@@ItsBigTexYall marble is really porous and expensive, laminate is cheap and paint will wipe right off…it’s an important distinction. I’m not taping off laminate either lol.
My wife and I just did this to our kitchen. Her dad built us new oak drawer fronts and doors and we sanded, primed and sanded between coats. Using an enamel paint. Took a lot of time to do but came out awesome! Did a nice blue on the lowers and bright white on the uppers.
Insul X has both the bonding primer and Cabinet Coat both which are manufactured by Benjamin Moore. The Insul x primer is one of the best on the market.
I love this old house but this video is definitely geared towards home owners. If you have a sprayer it definitely helps with a high quality finish. We use a primer like zinzer cover stain or an oil based primer then cover with Sherwin Williams Pro classic with alkyd or PPG Breakthrough for final coats but ask your paint store about cabinet grade paint. They will know what works best.
Thank You Very Much for this video. i always wanted to paint my kitchen cabinets. but i realy did not know how to. i have watch this old house and ask this old house on pbs and mpbs right from the very first show. all of you are Awesome! :)
I'll be doing a light (current home, future rental) remodel on my bathrooms. Just stopping by to see what painting one of these cheap oak cabinets entrails. Looks pretty easy fellas. Thanks for sharing.
Shellac and Oil-Based Primers are superior. If you find bleed through after your water-based paint job, you can go over with Shellac Primer and repaint. Worked well for me.
This may be true for a new build/raw wood. But this wood has already been sealed for years and probably a very thick coat of seal considering the look of them once they scuffed them. Any primer will do. And if refinishing cabinets, a water based is best because it’s in your kitchen. An oil based would stink the whole house up for days to weeks.
@@remodz6385 everything you said is false lol. You need a shellac to seal up tannin bleed or it will never cover. I BIN every set of cabinets i do and it stinks only for a few hours, not days or weeks lol. Any primer WILL NOT WORK
Great job guys…looks great…I am getting ready to do my cabinets…I know it will not be easy…clean…sand prep…but it will be worth it to do it the right way. That golden oak has just got to go…I have a simular countertop…so this helps a lot…love the color.
Buy yourself a corded random orbit sander to do 90% of the work And if u got the budget Wagner flexio spray painter You’ll get a 95% quality factory finish. Prob even better than the cheapo finished cabinets at Home Depot and IKEA
@@dylan-nguyen I disagree. The stock cabinets they have at Lowe’s are really good for the price. You’ll never even get close to the finish if you attempt to repaint your old cabinets.
Just watched the first fee minutes...how do you prepare the sides which are usually laminate? Do you sand laminate as well? Not sure if that's addressed here. Thanks
Planning to do this as well. Same principal applies for particleboard laminate cabinet cases? Doors are maple shakers but cabinet box is a laminated particle board
I recommend X.I.M primer from dunn edwards it's 50 bucks a gallon but it hold perfectly. As far as paint goes I have had very bad luck with Behrs Alkyd that they used scratched up real easy even with primer.
They're sponsored by HD so that's why they likely picked Behr. I think the take away here is that you need an alkyd paint if you want low VOC, are diy, and looking to avoid oil based products (as most diy folks typically do). Benjamin Moore Advanced would have been my pick.
@@dmondra2 I believe the reason for Behr is because it comes from a "dyi" store. Most people who diy don't really go to paint stores they go to the big box stores.
Excellent video. The people who owned our house before us painted the kitchen cabinets. They did not follow Mauro's steps. More painting videos please.
Dunn Edwards BLOCK-IT PREMIUM for the primer and Dunn Edwards ARISTOSHIELD for the paint. If you own a house you can afford a HOMERIGHT FINISH MAX SPRAYER so now you can spray those cabinets, they are only around one hundred bucks.
I can't help but feel like some time in this video would've been a great time to make a "happy little accidents" reference. Still, we're going to be painting our cabinets, so this video helped. Thanks!
I’m sure that I am chiming in on the same thing others have mentioned. It doesn’t look like anything was done to hide the grain, yet I didn’t really see any grain after painting.
This Old House has always been an entertainment program. It has never been a how-to program. So I've been entertained by the pros dissing the job that Mauro and Kevin have done. Like : Man, I'd get fired if I did a job like that. I'd use a sprayer... I'd do this and that. The reality is that a handy homeowner would never hire a pro to do this small a job ( 10ft of cabs or so). I am such a homeowner that has painted dozens of feet of my own cabs in 5 homes. This is basically how I did them. No spraying, and certainly no pore filling. And as for the people whining about what brand of this or that, or how do I buy a brush or roller, you are not ready for this job yet. Go buy some cabs for the garage and practice on those. A 20 minute video is not going to teach you how to paint. Painting a few is going to teach you how to paint. As for me, I was satified with the video. First, it is free. Second, it was entertaining. Third, I did not need to learn anything from it.
Ah, okay. I was wondering why they didn't use a sprayer. I was wondering if this video would help me touch up my cabinets, which were sprayed. And now I know, the answer is no, LOL.
True, no homeowner will be able to master the technique of spraying the cabinets for just his one kitchen project. But I have seen the painter we use for our home improvement business use a Benjamin Moore product called Cabinet Coat that brushed on and smoothed out into a spray look finish.
You absolutely do not need to spray to get a professional look but you do need more prep than This Old House video. This is a must watch where a true professional will explain the different primers, paints and technique to use in order to get a perfectly smooth finish: ua-cam.com/video/0kKDbutQbtc/v-deo.html
I've worked at the paint store and have done this exact job multiple times. be sure to do your research and make sure the job is done properly. People tend to overlook and not be prepared.
