How To Roll On Primer - Painting a Car with OPTIFLOW Roll On Paint System - Eastwood
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2020
- Mark shows us how to save THOUSANDS by using the OPTIFLOW Roll-On Primer System!
MORE INFO: www.eastwood.com/paints/prime...
The OptiFlow Ultimate Kit has EVERYTHING you need to go from bare metal to primer and ready for basecoat/color! This Ultimate Kit includes everything from the Complete Epoxy Kit plus Urethane Primer. The only thing you need to do is supply the body filler. The Ultimate Kit includes everything you need to apply OptiFlow Epoxy and Urethane Primers, PLUS all the tools and supplies to get it block sanded, whether you're tackling the entire project or just doing one panel at a time! With excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance over bare steel as well as aluminum, fiberglass, body fillers and even existing finishes, these primers are the basis for a perfectly straight car with NO PAINT GUN NEEDED!
Easily get your project in primer and ready for body work and basecoat, saving you time and money. It goes on so smooth everyone will think the great results came from an expensive HVLP spray gun. This Ultaimate Kit includes everything you need - Epoxy Primer, Urethane Primer, Large and Small Rollers with Handle Frames and Trays, Mixing Cups, 2K AeroSpray Epoxy and Urethane for hard-to-reach spots as well as Guide Coat for finding imperfections in the body, plus Durablock sanding blocks and all the grits of sandpaper you need, simplifying the job as much as possible.
OPTIFLOW Advantages
Save THOUSANDS when you do it yourself, and that's money you can spend on an engine, wheels or more tools!
No overspray (in your garage or on the neighbor's car)
Minimal masking required
No airline contamination
Confidence to primer your project! Plus pride in knowing you did it yourself.
Specially formulated primer for roll-on application with rollers designed for this process.
Fast and easy cleanup
OPTIFLOW Epoxy and Urethane Ultimate Kit Details
Epoxy has an easy 1:1 mix ratio with separate catalyst (item 23131) to make two roll-able gallons. Enough to cover most cars.
Urethane has a 4:1 mix ratio with with separate catalyst (23133). Enough to cover most cars.
Epoxy sands easily 2-3 days after application. Urethane sands easily after a 4 hour cure time.
Epoxy and Urethane are both DTM Primers - Direct To Metal application for a strong bond. Even apply over existing coatings, fiberglass and fillers.
Epoxy and Urethane are both 50 State Compliant, Low VOC Formulas that contains no lead, chromate or isocyanates.
All the materials you need are included! You just supply the body filler.
Awesome results without overspray or professional spray equipment. Plus no gun to clean. Save Time & Money.
Includes enough primer to cover a car in both Epoxy and Urethane as well as everything you need to apply both coatings.
Nobody will know it was rolled-on unless you tell them!
For more information on Eastwood products visit www.eastwood.com or stay connected with the team via:
Facebook - / eastwoodcompany
Instagram - / eastwoodco
Blog - www.eastwood.com/blog
Eastwood has everything you need to do the job right when you're restoring a car, truck or motorcycle - from welders to paint and everything in between. - Авто та транспорт
I'm no painter but I would certainly go this route! Couple of years ago I was at a local car show talking to a man about his 68 fairlane ranchero. When I pressed him about who did the paint job he stated he did the body and knock down work then took it to Maco. I started chuckling then he stopped me and said "That's all those guys do is paint." He also done a walk around with them to look for imperfections and for a little more they corrected them. All in all he said he walked out of there under a $1,000.00 lighter in the wallet. It was a good looking paint job.
This is awesome! Thanks for always looking out for us “driveway” guys!
You're welcome!
Lol...
I was a teenager in 1969.
My neighbor across the street was a grand old guy who drove a new looking 1948 Chrysler sedan.
He bought it new and drove it daily.
The paint was black, and very thick.
He told me he used to work for Duesenberg, the premier American car mfg in the 1920's and 30's.
He told he had been an assembly line painter.
I asked how they spray painted these magnificent hand built cars with such thick coats of paint?
He laughed and said they used paint brushes and hand painted each car.
I was dumbfounded.
He said you either got good at it or you lost your job.
It made sense, when they hand brushed heavy coats of paint, then hand sanded to a perfect finish.
I am now a paint coatings formulation chemist!
love it!
