Beautiful finish ! I’ve watched this video several times and wondered if this would work on a lighter colored laminated stock(green, tan, black& brown? I think). I’m concerned that the sanding might create a slurry which would dull/stain the definition of the laminated wood. Have you ever done this before on a laminated wood or if not what would you suggest. Thank you for all your informative videos. I don’t have a pay pal account what other options do you have.?
Good Morning Joe; I am on a muzzleloader Hawken build. I first finished the Hawken stock with a boiled linseed oil which turned out badly. It never would harden. The stock felt tacky and would not dry and cure. After looking at you videos of the Minwax Antuque Oil Finish I ordered a pint and after spending 3 days on removing the old finish, I started the AOF on my Hawken stock. I put 3 sanded coats on. It is amazing how easy it is too use and it works as advertised. Now on day 2 of the project, I am starting to apply the finish and buffing the excess off. It amazing how fast it dries. I will be able to finish the Hawken stock today. Thank you very much for your videos. Mike
This really works. the video doesn't allow viewers to appreciate the true texture and feel of the finished wood, I used this process on a custom black cherry thumb hole stock I made and was amazed how well it turned out. The only thing that was different for my job was using #1200 paper on the last sanding versus 1000 (since I couldn't find any). I showed the stock to several fellow gun enthusiasts and they were equally impressed. The stippled areas got the wipe on, wipe off treatments as described in the video, and they turned out very well too. Thanks so much for posting this method!
I can use this same technique on the wood coffee and end tables I make. I never considered wet sanding with the oil. Great idea. Beautiful finish. Thanks
Thanks for this great video! I first used MinWax Antique Oil Finish to refinish an old library table. It’s been in use for over 20 years an it still looks great. I have finished and refinished several acoustic guitars with both TruOil and MinWax Antique Oil and prefer the MinWax. It is a GREAT finish for guitar necks especially. I will refine my finishing process using using your technique. I highly recommend this product if you want beautiful and durable wood finish.
I'm refinishing a Chi-Com SKS stock with your method. It came caked BLACK in cosmoline. It's beautiful to see the natural color of the wood come through with some good ol' elbow grease!
Thanks again, started sanding. I will show the finished product, will take a while though. You know work, time, and health. God bless and good Sunday to you, show more pup. LOL
I certainly can't wait but it's been this long....can you do a video for me and the fans before you send her out...comparing the different finishes, you have still in your safe, so as we can look at the differences and maybe go back and show just a brief clip of what's involved....so we can see what we are getting into and what to expect in our end results...a kind of highlight clip of finishes?...Thank you my brother! You Bad Ass 100yd golf ball shooting with 10 Meter Springer Airgun...Unbelievable! Very impressed Bigman here!
Also, I have a Question...Say we finish the stock with the Mnwax oil finish and we decide it's not shiny enough, or the oil didn'jt bring out the grain as we expected. Can we still go and put some Poly coats over the top?
Ronald Yetzer ...Yeah Man , if you get it in and decide down the line you want it shinier just apply a coat let it set and buff off. If you let the finish set for 10 mins or so it will get tacky and when its buffed off then more stays on the wood , and it gets more gloss to it . Hard part with this finish is toning back down ...With truoil you just steel wool it and its easy ..With this stuff its hard ( I haven't been able to do I well ) to get it even without building it back up some .
Wow very nice 👍. That is the perfect finish that I am looking for. Is there any yearly maintenance or anything to do over time to keep this finish and protection?
Can you post a link to the sanding video? I've never done this before and it'd be nice to see an example first, I'd appreciate it! Which grit of paper did you use the to sand it before putting the oil finish on? Someone told me I should use 1000 grit for the pre-oil sanding, is that right?
If you want a satin on any finish rub it with rotten-stone with an light oil soaked pad. If you want a high gloss rub it out with Turtle Wax scratch & swirl remover. No need for all that final sanding. Sand it once with very fine sandpaper (600 or finer). Then rub it out. Don't forget to tape off the checkering before you do anything.
well i clicked on your post ready to pull your video to bits, but supisingly i`m a little suprised and got to say they way you went about it wasnt to bad at all. For an amatuer to follow your post and to do the same isnt bad at all, they can do a l;ot worse, well done sir
Bar 270 is getting its wood refinished and dents steamed out. Cant wait to start the real stuff as i got fhe finish removed already with some kind of natural stripper. Took like 5 applications and i used a soft toothbrush for the checkering. I let it dry and its looking white or grey now. Its going to look really good. I have Ebony stain i want to apply in 5 layers or more. Then tung oil instead of linseed oil. I like to use it and make 8 layers and it looks shiny by then. Going to look good.
