You never wire 120v AC lights in series, only parallel. I assume you meant daisy chained, which is still parallel, but where the power line runs to each light along its path. If it was truly in series, the voltage would be distributed between them, so with three lights each would be seeing only approximately 40 volts (depending on ohm load).
I kind of miss seeing you guys building , cutting ,digging something anything. I'm definitely getting over the long and over explaining thing you do . Get back to work I hate skipping through your video clips
Crazy Americans, insulating electrical cables with foam that need to radiate heat. Huge no, no here in the UK. And weird Jessie is still complaining about inconsistent foam expansion when he's still not moistening the surfaces. It moisture cures, so with no dampening of surfaces its bound to be inconsistent.
LOL your definition of "ruined" is totally skewed...It has certainly lost some of it's "glimmer" with the finish being affected...but it's still a functional DOOR...it works, it locks when you want and unlocks when you want....far from ruined...
Why are you worrying about foaming every section of that space around the door and wire traces when you have an 8 ft and a 16 ft garage door right next to it???? I know garage doors do not create a tight seal!
I was wondering why would you wire those ext. lights in series it makes no sense, voltage drop across single light will be significant. Those are meant to be wired in parallel to the switch. Only thing that is in practice wired in series would be old style xmas lights. And usually there is a potential problem where one fails then they all fail.
Next video. "Repainting our custom door." In this video we try to find the perfect stain to match the finish on the door, and we explore which is the best ice to use. Crushed vs. Cubes.
When using that expanding foam theres a trick that will stop it from expanding outward from the hole further than you want it to. Just spray it with a water mist and it will immediately skim over and stop the outward expansion in the sprayed area.
I think that "Ruined" is a bit strong. Yea, it's going to take a bit of work to either refinish it or try to match the finish, but you don't have to throw it away and buy a new one. :)
6:00 Do you really mean to say "in series"? --💡----💡----💡----- Or "in parallel"? ==💡====💡=====💡 Series would have path of electricity passing through one load to reach the next. Parallel has them picking up power from a common circuit. 👫 Series 🛤️ Parallel 🤼 Parallel
With the foam problem on your door and being an aircraft owner, I suggest you acquaint yourself with Aliphatic Naphtha. We used it to clean A-4 Skyhawk windscreens. It thoroughly cleans the 'plastic' panel without damaging it. Thanks for the video!
make multiple pages of the floor plan and divide electric plan into separate circuits and do them one by one. this will clean up print and help your mind get around all the mess
On your dedicated circuits use a single outlet rather than a duplex outlet and you can use the full rating of the circuit because only one thing can be plugged in. Try WD-40 to remove the foam. It is gentle on paint.
Question, why fill the electrical chases at all It will make repairs or additions to the electrical circuits impossible, the holes that go through to the outside could be stuffed with insuwool or fiberglass insulation material?
I work with spray foam all the time. If it gets on a painted surface the best and only option most of the time is just wait for the sun to break it down. It will eventually get crusty like a scab and brush right off.
I gotta wonder where he got his information about the electrical codes. He does not seem to even have the jargon down pat and yet he is going on about what the codes say.
My friends husband was using foam in the garage making halloween props, and she told him water activates it and if he gets any on his hands or clothes to clean himself off outside and do not bring it inside knowing how it gets everywhere. Well, he got the foam on his hands and came in to wash it off in the sink. It clogged their sink pipes and their garbage disposal on the other side of the sink. She was so mad. She had to take off and cleanout the plumbing under the sink, and had to get a new disposal unit. Not to mention he cleaned his foam hands off in a full sink. So she had to replace some other stuff because that stuff gets so crazy.
If you let the foam dry, you can get it off pretty easy with your thumbnail!! That's way easyer and that way you don't destroy your finish on your door.....
You should have just built conventional stud walls in front of the sips for the ease of wiring, plumbing and sheet rock, and it would protect the foam walls.
simple trick for foam dripping is to tape a sheet of paper below to area to foam and tape the lower corners up to create somewhat of a pocket to catch the drippings. simple and cheap.
