How to Change Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2015 Honda Odyssey EXL
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Brief step by step on how to change brake pads and rotors on a 2011-2015 Honda Odyssey. Hopefully this video will save you money. Thank you for watching, please like and subscribe.
Link to my other channel:
/ @ohblookout3624
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This is the best, most concise how-to auto video I've ever seen. Someone with no auto knowledge could change rotors with this video. I appreciate you uploading it.
jakflak thank you!
Thanks for the thorough, well edited video. Also thanks for not wasting time with a long intro or loud music :). Very well done!
Thank you for such a detailed, no-nonsense, beginner-friendly video sir! It helped me out immensely and saved me about a hundred bucks.
Its amazing that you used one hand to hold the camera while changing the rotors. its not easy as it looks. Great Video.
Excellent Tutorial. Quick and to the point
Thanks for posting this. My 2013 has a very aggressive flutter when I apply brakes when cruising down hill on freeway. I think the rotor are warped. Your step by step will make this an easy job and save myself a shit load of money.
THANK YOU!!!
ToddB987 mine too. If you have an advanced auto parts near by, use the promo code P20 at checkout when you order the parts online. Saves 20%. They will have parts ready when you get there
There are new front rotors that are supposed to fix this problem. www.odyclub.com/forums/54-2011-2017-odyssey/236801-new-redesigned-odyssey-brake-rotors-2014-a.html
Good vid, you definitely don't live in an area that has to deal with much if any rust. I have never gotten Honda brake rotor screws off that easily here in the Northeast U.S. 👍🏽
Great job, two things that I would add. Use break clean to clean the rotor and grease the slide bolts.
Brake clean?
Slide bolts need cleaned and greased
the rotors comes greased to prevent rust, Need brake cleaner to remove grease from rotors.
On here for the same reason everyone else is… well made no nonsense videos
Thank you!
Thanks much for this video. Really helped me out.
Nice video. Precise and to the point!
Thanks
Thanks for this video..camera tripod would help next time. Great job!
Perfect
great video, just a fyi, on my 2015 the wheel torque is 94ft/bls
The Phillips screw will most likely be seized. Have an impact driver handy
Thanks for the info. Excellent video and very helpful.
Do yourself a favor and get an blow driver to remove the Phillips screw holding the rotor to the hub. To breach the rotor from the hub use 2 metric hex bolts (can’t remember the thread and pitch). Definitely look up torque settings for all bolts. Definitely grease the caliper pins and make sure they move freely. Also, do yourself a favor and spend another $10 to purchase rotors with painted the hubs and fins. They will last a lot longer. Modern rotors typically can’t be turned.
@how to get stuff done, can you confirm if rear brakes are the same procedure? I will need to do my rears before my fronts and really appreciate the expertise you have shown in this video.
Simple, straight forward "how-to" video. Sizes of sockets on my 2012 Odyssey Touring elite was 2mm smaller than the ones mentioned in the video. Otherwise, Thank you for K.I.S.S. (Keeping It Simple ((for the)) Stupid)!!
Disregard. Im an idiot. Sizes of sockets are correct for front brakes but different for the rear. Cheers!
There are liners on the backs of the brake pads... does that mean I don't need to add any grease (as in the video) or that red disc-quiet on them? Great vid... thanks!
Personally I think it would be best to add it
I just installed pads that were a single integrated piece (ceramic) and the directions stated not to apply grease to the backing...
Only one hand needed?
This is excellent. I take it the process is identical for the rear. Also, do you have the torque settings for the bolts on the caliper? I like to torque everything properly. Though on some things, a good "Umph" is enough torque.
Vessel Megadora Impacta screwdriver is the appropriate tool to release that rotor. The regular screwdriver will strip it. I got mine from amazon for $12.00.
Thanks for the help! Very well done!
Awesome! Excellent job!!
Just a couple thoughts as I watch for the first time...I know nothing about cars so I am watching to learn. What happened to the c clamp holding the caliper together? It just disappeared. Then the step where you were gripping the brake pads and putting the caliper back on would have been good to see instead of seeing off then on so nondescript. Thanks for making the vid.
jaxboogie the c clamp is used just to compress the piston on the caliper. After that it is not needed as the piston will stay compressed on its own.
