with this video tutorial 💯!
Excellent job and
simple explanation for Joe Average(me) to understand. Standing by for your next installment 👍.
Cheers 🍻, G.
In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇸
Great Video! Whatever the guys at Renogy are paying you, it’s not enough!!!!!
Thanks for share and your experience
That was a great explanation Dan. I think you’ve sold me on Renergy Solar. I hadn’t heard of them, but those prices are way better than other alternatives! Thanks for another great video! Have fun building out your gladiator brother!
Looks like a nice and handy setup. Cheers 🍻
Very professional installation, and excellent explanation Dan. As a retired aircraft mechanic with a degree in aircraft systems technology, I learned something. Imagine that! You can teach an old dog a new trick.
Well done.👍
Thanks for that nice video again. I was planning just the same electrical setup for my vehicle (no mains input, no converter) but with a larger capacity battery to give me some extra reserve while we don't have as much sunshine here in Belgium as you have in Australia. Best Regards from Belgium, David
Just bought the 50 amp version + BT2 after seeing your video ! Thanks Dan
Great timing. About to start a new build and was about to order from Renogy anyway. Used your code and saved myself some money!
Glad I could help
Hello Dan. I just completed an install with this Renogy set up on my Jeep JK. I was inspired by this video and followed your instruction precisely. My set up works flawlessly. Thank for provide such great content. I am grateful.
Great to hear! that is EXACTLY why I started this channel and do what I do.
Really happy to help out, and thanks so much for letting me know!
I completely agree with Renogy as a top choice. I've been using their stuff in a few applications for years and they're great.
Good to see you're moving along on the build.
If only the app wasn't buggy as hell. Constantly have to restart app, restart bluetooth, delete the charger from the app and re-add it, unplug and replug bluetooth adapter.
It's a sweet setup he's installing. I use renogy in my remote workshop and on my property.
In my overland vehicle I use a 60 dollar off brand isolator and an 80 dollar Walmart deep cycle battery. It's been doing the job for two and a half years running the fridge and accessories. Granted, I'm not going around a continent but what's the difference? It's still running everyday for 2 1/2 years for 140 bucks!
Thought I was going to reuse the charge controller and solenoid set up from my last build, but you just convinced me I gotta get all the 21st century gadgets. Thanks for the info... I guess😂
Great video mate. I've installed my renogy system about 6 months ago and have been well pleased. Will prouse gave it brilliant reviews. Mine's a defender with 300 watts of flexi panels on the roof ( not much sun in the UK lol ) the renogy 50 amp charger and the renogy 100 amp lithium battery. Even easier to wire as the starter battery on mine is under the front seat. It also gives me the option of linking a 2nd House battery and maybe using a inverter to run a induction hob for cooking, should funds permit in the future. Would save carting around gas cooker and bottle. Another bonus is when parked up at home for any length of time, the solar keeps both batteries fully charged and prolongs their life.
Awesome informative vid👍
Thank you!
I love that Renogy DC to DC charger... wish I had bought it instead of the 30 Amp MPPT Renogy controller. Might just sell that one and pick one of these up. Love that little Lithium battery too. Amazingly light!
I like the thorough explanation Dan, you just make anything sound easy, Thanx man.😎🤝
Hey mate, great vid - worth noting as well you have the added advantage of much greater depth of discharge from the LiPo - usually 80-90% usage of your 50AH compared to ~50% from a standard AGM. LiPo certainly is a game chaner :)
Cheers from the U S.... Nice setup... you already know I went overboard on mine 😆👍
Great video and explanation. I have the same Renogy 30A controller with the Bluetooth module in my 2000 4runner paired with a 100Ah SOK LifePo4 battery and a Renogy 100 rigid panel. I really like this set up and can affirm how well it all works.
What do you think of the Renogy app for the Bluetooth? I just installed this system and the Renogy app that was available for Android looks nothing like what Dan showed and is mostly useless.
Hi Dan, looks like great easy set up. One item though from a safety standpoint. I believe the fuse the start battery is hooked up to should be as close to the starter battery as possible to protect from shorts anywhere along that line. The way it is now you are only protecting that short line between the fuse and the charge controller.
Hi Dan , let me start by saying I'm loving the gladiator Bild I did want to point out that the 40 amp fuse you have from the starter battery should be at the other end of your positive wire . Keep up the great work on your gladiator very professional work thanks for the video's . Steven.