I often wondered why paint on older cars was so thick. Thanks for sharing.
Great idea. Not having an indoor space to spray is a huge disadvantage for the DIY'er. Every medium size town has a budget paint shop that is very good at laying down finish coats. This will save folks a lot of dough. Good work.
I would quit my job right now and work for free to learn how to paint from this guy
This has been around for a while since the 90’s but now it’s much better, higher resin content and adhesion. Save a lot of time even in a professional shop like mine no need to fight for booth space
This is a well-presented, well-organized video for the novice doing work in their garage or driveway. Thanks!
Hey, this bound to work.I had an old international pickup while I lived in Indiana back in the late 1970s.I roller painted it. Great stuff, but I used a longer nap roller and should have used a short nap.But, hey that truck gave up rusting.I really think the advances in painting are really great.It still think it takes a skilled hand for a top notch paint job.Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
Think I’m going to get this kit for my 67 cutlass love your equipment have a bunch this is my first restoration project 👍👍
this can and will make the job of home bodywork/painting so much easier!! I love the benefits of an epoxy primer and being able to roll on coats makes it even better.
Amen brother!
Great video. I have used much the same method for many years on motorcycles and cars. This is one of the things I learned from my Dad. We also completed the Lacquer finish with the same method.
Great for the DIY guys without a big compressor and no overspray to worry about.
This is a great product for those large, mostly flat panels you want to block straight.
Great video and DIY product.
Thanks you Dave, hit the nail right on the head!
Just bought this system to start panel projects on my 66 Ford Galaxie in need of some love. We live in Ontario CA and we are working outside in the driveway during summer. Starting up tomorrow at 4am to beat the heat. Looking forward to giving my car the layer of protection in needs.
Mark taught me how to paint a car in that beginners guide video and now I’m watching this and getting the same vibes lol
Mark's the man!
God damn, at first i was thinking that it wasn't that practical until the presenter did his job and made some great points: no home made spray booth and no neighbors complaining.
Thanks! Mark does a great job explaining things - super knowledge guy, Eastwood is proud to have him!
I would've loved to have had this when I was restoring my VW. The amount of work necessary to mask a car and prep a garage for spray-primering was 9/10's of the work. Next time I will definitely try this system. Thanks for sharing this us! Subscribed and cheers!
Thanks for SUBSCRIBING!
Work the system, trust the guide coat. I like that.
Loved the segment!
i like the way he walks you through this. looks like a great product!
Thanks, Mark is a great teacher for sure!
I am getting ready to start on my first time with Optiflow Roll On paint system . working on my 1954 chevy 210 2 door coupe. Thanks for the information .
my 8-9 steps to paint for bare metal
1- strip old paint
2-scuff to 80
3- 2-3 coats of metal etch primer (there should still be small scratches for filler to cling to)
4-filler
5-block
6-as many coats of high build as you want but minimum of 2
7-block with 320grit then 600grit once flat
8-high build and block again if needed
9- paint
for a scuff and shoot paint job (much faster)
1- sand with 240/320grit on a DA
2- fill in any imperfections
3- sand whole car with 400
4 if using single stage paint that's plenty
5- if using a base clear sand to 600
6-paint
It makes sense that this product would be really effective as a filler primer. There’s no reason your filler primer has to be perfectly level and have an amazing finish when any decent body guy is going to sand and recoat multiple times. Awesome idea.
thanks!
Very instructive and helpful. Thanks Eastwood. Definitely going to do this to my 73 Dodge Charger.😎
That is an insane product. Until I can paint I usually spot and spray bomb the areas. Being able to roll primer will eliminate me from doing that. Very nice
I rolled the primer on my vintage Porsche and it turned out great! Awesome to have this in one system.
We make it as simple as possible, multiple kits available! www.eastwood.com/paints/optiflow-roll-on-primer-system-paint.html
All i can say is wow! Exactly why wouldent thus be the smart way for guys like me in my home garage! Im redoing my 88 gt foxbody now and im definately going to try this!
Glad we could help out!
Brilliant video thank you especially blocking back to remove your scratches from blocking body filler back using guide coat between sand back thank you
Great step by step video guys. I use mostly all Eastwood products for my garage auto body projects.
Awesome! Thank you!
