Learned a lot and appreciate your innovation. Wondering what would happen to add a waste oil drip to that setup. Or wondering what an effective waste oil mass heater would look like.
Very nice! But your last part of the video where you explain how the hot air leaves the oven is quite unclear,do you mean you have created two chambers where the air is forced to go through IN THE HEAT OF THE OVEN,OR OUTSIDE TO MAKE IT HEAT THE AIR IN THE ROOM. Please make a principple drawing of where and how the airflow goes.
The oven? The last part of this video was me cleaning out the heat reclaimer, and that's just a pipe through another pipe. Heat rises, and when the heat reclaimer is upright and connected. Air from the room rises up through the inner pipe as it is heated from the exhaust going through the bigger pipe, which surrounds the smaller inner pipe.
I wonder if you were to fix a type of metal element, a bit like one inside an electric oven, and fit it to the inside roof of the stove . It would have to be made up of a very light gage material in order for it to glow red hot, it should act just like an added electric bar fire. This might add or even double the strength of heat output, but only assuming the element was capable of glowing red hot. The only downfall i can think off, is that the heat source may burn quicker ?. Thanks 4 sharing and By the way loved the added pressure point at the very end of this video : )
Look into dual fuel forced hot air furnace you can probably find a used one best brand to look into would be a thermopride. Have it inspected then you can take it all apart and re-engineer it for ur needs just make sure the removable metal jacket housing will fit back on and no one knows the difference. It probably would qualify for ur insurance company even if u only use oil/gas burner for less then a minute as ignition source for the wood
Thks & I don't mean to sound shallow; However maybe you can just put-in the cheapest/smallest/simplest/etc possible whole house heating system that home insurance will aprove & never really use it. Ex: absolute minimum compliance to a law vs complying to the true-spirit of a law Oh since you said the dynamite box is fake, now you can keep dynamite in it & no-one would ever think different ;)
We probably will do some type of whole house heating in there, as we would like to use that place as a guest house when visitors come. I know the Ins. Co. won't accept plug-in type electric heaters, (because I asked); everything has to be directly connected. With electric I would probably have upgrade the service for that, I have propane available in there, so I might do something that way. Thanks for your input!
@@doubleMinnovations you may not have to have the service upgraded for a heat pump (this should work for more of the winter as the climate changes, and it can also give you air conditioning if set up correctly), or if an electric resistive heating system is weak enough (I don't recommend this)
I called my county planning office. They insisted if it was set up as a dwelling then it is one. I didn't think that included a wood stove though - I just have a hut that is primitive. Technically if it is just used "occasionally" then it is not "occupied" as a dwelling, even though I have a wood stove. My neighbor lives full time in his cabin that he doesn't have permitted as a dwelling. Kind of funny actually - he knows what he's doing and his dad was a county zoning surveyor - so they have the connections. haha. I'm sure they don't have insurance though.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 In the county where we live, you only need an a road address to have a residence. They don't care what you live in, or how you live in it. Don't even need a building permit. If you want something insured though, you have to follow what the insurance Co. wants.
@@doubleMinnovations There is another question you just may be able to help me with. The damper on the flu pipe is real lose cause I burn wood that has a moisture content of 1 to 4 percent. This causes latterly no creosote to be formed, which makes the damper really sloppy and does not have any detent which makes the flapper be able to change position on a windy day. The spring seems really weak from the heat. How would I tighten the damper ??? A ball park figure was what I was asking Sir. You do not have to be exact. I can tell my my bill is 1200 roughly. Thanks and peace too. VF
The first thing you could try, is squishing the stove pipe a little so the damper would have some friction. Or replace the damper; -they are not that expensive. You may have to replace the section of pipe the damper is in, if the damper is deteriorating because of the heat. Peace!
@@doubleMinnovations Thanks for the idea Sir. I will do that today. Have you noticed that the dampers you buy today are really not made that well. One season and they are shot. Thinking of make mine out of stainless so they just last a few sessions. Good day to you fella too.
