I burned firewood for years and I'm not an engineer, but I would follow the stove manufacturers recommendations and local codes as well as the home insurance company recommendations. The only liquid pot on my stove was water, I would never leave a hot pot of wax on my stove especially unattended.
Yes, if someone wants insurance they have to do what the insurance Co. says is ok. That's what I do here, or I have to take the risk. I only have partial coverage on the barn, but full replacement coverage on the house, because I have a whole house heating source other than only wood heating there. That will be part of the subject on the next video. This channel is for experimenting and innovation, so I go 'out of the box', to see if I can discover something new. Thanks for watching!
I love your videos by the way.. if there's a more efficient way I'm all for it and I don't see any problems with what you have done some people just don't get it but it makes for a good laugh reading some of the comments common sense don't go far in today's society keep up the amazing videos and have a very merry Christmas cheers
@Brandon Walleye; I remember when I was in elementary school in the early 70's, the whole class made candles for Christmas. The teacher had 2 big pots of wax on a regular cook stove. She was careful not to over heat it, and we did the pouring. There was some spillage, but everyone had fun and survived. Thanks for commenting!
Thank you for the explanation. I'm sure that I speak for others, I did not get this much information from the first video. Thank you for the clarification.
I love the pot of wax. I think it's a fantastic idea for an area where only adults will be around. I have small children and animals, so some sort of physical barrier would obviously be needed. I can remember burning my hand on a similar stove when I was 3 or 4. I'm sure it wasn't a serious burn, but it got my attention in a hurry!
When I grew up, most people around, learned early to give potentially dangerous things a healthy respect. It seems like a lot people these days, have been so protected and cushioned, they're afraid so much more of the 'what ifs' in life. Best wishes!
Crazy, I just watched your Feb 20th video so good timing as it's now Dec14th. I'm building a wood stove for my 25' x 25' x 10ft shop ...made out of a heavy duty 20" wide propane tank that's 1/8" thick. The total length is around 30" front to back. It will be horizontally mounted with a 12" x 12" front door and my plan is to line it with 1" thick fire bricks (long way front to back)and have them sit up to at least the half-way point of the curve. I liked your idea of the 2" sheet above the fire because I also want to weld on a rectangular box on top ~8" wide x 8" tall and weld in 5 heat pipes (2 over 3) at maybe 1.25" ID x 24", so I may cut out the top curve of the tank and put in the layer of ceramic stuff under my heat pipes so that the flames don't hit them directly. Anyway, great ideas all around, thx!
Thanks for the thoughtful ideas --- low cost, high return. Good job. I think the "phase change" was lost on most people - I'm a Chemist, so I understand the massive heat transfer when something heats up and cools down and changes from a solid-liquid, and then back again - you took advantage of that passively, Good thinking! People love to freak out! As a society, we've gone a little overboard on "safety" . Is that ordinary paraffin wax or special thermal wax?
It was a 10lb block of paraffin I got from Hobby Lobby for candle making. Some people around here use it to wax their snow skis, and canning lid seals. If I had the wax in a double boiler, people wouldn't be so concerned, I think. The surface temp of the stove isn't that high, so there was never any concern for me, and it is taking 3 hours or more just to melt it. Still thinking on a way to heat more wax, quicker, and maybe with heated water first from the stove to containers away from the stove a little. Thanks for watching and commenting!
not sure what the deal is. people are just not smart enough to know that all innovation started with a guy doing what he could to improve an object. Love your channel. This is great information, and I'm thinking of ways to improve the efficiency of my own home heating. We have radiant heat, a boiler in the basement heats water that is pumped throughout the house, however it uses gas, and a pipe for exhaust. The exhaust pipe is around 200-300f as it leaves the boiler. My basement office is pretty cold, but its less than 40 feet from the boiler. Should be getting heat down here from under the floor....Only the room with the boiler is above 65F when its 30F outside. Thinking I could draw heat off the exhaust to help heat the rest of the basement. anyway...just thinking =) Thank you for the video!