Great results ! So you now prefer this method over the prior Tru-Oil method ? Did you use the black magic marker "Marks-a-lot" on the stipling or a black wood stain ?
One thing that I always liked about Tru-Oil was that it was an easy job to touch up a scratch or scrape with it... I assume with the Minwax, you can do the same easy touch-ups ?
Joe, I love your videos dude. Very easy to watch, instructional and direct. I refinished an old JC Higgins Model 20 last year with Tru-Oil and I was really happy with the results. I just had a few stock finishing questions if you don't mind. 1: Does Minwax Antique Oil wear as well, is it hard enough etc, compared to Tru-Oil? 2: Have you had any experience with Richards Microfit stocks? Either laminate or Claro Walnut? 3: I couldn't quite hear the word you said in this video "Badina 66" I think? Where do I find a stock like that, with a longer forend? Much thanks.
How do you keep the grain from "opening up" as you sand? I've tried the wet-sand trick after sanding, but still have much of the grain "open". I've used up to 600 paper. Also tried with Watco Danish Oil, then tried Wipe-on Poly. Haven't had much success with either.
What you are doing with the True Oil is raising the grain of the wood, and sanding it off each time. You can do same thing with water. YOU should do this before you put any type of finish that will be the final finish. It makes a very pretty and tough finish on your stock.
I'm in the process of stripping my rifle stock it's my first time gonna strip today and apply stain tomorrow ,should I wet the stock after striping and sand it while wet to raise the grain or should I stain and and apply tru oil and wet sand first couple coats ?
Would it be proper to stain and do a light sand before applying this method? I’ve never done wood working or anything like that before so steps and process in that nature is completely new to me.
I re-finish a lot of gun stocks myself and I'm about to start another one. My techniques are a little different than yours but the results are about the same. Its all about filling in the grain. Makes the gun feel so much better. Is that a miniature Schnauzer? If so I have one too-Rocky- he's my partner
Howdy Joe! First off, thank you for the great videos and the smartass artistry! Love it! So I want to wood burn some art and stipple then grips. Will it be ok to woodburn after the oil refinishing? I’m thinking if it did it prior to, I’d hand the pyro down and fill it with the slurry. Thanks brother!
This is my first stock refinish. I got a Sam Yang 44 909 Light Hunter. Haven’t had a chance to shoot it because of the coronacation. So I said e’f it why not refinish the stock, it’s ugly! Lmao! So here I am! You on Facebook? I’d like to share the before and after. 🤘🏼
I build muzzle loading rifles using extremely high quality curly maple. I have been looking for this my whole life! It makes the finish look like its liquid. Hard to explain. Joe, can you use magic marker to darken stripes on curly maple or what would you suggest?
Chris Clemons Chris to me the Gamo Urban is the best entry level PCP hands down .Great quality , and excellent accuracy Don't be swayed by the reviews pushing " new product " ..The Urban is a real bargain
Hello Joe. I'm wondering if the same procedure you used in your (great) video could be used also with boiled linseed oil.. What do you think? Thanks a lot and best regards from Italy! :)
I don't use Boiled linseed oil where I live because the humidity is SO HIGH it never cures completely. So I honestly don't know . Sorry couldn't be of more help
Beetlejuice 01 ...If I find the right stock I'm gonna try it with a SNA blowtorch so I can control the burn better. But I'm NOT thru setting stuff on fire :)
i stained my russian sks stock with minwax polyshades and it's still sticky after 24 hours. should i wait longer for it to dry or did i mess this up and need to remove it? i sanded the wood, used tack cloth and i only put one thin layer of polyshades. i've never stained wood before and i know nothing about it except what i read online.
just sharing, through walfart online today i was able to get the #250 size tin of crosman .177 wad-cutter pellets for $2.70 something with free store pickup in 2 days. with the #500 tins still being just under $12, getting #250 for under $3 puts the price down below the beeman pointed pellets which by the way aren't bad pellets @ $7 for 500 through big 5....