So I have an experimental idea to throw your way. You want more thermal heat storage, and in particular, you want to be able to absorb the heat in your short hot burns and then have the heat all through the night to avoid freezing pipes. Water. 30 to 50 Cases of bottled water. Water holds about 4 times the amount of heat per pound as bricks or concrete. All the major retailers sell bottled water really cheap about 2 to 4 bucks a case. Having the water in a small bottles allows air to get around the bottle allowing it to adsorb heat faster. This water can be cycled from 40 degrees to 100 degrees or more to absorb heat. We have all left a water bottle in a car on a hot day and left a water bottle in a car and had it freeze as well. When there is a leak it will only be one small bottle of water, -which will evaporate. Water does not burn; so there is no fire hazzard. Now how you put the water in the room is up to you. I certainly think three to four stacks of water bottles in the shrink wrapped cases would work. You could separate the bottles a little and put plywood between then like a fancy store display. You could have a fan draw air through them in some way. You could put up some metal shelves. Stack the water on top of your fridge. If the water were high where the heat was it would naturally work better. Honestly, I would sort of like to hide it in a corner. Wood releases 8000 BTU per pound, and if you have if takes one BTU to raise one pound of water 1 degreeF. A case of water weighs about 27 pounds and if you were to swing that water by 40 degrees raising the water from 40 to 80 degrees, each case of bottled water would hold 1,000 BTU. So if your normal firing of the wood stove is 5 pounds and you wanted to absorb all that heat, you would need 40 cases of bottled water. Now obviously if you swing the temperature by more then you would need less water. You could blow 140 degree air from the heat saver past the water bottles, then you would need less water. This I think is too complicated. I would just keep it simple with some stacks of water bottles in the corner in such a way the air can get through them. One side benefit of using water is some of the thermal water mass might freeze before your water pipes.
A few ways one could improve such a method involve having the water bottles up high in the room, on a wall self. This would require sturdy construction because it would be heavy. Heat naturally rises. A shelf up high would cycle a wider temperature range and need less water. It would also be out of the way. Another way might be to put a stacks near the wood stove with one of those little heat powered fans blowing warm air into it. Anyway, just a few ideas to ponder.
so you can't have heat in the barn because a heat source makes it a dwelling? and so then since it's a dwelling, a fire place can't be the primary source? and what makes "primary", "primary"? that seems like they have a specific definition of those words.
With the insurance company we have; if you want to heat a building, (with the heating unit inside), and you want it fully insured, the heating unit has to be designed to heat the whole building, and be something other than wood fire. -that's what they are calling the 'primary heating'. Once that has been established, an additional wood stove/fireplace could be added.
During the heating season, I have a fire in it for a couple hours each day. Just so it won't freeze up in there. Those hot clean burns keep things pretty clean.
@@doubleMinnovations thanks - so that stove from Menards - you say the baffler rechannels the smoke to the front before it then goes out the chimney again in the back? That's an impressive baffler! Does it normally hold the fireproof insulation material? I mean some of those stoves have that set up with an insert above of the ceramic insulation. I was just wondering if you had to create a frame or something to hold up the top ceramic - looks like it was prefabricated so the baffle holds the ceramic insulation? Yeah the Twodog stove does not have the baffle set up like that. I'll need to check out that cheap Menards stove next time I go there - I'm a regular Menards customer.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 The ceramic fiber board was something I had to get. There was none of that in this stove. The ceiling of the insulated burn chamber, just rests on top of the walls of the chamber. I haven't seen this stove for sale anymore since I bought one. I don't think it is manufactured any more. Probably because it wasn't a good design. If you were going to experiment with a insulated burn chamber in a bigger stove; any old used one would probably work. I wouldn't spend the money on a new one. You could just buy a barrel stove kit, and try something with that..