@john beach Thanks John. The exhaust still seems to have enough heat to it to get out the chimney. Sometimes I have seen icicles on the chimney cap when it gets much below 0˚F here.
Have you ever gotten any condensate coming out bottom of inner pipe? Since u are exhausting so low ur basically matching same results as the newest designed gas furnace and boilers as well as the 1 and only hw boiler that's oil fired and made by only 1 company. I had to go to NH to become certified just to install and service it. You my friend are amazing don't ever stop improving.
The condensate issue is the main one that worries me. Wood smoke condensate is exceptionally acidic (it's acetic acid, the same as in vinegar). You could do well to pack the bottom of the heat recovery unit with something alkaline, I think? The amount produced is not high, but it will be enough to warrant at least having a bolt-off cleanout you'll take off when you can have the stove off long enough to fully cool.
Hey don't worry about what people say.. You know what you are doing, and that is what matters. I remember when I was a kid, my Dad put his five gallon (metal jerry can) container of diesel fuel on the fire place we had, for about 50 minutes, as to put a bit of heat into the fuel before putting it into our car that had five gallons of gelled up fuel in the fuel tank. He was attempting to put warm fuel in with the gelled fuel so the car would start on that very cold morning and get us kids to school, and it WORKED.
No worries. Controversy makes good press! It also give me ideas for new videos like this one. Around here sometimes, when it gets real cold, like around -45˚F; I've seen people start fires under their big propane tanks outside, because the vapor pressure is so low (and not much propane in it), their furnace won't work. Best wishes!
What is the ratio of fuel use over the stock stove for this stove? 50%? 80%? Is it inaccurate because you're using higher temperatures now because you don't have to burn as much fuel to do so?
Really good ideas man, always thinkin, hey do u think water is fuel? I've heard hot steam into engine intake will increase fuel economy by x5, wrap exaust pipe with copper pipe? Extend exaust into water tank?
Do you mean the chimney going out the roof? I didn't doing a video of building that (5yrs ago). There's a picture of it at the end of this video, and when I cleaned the heat reclaimer: ua-cam.com/video/hopXmMXrqAY/v-deo.html
Crazy all makes sense looking for the next one. I can't really find any info about the heat reclaimer to better understand how and why it works. I have mad something similar with my fire place using the heat liner. It works but I was hoping it could be better. If I ues colder air from my basement will the reclamer create a stronger draft. Or am I just wasting my time.
It works by thermosiphon, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon It might create a stronger air flow through it. It would also be bring air up from your basement, and that air would need a way to get back down. If it's damp musty air, with some odor; probably wouldn't want to do that. Best wishes!
@@PatrickKQ4HBD so I found that colder air doesn't do anything to make a better draft. The best draft maker is more heat and more air flow with the lest amount of restriction as possible. I'm guessing insulation around the chimney will help considerably. Hotter the air the fastester it will flow up.
I also raped my pot belly stove with insulation on the exterior and added an extra long fire chamber on top. It looks werd but seems to be working. It burns away hotter less smoke and Tar. Insulation really seems to be all you need for a rely hot flame. Night and day I was wondering if Insulation would prevent the air from warming up. But by keeping the fan on the chimney im getting all the heat vapor i need. So crazy it works that way. I'll be building a wood stove soon hopefully lots to consider when making it efficient.
Patrick Poe, I learned a lot from the different methods of wood heating tried in this barn area, then took the best parts and built the masonry heater/fireplace in our house. I have some earlier videos of that too. Thanks for watching!
OK I ordered the ceramic fiber board. The stove is 18 inches long and 11 inches wide and high. So the fiber board is $120. So I figured I can maybe put fiberboard on the front door if I need to keep the steel from overheating. haha. Also I'll get 8 inch stove pipe AROUND the 6 inch stove pipe. So I'll get bolts to hold the 8 inch centered around the 6 inch - unless you have a better idea. Do you think that heater exchanger will work instead of having the cold air inside the hot air? Cuz hot air expands - seems like it should work. I'll then see if the water in the big pot stops overboiling and evaporating since water has twice the heat capacity of paraffin wax. thanks again
The smaller insulated combustion chamber inside the stove, is not to keep the rest of the stove from getting overheated. It's to get a hotter clean burn, then it goes into the rest of the stove. You may want to read through all of the comments in these videos, to get an understanding of what's going on. I don't think you quite grasp everything, and the caution needed for experimenting with these ideas.