I hope I get a response. In materials it says 4 inch roller sleeves, high density. Then at the end of list it states Mister Rui Paint Rollers 4 inch polyamide. Is one for the primer and one for the paint? It doesn't indicate why two different types. Thank you in advance.
@@Off-Grid 1/4" nap the best for painting cabinets and any other project? I'm almost feeling hesitant in redoing my kitchen cabinets bc I want to do them right...this time. It's been about 4 to 5 yrs since they were painted. My husband chose the color that is on the cabinets now. We don't have a big kitchen. The walls are a salmon color; whereas the cabinets are a tad darker than a cream color, and with new flooring in our future, those current colors will make the kitchen look even smaller. I've rushed through many painting jobs, that is inside my own house, and I, like I mentioned, really want to do these cabinets slowly and to the point that I am satisfied. Help me to not feel hesitant and worried that I'll mess something up.
I'd highly recommend a high bond primer, if going over any sort of clear finish. Also be very careful and consistent with your brush and roller strokes, texture is very important on something like a cabinet. Also no satin in a kitchen, it attracts too much oil and dirt.
@@ryane6719 maybe for a clear finish, satin paint on a high wear surface will attract more dirt than a semi gloss, as will a semi gloss more than a gloss. If that is what you want for your own home sure, but I manage apartments, satin would not last an acceptable amount of time.
As a painter of 42 years, and watching this gentleman on TOH for awhile. I can tell you, Mauro still has a lot of learning to do. That will come with time.
I'm confused...In the notes there is a link to INSL-X Cabinet Coat Enamel paint which is really good stuff, yet at 4:00 he breaks out the Behr paint. Ugg.. what's up with that?
I painted my 50yr old cabinets after stripping and sanding but the only prob I had was the paint cracked at the hinge location. Behr latex..same primer
Behr is the problem! It's a horrible paint! You need a better quality paint and primer. I have been painting for 25 years. Everytime I have used Behr it comes out horrible.
I used this paint with a 1/4" nap roller as instructed. Still left orange peel/roller texture as the paint does not self level. Noticed that you tipped the larger areas.
@@michaelmcgee2026 I've tried various foam covers and went back to the flock 1/4". May try mohair but suspect that the paint needs thinning as it skins over before leveling. Spraying is no different; thinning is required even if your sprayer is powerful enough to not need it.
So there is a couple of reason you have orange pill ,1st you put it on to tick second the paint is too thick you need to thin it down or the pain is drying to fast and doesn’t have time to flow there is a lot of Self-leveling paint out there you can use. you can’t just use a regular wall paint ,you need to use a high end trim or cabinet paint. don’t try to do it in one or two coats we usually do 3-4 coats but very thin. By the way in this video they forgot to send the primer you always send the primer. And I guess the reason they did not spray it because homeowner does not have the money to buy a professional sprayer the one you can rent in Home Depot or Lowes are not meant to be spraying fine finish on furniture‘s those are meant to be do painting fence, houses etc.
One more question...I notice that after rolling the paint on you use a paint brush. May I ask why? I've always just used the roller. I'm learning as a home owner to be a diy'selfer! Thank you!
It’s a personal preference- brush strokes in the direction of the wood resembles wood grain, vs a roller that has a roller texture. Many people, myself included, prefer a light brush stroke. But yes, an airless sprayer is also a good route.
@@cpassehl I'm one who doesn't like brush strokes in past experience. A homeowner who is a diy'selfer have been for many yrs. Just want to do it right this time.
We call it laying it down, so you don't want the roller stubble look, if you have quality paint you roll it on and then you lay it down with a brush very easy, the paint should not show any brush marks, good quality paint is the key
If your doing a large project...like kitchen cabinets...I would do the cabinet shelves with brush and then hire someone to air spray the cabinet fronts...don't try to buy an air sprayer from the large chains...they clog and don't work well...hire someone! I learned the hard way! Make sure you prep the cabinet fronts properly first...I used liquid sandpaper and a stiff brush...worked great.
@ 4:02 do you have to paint this slowly? Slow motion? Or is this a badly chosen video effect? Great video nevertheless as planning to do this job soon.
Behr paint and primer covers well. Had a friend who had her house painted twice by two different contractors and two years later the paint started fading and peeling. The difference was spray and roll
You spray cabinets and roll walls. Not the other way around. Paint sprayed on walls has to be thinned down a lot to get it to spray and it just soak into the drywall and texturing. If you have ever tried to wipe off a mark from a sprayed wall you would know that the paint just rubs off and you rub a hole into the texture on the wall. Cabinets on the other hand are smooth and need to be sprayed to not have brush strokes or roller marks.
Shouldn't scratch easily but that could be many different reasons. Didn't sand. Didn't use the right type of primer. Didn't use the right type of paint.
It's a really tough job to get right, cabinets take a beating people's fingernails constantly up against them when you go to reach for a knob or a handle if you don't take your time and you try to skip the sanding step you're going to have problems, it's a lot of money to have somebody come in and do it correctly obviously depending on how many cabinets you have
Don't let them lie to you. You definitely 100% need to use oil primer if you are not going back to bare wood. Even alkyd or urethane won't stick to a light scuff sanding. If it doesn't pass the fingernail test after 48 hours what do you think like it's going to look like in a year?
