Overhang Climbing Tips and Tricks for Beginner Climbers
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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Climbing overhangs with Sophia and sharing tips! Overhangs can be tough, but these tips I share with her can help you improve and potentially help you send your overhang project.
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I honestly think your videos are underrated, like I have been watching you for like 2 years now and I have improved my climbing so much because of all the help you give through your videos. I really appreciate it man, thanks for all the good content :)
Woah! Thank you for watching for such a long time, you’re a true one! Much love.
@@rockentry lol thank you for the content. A video suggestion I had was: doing challenges with Sophia.
Word. Totally agree. @rockentry not only are you a great climber (and super dude), but also a really good instructor. I think you have the skill to express thongs clearly and focused, as well as well visualized!
I really love this video, because it shows how different people with different strengths tackle the same problem, and how what works for some is impossible for others. I'm a lanky 6'1" dude with no arm strength, and I climb with a 5'6" Russian chad who does America Ninja Warrior (not Anton sadly). We have to do everything totally differently, but we're both climbing about the same grade at the end of the day. I always see you locking every possible move off and to me it looks like so much bonus work, but for you it's probably what works best! Would love to see Sophia in more videos!
Sophia completed the move without locking too, if you have the additonal muscle mass then it's possible to lock. Also if your body is smaller there will be less swing to control on many movements as bridging and compression is easier and results in larger internal angles on joints which makes it easier to keep the body in tension. If the larger climber has to fold more they may need to allow the body to swing as it would take way too much energy to control it then when they have slowed the swing then they go for the energetic move with more energy.
As a 6 foot 4 climber I will put more energy into training strength of compound movements like pull ups
Y'all got chemistry! Would love to see more
I was so psyched watching Sophia climbing from the start and audibly cheered when her cut loose but managed to heel-hook back to top the route.
Good content as always Os, hope to see more soon!
Thanks for the video! I actually tried the lock-off method on a project today where I had to cut feet and finally sent it!!
Omg that’s amazing and congrats!
@RockEntry, I’ve forgotten so much! I need to go back over your older videos. I’m pushing into 5.11 country now, and a lot of what you’re doing here is showing up on overhanging leads, LOL!
Lock offs are so useful. I definitely noticed more options once I learned about that. One of the first things a lot of climbers learn is to use straight arms, but it’s important to learn when to NOT use straight arms. (Of course, lock offs require some minimum amount of strength, which I didn’t have when I first started climbing.)
Great final send from Sophia! What a battle!
Nice video as always!
I agree...I have a current project that requires a lock off. It's like my body doesn't want to do it, though 😂.
Hi Rockentry, thank you for this video! I have recently started to work on my overhangs (trying to rely less on pull-up arm strength, and more on body tensioning). And your video has provided many helpful tips for me to work on in my training sessions. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Best of luck to you my friend.
Was dreaming about overhangs last night so I take that as a sign
Wow. She is so Nice! I also should learn how to do locking in.🤔
Off topic… awesome video and tips though! But where’d you get this pinky top from? 😍 it looks so nice to climb in!
Is this hangar 18?
Nice Gym, playing Polyphia there :)
Love your videos
Shout-out polyphia @ 4:04
I wanna climb with you too!!!!!
Now @rockentry idnlikentonsee you do that climb with my kind of weight 😅 im 118kg would love to see what would happen if you had to carry that extra weight 👌
He could probably get the pink route because all the holes are jugs but it would be pretty challenging. Being lean/light is very helpful in climbing, but strength and technique will take you a long way
Beta kinda worked, but not really. 🤣 Sophia gets camera shy like when you and @geekclimb had microphone in front of you (emceed my Reelrock 14 shoeing last year) - silence. 🤣🤘
Oh god.. I’ll never forget that day lol you were a natural!
🐱👤WHY are you able to climb ???
We are in the HARD lockdown. 😨🤮🙉
Bouldering ist too dangerouse for our health. ... they say!
I love overhangs... is also my weakness (with smaller holds). 😎
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I don’t think the mask fits on her face
Damn at 4:10 there is some Polyphia in the background, i hope oneday my gym will put music of that quality level
I went down to look for this comment xD
I actually work at the rock gym in my area and play Polyphia as they're currently my favorite band! I asked my coworker what he thought of 40oz for example and he told me it sounds like random noise haha.
Y'all are so bubbly and lovely! Get to enjoy the personalities and the climbing :D so good!
Thank you :)
Ok now I'm shipping u guys ahahahah
One other thing about locking off when going dynamic is that it's safer for your body. If you land with straight arms, unless you hit it absolutely perfectly, there will be a momentary shock load. When you're locked off, your muscles can absorb some of the impact. If your arms are straight, then it's all on the joints and connective tissue.
