The first thing I changed was the exact same. Way better! My suggestion is if you don't want to buy them print them out of EasyNylon! That's why I bought the SV06, is to print high temp filament.
Nylon would definitely be a good material to use for linear bearings. Igus also sells some filaments specifically for this type of situation. I just did an unboxing/repair video of a new printer from factory. I don't even think they packed their bearings when it left the factory. At this point after dealing with three SV06 printers, all with bad bearings, my thought is just replace the bearings on these printers first thing.
Hi there ,in answer to one of your ideas was to put the Drylin bushes on the extruder rods .I did just that and found when you tightend them the motorholder gantry would not move , and due to the 6 screws at the back theres no room for ajustment !I tried to pack them out all to no avail ! So I will put them on the bed and see how it goes !! PS just replaced the bed steel rollers with Drylin bushes , I had to put masking tape strips under each side of all 4 bearing holders, as they where binding and then !!! Silence ! Thank you again !
Ordered an SV06 and doing a little research in prep, and you are the 2nd to say their bearings are crap. I've heard in the past that the Drylin bearings work great but wear out quickly. For the ball type LM8UUs, I've had good luck with Fushi bearings on my Anycubic i3 Mega. Not the cheapest you can find but relatively inexpensive and not junk. I've experimented with some vase-mode printed PETG bearings on the Z of a my Ai3M, made them extra tall to reduce tilt, lubed them with SuperLube, and they worked quite well. I've read that PETG has the same coefficient of friction as POM.
The drylin bearings may wear out faster, in about 4 months I'll pull them and take some inside measurements with a micrometer. The stock bearings were definitely not packed well on my printer. My friend bought an SV06 and his bearings were worse. If my bearing hadnt of fell apart during the repacking I probably never would of tried Igus Drylin bearings. The stock bearings seem much more quiet since I repacked them. They should be fine.
@@room281tech8 Yep, got my printer yesterday and, wow crunchy bearings. After your mention of breaking one, I didn't risk pushing the ones out of the Z carriages and just cleaned and lubed them in-place. Better but some are still kinda rough. Maybe they will wear-in a bit.
@@kevinfluet5977 I had to keep reapplying very light coats of white lithium grease to the guide rods and work it in until I got what I felt was l reasonable performance. The z-axis are much easier to pack. I think it is in my z axis bearing mod video. The x-axis are much harder to get to. Even when I lifted the x axis out it seemed the guide rods were really snug in the z carriages. I opted to find a less intrusive method of lubricating the x axis bearings avoid breaking something.
@@room281tech8 Whatever works! My SV-06's X was relatively easy to disassemble. Rods were snug but I twisted back and forth a *tiny* bit to break the friction while pulling and they came out. I cleaned all the bearings with IPA but they didn't really need it so you're probably fine just sneaking lube in under the wipers.
Thank you. I'm working on some new videos right now where we go in depth on how to fix a lot of the issues that are leaving the factory. My video editor has been really busy this week so hopeful I'll have several new videos up by this weekend
Same issue I am having with my SV06. Bearings sound like gravel. I lubed and it helped but its still bad. Very annoying to listen to. I talked to someone that used the dry bearings and said the bed was too hot for them and the got deformed. Worked great in the other spots though. Might go ahead and give them a shot since they are not to expensive.
That's why I chose the Igus bearings over printing my own with standard materials such as PLA+ or PETG. They never would have withstood the prolonged high temps. Do a quick Google search for Igus Filaments and check out what they use. Some of them have to be tempered and cured to get the best results.
i changed to igus drylin but sadly, theyre only rated for 60c and the rods of the bed get to that temp when the bed is about 80c. so i would get very screechy sounding bearings, almost like theyre squeeking. so im changing to misumi's soon. still using the igus on my X axis and they sound great
Strange, I've ran my bed at 80C for hours at a time and haven't had issues. Igus makes a lot of different bearings with varying material. I specifically use these, RJ4JP LM8UU.
My buddy replaced all his bearings with the igus drylin bearings and he loves it. He said it is so quiet now. He had a bit of an extreme issue with his bearings though. They were basically falling apart which would have eventually damaged his guide rod. Let me know what bearings you decided on and if you like them.