If one were painting over the door or substitute the word ‘foam’ with epoxy or glue or paint remover or dry wall dust how would one protect that expensive customer made piece of furniture. Called door. I guess one lives and learn. Up till now foam over flow did not matter. Drop clothes from now on.
That's right. When folks talk about all the money they can save doing it themselves, they fail to calculate in the learning curve and instead blame the product for their not knowing what the heck they are doing.
"Wired in series"? Do you mean 'daisy chained'? If you'd actually 'wired them in series' you'd be dealing with a lot more problems than you describe. And it certainly wouldn't have passed inspection.
If you are delaying the siding because of... reasons, I wonder if it would be helpful to just staple some inexpensive plastic sheeting (polytunnel plastic) temporarily over the SIP's... keep the rain and the wasps and the birds out of them.... plastic sheeting is cheaper than SIP's...
George, for 120 bucks they could have put tyvek over the SIPS a year and half ago. Pretty freaking cheap insurance for 20000$ SIPS that are not spose to be exsposed for more than 30-60 days.
@@robertbowman9108 It isn't any of my business of course, and I'm sure Jesse made some calculations about it, but I looked outside and it's November again... and he has a stapler... and a man basket.
@@martinw245 perhaps...but it doesen't need to be tight on the SIP's... just attached enough to keep most of the rain off and not let gusts of wind get under it. The Winter is almost here. in a week or two they could wake up one morning with half a meter of snow on the ground.
@@robertbowman9108 By the way, is the foam in those sipps antifungal? and rodent repellent? I imagine there are a lot of mice and stuff around there. (yeah, I know next to nothing about stuff like this, but I was wondering) ... and if a mouse manages to get into a SIP... it's Shangri-La.
ROTFLMAO That surely explains why this guy has so much trouble. I think it might have been Alexander Pope who said: A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...."
This is an easy fix, lightly scuff (with scotch pad), and repaint with either oil based enamel or automotive paint, pretty simple fix. It isn't ruined....
I suggest you contact the foam manufacture and ask what is the solvent to use to remove it. Also, contact the door manufacturer and get a half-pint of touch up paint.
All your suggestions are worthwhile to viewers but this video is weeks old maybe longer. Foam on door, single edge razor. Or maybe a drop cloth before foaming?
Let it dry, then use an exacto knife to trim it off. You can use craft paint to match the color and touch up the paint/finish. It would worth while to contact the maker of the door to see if you can get touch up paint/stain.
re: The foam getting everywhere. I saw your foaming the wall & roof panel videos, before I had to foam the space under our sink. I made sure I was wearing my crappiest work-in clothes & nitrile gloves, warned my wife I would be passing out sticky messy wipes, and taped garbage bags just below the places I was putting foam. Still got foam in odd places. Including the top of my head. Glad I'm bald, so no hair loss.
Call the 1-800 number on the can of foam and ask customer service how to best remove the foam without damaging the surface. Or, create a video and ask your viewers before hacking away. Uggg the drama🎭
Says over-here that the foam may cause cancer and recommend gloves are used. Re the foam on the door, been there, had the conversation with the boss, found best to wait until its set, normally will come off cleanly.
Two things. You wired lights in series? The only thing wired in series on AC circuits that I know of is old incandescent Christmas tree light strings. The garage door opener discussion was NEC Article 210.23(A)(2). The 50% only applies since he connected lights to the circuit too.
@@KevinCoop1 Of course, how else cold they work? :) I was actually thinking of series wired switches where you can flip whatever the state of the circuit is by switching either switch. Like used in hallways.
You are so lucky to be able to wire in stages. In NC we have to have entire wiring done for each stage to get a signoff which makes it impossible to finish rooms in stages.
I would wire the whole house asap. NEC (national electrical code) 2020 update goes into effect in most states January 1. I have heard that new code is putting the hammer down residential construction. it is going to make it harder and more expensive for your diy home builders.
M Gaudet if he already has his permit, he is grand fathered in on the old code. As long as he keeps it active, they must go with the date it was approved.
