I’ve been waiting for my second manix when knife dealers release a new one and Knife Center today released the manix 2 in cru wear, dlc and smooth g10. I have the lightweight and love it but wanted to wait on my perfect version on the knife. I live in WV and summers are ridiculously humid and I am FedEx driver and I sweat through everything and even into my pockets. So coated blades during the summer is a plus. I respect your testing and insight so much. Thank you for putting your testing out there for all of us to learn from.
Out of all the steels I have tried Cruwear has held it it’s hair whittling edge the longest by far. If it had better corrosion resistance it would be the only steel I would carry. Also Cruwear just wants to be sharp. Off of 600 grit stones the knife will whittle for me . Just awesome stuff. P.s. keep up with your work sir we appreciate it.
@@Outpost_76its a bumpin" EDC steel for sure. It, rex45 and k390. Maxamet goes without saying but cruwear is really quick to take a beautiful edge. Especially for the edge holding and toughness. Polished, toothy or anything between. Quick stop and right back to work. The black glove works well for the edge on camera btw... I cast to TV so yeah...
Nice use videos. Love my smooth Para 3 cruwear one of my more carried blades. My cruwear has no staining or rusting have been using it for about a year now. Great steel
Thank you for this, I've been hesitating on buying a paramilitary 2 in cru wear because I was scared it would be brittle and chip all the time, same thing with the s110v, now I'm about to order the cruwear and not look back.
Oh yeah. PD#1 Spyderco mule, which is essentially cruwear, was still on sale on sydercos website up until not long ago. I kick myself for not buying another one. A fixed blade cruwear knife is gonna be expensive, and a great companion knife
@@BenoJ3000 I tend to agree on a fixed blade of more than 3.5 inches. I have been looking for a fixed blade to beat on with a very high edge stable steel, like 52100, nitro v, 4v or cruwear....sleipner is in that category as well
Cbn on basswood I love it. Keep up these videos and thanks for stropping it this time. It's really interesting to see how the steel reacts to a little bit of love after a brutal beat down. In my opinion that makes a steel friendly. If I can beat up like a sk5 or a 1095 and strop it back in the field quickly, it's more useful than a blade in D2, s110v or m390 that chips or deforms. Not saying that they would, because I haven't done the research. That's why I watch your videos 🤣. I love 154cm in the field. My leatherman charge in 154cm just puts in work. I'll have to try cruwear next. I think that bentobox has some cruwear manix 2's still.
Hey there. I convinced my wife I spent 200$ on a “work tool” I’m an electrician. I think one of the most relevant tests you can do is a copper test. Not just that maybe a couple wire stripping tests. As this is one of the many use cases that isn’t card board many guys would like to know their knives ability to do so. Hope you see this and start with the cruwear Spyderco because that’s what I’ve got coming in the mail soon. Take care keep up the good work.
@@Outpost_76 I recommend going to your local Home Depot. They sell big wire by the foot usually 3 or 4$ per foot you can get a 2 foot 1/0 piece of copper insulated wire for around 10$ Then strip about a half inch of the insulation and you’ll have lots of test material left over. The reason I say this is because it’s nearly impossible to avoid digging into copper as you strip it plus copper looks cool on camera and actually can be cut by a good steel. I always see tests that would never really happen in day to day use and so I understand I’m just one person but I know alotttt of guys in the trades that carry and use their knives much harder than even a camper or survivalist. Granted a survivalist might use it to chop wood but construction guys use it harder over a longer period of time I bet. And probably make up a huge market share. Just my 2 🪙 PEACE! ✌🏽
I have a knkfecenter exclusive cruwear manic I completely pimped with titanium scales, ti blue hardware, ti blue milled pocket clip, glow in the dark blue backspacer and a blue to ball cage. it also has a glow in the dark paracord lanyard with glow in the dark carbon fiber bead. it takes an insane biting edge easily, is super tough and polishes easily. it's putting s35vn to shame in use. if you don't need stainless it's a no brainer imo. I having had any rust living in s.c either on the cru...maybe cuz I'm more careful I don't know
Wish this was a regular offering steel. I initially doubted the usefulness of having cruwear on a small knife like a delica or para 3, but I guess it's great for "real world" use, where you may hit a staple or something. Do you have a preferred Golden model?