@@doubleMinnovations I realize the goal is the clean burn. I'm just pointing out - by doing my own thinking - that the general consensus is a steel stove is not supposed to get above 800 F. Now you're stating the heat then goes to the "rest of the stove" - yes so it goes to the back and then through the baffle to the front and then back through the top to the center stove collar to exit. And I saw your temperature readings - so it is what - around 400 degrees maybe at the exit or 500? So clearly that is fine but as you state the front burn chamber is connecting to the front door - and you admit the ceramic glass can handle over 1200 F. So that solves my concern as per your use of ceramic glass. It tells me that a normal steel door front could definitely be a problem as I had initially raised. No one else in these comments has raised that concern. NOW if you don't think it's a legitimate concern I'd like to hear why, etc. I probably can't do much furnace cement in the winter as the stove would be too hot or the room would be too cold once the stove cools down, etc. haha. Maybe I can swing it - to add insulation to the front door. thanks for your help - I'm all ears here. I have read the other comments. Also I'd like your feedback on my heat exchange switch around - do you think that it's fine to put the 8 inch around the stove pipe? So the cold air is around the hot? thanks
That baffle design on that stove sounds kind of strange. So the baffle goes all the way back to the back of the wood stove and has an interior chamber - before any smoke is released back up out of the front of the stove - and then up out of the duct pipe? Wild. Most baffles have an opening in the back of the stove also and the smoke just has to go around a small part in the back of the stove to get to the exit duct pipe - NOT all the way to the front again. What's the model of that stove? I'm just curious what that baffle design looks like. thanks
@@jameskniskern2261 You are correct. NaCL does have a super high melting point. It seems that it is sodium nitrate NaNO3 and potassium nitrate KNO3 that are used. I dont know if these are easily available.
So the temperature ratiing for woodstove glass is 500 degrees? Then people say a stove should not get over 800 F. So that front door must be "cooled" enough from the air intake? That's really my only concern at this point. I don't have a glass front door - I have steel. But if people say don't get it over 800 degrees and you're reading over 1000 F. seems like an issue. What's your take on why it's not a problem? thanks
@@doubleMinnovations AH - thanks! Fascinating. I'm excited to try this. I'll try using furnace cement to attach ceramic fiber board insulation on the front door - just to be safe.
I love the extra pipe thing I just think it doesn't work, it's insulating the heat from the room. The wax thing though, that was amazing I have never heard of that. Changing state for more energy capacity I'd love to see more about that.
Heat expands - so seems like the 8 inch pipe could be the empty air flow while the interior pipe could be the smoke heat... Not sure why that wouldn't work and also no concern of smoke escaping out of those end caps.
And how is that when the household consists of adults? It is wax...like the scentsy wax that everyone is so fond of having melted in a detached pot sitting upon a little electric lamp with a hot ass bulb in the middle of their coffee table, end tables, night stands IN REACH of children...constantly on and left unattended when they leave the house and giving no thought as to children who may be in the house...just trying to perfume up the house.
rowgler1, I don't think you watched the video, where I explained again that this is all experimental, and showed the temperature of the stove top, and the pot. This idea has been out there since the 1970's, and people are putting this phase change property of paraffin to use for experimental heat storage. For concerned people, I do not recommend they try to melt wax at home. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@doubleMinnovations I did watch the video. Three gallons of wax contains a similar amount of stored energy in combustion as three gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel. Its value as a heat storage medium is not worth the risk. A tablespoon of scented wax is a manageable amount. Twice, I have seen pin hole leaks and cracks occur in cheap stainless steel pots, sometimes they are not made of the best metal. Even in a reliable container storing that much fuel on a wood stove is an incredible risk, not worth the benefit. Think of the fires caused by vegetable oil when a wet turkey encounters hot oil. Water boils at 212 degrees and sinks to the heated surface, less than the flash point of oil, but several drops of water can boil, displacing the oil. The amount of smoke that much wax could create in several seconds before it actually combusted would make escape difficult. When that much smoke ignites all at once it does 'explode' enough to blow out windows. Then enough oxygen comes in to support the fire. A much better heat storage medium would be concrete blocks or a sculpture made out of alternating sizes of barbell plates. Something non combustable, dense, with a lot of surface area. Even rock salt would be better than wax.