I can see Sophia progressed a lot since the begining of the video. It will not take her months to be better than you 😂
I know right, she’s getting too good too fast! She better be giving me beta in the future ;) lol
I found myself yelling “Go Sophia!” throughout the video😂 you guys are such a good duo!
Such a great teacher. Well done, sir. Also, the little hand-clapping Sophia does when she's excited is just too freaking cute.
Even tho I can't see you guys' smiles bc of the masks, I just know they're great! Really enjoyed this video, subbed :D
🐱👤Sophia looks very good on the cam.💖
Don't be shy! Great stuff.
Long hair are also half a kilo, I guess... 🤔
If you can climb these boulders, I'm pretty shure you cannot be sick.
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I just want to throw in the saying "if in doubt, campus it" which is very true imo. some move (like not often but sometimes) it's literally easier to campus them instead of staying at the wall.
that said, nice video, very much agree with your tips
Yeah I agree but it's much more of a bouldering saying, where yes campusing a move is easier but only when u just have to do a handful of moves after for the top.
At least make it rhyme !
"When in doubt, campus out"
Just like lead climbers say :
"When in doubt, run it out"
I got my first indoor V8 by campusing one of the harder moves (it was a cave route) 🙂
Hello friends! Question, what's the hardest part about climbing overhangs for you? what are you currently struggling with?
That all the gyms are closed
focusing on keeping tension with feet while throwing for a hold, also crimp strength and body positioning holding me back
Hopefully not for too long. Gyms are starting to close here too
Using less arm and hand strength. Need to use more legs/feet.
hardest part of overhangs for me is avoiding injury on crimps and pockets
i just came home from climbing and missed this video... died on an overhang too lol.
Love the knowledge you impart and all the positive vibes! Y'all have a great dynamic!
I loveee overhang, but sometimes I get stuck when I have to pull up and reach out. I’ll try to use these tips tonight :) thank you so much, love your videos!
love these videos, you two have great chemistry, very funny and light hearted mood but with a lot of good hands on technique tips/tricks! That pink climb looks awesome, i wish we had steep walls in my gym, i loooove overhangs/roof climbs
Some of the best tips for overhang climbing:
-Go fast,
-Keep moving
I really enjoy your videos! I am starting out and these videos have helped me alot 🥰
Yeah man, it's really really helpful to see two different levels and how you, the more experienced, can provide feedback. Awesome work man.
Thank you! Love to see a lady of similar size and built as myself, I am very new to this...and excited to try!
holy shit caught me off guard when i heard the polyphia in the background
Aight did I just hear Polyphia playing in the background on one of these clips or am I tripping?
I heard it too, definitely sounded like Polyphia
Thanks for this video, I’m just getting back to the gym after a long COVID hiatus and the body positioning and skills are so important while I’m getting my strength back. You’re both great.
I also wear a mask in my bouldering/climbing videos. I like that they have masks on.
I need to get under 200lbs.
4:00 polyphia in the backround broooo nice gym
Some deep flagging of the left leg way over to the right @4:17 through 4:27 helped a ton. When she got toward those positions, it made the moves more possible for her. The counterweight of the left leg in that flagging position with a tight core helps twist the body and put friction into the right hand and extend the reach of the left! I do like the contrast of watching you two climbers!
Thank you so much for sharing this useful advices, like I commented before, I'm building my own gym at home and the part under the roof is 45° overhang and that's really hard for me. But thanks to you, I'm seeing constant progresses !! Sophia is really lucky to have a friend and coach like you !
ship?
Y’all’s gym plays polyphia? that’s dope
I've never heard Polyphia being played anywhere beyond someone's personal playlist, man that was weird to hear a song from New Levels New Devils playing in the background earlier in the video haha
Looks like hangar 18 OC
Ok, I know it's kind of an old video but I just found your channel and I'm watching your videos "backwards" and wanted to say I really like your content especially with Sophia - it actually helps a lot to see someone of the same level solving problems AND you two are entertaining. c:
Your gym plays polyphia???
@@keyiyou7753 I was wondering the same XD
What do the color tags represent? Vgrades?
Im long time climber but overhangs are my biggest challenge so... Sophia, I can relate!. Finding your tips super helpful!
Great job Sophia! 😄 your videos always make me happy haha!
Another comment for an algorithm. :)
I like how Polyphia is playing in the gym
Guys any idea wich top Sophia wears ? I neeedzzz ittt
love the videos
Please finally kiss her, at the latest after the crisis 😉😇
#nevergiveup!!!