Three questions. Does this finish seal it well enough for a hunting rifle? For wet days in the field? Could you do a vid showing how to do a grip like that?? The stippling and staining. Thanx in advance
@@CyclopsJoeVideos Thanx for your quick reply. Yea I’d enjoy a stippling and border vid. Not too many on YT and I think I’d like to do that on a laminate muzzleloader stock I’m doing. Enjoy your vids
No it will get up to a nicer e smooth sheen , but it won't shine like wipe on poly will . I love using this stuff ...I like the poly when the wood is kinda bland ...But if the wood has character I use this so it will show thru
If u use micro mesh 3k 5k 12k, this oil will glow. The antique oil has a hardener in it, and it will polish to glass. Keep in mind that with micro mesh, it's polishing, not sanding. Burnishing. You could use leather to rub it down as well.
Guys click the link below to help me keep my channel sponsor free !! Thanks in Advance . www.paypal.me/JoeWayneRhea
Beautiful finish ! I’ve watched this video several times and wondered if this would work on a lighter colored laminated stock(green, tan, black& brown? I think). I’m concerned that the sanding might create a slurry which would dull/stain the definition of the laminated wood. Have you ever done this before on a laminated wood or if not what would you suggest. Thank you for all your informative videos.
I don’t have a pay pal account what other options do you have.?
Good Morning Joe; I am on a muzzleloader Hawken build. I first finished the Hawken stock with a boiled linseed oil which turned out badly. It never would harden. The stock felt tacky and would not dry and cure. After looking at you videos of the Minwax Antuque Oil Finish I ordered a pint and after spending 3 days on removing the old finish, I started the AOF on my Hawken stock. I put 3 sanded coats on. It is amazing how easy it is too use and it works as advertised. Now on day 2 of the project, I am starting to apply the finish and buffing the excess off. It amazing how fast it dries. I will be able to finish the Hawken stock today. Thank you very much for your videos. Mike
This really works. the video doesn't allow viewers to appreciate the true texture and feel of the finished wood, I used this process on a custom black cherry thumb hole stock I made and was amazed how well it turned out. The only thing that was different for my job was using #1200 paper on the last sanding versus 1000 (since I couldn't find any). I showed the stock to several fellow gun enthusiasts and they were equally impressed. The stippled areas got the wipe on, wipe off treatments as described in the video, and they turned out very well too. Thanks so much for posting this method!
Thanks man
I can use this same technique on the wood coffee and end tables I make. I never considered wet sanding with the oil. Great idea. Beautiful finish. Thanks
Great technique! It is now my go to finish . Results have been perfect every time. Thank you very much.
Rob from Danville Kansas
Thanks for the video. You just took my project exactly where I wanted it.
Sir, I enjoyed hearing you talk and I got a lot of help from your very informative video. Please keep making them.
This is the best finishing video on the web! Much, much better than the plastic polys! You are a genius, sir.
Lol Thanks Man
Another well produced informative video. Keep it up, Joe.
I like the look of that satin finish . Excellent work Sir .
Awesome, just the look I've been searching for.
Thanks for this great video! I first used MinWax Antique Oil Finish to refinish an old library table. It’s been in use for over 20 years an it still looks great.
I have finished and refinished several acoustic guitars with both TruOil and MinWax Antique Oil and prefer the MinWax. It is a GREAT finish for guitar necks especially.
I will refine my finishing process using using your technique. I highly recommend this product if you want beautiful and durable wood finish.
That is absolutely gorgeous. Great work 👍
Thank You
Great video and excellent instruction and like the results.
I'm refinishing a Chi-Com SKS stock with your method. It came caked BLACK in cosmoline. It's beautiful to see the natural color of the wood come through with some good ol' elbow grease!
How did you get the cosmoline off? im in the exact same situation, cleaned the cosmoline out of the gun but its still heavily soaked into the wood
thanks Cy...i just might use this techneek on my next stock. love that wood!
Great detailed video, thanks Joe !
Very nice job just done my 1894 marlin rifle came out great.
Thanks again, started sanding. I will show the finished product, will take a while though. You know work, time, and health. God bless and good Sunday to you, show more pup. LOL
Hello i am of Paris. Thanks for tour vidéos. Good job
Great job there Joe.
Nick Brown ..Thanks Nick ....Its a really good product !!! Cool part is one can will probably do 25-30 stocks !!
Love working with the Antique Oil!
Fantastic video!
Joe,you are the man! That looks awesome! Thank you my Friend!
