Now using this on my 1959 Apache, 3100. Thanks SO much for doing a walk through. I’m a visual and tactile learner. So to see it, and someone physical do it, just imprinted in to my tiny brain! Thanks for the information and tutorial! Great job!!!
I have a 1977 Jeep CJ that I’m trying to restore without breaking the bank. I’ve watched hours of videos in how to paint vehicles, and none are as helpful or as informative as yours. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge!
I've sprayed professionally but never at home. I've been wracking my brain on how to adapt to not having all of the toys, tools and optimal conditions. These videos are fantastic and I appreciate the detail on how to overcome issues that DIY'ers will encounter.
I watched the Eastwood video. Great tutorial but not even close to real world conditions for most of us. Thank you for showing us how it actually works out. Looks great. I am sold.
I take it though that as long as prep is top notch that this actually works. I take it that someone starting out this is a good start if unable to get all the more efficient tools like spray gun, compressor, etc. Yes?
Thanks so much for doing this demo, I hope that it will become available in Australia. The major advantage I liked was no overspray. Being able to do it in a small garage without having to fully mask off the whole car and all your tools around it is a major plus to me.
@@lindz151074 their primer is terrible in my experience. I've reluctantly bought some on a few occasions when there was no other options and it performed poorly each time
Thanks for the video's man! This gave me a great idea of how I want to prep and prime my 79 transam. I've learned more watching your videos all day then I learned watching weeks of other videos👍
I have rolled on single stage urethane once. After a cut and buff, it came out flawless. The advantage to roll on is that more material is placed on panel so cutting and buffing is definitely an option for a smooth finish.
Yea, its possible to get a decent mil on via rolling. But far rather spray it. Buutt, you know as well as i, there are probably quite a few people out their who are intimidated by spraying and the prep, or dont have compressors or guns. Most dont realize just how simple it can be with a relatively short time of practice. People dont know what they dont know. Its odd to me but happens in every line of trades
This is fantastic. In a shop setting a paint gun is going to be the way, but for the home hobbyist, this is going to be a new level. 2K products that don't require a gun and compressor is going to be a game changer.
No way....talk about too much work....too much time....and way too complicated. Too many steps...too many products...short pot life...crazy long cure times. And likely too expensive. Get some 2k spray bombs and call it a day.
@@bobwatfprd2328 Everyone is entitled to their opinion but let me say this as someone who works autobody and is restoring cars. This require the same, possibly less steps then normal primer. You still have to mix regular primer and you still have to wait between coats, and with regular primer you'd be bagging the whole car so it wouldn't get covered. A spray on epoxy is still going to require multiple days before sanding, and you'd still want to put urethane on top of it. Then, you'd still want to block the urethane and possibly put more coats on. What I see in this product is something for someone who doesn't have a 30+ gallon compressor or a spray gun. Yes you can get a Harbor Freight gun, but then you need to account for lacquer thinner gallons and cleaning brushes and such. This is aimed at someone who doesn't have a garage to spray paint in or the skill/ ability to mask an entire car and spray down primer, but that's just my opinion.
My grandfather always popped off his rollers and paintbrushes put them in a bag and put them in the freezer so he could use them again. (Plastic bags). Ever tried that? Good video.😂
Thanks Brian! Another great, informative video. I am slowly working on my daily driver, a 2005 xB with a fist size dent and other minor dents and scratches. Your videos are very helpful. Thanks!!!
Thanks for this video. I appreciate the product reviews, especially when from someone other than the manufacturer. Your videos are giving me the encouragement to do my own car. I am currently fixing some rusted floors and other stuff. Hope to get to paint soon.
Been doing the finish on boats with rollers on boats for years with unbelievable results.. They run masking tape around the roller and remove it to get the fuze off
Extremely happy to see all these videos man, they’re really steering me in the right direction. I feel like I have a good idea now on how to start working on the body of my 04 Ford Ranger Edge. Super excited!
We used at are pro shop for small repair years ago the problem was by the time you sand of the rough surface and sharp edge you go right though it don't waste your time !
