Відео

well this is genius hahaha!!

you are the best!! ❤

Have this issue on mine, they sent me a new bed, got a Bambu right after, and havent even messed w it, but plan on getting it running right soon-ish

I just wanted to say thank you, I’ve clipped my sv06 a few months ago, and your video was the main reason it worked thank you for guiding us trough it! 👍🏼👍🏼 I always was a little bit scared of doing it, but you have me motivation / hope ✌🏼✌🏼

Hi there ,in answer to one of your ideas was to put the Drylin bushes on the extruder rods .I did just that and found when you tightend them the motorholder gantry would not move , and due to the 6 screws at the back theres no room for ajustment !I tried to pack them out all to no avail ! So I will put them on the bed and see how it goes !! PS just replaced the bed steel rollers with Drylin bushes , I had to put masking tape strips under each side of all 4 bearing holders, as they where binding and then !!! Silence ! Thank you again !

I have had a lot of luck using varioshore TPU bearings (0.6 flow, 20mm/sec, 213c, 99% infill, 0.3mm layer). It is for a different application (25mm pipe) but I may try them in the new SV06 plus I use at work. Here's a vid. ua-cam.com/video/eYeL5n3W4Y8/v-deo.htmlsi=3WZqtCkunGgLzYDK

Just remember the beds are very thin and prone to warping so even if you get absolutely all the bed mounts to be level to each other you cannot control what that bed does while heated. You also need to tweak your bed mesh values and predictive values.

the jschuh git link is gone how do i find it ? i followed along and everything up to that point is good but no macros loaded

hi, once I install everything on pi imager and connect my board to power supply it doesn't connect to wifi. With default setup it does, but with this one (specific for 3d printer) it doesn't. That's a problem.

This was awesome man!!! Thank you for the video. I have 3 SV06's that all have the front left issue. This has fixed it!

I printed mine with PLA Plus and it does great.

I’m going to go over my sv06 and klipper again tomorrow and maybe I can get macros to work. Did it twice now on my own(before I saw this video) and both time I get everything up and showing up and the macros worked U til I try to print and I get a “can’t open print file” as soon as I hash tag put the Macros line in printer.cfg the file works fine but all the macros are gone again

Does Klipper help with bed leveling? I cannot seem to get a good bed level with my SV06+ on marlin firmware. Although I have done the silicone bed mod and I got every thing down pretty close, yet I can barely print on quarter of bed.

Hi can you reply here your bed mesh config on cfg my mesh fails during calibration, i cant acces to it in your links

So it sounds like the reason you needed to divide the number in half is maybe because it removed from both the inside and outside of each part? Did you ever check the external dimensions to see if they were changing too? I'm trying to figure out why my parts are dimensionally accurate on the outside, but interior holes are too small. If my above assumption is the case, adjusting my x-y compensation would change dimensions both inside and out right?