Ronald Yetzer .Wait till u see it in person
I certainly can't wait but it's been this long....can you do a video for me and the fans before you send her out...comparing the different finishes, you have still in your safe, so as we can look at the differences and maybe go back and show just a brief clip of what's involved....so we can see what we are getting into and what to expect in our end results...a kind of highlight clip of finishes?...Thank you my brother! You Bad Ass 100yd golf ball shooting with 10 Meter Springer Airgun...Unbelievable! Very impressed Bigman here!
Also, I have a Question...Say we finish the stock with the Mnwax oil finish and we decide it's not shiny enough, or the oil didn'jt bring out the grain as we expected. Can we still go and put some Poly coats over the top?
Last Question....what is a good sandpaper and were can we get it?
Ronald Yetzer ...Yeah Man , if you get it in and decide down the line you want it shinier just apply a coat let it set and buff off.
If you let the finish set for 10 mins or so it will get tacky and when its buffed off then more stays on the wood , and it gets more gloss to it .
Hard part with this finish is toning back down ...With truoil you just steel wool it and its easy ..With this stuff its hard ( I haven't been able to do I well ) to get it even without building it back up some .
Thanks for the information I just looked at the gauntlet. I had narrowed it down to the Dana or the urban.
This looks really nice!!
Thank you
Beautiful stock man, gotta get sum and do my new rifle
you are absolutely the BEST thank you for making your videos 10/30/2018
Wow thanks for that !!!
it looks great, thanks mate
Very nice Joe.Can't get any easier then that.
fsa1946 ...Thanks Frank , I was real proud of how it turned out
That Minwax made a month long job turn into a two day job, that looks damn nice, I like the semi filed pores and satin sheen!
it's a gorgeous finish in person
Just did this to my overunder shotgun and it looks beautiful
Wanna share a before and after pic?
Looks great
Nice job! Reminded me of spitshining!
Great video Cyclops, im on day 2 with my Browning 300 win mag 😁👍
You gonna love the final look !
Ol and pepper. Haha that’s a nice dang job sir
My next project, trying to keep busy your looks great 👍 👌 😀
“You can’t rub it too much”. isn’t that what she said!😂😂
She said it, I was there.
great vid it looks new
Very nice video! Thank you sir!
That's some cool wood.
Awesome Job
Great job!! Thanks
Great video 👍👍👍
Thanks Man
The stock in the thumbnail pic is real nice!
Man I would love to own that stock
Wow very nice 👍. That is the perfect finish that I am looking for. Is there any yearly maintenance or anything to do over time to keep this finish and protection?
Can you post a link to the sanding video? I've never done this before and it'd be nice to see an example first, I'd appreciate it!
Which grit of paper did you use the to sand it before putting the oil finish on?
Someone told me I should use 1000 grit for the pre-oil sanding, is that right?
hes definitely got an eye for gun stocks 😃
I’ve got a miniature schnauzer as welk
Mine is my sweetheart
If you want a satin on any finish rub it with rotten-stone with an light oil soaked pad.
If you want a high gloss rub it out with Turtle Wax scratch & swirl remover.
No need for all that final sanding. Sand it once with very fine sandpaper (600 or finer).
Then rub it out. Don't forget to tape off the checkering before you do anything.
better than new 4/17/2020 thank you eddy1e
well i clicked on your post ready to pull your video to bits, but supisingly i`m a little suprised and got to say they way you went about it wasnt to bad at all. For an amatuer to follow your post and to do the same isnt bad at all, they can do a l;ot worse, well done sir
Thanks Andy 👍
great video
Your PelletGuns ... Thanks man
Great Video! That stock turned out great!
Than Scott
Nice work. Im working on my winchester 30-30 might go this look.
Go for it!
Nice work
Bar 270 is getting its wood refinished and dents steamed out. Cant wait to start the real stuff as i got fhe finish removed already with some kind of natural stripper. Took like 5 applications and i used a soft toothbrush for the checkering. I let it dry and its looking white or grey now. Its going to look really good. I have Ebony stain i want to apply in 5 layers or more. Then tung oil instead of linseed oil. I like to use it and make 8 layers and it looks shiny by then. Going to look good.
right on awesome skills
thanks
Great results ! So you now prefer this method over the prior Tru-Oil method ?
Did you use the black magic marker "Marks-a-lot" on the stipling or a black wood stain ?
airmojo marks a lot and yes I like it better
One thing that I always liked about Tru-Oil was that it was an easy job to touch up a scratch or scrape with it... I assume with the Minwax, you can do the same easy touch-ups ?
