What is the barrel adjuster and how do I use it? I will explain it.
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- Опубліковано 17 лис 2024
- What is the barrel adjuster and how do I use it? I explain it what it is and how you the rider are supposed to use it.
Email arthur@biketeacher.com
Mobile (408) 210-2980
Website biketeacher.com
This is personalized hands on bicycle mechanic training classes taught in a small setting meant for the beginner or advanced person. Typically one on one, a maximum of three persons occasionally. You are welcome to bring your bike to class to diagnose, repair or build. All tools and materials (including shop bikes) are provided to you.
Also offering certificates for the 40 and 70 hour class. for those seeking employment in the industry. Flexible start times to meet your schedule.
Location: San Jose California 95125.
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Please watch: "Let's bench test the rear derailleur and see how it moves."
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This video really helped. My rear brake was always pretty lackluster from out of the box and to be honest I didn't know adjusting it myself was something Id have to do. After a while of use I did figure out the front barrel adjusters a bit and it helped but always accepted it as the brake I wont be relying on for more than slowing down or in combination with the front for a fast stop. After about 350 miles I watched this video and learned that cables have adjustments on the brake-side end as well and now both brakes are working perfectly, better than ever. I was sure something was broken because I didnt know how to work these - thanks for the video.
You are so welcome. I’m glad you found it useful. This is one of my favorite things to share because it’s tool free.
Great video. Explained very clearly!
Thanks!🏁⚙️
Great video. Right to the point and explained in an easy to understand and follow format. I went right to my bike and tightened up my disc brakes. Thanks again.
Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback. 🏁
Thanks. A decent explanation that will be helpful. Well done.
Thank you Patrick. Have a great day. ⚙️🏁
Great Video.... very helpful. Thank you
You are welcome. Glad it helped.
Thank you! Very easy to understand.
Your welcome. Thank you!
Really answered all of my questions... Thank you... Maybe VI watched the wrong video
Your welcome. ⚙️
Not familiar with bikes, but was asked to adjust someone else's cable adjustment and found this video to better help me understand. The first thing that came to mind was that : isn't the 'barrel' the barrel shaped end 'blob' to the cable that slots in its position inside the lever?. So what does this adjustment have to do with that?; it is more of a sheathing to handle free play or backlash adjuster. Is it just a misnomer?. From a teaching perspective, would be good to go back to basics to figure out how you would come up with this device from the get go?. For example, it it were not cable, but a rod system, to design 'free play ' at the lever, you might put a link in there with slotted holes. And for a cable system, where the cable does not wholly travel in a straight line, and is sheathed to confine any 'out of position' movement, you can then dream up this device to give the variable free play at the lever.
That’s a very in-depth thought process. Preferably I would have this discussion in person to better understand your thought process. I’ll take a quick stab at it and say the variable of the brakes built in spring offers an adjustability that can assist you adjusting the brakes or offset unforeseen conditions.
It's good for wheeling? Please i need a quick answer❤
Thanks, this is an excellent video.
Thank you Gary! 🏁⚙️
Great video
Thanks!!⚙️🏁
My barrel adjuster it too loose for the cable cap. The cable just wiggles no matter what. Should I get a new barrel adjuster or lever system….?
Some wiggle is okay. You can replace the cable cap (ferrule cap) it may or may not be an improvement. The barrel adjuster may also be a solution. It’s hard to say what will be the solution. If your up to it, replace both. Keep in mind a new cable may be needed. The old one may fray.
I have a hydraulic brake set and when I untightened it and then tightened it again it seemed to be covered in oil. Could the threads be stripped or something else? Or is this normal?
Hydraulic brakes do not have an adjustable barrel. The nut you turned will disconnect the hydraulic line and fluid will be lost compromising your brakes. Be careful.
What should I do if my brake line came out from the barrel adjuster? I can’t manage to get it back in to stay. When I apply the brake, It pops out.
There must be some slack in still in the line or cable. This is allowing the cable to pop out. Start at one end and inspect, make sure at any and every connection the line is seated properly. Look at the other brake as a reference. It is a small detail that is causing this. If all connections look good then maybe cable tension is loose and a tensioning of the cable needs to be done at the cable pinch bolt.