@@doubleMinnovations Wow - interesting! I would have never thought that the ceiling ceramic board is just "resting" - I'm not really mechanically oriented. haha. Yes I have a hut in northern mn - same deal - no bldg inspections. I need to clean out my duct pipe but I have not used the stove that much and I try to burn fully open as much as possible. Actually with the baffle you get a hotter burn I think with the stove closed down a bit once it gets up to temp. That's how Fourdog advertises the stove also - so that it's just a lower primary air from the bottom part coming in as he has a screen covering the rest of the air intake hole. He says that increases the combustion also from the air being mixed up in the flow. Anyway - congratulations on your system. I've watched a lot of those mass rocket stove systems and it seems for Minnesota - it's better to get heat right away as it's colder. So your system makes up for that factor. I like that Frostbite Falls cartoon with Bullwinkle's stove pipe all contorted and twisted around - hilarious. I'm using a long 30 degree duct pipe into the side of the hut wall - to get the heat before it leaves the hut. So you're saying with that 10 pound paraffin wax - well basically it's ONLY because you have the ceramic board insulation that the wax doesn't get too hot. Yeah that's a nifty set up to be sure. I kept thinking of - people sell a ceramic board "kit" now to use it as a rocket stove - but obviously if we already have a normal stove then it's better to retrofit it as you did. So then the heat extractor is key indeed. So the cold air intake - it probably gets preheated as your hot air fills the room and would circulate back down to the floor just by virtue of having that circular draft system flowing. I just have an outdoor dirt floor hut. haha. So that's the real challenge is getting the floor warm. I wonder how much more heat you get off that duct due to the air circulation you set up - versus just if was a normal duct pipe? I mean for me I have a 60 degree - not a 90 degree elbow like you have - so it doesn't slow it down as much - but it is four feet at that 30 degrees going out of the hut. So you're saying the convection air flow pulls off way more heat than just "conduction"?
@@doubleMinnovations So basically I take apart my chimney duct and clean it all out. I fill in the stove with ceramic fiber board. I get 8 inch stove pipe to surround my 30 degree four foot six inch pipe. I get 10 pounds of paraffin wax. Presto!!!! I'm liking this alot!! WAY easier than trying to design some kind of mass heat rocket stove system.
The smoke chimney with the air inner pipe for heat recovery is a very nice idea! Congratulation!
Thank you!
I appreciate wat your doing and the fact that your sharing this, I'm gonna do this
Right on! I apologize for the questions I've been asking in oter videos
Learned a lot and appreciate your innovation. Wondering what would happen to add a waste oil drip to that setup. Or wondering what an effective waste oil mass heater would look like.
That would be another experiment. Thanks for sharing your ideas!
Very nice! But your last part of the video where you explain how the hot air leaves the oven is quite unclear,do you mean you have created two chambers where the air is forced to go through IN THE HEAT OF THE OVEN,OR OUTSIDE TO MAKE IT HEAT THE AIR IN THE ROOM.
Please make a principple drawing of where and how the airflow goes.
The oven? The last part of this video was me cleaning out the heat reclaimer, and that's just a pipe through another pipe. Heat rises, and when the heat reclaimer is upright and connected. Air from the room rises up through the inner pipe as it is heated from the exhaust going through the bigger pipe, which surrounds the smaller inner pipe.
I wonder if you were to fix a type of metal element, a bit like one inside an electric oven, and fit it to the inside roof of the stove . It would have to be made up of a very light gage material in order for it to glow red hot, it should act just like an added electric bar fire. This might add or even double the strength of heat output, but only assuming the element was capable of glowing red hot. The only downfall i can think off, is that the heat source may burn quicker ?. Thanks 4 sharing and By the way loved the added pressure point at the very end of this video : )
Thanks for your ideas Robert. With that ending line, just felt compelled. 😆
@@doubleMinnovations proper order
Can you show how you made the reclaimer
Look into dual fuel forced hot air furnace you can probably find a used one best brand to look into would be a thermopride. Have it inspected then you can take it all apart and re-engineer it for ur needs just make sure the removable metal jacket housing will fit back on and no one knows the difference. It probably would qualify for ur insurance company even if u only use oil/gas burner for less then a minute as ignition source for the wood
Something to think about. Thanks.
Did you say your outside chimney is insulated? I use an 8 inch pipe with rock wool around a six inch duct pipe
The chimney is made of standard insulated stainless steel flue pipes.
@@doubleMinnovations insulated stainless! nice. thanks
Thks & I don't mean to sound shallow;
However maybe you can just put-in the cheapest/smallest/simplest/etc possible whole house heating system that home insurance will aprove & never really use it.
Ex: absolute minimum compliance to a law vs complying to the true-spirit of a law
Oh since you said the dynamite box is fake, now you can keep dynamite in it & no-one would ever think different ;)
We probably will do some type of whole house heating in there, as we would like to use that place as a guest house when visitors come. I know the Ins. Co. won't accept plug-in type electric heaters, (because I asked); everything has to be directly connected. With electric I would probably have upgrade the service for that, I have propane available in there, so I might do something that way. Thanks for your input!
