I like your soil mix, but 1 part Coco coir and 1 part potting mix, you don't have issues retaining too much moisture? I want to give this recipe a try but some plants in my home don't get the best lighting, would you recommend adding more pumice/perlite and bark for those plants?
This mix has worked really well for me but I do prioritize giving my plants the best lighting possible. If your plants are getting enough light to grow steadily, this should work well. If you are nervous about it, my first suggestion would be to add an extra part of bark so that the bark is equal to the potting soil + coco coir. If you really want to feel confident you can omit either the potting soil or the coco coir for an excellent mix that works for everything. This would give you equal parts of bark, potting soil (or coco), and pumice, which was my favorite mix for many years. I will say that it took me several years to get comfortable with trying wetter mixes like the one in this video but I finally realized that it works very well!
I don't suggest messing with the rootball if the plant has no problems. Thats crazy. Also not sure why you potted that plant, looked like it was missing soil how it just slid right out of there.. Just keep adding dirt into it and only repot when you gotta water it 2 or 3 times a week. I repotted one after a year. didn't report another one till 5 years. all depends. besides being sunburnt your plant looked fine. In that huge pot with the two plants that thing should be 8 feet tall before you have to repot bud.
This is actually pretty common with different types of plants. When they are repotted they have to start sending lots of resources to the root system instead of focusing on new leaves, so the first few leaves that come out can be a bit stunted in size. Many of my ficuses will put out a smaller leaf or two every year when winter finally ends. Any growth after a repot is typically a really good sign so I'd just wait to see how the next few leaves look!
The first culprit would be excess water retention in the soil. So I'd take a look at how often you water and how long things stay wet, along with dryness level before watering again. Then I would check that it is getting plenty of bright light. Without enough light, the soil will stay wet for too long, and so these first two go together in that way. The third one is too much INTENSE LIGHT. These leaves will crisp with too much hot, direct sun. I was growing this behind sheer curtains for a long time and it got TONS of direct sun filtered through the curtains - no burnt edges. Without the filter though it would get light damage pretty easily. So make sure you're letting it get fairly dry between waterings and give it plenty of light, but filtered if necessary. Good luck!
Yeah, I always water plants in thoroughly to help with the transition UNLESS they are being repotted and treated for root rot, in which case they needed to be given time to dry out a decent amount. But if you move things into a very porous mix then you can really water them in freely!
John , can you please tell us how one will know when to repot this plant or any other plant? What are the signs or signals to look for not just for this plant but for others as well which grow taller? I've been asking this question to many UA-camrs here but none of them answered me. Kindly help. 🙂
Hi there, it's actually really simple! When a plant is truly ready for a repot, it will require frequent watering. When the roots fill the pot, they will be able to drink up all the moisture within a few days time. When my plants reach the point that they need water consistently 2x per week, that is a clear sign that they are ready. Roots will grow out the drain holes long before they fill the entire pot so I would never use that as a guide. You will also notice that when plants DO require frequent watering, they will be very healthy and growing quickly since their wet/dry cycles will have sped up considerably. So it's really a good thing to let plants get rootbound. That way, when you finally repot them they will take off very vigorously in the new mixture. Thanks for your great question!
@@JohnDenneryThank you very much for the detailed reply. I've subscribed to your channel. I have Calotropis Gigantea white flowering plant in my garden. I've grown them from cuttings. And few days ago I tried to repot them since I noticed that the leaves were lifeless and almost like they were dead. I thought maybe the roots have filled the pot since one 10 inches pot has 6 cuttings planted in it but when I tried to shift them into 12 inches pot some root got broken because they were holding on to the soil very strongly but the entire pot was not full with roots either. This left me with some frustration. Since pots are not transparent or semi-transparent , it's difficult for a beginner like me to know and understand when to repot them.
Information is very important you can't just copy what other people do because the environment your plant is in will probably be completely different from this guy's for instance
Gorgeous 😍 I like how you have it like a tree, first time I've seen it this way and I really like it!
Awesome video! I like how you explained it all for us! Beautiful plant!
Great tips and it looks great 👍 Thanks for sharing.
Wow very nice looking rubber tree
I like your soil mix, but 1 part Coco coir and 1 part potting mix, you don't have issues retaining too much moisture? I want to give this recipe a try but some plants in my home don't get the best lighting, would you recommend adding more pumice/perlite and bark for those plants?
This mix has worked really well for me but I do prioritize giving my plants the best lighting possible. If your plants are getting enough light to grow steadily, this should work well. If you are nervous about it, my first suggestion would be to add an extra part of bark so that the bark is equal to the potting soil + coco coir.