Hiya Great video nice work thanks for sharing, I'm gonna go back to your first videos and slowly work my way through them back to this one. learn as much as I can it is been quite a while since I've primed & painted my car back in the 90s lol this will help me with my two projects a custom truck & a Coupe both are 37 Chevy's.
Been spending days watching your awesome paint tutorials. Trying to learn as much as possible. Your videos are inspirational and helpful. I've concluded that DIY is more costly and time consuming than having MAACO paint my beater MR2. Now MAACO is not gonna get my car perfect, but it'll save me time and money over DIY. However, I can appreciate the satisfaction and accomplishment from a DIY paint project - but it's just too costly and as a noob I know I will make many mistakes along the way.
Tell me about it, I repainted my motorcycle tank six times over the last 2 years. I'll have a just about perfect, and then screw one little thing up and end up trying to fix it only to make it worse and having to start again. Seriously, for the money I wasted on supplies, I could have hired Banksy to paint my tank with endangered Pandas blood.
I like how you used a extension and a hammer instead of fancy dent repair equipment, those are common tools that cost nomore then $10 and everyone in the comments should have laying around the house, good alternative I’ll be using that same method very soon!!!
I know that this comment was 3 years old but I used this method today it was quick and worked ok even though I have the correct body tools somewhere in my garage but didn't want to spend the time looking for them.🤷♂
Ik this is a old video but can this primer be sprayed out of a gun I bought this kit a long time ago never used it but got a project I'd like to use it on but I'd rather spray it maybe mix it the 1to1 then add some urethane reducer?
You can roll acrylic enamel (industrial scratch-proof paint). Thin it out with mineral spirits, don't even need clear coat. It's a strong, decent finish. Like glass. Wet sand for best results.
@@juansolo1617 any videos on this? what brand paint? if i could match paint to door jams it would be a great option other than base clear i would think... thanks
@@roadstar499 Yeah, most shadetree guys call this the "50 dollar paint job" or the "rustoleum 50 dollar paint job." It's not rattle can paint. It's just rustoleum acrylic enamel, comes in a paint can. I've tried it on a bug and a civic with excellent results. Painted outside, had to wet sand a lot to remove bugs and dirt but the finish was very strong, probably a lot heavier than regular paint (so not good for race vehicles)
Most bodyshops I know won't touch the car if I've done any work on it. I had one with a satirical sign noting differences in pricing: 1. We do all the work $X; 2. You do some of the work $X + $1000.00.
Thanks Brian..... Looks like it's pretty straight forward if you follow directions,, I want a nice driver paint job, black on my 73 Camaro,, I want to do as much , if all the work myself,, do you recommend that I do my Camaro this way....
Great video 🔥🔥 I was about to ask about the odor of the Epoxy but you answered that lol... My project is a 78 Monte Carlo and I'm trying to do all the bodywork and paint it myself in my home garage 💪 your videos are very helpful.... thank you 🙏
great job! could you maybe make a video on how to remove rust and prevent it from coming back? I'm going to respray my car for the first time this winter in my home garage and your videos have given me the confidence i need!
Geez..that's a lot of work. When I do a rehab on my Sonoma Xtreme, I'll install a used tailgate, fenders and hood from my local junk yard and leave the prep and painting to the pros.
It would be interesting to compare the results, effort required and costs between rolling the epoxy and urethane coats, and spraying using a low cost airless electric spray gun.........or have you already done that?😂
I remember one guy at work painted a semi trailer with a roller. It was not made for enamel paint. Needless to say the trailer was Hairy when he was done.😂
Enjoying learning from your channel and experience. Researching, as the rockers on my F 150 are crumbing and I want to attempt the replacement. As epoxys cure, not dry, and the cure rates are heat sensitive, I suggest heating the epoxy with infrared lamps to accelerate the cure. This. and autoclaving are standard composites construction practice in the boat and aerospace industry. Perhaps as simple as applying the epoxy or fillers and go park it in the sun. What would Eastwood say?
seems like a good option if you lack spray equipment and you have someone willing to shoot over your body work. Save on tons of "prep guy" labor cost. But if you have spray equipment it would be outright nuts to use this roller process. Talk about extra sanding!
