Just wanted to mention that with the latest firmware update you can switch between different build plates within the menu. No more writing down numbers for different sheets and re-adjusting live Z.
Thank you. You have helped me a lot with this video. I was having issues with adhesion on my new textured sheet. I thought the Z calibration was correct. But I see that I need to lower the Z axis more. Good contribution. Thank you.
The problem people have with poor adhesion with the textured sheet likely has nothing to do with calibration compared to the smooth sheet. I and many others have never owned the smooth sheet and have calibrated the textured sheet perfectly, and we have problems. Fortunately, there's a fix. The problem (confirmed by Prusa in their blog) can be due to a sugar compound residue left over from the manufacturing process, and this residue cannot be removed with alcohol. There are apparently variations between production runs. Washing the sheet in warm soapy water makes the sheet perfect. Typically one or two washings are sufficient. Some sheets, like mine, keep leeching out that residue and I must periodically wash it every 6-10 prints when I observe alcohol no longer working. After washing the sheet, you can feel the difference along the edges, squeaky clean instead of slippery.
Very interesting, thanks for this. The only issues I have with this sheet today is warping larger prints using PLA. PETG is by far my favourite material to print on these with!
Was going to just say this. Good scrubbing with hot soapy dish soap and prints stick great no matter what filament you use. PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA all work great. Haven’t tried any flex material yet.
The thing with recalibration, I missed that part and will of course do that and keep a separate profile for it. I thought that cleaning even with alcohol was not recommended on the textured one. Read people talk about windex. About sticking to the surface, I thought the whole point with this one was that it would have PETG stick better than the original one and that's why I ordered one. Didn't so much consider pla for it, but thats really good if it's better for that too. Only done one print though on the textured, a spare part for the printer in PETG (because that's what prusa print them with) . Looked fine, but wasn't sure what to expect. Perhaps I can improve with calibration of first layer.
The PRUSA menu has 8 different profiles. 2 for the smooth and 2 for the textured and others. Just the settings you have arrived at for both of your sheets.
Good video buddy Looking at buying the same printer I am a cnc router man and have a cnc lathe Do you think I would pick it up ok I get some parts made outside and looking at bringing them in house Regards Dave
I'm having trouble getting the bedsheet to stick. I use a smooth bed sheet. What's best cleaner to clean your bedsheet? Is alcohol is a good choice or Dawn dishwashing soap to use. My printer is not that very old. I got it in a few days before Thanksgiving Holiday. I did have some success with this bedsheet some of my project came good but I do have some bad days with this Prusa miniprinter.
What are you two different live Z settings for the two sheets? Most people seem to drop the nozzle down by about 0.200 for the thinner textured sheet. I'm curious because your example print on the smooth sheet looks like my results when my nozzle is too close to the bed and the lines bunch up more. Also, I've found the textured sheet is more prone to not stick from my fingerprints than the smooth PEI sticker, though I have had success printing filaments that never could stick to the smooth sheet.
Other than recalibrating the Z for the textured sheet there is no prep required for the steel sheet. Set the bed temperature to 80C and you should be fine.
@@pherz3775 I use acteone every single time on my PEI sheet on my MK2s, and have had perfect print adhesion every time for 3 years. Acetone does nothing to the smooth PEI sheets except get rid of all signs of fingerprint grease.... However, they warn against using acetone on the powder coated sheets as it may damage the textured finish.
I really like the texture that the powder coated sheet gives to the prints, just wished u could get that texture on all sides of the print not just the bottom. Know of any way to accomplish that?
maybe heat up the textured sheet in the oven to a certain temperature, then place the model on there for a few seconds? dunno if this would work, but would be worth a try...
You can get a textured pattern on the top layer. It's in the PrusaSlicer settings, under infill. Top Layer... set it as "Hilbert Curve" and it doesn't print in lines, but a special pattern that comes out really nice and textured You can also choose this for the bottom layer, but I've never tried it
@@ChrisMansellVideos - hilbert curve is pretty slow though. Personally I'm partial to the octagram spiral on objects that have symmetry; it makes a beautiful iridescent star pattern, both on the textured and non-textured side. The upcoming PrusaSlicer (and SuperSlicer now) has a top-layer polishing function that looks pretty cool, though, to make a smoother top layer for your prints.
will Powder Coated Spring Steel Sheets work on Nylon & Carbon Fiber Nylon Filaments? Im using garolite for nylon and CF nylon but not satisfied with bottom Layer lines would like Powdercoated because it hides bottom surface layer lines
Hi Terry! I use both of my steel sheets to print in PolyMax Polycarbonate with no issues! I print at 270 nozzle temp and 110 bed temp. Polycarb sticks very well to the Textured sheet, and is easy to remove!
@@thehardwareguy thank you , you wouldn't believe the trouble I've had asking this took days for an answer ha thanks very much . What powder coated sheet would you recommend ? Im looking for 220x220mm size
In my experience, PETG is perfect with the powder coated sheet. You don't need anything at all. With the smooth one, you need glue to separate PEI and PETG otherwise it might stick too well, so that you could not remove the printed object without damaging the sheet.