What ever video editor you used.
keep using it I'm pretty sure TGC News used that thing in the beginning of the vid
Well I bought the stain just now so I’m a try it out
Hey Joe can I oil my gas Springer/ gas ram break barrel or are you not supposed to oil gas Springer's / gas ram and how do I oil it
Joe, I love your videos dude. Very easy to watch, instructional and direct. I refinished an old JC Higgins Model 20 last year with Tru-Oil and I was really happy with the results. I just had a few stock finishing questions if you don't mind.
1: Does Minwax Antique Oil wear as well, is it hard enough etc, compared to Tru-Oil?
2: Have you had any experience with Richards Microfit stocks? Either laminate or Claro Walnut?
3: I couldn't quite hear the word you said in this video "Badina 66" I think? Where do I find a stock like that, with a longer forend? Much thanks.
I’ve used several Richard’s stocks . And yes it wears just as well as try oil
Woodprix is nice for that.
Looks nice! Maybe off topic, but when making a stock from scratch, how do you make that sandy like texture grip as opposed to classic checkering?
Look up stippling gunstocks
Other than that nice upload I'll be back in the next one
How do you keep the grain from "opening up" as you sand? I've tried the wet-sand trick after sanding, but still have much of the grain "open". I've used up to 600 paper. Also tried with Watco Danish Oil, then tried Wipe-on Poly. Haven't had much success with either.
I use a small amount of finish as I sand and it fills in the grain with the sanding dust
Thanks, Joe.
You're welcome
New subscriber! I love your videos
Jacob Atkins ..Thanks Jacob ! I enjoy making them.
What you are doing with the True Oil is raising the grain of the wood, and sanding it off each time. You can do same thing with water. YOU should do this before you put any type of finish that will be the final finish. It makes a very pretty and tough finish on your stock.
I'm in the process of stripping my rifle stock it's my first time gonna strip today and apply stain tomorrow ,should I wet the stock after striping and sand it while wet to raise the grain or should I stain and and apply tru oil and wet sand first couple coats ?
Hi Joe, love the vids man! Can you tell me about dyeing the grip area, ideally what prep required?
Believe it or not I use a black marks a lot
I'm watching this video again because of my project
Would it be proper to stain and do a light sand before applying this method? I’ve never done wood working or anything like that before so steps and process in that nature is completely new to me.
You can stay at it and then apply this technique yeah it would work fine
I re-finish a lot of gun stocks myself and I'm about to start another one. My techniques are a little different than yours but the results are about the same. Its all about filling in the grain. Makes the gun feel so much better. Is that a miniature Schnauzer? If so I have one too-Rocky- he's my partner
It is Bella is my heart...My traveling buddy ...And brains of my operation
After this video is there anything to put on the stock to finish it or are you finished.
Love this method trying it for the first time thank you
Joe,
Can I use Renaissance Wax or linseed oil for a top coat?
Thx u
Joe was this stock beech or walnut? I'm thinking of doing my AA prosport walnut stock, as it's dry and unfinished from the factory.
Walnut
Hi, great video and I’m about to follow this for my Perazzi HT3.
How do you then maintain the finish?
No special care at all . Finish cures rock hard
Howdy Joe!
First off, thank you for the great videos and the smartass artistry! Love it! So I want to wood burn some art and stipple then grips. Will it be ok to woodburn after the oil refinishing? I’m thinking if it did it prior to, I’d hand the pyro down and fill it with the slurry. Thanks brother!
Yeah man that should work Great !
This is my first stock refinish. I got a Sam Yang 44 909 Light Hunter. Haven’t had a chance to shoot it because of the coronacation. So I said e’f it why not refinish the stock, it’s ugly! Lmao! So here I am! You on Facebook? I’d like to share the before and after. 🤘🏼
I build muzzle loading rifles using extremely high quality curly maple. I have been looking for this my whole life! It makes the finish look like its liquid. Hard to explain. Joe, can you use magic marker to darken stripes on curly maple or what would you suggest?
I would just let the natural beauty shine thru
You can take a cuetip and lightly stain the stripes first then lightly sand that stain off the areas where it bleed past the stripes
Ok I have to ask. I’m looking for a entry level pcp repeat rifle. What would you suggest to start out with. Thanks Chris.