Makes me wonder if total roll on two stage is possible. If you did clear thick enough you could cut and buff. But it might look funky if the base coat has a bit of texture to it. Not sure how it would look, I suppose the clear would mostly level it out. Might have more depth to it.
No overspray. That means more material on the car. You also conserve solvents by not having to clean the gun. Less wear and tear on your compressor. Now I have to try rolling on the other brands of primers.
As some one just trying to make an older Chevy look presentable on the road I don’t have the operating budget that you do. Plus I live in a small town in Az.. If car Quest doesn’t carry it I am out of luck. What would you say the epoxy and urathan with all the spray cans would run in dollars?
Working on the bed of my 64 long bed c10, going to have the whole thing professionally sand/media blasted (whatever the tech thinks is best) because it is such a large surface with a couple layers of paint. After that I think I’m going to try this roller method unless you would recommend spraying.
Try a spring-loaded punch for high spots. CHEAP at places like Harbor Freight, and it’s Just the right amount of (force) for most high spots. The added benefit is it ‘punches’ a SMALL area, so it can be used on highs of various size. Ymmv ... Love the Channel !
As someone who works at a bodyshop, the last thing i would trust is the word of some rando off the street, saying that he did good work at home. We have had many ppl walk in and say yeah just paint that shit, i did great bodywork home, only to end up finding out that was not the case. If someone like that walks in from the steet, we pretty much always just tell them no thank you now. And no i'm not saying you can't do a good job at home.. some people do a better job at home than "professionals" in an actual bodyshop.
If you can do the prep work at home, and can't find a body shop that will paint it for you, take it to a any paint shop that does cheap paint jobs. Supply them with YOUR 'quaility" paint, do not let them use< the cheap stuff they use in the 55 gallon drums> This is the way to get a good job, providing that you do not have the spray painting skills to do it yourself. MOST of the people at these low dollar paint shops actually do know how to spray paint and can do a nice job for you if you can not do the job yourself. YOU CAN GET A QUALITY JOB ON THE CHEAP, if your willing to do your homework!!
hello there, I'm working on a 1970 Monte Carlo, sanded down to the metal. I'm using this roll on system and noticed that a few panels after 4 days of drying have a more glossy finish then the rest of the car. Any thoughts of why that happened? thank you for your time. I really enjoy your videos by the way.
Seems like a perfect solution for someone like me that doesn’t have the time to strip the whole car in one day and epoxy prime the next. I can strip a section at a time, then roll that section with epoxy to keep it from rusting. And so on…
If you were to try this at home in a garage , You would probably mix the primer a little thicker, The mixing ratio the guy in the video uses is the ratio you would use for spraying. You can see it is a little too thin . Remember the more you put on the less will come off when you are sanding. You can use something called Rocket or accelerator in the primer to help with drying. This is dependant on climate temperature of course. I would also recommend using a dry powder guide coat. As the aerosol guide coat tends to clog up the sandpaper more. Meaning more or less life from the sandpaper, depending which method you use.
All paint should be mixed according to paint manufactured technical data sheets. Inaccurate mixing can result in the improper balance between primer and activator/catalyst causing peeling, chipping or delamination
@@PaintSociety You are 100% correct, But you can make it still a little thicker by adding more primer and more hardener. I definitely would not use less than manufacturers specs. Got 20 plus years of experience, i would not give anyone bad or wrong advice. I do it all the time especially when spray priming on the body filler repairs, i always use a bit less thinners, works better for filling those deep scratches.
@@jeremyking5684 I never said that he did use any reducer in the primer. Adding more primer will make it thicker and give more primer. I would recommend actually using a primer with a 4:1 mixing ratio as the primer would be much thicker to start with, and would be great for primer on body filler repairs .As i previously mentioned, the thicker the better. I also think a 1:1 mixing ratio is a little too thin to start with, as you can see in the video. It's probably more suited to spraying. Remember the more you put on the less comes off during sanding process. That is why i say the thicker the better.
4 days to dry? Like bodywork doesn't take long enough.... Forget that. I guess I can see certain instances where it would be good on a big resto project doing a panel at a time and setting aside etc.. not having to worry about overspray. I don't know I think I would stick with spray
I purchased this kit to try on my girlfriends 1971 corvette. Since the car is fiberglass, should i go over the epoxy primer with polyeurothene primer before using the eurothene primer?