Benchmade is stepping up and the Adamas and mini will both be in Cruwear. I'm not sure on a large scale they will consistently hit the 63-65 hrc they are advertising but I'm definitely going to get one to test. As far as Golden Spyderco models the Manix easily takes that spot. I also enjoy the Para 3 but it's always going to be a second to the Manix.
Which steel do you think is generally tougher cruwear or 4V? Because from what I understand hardness doesn't necessarily translate to toughness and wear resistance is different from impact resistance. So based on what I gathered so far a steel like maxamet that has a very high hardness I.E. 65-67 hrc also has a weakness in that it can become more susceptible to fracturing or chipping. So based on this information I've avoided maxamet and 10V so far and chose 4V for my hard use application's. Do you think I'm on the right track or would cruwear be a better option? Very curious to hear what you think. Thanks!!
Thanks for the review. I have a Shaman and Military in Cruwear, and I have been happy with both of them. I have also been using Rex45 and like it. I haven’t tried K390. I think that will be my next one. Out of those three which do you prefer?
Cruwear and K390 are pretty close for me in which I like more. Cruwear I like for its wide versatility and K390 from Seki and in customs/small batch heat treating I like for it's great wear resistance. Out of those 3 I'd order them Cruwear at the top, K390 then Rex 45. I still can't warm up to Rex so I'll be doing more testing and carry time to see if I come around to it. Golden K390 I'm going to do a video on this week and talk about it, K390 from Seki and Golden are quite different from my use and testing.
That spot from the sweating...is that permamnent? I live in South Florida and I only have a Para 3 but I am seriously considering the purple cruwear pm2. Would you recommend the Cruwear over S45VN even in Florida? Would a normal leather strop work for this steel? What compound would you recommend with the strop? Is this more desireable over S45VN? If I keep it oiled will it not pit like that one spot from the sweat?
That spot wiped off with my finger. The only benefit S45VN would have over Cruwear is corrosion resistance. Cruwear is pretty good at not staining easily and you would have to leave any spotting on it for it to pit. I personally prefer Cruwear due to the increased wear resistance, better edge stability and impact resistance. It's also much tougher than S45VN. My pick would be Cruwear and the example I have for testing from the new Dlt run is at a good hardness. For the price it's worth picking up the Dlt Cruwear PM2.
Living in an occasionally humid part of California, my k390 knife got rust spots over the last three months sitting with a coat of rem oil. Cruwear didn’t show any signs of corrosion through it was used frequently and barely oiled. I don’t know if too much oil causes rusting. A2 is not okay here either. Interestingly, 3v is not a problem here. Even on the one blade kept in its leather sheath for over a year
Consider what role you want for the pm2. It’s got a delicate tip which I wouldn’t trust in a stainless steel as my only knife. But living in a very humid environment, I wouldn’t spend big money unless it’s stainless
2 questions to start, before I forget them. 1. Why does your Manix have the scales from s90/154? You did not like the steel? 2. What happened to Kurt? He and SSS have been missing for a good while.
These scales came on another Manix I picked up, I never had the 154/S90V Manix version. Kurt won't be doing any more videos due to his workload now. BJ has his machine now and Steve has been busy and I don't think he will be doing many more videos either.
@@Outpost_76 I wanted to send a couple knifes, 0392s: and a Medford Onbelay & Oberland Arms Titan Sepp (both in D2 but with black coating, I know not a true reading) to Kurt to test. Thanks for info.
Vanadis 4 Extra, is another crazy good steel, the only one, that would have resist better the damage that Cru-ware took! Another good thing about Cruware, is that it can be easily restored if it takes microrolls after use.
Try delta 3v. Much better 3v heat treatment developed by Carothers but used by another brand, Survive iirc. Carothers does some really good heat treatments on d2 and a few other steels as well. Heat treatment is over looked in a lot of knives (geometry also) but it's also more expensive the more involved it can get.
