AliExpress LiitoKala Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) 32700 Cells HIGH CURRENT Tests!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Testing low cost, high capacity rechargeable Aliexpress (LiitoKala) lithium iron phosphate(LiFePO4) 32700 cells/batteries at 15 and 20 Amps constant current to see how well they perform! Enjoy the video.
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ATTENTION: Wires used for the 15A test were #12 stranded copper wire that was just under 1 foot long. Each end had the wire crimped onto the terminals. For the 20A test, #10 stranded copper was used, and the wires were crimped the same way. Yes, there's a voltage drop across the wires, and that voltage drop more than likely reduced the test capacity by 200 - 250 mAh. Bottom line is, the cells tested very well compared to the 6500mAh advertised rating(even though they're marked higher at 7000Ah). The video also shows that a 25A discharge rate would likely result in too much heat for the cell to be used until reaching 2.5V. Thanks for watching!
Link showing a typical voltage drop for a 15A load using #12 copper wire: bit.ly/2KISGqa
Compared to a voltage drop for a 20A load using the same #12 copper wire: bit.ly/3bOAjfJ
The graphing 9:14 was that the PC software that seems to be included for these units, as it is listed with a USB port, though they list the CD software as optional or was the graph just a crude graph you made yourself.
Any info about this units PC software abilities., any good??.. thx a lot for your video, will definitely take a view on some of your other videos to get an idea of your channel.
You still digging this electronic load here, a few months later?
Amazing test. Please test 33140 lifepo4 cells from AliExpress as they claim 15Ah :)
Hi Doug.
If the battery capacity is 7Ah rated and you tested it at 15A then this would be considered a ± 2C max continuous discharge test?
......... at 20A it is ± 3C max continuous discharge test?
initially the battery NEVER reached the 7Ah nominal rating, so then the Liitokala 7Ah rating is bogus / fake?
*OR am I misunderstanding this ?*
@@JAKOB1977 yeah, interested to know whether it's manual or they have their own program for that.
@@joatmofa0405 Industry standard is to do a discharge test at 0.2C however for high discharge cells you would also want to perform a discharge test at their rated current and get results that are very close. I find 5% under stated capacity to be acceptable so when a Samsung 25R is tested at 20A I don't expect to see 2500mah...if I see 2375mah or higher to be ok. Would prefer to see just a 2% short figure and if you dial the current back a bit, say to 10A I would expect to see 2500mah. The 0.2C test at 500ma should yield a fair bit higher than 2.5Ah, somewhere in the region of 2575mah. Temperature is how you can spot the fakes from the genuine. A fake cell (typically they use a similar capacity cell with much lower discharge rate) cannot handle 20A without getting really hot, really quick. You'll hit 60 Celsius way before the cell has neared its cutoff voltage unless of course the cell is so bad that 20A plummets it straight down below the cutoff voltage. The genuine cells should always be able to finish the discharge and the temp you read at the end will almost precisely match the datasheet
Amazing testing and terrific information. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into the videos!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching
What a blessing to get a comment from you
I love these cells! If you take 20 amps as the Max draw per cell in your designs, they perform fantastic, even during cold winter weather. I just finished building a fast ebike that draws 100 amps from a 5p battery pack made of these cells. Pulls like a bull and has great range at the same time!
Mine still perform well. I like them for the money. Be sure to look over my wide range of videos below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks
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Great timing Doug, I just ordered an ET5420 a few days ago (Banggood). I was able to find the documentation in English, but so far I haven’t located a source for the PC software. Is that what you used for the discharge graphs in your video?
You can contact the company at the email address below. I don't plan on using it with my computer, so I didn't bother checking. I make my charts online. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share.
sales@east-tester.com
hello, I have just brought this load tester , however I am finding it difficult to find the software that plugs into it. ez make some software but it is not compatible, may I ask what you used to remove the data please…nice vid by the way, good useful info..cheers.
Well thats not a good sign when it drops that hard. It's less than a 3C test. I was surprised to see it get to 6Ah but I guess the problem is some BMS's have a rather high cutoff voltage for their overdischarge voltage protection. I had some JGNE cells from 18650 Battery Store that claimed 30C on an 1100mah cell so 33A. At 15A the voltage was plummeting down to 2.85V. I don't have a ton of experience with LiFeP04 but in my mind, a voltage drop that close to the voltage cutoff is too much. Your wh will be significantly impacted since your average voltage was probably 2.70V vs the 3.20V we actually see on cells that only drop to 3.29V with a big load. I was pulling right at the rated capacity on the cells but in some applications maintaining the nominal voltage or higher is very beneficial so I'm tempted to leave a bad review for these cells.