Nice write up. I cleaned mine in IA with US, the used the prusa tip on a small gun to pack them with the common synth grease, I found with the prusa they take about 5grams to fill. That made em worse.......... I didn't reclean and scope em, dunno if the balls are flat spotted, races pitted, dunno, don't care. Right in the bin with the lot. Took my second SV06 apart out of the box and replaced every bearing prior to use. first point, it takes 10 bearings, the gantry has 2 per side. second point, I found alot of variance with the IGUS delrin bearings, but the are pretty cheep. get a half dozen packs, sort thru to get 10 snug ones... my second machine has a single quality double length linear on each side of the gantry, the first a pair of IGUS. Both have IGUS on the X & Y. only noise I get now is the bizarre double CLACK on X travel moves, if I try to exceed 275~300. I think, its a belt tooth catching the extruder's tunnel edge
Your experience parallels mine. I'm finishing up my box opening video of a brand new SV06. My thoughts going into it were, "I'll just repack the bearings". However the further I got into it and the more repairs I was making to a brand new printer, I just opted to replace all 10 with Igus bearings. The stock bearings were completely dry. My attempt to repack the bearings on my other SV06 didn't go well either. During the repacking process the balls started falling out. I didn't realize it until I inspected the linear rods and found a few sitting on the desk beneath the build plate. The retaining plate/ring was falling out of 2 of the 3 bearings on the y-axis. At that point I stopped using that printer until my Igus arrived.X and Z axis were about the same. I've been happy with the Igus bearings so far. They're easy on the pocket book and they offer great performance. I looked into mitsumi bearings but didn't want to pay $15 for each bearing. I have several thousand hours on one of the printers and its still going strong. I'll probably pull a couple of the bearings in a few months and measure the wear and share my results with everyone.
I get that clack sound now and then. On one of the printers I tightened the belt on x-axis. That seemed to mitigate it to a certain degree. Let me know if you narrow it down.
@@room281tech8 I was just going to try packing the stock bearings with grease when I get my SV06, I'm finding that some have inconsistent layers with these bearings, so I'm not sure
I replaced all the bearings on my SV06 with those from igus, but I felt the force needed to move the axles was much greater. And this happens only when I finish tightening the screws. Have you experienced this with your printer? Would you make it softer to move and perhaps a little loose or difficult to move and very firm?
I had a very different experience on both my SV06 printers. I just tightened it down like normal and it worked. Perhaps if you have a caliper you can take measurements of your OD of your stock bearings and compare that to the igus bearings. Something doesn't sound right because I know a few people that run those bearings without issue.
So I have two of these printers one of them has bad bearings. The other printer has so many issues I'm still repairing it. On that printer I didn't even bother checking the bearings. I just replaced them. My friend also has this printer. He repacked his bearings and the seals became loose and balls fell out of the race. I'm doing video on a complete inspection and tear down of this printer and every issue we have encounter and how we fixed it. The printer we're working on is brand new, just pulled it from the box. I feel like a lot of the stuff that is leaving their factory had little to no quality control. However most if the issues are easy to fix.
My sv06 plus seems to have decent bearings, i did lubricate them too before my first print. But def wanna give something like this a chance if they do go.
I installed the Drylin bearings on my SV06 Plus' bed, and at first they were nice and tight and smooth, but after about 100 hours of printing, they are loose as a goose. The bed has a full millimeter wobble around the z-axis. I did, however, load them up with lithium grease when I installed them, thinking the self-lubricating claim was possibly marketing horsepoop, so maybe the grease softened them and caused extreme early breakdown?
I didn't use any grease. I've done a full bearing replacement on two of these printers with fantastic results. I have no wobble on the z-axis. If there is wear, you may want to inspect the linear rods for damage that may be causing premature bearing wear.
@@room281tech8The linear rods appear to be perfectly smooth. I ended up packing the stock bearings with lithium grease and re-installing them. As you noted, the grease helps with noise, but more importantly for me, the bed has no 'slack' around the Z axis anymore.
@@room281tech8I just read somewhere else in here that the Drylin bearings soften at about 60C, and the bed rods get to that temp when the bed is 80C. Since I print a lot of ABS, I run my bed at 90C, so maybe that's what killed my Drylin bearings so fast...
@@imacmill I haven't had any issue with that whatsoever. Keep in mind igus makes a lot of different materials. The premade igus bearings that I purchased from amazon are top notch. I do prints runs that go for entire weeks ...almost non-stop printing. Bed temps range around 80c for hours at a time... No issues. Eventually I will do a linear track rail mod with carriages
@@room281tech8 For some reason my reply to you got censored, perhaps because it mentioned the name of a certain Chinese online retailer whose name starts with Mohammed Ali's last name. So... Are you able to post a link to the bearings you bought, not just the name of them?