@@tacticalcenter8658 i can see a higher hrc costing slightly more money, but not alot. Alex Steingraber does higher hrc on his knife steels and no significant cost that I can see. @alexsteingraber or am I wrong?
@@tacticalcenter8658 I know Carothers knives have seen a once, but not the Delta you mentioned, I will go check it! I wish I could get my hands on these knives,but I can't get that kind of knives where I live. I deleted what I said about 3V, because other people could be offended and I don't have the time to explain that its just my opinion and my taste. I like Vanadis 4 extra more than any other tool steel I have tried. I also love handforged ballbearing steel! I go check some delta. Thanks!
@@greekveteran2715 I don't think anyone would be offended and your not completely wrong about it. But yea if you can find delta 3v, you'll probably like it more than vanadis 4e. I have a shaman in 4v a similar analog. While I don't really like the model it's still a decent tool and that 4v holds up good.
Wood and Aluminum won't do anything at all.. Brass will cause edge roll on any type of steel.. I did edge stability test on nearly all Spyderco knife steels and its pretty much black or white!!! Either way the material is too soft and it doesn't do anything (Wood, Aluminum, Plastic) except regular edge wear or the material is too hard or too dense (steel, brass, copper) and you will notice immediately.. But yes it depends on the steel what kind of damage (Harder tool steels have advantage) Cruwear is awesome steel but on a bigger knife.. It's perhaps the most balanced steel honestly.. It doesn't rust easily, it's tough and holds very fine edge but best attribute is definitely ease of sharpening 🥰😉 Just amazing
I agree to a point, I have some interesting ones I've tested in this way coming up. I was surprised what some soft and medium hardness wood can do to some of these steels.ill get more in to those in the videos.
@@Outpost_76 Yes depends on wood too.. Dry Ebony will do about the damage as copper, equally dry oak is very hard and very dense indeed.. What I meant was fresh mediocre wood won't do much but I tried only edge stability not extensive cutting.. Dry Ebony it's like iron🙏 Thank you Gerald👍PS The aluminum is very sticky so it's more likely the aluminum residue rather than damage if you feel some.. I always use strop or cloth to take the aluminum of the edge
@@georgeyoung4292 I should post the S110V chopping oak, it chipped that like crazy. The bigger branch piece I've been using is about 2 years old now since I took it down. I may incorporate oak again, I just need to see if what I have is still good. It will be nice to see soft medium and hatd woods and how it differs. Maybe I should look in to getting a piece of a very hatd wood for lateral apex stress and see what happens with that. There is aluminum residue left and I did forget to add the Rex Shaman took micro chips so I'm curious to see if it gets any better as time goes on.
@@Outpost_76 I will send you some something.. georgeyoung0326@gmail.com🤝 It may take a while cause I'm on holiday but I'll try to get you something for testing.. Mary Christmas and Happy New Year 2021 G🙏 Let's hope it'll be better cause this year was SHITE💩
@@Outpost_76 Further on in the video I see where you say that. Sorry, lot of extra days and long hours at the USPS, hence asking questions for I forget them.
Just curious you sure that’s brass an not bronze. Because brass is usually soft . A lot of couplers are bronze because they need to be harder for the work they do. Really kinda surprised it rolled a edge being brass. Keep up the great work.
Would not M4 performed atleast as well or better? Even 3V seems to resist damage better, no? It's very hard to make comparisons from video of course but M4 seems to be as tough as it comes for me.
Cruwear has slightly better toughness but M4 has slightly better edge retention. People seem to have an easier time stropping and sharpening cruwear back up. They're both good imo, just depends on what you'd prefer. I personally like cruwear more (paramilitary 2).
It's an emulsion and it's the Bark River cbn 16 micron. I got mine from DLT trading. It gives good coverage and lasts well before needing to reapply. It also works very well and I'm going to try the 8 micron cbn as well.