If you really want to feel confident you can omit either the potting soil or the coco coir for an excellent mix that works for everything. This would give you equal parts of bark, potting soil (or coco), and pumice, which was my favorite mix for many years.
I will say that it took me several years to get comfortable with trying wetter mixes like the one in this video but I finally realized that it works very well!
Your white tineke is stunning
👍👍Thank you very much🙏
I love rubber trees and i have this tineke too...
Me too! I love ficuses so much, especially tineke. I hope you and your babies are happy and healthy!
Nice video
John, perfect timing for your vid. I was just about to repot my tineke and decided to use your soil mix. Thanks for the recipe!
Oh nice, Steve! It is such an easier mix than the things I used to use haha, I hope it works well for you!
I need the info that you shared. Thanks
So is this good for outdoor plants?
What kind of bark are you using in the soil mix?
Will pine bark be ok?
Yes
💚
I don't suggest messing with the rootball if the plant has no problems. Thats crazy. Also not sure why you potted that plant, looked like it was missing soil how it just slid right out of there.. Just keep adding dirt into it and only repot when you gotta water it 2 or 3 times a week. I repotted one after a year. didn't report another one till 5 years. all depends. besides being sunburnt your plant looked fine. In that huge pot with the two plants that thing should be 8 feet tall before you have to repot bud.
Hi, my Ficus Tineke is doing well after I repotted it, But the new leaves are very small. Do you have any advice on how to fix this problem? Thanks!
This is actually pretty common with different types of plants. When they are repotted they have to start sending lots of resources to the root system instead of focusing on new leaves, so the first few leaves that come out can be a bit stunted in size. Many of my ficuses will put out a smaller leaf or two every year when winter finally ends. Any growth after a repot is typically a really good sign so I'd just wait to see how the next few leaves look!
more light, no direct sun.
I have browning edges on mine, starting from the bottom. It looks worse than what you have. How do you go about diagnosing the cause?
The first culprit would be excess water retention in the soil. So I'd take a look at how often you water and how long things stay wet, along with dryness level before watering again. Then I would check that it is getting plenty of bright light. Without enough light, the soil will stay wet for too long, and so these first two go together in that way. The third one is too much INTENSE LIGHT. These leaves will crisp with too much hot, direct sun. I was growing this behind sheer curtains for a long time and it got TONS of direct sun filtered through the curtains - no burnt edges. Without the filter though it would get light damage pretty easily.
So make sure you're letting it get fairly dry between waterings and give it plenty of light, but filtered if necessary. Good luck!
probably burns. what kind of light does it get?
Do you water straight away once you repot?
Yeah, I always water plants in thoroughly to help with the transition UNLESS they are being repotted and treated for root rot, in which case they needed to be given time to dry out a decent amount. But if you move things into a very porous mix then you can really water them in freely!
John , can you please tell us how one will know when to repot this plant or any other plant? What are the signs or signals to look for not just for this plant but for others as well which grow taller? I've been asking this question to many UA-camrs here but none of them answered me. Kindly help. 🙂
Hi there, it's actually really simple! When a plant is truly ready for a repot, it will require frequent watering. When the roots fill the pot, they will be able to drink up all the moisture within a few days time. When my plants reach the point that they need water consistently 2x per week, that is a clear sign that they are ready.
Roots will grow out the drain holes long before they fill the entire pot so I would never use that as a guide.
You will also notice that when plants DO require frequent watering, they will be very healthy and growing quickly since their wet/dry cycles will have sped up considerably. So it's really a good thing to let plants get rootbound. That way, when you finally repot them they will take off very vigorously in the new mixture. Thanks for your great question!
@@JohnDenneryThank you very much for the detailed reply. I've subscribed to your channel. I have Calotropis Gigantea white flowering plant in my garden. I've grown them from cuttings. And few days ago I tried to repot them since I noticed that the leaves were lifeless and almost like they were dead. I thought maybe the roots have filled the pot since one 10 inches pot has 6 cuttings planted in it but when I tried to shift them into 12 inches pot some root got broken because they were holding on to the soil very strongly but the entire pot was not full with roots either. This left me with some frustration. Since pots are not transparent or semi-transparent , it's difficult for a beginner like me to know and understand when to repot them.
@@JohnDennery Also can you tell us the name of plant on the extreme right side in the thumbnail of the video?? The Dark green color one?
@@s.j.3247hi. The plant on the right is a fiddle leaf fig (also known as a Ficus lyrata
@@JohnDennery well said.
💚💚
You talk a lot get to the demo
Information is very important you can't just copy what other people do because the environment your plant is in will probably be completely different from this guy's for instance