When you compress the caliper, use an old brake pad between the c clamp and the cylinder. It spreads the force out evenly and also protects the rubber around the cylinder.
Great video. I’m a professional mechanic. I have done thousands of brake jobs. Your video is great. Just make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush or hub cleaning tool and use anti seize behind the rotor. One thing you did that I had never seen before was using the nuts and bolts to push against the back side of the rotor. Good idea. Normally when people take them off with bolts you drive them in with the two threaded holes in the front and it will pull it right off. Also my preferred method for compressing the piston is too just take loose the master cylinder cap and push them back like that. Keep the bleeder screw closed it’s a lot less mess. And definitely look into the right size wrench for the bleeder. Take it from me I’ve rounded off and broke off plenty of those before a precise wrench is a must. Just offering my suggestions for next time and that hopefully helps you out. I think it’s great to learn to fix your own car. 🙂
Thank you! Good tips and I will definitely use anti-seize next time. I read somewhere that keeping the bleeder closed and pushing fluid back could damage ABS system, not sure if that’s true but that’s why I did it that way.
right on about anti seize on the rotor, I did that. Do the bleeder screws have to thread all the way in? or just back tight. I was afraid to break it, so made it snug. From what I have witnessed in garages, mechanics would take a 5lb hammer and just whack the rotor off, maybe not a great idea, but it works.
Nice video. I would just compress caliper back no need to bleed, you really made a mess..do it first next time. Just go slow and make sure your brake fluid cap is off. Also you dont need to use the back bolt trick if your rotors are stuck. You see the two small hols at 8:10 on front of rotor (between the lug studs)? You can put a bolt in there and crank, that does the same thing. I also like to put anti seize on the hub 9:10 (aftercleaning all the rust)...this will help rotors come off easy next time. No need to get on the bolts. Biggest pain in the butt on these brake jobs are getting the pads back in, the silly little clip on the pad (warning wear pin) makes it difficult to get in just right. Took a while
Good points, didn’t realize what those holes were for but that makes sense. Also yes anti seize would have been good, I just did my rear brakes and used anti seize for them and future jobs. Thank you!
Very nice tutorial! If I may add, a long plastic tubing or hose can be connected to the bleeder valve to direct the brake fluid away from the rotors and brake pads. I also like your way of using bolts to pop the rotor off. Very clever idea indeed!
A very impressive tutorial and video for how to do this job. Your descriptions are very clear with fine suggestions. Thanks very much for a fine presentation.
Next time just remove the cap from the break master cylinder, it'll relieve the brake line pressure and you can compress the brake cylinder A LOT easier.
Great video and instruction and thanks! BTW, just learned what the two screw holes are for on the rotor itself, use them to insert the bolts to loosen it, it works well and you won't have to worry about damaging it.
Great video. Liked the mechanical bolt system to press out the rotor. Most shop mechanics just sledge them off, which probably is ok, but more caveman like. I did crack the bleeder, made it easier to compress the cylinder, worked great. I never used to do that lol. Great tools list, saved me time hunting for stuff. This wasn't my car, so first time doing a Camry. The pad wires are cool, my cars don't have those.
Bro, believe me this is the most clean, clear and smooth brake job video I ever saw on UA-cam. I mean that. I'm going to do my break next week. Thanks a lot. Just liked and subscribed your channel. 1 Question , which size bolt did u use to knock off the rotor ??? That was soo smooth. Please let me know
Very helpful,very helpful,i used your technique,with the bolts n wrench,to get the rotor off,I was having problems,and thought i actually had to go n rent a tool from the part store,but,thanks to your video,i worked like a charm,appreciate ya,it was giving me a headache 😮😮
Thanks for the clear and concise video. About to do a brake job on my 2017 camry too. One thing though, wouldn't you want to clean off the rust/corrosion from the wheel hub with a wire brush and brake cleaner before you install the new or machined brake rotor? It's what I've seen with other brake job videos.