I know this is an old comment but asking this kinda thing is meaningless because there is pretty much no way that anyone's pinda is mounted in the same exact position. If yours is just a tiny bit higher or lower which it's going to be these measurements aren't going to work for you.
I'm sorry to absolutely disagree with the powder coated sheet. I also own a MK3S, have a lot of experience on this machine (I love it) but my powder coated sheet seems literally to repel the filament completely, at least PLA, PET's adhesive is a bit better but much weaker than the smooth sheet. I did a lot of "LiveZ" adjusting and sheet cleaning procedures but with no notifiable improvements. So from my point of view, it's not a game changer!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! I've actually had similar problems lately with larger prints (only with PLA). I am planning to make a follow up video on this.
I feel the same so far. I have both sheets and the Smooth sheet works so much better for me. The prints, both PLA AND PETG, jump right off the smooth sheet after printing. I'm having so much good luck with the steel sheet, I see no reason to continue to fumble to get the powder coated one to work better. Thought it was just me. Glad to hear I'm not alone.
Just wanted to mention that with the latest firmware update you can switch between different build plates within the menu. No more writing down numbers for different sheets and re-adjusting live Z.
Yes I’ve been using this recently, it is awesome!!
Thank you. You have helped me a lot with this video. I was having issues with adhesion on my new textured sheet. I thought the Z calibration was correct. But I see that I need to lower the Z axis more. Good contribution. Thank you.
The problem people have with poor adhesion with the textured sheet likely has nothing to do with calibration compared to the smooth sheet. I and many others have never owned the smooth sheet and have calibrated the textured sheet perfectly, and we have problems. Fortunately, there's a fix.
The problem (confirmed by Prusa in their blog) can be due to a sugar compound residue left over from the manufacturing process, and this residue cannot be removed with alcohol. There are apparently variations between production runs. Washing the sheet in warm soapy water makes the sheet perfect. Typically one or two washings are sufficient. Some sheets, like mine, keep leeching out that residue and I must periodically wash it every 6-10 prints when I observe alcohol no longer working. After washing the sheet, you can feel the difference along the edges, squeaky clean instead of slippery.
Very interesting, thanks for this. The only issues I have with this sheet today is warping larger prints using PLA. PETG is by far my favourite material to print on these with!
Was going to just say this. Good scrubbing with hot soapy dish soap and prints stick great no matter what filament you use. PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA all work great. Haven’t tried any flex material yet.
The thing with recalibration, I missed that part and will of course do that and keep a separate profile for it. I thought that cleaning even with alcohol was not recommended on the textured one. Read people talk about windex. About sticking to the surface, I thought the whole point with this one was that it would have PETG stick better than the original one and that's why I ordered one. Didn't so much consider pla for it, but thats really good if it's better for that too.
Only done one print though on the textured, a spare part for the printer in PETG (because that's what prusa print them with) . Looked fine, but wasn't sure what to expect. Perhaps I can improve with calibration of first layer.
I added a normal glass bed . And I have not done any maintainence and cleaning I have printed like 50 things and it still prints great
The PRUSA menu has 8 different profiles. 2 for the smooth and 2 for the textured and others. Just the settings you have arrived at for both of your sheets.
It does now, back when I made this video they hadn't released that feature yet
Print first layer @.15 and drop Z to really smoosh it in. The lines will go away on print with the textured sheet.
Thanks
I love the steel sheet for certain things but mainly use the stock sheet as its only downfall is the scratches show through on a flat surface.
Nice channel bro
Subbed from Germany
Greetings
Steel sheet is absolutly beast. Removal of prints is so easy it's stupid.
Agreed! I checked out your channel... cool RC videos man!
Good video buddy
Looking at buying the same printer I am a cnc router man and have a cnc lathe
Do you think I would pick it up ok
I get some parts made outside and looking at bringing them in house
Regards
Dave
I'm having trouble getting the bedsheet to stick. I use a smooth bed sheet. What's best cleaner to clean your bedsheet? Is alcohol is a good choice or Dawn dishwashing soap to use. My printer is not that very old. I got it in a few days before Thanksgiving Holiday. I did have some success with this bedsheet some of my project came good but I do have some bad days with this Prusa miniprinter.
You mentioned calibration of the first layer height. Did you mean z offset? Also do you have STL of the first zig zag test line?
What are you two different live Z settings for the two sheets? Most people seem to drop the nozzle down by about 0.200 for the thinner textured sheet. I'm curious because your example print on the smooth sheet looks like my results when my nozzle is too close to the bed and the lines bunch up more. Also, I've found the textured sheet is more prone to not stick from my fingerprints than the smooth PEI sticker, though I have had success printing filaments that never could stick to the smooth sheet.
How would you prep the bed on the textured sheet for PETG?
Other than recalibrating the Z for the textured sheet there is no prep required for the steel sheet. Set the bed temperature to 80C and you should be fine.
I love the PEI sheet from Prusa. I never use alcohol (and absolutely no acetone) I ONLY use Windex. I clean my plate after almost every print.
I've never tried using Windex! does it work well? I think alcohol wipes are harmless though, they do the job for me!
thehardwareguy try windex . It is simple, ubiquitous and reliable.