What I find fascinating is what is the same and what is different between how things are done in the USA and here in the UK, the one thing I really struggle with is no sleeve on the earth, we always sleeve with green/yellow sleeving, just seeing it makes me cringe.
We sleeve the earth in the UK for safety reasons. In a fault condition the earth could be live, and leaves you open to a getting a shock when doing any work. Then again we have had shuttered outlets for over 70 years, sleeved pins on plugs for over 35 years, and fuses in our plugs so a fault does not melt that 3A rated cable on a 20+A rated circuit. We also use BC connectors in our light fittings which are impossible to wire incorrectly. The end result is deaths related to the wiring (includes fires started by faulty wiring and electrocution) are around 10 times lower per head of population in the UK over the USA. Through it is rare in both countries, when you are used to something much safer, the less safe though still generally safe alternative looks stupidly dangerous.
What's the saying ; a bad workman always blames his tools.
You never wire 120v AC lights in series, only parallel. I assume you meant daisy chained, which is still parallel, but where the power line runs to each light along its path. If it was truly in series, the voltage would be distributed between them, so with three lights each would be seeing only approximately 40 volts (depending on ohm load).
What?!? Wiring lights in series?! Hire an electrician.
?
Pharel...
Lights each need their own neutral, but they can share the switched hot. They are the same as a resistor, so in series they are voltage dividers.
For some one who’s worked with foam so much, why didn’t you use precautions on doors! Can’t blame any one else
U always chastise people on the internet
Thomas W not always!
I kind of miss seeing you guys building , cutting ,digging something anything. I'm definitely getting over the long and over explaining thing you do . Get back to work I hate skipping through your video clips
Crazy Americans, insulating electrical cables with foam that need to radiate heat. Huge no, no here in the UK.
And weird Jessie is still complaining about inconsistent foam expansion when he's still not moistening the surfaces. It moisture cures, so with no dampening of surfaces its bound to be inconsistent.
Those outside lights not being centered or aligned evenly is driving my OCD nuts.
LOL your definition of "ruined" is totally skewed...It has certainly lost some of it's "glimmer" with the finish being affected...but it's still a functional DOOR...it works, it locks when you want and unlocks when you want....far from ruined...
Why are you worrying about foaming every section of that space around the door and wire traces when you have an 8 ft and a 16 ft garage door right next to it???? I know garage doors do not create a tight seal!
I was wondering why would you wire those ext. lights in series it makes no sense, voltage drop across single light will be significant. Those are meant to be wired in parallel to the switch. Only thing that is in practice wired in series would be old style xmas lights. And usually there is a potential problem where one fails then they all fail.
Why not call the maker of the door , tell them what happened and see if they can send you some touch up material?
Next video. "Repainting our custom door." In this video we try to find the perfect stain to match the finish on the door, and we explore which is the best ice to use. Crushed vs. Cubes.
Might be a silly question but with all the spray foam what happens if you have to replace a wire in there or pull for something else?
Wanna Be Tropics Cut it out like he did originally to install wire?
Does anyone else think the clickbaity titles are annoying?
Very. They basically mean you have no idea what the video is going to be about.
I think it's funny!! 'RUNIED'
oh look. blaming the materials again instead of taking simple precautions
Can't believe I can still see daylight between sip and door frame ! Why isn't there any backer rod stuffed in there ?
When using that expanding foam theres a trick that will stop it from expanding outward from the hole further than you want it to. Just spray it with a water mist and it will immediately skim over and stop the outward expansion in the sprayed area.
I think that "Ruined" is a bit strong. Yea, it's going to take a bit of work to either refinish it or try to match the finish, but you don't have to throw it away and buy a new one. :)
Going into your second winter without the exterior of the house being wrapped and sided?
6:00 Do you really mean to say "in series"?
--💡----💡----💡-----
Or "in parallel"?
==💡====💡=====💡
Series would have path of electricity passing through one load to reach the next. Parallel has them picking up power from a common circuit.
👫 Series
🛤️ Parallel
🤼 Parallel
Agree! Like the all the wall receptacles are in parallel!