Definitely triggers me how broken people speak these days…and it has permeated the media… dude, number of times you can strop it, not amount, number of times, amount of sugar, sand, water… but number of people and number of times… it’s that and also plural versus singular… people say “ there is many”… drives me nuts
Hey man! You're the only one left, who keeps it going, supersteelsteve, kenny are gone from youtube)) Cheers mate, keep it rolling
I'm hoping they will return at some point. I'm not quitting anytime soon
Hey , kenny delete his channel ?!
Cruwear and K390 are two of my all-time fav steels for their all around edc usefulness! Keep up the great work my friend!
I’ve been waiting for my second manix when knife dealers release a new one and Knife Center today released the manix 2 in cru wear, dlc and smooth g10. I have the lightweight and love it but wanted to wait on my perfect version on the knife. I live in WV and summers are ridiculously humid and I am FedEx driver and I sweat through everything and even into my pockets. So coated blades during the summer is a plus. I respect your testing and insight so much. Thank you for putting your testing out there for all of us to learn from.
The good thing about Cruwear is when I sweat on it the spotting wipes off with my fingers. That was Florida summer 98 degrees and very wet all day.
@@Outpost_76 it’s just piece of mind having that extra layer of protection with the coated blade.
Out of all the steels I have tried Cruwear has held it it’s hair whittling edge the longest by far. If it had better corrosion resistance it would be the only steel I would carry. Also Cruwear just wants to be sharp. Off of 600 grit stones the knife will whittle for me . Just awesome stuff. P.s. keep up with your work sir we appreciate it.
The BM Adamas is my hard use knife. Absolutely love it.
That, and my K390 Spyderco Police 4 are go-to when I need any job done..!
I gave my son my cpm154/s90v PEELED PLY CF and recently bought the Knife Ctr Exclusive Cruwear and SMOOTH CF to replace it. Yeah. Dig it.
I do have the smooth cf Cruwear Manix as well as the gray diamond G10 version. Can't have too much Cruwear.
@@Outpost_76its a bumpin" EDC steel for sure. It, rex45 and k390.
Maxamet goes without saying but cruwear is really quick to take a beautiful edge. Especially for the edge holding and toughness. Polished, toothy or anything between. Quick stop and right back to work.
The black glove works well for the edge on camera btw...
I cast to TV so yeah...
Great content here!
You testing videos are second to none...
Never used that steel before.
Thank you, Cruwear is one everyone should try.
Nice use videos. Love my smooth Para 3 cruwear one of my more carried blades. My cruwear has no staining or rusting have been using it for about a year now. Great steel
Thank you for this, I've been hesitating on buying a paramilitary 2 in cru wear because I was scared it would be brittle and chip all the time, same thing with the s110v, now I'm about to order the cruwear and not look back.
You're welcome
Cruwear chip all the time?
Man, cruwear is one of the tougher steels, one of the last steel that will chip on you.
Where did you get that idea from?
I beat on my cruwears and they don’t chip.
I love Cruwear! It's a very well rounded steel.
Oh yeah. PD#1 Spyderco mule, which is essentially cruwear, was still on sale on sydercos website up until not long ago. I kick myself for not buying another one. A fixed blade cruwear knife is gonna be expensive, and a great companion knife
Edge Stability is so important and seems underrated. I value that over ultra high edge retention
@@BenoJ3000 I tend to agree on a fixed blade of more than 3.5 inches. I have been looking for a fixed blade to beat on with a very high edge stable steel, like 52100, nitro v, 4v or cruwear....sleipner is in that category as well
can't help but love these. keep it up bud. gives a great impression of use and accidental impacts etc. any thoughts on vanadis 4E?
I like V4E, I'm going to try to get some for some videos after Christmas to compare to the Spyderco and SPK 4V.
Great testing! Glad to have found your videos
Thank you
Cbn on basswood I love it. Keep up these videos and thanks for stropping it this time. It's really interesting to see how the steel reacts to a little bit of love after a brutal beat down. In my opinion that makes a steel friendly. If I can beat up like a sk5 or a 1095 and strop it back in the field quickly, it's more useful than a blade in D2, s110v or m390 that chips or deforms. Not saying that they would, because I haven't done the research. That's why I watch your videos 🤣. I love 154cm in the field. My leatherman charge in 154cm just puts in work. I'll have to try cruwear next. I think that bentobox has some cruwear manix 2's still.
