DIY Hyperion Ambient TV Light Project (Raspberry Pi + Arduino) Complete Setup
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- -Check out my GitHub page for written instructions & wiring diagrams, including code for the Arduino & Raspberry Pi WiFi setup. github.com/shrocky2/Hyperion
If you are missing settings like Baudrate or something else I show, Go up the the WRENCH in the upper right corner and select "Settings Level"...Change to Advanced or Expert...They should show more options you may not see.
Why I use an Arduino - from researching the forums on hyperion-project.org the Raspberry Pi GPIO pins provide approximately 3.3V output, while the LEDs require a 5V signal. While many people have been able to make the setup work without the Arduino, other find the LEDs flicker and don't function properly. Alternatively, you could use a Level Shifter that would "Up" the voltage from 3.3V to 5V to solve this problem, but the Arduino was a simple fix for me. Feel free to look up "Level Shifter" in the forums.
::SOFTWARE::
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Arduino Software can be found here:
raw.githubusercontent.com/shr...
-Use the Arduino Web Editor here: create.arduino.cc/
-Software for Raspberry Pi (HyperBian) can be found here:
github.com/hyperion-project/H...
-To burn the HyperBian image to the SD Card use Win32 Disk Imager on Windows: sourceforge.net/projects/win3...
-To burn the HyperBian image to the SD Card use Belena Etcher for Mac or Windows: www.balena.io/etcher/
-Raspberry Pi WiFi Code can be found here:
raw.githubusercontent.com/shr...
::HARDWARE::
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Raspberry Pi (any Pi will work) I'll be using a Raspberry Pi Zero W ( amzn.to/3i3TfcM )
-Micro USB card for the Raspberry to install our OS ( amzn.to/2DFaUIT ) 4GB or larger
-Arduino Nano clones: amzn.to/3a0Pbr1
-WS2812B LED light Strip. My LED strip ( amzn.to/3gpbbON )
-Micro USB Hub ( amzn.to/2DENYJK )
-Micro USB Hub Alternative ( amzn.to/2ERbJj6 )
-HDMI capture card ( amzn.to/3qF3awm or www.aliexpress.com/item/40011... )
-or HDMI capture card with built in passthrough ( amzn.to/2FpvEoX )
-My HDMI Splitter has been discontinued, but this one should work ( amzn.to/3Dep4LS )
-Power Supply for Raspberry Pi ( amzn.to/3k9HaEW )
-Power Supply for WS2812B LED Light Strip ( amzn.to/30ruOA4 )
- While I'm not using a resistor on my setup and haven't had any problems with the LEDs yet. A 300-500 ohm resistor will help protect the LED strip. You would connect this resistor between the Arduino and the LED data in wire.
::SUPPORT::
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www.paypal.me/SteveDoesStuff - Наука та технологія
Two of the key points that you made were the importance of a common ground and suggestion to use a lower Device Resolution setting in the USB Capture configuration in Hyperion.
you sound like you know what you doing lol can you help me with this ill pay dead ass ill send you my discord if can =]
@@InSaiyanShinobi what are you struggling with?
@@GodIsBackAtAnfield I did the project finally I’m actually now trying to find a splitter with 2 outs and multiple ins and how to get Yeelight bulbs to work with this project
@@TheTarzan321 Yes, pretty much.. But it is not recommended..
@@arbbairagi does this also work for 4k tv?? and can it support 60hz??
i wish every tutorial was as straight forward and detailed as this one ,straight to the point
thanks for taking your time to explain everything in detail and thanks for helping out! a life-time project is finally finished.
This is the EXACT project I've been wanting to do.
Timestamps:
Hardware info 00:52
Power Supply 05:36
Light Installation 11:16
Arduino Software 14:19
Raspberry Pi Software 18:18
Final Thoughts 31:35
Amazing Project. I don't know much about Raspberry Pi but this tutorial was awesome and walked me through everything. It only took me 3 hours to get through this and have the back lights ive always wanted on the back of my tv. Thank you
Best DIY TV Ambi light setup instructions I have watched so far in UA-cam. Thank you so much for putting this together so neatly.