With the foam problem on your door and being an aircraft owner, I suggest you acquaint yourself with Aliphatic Naphtha. We used it to clean A-4 Skyhawk windscreens. It thoroughly cleans the 'plastic' panel without damaging it. Thanks for the video!
Thank you sir!
@@flyingmonkey3315 You're welcome.
Why did you need another light over the door anyway a little overkill wouldn't you say Plus it looks like it's off center just saying 😲
The off center look is because of the lines on the OSB.
ok mr. nitpicker
@@bloodseedrums It's not Mr. Thank you very much
make multiple pages of the floor plan and divide electric plan into separate circuits and do them one by one. this will clean up print and help your mind get around all the mess
On your dedicated circuits use a single outlet rather than a duplex outlet and you can use the full rating of the circuit because only one thing can be plugged in. Try WD-40 to remove the foam. It is gentle on paint.
Question, why fill the electrical chases at all It will make repairs or additions to the electrical circuits impossible, the holes that go through to the outside could be stuffed with insuwool or fiberglass insulation material?
Livethedream guys like him are why remodels on other people's houses are nightmares
always cover and tape stuff off. lol you wouldn't have foam stuck to your door.
Gasoline will dissolve the foam without damaging plastics. Goof off and acetone will damage most plastics and remove most paints.
The door isn't ruined, it just lost some cosmetic appeal.
“..now the door is ruined” so much drama
Wrong. So much click bait.
I work with spray foam all the time. If it gets on a painted surface the best and only option most of the time is just wait for the sun to break it down. It will eventually get crusty like a scab and brush right off.
18:10 If an electrician wires a house like that in my country he will out of a job before he is finished.
I gotta wonder where he got his information about the electrical codes. He does not seem to even have the jargon down pat and yet he is going on about what the codes say.
My friends husband was using foam in the garage making halloween props, and she told him water activates it and if he gets any on his hands or clothes to clean himself off outside and do not bring it inside knowing how it gets everywhere. Well, he got the foam on his hands and came in to wash it off in the sink. It clogged their sink pipes and their garbage disposal on the other side of the sink. She was so mad. She had to take off and cleanout the plumbing under the sink, and had to get a new disposal unit. Not to mention he cleaned his foam hands off in a full sink. So she had to replace some other stuff because that stuff gets so crazy.
clean it with WD-40, will remove the sticky foam and makes almost no damage to the door finish.
You should keep the fact that you wired those lights in series to yourself.
Series? Lights should be in Parallel.
If you let the foam dry, you can get it off pretty easy with your thumbnail!! That's way easyer and that way you don't destroy your finish on your door.....
Why 3 lights over 1 door?
You should have just built conventional stud walls in front of the sips for the ease of wiring, plumbing and sheet rock, and it would protect the foam walls.
gasoline will dissolve most of this type foam and gas has a slight oil base that will keep it from destroying your door finish just don't scrub it
I don't think the door problem is a fault of the product it's an operator error!!!
Yes the error of not using a construction door or covering it with plastic.
simple trick for foam dripping is to tape a sheet of paper below to area to foam and tape the lower corners up to create somewhat of a pocket to catch the drippings. simple and cheap.
If one were painting over the door or substitute the word ‘foam’ with epoxy or glue or paint remover or dry wall dust how would one protect that expensive customer made piece of furniture. Called door. I guess one lives and learn. Up till now foam over flow did not matter. Drop clothes from now on.
Hmmmm interesting you remind me of my Father who could never admit to making mistakes blame the machine or product , sheesh
That's right. When folks talk about all the money they can save doing it themselves, they fail to calculate in the learning curve and instead blame the product for their not knowing what the heck they are doing.
"Wired in series"? Do you mean 'daisy chained'? If you'd actually 'wired them in series' you'd be dealing with a lot more problems than you describe. And it certainly wouldn't have passed inspection.
so many people get the terms mixed up. Myself included.
You need to sell your airplane, and hire a contractor!