@@pherz3775 I use acteone every single time on my PEI sheet on my MK2s, and have had perfect print adhesion every time for 3 years. Acetone does nothing to the smooth PEI sheets except get rid of all signs of fingerprint grease.... However, they warn against using acetone on the powder coated sheets as it may damage the textured finish.
@@ChrisMansellVideos Buble wrap it's shipped in says not to use acetone!
@@pherz3775isn't windex just isopropyl alcohol+aromas? Might as well just go with plain iso
thank you
Thanks for the info, awesome...
Now I want one :D
You won’t regret it!!
I really like the texture that the powder coated sheet gives to the prints, just wished u could get that texture on all sides of the print not just the bottom. Know of any way to accomplish that?
I wish that was possible too! I think you've just given me a video idea! Cheers Rick!
maybe heat up the textured sheet in the oven to a certain temperature, then place the model on there for a few seconds?
dunno if this would work, but would be worth a try...
Yes, it's called Fuzzy skin on Cura hahaha
You can get a textured pattern on the top layer. It's in the PrusaSlicer settings, under infill. Top Layer... set it as "Hilbert Curve" and it doesn't print in lines, but a special pattern that comes out really nice and textured
You can also choose this for the bottom layer, but I've never tried it
@@ChrisMansellVideos - hilbert curve is pretty slow though. Personally I'm partial to the octagram spiral on objects that have symmetry; it makes a beautiful iridescent star pattern, both on the textured and non-textured side. The upcoming PrusaSlicer (and SuperSlicer now) has a top-layer polishing function that looks pretty cool, though, to make a smoother top layer for your prints.
Im on glass with Prusa MK1 and I get a glossy smooth first layer. Is that nasty looking first layer normal for some sheets 2:10
will Powder Coated Spring Steel Sheets work on Nylon & Carbon Fiber Nylon Filaments? Im using garolite for nylon and CF nylon but not satisfied with bottom Layer lines would like Powdercoated because it hides bottom surface layer lines
Hi Terry! I use both of my steel sheets to print in PolyMax Polycarbonate with no issues! I print at 270 nozzle temp and 110 bed temp. Polycarb sticks very well to the Textured sheet, and is easy to remove!
@@thehardwareguy thank you , you wouldn't believe the trouble I've had asking this took days for an answer ha thanks very much . What powder coated sheet would you recommend ? Im looking for 220x220mm size
Very cool video
Thanks for sharing :-)
my first layer is calibrated very nicely and I clean the surface after every print and I just can't get shit to stick for the life of me
BUG on slicerprusa final layer in spiral mode let a gap in center ..!!!!
Great content. Have you also used PETG? I am Interesses in perparatio with Glueck or hairspray with the New sehe
PETG works great on both Steel-sheets! From my experience, glue or hairspray is usually not required, PETG sticks very well, often too well!!
So you are printing PETG on a plain steal sheet, no preparation at all?
@@juergenschubert3247 Yep! I've never done any heat bed prep for PETG!
@@juergenschubert3247 Watch out. Use the powdered for PETG and not the smooth ! It can tear a part of the sheet easily
In my experience, PETG is perfect with the powder coated sheet. You don't need anything at all. With the smooth one, you need glue to separate PEI and PETG otherwise it might stick too well, so that you could not remove the printed object without damaging the sheet.
So what was the difference in height? Im at -.575 with the smooth. Im getting the textured on tomorrow.
Thanks
I'm at -0.145 on mine. Powdercoat sheet.
I know this is an old comment but asking this kinda thing is meaningless because there is pretty much no way that anyone's pinda is mounted in the same exact position. If yours is just a tiny bit higher or lower which it's going to be these measurements aren't going to work for you.
I'm sorry to absolutely disagree with the powder coated sheet. I also own a MK3S, have a lot of experience on this machine (I love it) but my powder coated sheet seems literally to repel the filament completely, at least PLA, PET's adhesive is a bit better but much weaker than the smooth sheet. I did a lot of "LiveZ" adjusting and sheet cleaning procedures but with no notifiable improvements. So from my point of view, it's not a game changer!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! I've actually had similar problems lately with larger prints (only with PLA). I am planning to make a follow up video on this.
It took me some prints to get the powder coated to be good. Have also clean it with soap aswell. Now i just use isopropanol :)
I feel the same so far. I have both sheets and the Smooth sheet works so much better for me. The prints, both PLA AND PETG, jump right off the smooth sheet after printing. I'm having so much good luck with the steel sheet, I see no reason to continue to fumble to get the powder coated one to work better. Thought it was just me. Glad to hear I'm not alone.
Just use the glue for PLA and all your prints will be successful. You have to clean the bed between prints anyway.
@@sudo936 what is the glue? Was that included in the printer kit? Or. Is it some special glue I'd have to order?
Not for PetG destroyed my e3d v6 hotrend.
Hmmm lotsa PITA collateral effects with this one.. Think I'll stay with Tape. Simple, Cheap and 100% reliable.
Btw I heard the powder gets all over your prints so have to be careful
I have used the PEI sheet from Prusa for almost 1 month now and have had no problem with powder transferring to my prints
I've never had this issue!