That really wasn't an issue on my SV06. Now my buddy had that issue with his SV06 in addition to his bearings being crunchy. What happened is that the screw that holds the gear to the motor came loose and the layer shifts became worse and worse. I also had an issue with the gear that sits on planetary gear shaft that feeds the filament coming lose and stopped feeding. Somebody at the factory is not tightening things down.
@@room281tech8 Guess I'll be torque checking EVERYTHING when I replace the bearings. I really cannot complain about performance for the price point, but, I mean.. ungreased bearings and non-tightened fasteners is kind of a goofy marketing ploy.
@@publicacultus I definitely would. My printer one day just stopped feeding. After I disassembled the extruder, lubed and tightened the gears, I was actually able to print my filament at lower temps. Basically I had to overheat my filament to get it feed, but didn't know it until I fixed the issue.
Thanks so much for the video!! Would you mind sharing the part number/model or brand name of these grey bearings? I can seem to spell their name to search for them.. thanks so much once again.
i made my bearings from petg and ofcuts of ptfe tubing sliced in 4 so there is 6 inserts made from the tubing in each bearing block slided in under slight interference and wear in in place untill they move smoothly and they are all pink :|]
Curious how the bearings are holding up since it’s been around 5 months since you put them in. I recently purchased a SV06 and am looking at this option. Thanks for the great videos.
I found theese exact igus bushing are way too lose for the bed bushings, specially on the side where there is only 1 busing. Replaced all, except the bed to theese bushings, but for the bed, its just not tight fit enough. Luckily found 3 acceptable, from the original bearing, after cleaning and packing they works acceptable.
I wasn't really happy with any of the bearings. The igus have been great so far, no complaints. They are slightly loose but nothing worse than the stock bearings it came with.
I agree. Igus makes a bunch of filaments that seem to be geared for this kind of thing. However I think nylon filament is cheaper, easier to get, and probably just as good.
@@room281tech8 Straight Nylon works, I have used it, but the Igus filament is far more slippery, its self lubricating, its definitely better, the nylon bearings I have made, can bind and require a silicone, or PTFE synthetic lubricant to operate efficiently, Igus bearings don't.
@@NexGen-3D That is interesting about the nylon binding and needing lubrication. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. I should probably just pick up a spool from igus to keep on hand for special projects.
My solution to the SV06 noisy bearings was to return it before even opening box. I have seen enough similar complaints to yours that it dissuaded me from even messing with it. I have 8 Ender 3 S1 Pros with Sonic Pads and they have performed fairly trouble free. My next step up will probably be a Bambu printer which the P1P is only $400 more than the Sv06 and several times faster. I also have 4 Elegoo Neptune 3 Pros and they are an awesome printer for $250. delivered. I won’t waste my time on the SV06 even if it does look like a Prusa.
The bearings were an easy fix. However, it seems like there have been much worse issues with their products leaving the factory. My main reason for this printer was being able to hit the high temps for the more "exotic" filaments lol. Mine has worked well so far. I haven't experienced an issue so extreme that couldn't be easily fixed. Personally, given the slow shipping speeds from Sovol and their hit and miss quality control, I don't think I would buy another.
Exactly what I decided after watching this video. No way in hell I'm putting up with this crap. These days there are simply too many good options to settle for a headache.
@@baxrok2. They're not horrible. I would by one of these over an Ender. The print quality is pretty good. My main issues that I have had were the bearings on both the SV06 printers I have and the z axis motor supports that connect to the gantry. Only one printer had the gantry issue. Other than that no issues. What I'm seeing is quality control with multiple manufacturers is lacking across the board. Post what you finally decide on.
@@room281tech8 I'm going to save my money and go with one of the newer mid range printers like the budget Bambu, K1, Voron, or other new printers coming out. I've been using cheapo printers for three years now and I'm ready to start enjoying the newest generation of tech and speed. With that should come fewer, but not all of course, worries about things like cheap bearings, etc. Thanks!
@@baxrok2. I have a ratrig core xy with a 500mm build plate. They come with several build plate sizes. Maybe look into those if you want to have something unique and extremely fast. I went with the ratrig because I wanted to be able to print materials like PEKK and PEEK. I went with the Sovol sv06 because it could reach temps up to 300C which allowed me to work with materials like CF nylons and other hybrid filaments. I don't think the voron will hit those crazy high temps like the ratrig but it is a quality machine and definitely worth it.