@@rowgler1 Nie o to chodzi aby akumulować ciepło w bloczkach betonowych (najlepsze byłyby cegły szamotowe). Autor projektu chce wykorzystać ciepło oddawane podczas przemiany fazowej: ciekły wosk - wosk w postaci stałej. A że to niebezpieczne, bo wosk łatwopalny? No cóż.... Co teraz bezpieczne?
I burned firewood for years and I'm not an engineer, but I would follow the stove manufacturers recommendations and local codes as well as the home insurance company recommendations. The only liquid pot on my stove was water, I would never leave a hot pot of wax on my stove especially unattended.
Yes, if someone wants insurance they have to do what the insurance Co. says is ok. That's what I do here, or I have to take the risk. I only have partial coverage on the barn, but full replacement coverage on the house, because I have a whole house heating source other than only wood heating there. That will be part of the subject on the next video.
This channel is for experimenting and innovation, so I go 'out of the box', to see if I can discover something new.
Thanks for watching!
I love your videos by the way.. if there's a more efficient way I'm all for it and I don't see any problems with what you have done some people just don't get it but it makes for a good laugh reading some of the comments common sense don't go far in today's society keep up the amazing videos and have a very merry Christmas cheers
@Brandon Walleye; I remember when I was in elementary school in the early 70's, the whole class made candles for Christmas. The teacher had 2 big pots of wax on a regular cook stove. She was careful not to over heat it, and we did the pouring. There was some spillage, but everyone had fun and survived.
Thanks for commenting!
Thank you for the explanation. I'm sure that I speak for others, I did not get this much information from the first video. Thank you for the clarification.
Glad it was helpful!
You’re doing a great job. Keep it up. Love your videos and ideas.
Thank you so much!
I love the pot of wax. I think it's a fantastic idea for an area where only adults will be around. I have small children and animals, so some sort of physical barrier would obviously be needed.
I can remember burning my hand on a similar stove when I was 3 or 4. I'm sure it wasn't a serious burn, but it got my attention in a hurry!
When I grew up, most people around, learned early to give potentially dangerous things a healthy respect. It seems like a lot people these days, have been so protected and cushioned, they're afraid so much more of the 'what ifs' in life. Best wishes!
Crazy, I just watched your Feb 20th video so good timing as it's now Dec14th. I'm building a wood stove for my 25' x 25' x 10ft shop ...made out of a heavy duty 20" wide propane tank that's 1/8" thick. The total length is around 30" front to back. It will be horizontally mounted with a 12" x 12" front door and my plan is to line it with 1" thick fire bricks (long way front to back)and have them sit up to at least the half-way point of the curve. I liked your idea of the 2" sheet above the fire because I also want to weld on a rectangular box on top ~8" wide x 8" tall and weld in 5 heat pipes (2 over 3) at maybe 1.25" ID x 24", so I may cut out the top curve of the tank and put in the layer of ceramic stuff under my heat pipes so that the flames don't hit them directly. Anyway, great ideas all around, thx!
Sounds like you got yourself a plan! Thanks for sharing it. Best wishes!
Thanks for the thoughtful ideas --- low cost, high return. Good job. I think the "phase change" was lost on most people - I'm a Chemist, so I understand the massive heat transfer when something heats up and cools down and changes from a solid-liquid, and then back again - you took advantage of that passively, Good thinking! People love to freak out! As a society, we've gone a little overboard on "safety" . Is that ordinary paraffin wax or special thermal wax?