Do you have a personal "no good" number for voltage drop on LiFeP04 when it comes to disputing C rating?
Edit: Doh, never realized this electronic load doesn't have V sense wires like the ZKE TECH testers do. My testing was done on an EBC-A20 so the voltage was indeed 2.85V when hit with 15A.
Isn't 15 and 20 amps a bit much to discharge these cells with?
LiFePo4 usally rates @ 0,5C-1C if I remember correctly. Whats the recomended C rating for these?
Ohh, Im sorry. I missed the intro of the video that people in the comment section wanted you to test them at a higher apmperage. Still courious of the recomended C ratings though.
Hi there. The manufacturer claimed 6C or (30A). Based on my tests, the heat fro the cell would be too excessive(above 60C) at 25A, and the voltage would be very close the the 2.5V cut-off. Thanks for watching!
I asked you to do this test on your first test video of these and now you did it, thank you!!
You are welcome!
120520/1148h PST. Thank you for the demo on the new Cell Capacity tester ET5420. Looks like this device more reliable than a few out there in the Market, pricey though. Perhaps this device is designed for Lab testing and not for Electronics enthusiasts. The explanation is done pretty well.
There were a few comments on the cooling fan high dB. Perhaps a slight modification to fan circuitry into a PWM design would take care of it.
Looking forward to your final stages of military Cabin and how the system was integrated to useful Power for home. Take care and 73s...
BRAVO, OTTIMO TEST.
I'm no expert but I think you shut compensate for the voltage drop in the leads when doing such a high current test so you measure the right voltage at the battery in order to get start / stop the test at the proper voltage?
considering that the load puts a near 0.8 v drop over the leads when starting the load I think you're measurements are way off.
Not way off. You need to watch the first video with the 1.5A and 3A tests. Voltage measurements were taken at the cell's terminals, and the capacity results were not that different from this video.
I'm curios to how much you could get out of the cell when you discharge it until the idle voltage is at 2.5v . Correct the amps to 2.5v until there are no left
Hello. Thank you very much for your excellent work. Best regards, John (66 years with 55 years in the rc hobby! I live in Colombia and Norway.
Best LFP test video I’ve seen so far thanks 4 creating it!!
Thanks for the nice comment! Glad you liked it. More people need to take one minute to share links to my videos on social networking sites if they really enjoy them, otherwise they end up being a waste of time.
Whats your view on these Easttester electronic load devices.. as far as I can tell,they look to be the best bang for the buck, but been that for some years and wondering if any better alternative at the same pricepoint has seen daylight?
121220/1242h PST. Thanks again. Will ET5420/5410 be able to test capacity of 3.5V/ 200Ah prismatic cell?
Will appreciate your response. 73s..
Yes, the 5410 allow 40A on one output.
121420/0559h PST. Fantastic. That was what I wanted to hear. Thank you and best wishes. Stay safe. 73s...
Excellent information. I purchased 12 of these to build a 4s3p power brick. I had been confounded trying to wire/strap the pack to effectively handle the resultant (claimed) 90+ amps. Your tests indicate, at least for my purposes, a 40-50 amp maximum will be sufficient. The voltage sag will make higher currents useless. I would very much like to see you do both low and high discharge rate tests on the LiitoKala Power Co. Model 35135200 {3.2v 100Ah LifePo4 battery lithium 300A 3C high drain) as they can accept copper buss bars and the 2-4 ga. cable to handle such currents. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Check out my very wide range of videos below, and most importantly share.
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If I wanted to build a 36v ebike battery out of these would it be 12s. My old battery was a 10s li ion pouch cell battery 10a I'm looking for more range and longevity, what bms would work?
The one below.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9A53eH
(Affiliate Link)
I just bought one of these East Testers. I got the ET4510. Seems like the constant resistance mode does not work. Have you played with yours in CR mode? I am wondering if I need to return it.
The ET5410? Mine is the dual channel 5420. It works for me. There are many settings on that unit. If you don't properly set them, some functions may not work properly.