That's nonsense. Oil isn't necessary anymore. It also takes closer to 3-4 weeks to establish a true density. Guaranteed it passes the scratch test after a month. I've used Latex primer on every cabinet job I've ever done. If you follow the proper Prep methodology, you'll be fine 👍
@@TheRogueDeadGuy unless you're removing ALL sealing of the grain we will agree to disagree. Care to name your product? Most (like +90%) of paint reps will tell you, you have to strip the surface 100%. Many write directly on the can. I'd really like to know what you're using that isn't. I'm skeptical at best. True density? We are talking about adhesion.
@@SkebtikI like your thinking. I'm gonna do this but cause of money issues I can only afford a sander/ vacuum for the sander and the stuff these guys are using. Do you recommend the oil primer at least? Also does the oil primer have fumes?
Spraying is definitely better! But for those without a sprayer, brushing and rolling a urethane enamel (ben moore advance, sherwin emerald urethane) Gives a great finish still. Not the same but still exceptional if done well
A lot of people suggest spray painting, but I haven't seen many people showing how to do this in the home. It seems to me if one is not a professional painter, the investment into costs to do this would be daunting. Unless you are going to be spray painting a lot, you might as well buy new cabinets! Also, spray painting would require more than tape and a little newspaper to avoid over-spray depositing on the rest of the kitchen. Someone I know, having more money than most homeowners, hired someone to spray paint their cabinets. The painter took doors and drawer faces to a shop that was dedicated to spray painting, where the parts could be hung for painting. They brush painted the frames and sides in place in the home. For folks like me having a small kitchen and needing to do this job maybe once every 7-10 years, spray painting is just overkill.
You really need to tell more specifics in these videos. What type of roller? What type or brush? How about brand of paint used?do you brush it after roll? Come one
That upper panel on the front of that bathroom cabinet comes off as do the ones on the front of the kitchen base (or have tip-outs). Remove them!! Don't paint them in or you will regret it.
Same process if cabinets have a color on them already? Lightly sanding so the primer will adhere? I so don't like the idea of taking out my hand sander, again, to sand down the kitchen cabinets. Btw...great video as always!
@@kathymieczkowski4981 Sand only until you will have a dull look. Then you know the next coat will be able to stick on it and will not fall off as it would with the glossy look.
@@Dino_Buk Ty for responding to my concern...if using my electric hand sander, what grit would be best to use on the current paint of the cabinets? I'm pretty sure it's a satin finish.
I`m wanting to have a fireplace put in with gas logs. Wish you guys would come put it in for me ! I live in a small town, dont know who to do the work for me.
A question I have not found the answer to: Several professional painters (for outside) said primer should sit for 24 hours before you paint so it will 'cure'. The paint can says dry in an hour or so. I have some paint failing and not sure if it is bad paint or that I painted too soon after primer. (I would never use the primer + paint.) This Old House or even other painting videos have never addressed in any video the question of how long to wait .
So the previous answer is right follow manufacture recommendation. My experns is and I’ve been doing a lot kitchen cabinets is Different . I used multiple primers in my past oil primer, latex primer. I never had to wait more than a couple hours after after I applied it to start sending it down. if you put it on to thick it’s gonna take forever to dry . the primer usually goes on very thin and does not have to cover solid. You can use oil primer what you can send very easily and dryes very quickly there is also bonding primer if you have an item you want to paint but you’re not sure if they use latex or oil or polymer or polyurethane paint you can always just put a bonding primer on it very thin and then you can put anything on top of it even on the oil primer you can use a latex finish. Drying time : You always have to thinking about the condition where you priming it if it’s a lot of humidity it’s gonna take forever to dry no matter if it’s water or oil base. After you prime something and you able to touch it without getting paint on your hand you can put it outside on the sun and let it bake for 30 minutes or an hour it’s kind of like the way they do it in a Commercial settings where they put it in the oven.
Thanks for the reply and that seems to cover inside painting. Several outside painters told me to wait 24 hours after priming for it to cure (oil and latex primer). Just because it is dry to the touch they claim it still needs time. Have any of your pro-painters heard of that?
What you want to look for is the recoat time. It could say dry to the touch in two or four hours but the recoat time could be 12 or 16 hours. FYI it takes paints and primers weeks to cure.
Im confused. Are you rolling and then immediately brushing over what you rolled or are you rolling the first coat and brushing the second coat? Also, should you caulk between the panels and the rails and stiles frame the center panel? Finally, can you use spray primer in a can to speed up things? Thank you!
I believe they rolled the primer on larger surfaces, and then grabbed a brush for areas they couldn't get to with a roller. Maybe they also did a final wipe with a brush for consistent texture?
So you roll the paint on just to get the material on the cabinets and then you back brush or we call it laying it down with a really good quality brush that way you don't have the texture of a roller, so you can use a brush and a roller to put it on and then you lay it down with the brush very lightly and if you're using quality paint you shouldn't see any brush marks
Boat painters roll on the paint and then tip it off with a brush. The technique is known as "roll and tip". Look that up and you will find lots of help.
wont water based primer and paint peel? i was taught to use oil based on wood surfaces to adhere best not water based. i once dealt with water based on wood and it peeled so easy
I like that look, texture is very important on something like a cabinet. I'd prefer the natural wood grain to roller and brush strokes. Also not sure what you'd use to fill it, except a high build primer and sanding, I'd rather use a high bond primer, I suppose you could do both, one after the other, but that sounds like a lot of work.
@@Off-Grid it's not about it covering, it's about it getting scraped off and dinged up during normal use. Also I like the wood grain texture, which a standard one coat of primer, and one or two coats of paint will not cover up, apparently others may want to fill the grain, but I wouldn't trust a normal wood filler over urethane.
couldn't agree more. I'm a painting contractor of 16 years. I always use oil based primer then acrylic topcoat. I like to sand before and after priming then a sprayed finish also.