This was my first brake job and I don’t have a ton of experience. When I do my rear brakes I’ll keep that in mind and clean the wheel hub. I have seen folks applying copper anti seize to prevent the rust building up in the first place, so that’s an idea for after cleaning the hub. Good luck!
Not bad, but def needs a few comments: 1. There are bolt holes in the face of the rotor (at 12 & 6 o'clock in your video) that are there to pop the rotor off. You thread a (8mm?) bolt in the hole and screw it down and the rotor pops off. 2. As other's said, don't use the bleed screw, just push the fluid back into the master cylinder. And with your method, you now are low on brake fluid, and must add to get the level back up!!! 3. And as others said, do NOT push the cylinder with your C-Clamp; use an old pad so you do not damage the rubber gasket. 4. You might have emphasized that people MUST hang the caliper, and not let it dangle. 5. The rotor needs to be scrupulously clean!!!!!!!!!! Another reason to NOT use the bleed screw method, 6. People NEED to be warned that their brakes WILL NOT WORK until they step on the brake pedal a few times after replacing pads. Yes, you said to do it but people need to be warned that if they skip this and put the car in reverse, it will NOT be stopping!!!
Nice video! I've never done any brake installation before. But recently I've been trying to understand front brake pad installation and the different parts that are involved. 9:08 Toyota calls them fittings or anti-rattle clips (or casually, hardware). The shims are the plates that go on the back of the brake pads. Also, and I'm bring nit picky here, I believe the wear indicator goes at the top. The way I see it is... okay... at 12'o clock, where does the rotor first make contact of the pads?
Good points, I wasn’t exactly sure on the right terminology. I also spent about 30 min trying to figure out where to put the wear indicators and wasn’t able to find a consensus answer online…
Apologies for the late reply. The brakes will function properly without the wear indicators (squealers), but I would install them so that you have warning before the pads become too worn to function properly.
Is it necessary to open bleeder all this time? cause i replace my brakes twice without it already. when I watched other youtubers then they didnt mentioned it
I replaced rotors and pads on my 07 camry . I think I misplaced the caliper guide pin. There is 1 guide with rubber on it. Can u tell me dose it go on top or bottom side of the caliper bracket ?? I'm a bit confused. I think I have to re-do that again. Thank you
Why install all 5 lug nuts when removing the rotor? You only need to install one lug nut just by a few threads. Afraid of damaging the rotor face? Who cares! Your replacing it anyways, hit that sucker as hard as you can from the rear face
Cleaning was an unnecessary step. It will get dirty again in like 2 min. Don't put grease into the boot too. It might make an incomprehensible space behind the pin.
Done brakes for decades why in the world would you want to open the bleeder valve???that is not necessary at all, once you do that then you let air into the brake lines & will have to do a complete brake bleed on all wheels creating extra work.. I tell anyone who is watching this video do not open up the bleeder valve it is completely unnecessary just replace the brakes & be sure to keep the master cylinder filled to the full line on the master cylinder reservoir.
@@BurtBowers is there a risk of compressing fluid against the ABS module and causing damage? I’m not very experienced, but I heard that online and that’s why I went that route. Next break change I’ll switch it up.
When you compress the caliper, use an old brake pad between the c clamp and the cylinder. It spreads the force out evenly and also protects the rubber around the cylinder.
Great video. I’m a professional mechanic. I have done thousands of brake jobs. Your video is great. Just make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush or hub cleaning tool and use anti seize behind the rotor. One thing you did that I had never seen before was using the nuts and bolts to push against the back side of the rotor. Good idea. Normally when people take them off with bolts you drive them in with the two threaded holes in the front and it will pull it right off. Also my preferred method for compressing the piston is too just take loose the master cylinder cap and push them back like that. Keep the bleeder screw closed it’s a lot less mess. And definitely look into the right size wrench for the bleeder. Take it from me I’ve rounded off and broke off plenty of those before a precise wrench is a must. Just offering my suggestions for next time and that hopefully helps you out. I think it’s great to learn to fix your own car. 🙂
Thank you! Good tips and I will definitely use anti-seize next time. I read somewhere that keeping the bleeder closed and pushing fluid back could damage ABS system, not sure if that’s true but that’s why I did it that way.
right on about anti seize on the rotor, I did that. Do the bleeder screws have to thread all the way in? or just back tight. I was afraid to break it, so made it snug. From what I have witnessed in garages, mechanics would take a 5lb hammer and just whack the rotor off, maybe not a great idea, but it works.