Awesome video, very interesting without any boring parts! Great job and thank you so much 4 providing us w/ all this information
Absolutely great tutorial. Not too tricky for those who have experience with Raspberry Pi and Arduino, but I think even a novice could follow along and be successful.
I have ordered everything and am waiting for the hardware. I'm looking forward to the project
Finally a project that just worked. I had a small problem talking to the knock off Arduino and had to enable advanced options to set the baud rate. I thought I could get away with no common ground, but once I soldered that we were money! Subscribed!
also had the same problem with setting the baud rate and this was the fix, thank you
I have a hyperion set up that I made, and the thing that surprised me about this video is the use of the Arduino. My Raspberry Pi does all of the LED controlling, no need for the Arduino.
bạn có một tourial?
@@amittk301 Check out Dr Zzs video on Hyperion.
I did wonder about that. I think my next project will be done withouth the nano.
and what is the answer? why a arduino is needed in that case?
I believe the specification for the LED's is that the data and power signals should be 5V. My guess is that this is why the arduino is in the mix, to provide 5V logic. However it has been demonstrated that the strips can work with 3.3V logic (which is also the Pi's pin voltage levels), although it is easier for them to become unreliable on long runs due to voltage drop. However in this case, with there is already a 5V supply, so if 5V where needed because the 3.3v from the Pi didn't work, it would be enough to achieve this by replacing the arduino with mosfets.
Do you have any experience using this with Hyperion android grabber? I have Hyperion on a linux laptop and a esp32 with wled running the leds and hyperion is communicating with with Wled. I have Hyperion android grabber installed on my Nvidia shield and it finds the hyperion server but its not working and i feel im missing something.
do you think pi zero w is good enough to run hyperion..? i been using my pc running hyperion and using platform capture do you think pi zero w is capable of this or would i be better buying a pi 4 ? thanks
hey steve, one question, would that also work with a yinice ambilight set (arduino china clon ambilight set with leds) in connection with the raspberry and the hyperbian image?
Steve, quick question for you. I bought a AC-DC power supply (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010CKUDZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). So I got my AC coming in on L,N,G. I got the strip connected to V+, V-. For common ground between the audrino/pi and the strip, should I connect the audrino pin 29 or pi pin 6'; should I connect either of those to V- of the power supply, or G? I'm getting confused if I want to be on V- or G.
Thank you so much. Exceptional work there! I don't know how to do all the work with the power cables though, but i liked what you did there and the final result! Nice keep it up! Thank you again!
Hello just want to ask are you grounding the leds strip to the pi or to the nano and what ground pin are you using? Any advice will be appreciated as its the last thing I need to do thanks
question: I want to do this for my monitor, but my monitor runs on Display Port so I can use the 144hz. now towards the end, you said that it'll only take HDMI inputs. So does that mean I am out of luck? Or do i need to use a display port capture card instead? and if i do, will the software support it?
Great video. Quick question, why use a separate Arduino as opposed to the Pi GPIO to drive the LED lights..?
Hey Steve , I needed this updated version, I did this awhile ago and it was annoying ticketing with the software, now it's web based it's more better and seeing the review is awesome. I had a go at it yesterday and with trial and error I finally got it to work, I had to use another sketch through as the one I used of yours didn't work, but mine works. Great tutorial.
Diddz's Tech Station. Care to share your working sketch?
I would also be interested in your working sketch, if you ever decide to share it.
Same can I use your sketch. Just all I get at the moment is when powering up the leds flat gbr then that's it.
@@AirZeee hey Stewart sorry for the lateness, I got my sketch from "the mad scientist" if you go on my page and see one of my videos the link to his page is on there..
YOU ARE AWESOME DUD! IT WORKS FOR ME, I followed every single step given by you in Video :-0 XOXOX
nice video!
How bright are the LEDs? Bright enough to notice the effect with room lights on?
If you don't see "baudrate" when selecting the led hardware, change your your settings level (wrench icon) to advanced. This was blocking my leds from firing up. It flashed on changes but didn't react on the hdmi source.