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It should be a Quick Straightforward process with select or deselect the modules whether needed or not clearly documented and IF the phone can be used without GApps Pathetic that Copperhead/Graphene OS does not support other devices! Feels like a G-string attached to the Cults by Anyway making people buy From the Goolags! Shell Companies in bed with The Alphabet so Where from DEGOOGLED Also Remember most of the Revanced etc you'll Find Shady Content including Terrorists Camps videos in there So Just Be Careful with them! NewPipe is better option despite the Unexpected Errors BS By We All Know Who! The PEDOGATE Gang Hiding From Death Penalty over Decades now with my Son Hostage for Blackmail 9 years 2 months 16 days So yes Migraine is Not a Good Buddy when Trying to Figure Out What Method Steps correctly Work Flawlessly without ANY BRICKS Again When Restarts Needed Which commands are for temporary and which are for Permanent changes whether Wipes are Necessary or It Will Work Just Fine and Manually later on if Sluggish Through TWRP clear whichever partitions or sections alone leaving data intact and yet sorting out and Speeding up the Phone! I'm So Tired Reading and watching videos where none are with the correct systematic steps for repeatedly already asked if there's a method for just LineageOS + MicroG + F-Droid +Aurora and Call it a Day or Night! I am trying hard to Grasp the Concept When it Doesn't Seem Logical on reading the documentation As Always Dependencies methods logs not present showing What Exactly makes any Difference In Security etc When Yes even My LineageOS whoever Sold Snake oil Illegal Access to my devices with the Illegitimate Governments etc so I Know There's Basically NOTHING that's Secure! My Address and Courts Cases Numbers are THERE IN MY COMMENTS Anyone Free to Try to Prove Me Wrong! Wait Till They Find Out Who I Am and What's Been My Job since my Birth! 44 years 3 months Now Enough Records Created In ENTIRE human history they're repeatedly locking down the World and India Under Hoaxes and False Flags despite losing trying to push NWO in Illegally nazis RSS full blown exposed Modi CIA puppet clans of Deep State! Thanks in Advance if you reply and I've been Killed by Satellite Weapons! 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IF THERE'S ONE I'LL BE THE FIRST TO USE IT AS LOTS TO POST NO TRUST WORTHY SITE OR PLATFORM THEY'RE ALL BLOODY CROOKS FUNDED BY THE CONVICTS OVER THE COURSE OF MY CASES SWIFTKEY BOUGHT BY MS 2016! SO YES CONSIDERING MY SITUATION IF THERE'S ANY WORTHY SUPPORT AND INPUTS I'LL DEFINITELY TEST OUT WHEN I HEAR BACK FROM ANYONE WHO'S TRIED A SINGLE LOW POWER SYSTEM PI4 2GB! OS FROM SD CARD USB 4 PORTS TO PRINTER HDD USB TO ETHERNET DONGLE 4TH BACKUP HDD OR OTHER OPTIONS THERE'S 2 MINI DISPLAY PORTS PROBABLY 4TH TO WIRED CCTVs System Access! Strange Despite My Telling It Out Programmers Hackers Coders Couldn't still Come Out right Minds.com wants $500/month For how limited videos space? Right 44 Years History of Cases MOST OF WHICH ILLEGALLY HACKED CORRUPTED DESTROYED RIGHT UA-cam REMOVED 7 MAIN VIDEOS MURDER ENCOUNTER ASSASSINATE ATTEMPTS! SO YEP NO ESCAPE FOR THEM EVEN IF SUCK NWO DAILY THREE TIMES TOO! I'VE BEEN WORKING AGAINST THE WORST PULLED THE BEST EVIDENCE FORCED CRIMINALS TO ACCEPT THEIR CRIMES STILL THE PUBLIC HAVEN'T HUNG THEM ALL UNDER UDHR AND NUREMBERG CODE! CRYING SHAME 8 BILLION CAN'T GET JUSTICE TAKE ON TERRORISTS HIDING LIKE COWARDS! TRYING TO HIDE NOW BEHIND RELIGION IT SEEMS NEW TEMPLE ETC TRYING TO FOOL GOD ITSELF AFTER FOOLING THE PEOPLE STEALING EVERYTHING OF THEIRS SO OPENLY AND BLATANTLY IT'S BEYOND RIDICULOUS! EXTREMES OF TERRORISM TYRANNY BY LOWLY COWARDS ROGUES AND THIEVES! JUSTICE ACTION NEEDED IMMEDIATELY!

you still running that SV06? Any changes or new mods?

Thanks for posting this. I can see why they changed their design on the SVO7.

i made my bearings from petg and ofcuts of ptfe tubing sliced in 4 so there is 6 inserts made from the tubing in each bearing block slided in under slight interference and wear in in place untill they move smoothly and they are all pink :|]

Silicon mode from prusa printers is way easier imo. Just replace this metal washers with silicone ones and then just tight the screws right. Also, just curious what max flow you are using and which speed are you printing at? I'm one the CHT clone nozzle, and get around 18mm^3 of flow and 100-120mm/s of stable speed with 0.6 nozzle.

I already knew about the XY compensation but i like a lot your method to find de error of your printer, easy, simple and actully looks more pricese then those tolerance tests I made in the past! I also think my printer has a diferent tolerance at z axis, so I will apply the same method for holes printed verticaly, since they alway look a little oval. Thank a lot!

how many did you have to use for the sv06?

I just heatshrink/soldered an "pigtail adapter" out of the original JST to a female connector for a 5015, the 5015 fans just snap right in to the adapter now, the toughest part is making sure the adapter is tucked up out of the way. Seems to work just fine. It also helps that I could use any type of fan on it now if I wanted to change things. One of the good coolers for the hotend uses a 4020 blower.

Does it have any issues with ABS? I noticed there’s a large gap along the sides

My sv06 plus seems to have decent bearings, i did lubricate them too before my first print. But def wanna give something like this a chance if they do go.

I installed the Drylin bearings on my SV06 Plus' bed, and at first they were nice and tight and smooth, but after about 100 hours of printing, they are loose as a goose. The bed has a full millimeter wobble around the z-axis. I did, however, load them up with lithium grease when I installed them, thinking the self-lubricating claim was possibly marketing horsepoop, so maybe the grease softened them and caused extreme early breakdown?

this is exactly what i do in my device, i just patch UA-cam, and UA-cam music and listen to music.😂

For anyone doing this, I've noticed that if you get the PROBE as close to the screws as possible, rather than the nozzle, you tend to get better results, or at least, I do personally. The following will get the probe pretty close to the screws: screw1: 84.5, 135 screw1_name: center screw2: 0, 49.5 screw2_name: front left screw3: 169.75, 49.5 screw3_name: front right screw4: 169.75, 219.5 screw4_name: back right screw5: 0, 219.5 screw5_name: back left

XY compensation in PrusaSlicer grows/shrinks the entire part by the chosen value (it is no different than scaling by a very small value). It doesn't just modify hole dimensions. What PrusaSlicer really needs is a hole compensation setting.