The original laquer finish is holding back any possible tanning issue. Bonding latex is fine in this application. I would only brush here to avoid any roller texture in both the primer and finish. I'm sure a close up video would reveal some sloppyness as the paint started to set up before back brushing.
@@Fattony6666 It may work fine but using an oil based or shellac based primer is much more durable then what any water based primer can give you. So for something you'll only want to do once, I'd go with the better working product for this particular job. An acrylic latex paint is fine on top of either primer but I'd suggest an enamel top coat, especially for something that will see daily use as it cures very hard and can stand up to abuse much better. Prep work is key to success for either product though.
Its hard to find any one cleaner that will get cabinets all the way clean. There are sometimes a variety of different oils and stains on them. I have found denatured alcohol works pretty well though.
1:45 thank you for covering up the type of cleaner you are using. Just let the audience guess and use trial by error when could have saved us hours and hours of experimentation.
Every time they were painting right up against the marble without masking it off my heart skipped a few beats 😂
You obviously dont know how to paint...
thats not marble. its laminate
@@ItsBigTexYall lol no
@@ItsBigTexYall marble is really porous and expensive, laminate is cheap and paint will wipe right off…it’s an important distinction. I’m not taping off laminate either lol.
My wife and I just did this to our kitchen. Her dad built us new oak drawer fronts and doors and we sanded, primed and sanded between coats. Using an enamel paint. Took a lot of time to do but came out awesome! Did a nice blue on the lowers and bright white on the uppers.
The slo-mo out of focus shots remind me of Martha Stewart cooking shows from twenty years ago. Thanks for the nostalgia.
Thank you. I just watched a handful of tutorials and this one was by far the easiest to follow and understand.
Mauro is what I call A Master Painter.
Insul X has both the bonding primer and Cabinet Coat both which are manufactured by Benjamin Moore. The Insul x primer is one of the best on the market.
Just did the same project a few weeks ago myself, I degrease sanded but I used oil based primer and oil topcoat. Two coats each.
good choice.. a better-looking finish.
In my opinion oil is a much more durable paint. Plus I sprayed, no roller or brush.
@@scottyellis3442 Yep
@@anthonyszeto5508 Yep
@@scottyellis3442 spraying is better
Thanks for the advice and step by step guide, much appreciated!
Zinser Smart Prime and Benjamin Moore Advance are awesome products for kitchen cabinets.
BIN Shellac primer is my favorite for cabinet so far..
Haha he was so proud of how much he was cleaning off he kept showing his buddy
Slow mo shots of paint drying….very informative
The best video on painting cabinet thank you
I love this old house but this video is definitely geared towards home owners. If you have a sprayer it definitely helps with a high quality finish. We use a primer like zinzer cover stain or an oil based primer then cover with Sherwin Williams Pro classic with alkyd or PPG Breakthrough for final coats but ask your paint store about cabinet grade paint. They will know what works best.
Will behr marquee paint work on a cabinet?
@@soliloquys I wouldn't suggest it. Search some videos here in UA-cam for best Cabinet paints.
6
@@soliloquyshe is using behr cabinet paint which I think is great!!
Why did they go over the flat areas with a brush after rolling ????
Great video. And I think, “hmmm, I could do that.” 😊
Extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Thank You Very Much for this video. i always wanted to paint my kitchen cabinets. but i realy did not know how to. i have watch this old house and ask this old house on pbs and mpbs right from the very first show. all of you are Awesome! :)
I'll be doing a light (current home, future rental) remodel on my bathrooms. Just stopping by to see what painting one of these cheap oak cabinets entrails. Looks pretty easy fellas. Thanks for sharing.
Shellac and Oil-Based Primers are superior.
If you find bleed through after your water-based paint job, you can go over with Shellac Primer and repaint. Worked well for me.
Water based poly like Renner is superior.
This may be true for a new build/raw wood. But this wood has already been sealed for years and probably a very thick coat of seal considering the look of them once they scuffed them. Any primer will do. And if refinishing cabinets, a water based is best because it’s in your kitchen. An oil based would stink the whole house up for days to weeks.
@@remodz6385 everything you said is false lol. You need a shellac to seal up tannin bleed or it will never cover. I BIN every set of cabinets i do and it stinks only for a few hours, not days or weeks lol. Any primer WILL NOT WORK
I wish I could paint my cabinets up in the air like that
Well you could remove all the cabinets....
"Telekinesis is tacky."
oh no! You will have to bend a little. Are you going to be ok?
@@Fattony6666 probably not
You can. Just lift them up and set them on some stolen milk crates.
Great job guys…looks great…I am getting ready to do my cabinets…I know it will not be easy…clean…sand prep…but it will be worth it to do it the right way. That golden oak has just got to go…I have a simular countertop…so this helps a lot…love the color.
It won't be worth it. From maybe ten feet away, it looks good. If you're a foot away, it looks poorly executed.
Buy yourself a corded random orbit sander to do 90% of the work
And if u got the budget Wagner flexio spray painter
You’ll get a 95% quality factory finish. Prob even better than the cheapo finished cabinets at Home Depot and IKEA
@@dylan-nguyen I disagree. The stock cabinets they have at Lowe’s are really good for the price. You’ll never even get close to the finish if you attempt to repaint your old cabinets.
it looks good on video, but when finished are there brush stokes or brush marks on the doors?
I'd say yes.