It was a 10lb block of paraffin I got from Hobby Lobby for candle making. Some people around here use it to wax their snow skis, and canning lid seals. If I had the wax in a double boiler, people wouldn't be so concerned, I think. The surface temp of the stove isn't that high, so there was never any concern for me, and it is taking 3 hours or more just to melt it. Still thinking on a way to heat more wax, quicker, and maybe with heated water first from the stove to containers away from the stove a little. Thanks for watching and commenting!
not sure what the deal is. people are just not smart enough to know that all innovation started with a guy doing what he could to improve an object. Love your channel. This is great information, and I'm thinking of ways to improve the efficiency of my own home heating. We have radiant heat, a boiler in the basement heats water that is pumped throughout the house, however it uses gas, and a pipe for exhaust. The exhaust pipe is around 200-300f as it leaves the boiler. My basement office is pretty cold, but its less than 40 feet from the boiler. Should be getting heat down here from under the floor....Only the room with the boiler is above 65F when its 30F outside. Thinking I could draw heat off the exhaust to help heat the rest of the basement. anyway...just thinking =) Thank you for the video!
Thanks for the comments! Best wishes getting your heating situation more favorable!
@john beach Thanks John. The exhaust still seems to have enough heat to it to get out the chimney. Sometimes I have seen icicles on the chimney cap when it gets much below 0˚F here.
Have you ever gotten any condensate coming out bottom of inner pipe? Since u are exhausting so low ur basically matching same results as the newest designed gas furnace and boilers as well as the 1 and only hw boiler that's oil fired and made by only 1 company. I had to go to NH to become certified just to install and service it. You my friend are amazing don't ever stop improving.
No condensate from inner pipe.
The condensate issue is the main one that worries me. Wood smoke condensate is exceptionally acidic (it's acetic acid, the same as in vinegar). You could do well to pack the bottom of the heat recovery unit with something alkaline, I think? The amount produced is not high, but it will be enough to warrant at least having a bolt-off cleanout you'll take off when you can have the stove off long enough to fully cool.
You say you are getting zero condensate in other comments; are you experiencing any corrosion in the heat recovery unit?
Thank you brother. Love rocket stoves. Happy to have found your work.
Awesome, thank you!
Hey don't worry about what people say.. You know what you are doing, and that is what matters. I remember when I was a kid, my Dad put his five gallon (metal jerry can) container of diesel fuel on the fire place we had, for about 50 minutes, as to put a bit of heat into the fuel before putting it into our car that had five gallons of gelled up fuel in the fuel tank. He was attempting to put warm fuel in with the gelled fuel so the car would start on that very cold morning and get us kids to school, and it WORKED.
No worries. Controversy makes good press! It also give me ideas for new videos like this one.
Around here sometimes, when it gets real cold, like around -45˚F; I've seen people start fires under their big propane tanks outside, because the vapor pressure is so low (and not much propane in it), their furnace won't work.
Best wishes!
What is the ratio of fuel use over the stock stove for this stove? 50%? 80%? Is it inaccurate because you're using higher temperatures now because you don't have to burn as much fuel to do so?
Great experiments, great air heat exchanger. Here is an old proverb for the nay sayers, a watched pot never boils over.
I think I heard that saying before... Thanks for watching!
Wouldnt this work if you got rid of the first 90 and the last 90 run the system strait up and run the vent pipe out the side of the Ts?
That's a great idea. Do u have plans for this.
You can check the other videos, and refer to the video descriptions for links for how I put this together.
Really good ideas man, always thinkin, hey do u think water is fuel? I've heard hot steam into engine intake will increase fuel economy by x5, wrap exaust pipe with copper pipe? Extend exaust into water tank?
How about a sketch of the two partitions? Curious to see how it's laid out. Thanks.
It is in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/5-2NuTN_Yzs/v-deo.html
i wouldnt want to breath in the wax fumes
Some people have melted wax pots set up around their house, just so they can breath the scent in the melt wax. My wife does it all the time.