It's nuts that Sovol uses the cheapest possible bearings for the SV06 motion control. The Drylin bearings can't be much more expensive. If they could be sourced in China, they should be less expensive than ball bearings. This is a common SV06 problem. Nobody should need to replace the bearings on a new printer, but it's better to replace bad bearings before they score the linear rods.
Sovol does seem to use low quality parts, but I do like the design. It seems like I am replacing a lot of stuff on these printers. I actually have two of these printers. I have a box opening video of brand new printer I recorded several months ago that I really need to get uploaded. I had to replace a good amount of parts. Right now Im having issues with the pei beds. Im constantly having to sand them with 2000grit and then clean with acetone about once a month now. Rubbing alcohol used to work just find, now not so much. Either way, just another part to replace.
@@room281tech8 - I have an SV01 (not even the Pro version) that has been a workhorse printer for over two years. I replaced a hot end heater soon after getting the printer. That was cheap and easy to do. Otherwise, all I've done is clear three clogged nozzles but none of those were the printer's fault. Despite the low cost parts, the SV01 has been very reliable. I do like Sovol's approach with a regular and Pro version with upgrades, but they should use high quality upgrades. I'm not sure cheap rods and bearings are an upgrade over acetyl rollers which are smooth and long lasting. I've had very trouble with the rollers on the SV01. I haven't even needed to adjust them.
This seamed cheaper than the $15 per bearing alternative from Misumi. I bought some bearings off eBay and they were worse than what came on the printer. So far these igus are working quite well.
I have had a lot of luck using varioshore TPU bearings (0.6 flow, 20mm/sec, 213c, 99% infill, 0.3mm layer). It is for a different application (25mm pipe) but I may try them in the new SV06 plus I use at work. Here's a vid. ua-cam.com/video/eYeL5n3W4Y8/v-deo.htmlsi=3WZqtCkunGgLzYDK
It can be done and Igus has the filament to pull it off. After pulling measurements off the igus bearings, Im not seeing anything to extreme in regards of tolerances. Would I print a metal style linear bearing with balls, no.
I just noticed you're moving the bed around with your machine powered off. I noticed it generates a ton of electricity, and it's not good for your machine. I have a pi plugged in with an endoscope plugged into that, if I move the bed even slightly, the endoscope flashes. It's a lot of power being generated by even a small nudge. Careful.
Given some of the "quality" I've seen, you aren't wrong. If it's built right, then this shouldn't be an issue. I would be concerned if it is generating more electricity than the design allows and exceeding tolerances. I have heard of people frying their sovol mainboards by exactly what you mentioned. What kind of numbers are you pulling? Now you got me curious. I've heard some horror stories about the electrical on these SV06 printers.
@@room281tech8 I'm not actually sure, but the flashing endoscope light happens even when the bed is just moved even slightly. Sometimes the movement isn't even perceivable, but I'll still get that flash. It doesn't say the voltage or anything on the endoscope page (aliexpress). It's just surprisingly easy to generate current.
I love the crunch sound. Reminds me of my knees and back.
Ouch
Says the old skateboarder... :)
hahahahahaha
The first thing I changed was the exact same. Way better!
My suggestion is if you don't want to buy them print them out of EasyNylon!
That's why I bought the SV06, is to print high temp filament.
Nylon would definitely be a good material to use for linear bearings. Igus also sells some filaments specifically for this type of situation.
I just did an unboxing/repair video of a new printer from factory. I don't even think they packed their bearings when it left the factory. At this point after dealing with three SV06 printers, all with bad bearings, my thought is just replace the bearings on these printers first thing.
Hi there ,in answer to one of your ideas was to put the Drylin bushes on the extruder rods .I did just that and found when you tightend them the motorholder gantry would not move , and due to the 6 screws at the back theres no room for ajustment !I tried to pack them out all to no avail ! So I will put them on the bed and see how it goes !! PS just replaced the bed steel rollers with Drylin bushes , I had to put masking tape strips under each side of all 4 bearing holders, as they where binding and then !!! Silence ! Thank you again !
Thanks for posting this. I can see why they changed their design on the SVO7.
