Great article on how to add realism to a WW1 figure bust. BUT, it is my observation that the face and leather helmet strap could do with some grime and sweat. Cheers Eh!
Wow. That looks really good. I too use Vallejo, but I've been having really serious issues with the primer not adhering to the surface. Have you experienced this problem? Would you have any suggestions? And yes I always clean the parts before even removing them from the tree. I wipe them down with isopropyl (90%) after smoothing & sanding seams and/or defects, as well as just a general scuffing the surface prior to priming. Also I always wear gloves, because I have naturally really oily skin and always take great care to wait until I have both gloves on to adjust them as to not transfer oils to the gloves. I really hate to have to switch to enamel because truthfully I just really can't afford to right now. I'd have to buy or make a spray booth also. And as a disabled veteran without benefits and haven't been able to work for the past two+ years and my business isn't selling really anything yet, well one figure so far & that was just a D&D Elf, and that went to other essentials. I'm starting a project soon that will hopefully bring in some money but I have to work with what I have right now. I do have some enamel paints that are still good a thought about using them as a primer, but to be honest it's been quite a while since I've even touched enamels, I'm just a bit nervous. Any suggestions would be great, if you have the time. Thanks. Great video by the way. I always enjoy seeing your work. Your tips have come in handy.
That is strange, you are doing all the right things. Suggest making sure the primer is really, really thoroughly shaken up and that when you look in the bottle (remove the dropper) that the primer looks smooth and blended. Spray in smooth thin coats and then set it aside to dry. The primer is fragile but the longer you leave it the tougher it gets. No need to go to enamels, they work but need to harden, fully. The smoother the plastic, the greater the risk of it ripping and peel when sanded.
If the airbrush has a mac valve (pressure valve) on it this is easier, but basically you knock the pressure right down, like to virtually nothing and the paint will splatter or stipple. Adjusting the pressure ever so slightly will change the size of stipples. If no mac valve, you have to try to use the compressor's pressure regulator, which is less precise.
Like what you have promoted here but the face needs some sweat to contrast with the uniform and equipment. So many products and techniques and the flesh is just matte and at this scale I think it needs to be more lifelike. IMHO. Cheers !
The water splatter is harder but you can do stippling for say the mud with something like a toothbrush laden with the paint/product (but not too much). Rub your finger backwards along the bristles so they are under tension and then released, they'll flick forward as your finger moves back, releasing paint. Not as controlled as airbrush stippling but if you don't have an airbrush, that's your main option.
Gentlemen, this is fascinating !!! The result is really magnificent ! Thumbs up !
One of the best figures painting I've seen , awesome!
Amazing work, i´m loving, very realistc effects, congratulations.
A masterpiece, great techniques guide.
Thank you very much.
Stunning!
Great article on how to add realism to a WW1 figure bust. BUT, it is my observation that the face and leather helmet strap could do with some grime and sweat. Cheers Eh!
Wow! A most impressive result indeed. This video gives inspiration to experiment and try new techniques. :-)
Thanks for the comment.
amazing!
Brilliant !!
really nice 👍👍
Awesome
That crazy so real looking thank you you have just made it better for me to practice thank you
Wow. That looks really good. I too use Vallejo, but I've been having really serious issues with the primer not adhering to the surface. Have you experienced this problem? Would you have any suggestions? And yes I always clean the parts before even removing them from the tree. I wipe them down with isopropyl (90%) after smoothing & sanding seams and/or defects, as well as just a general scuffing the surface prior to priming. Also I always wear gloves, because I have naturally really oily skin and always take great care to wait until I have both gloves on to adjust them as to not transfer oils to the gloves. I really hate to have to switch to enamel because truthfully I just really can't afford to right now. I'd have to buy or make a spray booth also. And as a disabled veteran without benefits and haven't been able to work for the past two+ years and my business isn't selling really anything yet, well one figure so far & that was just a D&D Elf, and that went to other essentials. I'm starting a project soon that will hopefully bring in some money but I have to work with what I have right now.
I do have some enamel paints that are still good a thought about using them as a primer, but to be honest it's been quite a while since I've even touched enamels, I'm just a bit nervous. Any suggestions would be great, if you have the time. Thanks.
Great video by the way. I always enjoy seeing your work. Your tips have come in handy.
That is strange, you are doing all the right things. Suggest making sure the primer is really, really thoroughly shaken up and that when you look in the bottle (remove the dropper) that the primer looks smooth and blended. Spray in smooth thin coats and then set it aside to dry. The primer is fragile but the longer you leave it the tougher it gets. No need to go to enamels, they work but need to harden, fully. The smoother the plastic, the greater the risk of it ripping and peel when sanded.
When you stipple, what exactly are you doing with the airbrush to get that effect? Thanks.
If the airbrush has a mac valve (pressure valve) on it this is easier, but basically you knock the pressure right down, like to virtually nothing and the paint will splatter or stipple. Adjusting the pressure ever so slightly will change the size of stipples. If no mac valve, you have to try to use the compressor's pressure regulator, which is less precise.
Like what you have promoted here but the face needs some sweat to contrast with the uniform and equipment. So many products and techniques and the flesh is just matte and at this scale I think it needs to be more lifelike. IMHO. Cheers !
good tutorial, as usual!)+
Is that first figure based on Damian Lewis in Band of Brothers? Coz it sure looks like it.
Yes it's a fantastic Nuts Planet product. See our video reviews to check it out.
Nice Super Cool 👍
What model or brand airbrush was used?
Mostly Iwata HP-CH with on board MAC valve (pressure control) - ideal for stippling.
AMAZING TUTORIAL !! and By The Way 18 People dislike this? They have no life i guess ... !!
What if I DON'T have an airbrush?
The water splatter is harder but you can do stippling for say the mud with something like a toothbrush laden with the paint/product (but not too much). Rub your finger backwards along the bristles so they are under tension and then released, they'll flick forward as your finger moves back, releasing paint. Not as controlled as airbrush stippling but if you don't have an airbrush, that's your main option.
I can't ever paint a figure like that.
absolutely top draw figure modelling!
Thanks we appreciate the comment.
NNNice!!!
Man that guy looks pissed....lol
Awesome