Charging Blocks & Lights for Overlanding
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2021
- I work on dedicated charging blocks to install in my Overland Jeep Gladiator, and install a couple of handy lights so I can see what I'm doing
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#JeepGladiator #Overland #lightforce - Навчання та стиль
Great job. Totally agree with the lighter plug being fragile. The only reason these are around is because vehicles used to have … well… ”cigarette lighters”! They’re the worst design and unsafe ! I don’t know if any other electrical device you can simply jam your fingers in them and get a shock 😂. Keep those vids coming and hope your trip is possible soon after the lockdown
Such a clean installation. OIIIIIIIO
Enjoying your alternative approach to the build., very practical focused.
Nice video again Dan. I really like the usefulness of those junction boxes.
These fiddly details are super interesting.
Really enjoying this video series that you have put together! Keep up the great work!
Nice neat job. Looks good. When u do your own 12v work it makes it so much easier troubleshooting issues u mght have later.
We think alike on this one.
I built a very similar charging box for the bed of my Tacoma and it's even in almost the same location.
I built a bracket so mine faces the back of the truck instead of sideways. Behind that I tucked in my ARB compressor and my charging box includes the switch for that, and under the box I mounted an air hose quick connect. I also managed to squeeze in a little LED voltage indicator.
Just a couple of inches from that is my fridge slide so all that takes almost no room.
Just last weekend I finished a job to bring 12V to the rear of my Ram Power Wagon bed. I did a little different. I didn't use a junction box. I used the structure of the rear stake pocket as the box rather than a separately mounted box. I drilled directly into the sheet metal for 3 x 12V sockets mounted vertically. The 3 of them are daisy chained from behind / inside the stake pocket area. I was able to remove my rear tail light and secure them in place and make daisy connection from there. The added benefit is the sockets face forward to toward the front of the bed so when something is plugged in it does not stick out where it can get bumped or get in the way. I have enough room to add more there if I want, or I can switch a socket out for a voltage indicator or USB socket, or whatever. It's right near my fridge slide as well.
Been following since your Africa trip. Love your simple and effective ideas. Also love that you are doing your expeditions in a Jeep. I've been lucky enough to travel WA, SA, and NT in a JKU diesel in 2017 that was setup on a budget and slept in a swag. Hope you get over to my home state of WA soon as we have a lot to explore and currently no lockdowns (hopefully stays that way).
I'm *really* looking forward to exploring all over WA!
Hello Dan, We are on the loop as well durring this 2 years of Covid lockdowns around Australia and since we came from Greece with our vehicle we learned to go with the flow. Do not let lockdowns stop you or delay you. As soon as Victoria opens start your trip and sky is the limit for Australia you might need to drive a longer loop but that is the reason we love overlanding. "Traveling with no plans" Happy roads and hope our paths cross!!
Kinda hard to not let covid delay you 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Yay!
Hi Dan, I think it would be a nice feature to use a switch that activates when you open the cabinet. You can never have too much light. Even on a bright sunny day shadows will be cast inside the cabinet.
Great video
A word of experience from my last vehicle, I installed a bunch of USB/USB-C/ciggy charge points around the vehicle & only ever used the factory 12v point in the dash & an extra double USB I installed next to it. Both wired to the auxiliary so no danger of draining the start battery. Only put in what you really need & save yourself the hassle of wiring all over your vehicle was the lesson learned 😀
I think Dan might have a reasonable idea of how any charging ports he does and doesn't need, I'm pretty sure it's not his first trip!
@@jasper287 More of a general comment for anyone who looks, rather than for Dan as he clearly lists what he needs 👍
Box behind drivers seat is brilliant idea
Dan, have you thought about heat for the devices in the locked box charging? Do you have vent holes?
Nice job Dan, but, I would like to see how did you pass the wires from the cabin to the cargo area. Did you find some kind of grommets in order to pass the wires and keep the isolation._
That's a detail I would be interested in seeing as well.
😎👍
Nicely done and well thought out installation!
Dan, I was wondering if you have kept tabs on the Jeep you sold in South America?
Thanks! I have not, and I was thinking about it the other day. Maybe I should send an email to the guy I sold it to and see if he's still around!
@@TheRoadChoseMe hey mate any chance I could pm you about your dc to dc install
Yep, Patreon is the best way to get me for a one on one - www.patreon.com/theroadchoseme
Nice job on the light installation on the cabinet. Won't the lower cabinet need its own light?
Great video :) Why did you put the charing block as far in as possible, why dont you keep it close to the door so you easier can plug in the USB ports etc?
You can never have to many lights and charging ports 😉
Wouldn't it be handier to have the charging block (excellent design btw) closer to the door? You'll be fiddling with it a lot, and now you have to reach over cameras and stuff to get to it.
Have you ever thought of using Anderson Power Poles for things like your refrigerator to ensure a better and more reliable connection?
Not really, I find them too big and bulky. I'll wire the fridge in directly, no need for a connector at all.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The std grey Anderson plugs are for bigger loads, up to 50A. A fridge runs about 4A, so they are overkill. Get some Deutsch Plugs for this type of load. You can get smaller ones for up to 13A and the next size up for up to 25A. They look professional and once you buy the install tool/pliers they are easy to assemble. Only get the genuine plugs though.
Or even cheaper, simpler and lighter - no plugs at all when I don't need them!
@@TheRoadChoseMe The 30A Andersons are pretty compact but if you're hard wiring then you're good to go anyway.
what chargwer do u use to charge your MacBook and where did u get it
Where did you get the device to charge your Mac laptop from 12 volts? I think you said it steps it up to 19 volts. I would like to figure out how to charge a Mac directly from 12 volt. Thanks!
Do you not have to reach/crawl in to deep into the cabinet to plug into the new charge block? Would it have not been better more ergonomic to be closer to the door?
PS, loving this build. New sub right here.
Hi Dan - What have you done for fusing?
I have a fuse block below the charge controller, 6 separate fused circuits.
So you made your own laptop charger. Seems like there's a real gap in the market for this product.
no anderson plugs and usb-c? surprising.
Why does he need a ando plugs?
@@jasper287 better for solar, fridge.. aren’t they?
@@roguetrail unless your useing over 30amps there are many better and easier connections available, ppl here in Australia are just can't see the light
3+2.4= 5.4 (that’s one double USB outlet)
5.4 x 4 = 21.6 (that’s all four doubles. 8 !total.)
If all 8 of the USBs are in use with loads drawing at capacity, that will easily trip 15A fuse. (Even six could draw 16.2A)
Did you consider running a couple of circuits out of the fuse block?
Be a real pain if you keep tripping the fuse when you charge 6/7/8 thjngs at once!
Have you ever tested what these outlets actually pull I'm yet to come across one that actually pulls there rated output
@ jason. Usb’s are 5V, so load draws max. 21,6A*5V=108W => they are supplied by 12V, so 108W/12V=9A. If Mac charger is 60W => 60W/12V=5A => 9A+5A=14A, so 15A fuse will do just fine👍
@@jak12121 yes! Delivering @5.1v not @12v. Quite right. My brain freeze!