great video, I was also wondering what that feature did. Although as maybe a small point, precision is different from accuracy. Precision is the repeatability of a value. Based on the video it seemed like the values were more consistent with precise wall on, but still inaccurate. Maybe using precise wall and an additional offset could help get both? Regarding wall order, it definitely made a difference for me, although it depends on how many inner walls you have. I'm printing channels in a block and it does make quite a bit difference along with adjusting the inner and outer wall line thickness so there isn't a gap or overlap in the preview (although this is kind of what precise wall does and could result in weaker parts but with better precision). Also the seam type can make a big difference.
When i used cura i never thought about walls. It makes closest it can and it was good. Now in orca, there is hoes in junctions, wall thickness is not good, settings are missing. But damn, never thought wall generation was a thing while i was using cura, it was always great
The difference in OrcaSlicer and Cura is a matter of control. With Orca, you tend to haver access to a lot more settings. With that said, I would use the slicer that gives you the best results.
For line width I have changed to using percentages of nozzle diameter instead of the precise values. I did this because there were no available 0.2mm and 0.25mm profiles for the Creality K1 Max.
Thanks for the Tests! For the repeatability, can you please add the info to the description witch Orca slicer version and which printer profile you have used?
I've been trying to print it with Orca Slicer and I get ridges after the initial layers near the curves. I believe this is due to overlap of the internal layers
Have you done a pod tune? A while ago, someone talked to me about a weird, ridgi g problem they were having, and I could not figure it out. Turns out it was an issue with the hotend not having a consistent melt.
@@minimal3dp that was kind of it! I was running my 0.4 nozzle settings. I figured it out and felt really dumb... I documented on my tech channel @randotechnerd
🤦♂️ Why would you try to use it with 1 or 2 walls? You even show what it does, and from the description you're showing in the video it's obvious that it's for when you have internal walls. But your model doesn't have any internal walls!!! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Note: Outer walls means external (surface) walls. The walls on the inside of the box are also *outer* walls, as they are also on the surface, namely the surface on the inside of the box. Internal walls would be walls which are completely surrounded by filament. Only the bottom layers of your model have any internal walls. Also, the precise walls option has an effect only if you use inner-outer wall order, since that's the only one where the external wall is printed after the adjacent internal wall.
This is blatantly wrong and false. Stop spreading misinformation. There is only one outer aka external wall. The one that you see from outside. All the others are internal walls. Jesus Christ 😂 OP, don't listen to him, he has literally no idea about what he's talking.
@@minimal3dp Did you ever rerun this with additional walls? If so, did it make any difference? Bottom line, should you use precise walls option or not? And under what conditions should it make a difference?
Have you tried with more inner walls? Seeing as the example shows tow, maybe it doesn't behave the same with only one. Could you check the outer dimensions of blocks printed with more walls and different settings? I think the main point of Precise Walls is dimentional accuracy, not wall thickness. It should give (at least) the same accuracy benefit as printing outer wall first without the under extrusion issues.
Youre measuring this all wrong. You need to be measuring a full filled cube. Walls in this instance is not your understanding if "walls" as in thin house walls, but rather it's talking about just the outer SKIN of the print. These thin little boxes demonstrate absolutely nothing because you're misunderstanding what precise walls is trying to do. You're actually adding DOUBLE walls with what you're doing here. This is adding two walls on both sides, so youre not seeing any benefit. There's no room for the inner extrusion to recede to if it has a wall right up against its back. Precise walls gives you effectively a corrected form of contour expansion, is another way to think of it.
Thanks for this. I saw that setting in Orca and was wondering what it did and whether it was beneficial or not. Now I know.
Ihadthesame thought when I started testing.
great video, I was also wondering what that feature did. Although as maybe a small point, precision is different from accuracy. Precision is the repeatability of a value. Based on the video it seemed like the values were more consistent with precise wall on, but still inaccurate. Maybe using precise wall and an additional offset could help get both?
Regarding wall order, it definitely made a difference for me, although it depends on how many inner walls you have. I'm printing channels in a block and it does make quite a bit difference along with adjusting the inner and outer wall line thickness so there isn't a gap or overlap in the preview (although this is kind of what precise wall does and could result in weaker parts but with better precision). Also the seam type can make a big difference.
When i used cura i never thought about walls. It makes closest it can and it was good. Now in orca, there is hoes in junctions, wall thickness is not good, settings are missing. But damn, never thought wall generation was a thing while i was using cura, it was always great
The difference in OrcaSlicer and Cura is a matter of control. With Orca, you tend to haver access to a lot more settings. With that said, I would use the slicer that gives you the best results.
@@minimal3dp cura not a viable option for bambu, thats why im switching
Have you measured the box size as the way I saw it it's the model size not so much the wall thickness?
For line width I have changed to using percentages of nozzle diameter instead of the precise values. I did this because there were no available 0.2mm and 0.25mm profiles for the Creality K1 Max.
This is a different approach that I have not tried. I might give it a go.
Thanks for the Tests!
For the repeatability, can you please add the info to the description witch Orca slicer version and which printer profile you have used?
I've been trying to print it with Orca Slicer and I get ridges after the initial layers near the curves. I believe this is due to overlap of the internal layers
Have you done a pod tune? A while ago, someone talked to me about a weird, ridgi g problem they were having, and I could not figure it out. Turns out it was an issue with the hotend not having a consistent melt.
@@minimal3dp that was kind of it! I was running my 0.4 nozzle settings. I figured it out and felt really dumb... I documented on my tech channel @randotechnerd
I had a 0.6 nozzle thank you for the reply
🤦♂️ Why would you try to use it with 1 or 2 walls? You even show what it does, and from the description you're showing in the video it's obvious that it's for when you have internal walls.
But your model doesn't have any internal walls!!! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Note: Outer walls means external (surface) walls. The walls on the inside of the box are also *outer* walls, as they are also on the surface, namely the surface on the inside of the box. Internal walls would be walls which are completely surrounded by filament. Only the bottom layers of your model have any internal walls.
Also, the precise walls option has an effect only if you use inner-outer wall order, since that's the only one where the external wall is printed after the adjacent internal wall.
Dang! you are correct. I will rerun the experiment with 4-5 walls.
Infil also has a lot to do with final measurements. They expand or contract the entire print
This is blatantly wrong and false. Stop spreading misinformation.
There is only one outer aka external wall. The one that you see from outside.
All the others are internal walls.
Jesus Christ 😂
OP, don't listen to him, he has literally no idea about what he's talking.
@@minimal3dp Did you ever rerun this with additional walls? If so, did it make any difference? Bottom line, should you use precise walls option or not? And under what conditions should it make a difference?
Have you tried with more inner walls? Seeing as the example shows tow, maybe it doesn't behave the same with only one.
Could you check the outer dimensions of blocks printed with more walls and different settings? I think the main point of Precise Walls is dimentional accuracy, not wall thickness. It should give (at least) the same accuracy benefit as printing outer wall first without the under extrusion issues.
I will try with a calibration cube.
Youre measuring this all wrong. You need to be measuring a full filled cube. Walls in this instance is not your understanding if "walls" as in thin house walls, but rather it's talking about just the outer SKIN of the print. These thin little boxes demonstrate absolutely nothing because you're misunderstanding what precise walls is trying to do. You're actually adding DOUBLE walls with what you're doing here. This is adding two walls on both sides, so youre not seeing any benefit. There's no room for the inner extrusion to recede to if it has a wall right up against its back.
Precise walls gives you effectively a corrected form of contour expansion, is another way to think of it.