Just watched the first fee minutes...how do you prepare the sides which are usually laminate? Do you sand laminate as well? Not sure if that's addressed here. Thanks
Planning to do this as well. Same principal applies for particleboard laminate cabinet cases? Doors are maple shakers but cabinet box is a laminated particle board
I recommend X.I.M primer from dunn edwards it's 50 bucks a gallon but it hold perfectly. As far as paint goes I have had very bad luck with Behrs Alkyd that they used scratched up real easy even with primer.
Behr is dog 💩
@@shanew7361 I mean I didn't wanna say it like that but yes. It sprays on great but rolls on horribly.
They're sponsored by HD so that's why they likely picked Behr. I think the take away here is that you need an alkyd paint if you want low VOC, are diy, and looking to avoid oil based products (as most diy folks typically do). Benjamin Moore Advanced would have been my pick.
@@dmondra2 I believe the reason for Behr is because it comes from a "dyi" store. Most people who diy don't really go to paint stores they go to the big box stores.
XIM UMA is hands down the best acrylic bond coat made.
Excellent video. The people who owned our house before us painted the kitchen cabinets. They did not follow Mauro's steps. More painting videos please.
What was noticeable about the previous home owners paint job?
Razor blade and done
Thank you, great video
I am definitely not going to paint my cabinets, lol 🙃 😅
Super Job. Do you have to fill the wood grain first ???
Dunn Edwards BLOCK-IT PREMIUM for the primer and Dunn Edwards ARISTOSHIELD for the paint. If you own a house you can afford a HOMERIGHT FINISH MAX SPRAYER so now you can spray those cabinets, they are only around one hundred bucks.
I can't help but feel like some time in this video would've been a great time to make a "happy little accidents" reference. Still, we're going to be painting our cabinets, so this video helped. Thanks!
I’m sure that I am chiming in on the same thing others have mentioned. It doesn’t look like anything was done to hide the grain, yet I didn’t really see any grain after painting.
Probably because the paint was an enamel made for cabinets. Not your basic paint.
Paint on wood will always hide the grain, doesn't matter the kind of paint. The only way to keep the grain is to stain the wood.
why would you worry about the grain???
@@Fattony6666 in some some cases people stain the wood because the color of the stain and the grain of the wood make a nice look
This Old House has always been an entertainment program. It has never been a how-to program. So I've been entertained by the pros dissing the job that Mauro and Kevin have done. Like : Man, I'd get fired if I did a job like that. I'd use a sprayer... I'd do this and that. The reality is that a handy homeowner would never hire a pro to do this small a job ( 10ft of cabs or so). I am such a homeowner that has painted dozens of feet of my own cabs in 5 homes. This is basically how I did them. No spraying, and certainly no pore filling. And as for the people whining about what brand of this or that, or how do I buy a brush or roller, you are not ready for this job yet. Go buy some cabs for the garage and practice on those. A 20 minute video is not going to teach you how to paint. Painting a few is going to teach you how to paint. As for me, I was satified with the video. First, it is free. Second, it was entertaining. Third, I did not need to learn anything from it.
Ah, okay. I was wondering why they didn't use a sprayer. I was wondering if this video would help me touch up my cabinets, which were sprayed. And now I know, the answer is no, LOL.
Well said Sr!👍
True, no homeowner will be able to master the technique of spraying the cabinets for just his one kitchen project. But I have seen the painter we use for our home improvement business use a Benjamin Moore product called Cabinet Coat that brushed on and smoothed out into a spray look finish.
@@Briguy1027 that's not funny at all
You absolutely do not need to spray to get a professional look but you do need more prep than This Old House video. This is a must watch where a true professional will explain the different primers, paints and technique to use in order to get a perfectly smooth finish:
ua-cam.com/video/0kKDbutQbtc/v-deo.html
I've worked at the paint store and have done this exact job multiple times. be sure to do your research and make sure the job is done properly. People tend to overlook and not be prepared.
So I need to clean/wash before? Or if I’m sanding them down thoroughly does it really matter? Any downside to using electric sander?
Noticed they didn't show a close-up of the finished product, how visible are the brush strokes when doing it this way?
There’s an additive called Floetrol to help eliminate roll and brush marks lol
that's not even remotely funny
Thanks - very inspiring!
I hope I get a response. In materials it says 4 inch roller sleeves, high density. Then at the end of list it states Mister Rui Paint Rollers 4 inch polyamide. Is one for the primer and one for the paint? It doesn't indicate why two different types. Thank you in advance.
Should the base trim and 1/4 round be painted to match the cabinets?
How long should the primer set before actually painting?
What would you suggest to use to fill the grain in the wood? Personally I can't stand to see grain on painted wood.
You ever figure that out? I hadn't thought about that, but I imagine it would make for a nice smooth finish.
I used Aquacoat but there are other brands. You could also try slurry sanding method. UA-cam has some good videos on pore filling for cabinets.
@@weekendhomeprojects See my answer to the original question.
Good for garage cabinets.
Ok just one more question!? Whybdo the velour paint rollers sometimes glide over a painted surface?
To much paint on the roller.
@@Off-Grid
1/4" nap the best for painting cabinets and any other project? I'm almost feeling hesitant in redoing my kitchen cabinets bc I want to do them right...this time. It's been about 4 to 5 yrs since they were painted. My husband chose the color that is on the cabinets now. We don't have a big kitchen. The walls are a salmon color; whereas the cabinets are a tad darker than a cream color, and with new flooring in our future, those current colors will make the kitchen
look even smaller. I've rushed through many painting jobs, that is inside my own house, and I, like I mentioned, really want to do these cabinets slowly and to the point that I am satisfied. Help me to not feel hesitant and worried that I'll mess something up.