I just purchased this & can’t wait 😊 to test it 💪🏾
Let us know what you think! Share photos with us on Facebook or Instagram too if you like
I love this. I did this very same with rustoleum paint. I hope to do another one soon.
I'm doing a 68 LeMans right now. And it's coming out really good thanks Eastwood.
Glad to hear it!
I've been thinking about painting the race car. Ive dam near done everything else myself and now want to get it to 1 color. Thanks!
We have been rolling on primer/surfacer for years. Mainly due to voc's. It works fine, but you sand most of it off to get smooth surface. If you can spray it, spray it. You will use 50% less mater.
I've been using this system for years especially on my Van's... and l use good quality household paints..paint outside...but on a good day ..it lasts for 5 years. That lasts for 5+ no real cleaning...no varnish...van left out in the sun and rain...
Obviously one is always looking for a better finish...but believe me it is good...but as always prepping is a must..
Amazing!
I'm getting ready to do bodywork on a '50 GMC. this has my curiosity piqued.
this is a crazy good video.
Exactly what I was looking for! My labor and time are WAY cheaper than what the body shop charges.
We love OptiFlow
this works good,timing the job to the temperature on the can makes it happen,same way every time,read the labels
After 50 years of doing this for a living, I thought I seen it all 😁
I wouldn't mind seeing a car finished in Acrylic enamel over this primer and see how it turned out.
Me too, im about to do this on mine.
Ordered my ultimate epoxy and urethane kit to give it a go on my 88 Supra!
Let us know what you think!
Kind of a cool enviro-friendly product.I have been a professional painter/restoration for 30 years. I think this would work OK on the initial epoxy/prime coat,getting all that texture out would be a lot of work .This is definitely a product for the DIY guy, the cool thing about it is no overspray/primer cloud rolling out of the garage.No Toxic fumes although i would still wear a respirator.I think that it has it's place in the car hobby.
Honestly, it lays EXTREMELY smooth, we've formulated it to flow out beautifully 👍
Nothing in automotive is eco-friendly.
That is an awesome tutorial on what and how to do it.
Thank you, could not be easier!
@@eastwoodco why does the presenter in the video say the car is now ready for a single stage paint job, does this system not work with 2 stage?
I understand wanting to mask engine bay, interior, openings etc when using the aerosol. Why do the wings, roof etc if they are going to be rollered anyway? This looks amazing, as most issues on GRP (microblisters) cars come from moisture in the primer stages. You need a brilliant environment for a compressor to avoid that moisture and this seems such a brilliant solution to avoid issues with moisture in the preparation stages and could be done in poor weather.
Very informative thanks.
You're welcome!
Now THAT was amazing........................................................
Thanks, roll-on primer has come a long way, glad we can make the process as easy as possible for everyone!
Thanks man!!,,
I ordered this roll-on epoxy and urethane primer kit and was initially excited but now I'm pretty bummed. I called tech support to ask for recommendations on the basecoat/clear coat for finishing the job. The women told me that only compatibility of Eastwood base coats are guaranteed and she was totally resistant to provide assistance in recommending a basecoat. I was told I'd be on my own and would have to test compatibility on a small area. Eastwood cannot provide custom tints, has only a few OEM colors available and the sample cards are "stuck at the print shop". This information seems totally counter to the concept of this video--to apply the DIY primer system and take it to a paint shop. The catch seems to be that the paint shop would need to use the limited finishes available from Eastwood to finish the job.
How would you guys remove bedliner the quickest way? only to reapply bedliner (so its okay if the surface is roughed up)
I have using a small foam roller to apply primer for years.
How much time from applying the OptiFlow epoxy primer do you have before applying the body filler without taking it down to the bare metal? In other words if you play the OPTi flow epoxy primer right after media blasting the car but don’t have time to do the body filler, do you have to take each spot down to the bare metal or just stuff it and prep it with 220 grit?
Thank you 🙏
Holyshit in Cheyenne I've never seen this before and I'm about to do the body work on my 69 drag Chevelle this is absolutely awesome I'm going to have to buy your system right now
I've been painting cars like this since the 80s just different materials used now.
Very informative video. I used to brush epoxy primer on hidden surfaces and would have been reluctant to rool epoxy primer on visible surfaces. But I don't understand why it is necessary to strip all the old paint. It is because a roller is used ? Once body work is done (spot repair + bondo, the old paint being removed only where necessary) it seems to me that we can spray epoxy primer over an entire pannel to seal it and then spray a 2K primer surfacer.