@@doubleMinnovations you may not have to have the service upgraded for a heat pump (this should work for more of the winter as the climate changes, and it can also give you air conditioning if set up correctly), or if an electric resistive heating system is weak enough (I don't recommend this)
the fix it really simple. just tell them you "dont" live in there. its not a dwelling. its just a hobby space.
I need to be honest with my insurance agent. But I know some people do try to slip things by them...
I called my county planning office. They insisted if it was set up as a dwelling then it is one. I didn't think that included a wood stove though - I just have a hut that is primitive. Technically if it is just used "occasionally" then it is not "occupied" as a dwelling, even though I have a wood stove. My neighbor lives full time in his cabin that he doesn't have permitted as a dwelling. Kind of funny actually - he knows what he's doing and his dad was a county zoning surveyor - so they have the connections. haha. I'm sure they don't have insurance though.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 In the county where we live, you only need an a road address to have a residence. They don't care what you live in, or how you live in it. Don't even need a building permit. If you want something insured though, you have to follow what the insurance Co. wants.
I am wondering how much do you pay for insurance and what is the square footage you are paying for ??? Thanks
I don't think I will be putting out private information like that here. Sorry.
@@doubleMinnovations There is another question you just may be able to help me with. The damper on the flu pipe is real lose cause I burn wood that has a moisture content of 1 to 4 percent. This causes latterly no creosote to be formed, which makes the damper really sloppy and does not have any detent which makes the flapper be able to change position on a windy day. The spring seems really weak from the heat. How would I tighten the damper ??? A ball park figure was what I was asking Sir. You do not have to be exact. I can tell my my bill is 1200 roughly. Thanks and peace too. VF
The first thing you could try, is squishing the stove pipe a little so the damper would have some friction. Or replace the damper; -they are not that expensive. You may have to replace the section of pipe the damper is in, if the damper is deteriorating because of the heat. Peace!
@@doubleMinnovations Thanks for the idea Sir. I will do that today. Have you noticed that the dampers you buy today are really not made that well. One season and they are shot. Thinking of make mine out of stainless so they just last a few sessions. Good day to you fella too.
So now you just need to make some Parafin Wax filled Fire Bricks.
So I have an experimental idea to throw your way. You want more thermal heat storage, and in particular, you want to be able to absorb the heat in your short hot burns and then have the heat all through the night to avoid freezing pipes. Water. 30 to 50 Cases of bottled water. Water holds about 4 times the amount of heat per pound as bricks or concrete. All the major retailers sell bottled water really cheap about 2 to 4 bucks a case. Having the water in a small bottles allows air to get around the bottle allowing it to adsorb heat faster. This water can be cycled from 40 degrees to 100 degrees or more to absorb heat. We have all left a water bottle in a car on a hot day and left a water bottle in a car and had it freeze as well. When there is a leak it will only be one small bottle of water, -which will evaporate. Water does not burn; so there is no fire hazzard. Now how you put the water in the room is up to you. I certainly think three to four stacks of water bottles in the shrink wrapped cases would work. You could separate the bottles a little and put plywood between then like a fancy store display. You could have a fan draw air through them in some way. You could put up some metal shelves. Stack the water on top of your fridge. If the water were high where the heat was it would naturally work better. Honestly, I would sort of like to hide it in a corner. Wood releases 8000 BTU per pound, and if you have if takes one BTU to raise one pound of water 1 degreeF. A case of water weighs about 27 pounds and if you were to swing that water by 40 degrees raising the water from 40 to 80 degrees, each case of bottled water would hold 1,000 BTU. So if your normal firing of the wood stove is 5 pounds and you wanted to absorb all that heat, you would need 40 cases of bottled water. Now obviously if you swing the temperature by more then you would need less water. You could blow 140 degree air from the heat saver past the water bottles, then you would need less water. This I think is too complicated. I would just keep it simple with some stacks of water bottles in the corner in such a way the air can get through them. One side benefit of using water is some of the thermal water mass might freeze before your water pipes.
A few ways one could improve such a method involve having the water bottles up high in the room, on a wall self. This would require sturdy construction because it would be heavy. Heat naturally rises. A shelf up high would cycle a wider temperature range and need less water. It would also be out of the way. Another way might be to put a stacks near the wood stove with one of those little heat powered fans blowing warm air into it. Anyway, just a few ideas to ponder.