I like the idea of this as I plan to rent a booth to re-paint my car but I have body work to do as if I doing all this I best get out all the dang dents and such ... but sounds like if I use this system I best be prepared to literally park my car inside the garage and not drive it during all this ... my front bumper required its share of sanding still not sure what the heck to use for that ... I assume it would be the rattle can stuff they give you to spray those as the thing has so many nooks and crannys I don't see being able to roll this stuff onto it at all ...
Ever do anything on say a motorcycle tank. I'm really riding the struggle bus with decals. They need to be cleared over and I'm just not sure I could tackle it!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Now using this on my 1959 Apache, 3100. Thanks SO much for doing a walk through. I’m a visual and tactile learner. So to see it, and someone physical do it, just imprinted in to my tiny brain! Thanks for the information and tutorial! Great job!!!
I have a 1977 Jeep CJ that I’m trying to restore without breaking the bank. I’ve watched hours of videos in how to paint vehicles, and none are as helpful or as informative as yours. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge!
I've sprayed professionally but never at home. I've been wracking my brain on how to adapt to not having all of the toys, tools and optimal conditions. These videos are fantastic and I appreciate the detail on how to overcome issues that DIY'ers will encounter.
I watched the Eastwood video. Great tutorial but not even close to real world conditions for most of us. Thank you for showing us how it actually works out. Looks great. I am sold.
What a guy you inspire other to try do it yourself which encourage others be independent. Which is kool
Rumor has it he’s still sanding 👀
D was
😂😂😂😂
And singing, "III'm still sanding, better than I ever did...." 🕺
Because it's all about the universal 80/20 Rule. In this case he is doing 80% prep and 20% painting.
I take it though that as long as prep is top notch that this actually works. I take it that someone starting out this is a good start if unable to get all the more efficient tools like spray gun, compressor, etc. Yes?
When he pulled out the claw hammer and started doing bodywork I had to subscribe
Thanks so much for doing this demo, I hope that it will become available in Australia. The major advantage I liked was no overspray. Being able to do it in a small garage without having to fully mask off the whole car and all your tools around it is a major plus to me.
P
Kim Keam have you since used this kit or another roll on system? Eastwoods just too expensive for me personally here in Aus
I think supercheap primer filler is gonna have to do do my quarter panel 😊
@@lindz151074 their primer is terrible in my experience. I've reluctantly bought some on a few occasions when there was no other options and it performed poorly each time
Sorry for the delayed response due to medical issues. I haven’t tried it yet but hope to mid February. I’ll text you when I have done it. Thanks
Thanks, Brian, I just saved a lot of money on a spray job, My 2006 Silverado looks like it came from the dealer. It is all about the prep and process.
Thanks for the video's man! This gave me a great idea of how I want to prep and prime my 79 transam. I've learned more watching your videos all day then I learned watching weeks of other videos👍
I have rolled on single stage urethane once. After a cut and buff, it came out flawless. The advantage to roll on is that more material is placed on panel so cutting and buffing is definitely an option for a smooth finish.
rolling the way he did puts on waaay less material than a spray
Yea, its possible to get a decent mil on via rolling. But far rather spray it. Buutt, you know as well as i, there are probably quite a few people out their who are intimidated by spraying and the prep, or dont have compressors or guns. Most dont realize just how simple it can be with a relatively short time of practice. People dont know what they dont know. Its odd to me but happens in every line of trades
This is fantastic. In a shop setting a paint gun is going to be the way, but for the home hobbyist, this is going to be a new level. 2K products that don't require a gun and compressor is going to be a game changer.
No way....talk about too much work....too much time....and way too complicated. Too many steps...too many products...short pot life...crazy long cure times. And likely too expensive. Get some 2k spray bombs and call it a day.