Thank you G.
Merry Christmas!
You're welcome and Merry Christmas.
Not just cruwear that’s cpm cruwear the good stuff I’d love to make a fixed blade from it
Hey there. I convinced my wife I spent 200$ on a “work tool” I’m an electrician.
I think one of the most relevant tests you can do is a copper test. Not just that maybe a couple wire stripping tests. As this is one of the many use cases that isn’t card board many guys would like to know their knives ability to do so.
Hope you see this and start with the cruwear Spyderco because that’s what I’ve got coming in the mail soon. Take care keep up the good work.
I'll see what I can do to cover that. Maybe a multiple knife video against copper. I have many of the ones I've already done this type of test on.
@@Outpost_76 I recommend going to your local Home Depot. They sell big wire by the foot usually 3 or 4$ per foot you can get a 2 foot 1/0 piece of copper insulated wire for around 10$
Then strip about a half inch of the insulation and you’ll have lots of test material left over. The reason I say this is because it’s nearly impossible to avoid digging into copper as you strip it plus copper looks cool on camera and actually can be cut by a good steel.
I always see tests that would never really happen in day to day use and so I understand I’m just one person but I know alotttt of guys in the trades that carry and use their knives much harder than even a camper or survivalist. Granted a survivalist might use it to chop wood but construction guys use it harder over a longer period of time I bet. And probably make up a huge market share.
Just my 2 🪙 PEACE! ✌🏽
I have a knkfecenter exclusive cruwear manic I completely pimped with titanium scales, ti blue hardware, ti blue milled pocket clip, glow in the dark blue backspacer and a blue to ball cage. it also has a glow in the dark paracord lanyard with glow in the dark carbon fiber bead. it takes an insane biting edge easily, is super tough and polishes easily. it's putting s35vn to shame in use. if you don't need stainless it's a no brainer imo. I having had any rust living in s.c either on the cru...maybe cuz I'm more careful I don't know
Great video man, Cru wear and xhp are amazing steels hopefully we get more cru wear thats easily attainable ha
Benchmade has the Adamas and mini coming in Cruwear as regular production. It's one I'm definitely going to test.
@@Outpost_76 looking forward to it, hoping for good things.
You did a great job testing the steel .You just got a new sub great video.
Thank you
Wish this was a regular offering steel. I initially doubted the usefulness of having cruwear on a small knife like a delica or para 3, but I guess it's great for "real world" use, where you may hit a staple or something. Do you have a preferred Golden model?
Benchmade is stepping up and the Adamas and mini will both be in Cruwear. I'm not sure on a large scale they will consistently hit the 63-65 hrc they are advertising but I'm definitely going to get one to test. As far as Golden Spyderco models the Manix easily takes that spot. I also enjoy the Para 3 but it's always going to be a second to the Manix.
@@Outpost_76 didn't know about Benchmade in CruWear, where can I pick up more information?
Which steel do you think is generally tougher cruwear or 4V? Because from what I understand hardness doesn't necessarily translate to toughness and wear resistance is different from impact resistance. So based on what I gathered so far a steel like maxamet that has a very high hardness I.E. 65-67 hrc also has a weakness in that it can become more susceptible to fracturing or chipping. So based on this information I've avoided maxamet and 10V so far and chose 4V for my hard use application's. Do you think I'm on the right track or would cruwear be a better option? Very curious to hear what you think. Thanks!!
Cruwear is slightly tougher than 4v with about the same edge retention. Cruwear is probably easier to strop and sharpen, but I'm just guessing.
Thanks for the review. I have a Shaman and Military in Cruwear, and I have been happy with both of them. I have also been using Rex45 and like it. I haven’t tried K390. I think that will be my next one. Out of those three which do you prefer?
Cruwear and K390 are pretty close for me in which I like more. Cruwear I like for its wide versatility and K390 from Seki and in customs/small batch heat treating I like for it's great wear resistance. Out of those 3 I'd order them Cruwear at the top, K390 then Rex 45. I still can't warm up to Rex so I'll be doing more testing and carry time to see if I come around to it. Golden K390 I'm going to do a video on this week and talk about it, K390 from Seki and Golden are quite different from my use and testing.