Nice couple
You two have super good chemistry and I love GOAT. Which was the song in the background lol
I’m working on an overhang problem and can’t land this dyno. Thanks for this vid, it really helped!
Not scissoring my feet is mine, the overhang is so crazy when you first start doing it.
Love the video, Happy belated birthday!!
Can I ask, where did you get your trousers (pants) from? Would really like to buy a pair:)
P.s. My favourite climbing channel on UA-cam😋
That pink route looks fun
Climb with Andy!
Always love watching your videos. They are incredibly helpful
Glad you like them!
Oswaldo… where do you climb? I want to make a cameo in one of your vids. 😁
What are the grade ranges for the coloured tags at this gym?
Some say this is the range and others say differently. I just go based on color when climbing at this gym.
White - VB-V0
Yellow - V0-V2
Green - V2-V4
Red - V3-V5
Blue - V4-V6
Orange - V5-V7
Purple - V7-V9
Black - V9-V11
I'm probably learning wrong technique because my arms are way stronger than my core. It's easier for me to cut feet a couple of times in almost any route.
Love your videos! I see that you're doing some filming at my home gym in Vegas. I hope to run into you and say hey!
IN MASKS - THIS IS SICK
polyphia 3:57 :)
I suspect taller climbers cut feet more on routes than shorter people do as putting pressure through your feet is harder when the holds are closer together
Hey guys if i am doing most v3’s and projecting v4’s what climbing shoe would be suitable for me? I am also quite light.
Hey there. I'm not a super experienced climber (mostly V3's, projecting 4s and 5s- 5.11+ on top rope) but I find that the choice of shoes really depends on what sort of climbing you want to do. I enjoy doing a lot of edging with my feet, and wanted to work on heel hooks and overhangs, so I chose a pair of men's Scarpa Instinct. They have super hard rubber toes, and a rather aggressive build that is good for overhangs, heel hooks, and toe hooks.
If you don't favor a particular style of climbing, or don't feel ready for more aggressive shoes, I'd recommend a neutral (flat soled) shoe. Neutral shoes are very comfortable and break in easily. You can smear just as well as edge in them. Because they don't have down-turned toes, they are at a bit of a disadvantage on overhangs.
If you're looking for something in-between neutral and aggressive shoes you could chose a moderate style. These are only slightly down-turned in shape, making them a suitable choice for more technical climbs.
In short, the type of shoes you buy depend on your preference (and budget). You get a lot of variety on V3s and V4s so any of the above shoe types could work for you. You mentioned that you are quite light. That shouldn't affect your shoe choice. If you go to a gym that carries climbing shoes, they'll probably let you test them out on the wall. You can try on several types and traverse or boulder a little in them to see if they work for you. It's best to try them on this way rather than ordering blindly online.
I hope this helped you! Don't take my word for granted- do research on your own. Have fun climbing!
On the last go it was great to see Sophia utilise a small flag of her foot out when she needed and a twist of the body to reach the final hold
he smashed
The music at that gym tho... Polyphia 💪🤩🤘
omg i'm in love with sophia
Duren
That gym has good taste in music
Love that gym! Great route setting there ♡
You guys omg
What grade / level is this boulder? It probably looks easier than it is.. Thanks!
Yeah, I’d guess around V2-3
Thanks! So it probably is doable.
Great video, very helpful, Sofia is great partner, love the energy!
Love your content! Something to be said about climbing with someone else that makes it even more enjoyable. I've been taking my step son to the gym with me 3x a week, and even though we climb at different levels it's so much more fun to have someone there to cheer on, and to cheer you on. Keep up the vids!
Super nice vid. Great work
Thank you!
@@rockentry You are welcome mate! I've just started climbing, and your videos are helping a lot, have to say!
Good tips but the masks dude.... I can't bear to watch this
I really thought you'd mention "opposite hip into the wall" rather than froggy style/square on the wall.
I can't belive those climbs are still up. Holy shit. Those climbs have been up for like 6 months now. What are they doing there? Glad I quit the gym. I'd be pissed that they haven't changed climbs in that long.
Nope, these climbs are old. It takes time to film and edit these videos, just so you know in the future. Also, I love this gym the staff is friendly and the setting is great. If they take a while to set because they are understaffed due to current situation, I wouldn’t complain. I’m just happy the gym was even open.
Hope you find one that fits your needs.
Sophia seems so cool!! This video helps a lot, I suck at overhangs lol
good tips and info smattered in here but majority of the content of the vid is the flirtation between y'all. Your other videos are much more concise and helpful