@@bobwatfprd2328 Everyone is entitled to their opinion but let me say this as someone who works autobody and is restoring cars. This require the same, possibly less steps then normal primer. You still have to mix regular primer and you still have to wait between coats, and with regular primer you'd be bagging the whole car so it wouldn't get covered. A spray on epoxy is still going to require multiple days before sanding, and you'd still want to put urethane on top of it. Then, you'd still want to block the urethane and possibly put more coats on. What I see in this product is something for someone who doesn't have a 30+ gallon compressor or a spray gun. Yes you can get a Harbor Freight gun, but then you need to account for lacquer thinner gallons and cleaning brushes and such. This is aimed at someone who doesn't have a garage to spray paint in or the skill/ ability to mask an entire car and spray down primer, but that's just my opinion.
@@bobwatfprd2328 "get some 2k spray bombs". Huh? Are you for or against rolling? You're making it out like 2k pressure packs arent crazy expensive
Nice vid - As a newbie who cannot spray in my area, I appreciate the following of instructions to prove it out.
Eastwood should change their promo and use this video. Excellent job!
Great video! showing and explaining how to do a professional job...this type of system is for the people that want to keep their cars for years...
Resto mod out here on the PNW coast , includes rust conversion with OSPHO and epoxy on the back side of each panel as well .
I am excited for this series. Really interested to see how the paint job comes out. I learn something new every time I watch.
It was used in the forties I believe even heard of it in the sixties.
My grandfather always popped off his rollers and paintbrushes put them in a bag and put them in the freezer so he could use them again. (Plastic bags). Ever tried that? Good video.😂
Thank god I own a paint booth. That’s the best backwoods hillbilly primer I’ve ever seen.
Always wondered what socket extension are used for. 🤪
Now, I can't un-see it. 😲
👍
A nice work, well done review. Professionalized scenario and the products was presented in detail like it shoulded be. 👏 thanks
Thanks Brian! Another great, informative video. I am slowly working on my daily driver, a 2005 xB with a fist size dent and other minor dents and scratches. Your videos are very helpful. Thanks!!!
I’m
Looking at my Salsa Red 06 XB. My clear coat is flaking off on the roof. Looks terrible. Need to do body work first.
Incredible!!! No cloud of overspray in the backyard to annoy wife or neighbors!!!
Outstanding tutorial and evaluation of this relatively new technique!
new lmfao did this when i was a kid
Thanks for this video. I appreciate the product reviews, especially when from someone other than the manufacturer.
Your videos are giving me the encouragement to do my own car. I am currently fixing some rusted floors and other stuff. Hope to get to paint soon.
Been doing the finish on boats with rollers on boats for years with unbelievable results.. They run masking tape around the roller and remove it to get the fuze off
Extremely happy to see all these videos man, they’re really steering me in the right direction.
I feel like I have a good idea now on how to start working on the body of my 04 Ford Ranger Edge.
Super excited!
Great Job. I love to watch your videos and try and make my channel fun for everyone to watch and learn. Thanks again CW
We used at are pro shop for small repair years ago the problem was by the time you sand of the rough surface and sharp edge you go right though it don't waste your time !
The roller doesn't cover everything in the garage with a layer of primer, which means it can even be used in the house, unlike a paint sprayer.
Had an uncle that once painted his 68 Skylark using this same method lol
Hiya Great video nice work thanks for sharing, I'm gonna go back to your first videos and slowly work my way through them back to this one. learn as much as I can it is been quite a while since I've primed & painted my car back in the 90s lol this will help me with my two projects a custom truck & a Coupe both are 37 Chevy's.
Been spending days watching your awesome paint tutorials. Trying to learn as much as possible. Your videos are inspirational and helpful. I've concluded that DIY is more costly and time consuming than having MAACO paint my beater MR2. Now MAACO is not gonna get my car perfect, but it'll save me time and money over DIY. However, I can appreciate the satisfaction and accomplishment from a DIY paint project - but it's just too costly and as a noob I know I will make many mistakes along the way.
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Tell me about it, I repainted my motorcycle tank six times over the last 2 years. I'll have a just about perfect, and then screw one little thing up and end up trying to fix it only to make it worse and having to start again. Seriously, for the money I wasted on supplies, I could have hired Banksy to paint my tank with endangered Pandas blood.
Great work!
I like how you used a extension and a hammer instead of fancy dent repair equipment, those are common tools that cost nomore then $10 and everyone in the comments should have laying around the house, good alternative I’ll be using that same method very soon!!!