Great tutorial btw!
Thank you very much, it helped a lot. it almost landed in the trash :)
Wish I had known that. I set the log to debug and saw that by default it was communicating on 115200. Didn't know that setting to advanced would do that - I just went back and edited the Nano in the web editor with the baudrate and then mine worked.
This helped me finally get mine working. Thanks bud 👍
I really appreciate you showing everything. About the power supply though... Some don't have color coded cables. Also, yes you'll need to bridge the connector or get an adapter that does it for you... This is all fine. What might not be fine though is that a lot of power supplies don't deliver an appropriate amount of voltage and amperage on the 5v rail if there is no draw on the 12 volt rail. Also, depending on the number of leds you may need to introduce power half way in between as well as at the end.
Muito, muito bom. Você explicou todos os detalhes, estarei executando este projeto em breve em minha TV OLED 55" com PS e uma BOX TV XIAOMI com uma fita de led WS2813 (60 leds/metro), logo voltarei aqui para dar o feed back de como ficou. Este é o melhor projeto ambilight que já vi. Obrigado e congratulations.
HDMI capture with pass through cost about 5 dollars more for a lot less hassle
Thanks Steve for the video. I have couple of quetions, could you please answer them when you get a chance?
1. i have my inputs (Roku, Firetv, Xbox, laptop) connected through receiver, i understand that the receiver out should be connected as input. Please confrim it is correct?
also i use ARC channel from TV and pass it out of receiver what would you suggest in such scenario?
2. do you suggest one box that would fit all the equipment (similar to one you have on the wooden block).
Is there any options to get PS5 (HDMI 2.1 48Gbps) data with HDR 10+ through to the TV while sending the signal to the Raspberry pi for use with Hyperion? I wasnt able to find any splitter or passthrough with copy/capture.
Hi Steve i have built this, but only the first 3 leds light up. When it is alle booted, i can see the live view in the hyperbian monitor but the leds do not show. I tested the leds with a generic controller they seem to be just fine .....so the leds are not broken. Do you have any idea where I might went wrong ? Greetings , John
Great video perfect timing been looking to do this as I have been using prebuilt kits from a company that went under so Im tied to their limited product. I have 2 questions 1. What is the colors video you were testing with 2. Are you aware on any limitations with Dolby Vision HDR or Dolby Atmos along with 4k? Thanks
Steve Does Stuff! Thanks.
Thanks for putting us through on this project.
I have done mine and it's working fine.
I'm using it on a Samsung smart TV.
🇳🇬
hey steve, when adding the wifi login info to the wpa supplicant file do i need to leave in or delete the quotation marks? Thanks
@@Steve_Does_Stuff thanks, totally new to raspberry pi. I'll give that a shot
Great video! I've been looking for a version of this project that has updated hardware. Nice! Also, what is that screensaver in the intro?
Hi, Will It work for 4K TVs? Do I need a 4K capture card? I read somewhere that the output sources should be same meaning if I used 4K TV and 1080 p monitor then I will get 1080 on TV and monitor. Is it same while using a hdmi capture card? Can I get 4K output on TV even if I used the basic 1080p hdmi capture card?
Great build! What are the RGB strips with more lamps per foot that Steve mentions? Would it be possible to feed this thru a chromecast / cast device?
Great Video! my question is does it introduce lots of latency? for example when actually gaming?
When I try setting up a gap for my tv stand it messes up the LED count and the layout is all out of wack any ideas how to fix this
I have ws2811 led light strip that say they are individually programmable. Can I use those or will it be best with ws2812b lights?
Great guide!
I'm a complete begginner in this kind of things, and i'm ordering the parts right now!
I only have 1 question (dont know if i missed something), on the Arduino, you only connect the usb (that goes to the splitter) and the D6 pin (that goes to the DIN on the led strip). There is no need to supply power to the Arduino? Through the 5v pin on the arduino?
I would really appreciate if you could help me and clarify this for me.
Thank you and great work.
I wanna a big THANK YOU to you!! Amazing video and great explanation... really helped me a lot...