Yeah I do like the way the bed plate is set up on there
Ordered an SV06 and doing a little research in prep, and you are the 2nd to say their bearings are crap. I've heard in the past that the Drylin bearings work great but wear out quickly. For the ball type LM8UUs, I've had good luck with Fushi bearings on my Anycubic i3 Mega. Not the cheapest you can find but relatively inexpensive and not junk.
I've experimented with some vase-mode printed PETG bearings on the Z of a my Ai3M, made them extra tall to reduce tilt, lubed them with SuperLube, and they worked quite well. I've read that PETG has the same coefficient of friction as POM.
The drylin bearings may wear out faster, in about 4 months I'll pull them and take some inside measurements with a micrometer.
The stock bearings were definitely not packed well on my printer. My friend bought an SV06 and his bearings were worse. If my bearing hadnt of fell apart during the repacking I probably never would of tried Igus Drylin bearings. The stock bearings seem much more quiet since I repacked them. They should be fine.
@@room281tech8 Yep, got my printer yesterday and, wow crunchy bearings. After your mention of breaking one, I didn't risk pushing the ones out of the Z carriages and just cleaned and lubed them in-place. Better but some are still kinda rough. Maybe they will wear-in a bit.
@@kevinfluet5977 I had to keep reapplying very light coats of white lithium grease to the guide rods and work it in until I got what I felt was l reasonable performance. The z-axis are much easier to pack. I think it is in my z axis bearing mod video. The x-axis are much harder to get to. Even when I lifted the x axis out it seemed the guide rods were really snug in the z carriages. I opted to find a less intrusive method of lubricating the x axis bearings avoid breaking something.
@@room281tech8 Whatever works! My SV-06's X was relatively easy to disassemble. Rods were snug but I twisted back and forth a *tiny* bit to break the friction while pulling and they came out. I cleaned all the bearings with IPA but they didn't really need it so you're probably fine just sneaking lube in under the wipers.
@@kevinfluet5977 Good to know. Maybe I'll be a little more forceful with them next time.
I appreciate you for putting out these videos. They've been really helpful when working with my SV06
Thank you. I'm working on some new videos right now where we go in depth on how to fix a lot of the issues that are leaving the factory. My video editor has been really busy this week so hopeful I'll have several new videos up by this weekend
@Room 281 Tech Fantastic. I look forward to what's to come
Keep these SV06 videos coming. Great info. I just subbed.
Thank you very much for the kind words
I ended up printing bushings for my CTC I3 Pro B clone out of ABS. They worked great.
That's awesome to hear. I need to pick up some ABS. It's a very handy material.
Same issue I am having with my SV06. Bearings sound like gravel. I lubed and it helped but its still bad. Very annoying to listen to. I talked to someone that used the dry bearings and said the bed was too hot for them and the got deformed. Worked great in the other spots though. Might go ahead and give them a shot since they are not to expensive.
They used the genuine polymer bushings from Igus? I find it very hard to believe that the bed was too hot for them.
That's why I chose the Igus bearings over printing my own with standard materials such as PLA+ or PETG. They never would have withstood the prolonged high temps. Do a quick Google search for Igus Filaments and check out what they use. Some of them have to be tempered and cured to get the best results.
i changed to igus drylin but sadly, theyre only rated for 60c and the rods of the bed get to that temp when the bed is about 80c. so i would get very screechy sounding bearings, almost like theyre squeeking. so im changing to misumi's soon. still using the igus on my X axis and they sound great
Strange, I've ran my bed at 80C for hours at a time and haven't had issues. Igus makes a lot of different bearings with varying material. I specifically use these, RJ4JP LM8UU.
Thx for the info. Just received mine, will see how they sound and feel soon. May replace them as you suggested. Cheers
cool video thanks for sharing, the bearings were so dirty with stock svo6. I will most likely replace them with your suggestion!!
My buddy replaced all his bearings with the igus drylin bearings and he loves it. He said it is so quiet now. He had a bit of an extreme issue with his bearings though. They were basically falling apart which would have eventually damaged his guide rod. Let me know what bearings you decided on and if you like them.