Waw thank you for the good news that I had made a good choice just ordered the Bluetooth controller thank you
Nice unit! I choose victron for my systems. Also because I have a 24volt truck and 12volt camper setup. So my DC-DC is 24-12/30A and seperate 75/15 solar controller. the advantage is when I upgrade my solar panels I just swap the controller to something bigger. So my idea is just upgrade the unit when I have more need in the future. My inverter is just a small one and I also have a bigger inverter of 800 watt for my water cooker.
Another great video Dan! Makes me want to finish rewiring my trailer. LoL
Cheers man!
Great choice. In addition, you can use about 90% of Amp/h from your lithium, vs about 60-70% of AGM. Or 50% of acid lead. So half the weight, and almost twice the useable power. 👍🏻
Hi Dan, your choice it’s perfect very nice set up but there should be a fuse between main battery from positive terminal+ in front your Jeep , l know all line from battery it’s very well protected but just in case. I travel in Australia 30 years also in very simple dual battery system and never let me down. Have a nice day.
@27:19 "...and that's how much it's currently putting into the house battery." I see what you did there. Well played.
I have that same charge controller and it works great. The mistake I made in my dual battery setup is going with an AGM battery. Far too heavy. We just got back from a 3 week trip in the desert and even on 100 degree days we did not use more than 20 AH per day running a Dometic fridge and a few led lights. Thanks for the video. I’m enjoying your build.
Hi can you tell me what model charge controller it is
That last three or four minutes was very helpful. I generally believe that you get what you pay for, so if this system is so much less than say…Redarc, what am I not getting? I’ve been wrestling with whether I want an under hood dual battery, or a “solar generator” or what path to take. Very helpful. Thank you.
Nice simple setup Dan. I like it a lot, although I prefer 100amp lithium just in case it pours rain for 3 days I’ve still got power
50Ah for three years in Africa was perfect for me needs, so I'm confident it will be this time around too!
Hi Dan, cool videos! I would say you need to revisit sizing your wires, they look skinny for 30A!
I like the diverse systems approach for redundancy.
If you had a lot of free energy, it'd be nice to pressurize the cabin to keep out dust and control climate.
Dan, great video but the Gladiator being a new vehicle comes with what we call here in USA an Smart Alternator meaning that the alternator will vary the amount of current delivered to the start battery depending of the charge it has so that way the vehicle saves gas mileage and the alternator is not working that hard all the time, so with that in mind, you have to connect the cable that goes to the ignition input into the Renogy and pick something in the fuse box of the gladiator that doesn't work when is off... that way the Dc to Dc charger will sense the voltage drop and adjust accordingly the amount of current to the house battery...😉
From what I can gather, the alternator is not "smart" like the Euro ones - it can turn on and off dynamically, but that's about it. So I think of it as "half-smart"
As soon as the alternator turns on, the charge controller sense that and kicks in and puts load on the alternator, which will keep the alternator on until the charge controller is don (battery full).
So I actually don't need to run that other 12v trigger wire you mentioned, it functions perfectly without it.
Thanks for this video. The best I have seen for my gladiator. I am going to copy your setup exactly. When are you coming to Arizona?
I'm aiming to be at Overland Expo in May of 2023. I'll be here exploring until then!
Great video, thank you so much for the information! On the inverter topic, I see where you are coming from and not having one may be the right choice for you but having one for versatility sake might also not be a bad idea. I had an extra one, quite small, and it is located under a seat in my pickup. I use it rarely but it does see occasional use.
The list of things I could bring on my expeditions that *might* get *occasional* use is literally endless. Three years on the road in Africa!
.. but of course, there is no space, payload or budget for such things, so I cull those "optional" items.
@@TheRoadChoseMe great videos and just so inspiring, thx so much. Quick question, I'm quite ignorant when it comes to this stuff. Apologies. But do you not need AC power to use USB chargers, if not how does that work? Thanks, and apologies if I missed something.
USB chargers can be wired directly from 12V - I'm actually about to start on that soon, and I'll do a video about it specifically.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Totally understandable. I'm not yet into any kind of overlanding and the space and weight is not presently a concern. I have big ideas for my pickup though and when I start to act on them I'll share what I'm doing.
Fantastic video. I've watched several times. This setup anchors everything to the truck though. What would I need to enclose the battery/charger in a removable box so it can be easily severed from the alternator and taken out?
I have the same setup in my Wrangler! It surprised me that my 100W solar panel also keeps my starter battery charged when I park my car for a long time.
Definitely fuse both ends of the main cable also I found blade fuses get hot with constant current draw [mine melted into a blob] running a fridge.I went with circuit breaker fuses recommended by a auto electrician.He told me he had seen fires caused by blade fuses under constant current draw with the recommended amperage.