Thanks just what I needed to know
Beautiful easy job
Excited to give this a try! What degreaser did you use?
Krud Kutter All purpose Cleaner/Degreaser. It's the red spray bottle. Good luck on your project!
I used TSP(Trisodium Phosphate), worked excellent.
Nice teamwork
I'd highly recommend a high bond primer, if going over any sort of clear finish. Also be very careful and consistent with your brush and roller strokes, texture is very important on something like a cabinet. Also no satin in a kitchen, it attracts too much oil and dirt.
Actually the steps he did was good, but I prefer cover stain from zinsser
I'd spray vs brush
@@Off-Grid that is not an option for some people in some situations.
Lol, satin is the industry standard finish.
@@ryane6719 maybe for a clear finish, satin paint on a high wear surface will attract more dirt than a semi gloss, as will a semi gloss more than a gloss. If that is what you want for your own home sure, but I manage apartments, satin would not last an acceptable amount of time.
I need a video on how to adjust the hinges when reassembling because I can't get this right
No protective coat on latex paint?
Mauro is the man when it comes to paint
As a painter of 42 years, and watching this gentleman on TOH for awhile. I can tell you, Mauro still has a lot of learning to do. That will come with time.
Do you use brush after used roller?
I'm confused...In the notes there is a link to INSL-X Cabinet Coat Enamel paint which is really good stuff, yet at 4:00 he breaks out the Behr paint. Ugg.. what's up with that?
I painted my 50yr old cabinets after stripping and sanding but the only prob I had was the paint cracked at the hinge location. Behr latex..same primer
Behr is the problem! It's a horrible paint! You need a better quality paint and primer. I have been painting for 25 years. Everytime I have used Behr it comes out horrible.
@@derekleesmith76 Behr'ly covers...am I right?
@@derekleesmith76 What is a good paint brand to use for this type of application?
Did you end up repainting? What did you end up going with?
So if you don't have a tack cloth can you use a microfiber cloth?
Any kind of rag or even a lightly damp paper towel works
Vacuuming the dust with a clean brush attachment has always been my way to get a clean lint free surface.
I used this paint with a 1/4" nap roller as instructed. Still left orange peel/roller texture as the paint does not self level. Noticed that you tipped the larger areas.
Use a foam roller. Sherwin Williams carries flock and mohair rollers that will make it look like it was sprayed.
@@michaelmcgee2026 I've tried various foam covers and went back to the flock 1/4". May try mohair but suspect that the paint needs thinning as it skins over before leveling. Spraying is no different; thinning is required even if your sprayer is powerful enough to not need it.
So there is a couple of reason you have orange pill ,1st you put it on to tick second the paint is too thick you need to thin it down or the pain is drying to fast and doesn’t have time to flow there is a lot of Self-leveling paint out there you can use. you can’t just use a regular wall paint ,you need to use a high end trim or cabinet paint. don’t try to do it in one or two coats we usually do 3-4 coats but very thin. By the way in this video they forgot to send the primer you always send the primer. And I guess the reason they did not spray it because homeowner does not have the money to buy a professional sprayer the one you can rent in Home Depot or Lowes are not meant to be spraying fine finish on furniture‘s those are meant to be do painting fence, houses etc.
No sealant required after the paint?
One more question...I notice that after rolling the paint on you use a paint brush. May I ask why? I've always just used the roller. I'm learning as a home owner to be a diy'selfer! Thank you!
Get an airless sprayer if you want a professional looking finish.
It’s a personal preference- brush strokes in the direction of the wood resembles wood grain, vs a roller that has a roller texture. Many people, myself included, prefer a light brush stroke. But yes, an airless sprayer is also a good route.
@@cpassehl
I'm one who doesn't like brush strokes in past experience. A homeowner who is a diy'selfer have been for many yrs. Just want to do it right this time.
@@cpassehl
My kitchen cabinets have been painted yrs ago. Just want a fresh look.
We call it laying it down, so you don't want the roller stubble look, if you have quality paint you roll it on and then you lay it down with a brush very easy, the paint should not show any brush marks, good quality paint is the key
Y’all get a new camera? Some amazing close shots in this video.
Hi, what roller do you use?
It seems to me, and I may be mistaken here, but, it appears that the top coat was a Behr Premium Cabinet & Trim Enamel Interior paint. Am I wrong?
You’re correct
does air spraying look better than brush/roller or theres no difference ???
If your doing a large project...like kitchen cabinets...I would do the cabinet shelves with brush and then hire someone to air spray the cabinet fronts...don't try to buy an air sprayer from the large chains...they clog and don't work well...hire someone! I learned the hard way!
Make sure you prep the cabinet fronts properly first...I used liquid sandpaper and a stiff brush...worked great.
Can you use all-in-one primer/paint product?
What are they using for degreaser? What are they cleaning it with? Why do they leave out every important detail?
I think back to the days of Bob Vila. The bad old days. Today TOH is strong, vibrant and relevant. Keep on keeping on. Thanks.
Do you paint the inside of the doors?
@ 4:02 do you have to paint this slowly? Slow motion? Or is this a badly chosen video effect? Great video nevertheless as planning to do this job soon.
Behr paint and primer covers well. Had a friend who had her house painted twice by two different contractors and two years later the paint started fading and peeling. The difference was spray and roll
You spray cabinets and roll walls. Not the other way around. Paint sprayed on walls has to be thinned down a lot to get it to spray and it just soak into the drywall and texturing. If you have ever tried to wipe off a mark from a sprayed wall you would know that the paint just rubs off and you rub a hole into the texture on the wall. Cabinets on the other hand are smooth and need to be sprayed to not have brush strokes or roller marks.