I have heard that too. I used to just take the master cylinder cap off, but tried it your way and it worked nice. @@assyrequired
@@VOOODOOO37 there should be like half the threads sticking out as long as it’s wrench tight your fine.
awesome, thanks!
@@blakewaddell451
Nice video. I would just compress caliper back no need to bleed, you really made a mess..do it first next time. Just go slow and make sure your brake fluid cap is off. Also you dont need to use the back bolt trick if your rotors are stuck. You see the two small hols at 8:10 on front of rotor (between the lug studs)? You can put a bolt in there and crank, that does the same thing. I also like to put anti seize on the hub 9:10 (aftercleaning all the rust)...this will help rotors come off easy next time. No need to get on the bolts. Biggest pain in the butt on these brake jobs are getting the pads back in, the silly little clip on the pad (warning wear pin) makes it difficult to get in just right. Took a while
Good points, didn’t realize what those holes were for but that makes sense. Also yes anti seize would have been good, I just did my rear brakes and used anti seize for them and future jobs. Thank you!
Amen about getting the pads back in. 😖
Very nice tutorial! If I may add, a long plastic tubing or hose can be connected to the bleeder valve to direct the brake fluid away from the rotors and brake pads. I also like your way of using bolts to pop the rotor off. Very clever idea indeed!
Very clever, might do it this way next time
Please do more vehicle DIY's. This was seriously great!
love how details the entire video is. Great jobs!
@@T7tea thank you!
I just ended up taking the brake reservoir cap off instead of messing with the bleeder valve
I would compress the caliper piston first before installing the new pads and rotors. You probably contaminated the pads with brake fluid. Great video…
Wow that bolt trick just saved my ass thank you!
You’re welcome!
Awesome video just changed my breaks for the first time…appreciate the content
@@kevincollado6077 awesome!
its almost perfect until you open the bleeder screw and the brake fluid went to the disc and pads.. but the explanation is very perfect and amazing
Nothing a little brake cleaner can’t get off. And thank you!
A very impressive tutorial and video for how to do this job. Your descriptions are very clear with fine suggestions. Thanks very much for a fine presentation.
Thank you!
Excellent tutorial , particularly well-organized in comparison to others I've watched. Crystal-clear video quality too.
Thank you!
First time changing my brakes and I did a great job thanks to you really appreciate it
Thank you! first time I’ve changed my brakes and the only problem i had was two broken dust caps for my brake fluid.
Great to hear!
Next time just remove the cap from the break master cylinder, it'll relieve the brake line pressure and you can compress the brake cylinder A LOT easier.
Thank you!
One step you missed is to wire brush and clean the front surface of the wheel hub before installing the new brake rotor.
Good catch, I’ll do that next time. And add some anti-seize as well.
Very impressive video, very helpful and educational. Simple, too, for kids to understand.
Thank you!
Good and clear explanations. I will be changing pads and rotors sometime next week.
Glad it helped let me know if you have any issues!
Great video and instruction and thanks! BTW, just learned what the two screw holes are for on the rotor itself, use them to insert the bolts to loosen it, it works well and you won't have to worry about damaging it.
I’ll definitely give that a go next time. Also going to apply anti seize so that it doesn’t stick in the first place. Thank you!
This is awesome great help.
Glad it helped!
you re very good in making complex things seems easy , keep up the good work , thanks mate
You’re welcome!
One of the best videos, I have seen. Good job.
Thank you!