Looks really sweet man! What's the largest size TV you could set this up with that LED strip?
And it looks like that there is some delay in picture and backlight on the wall is presented, did u fixed it later or it's fine for u?
Try adjusting the smoothing settings in the image processing. I had to adjust mine to about 100ms to make sure that the lights were more in sync with the image
Will this project work with a 2 in X 4 out 4K HDMI splitter? 2 inputs for fire cube/stick and gaming console. 3 outputs for fire cube/stick, gaming console (both going into tv) and capture card.
nice video Steve, gonna try this out as a first project, wish me luck. Will this work for a PC? and guessing so even though I didn't hear it mentioned. I know this is 3 years old video but since I know little, is there anything that might be upgradable as far as anything that was used that might be better now that would be setup in the same manner? Thanks for your time.
Can we use RPI zero (without W), just plug in any serial ttl for SSH or ethernet port...configure everything once correctly, and then forever disconnect from the internet?
Awesome video! I have a question though. Your using the HDMI capture card to connect the video from various output devices. ie cable box, Roku etc etc. But what do you do if your output device is the TV itself? I have a Samsung Smart TV and we use the Samsung apps to watch UA-cam, Prime Video, Netflix, Hulu etc etc. What do I do now?
Hi Steve, is it possible to replace the video capture card with a hdmi to csi-2 pi module for this project and still make it work?
Thanks a lot. You have made this whole process simple.
From another Steve that does stuff, thank you sir!
Just a heads up I ordered the same LAFVIN Nano 3 pack and it seems like they updated the boot loader because it made me use the stand AT328P flavor
I had a problem building a second one of these for a relative after building one that worked first time for me. The problem was that no leds light if the number of LED was > 255 My strip was 230 - worked fine, the one I built but wouldn't work was 285 leds long. I only traced the issue by swapping 2 nanos, the one with 285 wouldn't light leds, the 230 one would in the same system.
I think the problem is in line 95 of the nano code
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { setting i to be uint8_t limits it to 255, so it cannot set more leds, by changing this line to
for (uint16_t i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) {
that limitation is removed, and my led strip now lights and the loop can set led strings longer than 255 leds
Hope that helps someone - and thanks to Steve for very clear instructions
hi where do you edit the code for the nano?
Fixed my issue with 360 led’s!!!
@@allyirfan8663 in the arduino sketchup
Just wondering do we really need an arduino for this project? there are lots of posts on the hyperion forum & some videos on youtube as well talks about setting it up without the arduino! Anyone with some thoughts? whats the difference w/o arduino?
Hi Steve, that's an outstanding tutorial. Keep it up 😘
So is a common ground between the RPi and Arduino as simple as a wire connected at a ground pin on both? Does the wire have to connect to anything else or just bridge the two boards on ground pins?
Great tutorial! Just curious - I noticed that when my TV is off it cuts power to the USB port. I'm wondering if I could use this as a way to automatically turn the lights on/off when I turn the TV on/off. I would basically use the USB port on the TV to power the Arduino and Raspberry Pi, then run a ground wire to the LED strips so they all share a common ground. I would then run power from power supply to the LED strip. When the TV shuts off, it would cut power to the Arduino and Raspberry Pi, which would turn off the LEDs. I could then plug the power supply into an Alexa smart plug to allow me to turn off the LEDs if I wanted to watch TV without them on. Do you think that would work?
Does this work when you have video playback at 4K@60fps? I'm hoping to upgrade my ambilight whenever I can get a PS5
Hi Steve. I am interested in this project however for me the lighting will be around the wall rather than the TV meaning I need 10 metres of strip. This will infact need to be two 5m strips. Can I make hyperion work therefore with two nanos, left and right kind of thing?
I have a Lifx z LED strip, think I could hook it up to this? I really like color and brightness of the Lifx strips.
Hello, how are you!? would it be possible to remove the raspberry if you connect an hdmi in (Chromecast or fireTv stich) to the hdmi hub? so it would be hdmi out hub for arduino and tv
Great job man. I created a video on my channel just without using a rpi and hdmi capture card. Only works with pc connected. But I will try out your method. If I create a video from it I'll make sure to mention you and credit your work. Cheers.