Can we get a more detailed version of how you built the chinney?? Thanks
Do you mean the chimney going out the roof? I didn't doing a video of building that (5yrs ago). There's a picture of it at the end of this video, and when I cleaned the heat reclaimer: ua-cam.com/video/hopXmMXrqAY/v-deo.html
Crazy all makes sense looking for the next one.
I can't really find any info about the heat reclaimer to better understand how and why it works. I have mad something similar with my fire place using the heat liner. It works but I was hoping it could be better. If I ues colder air from my basement will the reclamer create a stronger draft. Or am I just wasting my time.
It works by thermosiphon, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon
It might create a stronger air flow through it. It would also be bring air up from your basement, and that air would need a way to get back down. If it's damp musty air, with some odor; probably wouldn't want to do that.
Best wishes!
I say it's your house, so give it a shot and take notes. You can always undo the changes.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD so I found that colder air doesn't do anything to make a better draft. The best draft maker is more heat and more air flow with the lest amount of restriction as possible.
I'm guessing insulation around the chimney will help considerably.
Hotter the air the fastester it will flow up.
I also raped my pot belly stove with insulation on the exterior and added an extra long fire chamber on top. It looks werd but seems to be working.
It burns away hotter less smoke and Tar.
Insulation really seems to be all you need for a rely hot flame. Night and day
I was wondering if Insulation would prevent the air from warming up. But by keeping the fan on the chimney im getting all the heat vapor i need.
So crazy it works that way.
I'll be building a wood stove soon hopefully lots to consider when making it efficient.
Patrick Poe, I learned a lot from the different methods of wood heating tried in this barn area, then took the best parts and built the masonry heater/fireplace in our house. I have some earlier videos of that too.
Thanks for watching!
I'm guessing that wood box on the floor of DYNAMITE is not part of your experiment, and doesn't really include dynamite😅
Where's the build video?
OK I ordered the ceramic fiber board. The stove is 18 inches long and 11 inches wide and high. So the fiber board is $120. So I figured I can maybe put fiberboard on the front door if I need to keep the steel from overheating. haha. Also I'll get 8 inch stove pipe AROUND the 6 inch stove pipe. So I'll get bolts to hold the 8 inch centered around the 6 inch - unless you have a better idea. Do you think that heater exchanger will work instead of having the cold air inside the hot air? Cuz hot air expands - seems like it should work. I'll then see if the water in the big pot stops overboiling and evaporating since water has twice the heat capacity of paraffin wax. thanks again
The smaller insulated combustion chamber inside the stove, is not to keep the rest of the stove from getting overheated. It's to get a hotter clean burn, then it goes into the rest of the stove. You may want to read through all of the comments in these videos, to get an understanding of what's going on. I don't think you quite grasp everything, and the caution needed for experimenting with these ideas.
@@doubleMinnovations I realize the goal is the clean burn. I'm just pointing out - by doing my own thinking - that the general consensus is a steel stove is not supposed to get above 800 F. Now you're stating the heat then goes to the "rest of the stove" - yes so it goes to the back and then through the baffle to the front and then back through the top to the center stove collar to exit. And I saw your temperature readings - so it is what - around 400 degrees maybe at the exit or 500? So clearly that is fine but as you state the front burn chamber is connecting to the front door - and you admit the ceramic glass can handle over 1200 F. So that solves my concern as per your use of ceramic glass. It tells me that a normal steel door front could definitely be a problem as I had initially raised. No one else in these comments has raised that concern. NOW if you don't think it's a legitimate concern I'd like to hear why, etc. I probably can't do much furnace cement in the winter as the stove would be too hot or the room would be too cold once the stove cools down, etc. haha. Maybe I can swing it - to add insulation to the front door.
thanks for your help - I'm all ears here. I have read the other comments.