So on the last coat of epoxy do you sand, before applying the urethane? Also after the urethane and before the base coat, do you need to sand the urethane? I’m almost ready to go for it.
What kind of tip did you guys use to paint doors
Would you recommend using this system on a fiberglass body corvette? Any differences in sanding techniques?
I would like to try this but may b just a sample to see how good it works I am a dyi guy so this would be a learning experience for me I never did body work I am just dabbling in it on my c10 I just welded on my cab corners Man that was a learning experience
Mark does a great job of laying out the procedure while offering advice and pointers from his years of experience - Definitely instills confidence to try it yourself!
Now if you can just come up with a finish coat with the same results
@Jerk Of All Trades The old cars were not sprayed, they were brushed and buffed.
You can get the glass finish without spraying. Using a suitable material, paint thickness is not the primary cause of chipping. It can be done. Spraying is much easier than this old process, especially on curved and complex surfaces. You can prime the car in minutes with a gun, unlike the roller.
Using the roller has its place, just not in a high production environment.
Kbs paints...insane stuff...
@@davidparker9676
That was the model T Ford that was brushed
@Jerk Of All Trades you don't have a clue what you are talking about.
@@davidparker9676 i did this in 1990 to a 74 dodge challenger,used old PPG primer at the time,thinned it 40% KONDAR,when you know you're gonna carve the car out of the primer using sandpaper,its easy,prep is everything,you want a better paint job,prep it perfect,two weeks work for 45 minutes in the booth,that's the way it is
great information for me, I've done the first few steps and is very close to getting the Urethane on. Question, after the 4 coats of urethane, how long does it need to cure before base coat. and how do you prep for base coat? do you need to sand with 1000 grit or anything, or just clean with 'pre' and tack cloth?
So after the 4th coat you honestly would not have to wet sand before putting on your base coat? Also, will any other paint brand system work with this?
How long can I leave this primer on before painting? will it stand up in outside weather? Also do I have to go down to bare metal?
I like that
I mixed the epoxy and hardener at a 50/50 ratio. After 2 days it still seems soft. Impossible to sand. What could I have done wrong?
I paint - a lot. Cars, boats, houses, motorcycles, etc. I have lots of spray equipment, but I can tell you that the highest quality jobs I do are boats that are painted exactly this way. This is how most boats are painted, since it puts more paint on the surface, and alleviates the need for an enormous paint booth. Also saves your neighbors (and your shop) from the indignity of all that catalyzed over spray. (most catalysts are isocyanates - they're as bad as they sound...) Also saves your lungs from that same isocyanate over spray. After you watch this video, search "rolling and tipping). You'll be a convert.
What's the difference between this and under reducing any other primer?
I am a beginner and my question is that the video mentions using "single stage and clear." Are we limited to using single stage paint or can we use dual stage and clear paint process, once the vehicle is ready for paint?
I'm confused about the urethane coat. Once it's rolled on wouldn't you have to cut it back somewhat as I assume there would be some sort of roller mark or at least some roughness? Unless this stuff lays completely flat which I'd love to see. I've painted a few cars and had the ear of some good guys, before I'd have my car in the booth I'd have to have it at least DA'd with 320, some even say get it down to 600. IIRC the sealers I use state that on the tech sheets. To me it looks like theres still some work to do. Unless the urethane is acting as a sealer here.
BTW not talking shit here, I'd love to use this product to save on booth time but just curious...
Is it easy to mix up smaller batches of epoxy? I have a rust bucket 64 mercury convertible that is a bit of a Frankenstein lots of welding pieces together as replacement parts don't exist. It is taking a long time to weld together and finish each portion of the car. I have spray equipment but am looking to prime it piece meal so that repairs don't rust up before I finish all rough body work. Have been coating with green spray can etch primer that I assume I would have to sand off before using epoxy primer on finished car. Would like to seal maybe a quarter at a time when welding on that portion is complete.
I have the very same car waiting for a complete restoration and an engine swap and I was considering to use epoxy primer when I stumble upon this. I think I will give it a try as soon as I can spend some money on my project. Meanwhile, it will be good to know which process is better: spray or roll-on? Not just easy to apply but better in a long term.