Thoughts on chalk paint
I wish they made something like this for RVs like ask this old RVer or something. Lol
I had my cabinets painted professionally and the paint seems to scratch pretty easily. Is this normal or did the “pros” skip a step?
Shouldn't scratch easily but that could be many different reasons. Didn't sand. Didn't use the right type of primer. Didn't use the right type of paint.
It's a really tough job to get right, cabinets take a beating people's fingernails constantly up against them when you go to reach for a knob or a handle if you don't take your time and you try to skip the sanding step you're going to have problems, it's a lot of money to have somebody come in and do it correctly obviously depending on how many cabinets you have
Did you figure out what they did wrong? Get it fixed or repainted?
That’s the faucet Kevin and Richard installed.
Don't let them lie to you. You definitely 100% need to use oil primer if you are not going back to bare wood. Even alkyd or urethane won't stick to a light scuff sanding. If it doesn't pass the fingernail test after 48 hours what do you think like it's going to look like in a year?
That's nonsense. Oil isn't necessary anymore. It also takes closer to 3-4 weeks to establish a true density. Guaranteed it passes the scratch test after a month. I've used Latex primer on every cabinet job I've ever done. If you follow the proper Prep methodology, you'll be fine 👍
@@TheRogueDeadGuy unless you're removing ALL sealing of the grain we will agree to disagree. Care to name your product? Most (like +90%) of paint reps will tell you, you have to strip the surface 100%. Many write directly on the can. I'd really like to know what you're using that isn't. I'm skeptical at best. True density? We are talking about adhesion.
@@SkebtikI like your thinking. I'm gonna do this but cause of money issues I can only afford a sander/ vacuum for the sander and the stuff these guys are using. Do you recommend the oil primer at least? Also does the oil primer have fumes?
@broodyyedda5621 well I down own a run a painting company
@@Skebtik will it at least be better if they sanded it a bit more and put more layers of.primer?
There is painters tape in this world!
Why not spray paint the cabinets. It would seem that you would end up with a smoother finish?
Spraying is definitely better! But for those without a sprayer, brushing and rolling a urethane enamel (ben moore advance, sherwin emerald urethane) Gives a great finish still. Not the same but still exceptional if done well
A lot of people suggest spray painting, but I haven't seen many people showing how to do this in the home. It seems to me if one is not a professional painter, the investment into costs to do this would be daunting. Unless you are going to be spray painting a lot, you might as well buy new cabinets! Also, spray painting would require more than tape and a little newspaper to avoid over-spray depositing on the rest of the kitchen. Someone I know, having more money than most homeowners, hired someone to spray paint their cabinets. The painter took doors and drawer faces to a shop that was dedicated to spray painting, where the parts could be hung for painting. They brush painted the frames and sides in place in the home. For folks like me having a small kitchen and needing to do this job maybe once every 7-10 years, spray painting is just overkill.
You really need to tell more specifics in these videos. What type of roller? What type or brush? How about brand of paint used?do you brush it after roll? Come one
Yep. All the painting videos are like this.
Yep
They could put it in the description
the paint was behr cabinet and trim
You’d be a lost puppy without them huh.
Anyone know what brand of primer they used?
That little bit of blue that peaked out near his hand makes me think it was Zinssers Bullseye 1-2-3, which I agree is a great primer
@@bradgehman859 Thank you sir!
That upper panel on the front of that bathroom cabinet comes off as do the ones on the front of the kitchen base (or have tip-outs). Remove them!! Don't paint them in or you will regret it.
I left them on and have no regrets
@@Fattony6666 Congratulations
Same process if cabinets have a color on them already? Lightly sanding so the primer will adhere? I so don't like the idea of taking out my hand sander, again, to sand down the kitchen cabinets. Btw...great video as always!
Always a light sanding between coats
@@rickfromthecape3135 But not so much as to taking the whole coat of paint off correct?
@@kathymieczkowski4981
Sand only until you will have a dull look.
Then you know the next coat will be able to stick on it and will not fall off as it would with the glossy look.
@@Dino_Buk
Ty for responding to my concern...if using my electric hand sander, what grit would be best to use on the current paint of the cabinets? I'm pretty sure it's a satin finish.
@@kathymieczkowski4981 200 grit between coats works fine
I`m wanting to have a fireplace put in with gas logs. Wish you guys would come put it in for me ! I live in a small town, dont know who to do the work for me.
A question I have not found the answer to: Several professional painters (for outside) said primer should sit for 24 hours before you paint so it will 'cure'. The paint can says dry in an hour or so. I have some paint failing and not sure if it is bad paint or that I painted too soon after primer. (I would never use the primer + paint.) This Old House or even other painting videos have never addressed in any video the question of how long to wait .
Always follow manufacturers instructions which will vary per primer
So the previous answer is right follow manufacture recommendation. My experns is and I’ve been doing a lot kitchen cabinets is Different . I used multiple primers in my past oil primer, latex primer. I never had to wait more than a couple hours after after I applied it to start sending it down. if you put it on to thick it’s gonna take forever to dry . the primer usually goes on very thin and does not have to cover solid. You can use oil primer what you can send very easily and dryes very quickly there is also bonding primer if you have an item you want to paint but you’re not sure if they use latex or oil or polymer or polyurethane paint you can always just put a bonding primer on it very thin and then you can put anything on top of it even on the oil primer you can use a latex finish. Drying time : You always have to thinking about the condition where you priming it if it’s a lot of humidity it’s gonna take forever to dry no matter if it’s water or oil base. After you prime something and you able to touch it without getting paint on your hand you can put it outside on the sun and let it bake for 30 minutes or an hour it’s kind of like the way they do it in a Commercial settings where they put it in the oven.