Also I'd like your feedback on my heat exchange switch around - do you think that it's fine to put the 8 inch around the stove pipe? So the cold air is around the hot?
thanks
That baffle design on that stove sounds kind of strange. So the baffle goes all the way back to the back of the wood stove and has an interior chamber - before any smoke is released back up out of the front of the stove - and then up out of the duct pipe? Wild. Most baffles have an opening in the back of the stove also and the smoke just has to go around a small part in the back of the stove to get to the exit duct pipe - NOT all the way to the front again. What's the model of that stove? I'm just curious what that baffle design looks like. thanks
Have you tried using salt? It has a melting point of 268 and used commercially in solar heat storage? I've though about it, never tried it
No I haven't. Is there any particular kind?
Melting point of sodium chloride (table salt) is 1474F. or 801C.
@@jameskniskern2261 You are correct. NaCL does have a super high melting point. It seems that it is sodium nitrate NaNO3 and potassium nitrate KNO3 that are used. I dont know if these are easily available.
So the temperature ratiing for woodstove glass is 500 degrees? Then people say a stove should not get over 800 F. So that front door must be "cooled" enough from the air intake? That's really my only concern at this point. I don't have a glass front door - I have steel. But if people say don't get it over 800 degrees and you're reading over 1000 F. seems like an issue. What's your take on why it's not a problem? thanks
Ceramic glass can handle 1265˚F. Air wash over the glass keeps temps down too.
@@doubleMinnovations AH - thanks! Fascinating. I'm excited to try this. I'll try using furnace cement to attach ceramic fiber board insulation on the front door - just to be safe.
Looking forward to the video showing the pipe clean out and the fine ash buildup in the FOUR 90 degree pieces of the exhaust pipe.
I love the extra pipe thing I just think it doesn't work, it's insulating the heat from the room.
The wax thing though, that was amazing I have never heard of that. Changing state for more energy capacity I'd love to see more about that.
Heat expands - so seems like the 8 inch pipe could be the empty air flow while the interior pipe could be the smoke heat... Not sure why that wouldn't work and also no concern of smoke escaping out of those end caps.
👍🇸🇪❤️.
You need to get that pot of wax off the wood stove. It is dangerous. It is bad advice to give the general public that this is a good idea.
And how is that when the household consists of adults?
It is wax...like the scentsy wax that everyone is so fond of having melted in a detached pot sitting upon a little electric lamp with a hot ass bulb in the middle of their coffee table, end tables, night stands IN REACH of children...constantly on and left unattended when they leave the house and giving no thought as to children who may be in the house...just trying to perfume up the house.
rowgler1, I don't think you watched the video, where I explained again that this is all experimental, and showed the temperature of the stove top, and the pot. This idea has been out there since the 1970's, and people are putting this phase change property of paraffin to use for experimental heat storage. For concerned people, I do not recommend they try to melt wax at home.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Kristie Jones, My wife has them going all the time in our house. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@doubleMinnovations I did watch the video. Three gallons of wax contains a similar amount of stored energy in combustion as three gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel. Its value as a heat storage medium is not worth the risk. A tablespoon of scented wax is a manageable amount. Twice, I have seen pin hole leaks and cracks occur in cheap stainless steel pots, sometimes they are not made of the best metal. Even in a reliable container storing that much fuel on a wood stove is an incredible risk, not worth the benefit. Think of the fires caused by vegetable oil when a wet turkey encounters hot oil. Water boils at 212 degrees and sinks to the heated surface, less than the flash point of oil, but several drops of water can boil, displacing the oil. The amount of smoke that much wax could create in several seconds before it actually combusted would make escape difficult. When that much smoke ignites all at once it does 'explode' enough to blow out windows. Then enough oxygen comes in to support the fire. A much better heat storage medium would be concrete blocks or a sculpture made out of alternating sizes of barbell plates. Something non combustable, dense, with a lot of surface area. Even rock salt would be better than wax.
@@rowgler1
Nie o to chodzi aby akumulować ciepło w bloczkach betonowych (najlepsze byłyby cegły szamotowe). Autor projektu chce wykorzystać ciepło oddawane podczas przemiany fazowej: ciekły wosk - wosk w postaci stałej.
A że to niebezpieczne, bo wosk łatwopalny? No cóż....
Co teraz bezpieczne?