I know that this comment was 3 years old but I used this method today it was quick and worked ok even though I have the correct body tools somewhere in my garage but didn't want to spend the time looking for them.🤷♂
Another fantastic video! I'm an Eastwood customer and saw this roll on system. Thanks for all the valuable tips!
Ik this is a old video but can this primer be sprayed out of a gun I bought this kit a long time ago never used it but got a project I'd like to use it on but I'd rather spray it maybe mix it the 1to1 then add some urethane reducer?
I have absolutely zero reason to watch this but I will anyway
why tell us?
@@johnsherman7289 because his videos are just fun to watch
Great lesson Brian!😃
First time I've seen that eastwood sct in action. Not bad👍
That’s awesome didn’t know they had a roll on product some diy era may prefer that !
I would if It turned out good and smooth
I’m sure I can get it smoother if i has used the foam roller only.
You can roll acrylic enamel (industrial scratch-proof paint). Thin it out with mineral spirits, don't even need clear coat. It's a strong, decent finish. Like glass. Wet sand for best results.
@@juansolo1617 any videos on this? what brand paint? if i could match paint to door jams it would be a great option other than base clear i would think... thanks
@@roadstar499 Yeah, most shadetree guys call this the "50 dollar paint job" or the "rustoleum 50 dollar paint job." It's not rattle can paint. It's just rustoleum acrylic enamel, comes in a paint can. I've tried it on a bug and a civic with excellent results. Painted outside, had to wet sand a lot to remove bugs and dirt but the finish was very strong, probably a lot heavier than regular paint (so not good for race vehicles)
Great product if u have all the time in the world and no bills to pay
At 28:20 you say you are going to smooth out that epoxy spray , I think you meant to say , Well your doin a good job and keep it up , Thanx
Most bodyshops I know won't touch the car if I've done any work on it. I had one with a satirical sign noting differences in pricing: 1. We do all the work $X; 2. You do some of the work $X + $1000.00.
Ouch. I can understand their prospective.
And yet I think the mindset is opposite for Maaco. Get that prep done before going to Maaco, cuz all they will do is "spray"
Did you finish the painting in a different video?@@PaintSociety
@GaHullbillyRanch yes
You had me at Duct Tape! Lol
Thanks Brian..... Looks like it's pretty straight forward if you follow directions,, I want a nice driver paint job, black on my 73 Camaro,, I want to do as much , if all the work myself,, do you recommend that I do my Camaro this way....
4 days is a killer mercy!
Looks great can’t wait to see how it turns out
Excellent instructions!
Great video 🔥🔥 I was about to ask about the odor of the Epoxy but you answered that lol... My project is a 78 Monte Carlo and I'm trying to do all the bodywork and paint it myself in my home garage 💪 your videos are very helpful.... thank you 🙏
Yea it stank. Cool project !
@@PaintSociety Thank you!
great job! could you maybe make a video on how to remove rust and prevent it from coming back? I'm going to respray my car for the first time this winter in my home garage and your videos have given me the confidence i need!
You can buy a can of rust converter, turns rust into a polymer
I'm so impressed with the quality of work you produced in the video. I am asking you if you can
Continue to share the more of your good work.
Great video...again. Thanks.
Nice job young man, you make a very good instructor. I like Eastwood products too. I'll bet you're a pro anyway.
Check the channel out - he is - he runs a major body shop at a dealership.
Use a cotton glove when feeling for high spots - for some reason, it increases sensitivity, and keeps skin oils, etc off the paint and metal.
Good show...
Theres quite much info load in my head 🙆
Lot'ff thanx bro.
Blessed always will you
& thm ALL behind 💚
Very nice job my friend
Question about the roof section. Why not just sanding the roof, paint it with colour match base coat and finish it with 2k clear coat?
Geez..that's a lot of work. When I do a rehab on my Sonoma Xtreme, I'll install a used tailgate, fenders and hood from my local junk yard and leave the prep and painting to the pros.