If you are delaying the siding because of... reasons, I wonder if it would be helpful to just staple some inexpensive plastic sheeting (polytunnel plastic) temporarily over the SIP's... keep the rain and the wasps and the birds out of them.... plastic sheeting is cheaper than SIP's...
George, for 120 bucks they could have put tyvek over the SIPS a year and half ago. Pretty freaking cheap insurance for 20000$ SIPS that are not spose to be exsposed for more than 30-60 days.
@@robertbowman9108 It isn't any of my business of course, and I'm sure Jesse made some calculations about it, but I looked outside and it's November again... and he has a stapler... and a man basket.
Plastic sheeting layed over the top would trap moisture and delay drying. Bad idea. Better it gets wet then drys thoroughly.
@@martinw245 perhaps...but it doesen't need to be tight on the SIP's... just attached enough to keep most of the rain off and not let gusts of wind get under it. The Winter is almost here. in a week or two they could wake up one morning with half a meter of snow on the ground.
@@robertbowman9108 By the way, is the foam in those sipps antifungal? and rodent repellent? I imagine there are a lot of mice and stuff around there. (yeah, I know next to nothing about stuff like this, but I was wondering) ... and if a mouse manages to get into a SIP... it's Shangri-La.
Well, why didn't you use a drop sheet? It's called planning ahead.
lesson learned cover anything that you don't want the foam to grab ahold of.
this
Ruined - adjective: having been irreparably damaged or harmed
Their door wasn't ruined. It was RUNIED.
@@brianclaeys277 you missed that it was an EXPENSIVE DOOR
@@bloodseedrums I was looking for him to be clutching his pearls.
I know its counter intuitive but the first rule of wayward foam DO NOT TOUCH IT TILL DRY. Then scrape off with a plastic scraper.
Another excellent video Jesse and Alyssa. Every time I watch one I learn a lot. Thanks!!
I do too. But mostly about what NOT to do.
It's EXPANDING foam. Why did you fill the holes so full? You should have known they'd spill out.
Try using cooking oil to remove the foam from the door. Believe it or not it removes almost everything
You don't wire ANY 120V devices in "series". Everything is in parallel - Black to black, whites to whites.
ROTFLMAO That surely explains why this guy has so much trouble. I think it might have been Alexander Pope who said: A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...."
Stop blaming the product
Wired in series? Why are they not wired in parallel? Or are you messing up the terminology?
They still make fresh paint for the door new every day of the week.
This is an easy fix, lightly scuff (with scotch pad), and repaint with either oil based enamel or automotive paint, pretty simple fix. It isn't ruined....
Your lights you said were wire series they should have been wired in parallel this should have prevented the problem you had
Use WD 40 to clean the foam.
Just protect things before you start🙄!
Lol 3 lights above one door 🤪
Why don't contractors use finished doors until the construction is done.
I suggest you contact the foam manufacture and ask what is the solvent to use to remove it. Also, contact the door manufacturer and get a half-pint of touch up paint.
Jesse - Why do you care about siding all of a sudden? Are you becoming a "skidmark"?
the door company should be able to send you some touch up paint.
the sound of you working is better than the music
Sorry. But, ever heard of drop clothes and masking tape? Probably would've been a lot cheaper. Lesson learned?
All your suggestions are worthwhile to viewers but this video is weeks old maybe longer. Foam on door, single edge razor. Or maybe a drop cloth before foaming?
It never ceases to amaze me that houses are built the same way campfires are.
... I'm so glad you did a video about replacement / temporary doors...
Let it dry, then use an exacto knife to trim it off. You can use craft paint to match the color and touch up the paint/finish.
It would worth while to contact the maker of the door to see if you can get touch up paint/stain.
Seems weird to have 50% more slots in panel for the garage than the main house even with laundry in garage.
Oh don’t use acetone, that’ll remove paint and even melt plastic. Try WD40 on the foam on the door.
WD-40 will remove a lot of stuff.
Hey Jessie, like you said let it dry. Then scrape it off with a nice brand new credit card. Should be zero damage.