You should have measured the voltage drop on the leads at given current and subtract it from cut off voltage (when you don't have the option to use 4 terminal measurement)
Great video, as per normal. Can you share which Aliexpress vendor you used to get these genuine cells? I'm concerned that I won't get the same ones.
LiitoKala Official Store is the seller. Thanks for watching, and be sure to rate thumbs up and share the video link.
Hello Doug. Great test and explanation. Has always I liked,shared. Oh That jump pack you reviewed a while back . I had ordered one and got to try it out a month ago. I was very happy with it,to say the least. My old style jump pack with a new lead acid battery couldn't do anything but make clicking sounds. The Jump you reviewed cranked like a champ. I kept forgetting to tell you. All my best.
Great to hear Bobby! Glad you enjoyed the video. Stay safe
Interesting also I do wish to see more battery high current discharge tests also including carbon Zinc batteries
Sadly, not too many people bother with the old chemistry carbon zinc batteries. You can buy good alkalines at a very low cost, and get much more run time. Thanks for watching! Stay safe.
@@electronicsNmore fair enough I have continued interest watching your videos
That's all pretty impressive I have some 21700 Samsung 40t that I believe are rated for 40 amps which is a lot
Thanks for watching James! Be sure to share.
With that amount of current you'll get what could be a significant voltage drop in the leads. Can you use the other channel as a remote voltage sense?
Wires only 12" long. 15A test used #12 copper wire with crimped connections, and the 20A test is #10 wire. Yes, youll have a voltage drop, but not that much.
I agree. At such currents it should be mandatory to use sense leads as well.
Yes, one channel can be used with jumper wires to measure the voltage of the cell at the terminals, just like I did in the previous testing video. I would have to manually stop the test. I suspect the reading for the 15A and 20A tests would be around 200-250mAh higher if you figure in the resistance of the wires.
@@electronicsNmore I don't know: I do believe that the internal resistance of the cell is much higher, than the resistance in those short, heavy gauge test leads. There could be contact resistance in the clips to the cell terminals, but, I didn't see the temperature rise on the FLIR.
@@electronicsNmore I also suspect that there is quite a large voltage drop in the leads, maybe 0.2 to 0.3V at 15A. You could test it easily: use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the cell and also the voltage at the terminals of the testing apparatus.
Looks like a good quality cell brand if it can sustain almost 3C and still live up to its marked capacity!
For the money, it's not bad at all. Thanks for watching!
Well Dang, Wish I had a load like that to test my Nissan Modules. Ordered the little 150W load tester last week. Not here yet.
You'll have fun with it. 😀 Just keep the test wires short.
Good video. Like.
Thank you very much! Please share.
How much would the "capacity" be if you only discharge to 3v for cell longevity?
Several hundred less in mAh capacity.
that was a detailed video about the battery, it really helps' Thanks!
Glad it was helpful Marc! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Sweet, battery time.
Thanks for watching Jonn! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share with others.
LitoKala batteries are not bad(perform well) ...my brother. Great test.
Glad you liked the video Reginald! Be sure to share the link. Yes, they test very well. They're marked 7000Ah, but they sell them as 6500Ah. My tests for the 5, 10 , 15 , and 20A average just over 6Ah. Thanks for watching
are these finnish batteries or is it just coincidence that liitokala means flying fish in finnish :D edit:not really flying more like gliding , still funny tho :p
😂 I just checked online, and it translates to "Glide Fish". Like many, it's a Chinese company. Thanks for watching! Please share.
Yeah, I was always wondering how they came upon that name. Maybe whoever set it up just liked the word they saw and went with it. Can't be a coincidence.
Hi, love the video. I recently bought these batteries in bulk. i noticed you discharged the battery through the nickel strips that came with the battery. How was that holding up ? Im worried that those might be a "melting" point if you discharge through them above 10A. However i saw that you were draining through em no problem.
Testing at the higher current, made the strip become warm, so I would suggest spot welding another strip over the strip that's on the cells. Glad you liked the video! Be sure to share the video link.
@@electronicsNmore : yeah i gotta see how that goes hah :) .. my spot welder is more of a diy. Anyhow would the spot welding of more strips be welded directly on top of each other or would it be more of a "extention", meaning id always see a few mm of the one below. ?
@@thelemoncuttingguy5127 It seems that "stacking" is a common (and effective} method to increase current capacity - double the metal, double the amps, roughly.
please cek resistance battery
i think using thick nickel strips will further reduce temperature . Really thank you for doing this test for the community . adding passive heat sinks will make it a beast .