Thanks for the reply and that seems to cover inside painting. Several outside painters told me to wait 24 hours after priming for it to cure (oil and latex primer). Just because it is dry to the touch they claim it still needs time. Have any of your pro-painters heard of that?
What you want to look for is the recoat time. It could say dry to the touch in two or four hours but the recoat time could be 12 or 16 hours. FYI it takes paints and primers weeks to cure.
Water base paint for wood?
Raise the grain, hard to sand, poor adhesion… what’s not to love lol
Why do you need to degrease when you turn around and sand?? Sanding would remove it, right??
Im confused. Are you rolling and then immediately brushing over what you rolled or are you rolling the first coat and brushing the second coat?
Also, should you caulk between the panels and the rails and stiles frame the center panel?
Finally, can you use spray primer in a can to speed up things?
Thank you!
I believe they rolled the primer on larger surfaces, and then grabbed a brush for areas they couldn't get to with a roller. Maybe they also did a final wipe with a brush for consistent texture?
So you roll the paint on just to get the material on the cabinets and then you back brush or we call it laying it down with a really good quality brush that way you don't have the texture of a roller, so you can use a brush and a roller to put it on and then you lay it down with the brush very lightly and if you're using quality paint you shouldn't see any brush marks
Boat painters roll on the paint and then tip it off with a brush. The technique is known as "roll and tip". Look that up and you will find lots of help.
use some aquacoat grain filler to get an even smoother finish
wont water based primer and paint peel?
i was taught to use oil based on wood surfaces to adhere best not water based. i once dealt with water based on wood and it peeled so easy
totally fine to use water based on wood. tech had come a long way.
no it won't peel
What degreaser did you use?
I find the best degreaser to be Krud Kutter. It's awesome
@@suzanacarey Thanks. I've seen it in stores and will give it a try.
You can use standard dish soap, go dish soap wash it nicely, dry, then do a cleaning with a rag and acetone and it’ll be really ready
Don't forget to fill the pores on all those oak cabinets unless you want the texture to telegraph through the paint.
I like that look, texture is very important on something like a cabinet. I'd prefer the natural wood grain to roller and brush strokes. Also not sure what you'd use to fill it, except a high build primer and sanding, I'd rather use a high bond primer, I suppose you could do both, one after the other, but that sounds like a lot of work.
@@danb.709 They make grain filler that you spread on the wood before painting or finishing. I just learned about it.
No need for all that
The cabinet paint will cover.
@@Off-Grid it's not about it covering, it's about it getting scraped off and dinged up during normal use. Also I like the wood grain texture, which a standard one coat of primer, and one or two coats of paint will not cover up, apparently others may want to fill the grain, but I wouldn't trust a normal wood filler over urethane.
Make sure to *NOT* show the kind of primer to use, the most important thing 🤦♂️ I always use the BIN shellac primer when doing this 👍
They covered the label which tells me they couldn’t get a sponsor or permission to use.
@@ryane6719 They probably want $$$.
@@SolitaryMaverick can’t blame them
Does this method hide the oak wood grains?
No， you need grain filler
Enamel paint does a good job of hiding most of it
When it comes to kitchen cabinets, it's always better to use oil base primer.
Needs oil primer. The wood tannin will bleed through the latex paint sooner or later no matter how many coats you put on it
couldn't agree more. I'm a painting contractor of 16 years. I always use oil based primer then acrylic topcoat. I like to sand before and after priming then a sprayed finish also.
thats what I've been told. Oil.
But cheap undocumented labor gets you cheap, low-quality work.
Ask any Texan.
Bleed seal
Latex primer works just as good dummy
The original laquer finish is holding back any possible tanning issue. Bonding latex is fine in this application. I would only brush here to avoid any roller texture in both the primer and finish. I'm sure a close up video would reveal some sloppyness as the paint started to set up before back brushing.
Don’t use water based primer for cabinets! Use Zinsser BIN. It won’t come off with proper prep. Oil paint is best.
I've used water based for cabinets and it works great. Don't listen to "wildmike223" from the youtube comments for advice
@@Fattony6666 It may work fine but using an oil based or shellac based primer is much more durable then what any water based primer can give you. So for something you'll only want to do once, I'd go with the better working product for this particular job. An acrylic latex paint is fine on top of either primer but I'd suggest an enamel top coat, especially for something that will see daily use as it cures very hard and can stand up to abuse much better. Prep work is key to success for either product though.
They should have mentioned what type of cleaner to use to degrease the wood.
TSP Heavy Duty Cleaner
?
Krud kutter
There's a ton of details they should have mentioned.
Its hard to find any one cleaner that will get cabinets all the way clean. There are sometimes a variety of different oils and stains on them. I have found denatured alcohol works pretty well though.
@@srharris88 tsp
1:45 thank you for covering up the type of cleaner you are using. Just let the audience guess and use trial by error when could have saved us hours and hours of experimentation.
It looked like Krud Kutter.
Why didn’t they use ( or at least mention ) wood grain filler. If I’m going to paint over my oak cabinets I do not want to see grain bleeding through.
Good work 👏
Make sure to use Floetrol in your paint, then you won't have any brush marks.
Can you paint the inside of the cabinets or not?
use oil primer then water based finish paint