Great video. Liked the mechanical bolt system to press out the rotor. Most shop mechanics just sledge them off, which probably is ok, but more caveman like. I did crack the bleeder, made it easier to compress the cylinder, worked great. I never used to do that lol. Great tools list, saved me time hunting for stuff. This wasn't my car, so first time doing a Camry. The pad wires are cool, my cars don't have those.
Bro, believe me this is the most clean, clear and smooth brake job video I ever saw on UA-cam. I mean that.
I'm going to do my break next week. Thanks a lot.
Just liked and subscribed your channel.
1 Question , which size bolt did u use to knock off the rotor ??? That was soo smooth. Please let me know
Thank you! Glad it helped. I used 3/8 in by 3 in long hex bolts with 3/8 nuts to pop the rotor off. Good luck let me know if you run into any issues.
@@assyrequired thanks, sure I will if there is any
This is great, thank you. I especially like how you got the brake pads in! Please do a video when you change your rear brakes too! Thank you.
Very helpful,very helpful,i used your technique,with the bolts n wrench,to get the rotor off,I was having problems,and thought i actually had to go n rent a tool from the part store,but,thanks to your video,i worked like a charm,appreciate ya,it was giving me a headache 😮😮
Awesome video man... Thank you great explanation
Very helpful video thanks!
Glad it helped!
One thing to note, the caliper pins are different, length and tip. If they are in the right location both should be able to be compressed.
Good information, thank you!
Thank you so much for this video سپاسگزارم
You’re welcome, glad it helped!
Very good video very clear thank you
You’re very welcome!
You did an excellent job on showing everthing needed to do this. Did you use Toyota rotors or an aftermarket brand?
Apologies for the late response. It was a mid tier aftermarket option, I’m not convinced high performance top of the line parts are necessary.
Or option 3 see those little holes on the disk..they are threaded put bolts in and pop of it comes
Bolt is M8-1.25 - Thread Pitch is 1.25 millimeters
Good to know, thank you!
Awesome video. Perfect. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the clear and concise video. About to do a brake job on my 2017 camry too. One thing though, wouldn't you want to clean off the rust/corrosion from the wheel hub with a wire brush and brake cleaner before you install the new or machined brake rotor? It's what I've seen with other brake job videos.
This was my first brake job and I don’t have a ton of experience. When I do my rear brakes I’ll keep that in mind and clean the wheel hub. I have seen folks applying copper anti seize to prevent the rust building up in the first place, so that’s an idea for after cleaning the hub. Good luck!
Not bad, but def needs a few comments:
1. There are bolt holes in the face of the rotor (at 12 & 6 o'clock in your video) that are there to pop the rotor off. You thread a (8mm?) bolt in the hole and screw it down and the rotor pops off.
2. As other's said, don't use the bleed screw, just push the fluid back into the master cylinder. And with your method, you now are low on brake fluid, and must add to get the level back up!!!
3. And as others said, do NOT push the cylinder with your C-Clamp; use an old pad so you do not damage the rubber gasket.
4. You might have emphasized that people MUST hang the caliper, and not let it dangle.
5. The rotor needs to be scrupulously clean!!!!!!!!!! Another reason to NOT use the bleed screw method,
6. People NEED to be warned that their brakes WILL NOT WORK until they step on the brake pedal a few times after replacing pads. Yes, you said to do it but people need to be warned that if they skip this and put the car in reverse, it will NOT be stopping!!!
Good points. I’ve heard that pushing fluid back into the cylinder can damage ABS module, which is why I used the bleed screw. Is that accurate?
the holes on the rotor are for you to screw in a bolt that will help brake the rotor free :)
Excellent instructions thank you
good job
Thank you!
Thank you so much
Glad it helped!
Awesome job. I had to do the bolt trick -- thank you for adding.
Thank you very helpful 👏🏻💪🏼🙏🏻
Muy buena ayuda gracias
Good job 👏
Dope vid
you do realize that the 2 holes in the disc are threaded so you can screw the appropriate bolt in that will force the rotor off right?