So, I came to this video because I recently had to fix my back brake after the cable disconnected from the brake lever. And now, even though the cable's reconnected, I can't get enough tension to stop with that brake, because the barrel adjuster on the lever won't tighten now. And every time I squeeze & release the brake, the screw pops right out of the socket. No matter how much I try, it just won't screw back in right. So, I have to rely on my front brake alone. What can I do to fix this?
Sounds like you are saying the barrel adjusters threads are stripped and there is no purchase for the adjuster to stay put. I believe the adjuster at the lever should stay in place due to the cable will always be under tension. If it is popping out there must be loose cable or slack. You may need to remove the slack by loosening the cable pinch bolt and pulling the slack out there.
My wire is not being held in by the barrel adjuster. It’s loose and haven’t been able to ride my bicycle in over a month. I really can’t find anything online on how to fix it.
Sounds like a unique problem. That can be many things to consider. Here is a link that may help.ua-cam.com/video/QtEsz3k1Cxg/v-deo.htmlsi=oAx-lPvhtJvlxEZq
i cannot move barrel adjustment in any direction, please help me im so desperate.
Sorry for late response. Did you remedy it? Sometimes pliers are needed to unstick a stuck bolt or screw. Gently use a tool to apply a little more pressure than your hands or finger can produce.
Hello sir, my lock out(that thing near the barrel adjuster) is spinning continuously, it doesn't fit near the lever, i can rotate it endlessly
Either the threads are damaged and stripped or the barrel adjuster is completely backed out of the threads and needs to be restarted and threaded back in having full contact.
@@BikeTeacher and i forgot to say that the barrel can move freely without rotating
Plz reply me wire break wire stuck in barell adjuster 😢
I need help i think i stripped my front barrel adjuster for my back brake. The one on the handlebars. I am not sure what to do. I hear clicking now when i try to brake. Its not grabbing but looks like it is
There is a chance the aluminum threads on the barrel adjuster stripped so you may be able to replace it. Look on Amazon. “bicycle brake barrel adjuster”.
But you can always adjust the cable tension to your needs. It’s not as convenient as a barrel adjuster but it is doable.
@@BikeTeacher at the back I adjusted it now it just rolls freely and doesn't grab. Makes click noises. Well off to the bike shop I go. This is a mess lol. I just wanted to ride
@@BikeTeacher thank you sir
Good luck. ⚙️
My tube keeps coming out of the barrel no matter how much adjusting and tightening I do.
That means there is too much slack at the cable. Make sure all housing (tube) is secured at every stop or connection on the frame. Every junction point. You may need to release the cable pinch bolt, pull the cable right, remove all slack and retighten the cable pinch bolt.
Every time I try putting the cable through the barrel adjuster the cable on the wire won’t go through please help me
Same I don’t know how to fix it
3:21 I recommenced to use Wolftooth Pack Pliers or alike to tighten the barrel adjuster so it does not come loose, trust me they will come loose, I am speaking from experience, but don't use regular pliers that will bend the barrel nut, Wolftooth Pack Pliers won't.
Following film but on new bike have no brakes. H
Pulling handle goes to grip no matter what i do
Rim brakes? Follow the cable and housing from brake to lever and make sure all housing ends are seated fully. Anytime the cable has play is is loose that gives the housing a chance to fall out of place.
The right handle is loose and will not tighten with the barrel adjuster . Why?
Is the barrel adjuster stuck? I would inspect the entire cable housing looking for a disconnected section.
@@BikeTeacher I figured it out lol. I ended up posting a pic of it online and asked for help. Embarrassing but I found out I bought shifter cables not brake cables! I also discovered I needed mountain bike brake cables. I got mtb brake cables and all is good now. Thank you for your response!
Probably should have mentioned in your title if this was for the shifter or the brake.
Keep in mind if your brake caliper is single piston, this will not adjust the inside piston...
Correct. That would apply to the single-pad action cable disk brake. Hydraulic brakes (pads)will operate in unison. Although some hydraulic piston cups may not move in complete unison. Cups can be cleaned to rectify this but not always. It could just be poor quality.
Brake handle gets stuck, locking the brakes, when pulling the brake...
Check either the brake handle or the brake pad is getting jammed on on the rim. The pads may be loose and getting stuck just under the time braking surface.
@@BikeTeacher broken brake noodle, not sure what else yet.
