Dialing it In! Orca Slicer 101: Mastering the Basics (Calibration) - Part 4
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- Опубліковано 30 гру 2023
- Print Like a Pro: Cracking the Code of Orca Slicer's Calibration Tests (Part 4)
Struggling with stringing, layer lines, or dimensional disasters? Stop blaming your printer! This video unlocks the secrets of Orca Slicer's built-in calibration tests - your magic bullets to perfect prints!
Say goodbye to:
- Frustrating trial-and-error cycles.
- Wasted filament and precious printing time.
- Mystery prints that look more like blobs than masterpieces.
Say hello to:
- Flawless, smooth prints that'll make your jaw drop.
- Precise dimensions even your calipers will love.
- Confident printing, knowing your settings are dialed in perfectly.
Dive into the deep:
- Master flow tests: Conquer stringing and over/under extrusion like a boss.
-Tackle tolerance tests: Ensure your parts fit together like a dream.
- Unlock advanced tests: Fine-tune retraction, temperature, and more for next-level printing.
This video is your roadmap to:
- Understanding each test and its purpose.
-Running them step-by-step with clear instructions.
-Interpret the results and make adjustments like a pro.
Leave your calibration woes in the dust! Join the ranks of printing masters with Orca Slicer's powerful tests. Hit that subscribe button for more Orca Slicer magic, and let's get calibrating! 🪄
Quick Links:
Minilam3DP Klipper Calibration Website: minimal3dp.com/
Klipper Calibration Spreadsheet: tinyurl.com/287waw78
Email: minimal3dp@gmail.com.
Minimal 3DP on UA-cam: / @minimal3dp
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Have you noticed that pass 2 is only negative modifiers? If your pass 1 is a toss up between 2 values, always go with the higher value. That way if the lower number of pass 1 was slightly under extruded your pass 2 examples won't all be under extruded. Always always always overshoot first when trying to bracket and dial in a value. It's always better to have slightly more material extruded than slightly less. Your print quality will thank you.
I had not noticed but I will check. I appreciate your advice and feedback.
This was fantastic. The 101 intro I have been looking for. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks
Amazing tutorial!!! i have my first 3d printer and its a Creality CR6 SE like yours, i tune up full thanks to your video!!!! Keep it up the good work!!! new sub and like!
When reviewing blue Flow Pass 1 printed plates, if you can't decided between two such as "0" and "-5", then always pick the higher number ( such as "0" in your example) as Flow Pass 2 will then include both of them again as well as steps between them. Perhaps "-3" is actually the ideal one, you won't know when you select the lower number in Pass 1 as its will not be within Pass 2 test.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
Thanks for video. One observation is you went into so much detail on everything else, but you completely skipped over how to run the PA test and went straight to measuring the print for it. For example, is the PA enable to be checked or not before testing? I think I have figured out from others that it should not be checked.
Thanks for the feedback. I will try to revisit PA in the future and go into more detail.
@Minimal 3DP can you share your settings values (apart of the calibration) on you CR6? Thanks again for this amazing tutorial and your help!
On your first pass you should have chosen the larger number of the 2 (0 instead of -5) at around 7:15
Pass 2 will roll the pressure backwards so will end up at an increment down to -5 anyway, this way you cover the entire pressure range you are most interested in.
Thanks for the feedback and tip. I appreciate it.
A Happy and Healthy New year
Thank you. Same to you and your family. I Hope all your prints are successful.
How nice would it be an utility that visually interpret all the Gcode lines to check what is good and what is wrong and not be testing directly on the printer as it takes a lot of time and frustration when something is wrong. I just suscribed to your excellent explanations. Or a Gcode online interpreter can do this?
I know there are some gcode interpreters but I can not tell you much about them.
Hey there. Cool video! Did you find a print profile for the V2 Neo in the dropdown menu or did you make it yourself?
I made it myself based on Ender 3 v2
Great video thank you my question is do I have to do the same test for every filament are use or just a PLA thank you and I don’t know why and I tried the very first test and it took me almost 6 hours. I have no reason why.
I do 1 test for all PLA. Tests take too long otherwise. To me, they take too long with just testing 1 roll.
Hi, thanks for the useful video. I'm learning so much from this.
For the pressure advance test however I can't seem to figure out how to measure it. I see you measuring yours at aproximately 5-2.5 centimers yet using 22mm (2.2cm) as a measurement. What calculations do you use to go from the 50mm to the 22mm?
Iught have to rewatch myself. I believe the measure should be 22.
Hey Mike, thanks for the great video! I'm printing the temp tower on my artillery genius. I'm using pla on the temp tower and set it at 230 - 190. I noticed on the display of my machine that the nozzle temperature is staying at 230 on each step. Did I slice it wrong, or is my machine just displaying incorrect nozzle temps?
it sounds to me like something sliced wrong. I would retry. Let me know how it goes.
@minimal3dp I tried it again, but instead of "slicing plate," I hit "preview." I searched through the code lines on different segments and found the nozzle temp line (I think it was M104), and it indeed changes the nozzle temp. Loading the gcode into the machine and watching the display shows the initial nozzle temp and never changes. So i'm thinking the display on an artillery machine is incorrect. Strange, anyways, thanks for the video and the support!
