Great construction with some really imaginative and nice ideas…..👍 The notes on the desk are so realistic and the finish to the floor boards is excellent….love it.
He he he , that was such a fun build, I had put off watching the video for 6 days, because I thought that I would not like it. Well I was wrong! I liked it very much,... The blue light looks much better in the photos then it does in the video. Love the black & white photo....
I just love sprueVerse! Everytime you make a new model I watch several times through, and then decide "I need to build that!" So enjoyable & fun! Next for me is the Infinite Statue Laurel & Hardy Model T. Found one! Thank you so much.
I'm glad that you showed how you did the glassware, I was looking forward to that. I love how you did the books and googles. Nice touch of the putty on the coat for texture. 😍🤩👍
Send me your mailing address to sprueverse@gmail.com and I’ll send you the kit! I have extras - all you have to do is promise to build it and send me photos when you are finished! No hurry!! Just build it this year!! Cheers! Phil
I think you did a bang-up job-- that blue light says "eeeerie" to me! I like to how much extra effort you went to put us in the scene. I have had some very good results running .010" styrene sheet through my inkjet printer. Just needs a seal coat. And I open up the back to run it through flat which my HP was made for! My only observation is that I would have made the flooring edge-to-edge. Just my button-down mind. Your collaboration with the FigLab gang is very nice-- the results are clever and, I hope profitable. They deserve to be! Remember when Big Science could be done in your drawing room? Chemical spills-- hey, I'm very neat. Dangerous odors-- have you smelled last week's mutton? This stuff is fine. Besides-- 'smell it' I'm going to drink it! And a skull! Of course-- one needs a skull in an inconspicuous corner to gain admission to The Royal Academy. It's been a while since I read The Invisible Man-- was this potion the goal or just a happy (non-Rossian) accident? Well, only one way to find out what it does! Ahhh those were the days. These are pretty good days too-- we have some rather thrilling efforts to model with. Your glam shots showed it all-- and, a very nice backdrop!!!
A bold choice! And a unique execution! I think the lighting was a necessary highlight, Especially for those who may not know the reference straight away. I might have even pushed for a pulsing version to be even more overt! I was surprised to see the end result so clean and somehow unbelievable in appearance, but it does mesh well with the 'clean cut' aesthetic of its time. Still, I am left wondering what sort of textural effect was missed by not hitting the bandages with at least the minimum of a wash.
I've got one of those wonder cutters Phil and every time I go to use it it takes three goes to get through the average piece of sprue. It just keeps bleeping and stopping.
They are really finicky for sure. Several thoughts…if you change out the blade it’s a bitch to get the machine to cut nicely. There are instructions on how to recalibrate after a blade change. If you don’t you will have problems. Also, they are really only designed for resin supports or similar materials that are not thick! They suck at heavier and thicker materials. If it’s beeping and turning off it’s over heating because your blade isn’t seated correctly. Hope this was helpful.
Dear Phil-- normally I would not upbraid a chum in the open-- but I believe this is important enough so that everyone hears. You were using your miniaturists' table saw in a potentially hazardous way. Certainly if you would take that method to a real table saw, serious injury most likely would result. You used your hand to guide the wood-- and placed the short end between the blade and the rip fence. That was bad. So, you were using the table saw like a band saw-- band saws do not have a lot of stuff around the blade, usually. There's a tool that comes with a table saw, the miter gauge. It has an adjustable angle and slides in the slots in the table top. Of note is that it commonly slides at a right angle to the blade. You do not use the rip fence with it. When you had a small end between the blade and the rip fence, you might have managed to get the small piece of wood to go off angle-- and wedge itself between the blade and the rip fence. I don't know if your rig is AC or DC, but it is an electric motor and could cause trouble. It could flip the small piece of wood up. When introducing the wood to the blade (your way) the small end could wedge and cause the rest of the wood to shatter or stop the blade. This is a potential disaster on a full-sized table. Less so on this hobby sized one, but not "best practice." It gets much worse if doing this with any wide flat pieces of sheet wood. Use your miter gauge with no rip fence! I know-- you wanted to take off only so much-- so put a piece of tape down as a guide point.