@@Outpost_76 Thanks so much and looking forward to the coming videos.
That spot from the sweating...is that permamnent? I live in South Florida and I only have a Para 3 but I am seriously considering the purple cruwear pm2. Would you recommend the Cruwear over S45VN even in Florida? Would a normal leather strop work for this steel? What compound would you recommend with the strop? Is this more desireable over S45VN? If I keep it oiled will it not pit like that one spot from the sweat?
That spot wiped off with my finger. The only benefit S45VN would have over Cruwear is corrosion resistance. Cruwear is pretty good at not staining easily and you would have to leave any spotting on it for it to pit. I personally prefer Cruwear due to the increased wear resistance, better edge stability and impact resistance. It's also much tougher than S45VN. My pick would be Cruwear and the example I have for testing from the new Dlt run is at a good hardness. For the price it's worth picking up the Dlt Cruwear PM2.
Living in an occasionally humid part of California, my k390 knife got rust spots over the last three months sitting with a coat of rem oil. Cruwear didn’t show any signs of corrosion through it was used frequently and barely oiled. I don’t know if too much oil causes rusting. A2 is not okay here either. Interestingly, 3v is not a problem here. Even on the one blade kept in its leather sheath for over a year
Consider what role you want for the pm2. It’s got a delicate tip which I wouldn’t trust in a stainless steel as my only knife. But living in a very humid environment, I wouldn’t spend big money unless it’s stainless
@@yogipony9016 FYI - Rem Oil did not prevent rust very well in some test I ran, Frog Lube, Eezox, Break Free Collector and others did WAY better!
2 questions to start, before I forget them. 1. Why does your Manix have the scales from s90/154? You did not like the steel? 2. What happened to Kurt? He and SSS have been missing for a good while.
These scales came on another Manix I picked up, I never had the 154/S90V Manix version. Kurt won't be doing any more videos due to his workload now. BJ has his machine now and Steve has been busy and I don't think he will be doing many more videos either.
@@Outpost_76 I wanted to send a couple knifes, 0392s: and a Medford Onbelay & Oberland Arms Titan Sepp (both in D2 but with black coating, I know not a true reading) to Kurt to test. Thanks for info.
Vanadis 4 Extra, is another crazy good steel, the only one, that would have resist better the damage that Cru-ware took! Another good thing about Cruware, is that it can be easily restored if it takes microrolls after use.
Try delta 3v. Much better 3v heat treatment developed by Carothers but used by another brand, Survive iirc. Carothers does some really good heat treatments on d2 and a few other steels as well. Heat treatment is over looked in a lot of knives (geometry also) but it's also more expensive the more involved it can get.
@@tacticalcenter8658 i can see a higher hrc costing slightly more money, but not alot. Alex Steingraber does higher hrc on his knife steels and no significant cost that I can see. @alexsteingraber or am I wrong?
@@tacticalcenter8658 I know Carothers knives have seen a once, but not the Delta you mentioned, I will go check it! I wish I could get my hands on these knives,but I can't get that kind of knives where I live. I deleted what I said about 3V, because other people could be offended and I don't have the time to explain that its just my opinion and my taste. I like Vanadis 4 extra more than any other tool steel I have tried. I also love handforged ballbearing steel! I go check some delta. Thanks!
@@greekveteran2715 I don't think anyone would be offended and your not completely wrong about it. But yea if you can find delta 3v, you'll probably like it more than vanadis 4e. I have a shaman in 4v a similar analog. While I don't really like the model it's still a decent tool and that 4v holds up good.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Carothers has taken 3V way further than the last time I had seen his 3V knives! Cool stuff
Holy 😂 Yaa ima need me a cruwear Manix 2
Would you recommend Cruwear over maxamet?
That depends on what the use is going to be
D2 for lyfe! Cruwear is ok too though.
I really dislike D2, even the better stuff I've found.
@@Outpost_76 I know. Just funning with you.