On the retraction test, if you do not have any stringing between the 2 towers, would you leave it at whatever the default was set at? It has some stringing but random stray stings that don’t connect.
I would leave it if you have not stringing. If you still have little bits of string on each tower, I might do a little experimentation to see if I can get it clean. If you are happy with it, leave it.
@@minimal3dpCare to elaborate on the experiment?
On the flow rate calculations at 11:41, shouldn’t it be 0.95 x (100 - -4)/100 = 0.988?
Some great informative videos. Thanks so much...I'm loving Orca coming over from Cura. Ender 3 S1 pro on rails X and Y running klipper. Added Aux cooling fan and enclosure! Even with a P1S I still use and love my E3S1 alot! Klipper is key!
Klipper is a game changer. I like it a lot more than marlin.
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the calculator?
I used my calibration spreadsheet. I have done several videos on it in the past.
How can I calibrate part cooling fab?🤔🤔
Is this slicer software compatible with the older Flashforge Creator Pro printers? The Flashprint slicer software that came with my Creator Pro when I bought it new just doesn't seem to have the wearwithall to get me where I want to be in terms of quality prints.
I was under the impression that Flashforge printers only recognized the X3G G-Code file formats that the Flashprint slicer software churned out.
I am really not sure. I don't have the printer to test it.
in orca slicer when I select Flow Rate - Pass1 the patterns turns up properly but after click the Slice button all the patterns jumps together (overlapping each other) is that normal?
That does not sound normal. Is brim turned on?
The problem I have with the second pass is they're almost all so smooth that I can basically pick one. I almost feel like I need a microscope or something to see details, especially on white, black, and the sparkly filaments to pick one.
I feel your pain. I try to print in a bright color so I can see.
Where do I got to edit the tolerance if I need to?
The test doesn't appear to be used to provide direct feedback to Orca slicer. However, in Orca under Quality > Precision > X-Y Compensation you can enter a number to alter the size of holes when printing. I have an M6 Allen key which measures 5.89mm with digital calipers. All the holes measure 6.0mm or larger and yet the Allen key would only go through half the .1 hole without significant force to push it, but slides easily through the .2 hole. I assume it's the corners which are slightly off. I set my "X-Y Compensation" to 0.1mm and the Allen key now slides easily in the .1 hole and the 0.5 hole is snug but fits, the 0 hole could be pushed through with force. The test print helps checking this, but not clear how the numbers on the print are supposed to help with it. This test is for dimensional accuracy yet flow rate was selected subjectively by what feels good and looks pretty. Instead use the cube or cube with top removed and 0% infill for a hollow box and then measure cubes with calipers. It's similar formulas to adjust flow rate based on size of cube and wall thickness. When flow rate is calibrated this way, the tolerance test seems to work better or just fall back on the "X-Y Compensation" when needed.
how can i reset all the settings on orca i made a mistake and changed all my settings on standard instead off custom
You should still have the defaults. Do you not?
I would keep using Orca slicer but it does not save my presets
That is a weird issue. Did you create a new profile?
I spent an entire day once making profiles and getting things the way I liked them. Then windows updated and I thought because of that my profiles didn't save. So I did it AGAIN. and closed it correctly. But it STILL didn't save. I have no idea why it does this to me. I have yet to figure out how to stop it. Had to abandon it for now.
Good video, but you totally lost me with the Pressure Advance....at 14:23, you that you are measuring 22-23 centimeters, which you correct 20 millimeters. My confusion is on where you are getting that value... I looking at your ruler, I am guessing the the height of what you are measuring is around 50mm. So I am unsure as to what you are actually measuring. Thanks in advance for your reply.
literlly guessing with that ruler, user a digital caliper, his settings are probably waaaay off
He is measuring the height of the best layer not the height of the part.
@@RStupplebeen Literally not how that works or what he was doing... (trying to do)
@@AlexSzymanowski that model he printed starts at the bottom with a higher pressure advance, and then slowly lowers it until it reaches an optimal setting (usually somewhere in the middle), and then continues to lower it until you start getting gaps and stuff in the corners near the top. He is measuring the distance from the bottom of the print, to the point where the pressure advance values give the best results, hence 22mm, instead of what appeared to be 50mm for the height of the print. My calipers measured the print height at 50.9mm, and my best layer height was 23.5mm from the bottom. he's doing it right, he just didn't explain it well, which is a shame for anyone new.
@@pineapplewafers you missed my point, you cant measure something that requires as much accuracy with a ruler... a $9 set of capliers isn't going to bankrupt the guy explaining how to do this "the right way" who then also proceeds to do it the jankest way...
I have turned off z-hop and the stringing goes away!
Thanks. I will take a look at that in my config.
test 1 best flow rate chip is -20. initial FR IS 0.98. ?????
I believe that the default in orca is .98 out of the box.
@@minimal3dp
Thanks for the reply, Do I need to revert that back to Prusa default of 1 ???
And the not basics?