Until he swipes that card at the gas pump. LOL
Next project- not siding? What about winter snow and ice in cracks between SIPs?
try masking off finished surfaces when working near them. just sayin'. :)
bla bla bla bla... just do it man you talk much
you don't wire anything in series
re: The foam getting everywhere. I saw your foaming the wall & roof panel videos, before I had to foam the space under our sink. I made sure I was wearing my crappiest work-in clothes & nitrile gloves, warned my wife I would be passing out sticky messy wipes, and taped garbage bags just below the places I was putting foam.
Still got foam in odd places. Including the top of my head. Glad I'm bald, so no hair loss.
Some flaws turn into ageless memories. Years later they become stories, fables.
Calm yourself down ....you’re going to give yourself a heart attack!.... please don’t !...and I hesitated sending this !
Sheet of plastic drop cloth.
Call the 1-800 number on the can of foam and ask customer service how to best remove the foam without damaging the surface. Or, create a video and ask your viewers before hacking away. Uggg the drama🎭
don't touch the foam until its dry. then scrape off
You over filled the holes. Also you should have covered the door with plastic. Wait for the foam to cure and then you can remove it.
I wood have put plastic over the door to stop the foam getting stuck to it .😲👍👍
Says over-here that the foam may cause cancer and recommend gloves are used. Re the foam on the door, been there, had the conversation with the boss, found best to wait until its set, normally will come off cleanly.
It's a garage door. Chalk it up to lesson learned--the foam will fight back. Cover stuff up and tape it off.
Two things. You wired lights in series? The only thing wired in series on AC circuits that I know of is old incandescent Christmas tree light strings. The garage door opener discussion was NEC Article 210.23(A)(2). The 50% only applies since he connected lights to the circuit too.
Yeah. I was thinking hall light switches in series ... kinda. But anything drawing current ... nope.
mikethelma All light switches are series wired, but to your point, nothing that has a load is wired in series.
@@KevinCoop1 Of course, how else cold they work? :) I was actually thinking of series wired switches where you can flip whatever the state of the circuit is by switching either switch. Like used in hallways.
being able to see through the door frame perimeter would make me crazy
Wasn't an issue with your outside lights. They must be wired in parallel. No AC items can be in series. That was the issue.
tape the over the hole just after filling so the foam expands in the wall not out the hole !
itll doo you would think it's common sense
I have the same exact pocket knife! Mine is a prototype. The Designer is a customer of mine!
Try WD40. It won't mark the door.
You are so lucky to be able to wire in stages. In NC we have to have entire wiring done for each stage to get a signoff which makes it impossible to finish rooms in stages.
I would wire the whole house asap. NEC (national electrical code) 2020 update goes into effect in most states January 1. I have heard that new code is putting the hammer down residential construction. it is going to make it harder and more expensive for your diy home builders.
M Gaudet if he already has his permit, he is grand fathered in on the old code. As long as he keeps it active, they must go with the date it was approved.
@@chriscampbell1376 this was more for people who are just getting started on their projects. But I didn't know that. Thanks for the info
3 lights over that entry is just too much. I know that the other2 are mainly for the garage roll up doors, but seem cluttered
goof off is a paint remover. should read label and used min spirits to clean up foam
That's alright you'll get a freebie I'm sure
What I find fascinating is what is the same and what is different between how things are done in the USA and here in the UK, the one thing I really struggle with is no sleeve on the earth, we always sleeve with green/yellow sleeving, just seeing it makes me cringe.
We sleeve the earth in the UK for safety reasons. In a fault condition the earth could be live, and leaves you open to a getting a shock when doing any work. Then again we have had shuttered outlets for over 70 years, sleeved pins on plugs for over 35 years, and fuses in our plugs so a fault does not melt that 3A rated cable on a 20+A rated circuit. We also use BC connectors in our light fittings which are impossible to wire incorrectly. The end result is deaths related to the wiring (includes fires started by faulty wiring and electrocution) are around 10 times lower per head of population in the UK over the USA. Through it is rare in both countries, when you are used to something much safer, the less safe though still generally safe alternative looks stupidly dangerous.