I liked your video too. I use a PC for everything on my main TV, and I already have a Arduino nano and a power supply I can use, so I think I'm going to try your method.
Is it possible for you to show the grounding of the black wire if we were to choose the two power sources and not one?
I've messed with computer power supplies alot for projects. I'm currently mid-way through a project where I'm trying to power a electric adjusting car seat with a computer power supply + an Arduino with a Can-bus attachment to trick the seat into thinking it's in the car, So I can use the original car controls for the seat.
I've created a latching circuit, with a relay just because it's mimicking a car with ignition and then start button, but I feel you could have just put a small switch between the switch wire and ground (green+black) and put a tiny switch on the front of your TV mount or something? This switch could have long wires hiding nicely in your TV stand.
Or use the Arduino as a switch, there's must be a simple on off output module or relay module you could attach or such idk but fair enough the plug works albeit more cost and more items for you to rely on WiFi working, I've had issues in the past with smart plugs so I avoid them like the plague🤣
Here's a video skip through until you see the very crude wiring diagram I drew in paint 🤣
ua-cam.com/video/cMJ29q1kVFc/v-deo.html&ab_channel=shellcool0wns
24:40 is a good starting point I explain the circuit
(The video was aimed for my two friends who are not electrical minded atall, so sorry for the dumbed down parts and using other people's names lol)
Great video! I'm trying to get this to work with a raspberry pi zero w and i cant get my capture card to work with hyperion. It comes up as USB video but nothing shows up on the live stream (i have made sure the USB capture device works with my laptop). I think it may be some kind of power requirement problem because when i plugged it into my computer it got warmish and when Its plugged in and recognized by the raspberry pi it stays cool. The raspberry pi is plugged into a 2A ipad charger. What is the amperage of the power supply your raspberry pi is plugged into. Thanks.
I think you should use a 3 amp power supply because the arduino and the capture card both are taking the power from your rpi
Thanks for producing this video - definitely my next project.
I have a smart TV and don't have devices plugged in (e.g. no ps4), how do I make use of the capture card in this scenario?
An old Xbox 360 power brick is cheaper and smaller. Check one out to use for things like this. They have 5v and 12v out and would probably give more than enough amps for the whole project.
Looks really good though.
Hi, have you connected your setup to a smart hub such as home assistant? so you can automated the turning on and off the lights?
Amazing project all work perfectly!
Thanks for great work i have mine up and running. Just want to know does the resolution and fps affect the quality of the light?
Like higher resolution is better? Or higher fps is better?
What im loosing if i lower resolution and fps?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Thanks, it does affect the light.
Could you pls make a video on colors calibration
Keep up the good work
Thanks for the awesome video!
I have a question about the video adapter. is the HDMI splitter lowering the video quality from 4K to 1080p?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Hi Steve, I got the HDMI to USB video grabber that you recommended today. I connected that to my RPi (Model B Revision 2.0 512MB) and I can't see anything under the Hyperion LED Visualization window.
I was just trying to see if I can see the image in the Hyperion server from my laptop. Any suggestions for me?
*Update* I tested the USB Video Capture device with 2 windows 10 machines and the device works just fine.
Do I need to have an updated Rpi?
Nice, what do you recommend for 4K? Having trouble finding a 4K splitter!
This is the cheapest 4k60splitter I have found smile.amazon.com/OREI-UltraHD-HDMI-Splitter-Port/dp/B07J2Q9NPH?sa-no-redirect=1 What I do not know is a HDMI input device that accepts a 4k60 input.
Thank you. Needed a new project.
Is there a way to minimize the stepping look, like when the leds are at a glow then go to full brightness and then back down...
Also, my lights seam to be behind the colors on the screen, is there a way to have a faster response?
Hey Steve! Really enjoyed the video. Absolute novice at this stuff. I have an old windows mini pc laying around and was wondering if that could be used to directly control the LED strips using the hyperion software instead of going through a raspberry pi?
Were you ever able to use your old windows mini pc like you were asking?