It would be interesting to compare the results, effort required and costs between rolling the epoxy and urethane coats, and spraying using a low cost airless electric spray gun.........or have you already done that?😂
I rolled on speedcote epoxy primer, bought some rollers at home depot. Much, much cheaper than the overpriced eastwood kit
I remember one guy at work painted a semi trailer with a roller. It was not made for enamel paint. Needless to say the trailer was Hairy when he was done.😂
Enjoying learning from your channel and experience. Researching, as the rockers on my F 150 are crumbing and I want to attempt the replacement. As epoxys cure, not dry, and the cure rates are heat sensitive, I suggest heating the epoxy with infrared lamps to accelerate the cure. This. and autoclaving are standard composites construction practice in the boat and aerospace industry. Perhaps as simple as applying the epoxy or fillers and go park it in the sun. What would Eastwood say?
thanks, gonna try this out on my 81 Chevy C10
Great job can't wait to start on my project . Thanks alot keep up the good demons.
seems like a good option if you lack spray equipment and you have someone willing to shoot over your body work. Save on tons of "prep guy" labor cost. But if you have spray equipment it would be outright nuts to use this roller process. Talk about extra sanding!
If you like the primer color can you put clear coat over it without paint?
Awesome video bro. Very detailed instructions
AWESOME Video! Great job Brian!!
Makes me wonder if total roll on two stage is possible. If you did clear thick enough you could cut and buff. But it might look funky if the base coat has a bit of texture to it. Not sure how it would look, I suppose the clear would mostly level it out. Might have more depth to it.
Maybe I’ll give it a try
@@PaintSociety Please do this. Would really like to see the result. Thank you. Really enjoy your videos.
No overspray. That means more material on the car. You also conserve solvents by not having to clean the gun. Less wear and tear on your compressor. Now I have to try rolling on the other brands of primers.
As some one just trying to make an older Chevy look presentable on the road I don’t have the operating budget that you do. Plus I live in a small town in Az.. If car Quest doesn’t carry it I am out of luck. What would you say the epoxy and urathan with all the spray cans would run in dollars?
Working on the bed of my 64 long bed c10, going to have the whole thing professionally sand/media blasted (whatever the tech thinks is best) because it is such a large surface with a couple layers of paint. After that I think I’m going to try this roller method unless you would recommend spraying.
Spraying is smoother but the rolling on primer can and will work.
Paint Society do you have any videos on polishing trim?
I don’t. Sorry
Try a spring-loaded punch for high spots. CHEAP at places like Harbor Freight, and it’s Just the right amount of (force) for most high spots. The added benefit is it ‘punches’ a SMALL area, so it can be used on highs of various size. Ymmv ...
Love the Channel !
Awesome advice
Wow, a ton of products and bet the $$$ ad up.
Compare that to what a paint job would cost you at a body shop.
As someone who works at a bodyshop, the last thing i would trust is the word of some rando off the street, saying that he did good work at home. We have had many ppl walk in and say yeah just paint that shit, i did great bodywork home, only to end up finding out that was not the case. If someone like that walks in from the steet, we pretty much always just tell them no thank you now.
And no i'm not saying you can't do a good job at home.. some people do a better job at home than "professionals" in an actual bodyshop.
It can be done at home and that might be scary for autobody professionals.
If you can do the prep work at home, and can't find a body shop that will paint it for you, take it to a any paint shop that does cheap paint jobs. Supply them with YOUR 'quaility" paint, do not let them use< the cheap stuff they use in the 55 gallon drums> This is the way to get a good job, providing that you do not have the spray painting skills to do it yourself. MOST of the people at these low dollar paint shops actually do know how to spray paint and can do a nice job for you if you can not do the job yourself. YOU CAN GET A QUALITY JOB ON THE CHEAP, if your willing to do your homework!!
My man you are the S*&#👍👍💯💯... ive taken tips on preparing my car so i get it to paint...
Awesome video good information and you know what you are doing
Do you have to strip all of the original paint if you want to paint a new color?
As you get more experience you will be able to feel the high and low spots before you primer.
hello there, I'm working on a 1970 Monte Carlo, sanded down to the metal. I'm using this roll on system and noticed that a few panels after 4 days of drying have a more glossy finish then the rest of the car. Any thoughts of why that happened? thank you for your time.