What i've done is double up the thumb nuts, i made really super thin ones. Springs gone. One thumb nut above the bed carrier, one below on each screw. Normal nuts just below the bed. Adjustable and locks by jamming tight.

I don't do that. I don't think it should be done. If you have any curvature in the Z threaded rods, you constrained them at the bottom, you constrained them at the top, you constrained them in the middle, deformation goes where? It goes into the frame. It bends the Z smooth rods to allow the threaded rods to keep wobbling. They wobble at half the amplitude, but the other half goes into the print, as the smooth Z rods at the carriage height get bent offset relative to the bed. Print quality is solved by re-aligning the coupling, and also using one that is straight.

I have a different printer from 2017 which also uses an LM8UU/LM8LUU motion system. Didn't like the sound of original bearings, and they came right with a layer of rust, but the quality actually turned out to be OK. Still i wanted something else. So i got these IGUS bushings. I have not had fun with them, not at all. They stuck AND they wobbled, and then they wore in, and then they wobbled more, there really is a lot of play on them. There is a lot of wear on them after some use. Not good. I have tried a number of bearings. Don't buy Misumi, you go broke. Don't buy Ali and Scamazon stuff, you get garbage. I found a small local mail order seller, who all they do is bearings, and the bearings are actually good and very very inexpensive. I have not had trouble with a single bearing i got from them. I don't know where the actual product comes from, i think they might be Chinese but there's bearing manufacturers all over, in Taiwan are the good ones, also Thailand, Philippines etc; and what don't get from a dedicated seller like that are bottom of the barrel rejects you get on global marketplaces. Today i only use recirculating ball bearings on the Z axis though, on XY i went for a printed bushing with a coating of PTFE spray, i print them out of PETG, and i always use "Perfect linear bearing 8mm vase spiral mode" by LifeRider. This has held on for a couple years just fine. I've been getting a lot more out of them than out of Igus bushings. The reason i use plastic bushings that even when recirculating ball bearings run well, which as you found they don't always do, they are audible, because super hardened balls rubbing and bumping each on the next one is just normal operation, while plastic is silent. When switching from bearing to bushings, i inspected the rods and found them not super smooth, as ball bearings tend to etch themselves in. So i chucked them in a drill and polished them with compound and a rag, until they felt very nice. Also gave me an opportunity to wash them of grease, since i don't want that on plastic. I think recirculating bearing is sort of an a priori bad design, i actually think a system with radial roller bearings is fundamentally better, but i don't have a printer at hand with such a system. Radial bearings have the balls separated by a soft cage so they don't touch and scrape at each other, making less noise.

helpful video trying to configure git and trying to follow script on screen but too blurred any chance you could post your git script I know the credentials will different for myself ...thanks

Question: I'm getting the mix fold 3. Will I be able to root it so it will have the global rom and not China rom? (Hope I asked that correctly )

Hey man, that's pretty good. Very smooth transitions to the next topic, everything flowed really well, and I didn't even realize I spent 27 minutes watching this. That's all fine and good, but I'll quantify that last statement with this; I'm not a tech guy. I struggle with the tediums involving tech and programming. The fact I was able to follow along and actually feel like I was comprehending it is shocking to me. It's broken down to be an easy to digest format without being smug or demeaning or condecending

I'm about the buy this printer, should I buy upgraded bearings right off the bat?

I replaced all the bearings on my SV06 with those from igus, but I felt the force needed to move the axles was much greater. And this happens only when I finish tightening the screws. Have you experienced this with your printer? Would you make it softer to move and perhaps a little loose or difficult to move and very firm?

what are the dimensions of the plexi?

From side to side just level the gantry. The auto level doesn't work super well when it is way out.

❤️ "Promo SM"

You know any place that makes these enclosure?

all those injection molded parts in the factory ducts are made out of ABS for this reason I am sure.

Thanks so much for the video!! Would you mind sharing the part number/model or brand name of these grey bearings? I can seem to spell their name to search for them.. thanks so much once again.

I'm sorry I'm trying to figure out how you are measuring because I'm confused. Do you print it 3 times or do you measure, turn the print 90 degree's and measure again? or do you print it first> measure > make a rough estimate and adjust prusa > slice and print again > measure again? Because there is a cut that makes it a bit unclear tbh.

You went down the same road I did.

Interesting video, but the sound is a bit too loud - I can still hear some words ;-)

Stupid question here... if the screws are tightened down to the bed enough with the nylon locking nuts, how do you secure it back to the bed platform? I haven't taken mine apart yet, so it's not apparent. Just wanna get my ducks in a row prior to disassembly.

Was wondering if you could send me link to Prusa Slicer Config. Link is directing me to Klipper Config with Macros. Thanks, and great video.

What is camera mount you show in the video?

thanks for the upload man. Don't forget to pack m real good