Hi,
In many countries the voltage is not constant and drops drastically based on local load e.g. 230v drops to about 150v inside the house (in India I think this is a problem)
Can you do a video of how to increase a low voltage to a steady voltage into a home? Any cheap DIY methods with generators or whatever.
Thanks
Wires must be very small. You need a variac.
Nominal Voltage:
3.7v on aliexpress , You show full charge 3.6 . Strange ... And Nominal Capacity: 6.5Ah but your test show no more than 6Ah
The voltage drop across your wires sucks, messing up the voltage reading big time!
Wow, those are some strong batteries!!! Another great video!!!!
They sure are. Thanks for watching Dave!
123020/1138h PST I"m watching this presentation for the 3rd time and taking notes. I bought ET5410 (single channel) unit since then. With the new device, I'm slightly confused with the operation procedure. The main capacity test that I'd carryout will be on, LiFePo4 @50A and 100A basically. It'd greatly enhance if an elaborate test procedure could be presented on those cells. I don't know if such a test report was already performed and posted in YT, by you. if so, Kindly point to that link.
By the way, I failed to DL the SW or was unable to open .RAR zip file on My 15 year old dusty Windows desktop from storage. The Factory doesn't have an OS X version for this device.
Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Stay safe and 73s..
Hi there. The ET5410 only tests up to 40A, to test higher, you'd need another tester.
have you tried the constant resistance mode of the et5420 yet? does it work?
the only other video about this load on youtube is "CR not working".
Works on my unit.
Does anyone have experience with shorter, but (much) higher loads on these cells? Like 100-200A pulses? I'm trying to figure out weather I would need a 1P4S or 2P4S for my motorcycle. The original 14Ah lead-acid has a 260A CCA rating.
That's WAY over the rating. Check out the LiFePO4's below. There may be a better deal for you.
amzn.to/3flippu
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
Great video!
These batteries say they can do a max continuous discharge for 30 amp. Is that a test worth seeing?
Based on my tests, they would exceed the max temp rating using a 30A discharge rate. Thanks for watching!
Hi. I am looking for a cheap battery pack tester. Mainly for 36V and 52V 10-20Ah lithium battery packs. What is the best choice, Kunkin KP-184 or East Tester 5410?
Hi there. If you only need 1 channel, then I'd go with the ET 5410. If you use the link provided, be sure to use one of the money saving coupon codes, or just ask me for one. Thanks for watching!
Btw I buy theese from aliexpress 6pcs at a time, that way its just under vat level and taxfree in finland :)
Thx a lot for that great video an tests. Quck question: I'm about to biuld a starter battery for my motorcycle and need to draw around 100-120A for a very short time (only a few seconds). Do you think this battery would be suffiecnt for this in a 2P config ? They are advertised as 55A peak current - though the spec sheets only lists them as 6c which would be round 40A. But then, they are also advertised as 35A continous which, after seeing your tests I doubt they are able to handle that load.
They may be able to supply the current, but there would be excessive heat. Thanks for watching!
It was not clear to me that the ET5420 disconnected the battery automatically at the end of the test, at a set minimum voltage.
Can the battery load test run unattended and safely terminate automatically?
Maybe I missed it...
When the voltage of the cell dropped to a set level, the test ended.
Is there a limit to the capacity this device can measure? I'm looking to buy this unit to measure 280Ah LifePo4 cells. Will it do the job?
For you the other version would be better. You can test up to 150V / 400w / 40A on a single output, the unit in this video does (2) up to 200W / 20A each. There's a sale and $20 off coupon, or the Honey browser extension may be able to save you more money. Thanks for watching!
bit.ly/2IOvEjX
@@electronicsNmore Thank you! does the device come with PC software to chart the discharge? Or do you make these charts yourself?
More than half of that initial voltage drop was due to the resistance in your wires and connections.
The best way to run that test would be if the load had 2 extra wires that were used only to measure the battery voltage at the battery, (a 4 wire connection) so the voltage drop due to the wire and connection resistance did not make all your voltage and power readings incorrect. you might want to check to see if your load has some feature or option where you could use the other two binding posts to make your measurements.
If not then you need to minimize the resistance between the load and the battery under test.
You can try soldering short pieces of copper wire to the battery tabs and connecting the battery to the load using the shortest possible pieces of that 10 gauge wire...