I really enjoy your videos by the way.
This is the most convincing aircraft stripper ad.
Watch Brian's body stripper video and you will change your mind. The Gov'mt has outlawed the good stuff and the new stuff doesn't work.
Really good quality video, good helpful info. Thanks. Are there any videos on recommended compressors for the do it yourselfer? Thanks.
Seems like a perfect solution for someone like me that doesn’t have the time to strip the whole car in one day and epoxy prime the next. I can strip a section at a time, then roll that section with epoxy to keep it from rusting. And so on…
Thanks!! This is the system I'm going to use!!!
If you were to try this at home in a garage , You would probably mix the primer a little thicker, The mixing ratio the guy in the video uses is the ratio you would use for spraying.
You can see it is a little too thin . Remember the more you put on the less will come off when you are sanding.
You can use something called Rocket or accelerator in the primer to help with drying. This is dependant on climate temperature of course.
I would also recommend using a dry powder guide coat. As the aerosol guide coat tends to clog up the sandpaper more. Meaning more or less life from the sandpaper, depending which method you use.
All paint should be mixed according to paint manufactured technical data sheets. Inaccurate mixing can result in the improper balance between primer and activator/catalyst causing peeling, chipping or delamination
@@PaintSociety You are 100% correct, But you can make it still a little thicker by adding more primer and more hardener. I definitely would not use less than manufacturers specs. Got 20 plus years of experience, i would not give anyone bad or wrong advice. I do it all the time especially when spray priming on the body filler repairs, i always use a bit less thinners, works better for filling those deep scratches.
@@mycarprobs6688 he didn't use any reducer in the primer, so mixing more primer and hardner want make it thicker just more volume of primer!
@@jeremyking5684 I never said that he did use any reducer in the primer.
Adding more primer will make it thicker and give more primer.
I would recommend actually using a primer with a 4:1 mixing ratio as the primer would be much thicker to start with, and would be great for primer on body filler repairs .As i previously mentioned, the thicker the better.
I also think a 1:1 mixing ratio is a little too thin to start with, as you can see in the video. It's probably more suited to spraying.
Remember the more you put on the less comes off during sanding process.
That is why i say the thicker the better.
4 days to dry? Like bodywork doesn't take long enough.... Forget that. I guess I can see certain instances where it would be good on a big resto project doing a panel at a time and setting aside etc.. not having to worry about overspray. I don't know I think I would stick with spray
I purchased this kit to try on my girlfriends 1971 corvette. Since the car is fiberglass, should i go over the epoxy primer with polyeurothene primer before using the eurothene primer?
so for a DIY non compressor option, which one can give you the best result: rattle spray can, or roll-on?
Brian, have you ever heard of POR15 top coat and what do you think about it? And how do I find your reply? Thank You, Chris.
I thought the epoxy goes over bare metal only but you use it on paint after you sand off the sealer coat?
Also if you plan to use roll epoxy, how do you sand and treat the area on my truck that has textured paint to protect against stone damage?
Great Vid, anyway to fix curb rash on chrome rims??
I like the idea of this as I plan to rent a booth to re-paint my car but I have body work to do as if I doing all this I best get out all the dang dents and such ... but sounds like if I use this system I best be prepared to literally park my car inside the garage and not drive it during all this ...
my front bumper required its share of sanding still not sure what the heck to use for that ... I assume it would be the rattle can stuff they give you to spray those as the thing has so many nooks and crannys I don't see being able to roll this stuff onto it at all ...
Iv been doing this for years ..you have to sand it back anyway..alot friender on over spray for garage.
What is the ratios for expoxy primer. Trying to save a few bucks instead of buying this kit. Thanks
Most excellent...... Inspiring!
Ever do anything on say a motorcycle tank. I'm really riding the struggle bus with decals. They need to be cleared over and I'm just not sure I could tackle it!
Not bad using a roll good work👍
Is there a way to know or tell when you need a new roller? Also how many rollers are in the set? Thanks
Aren't those high spots on the trunk just the trunk reinforcement underneath? It looks like it has a symmetrical pattern
Could be. I can say though they were high based off the sanding but not when you went and felt them