As you can see in the opening shot on the finished door, your end results are KILLER with the roll-on method!
I have a question if any one would be kind enough to answer,,, it's always been my understanding that, you put down either epoxy or self etching primer followed by primer surfacer and THEN you block sand, (of coarse you block any body filler) . Why then are they blocking the epoxy primer when it's main purpose is to latch on to and seal the metal?
Also I might have missed it but do you remove guide coat from in the low spots before you add filler or more hi-fill?
Yes you do , I scuff guide coat out of lows with 180 grit using my finger
Hi Mark👍
I love how you left windows down and got all the sanding dust in there. Smart!
No overspray, but plenty of interior clean up!
Oh and if someone orders almost 300.00 worth of stuff from you...GIVE FREE SHIPPING! Tight asses!
Come on Eastwood, respond to all the replys, not just the kiss-up ones!!!! lol
@@194853DodgeTrucks We'll pass the FREE SHIPPING along!
@@eastwoodco I have spent tons of money on Eastwood and have always been treated right. Matt even tipped a hat to me on a truck forum when working on his PileHouse Truck. He sent some stuff my way too. My only point was, you need to reply to the "negative replys" of guys who've spent money on your stuff. :)
How strong are the fumes ? My garage is attached to my house and I’m afraid of the fumes going in
Do you have to go down to the metal to apply this primer?
LA camaro est toujours la plus belle,
J aime ce produit
Never thought of using a roller to apply primer. Gonna have to try this.
Mark did a great job - pair our specialty formulated OPTIFLOW primer with these unique rollers, you're good to go!
Can this be also be shoot with a spray gun too ? like an electric spray gun
Do you have to get the car to Bare Metal to put the epoxy primer on there or can you just stand it and still put the epoxy primer on her
I wish we had a Eastwood retailer in Southern Ontario.
I order everything from them online, out here in Arizona. They send it to me in a jiffy.
I order from ther website and have it shipped to toronto usually shows up in a couple days
I wish we had a them here in Saskatchewan
It says to order it off there website, so.......
Do you need to sand after the urethane primer?
😮 are you guys wizards or something
Quite possibly 😎
How long can I run a car in just the epoxy primer ?
Do you have to strip the paint down to metal?
Did the 5 quarts of urethane primer coat the whole car 4 times?
Can Optiflow be tinted like other eoxy primers?
eastwood please respond lol. what grit do i sand up to on the car before applying the epoxy? after the car is stripped to metal.. is it 120 -> 220 -> 320 then apply? just want to make sure i do this right, thank you
You can go a couple different ways but our preferred method is 80 grit, 180, 320 then apply primer.
Get everything flat and straight with 80 and then work out the sanding scratches with the 180 then 320.
Do you have a book on this that I could buy? Would not be able to remember all of this. I would like to try this on my IROC Camaro. Thanks
Can I use it over sanded paint?
Use white propane tank paint and a brush?
I have a 72 Fury, which had a vinyl roof. There is some pitting where I have removed vinyl, which i have rust treated. Should I fill in the pits before or after applying primer? Thanks
Epoxy can be laid on the entire car, then I'd do my body work with filler, and end in urethane.
Sadly if that showed up at my friend's shop, for paint, he'd say go to Maaco. Can't guarantee the paint job if he don't do the prep.
All the prep advice is well done though. Great info for the driveway guys.
So apply one coat of epoxy and the body work or 3 coats epoxy then body work.
🤗🙏Awesome🤩 thanks 😊 🙏 👍 👏✌❤☘
Best
nice
So you dont have to take t down to bare metal?
Hi I'm about to paint a reliant scimitar , grp . Fibreglass can I roller on primer, I've a chap will do the finishing coats but he doesn't want to prep undercoat recons too much work , I'm up for sanding painting primers but don't want the hassle off using a gun,
Also which type off primers can I roller on. Thanks for the clip very useful
Cheers
You can roll OptiFlow epoxy primer onto fiberglass. It sounds like you're going to need our complete epoxy kit. (very helpful to have all the supplies you'll need. Especially if this is your first time)
Check it out here:
www.eastwood.com/complete-optiflow-epoxy-primer-kit-with-sanding-materials.html