I am sure that tester works accurately for load testing at low currents, but because of the way it gets connected to the batteries, the error will increase as the current increases.
The result is that your published data is not fairly rating the battery, as the battery will always be better than your test results due to the voltage loss in the resistance of the connections to the battery.
Please investigate the use of 4 wire connections for load testing and also if your load tester has the capability of making 4 wire measurements.
You're correct, there was a voltage drop, even using #10. The good thing, I repeated the test with my DMM connected directly to the cell as it was discharging down, and when it reached the correct level, I manually stopped the test. Capacity was higher, but not enough to be a big deal. I think it was another 350mA. Thanks for watching!
Excellent testing. Thanks!
Did you happen to measure the cell's internal resistance during each of the tests? From the graph, for 15A, it looks like the open circuit voltage is ~3.59V, the loaded voltage is ~2.77V, so an internal (plus leads) resistance is (3.59V - 2.77V)/15A = 54.7 milliohms. However, your electronic load would do a better job. Again many thanks!
No. Just what you saw in the video. Thanks for watching Jay!
Very little peukert exponent. I think the biggest difference in capacity is equivalent series resistance of the cell itself. That would explain the temperature rise. As the load current increases, it would be more accurate to lower the cutoff voltage in proportion to the load current, but, you're right: there is a risk of over-heating the cell. I'll bet these cells would work really well in an electric scooter or E-bike.
Up to 20A they should work just fine. 25A would only last around 10 mins, but I think the heat would be well over 60c before the end of the test.
If that drop so fast from 3.6V to 2.6v it means that battery isnt good to use for hi current draw devices?
The battery voltage shown under load was higher than you saw. There was a voltage drop due to the wire/connections, the actual capacity rating at the high current level would be just a little higher than shown in this video.
It would make sense to actually use v-sense wires to measure the cutoff voltage since that's how every balancer and BMS works.
True. The capacity shown in this video is slightly lower than stated because of voltage drop across the test wires. Thanks for watching!
Nice video.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Whit my bike 37v battery I noticed that its ok to voltage to drop under heavy load. At the moment I use 24v controller to get lower cut of point. Whit two 12s 2p batterys voltage stayd up even whit full throttle. Now I can tune up the power whit 35a controller.
Yes, it can drop, but don't let it drop below that maximum discharge voltage. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore Yea, bms takes care of that :) I use top noch Delgreen.
Could you kindly tell which is the best portable LiFePo4 power station with high quality cells and as reliable as Jackery?
Hello Lily, the only LIPO power station that I know of, that's decent, is the one below. Thanks for watching!
amzn.to/2BxJfbQ
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
@@electronicsNmore Thank you for your help.
Thank you for sharing, bur this test is not very correct because you have not take in consideration the voltage loss on the cables. You should use remote sensing or at last use heavier wires. From my calculations you should lose around 300-700mV on the cables (around 20% of the total power).
Results are fairly accurate. For the 15A test, 12ga stranded copper wire was used, and for the 20A test, #10. The capacity results are very close to what was shown in a previous video where voltage measurements were taken at the battery terminals.
From the video it seams around 16-17 AWG, but of course you know better. Did you measure the voltage drop from the battery to the banana terminals?
@@s_amoku They do look small. If you look at the wires used for the 20A test, they're not the same as the wires shown before the 15A test. I have (6) wires. Four are 12ga and 2 are #10. There was a voltage drop, around .1V - .15V, but it only comes into play at the end of the discharge process when the voltage starts dropping off fairly quickly. The capacity is likely around 200-250mAh higher than shown, if you figure in the voltage drop. In the previous video, I tested these cells at 5A and 10A, while measuring voltage at the battery terminals, and the result was around 6200mAh.
Good video..
Glad you liked it! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thank you
ready don't worry. we will do what you want .. always success. thank you for your knowledge.
I didn't expect the voltage to pull down below 3.0V at the start of the test.
15 & 20 Amps is a lot, the voltage drop would've been a little less if it wasn't for the resistance of the 12" wires.
Thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks for your test. Compared to the spec page (30A or 6C continuous discharge current) they seems to be less than advertised? They should be more around 20A continuous discharge if I understand well your test. it just make me doubt I can use it for a project requiring important current. Btw they are probably still good for other purposes.
Many cells sold online are less, as long as the rating is close, I'm satisfied. Thanks for watching!
good video and well explained like
Thanks for liking! Be sure to share the video link.