Great video! I am learning a lot today. Quick question for you, what if you just buy a power station such as the Bluetti EB70 or something? What's the advantages and disadvantages of your set up vs just using a power station? Thanks!
Hi Dan. Greetings from Melbourne and looking foward to your Aussie tour. Do you have another fuse at the main battery for the 50 amp cable that feeds the DC ro DC charger. It is good practive to have a fuse at both ends of that cable in case of a short part way along.
I did consider the Renogy 50A DC to DC MPPT unit but it doesn't have a Low Temperature cut off to protect Lifepo4 in cold conditions. Plus the voltage input is limited which means you cant use larger wattage solar panels. You can only use 6x 100w panels maximum. If Renogy get their act together and design this with a higher wattage solar input they will easily triple their sales. Then I would certainly change my new MPPT to a Renogy DC to DC charge controller. The new version really needs to be 60 amps (minimum 40 amps from solar) and the voltage needs to 100v minimum.
Great video. How did you attach everything behind the rear seat?
Hi Dan am liking the videos have the 50A DC/DC Renogy and mine has to have a wire that is connected to a ignition wire for the smart alternator does the 30A model not have that ?
Dan, can’t recommend highly enough to use marine grade shrink wrap fittings. The shrink wrap reduces how vibration affects the strands in the crimp over time.
I won’t use anything else on commercial truck fleet.
I wish I bamp onto Dan on the streets of Kampala UG the next time he's back😄🙋🏻♂️
I didn't catch it in the vid- what charge controller is that? I was on the Renogy site, and I didn't see it. That is a CLEAN install!!
It's the DCC30S 12V 30A Dual Input DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT
Hi Dan, Awesome video as always :). Out of curiosity what fridge model and size are you going to use with that 50ah LIFEPO4 battery?
Dometic 55IM
Hey Dan,
Does the battery itself measure outgoing current aswell as incoming? I'm trying to work out how the battery measures it's own capacity if it only measures incoming current and voltage. I know smart shunts masure ingoing and outgoing but not sure about Renogy's internal BMS.
Great video mate. Does the Jeep have a heavy duty alternator to run this set up? I also own a Jeep and I am always worried about messing with the electronics in it as it is quiet complex system. I really like the simplicity of your system and definitely look in to installing something similar.
Yep, 240Amp ungraded alternator from factory.
Yay!
Another good thing about DC/DC chargers is the lithium battery can accept a charge at such a high rate that it can cause your alternator to fail trying to keep up. So a DC/DC charger prevents that as well.
And I have the up-rated 240Amp alternator, which is great!
This is awesome. I was about to pull the trigger on a genesis dual battery system, but it honestly comes out to almost the same price after adding a battery and an MPPT to that. This is a much better option for my jeep. Thanks for the thorough video!
One question; did you size your fuses based on the max current rating of the charger, or the max charge current of your house battery?
Glad it was helpful!
The big fuses are sized for the max current the charger can pull from the Alternator (30A in my case) and the max current the charger can push into the house battery (30A in my case). I don't even know if the battery can take more than 30A charge current (I suspect so).
Dan nice vid. your discount code doesn't work for the Australian store, is it only for the US?
Sorry Dave, yes, it's only for the US store
Welcome to Australia buddy bout bloody time love to follow ya show mate looking forward to it , a JEEP in our out back hmm be hard to get parts 4 it mate only way to adapt to our out back is to get a landcruiser mate they helped build this country it's not America our jeeps here only take kids to school and the shopping centres 🤣
Hi Dan great video, just one question, what did you do with the ignition wire did you tap into your fuse box?
I didn't wire up the ignition wire - the Alternator in the Jeep is not "smart" enough to require it.
Dan - I'm looking at this Renogy controller and the specs sheet says "Maximum Charging Current : 30A (15A Alternator / 15A PV) ", does this match your experience? Have you tried hooking up solar yet? I noticed it was showing 25A or so on your phone, but this makes it sound like it's a 15A total if you had no solar hooked up.
I was going to say if you're pulling 30A from the alternator, you should use larger than 6mm2 wire. It may not overheat and melt, but it will heat up, and limit the amount of power you can draw. I'd suggest a 10-15mm2, and I would also eliminate the extra ground run back to the front, since you can ground the aux battery and charger to the chassis.
As others have said, that fuse needs to be at your alternator/starter battery, not back on the bulkhead by the charger. It's not protecting anything there.
Thank you for sharing your set-up, it looks really handy and I think it will do a good job at keeping your LFP battery safely charged.