I did not realize, thank you!
Thank you 🙏
What were the specs of the bolt and nuts needed for the rotor trick?
I used 3/8 in by 3 in long hex bolts with 3/8 nuts to pop the rotor off
@@assyrequired thank u for the quick response!!
👍
Squirting brake fluid on your pads was not good, otherwise you did a good job for a first timer.
Please make a video on toyota avensis please
I would if I had that vehicle!
Nice video! I've never done any brake installation before. But recently I've been trying to understand front brake pad installation and the different parts that are involved. 9:08 Toyota calls them fittings or anti-rattle clips (or casually, hardware). The shims are the plates that go on the back of the brake pads. Also, and I'm bring nit picky here, I believe the wear indicator goes at the top. The way I see it is... okay... at 12'o clock, where does the rotor first make contact of the pads?
Good points, I wasn’t exactly sure on the right terminology. I also spent about 30 min trying to figure out where to put the wear indicators and wasn’t able to find a consensus answer online…
Wear indicators always go inbound
Inside pad
@@petermaciak8030Is it OK to put the wear indicators on both pads?
Should’ve hammered the rotor from behind. I always do on my Yaris. One or two good swings with a hammer from behind will pop it off.
Hi there very helpful video question on option 2 what are the two bolts size used to take out the rotors thank you in advance
14mm and 17mm sockets and you’ll need a 17mm slim wrench as well. More details in the video description. Hope that helps and good luck!
Sorry but I meant the size of the bolts when you took out the rotors the size of the two individual bolts
@@salwansalem8099 I used 3/8 in by 3 in long hex bolts with 3/8 nuts to pop the rotor off
@@assyrequired thank you for the reply I appreciate it
@@salwansalem8099 you’re welcome, good luck!
Is it necessary to use the wear pads
Apologies for the late reply. The brakes will function properly without the wear indicators (squealers), but I would install them so that you have warning before the pads become too worn to function properly.
Awesome. What kind of camera are you using by the way if you don’t mind me asking
iPhone 13 Pro Max and a Rode shotgun mic
My foot brake was on while changing rear brakes. Will that damage something?
do you have time to service my jeep wranler please
Unfortunately I can’t do this
Is it necessary to open bleeder all this time? cause i replace my brakes twice without it already. when I watched other youtubers then they didnt mentioned it
I would suggest opening the bleeder while compressing the caliper back so as to not place fluid pressure against the ABS module.
I replaced rotors and pads on my 07 camry . I think I misplaced the caliper guide pin.
There is 1 guide with rubber on it.
Can u tell me dose it go on top or bottom side of the caliper bracket ??
I'm a bit confused. I think I have to re-do that again.
Thank you
The bottom usually
Why install all 5 lug nuts when removing the rotor? You only need to install one lug nut just by a few threads. Afraid of damaging the rotor face? Who cares! Your replacing it anyways, hit that sucker as hard as you can from the rear face
Haha fair point!
You sound like Joe Rogan
It is really good and interesting but the way of you used to jacking up the Camry is so dangerous, that is not regular jack
It’s the jack that came with the car from the factory…
@@assyrequired While possible, investing in a garage floor jack is a better idea
Cleaning was an unnecessary step. It will get dirty again in like 2 min. Don't put grease into the boot too. It might make an incomprehensible space behind the pin.
Done brakes for decades why in the world would you want to open the bleeder valve???that is not necessary at all, once you do that then you let air into the brake lines & will have to do a complete brake bleed on all wheels creating extra work.. I tell anyone who is watching this video do not open up the bleeder valve it is completely unnecessary just replace the brakes & be sure to keep the master cylinder filled to the full line on the master cylinder reservoir.
@@BurtBowers is there a risk of compressing fluid against the ABS module and causing damage? I’m not very experienced, but I heard that online and that’s why I went that route. Next break change I’ll switch it up.
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing.
@@someguy5035 you’re welcome!