Good video, i'll have to try this method. I found using the supplied cloth and just putting a few drops on at a time did a pretty decent job of my stock. I tried the finger method and like you say its very hard to get it even.
Great video, just put a small hole in the foil cap cover instead of removing it. Then you wont get so much dried up bits around the bottle top. Good luck
You should try ArmourAll as a catalyst. Once you get about 5-6 coats and sand in between to get the pores filled and the stock smooth it only takes a few minutes to get your final shiny coat. At that point you can put on as many coats as you want. The trick is to get the pores filled and the stick nice and smooth before your final coat. You can do about 5-6 coats daily with this method and its dry to the touch once done. No drying time.
Thank you for the excellent video. I am currently in the middle of my project using your tutorial with great results. I am using beech and I have a super glossy finish, but, I wish it was a darker color. Can I sand the top later, add an oil-based stain, then continue with my Truoil?
Bottle says to wait 2 hours between coats. My experience is that 2 hours is the minimum if you live in a hot and dry climate. If you live somewhere humid, give it 24 hours between coats. And after you're done coating it, give it upwards of a week to cure. Maybe less if you live in a hot and dry place.
@@shootingatdawn thank you. Does it matter water based or oil based? I want to add it to the walnut stain that came with the tru-oil kit to give a nice dark red cast. My replacement walnut grips are very light color with little grain, certainly not heartwood. It needs some character.
I'm completely convinced this product is for those who really don't know what a perfect finish is. It's basically a varnish that is impossible to get streak free.
Great video' very helpful
Good video, i'll have to try this method. I found using the supplied cloth and just putting a few drops on at a time did a pretty decent job of my stock. I tried the finger method and like you say its very hard to get it even.
Great video, just put a small hole in the foil cap cover instead of removing it. Then you wont get so much dried up bits around the bottle top. Good luck
You can put a thin layer of foil over the original foil and seal cap over top. Keeps it airtight.
I store it upside down so the gunk caused by the skin stays at the bottom of the bottle
Really liked your video. I was having a hard time getting an even, thin finish. Your method did the trick. Thanks for sharing.
Great video and information that you have shared with us. Your stock looks great!
+ratagris21 - thank you. Glad it helps :)
You should try ArmourAll as a catalyst. Once you get about 5-6 coats and sand in between to get the pores filled and the stock smooth it only takes a few minutes to get your final shiny coat. At that point you can put on as many coats as you want. The trick is to get the pores filled and the stick nice and smooth before your final coat. You can do about 5-6 coats daily with this method and its dry to the touch once done. No drying time.
Thank you for the excellent video. I am currently in the middle of my project using your tutorial with great results. I am using beech and I have a super glossy finish, but, I wish it was a darker color. Can I sand the top later, add an oil-based stain, then continue with my Truoil?
Nope
Nice video 📹 mate 👍
You are the Bob Ross of UA-cam gun restoring and more!
Can you have to many coats? I thinking about using the rest of my little bottle of tru Oil.
I dont know mate. I just stopped when I was happy. I have a little left for touch ups and refinishes.
Do you need paper sand on it
How long does the tru oil have to sit to be completely dry?
Bottle says to wait 2 hours between coats. My experience is that 2 hours is the minimum if you live in a hot and dry climate. If you live somewhere humid, give it 24 hours between coats.
And after you're done coating it, give it upwards of a week to cure. Maybe less if you live in a hot and dry place.
Did you get the red finish with just the oil or did you initially stain it?
With this particular gun I applied a stain first.
@@shootingatdawn can you please tell me the stain you used? I’m not sure where to start.
Any stain will do. I think I used Rustins red mahogany for that one.
@@shootingatdawn thank you. Does it matter water based or oil based? I want to add it to the walnut stain that came with the tru-oil kit to give a nice dark red cast. My replacement walnut grips are very light color with little grain, certainly not heartwood. It needs some character.
I just bought wood stain. Never even looked at whether it was water or oil based to be honest.
What's the name of the liquid sir
Tru oil
Umm Tru Oil I'd go with just a guess bud
I'm completely convinced this product is for those who really don't know what a perfect finish is. It's basically a varnish that is impossible to get streak free.
unfortunatley you are using trueoil all wrong totally.
How do you mean “all wrong”? Please explain. How do you do it?
@@baklash6079 you never let oil dry
@@andyp9678 The instructions on the bottle literally tell you to let it dry between coats.