The charger can pull 30A in total. So with no solar, that is 30A from the alternator.
With Solar, it will prioritize solar to a max of 15A, and get the other 15A from the alternator, which is great because it means you pull free power from the sun rather than load up the alternator.
One thing I didn't hear (unless I missed it) with the move to Lithium battery is that it really is superior for AH's versus the old Optima. Even with similar AH total ratings, you can't depleat the AGM all the way like you can for the lithium. So really even though the new battery is 50ah, when compared to the old Optima it's nearly double the output. Also charge cycles and charge rates being so much more superior.
When I replace my system, I'm seriously considering going this route. This was a smart move.
Absolutely spot on! I did so much rambling in this video I forgot to even mention that, but that sure is right.
I feel like this is far superior to my old setup in every way.
@@TheRoadChoseMe - To add, the smaller package size is great to allow a move into the interior. All wins in my book. Interested to see how well it does long term. No better test than what you are doing!
Quick question Dan, for an Africa expedition where I am mainly using the battery to power a fridge (in an ancient Land Rover by the way), would you recommend a basic 12 volt system where I could replace items with whatever is availably locally, or go for a more efficient modern lithium setup with DC-DC? The vehicle has been upgraded from the standard 34A (yes, thirty-four) to an aftermarket 175A alternator, because it could hardly keep up with headlamps, a heater and wipers!
My very basic system worked well for my Africa trip, though these days the much more modern DC-DC charger and Lithium battery is much better.
You'll be able to get those modern parts in South Africa and Namibia.. so if your trip loops through there you could get parts if you need them.
Awesome mate, simple & in budget, do you recon we need to put fuse on the main battery end as well.
Based on all the comments, yes, that sounds like a very good idea!
@@TheRoadChoseMe how much it costed u altogether for the battery setup. I was looking for dc to dc but redarc was soo expensive i dont wanna spend that much as i am not frequent traveller. I just need to keep it simple like yours.
Have a look on the Renogy store to see what meets you needs - it will depend on the battery you want, the size of charger (30A or 50A) and the size and type of solar panel you want and can fit on your vehicle.
Booooo I can only give you video one thumbs up...... I'd give it three👍👍👍
Great data from a low cost device
Hi Dan. What do you think about all in one power stations like Jackery? Are they suitable for long term travelling?
Jack of all trades, master of none. For a long term trip, I would never consider such a setup.
Hi Dan. Thanks very much for the videos - they've been fantastic. I've ordered the equipment I'll need from Renogy Canada but your discount code did not work with them. I'm not sure if that has any impact on your commission but I thought I'd give you a heads up. Cheers
Thanks Ed - I've been told the code is only for the USA store, no worries.
Enjoy that Renogy gear, I'm super happy with mine.
21st century for sure. Question: how’s the MPPT treating your acid or gel starter batt if it’s not Lithium. Would both batteries need to be the same type to avoid damage or is the contrôler switching to the correct battery type between the 2 ? Thanks
It only trickle charges the starter, so it's not a problem.
I bought the same Renogy and with all installed, I then download Renogy BT and the screen is completely different than what you are showing in the video, can you tell me please what app did you download to monitor the system, thanks a lot. Or maybe your phone is apple?
Im sure lithium will quickly replace the standard lead-acid were all used to at least as long as that cost barrier drops which I'm sure eventually it will
Dan, how to protect that battery from the elements such as floding from a water crossing or someone spilling a drink in your backseat?
Hi Dan!
I have noticed you did not wired the ignition wire. I did follow your setup instructions but alternator is not charging and light did not on but solar is charging. Do I have to wire ignition wire?
Thanks
It depends if you have a smart alternator or an old-school one.
I didn't need to run any additional wire in the gladiator, just going straight to the +12 on the battery was enough.
Remember, it has a 20 second delays before charging off the alternator, so make sure you run the engine for at least that long before you determine it's not charging. Check the app on your phone to see what it's doing.
I love the ability to use the solar panel to act as a trickle charger for the starter battery when the vehicle is off for a few days, but I’m not a fan of the extra load on the alternator to charge the auxiliary battery when the vehicle is turned on. Is there any work around for that?
If you don't want to use your alternator to charge your house battery, then just use a solar charge controller and not a DC-DC one.
It will work, but I doubt you'll get enough charge in the long term unless you have a ton of panels and not much load.
Good video Dan! You sold me on it, however your discount code is not working in the Renogy Canadian Webstore. I will try again tomorrow. Cheers!