HELP! Followed your tutorial to the letter. However when changing the LED hardware to "adalight" under the USB tab, it doesn't then give me any other drop down boxes? So confused and feel like I am falling at the last hurdle!
Answered below but just in case. you have to change the settings in the control panel. Top right, change the settings level to advance/expert and those extra settings will appear. This is what had mine not working for like 2 hours. Thought the software was upgraded to autodetect or something, nope, have to change the settings level to see them.
When I plug my audrino clone (same one you have) into my Pi3, go to COnfiguration > LED Hardware. Set controller type to adalight. Under Specific Settings all I see is an output path that I can set to USB0. I do NOT see baudrate
question, if we take the signal from the hdmi ARC who normally go to the sound bar, perhaps there is also the video signal?
Good gravey Steve!!! Thank you soooooooo much !! You helped me immensely. One quick question if I could . Have you had any problems with the black bar with this set up !?!?!?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff awesome 😎👍 you're the man Steve !
Thanks for the guide Steve! I followed your guide to the letter, including the items purchased, and the only problem I had was the Raspberry wasn't talking to the Arduino - I think it was due to baud rates - in the most recent version of Hyperion, there is no option to set the baud rate (about 25:54 in your video) for the Led Controller Output path (some other comments indicate I could have set it to 115200 in the Arduino code?). I ended up following some of the other suggestions to forgo the Arduino altogether and used the ws281x controller type, and connected LED the data wire directly to the Raspberry on pin GPIO18 (and ground). Even though the Raspberry only has a 3.3V, the LEDs work great. My 65" TV ended up with 268 LEDs and it works. Thanks again!
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Well, it ran great for the last 3 weeks, but stopped working today - Hyperion is still working, and i can see the video feed from the capture card, and the LEDs still work, so I suspect that the GPIO pin on the Raspberry has burned out? I’ll update here when I figure out what happened.
After tinkering with it, started working again. Not sure what changed.
@@mikehatch4478 You should use a level shifter for the data pin, like a 74ahct125n to shift the 3,3v to 5v. you could also put a resistor in front of the data line, it's often recommended. May I know if you are still using your setup?
Best video I've ever seen so far. U deserve more like and subscribers 💯💯💯💯
Really cool video!! I can't wait to try it! :D
What's the latency like on this? I've seen many of these things and the latency has always been noticeable, it may look good with the content you are using but what's it like when instantly changing from one colour to another?
Would i notice an input lag using thr hdmi splitter if i would do that project with my pc monitor?
quick question what about capturing what's on screen when the source is not HDMI / TV out but on a Smart TV that is playing OTA content. which doesn't require any external connection?
So i got it working, couple things to note that may help others:
1.) I used the nano clones (the first link recommended on Steve's github) but when writing to it, I had to choose ATmega328P; the first one in the list. NOT the bootloader. When trying bootloader, I got errors when trying to write to it
2) Maybe its obvious but took me a while. If you are using MORE than 110 leds, you must change that number on line 4 of the sketch. I opted to buy the led strip he recommended, but with 2x the LED's and couldent figure out why only about half the strip would light up. Was about to rip it off the tv when I realized I needed to change the number in the sketch (as well as Hyperion of course)
I got lost around 6:50 mark. Is there any soldering if I am using the power brick instead of the power supply?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Ty for answering! I have a few more questions. Does the power brick and LED strips all attached to each other via a connector then? Since no soldering is required. Lastly, if I want to watch content that is 4K/Dolby Atmos at 60, does the capture card and splitter have to also support 4K at 60?
...What is that animation / screen saver "thing" on your tv ?
what's a good drive for windows 10 for the the clone. i can not get it to upload for nothing. i've searched google up and down and can't find a solution that works.
Sorry if this is a stupid question but could I use the LED power supply to also power the pi?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Cool, thanks very much.
have you used the Hyperion color calibration wizard?
greatscott did this project but didn't use any arduino ,just a rpi
but he used a 12v strip and a different strip type ,
i got that strip type ,it was like 3 times the price i think (it was like $60 but not sure the length now but it is just enough for my old 50" TV with huge bezels)
do you actually need a arduino or can you use the GPIO on the pi?
and i wonder if i can use that strip type for this setup
Great Scott used the AP102 strip.