HELP!!! I just bought a 1993 vintage - "The Joker" made by - Horizon Model company...... It is vinyl plastic which I have never built/painted before. I will do the warm water/soap wash, and will also use hotter water to cut the mold from the figure... what I don't know is... do I prime it with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 and then paint? I saw somewhere that vinyl is sort of picky when painted.... and also... what glue/cement do I use???? any feed back would greatly be appreciated! Model Onward!!!! :)
Go to your local automotive store and pick up adhesion promoter for plastics - then use a good primer I like dupicolor let that dry for several days - use light even coats must not be thick!! Then you can use acrylic paint on that surface!
Great video this one, so many tips and tricks to bring a different skew on the kit, rather than just out of the box. Did the rug ever make it onto the base?
Beautiful job, Phil. I admire all of your choices in upscaling the kit. There is a glaring mistake with it though........Claude Raines would be shorter than the model figure if placed next to him...HA,HA,Ha,ha,ha. Insert the laughter of Hugh Laurie as the Prince Regent from Black Adder the 3rd. I've done a few resin busts of WW2 subjects and they have unique challenges. Some are posted on my channel. I would like to do the JLabs3DStudio, 1925 Lon Chaney, Phantom of the Opera but the Dolman 1/6 Chennault bust may win out for the next figure project.
Beautiful build! Your enthusiasm for the hobby is infectious. This channel is food for the soul.
Great construction with some really imaginative and nice ideas…..👍
The notes on the desk are so realistic and the finish to the floor boards is excellent….love it.
He he he , that was such a fun build, I had put off watching the video for 6 days, because I thought that I would not like it. Well I was wrong! I liked it very much,... The blue light looks much better in the photos then it does in the video. Love the black & white photo....
I just love sprueVerse! Everytime you make a new model I watch several times through, and then decide "I need to build that!" So enjoyable & fun! Next for me is the Infinite Statue Laurel & Hardy Model T. Found one! Thank you so much.
I'm glad that you showed how you did the glassware, I was looking forward to that. I love how you did the books and googles. Nice touch of the putty on the coat for texture. 😍🤩👍
Great build of this iconic movie and novel! This was an excellent build to watch and enjoy! Two thumbs up!
Your videos are awesome! Such fantastic ideas, I really enjoy watching you build!
I wasn't aware of this kit until now but, I'm definitely going to get one thanks to your ideas on what to do with it. Thanks, Phil!
Send me your mailing address to sprueverse@gmail.com and I’ll send you the kit! I have extras - all you have to do is promise to build it and send me photos when you are finished! No hurry!! Just build it this year!! Cheers! Phil
been watching for the last hour & half.. just noticed the Thing '82 T-shirt..! new subscriber from the UK
I think you did a bang-up job-- that blue light says "eeeerie" to me! I like to how much extra effort you went to put us in the scene. I have had some very good results running .010" styrene sheet through my inkjet printer. Just needs a seal coat. And I open up the back to run it through flat which my HP was made for! My only observation is that I would have made the flooring edge-to-edge. Just my button-down mind.
Your collaboration with the FigLab gang is very nice-- the results are clever and, I hope profitable. They deserve to be!
Remember when Big Science could be done in your drawing room? Chemical spills-- hey, I'm very neat. Dangerous odors-- have you smelled last week's mutton? This stuff is fine. Besides-- 'smell it' I'm going to drink it! And a skull! Of course-- one needs a skull in an inconspicuous corner to gain admission to The Royal Academy. It's been a while since I read The Invisible Man-- was this potion the goal or just a happy (non-Rossian) accident? Well, only one way to find out what it does!
Ahhh those were the days.
These are pretty good days too-- we have some rather thrilling efforts to model with. Your glam shots showed it all-- and, a very nice backdrop!!!
Congratulations on another great work Phil, It's quite a "visible" work of art!! 😃
haha! agreed! "If you think I'm going to do this on camera ....... " Made me laugh. :)
Great job as always and I rather like the blue LED effect.
The Invisible kit of the year? Love your enthusiasm. I'm an original 'Lightwave' FX artist and would love to see a SeaQuest model build.
I did build the seaQuest last year on the channel - I will build up the other kits. Cheers!
Super impressive Phil.
A bold choice! And a unique execution!
I think the lighting was a necessary highlight, Especially for those who may not know the reference straight away. I might have even pushed for a pulsing version to be even more overt!
I was surprised to see the end result so clean and somehow unbelievable in appearance, but it does mesh well with the 'clean cut' aesthetic of its time. Still, I am left wondering what sort of textural effect was missed by not hitting the bandages with at least the minimum of a wash.