Hi Dan, I think the code only works on the US store unfortunately. Sorry about that.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Ahh, makes sense. Either way I sent an inquiry maybe they'll honor the 10% another way. BTW, weren't you.. ahem "Canadian"
I am Canadian, yes!
Your Renogy discount code doesn't appear to work in the Australian Renogy store. Is it limited to the US only?
I think it's US only, sorry about that
@@TheRoadChoseMe Thanks for the response, unfortunate for us followers here in AUS. Keeps us posted if Renogy AUS wants to come to the party.
Also, in the users manual said that with Lithiun Iron Phosphate DO NOT USE THE BATTERY TEMPERATURE PROBE...!
Are you gonna meet with GryzlynBear? They're also currently starting out in Australia and I think a collaboration between you two would be cool!
Yep! We've been in touch for a while now!
How much heat does the charger produce inside the cab? Anything noticeable on top of a hot Australian day?
Compared to the hot Aussie sun, it's virtually nothing.
you didn't mention this specifically, I'm curious why you went with this approach instead of getting an all in one style unit (Eg, Jackery 1000).
seems like that would be a very easy way to do it and looks like it would be even cheaper.
if you have weighed the pros and cons elsewhere sorry.
cheers!
🤔 What you called the „house battery“ we call it the „utility“ or „comfort“ or „bord“ battery in that secondary system.
Actually I have a completely another kind of question do you have in Australia any snorkel for a 3.0 diesel or at least something comes in the left side which is your passenger side of the engine?
Because I had a lot of troubles to find something over here in United States in Texas to be more specific to the point I have to build my own DIY PVC snorkel it works but it doesn't look
There is no 3.0 diesel in Australia in the Gladiator or Wrangler, so there is no snorkel for it.
So do you have three batteries now? When you refer to the cranking battery, are you referring to the small one beneath the main battery?
Technically I have three, though I'm ignoring the little one and basically treating that whole system under the hood as the "starting battery".
@@TheRoadChoseMe the reason I asked was I wondered if your connection may cause issues as the two existing batteries are independently controlled also. But if it’s all working with our issue then great! Keep up the good work.
My connection doesn't change anything - it's just an extra load on the alternator, really simple.
His sytem does make sense keep it as simple as possible but the thing i hate about these kinds of videos is that they get you only part way there. OK TRCM where do you pug your devices in? Ps. I don't know anything about electricity
I will be doing future videos about how I wire up all the accessories, but I showed the big fuse block where I ran wires to the fridge, etc.
Essentially, you just run a red and black wire from there and you have 6 separate fused circuits for whatever you want to use.
Dan, love you’re point about not using an inverter but…
Maybe this is a dumb question but I’ve never seen a laptop that plugs into 12v or a USB.
What am I missing?
All the new macbooks charge from USB directly, and I got a DC step up converter for mine so it can charge straight off 12v, no problem. I used it for all of Africa, it was perfect.
You need to “link that (step up converter) in the description” please. 😬
You obviously are a jeep fan, I'd like like to know your thoughts on Toyota, they are the preferred option of ngo's and others, and in Africa and around the world there's an aboundence of parts suppliers and knowledge on these vehicles
Absolutely, in many parts of Africa they outnumber every other 4x4 combined. No doubt about it.
I was going to use Lithium batteries. However, I was told that they don't handle the high heat we get in New Mexico.
Is the renergy gear made in Australia?
No. Renogy rebrands products from China
Dan, you're using the solar charge controller essentially as a negative bus bar for the entire system, correct? Are there instances where this wouldn't be a good idea? Are there any other components that can be used this way? I'm trying to save money on a bus bar:-)
Yep - all the negatives of everything just connect together at the charge controller. No downsides, other than you might run out of room to connect all the terminals on there. So far so good for me.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Thanks mate! If a negative bus bar is used, does it need to have a certain amp rating? I can't get a straight answer after a long google search. Hoping you'll know:-)
It will need the amp rating of everything you connect to it combined.
Can someone explain why he doesn't have an inverter. I'm new to this and bought a 1000w pure sine inverter, is that a good idea?
I really don't like inverters. They're heavy, take up space, noisy and inefficient.
I make everything run directly from 12v so I simply don't need one.
I'm very much a "keep it simple" person, and if I don't need one, then I don't want to bring it.
Can I use this system somehow to jump start myself if my starting battery goes dead? Or do I have to just use a jumper cable?
You would need a jumper cable, and I'm not sure if the Li battery is rated for that, you would have to check.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Do you carry one of those portable battery jump starters then? Or what