I've watched several brake handle replacement videos and you had some great extra tips ("Take a picture before starting the disassembly!" & "Don't get that small lever arm reversed!"). Thanks for a V.G. video. Suggestion : Please have a second person operate the camera. ha
Thanks for putting this out there, I just successfully changed mine out with your video as reference and I’m back up and running again…much appreciated!!
I appreciate you doing this video, I just used the information from it to change the brake lever on my MS461. The only real difference is the access cover you take off isn’t a complete cover like on the saw you did, it’s mostly just across the top. The first time I got the lever on, I noticed the spring had fallen off of the piece you were telling us to pry out of the way so the hand guard could drop the rest of the way onto the pin. I had to take the lever back off and put that spring on, then I kept checking if it was still on. Thanks again.
U were right on point about every step u made but one thing stood out to me to make putting the brake back on much easier. Instead of using a pry bar on the other side of the brake, just go ahead and screw that side in to have it over with and it will hold in place much better while u try and get the side on with the springs back into place.
@@mountainguyed67yes u could if u pulled that far apart but I’ve done this a dozen or more times since this post and haven’t had any issues spreading it to far apart.
wow, video with my exact saw doing the replacement I need to do (broke in the same place). I was hung up at the spring removal, more in fear of not being able to reassemble than not knowing how to disassemble. This was very helpful! Though you really need to get a tripod or body mount...you got valuable stuff to say, but its difficult to focus when you film it blair witch style! would you consider doing a video on how to properly tune that saw? I've never really known how to do that, my saw runs well, but maybe it could run better? lastly, does your saw pull weird when you're in full start mode (choke all the way down)? Particularly bad when its cold out? Since the day I got mine (new), its always done that. Couple really rough pulls, it loosens up, flip it to start and it pops right off. Its just so rough those first couple pulls, first cold start I ever did, I legit thought the piston was already seized. Its been like that for years, no better, no worse...just trying to see if that's somehow "normal"?
Thanks so much for doing the video I imagine you saved me $75
I've watched several brake handle replacement videos and you had some great extra tips ("Take a picture before starting the disassembly!" & "Don't get that small lever arm reversed!"). Thanks for a V.G. video. Suggestion : Please have a second person operate the camera. ha
Did exactly what you said and it worked like a charm, thank you for posting this video
This was a big help. I was hesitant to take it apart worried about getting it back together, but now I am sure I can do it.
Thanks for putting this out there, I just successfully changed mine out with your video as reference and I’m back up and running again…much appreciated!!
Worked perfectly with my Ms 261c. I just used a straight point pick and leverage then spring to clip in place tho!
This was very helpful when I replaced my lever. I stretched the cam spring with needle nose pliers vs. a pick.
I used a flat screwdriver.
I appreciate you doing this video, I just used the information from it to change the brake lever on my MS461. The only real difference is the access cover you take off isn’t a complete cover like on the saw you did, it’s mostly just across the top. The first time I got the lever on, I noticed the spring had fallen off of the piece you were telling us to pry out of the way so the hand guard could drop the rest of the way onto the pin. I had to take the lever back off and put that spring on, then I kept checking if it was still on. Thanks again.
Good Video will help me immensely to put the saw back together after someone gave me the pieces back in a bag and wished me luck
Thank you this was a great help to me 😁
Thanks you
U were right on point about every step u made but one thing stood out to me to make putting the brake back on much easier. Instead of using a pry bar on the other side of the brake, just go ahead and screw that side in to have it over with and it will hold in place much better while u try and get the side on with the springs back into place.
You would spread the two sides out more doing that. Why push your luck?
@@mountainguyed67yes u could if u pulled that far apart but I’ve done this a dozen or more times since this post and haven’t had any issues spreading it to far apart.
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thank you sir
wow, video with my exact saw doing the replacement I need to do (broke in the same place). I was hung up at the spring removal, more in fear of not being able to reassemble than not knowing how to disassemble. This was very helpful! Though you really need to get a tripod or body mount...you got valuable stuff to say, but its difficult to focus when you film it blair witch style!
would you consider doing a video on how to properly tune that saw? I've never really known how to do that, my saw runs well, but maybe it could run better?
lastly, does your saw pull weird when you're in full start mode (choke all the way down)? Particularly bad when its cold out? Since the day I got mine (new), its always done that. Couple really rough pulls, it loosens up, flip it to start and it pops right off. Its just so rough those first couple pulls, first cold start I ever did, I legit thought the piston was already seized. Its been like that for years, no better, no worse...just trying to see if that's somehow "normal"?
When you gonna be down HOUSTON,TEXAS way ????