Thanks for sharing your ideas Cryptick Cryptick. I need to consider eye appeal too, if this is going to be used as a guest house. 🤔
You could just get electric storage heaters and put them down as your primary heating source
That is a possibility; or a small gas furnace. Not too concerned right now. Thanks!
so you can't have heat in the barn because a heat source makes it a dwelling? and so then since it's a dwelling, a fire place can't be the primary source?
and what makes "primary", "primary"? that seems like they have a specific definition of those words.
With the insurance company we have; if you want to heat a building, (with the heating unit inside), and you want it fully insured, the heating unit has to be designed to heat the whole building, and be something other than wood fire. -that's what they are calling the 'primary heating'. Once that has been established, an additional wood stove/fireplace could be added.
You had that running everyday for a year? ! Impressive. No creosote.
During the heating season, I have a fire in it for a couple hours each day. Just so it won't freeze up in there. Those hot clean burns keep things pretty clean.
@@doubleMinnovations thanks - so that stove from Menards - you say the baffler rechannels the smoke to the front before it then goes out the chimney again in the back? That's an impressive baffler! Does it normally hold the fireproof insulation material? I mean some of those stoves have that set up with an insert above of the ceramic insulation. I was just wondering if you had to create a frame or something to hold up the top ceramic - looks like it was prefabricated so the baffle holds the ceramic insulation? Yeah the Twodog stove does not have the baffle set up like that. I'll need to check out that cheap Menards stove next time I go there - I'm a regular Menards customer.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 The ceramic fiber board was something I had to get. There was none of that in this stove. The ceiling of the insulated burn chamber, just rests on top of the walls of the chamber. I haven't seen this stove for sale anymore since I bought one. I don't think it is manufactured any more. Probably because it wasn't a good design. If you were going to experiment with a insulated burn chamber in a bigger stove; any old used one would probably work. I wouldn't spend the money on a new one. You could just buy a barrel stove kit, and try something with that..
@@doubleMinnovations Wow - interesting! I would have never thought that the ceiling ceramic board is just "resting" - I'm not really mechanically oriented. haha. Yes I have a hut in northern mn - same deal - no bldg inspections. I need to clean out my duct pipe but I have not used the stove that much and I try to burn fully open as much as possible. Actually with the baffle you get a hotter burn I think with the stove closed down a bit once it gets up to temp. That's how Fourdog advertises the stove also - so that it's just a lower primary air from the bottom part coming in as he has a screen covering the rest of the air intake hole. He says that increases the combustion also from the air being mixed up in the flow. Anyway - congratulations on your system. I've watched a lot of those mass rocket stove systems and it seems for Minnesota - it's better to get heat right away as it's colder. So your system makes up for that factor. I like that Frostbite Falls cartoon with Bullwinkle's stove pipe all contorted and twisted around - hilarious.
I'm using a long 30 degree duct pipe into the side of the hut wall - to get the heat before it leaves the hut. So you're saying with that 10 pound paraffin wax - well basically it's ONLY because you have the ceramic board insulation that the wax doesn't get too hot.
Yeah that's a nifty set up to be sure. I kept thinking of - people sell a ceramic board "kit" now to use it as a rocket stove - but obviously if we already have a normal stove then it's better to retrofit it as you did. So then the heat extractor is key indeed.
So the cold air intake - it probably gets preheated as your hot air fills the room and would circulate back down to the floor just by virtue of having that circular draft system flowing. I just have an outdoor dirt floor hut. haha. So that's the real challenge is getting the floor warm.
I wonder how much more heat you get off that duct due to the air circulation you set up - versus just if was a normal duct pipe? I mean for me I have a 60 degree - not a 90 degree elbow like you have - so it doesn't slow it down as much - but it is four feet at that 30 degrees going out of the hut. So you're saying the convection air flow pulls off way more heat than just "conduction"?
@@doubleMinnovations So basically I take apart my chimney duct and clean it all out. I fill in the stove with ceramic fiber board. I get 8 inch stove pipe to surround my 30 degree four foot six inch pipe. I get 10 pounds of paraffin wax. Presto!!!! I'm liking this alot!! WAY easier than trying to design some kind of mass heat rocket stove system.
If one even stops to think or say or fear insurance companies in the mind alone!
these kind of video s are not for sheep