Nice write up. I cleaned mine in IA with US, the used the prusa tip on a small gun to pack them with the common synth grease, I found with the prusa they take about 5grams to fill. That made em worse.......... I didn't reclean and scope em, dunno if the balls are flat spotted, races pitted, dunno, don't care. Right in the bin with the lot. Took my second SV06 apart out of the box and replaced every bearing prior to use.
first point, it takes 10 bearings, the gantry has 2 per side.
second point, I found alot of variance with the IGUS delrin bearings, but the are pretty cheep. get a half dozen packs, sort thru to get 10 snug ones...
my second machine has a single quality double length linear on each side of the gantry, the first a pair of IGUS. Both have IGUS on the X & Y.
only noise I get now is the bizarre double CLACK on X travel moves, if I try to exceed 275~300. I think, its a belt tooth catching the extruder's tunnel edge
Your experience parallels mine. I'm finishing up my box opening video of a brand new SV06. My thoughts going into it were, "I'll just repack the bearings". However the further I got into it and the more repairs I was making to a brand new printer, I just opted to replace all 10 with Igus bearings. The stock bearings were completely dry.
My attempt to repack the bearings on my other SV06 didn't go well either. During the repacking process the balls started falling out. I didn't realize it until I inspected the linear rods and found a few sitting on the desk beneath the build plate. The retaining plate/ring was falling out of 2 of the 3 bearings on the y-axis. At that point I stopped using that printer until my Igus arrived.X and Z axis were about the same.
I've been happy with the Igus bearings so far. They're easy on the pocket book and they offer great performance. I looked into mitsumi bearings but didn't want to pay $15 for each bearing. I have several thousand hours on one of the printers and its still going strong.
I'll probably pull a couple of the bearings in a few months and measure the wear and share my results with everyone.
I get that clack sound now and then. On one of the printers I tightened the belt on x-axis. That seemed to mitigate it to a certain degree. Let me know if you narrow it down.
I'm about the buy this printer, should I buy upgraded bearings right off the bat?
I have two of these printers and changed out the bearings on both printers.
@@room281tech8 Right away? Gotcha, which ones did you end up buying?
@@adams1625 I just made a note in the description of which bearings I used. You can find them on Amazon for fairly cheap.
@@room281tech8 Oh right, gotcha! Did they impact print quality? Better or worse?
@@room281tech8 I was just going to try packing the stock bearings with grease when I get my SV06, I'm finding that some have inconsistent layers with these bearings, so I'm not sure
I replaced all the bearings on my SV06 with those from igus, but I felt the force needed to move the axles was much greater. And this happens only when I finish tightening the screws. Have you experienced this with your printer? Would you make it softer to move and perhaps a little loose or difficult to move and very firm?
I had a very different experience on both my SV06 printers. I just tightened it down like normal and it worked. Perhaps if you have a caliper you can take measurements of your OD of your stock bearings and compare that to the igus bearings. Something doesn't sound right because I know a few people that run those bearings without issue.
I bought the Sovol SV06 Plus, I wonder if its got the same bearing issues. It ships in April.
So I have two of these printers one of them has bad bearings. The other printer has so many issues I'm still repairing it. On that printer I didn't even bother checking the bearings. I just replaced them.
My friend also has this printer. He repacked his bearings and the seals became loose and balls fell out of the race.
I'm doing video on a complete inspection and tear down of this printer and every issue we have encounter and how we fixed it. The printer we're working on is brand new, just pulled it from the box. I feel like a lot of the stuff that is leaving their factory had little to no quality control. However most if the issues are easy to fix.
My sv06 plus seems to have decent bearings, i did lubricate them too before my first print. But def wanna give something like this a chance if they do go.
I don't have a plus model so I can't speak much to their bearings. Maybe they fixed the issue with those.
So these are just polymer bushings with no moving parts? I might try to print some in PETG to compare.
Let me know how the printed bearings work for you.
I installed the Drylin bearings on my SV06 Plus' bed, and at first they were nice and tight and smooth, but after about 100 hours of printing, they are loose as a goose. The bed has a full millimeter wobble around the z-axis.
I did, however, load them up with lithium grease when I installed them, thinking the self-lubricating claim was possibly marketing horsepoop, so maybe the grease softened them and caused extreme early breakdown?
I didn't use any grease. I've done a full bearing replacement on two of these printers with fantastic results. I have no wobble on the z-axis. If there is wear, you may want to inspect the linear rods for damage that may be causing premature bearing wear.
@@room281tech8The linear rods appear to be perfectly smooth.
I ended up packing the stock bearings with lithium grease and re-installing them. As you noted, the grease helps with noise, but more importantly for me, the bed has no 'slack' around the Z axis anymore.
@@room281tech8I just read somewhere else in here that the Drylin bearings soften at about 60C, and the bed rods get to that temp when the bed is 80C. Since I print a lot of ABS, I run my bed at 90C, so maybe that's what killed my Drylin bearings so fast...