I would not tighten the wire so much it pulls the caliper arm.
How I do it:
If it's very mich slack I loosen bolt turn the barrel adjuster in, pull wire apply thread locker like Loctite 243, tighten the bolt enough to secure the wire but not destroy it, but the wire will wear anyway.
I then can fine tune the brakes i hold the caliper arm, and adjust the wire tension with the barrel adjuster on the lever, I can feel when the arm starts to get pulled just when it starts to pull is where I stop, ease off, and then tighten the nut on the barrel as tight as I can by hand while holding the barrel, then I use Wolftooth pack pliers to tighten the nut so it won't come loose, and it will if I don't. Regular pliers will crimp the nut, so it will be stuck, but these don't. These pliers are perfect for the job.
I leave the caliper barrel adjuster as some are prone to bending especially on a full suspension bike, I had TRP Spyke i managed to hit one with my hand by accident snapping it off, on full suspension bike the barrel adjuster bent. I guess I could upgrade it to stronger barrel adjusters.
If brakes were used for more than a year the pistons can be worn, and turn in often resulting in inconsistent brake, if that is the case you need to replace them, but it might just be worn out thread locker, if so take out the pads, rotate the bike so the brake you work on is high, take the pads out, turn the pistons so they show thread, not so much they fall out, to do so I reccomend using a piston press, do both sides just enough to show thread, then apply Loctite 243 or alike. But if the area is dirt and threads too try to clean it first. Turn the pistons back in, put the pads back in, wheel, then adjust each pad and leave the bike for 24 hours or atleast over night for it to cure, if you can't keep an eye on it it will eventually cure anyway.
But if it does not help and it loosens on every ride it means the threads on the pistons are worn out.
Make a video bro, people like me watching this probably have never done this before. A wall of text just doesn't cut it.
@@SteveL11 good idea. I have some footage, but can't promise anything.
Stnmeyrx rd3 back
Sorry, I'll look into it. Thanks
Which way? I cannot see which way you are turning to go tighter or looser it’s so frustrating. All the way in means nothing
clockwise or anti clockwise to tighten or loosen the brake pull stop making it harder than it needs to be with extraneous shit.
Oh! Just think of the opposite happening turning aticlockwise (counterclockwise) the cable/brake will tighten.
I wouldn't use oil in any thread
You likely have a LOT to learn about how threaded fasteners actually function.
@@RK-kn1ud perhaps
@@gort3969 Here is my backyard mechanic explanation.
The clamping force of a fastener is what allows it to fasten. Threaded fasteners allow you convert a torque to a linear force. That linear force allows the fastener to stretch, which creates a clamping force. The easier you can turn a fastener without binding, the more accurate you can get a measurement of the applied torque to the fastener (among other benefits). Oil (or some other sort of lubrication) helps facilitate this.
If you simplify "oil" as "lubrication", lots of fasteners are "lubricated". Pipe thread is lubricated with PTFE tape, the head bolts on Top Fuel Dragsters (estimated 11,000 HP) are likely lubricated with an engineered lubricant or oil.
Are there threaded fasteners that I wouldn't lubricate? Yes, there are plenty. However, there are lots of threads I would oil. One example would be the threads on a compression fitting. You will find compression fittings on hydraulic brakes. A reduction in static friction makes it much easier to get a feel for how much you are compressing the olive.
@@RK-kn1ud your probably right I have no real understanding of these things.. I only know whenever I'm trying to loosen a bolt it always helps to lubricate it. Then you have products like locktite which also seem contrary to lubricion. If anything I want my bolts rusty and impossible to move lol
@@gort3969 Its all highly dependant on the application as you have learned.
Sometimes it's important, and sometimes it isn't. Sometimes it's not desirable, and sometimes it isn't.
Many fasteners require lubrication, but many do not. Some fasteners it's really up to you.
It's something that will only be learned with experience, tria/error, and/or some Googling.
You take over 8 minutes to explain what could have been done in 2 minutes. Far too much repetition and sidetracking.
Note taken. I guess I’m used to teaching someone in class who has no reference at all. Occasionally I will make a short.
@@BikeTeacher you're thorough in your videos. It's a really good thing.
Thank you, I try to reflect how I teach in class.
I think the video was great. Some of us need repetition :)
Thanks you for your input. I will revisit my deliveries.