Could you try a simple high carbon steel on that brass fitting?
Sure,any preference on which one you would like to see?
@@Outpost_76 1075,1095 or the more rare 5160?
52100 as hard as possible..@@Outpost_76
Wood and Aluminum won't do anything at all.. Brass will cause edge roll on any type of steel.. I did edge stability test on nearly all Spyderco knife steels and its pretty much black or white!!! Either way the material is too soft and it doesn't do anything (Wood, Aluminum, Plastic) except regular edge wear or the material is too hard or too dense (steel, brass, copper) and you will notice immediately.. But yes it depends on the steel what kind of damage (Harder tool steels have advantage) Cruwear is awesome steel but on a bigger knife.. It's perhaps the most balanced steel honestly.. It doesn't rust easily, it's tough and holds very fine edge but best attribute is definitely ease of sharpening 🥰😉 Just amazing
I agree to a point, I have some interesting ones I've tested in this way coming up. I was surprised what some soft and medium hardness wood can do to some of these steels.ill get more in to those in the videos.
@@Outpost_76 Yes depends on wood too.. Dry Ebony will do about the damage as copper, equally dry oak is very hard and very dense indeed.. What I meant was fresh mediocre wood won't do much but I tried only edge stability not extensive cutting.. Dry Ebony it's like iron🙏 Thank you Gerald👍PS The aluminum is very sticky so it's more likely the aluminum residue rather than damage if you feel some.. I always use strop or cloth to take the aluminum of the edge
@@georgeyoung4292 I should post the S110V chopping oak, it chipped that like crazy. The bigger branch piece I've been using is about 2 years old now since I took it down. I may incorporate oak again, I just need to see if what I have is still good. It will be nice to see soft medium and hatd woods and how it differs. Maybe I should look in to getting a piece of a very hatd wood for lateral apex stress and see what happens with that. There is aluminum residue left and I did forget to add the Rex Shaman took micro chips so I'm curious to see if it gets any better as time goes on.
@@Outpost_76 I will send you some something.. georgeyoung0326@gmail.com🤝 It may take a while cause I'm on holiday but I'll try to get you something for testing.. Mary Christmas and Happy New Year 2021 G🙏 Let's hope it'll be better cause this year was SHITE💩
I have a PM2 "Crucarta" and I still feel my Buck 110 S30V would out perform it.
Well that’s not good
When you do the edge retention on cruwear can you show a spyderco versus shark?
I'm going to do them all at once. I may add the Adamas in Cruwear to the test if its available when I'm ready.
@@Outpost_76 Further on in the video I see where you say that. Sorry, lot of extra days and long hours at the USPS, hence asking questions for I forget them.
Just curious you sure that’s brass an not bronze. Because brass is usually soft . A lot of couplers are bronze because they need to be harder for the work they do. Really kinda surprised it rolled a edge being brass. Keep up the great work.
I did some research on these and it is indeed brass and not bronze.
HRC?
Would not M4 performed atleast as well or better? Even 3V seems to resist damage better, no?
It's very hard to make comparisons from video of course but M4 seems to be as tough as it comes for me.
I've had better luck with Cruwear over M4
@@Outpost_76 - Roger. I don't have any real experience with Cruwear. What are it's properties, strengths and weaknesses?
Cruwear has slightly better toughness but M4 has slightly better edge retention. People seem to have an easier time stropping and sharpening cruwear back up. They're both good imo, just depends on what you'd prefer. I personally like cruwear more (paramilitary 2).
Where do you get your cbn spray?
It's an emulsion and it's the Bark River cbn 16 micron. I got mine from DLT trading. It gives good coverage and lasts well before needing to reapply. It also works very well and I'm going to try the 8 micron cbn as well.
What HRC on it?
This is the one Kurt tested at 61.8 hrc.
Definitely triggers me how broken people speak these days…and it has permeated the media… dude, number of times you can strop it, not amount, number of times, amount of sugar, sand, water… but number of people and number of times… it’s that and also plural versus singular… people say “ there is many”… drives me nuts
Dude you're not supposed to chop with folders