@@imacmill I haven't had any issue with that whatsoever. Keep in mind igus makes a lot of different materials. The premade igus bearings that I purchased from amazon are top notch. I do prints runs that go for entire weeks ...almost non-stop printing. Bed temps range around 80c for hours at a time... No issues. Eventually I will do a linear track rail mod with carriages
@@room281tech8 For some reason my reply to you got censored, perhaps because it mentioned the name of a certain Chinese online retailer whose name starts with Mohammed Ali's last name. So...
Are you able to post a link to the bearings you bought, not just the name of them?
I'm curious to know if the layer shift (minor, but seeming endemic to these printers) got any better with the new bearings?
That really wasn't an issue on my SV06. Now my buddy had that issue with his SV06 in addition to his bearings being crunchy. What happened is that the screw that holds the gear to the motor came loose and the layer shifts became worse and worse. I also had an issue with the gear that sits on planetary gear shaft that feeds the filament coming lose and stopped feeding. Somebody at the factory is not tightening things down.
@@room281tech8 Guess I'll be torque checking EVERYTHING when I replace the bearings. I really cannot complain about performance for the price point, but, I mean.. ungreased bearings and non-tightened fasteners is kind of a goofy marketing ploy.
@@publicacultus I definitely would. My printer one day just stopped feeding. After I disassembled the extruder, lubed and tightened the gears, I was actually able to print my filament at lower temps. Basically I had to overheat my filament to get it feed, but didn't know it until I fixed the issue.
Thanks so much for the video!!
Would you mind sharing the part number/model or brand name of these grey bearings?
I can seem to spell their name to search for them.. thanks so much once again.
Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 LM8UU Bearing
Thanks so much!
@@tonyharion9816 you're welcome
i made my bearings from petg and ofcuts of ptfe tubing sliced in 4
so there is 6 inserts made from the tubing in each bearing block slided in under slight interference and wear in in place untill they move smoothly
and they are all pink :|]
Curious how the bearings are holding up since it’s been around 5 months since you put them in. I recently purchased a SV06 and am looking at this option.
Thanks for the great videos.
They're working great. I'm actually actively printing stuff as I type this. I'm very impressed with them.
@@room281tech8 Thanks, sounds great!
I found theese exact igus bushing are way too lose for the bed bushings, specially on the side where there is only 1 busing. Replaced all, except the bed to theese bushings, but for the bed, its just not tight fit enough. Luckily found 3 acceptable, from the original bearing, after cleaning and packing they works acceptable.
I wasn't really happy with any of the bearings. The igus have been great so far, no complaints. They are slightly loose but nothing worse than the stock bearings it came with.
how many did you have to use for the sv06?
So there are 2 bearings in each z-axis carriage, 3 in the extruder carriage, and 3 for build plate, for a grand total of 10 bearings.
GO the proper Drylin Igus bearings, but if you have to print them, print the bearings from straight Nylon, not PLA or PETG.
I agree. Igus makes a bunch of filaments that seem to be geared for this kind of thing. However I think nylon filament is cheaper, easier to get, and probably just as good.
@@room281tech8 Straight Nylon works, I have used it, but the Igus filament is far more slippery, its self lubricating, its definitely better, the nylon bearings I have made, can bind and require a silicone, or PTFE synthetic lubricant to operate efficiently, Igus bearings don't.
@@NexGen-3D That is interesting about the nylon binding and needing lubrication. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. I should probably just pick up a spool from igus to keep on hand for special projects.
My solution to the SV06 noisy bearings was to return it before even opening box. I have seen enough similar complaints to yours that it dissuaded me from even messing with it. I have 8 Ender 3 S1 Pros with Sonic Pads and they have performed fairly trouble free. My next step up will probably be a Bambu printer which the P1P is only $400 more than the Sv06 and several times faster.
I also have 4 Elegoo Neptune 3 Pros and they are an awesome printer for $250. delivered. I won’t waste my time on the SV06 even if it does look like a Prusa.
The bearings were an easy fix. However, it seems like there have been much worse issues with their products leaving the factory. My main reason for this printer was being able to hit the high temps for the more "exotic" filaments lol. Mine has worked well so far. I haven't experienced an issue so extreme that couldn't be easily fixed. Personally, given the slow shipping speeds from Sovol and their hit and miss quality control, I don't think I would buy another.