That has four wires, live, ground, data and clock. It works off 5 volts not 12 volts.
The RPI GPIO pins work at 3.3 volts. I'm guessing this was just enough for his led strip to work. But normally, you'd need to boost the voltage to 5 volts. This video used an Arduino to boost the voltage, but a voltage stepper chip would have sufficed
@@CharlesLGoodwin he didn't power the stip directly from the pi zero he powered it separately and just connected the grounds from the strip power to the ground from the pi , you have to power the strip separate no matter what , you could not draw that kind of current through the pi without burning it or having it shut down from low power i don't think
i am just not sure how his version get away without using an arduino and all the other people i see making this kind of project is using an arduino
@@andreamitchell4758 You are quite right. I should have made myself clearer. The strip is indeed separately powered but I was referring to the clock and data wires. The led strip prefers a 5v voltage level for the clock and data wires but Scott gets away with just using 3.3volts fed directly from the RPI GPIO pins
@@CharlesLGoodwin oh I see yes, you mean 3.3 volt logic as opposed for 5v logic
Yes we'll i will have to look into that
If it were the other way around it could have been a problem ,I have used FTDI serial interface for arduino pro mini and for flashing things using esp8266 and I have heard of people who forget to set the jumper or the swift on their FTDI to 3.3 and leaving it on 5v burning the board in the esp device they are trying to flash
Dear Steve
I'm evaluating from some time Raspberry Ambilight system so in the last months I buy the Leds strip and so on.
I'm ready to start when i watch your very interesting video to use usb hdmi video grabber that I found simple and better that previous analog system.
Now i have some question if you are able to answer.
I will use raspberry only to manage led strip
I will use apa102 LED type.
1) may i use only raspberry to manage Led (Using Raspberry) GPIO or is necessary also the arduino ?
Thanks Giorgio.
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Hello Steve, thanks for the answer. I will use apa102 Led and I think to power it with a 5v dedicated power supply I think to use raspberry only for clock and signal. Do you think it is possible ? How i is possible now to use the cheap hdmi 2.0 grabber, it is because of hyperion new release that support it ?
Thanks.
Hello ;) if i have a raspberry 3 than i also need a Micro USB Hub ? or all usb go to pi ?
@@Steve_Does_Stuff one more question :). In adalight Controller type I have only General Settings
RGB - byte order
and Specific Settings - Output path
The only thing that reminds Adalight is atmo. can it work like this?
So this was a great tutorial and helped me with a lot of understanding the components of the this project. Great job. The only question I have is around 30:50 when fixing the order of LEDs. Does the strip just start working automatically? I got up to that point and my LEDs are just not responding. They do flicker red, green and blue when I change the order but that's about it. Thank you again for the tutorial.
Awesome video man!!! Just a quick question what was your overall cost for this set up, I guess I could price it up myself, but feeling extraordinary lazy today with the gloomy weather forecast 😂😂
Dude! Thanks a lot. It's clear and step by step so even my mom could make it!!! Well, if she could understand English :)
Thou it is super-understandable, the whole project with a chunk of wires and an enourmous PC AC\DC adapter... made me think once more. And yep, thanks for that, even!
Have you done this with an A/V receiver as the source so you can have multiple devices
Hi, I'm gonna bother you with another question. Can you also power the raspberry pi via GPIO pins using the red, white wires from the LED (the ones meant to be extensions if you wanted to add more LEDs)
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Thanks! Super helpful.
Is there a way to make Hyperion Ambient work with DisplayPort, G-Sync/FreeSync/Adaptive Sync?
Hi Steve, does this work with HDR content? By that I mean do the LED lights still change color weather or not the content is HDR?
So one follow up question to this. I have found a HDMI splitter that supports HDR and HDCP 2.2, but does the capture card need to support these two standards to output the right led colors? I know the resolution is not important, but is the capture card able to read the data?