Chris Clemons Chris to me the Gamo Urban is the best entry level PCP hands down .Great quality , and excellent accuracy Don't be swayed by the reviews pushing " new product " ..The Urban is a real bargain
Hello Joe. I'm wondering if the same procedure you used in your (great) video could be used also with boiled linseed oil.. What do you think? Thanks a lot and best regards from Italy! :)
I don't use Boiled linseed oil where I live because the humidity is SO HIGH it never cures completely. So I honestly don't know . Sorry couldn't be of more help
@@CyclopsJoeVideos thanks for the fast reply, Joe, and for the great videos. All the best. :)
Do you like the oil finish or the wipe on polyurethane you used on the other stock the best?
This one looks best to me
Volvox hard wax oil. Best quality oil finish you can get. If you want to see in to the grain like its liquid glass, this is the oil for you.
how do you maintain it , when I clean my rifles I usually use balastol on the wood , does this notify the need , effect it , Thanks great video
Benny I use a tack cloth , and a piece of my wife's wedding dress
A piece of your Wife's wedding dress. Your stone cold Joe. ;
Joe, what effect does the type of wood have on this process given that different worlds have different grains?
Paul Farrell ...Porous woods just take longer to stop soaking up finish .Waiting g overnight keeps a solid base for finish to build on 2nd day
Airgun Classics : Joe W Rhea Thanks Joe! Great information👍👍👍
Please do the fire pit finish again. Just a tad less fire this time though.
Beetlejuice 01 ...If I find the right stock I'm gonna try it with a SNA blowtorch so I can control the burn better. But I'm NOT thru setting stuff on fire :)
i stained my russian sks stock with minwax polyshades and it's still sticky after 24 hours. should i wait longer for it to dry or did i mess this up and need to remove it? i sanded the wood, used tack cloth and i only put one thin layer of polyshades. i've never stained wood before and i know nothing about it except what i read online.
Krono Mikon ..I wish I could help but I've never used their poly shades so don't know how long it normally takes to dry ...Sorry
Cyclops Videos Joe W Rhea no problem, thank you sir
Those transitions are far out Joe! LOL. The stock looks good. I prefer a satin on a darker wood though.
just sharing, through walfart online today i was able to get the #250 size tin of crosman .177 wad-cutter pellets for $2.70 something with free store pickup in 2 days. with the #500 tins still being just under $12, getting #250 for under $3 puts the price down below the beeman pointed pellets which by the way aren't bad pellets @ $7 for 500 through big 5....
Walmart is anti, 2ND amendment , so why are you supporting them ?
Wow
Do you use a wax over top of this finish to protect it or is this the final product?
This is final finish . I don't use wax
Three questions. Does this finish seal it well enough for a hunting rifle? For wet days in the field? Could you do a vid showing how to do a grip like that?? The stippling and staining. Thanx in advance
It’ll hold up great ! Great idea on the stillling video
@@CyclopsJoeVideos Thanx for your quick reply. Yea I’d enjoy a stippling and border vid. Not too many on YT and I think I’d like to do that on a laminate muzzleloader stock I’m doing. Enjoy your vids
Why no varnish? Does the oil only protect enough for a field gun in a wet environment?
It does
Hows that compare to tru-oil honestly, i mean i love tru-oil but id like to try something different.
It's a lot easier to work with , it honestly is like waxing a car with old school wax . Wipe on , let her dry just a lil , buff off .
Did you stain the stock before I have a real light birch stock and I want to get it darker could you stain it first and then your method?
Thanks
Yes
Question: if it doesn't turn out as dark as I'd hoped, can I apply a wood stain to it after it's had a day or so to sit?
Yes you can . It's no problem
@@CyclopsJoeVideos thanks for the fast reply! I'll do just that. I'm on the Day 2 steps today so we'll see how it turns out. Thanks again!
Samus Aran How did the staining turn out?
❤
I refinished the stock on my Sako L 597 with Boiled linseed oil . Its dull as it doesn’t bring out the grain of the European walnut
Which gun does the stock belong to? And is it custom made or factory?
Factory
Also can you get a high gloss finish with antique oil ????
No it will get up to a nicer e smooth sheen , but it won't shine like wipe on poly will . I love using this stuff ...I like the poly when the wood is kinda bland ...But if the wood has character I use this so it will show thru
If u use micro mesh 3k 5k 12k, this oil will glow. The antique oil has a hardener in it, and it will polish to glass. Keep in mind that with micro mesh, it's polishing, not sanding. Burnishing. You could use leather to rub it down as well.