The one clear jar with the different colored beads, looks like the making of a DNA strand.
Can't wait...let's get started building something. 😊
you know, somehow I just can't see you building this. I had an invisible man kit, but i put it down and now i can't find it
It’s Invisible that’s why you can’t find it!!
I've got one of those wonder cutters Phil and every time I go to use it it takes three goes to get through the average piece of sprue. It just keeps bleeping and stopping.
They are really finicky for sure. Several thoughts…if you change out the blade it’s a bitch to get the machine to cut nicely. There are instructions on how to recalibrate after a blade change. If you don’t you will have problems. Also, they are really only designed for resin supports or similar materials that are not thick! They suck at heavier and thicker materials. If it’s beeping and turning off it’s over heating because your blade isn’t seated correctly. Hope this was helpful.
Dear Phil-- normally I would not upbraid a chum in the open-- but I believe this is important enough so that everyone hears. You were using your miniaturists' table saw in a potentially hazardous way. Certainly if you would take that method to a real table saw, serious injury most likely would result. You used your hand to guide the wood-- and placed the short end between the blade and the rip fence. That was bad. So, you were using the table saw like a band saw-- band saws do not have a lot of stuff around the blade, usually. There's a tool that comes with a table saw, the miter gauge. It has an adjustable angle and slides in the slots in the table top. Of note is that it commonly slides at a right angle to the blade. You do not use the rip fence with it.
When you had a small end between the blade and the rip fence, you might have managed to get the small piece of wood to go off angle-- and wedge itself between the blade and the rip fence. I don't know if your rig is AC or DC, but it is an electric motor and could cause trouble. It could flip the small piece of wood up. When introducing the wood to the blade (your way) the small end could wedge and cause the rest of the wood to shatter or stop the blade. This is a potential disaster on a full-sized table. Less so on this hobby sized one, but not "best practice." It gets much worse if doing this with any wide flat pieces of sheet wood.
Use your miter gauge with no rip fence! I know-- you wanted to take off only so much-- so put a piece of tape down as a guide point.
Point well taken…shop safety is imperative - I will be sure to emphasize that going forward.
Popsicle Floor: Jason Jenson does a thing to his wood exterior parts. He wire brushes them to give the wood grain. Maybe that would work here?
HELP!!! I just bought a 1993 vintage - "The Joker" made by - Horizon Model company...... It is vinyl plastic which I have never built/painted before. I will do the warm water/soap wash, and will also use hotter water to cut the mold from the figure... what I don't know is... do I prime it with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 and then paint? I saw somewhere that vinyl is sort of picky when painted.... and also... what glue/cement do I use????
any feed back would greatly be appreciated! Model Onward!!!! :)
Go to your local automotive store and pick up adhesion promoter for plastics - then use a good primer I like dupicolor let that dry for several days - use light even coats must not be thick!! Then you can use acrylic paint on that surface!
Looks cool.
I have this kit in my stash, but where is your accent from ?
I'm originally from the UK, Southend-on-Sea in Essex - left when I was 10 - grew up State side in San Diego, CA.
Great video this one, so many tips and tricks to bring a different skew on the kit, rather than just out of the box.
Did the rug ever make it onto the base?
It did - can you believe it took four months to arrive!
@@sprueVerse you could've learned to crochet or knit one in that time frame 😆
How can you find the parts if it is invisible? LOL
Beautiful job, Phil. I admire all of your choices in upscaling the kit. There is a glaring mistake with it though........Claude Raines would be shorter than the model figure if placed next to him...HA,HA,Ha,ha,ha. Insert the laughter of Hugh Laurie as the Prince Regent from Black Adder the 3rd. I've done a few resin busts of WW2 subjects and they have unique challenges. Some are posted on my channel. I would like to do the JLabs3DStudio, 1925 Lon Chaney, Phantom of the Opera but the Dolman 1/6 Chennault bust may win out for the next figure project.
Got your email! Thanks!!!! :) (re: The Joker Horizon Model).....
Very nice work sir🎩🎩
Curiosity kills the cat ! Where is your accent from??
I’m from the UK originally.
1 hour 5 mins, i can hear a dog in the background, is that your dog?
Her name is Penny Rose - she is a rescue Hound dog.
Bet there's alot of clear parts 😂😂