So good. Thanks man.
I just replaced rotos and pad after see your video, thank you so much. After replace rotos and pads for front side, my streeting shaking problem was gone when braking. BTW after replace them a week ago, and after around 15 minutes driving, I feel the front alloy wheels are(left and right) too hot always, I can touch my hand it on the alloy wheel surface, but feel too hot (measuring temp is around 170~180 Fahrenheit) is this normal? or my purchased rotos and pads stuff are not good ?
Before I compare with old rotos (original equipped OEM part) back in, I would like to know if this is serious problem or normal situation.
Moon Lee 454Casull addresses this in a comment below, it is a common problem for this year range of Odysseys and there are new rotors to address the problem
Monumental estadio salado
@2:27 that screw is Damned near impossible to take off. It’s almost always rusted in there.
great video. thank you
Fantastic video thanks so much!! I take it no difference when doing rear pads?
steve myers thank you! Rears are very similar, I plan on doing a video of them sometime in the future to show any subtle differences.
Thank you!
Is loctite/threadlocker needed when tightening back the bolts?
Tuan Tran, I wouldn’t
Verry good
Hi, thanks for the well made video.
How important is it to lube the guide pins? Ive seen other videos emphasizing this aspect but you didn't mention it. I'm planning to change the brake rotors+pads for the first time (first both for me and my mini van), and i dont want to screw up.
which guide pins are you referring to?
Sorry i wasn't clear. I'm referring to the pins that the caliper slides on. I wrongly called them "guide" pins.
I've never had any issues with not greasing the bolts that hold the calipers on, you'll notice there are rubber dust sleeves to protect them. Make sure they're clean before putting them back on. I suppose you could grease the smooth part of the bolts, but I'd avoid greasing the threads, because you don't want the bolts to come loose easily.
Thanks so much for the quick reply! What you say makes sense. I will grease the smooth part (not the threads) only if it is excessively dirty..
I truly appreciate this video as well as your advice. Thank you.
Thank you
I have honda 2006 weel nuts going to tight 94 lbf-ft
I would like to know the torque specs for the caliper bolts and caliper frame bolts.
mdapple Caliper Bolt = 27 ft lb
Caliper mounting bracket bolt, front = 80 ft lb; rear = 41 ft lb
two questions, where did you put the jack stand? also when compressing the caliper with the C clamp, did you place it (front side) on the brake pad? and then on the back side what? the caliper itself? thanks
I put the jack stand under the van in the center near the joint for the swing arm. You are correct, the front side of the c clamp is on the brake pad and the back side is on the caliper itself.
awesome thank you for the quick response.
Legit bro, do u do the same to both sides if your only changing the front brake pads?
Oasis UHAMAKA thank you, yes absolutely, I discuss this briefly at approximately 9:46. If you’re changing passenger side front pads, change driver side front pads as well, if you’re replacing a rotor on one side do the other side.
No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the factory retention bolt off (had to resort to using an easy off). Any tips for next time?
Try spraying the bolt with WD-40 (make sure not to get any on the braking surface area of the rotors) and let it soak for a while, sometimes that will help make it easier to remove.
Don’t use a Phillips. It’s a JIS 3 fastener. Looks almost the same, but quite different. JIS will give you a lot more torque and less slippage.
I used an impact JIS 3 from Amazon. Took a 3# hammer and some good, spot-on heavy whacks, but it eventually loosened right up.
@@Jeppedy would an impact small drill work?
@@MJ-kr3bs no, that works very differently. An impact screwdriver is mostly force into the screw head with a little rotation. An impact driver is all about rotation.
do u have a vid on the rear brakes and rotors?
modmike not at the moment but I will try to get one up soon, they are very similar to the front since they are also disc brakes
👍👍👍 wheel
Can someone tell me where he placed the jack Stand?!?!
I apologize for not showing it better in the video, it's shown a little bit around 2:45, I placed one jackstand under each side on the center crossmember, near the joints for the front swingarms. Always be very careful when using jack stands and make sure they are placed securely to avoid potential damage to your vehicle or serious injury.
Can someone confirm if rear brakes are pretty much same procedure on a 2012 (3.5L) Odyssey?
very similar
😀👍👍👍