Exactly what I decided after watching this video. No way in hell I'm putting up with this crap. These days there are simply too many good options to settle for a headache.
@@baxrok2. They're not horrible. I would by one of these over an Ender. The print quality is pretty good. My main issues that I have had were the bearings on both the SV06 printers I have and the z axis motor supports that connect to the gantry. Only one printer had the gantry issue. Other than that no issues. What I'm seeing is quality control with multiple manufacturers is lacking across the board. Post what you finally decide on.
@@room281tech8 I'm going to save my money and go with one of the newer mid range printers like the budget Bambu, K1, Voron, or other new printers coming out. I've been using cheapo printers for three years now and I'm ready to start enjoying the newest generation of tech and speed. With that should come fewer, but not all of course, worries about things like cheap bearings, etc. Thanks!
@@baxrok2. I have a ratrig core xy with a 500mm build plate. They come with several build plate sizes. Maybe look into those if you want to have something unique and extremely fast. I went with the ratrig because I wanted to be able to print materials like PEKK and PEEK. I went with the Sovol sv06 because it could reach temps up to 300C which allowed me to work with materials like CF nylons and other hybrid filaments. I don't think the voron will hit those crazy high temps like the ratrig but it is a quality machine and definitely worth it.
It's nuts that Sovol uses the cheapest possible bearings for the SV06 motion control. The Drylin bearings can't be much more expensive. If they could be sourced in China, they should be less expensive than ball bearings. This is a common SV06 problem. Nobody should need to replace the bearings on a new printer, but it's better to replace bad bearings before they score the linear rods.
Sovol does seem to use low quality parts, but I do like the design. It seems like I am replacing a lot of stuff on these printers. I actually have two of these printers. I have a box opening video of brand new printer I recorded several months ago that I really need to get uploaded. I had to replace a good amount of parts. Right now Im having issues with the pei beds. Im constantly having to sand them with 2000grit and then clean with acetone about once a month now. Rubbing alcohol used to work just find, now not so much. Either way, just another part to replace.
@@room281tech8 - I have an SV01 (not even the Pro version) that has been a workhorse printer for over two years. I replaced a hot end heater soon after getting the printer. That was cheap and easy to do. Otherwise, all I've done is clear three clogged nozzles but none of those were the printer's fault. Despite the low cost parts, the SV01 has been very reliable.
I do like Sovol's approach with a regular and Pro version with upgrades, but they should use high quality upgrades. I'm not sure cheap rods and bearings are an upgrade over acetyl rollers which are smooth and long lasting. I've had very trouble with the rollers on the SV01. I haven't even needed to adjust them.
You went down the same road I did.
This seamed cheaper than the $15 per bearing alternative from Misumi. I bought some bearings off eBay and they were worse than what came on the printer. So far these igus are working quite well.
Link to bearings?
I ended up using these Igus Drylin RJ4JP LM8UU bearings. You can find them on Amazon.
I have had a lot of luck using varioshore TPU bearings (0.6 flow, 20mm/sec, 213c, 99% infill, 0.3mm layer). It is for a different application (25mm pipe) but I may try them in the new SV06 plus I use at work. Here's a vid. ua-cam.com/video/eYeL5n3W4Y8/v-deo.htmlsi=3WZqtCkunGgLzYDK
do not print out bearings your printers are no where near precise enough to machine such a part.
It can be done and Igus has the filament to pull it off. After pulling measurements off the igus bearings, Im not seeing anything to extreme in regards of tolerances. Would I print a metal style linear bearing with balls, no.
I just noticed you're moving the bed around with your machine powered off. I noticed it generates a ton of electricity, and it's not good for your machine. I have a pi plugged in with an endoscope plugged into that, if I move the bed even slightly, the endoscope flashes. It's a lot of power being generated by even a small nudge. Careful.
Given some of the "quality" I've seen, you aren't wrong. If it's built right, then this shouldn't be an issue. I would be concerned if it is generating more electricity than the design allows and exceeding tolerances. I have heard of people frying their sovol mainboards by exactly what you mentioned. What kind of numbers are you pulling? Now you got me curious. I've heard some horror stories about the electrical on these SV06 printers.
@@room281tech8 I'm not actually sure, but the flashing endoscope light happens even when the bed is just moved even slightly. Sometimes the movement isn't even perceivable, but I'll still get that flash. It doesn't say the voltage or anything on the endoscope page (aliexpress). It's just surprisingly easy to generate current.