from an engineer's stand point, the amount and type of grease are very important. but I'll mention only an example that correlates with a firearm system.In an AR15, the reason you should apply grease on the inside diameter of the end barrel and the upper receiver is to avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals, also known as cold welding. the barrel being any variant of steel and the upper being aluminum(same is true for the barrel nut and threads). A secondary benefit is the ease of removal later on how ever, now the type of grease will become relevant, you want a grease that holds its lubricity, consistency/viscosity and not cook or dry under the extreme temperature fluctuations the barrel creates at the lubricating point, you also do not want lubrication to liquify and enter the detonating chamber or run off along the barrel, and any internal excessive grease will also expand like any other material on earth when put under heat so having excessive grease will cause extreme pressures while it attempts to expand where it isn't supposed to which may cause deformation, cracks or an explosion. Simply put, you only need a dab of your favorite anti-seize on the threads and a smear a small dab along the inside of the upper where you would slide the barrel in, you should feel it, not really see it. and as mention previously, lubrication on threads will greatly alter the required torque, in other words you applied more torque than your indicated 40FT lbs BUT its no where close to the top end limit of your torque window, which is around 90 ftlbs
I always wondered if the wet torque would cause problems over the dry torque, and shouldn't I refrain from using copper cote as the copper would react with aluminum?
@@davidcorkery2697 for everything on the AR15 go ahead and use dry torque. None of the threads have resistance (or called run-on torque) to them meaning the nut always threads all the way down by hand. That means no additives are required unless specifically mentioned by that part manufacturer
Always make sure any extension put on a torque wrench is 90 degrees out. 180 lengthens the applied force changing the torque value... there is an equation you can use to get the correct torque value but its just quicker to attach extensions at 90 degrees.
The overly excess application of grease in end of receiver is likely why he had to use mallet to get barrel into receiver. Think hydrostatic pressure and it's resultant resistance
I know this video is 7 years old, but it’s awesome and helpful. After watching you apply the grease, I immediately bought 100,000 shares of Aeroshell. So as a stock holder I want to say thank you for your contributions. My only complaint is that I feel you should have used just slightly more grease. Also don’t forget to tell your friends and family! Dunking the entire upper and barrel may also help this process. This can also aid installation by dunking your hands up to your elbows in grease to achieve the desired effect. We all know there’s no better feeling then lubing her up (the upper receiver) and sliding your rod (the barrel) right in.
You went a little crazy with the grease, lol. Just a dab on the threads will do. I shot my first barrel out back in 2018 and managed to get the barrel off really easily and all I did was used a dab of some random automotive grease I had in the garage back in 2011.
To expound on what torque is, T(torque, ft/lbs) = F(force applied, lbs) x D(distance, ft). If you have a 3 ft torque wrench (D = 3 ft) and apply 10 lbs of force (F) at the handle, you have a resultant of 30 ft/lbs. The (D) measurement is from the point of force application (the handle) to the axis of rotation (the centerline of the barrel). If you EXTEND the D measurement by using a tool whose geometry INCREASES the overall length of the moment arm (measurement D), say 2 inches, you now have a D measurement of 3.16 ft (3 ft - 2 in). 3.16 ft x 10 lbs force = 31.6 ft/lbs. IF the geometry of the tool allows you to rotate the tool 90 degrees relative to the torque wrench, the D measurement is restored (shortened) to the original 3 ft. Remember the D measurement is the distance from the point of force application to the axis of rotation. The bottom line is the geometry of the wrench. Obviously, an additional 1.6 ft/lbs isn't going to hurt anything. Most torque wrenches have +/- 5% error. 5% of 30 ft/lbs is 1.5 ft/lbs. However, if the geometry of the wrench increases the moment arm by 6 inches and you are approaching the max 80 ft/lbs, its time to rotate the wrench and make sure you don't exceed the max OR do the math and set your torque wrench to 22.8 ft/lbs. Interestingly, my guess is large AR manufacturers (Colt, Armalite, Ruger etc.) probably install the barrel nut dry (I have never removed a barrel so I don't know for sure). Use of grease or other lubricant greatly decreases the coefficient of friction by design, and anyone who uses a lubricant is probably over-torquing the barrel nut :)
Dennis I’ve been doing some research, and apparently you can torque a barrel nut all the way up to around 120 ft/lbs without damage, and if you torque to 80 ft/lbs or even higher, apparently you can get slightly tighter groups out of the rifle because the barrel is more rigidly attached. Not sure how true this is, though, and I’m not really willing to ruin my new upper for science, lol
Probably the most complete install video I've seen. I use a tiny bit less Aeroshell on mine, but it is an identical process for the hundreds of builds I've done. None have ever given me any issues in thousands of rounds in most cases. I've had all of my BCM builds fit just like that and needing some heat gun use and rubber mallet tapping. Thank you for putting this video out since it indicates the exact right way to do this.
When “seasoning “the barrel. Tightening to 30 ft/lbs foot pounds and above and loosening. When that three times it’s called seasoning. The purpose is to properly distribute the grease everywhere and to loosen up the threads to a point where they are evenly constricting around the barrel when torqued the final time.
Gregg Sinini sure? Show me the video and I'll do it. You don't have to be a gunsmith to understand the basic fundamentals of applied toque. But my degree in mechanical engineering does help. Simply put it, when you add an extension or adaptor on a tq wrench, the applied tq at the end (where the barrel nut is) is different from the tq head. It's a complicated formula and can be found if you really want to look into it. However, if you put the tq wrench 90 degrees to the adaptor, the tq of the end (where the barrel nut is) will equal to the head of the tq wrench. Typical ignorant internet comment.
Gregg Sinini he’s absolutely right. Torque wrenches are not only used in gunsmithing. To apply a correct torque value when using a second wrench is 90 degrees.
Ok, so first I am also a mechanical engineer. Yes, it is true that any extension type tool on a torque wrench should be in a 90 degree orientation to give a true reading. In this case it really doesn't matter though. The barrel nut spec is 30 - 80 ft lbs. Unless you're at the extreme edge of this range any induced error is inconsequential.
Like I mentioned at a few other places, using a reaction rod to install barrel nut may not be ideal because theoretically it might break the notch holding the barrel's index pin. Using a reaction rod would distribute all the pressure on barrel extension after locking in. So it works perfectly on any work done on the barrel, e.g. installing muzzle brake. But for any work done on the receiver (like installing barrel nut), you'll still need to clamp the receiver. Otherwise the receiver will try to rotate under torque which could potentially break the index pin notch.
Ladies and gentlemen, ladies and gentlemen, thank you so much for visiting with us this evening. Now I've traveled across half our state to be here and to see about this land. Now I daresay some of you might have heard some of the more extravagant rumors about what my plans are, so I just thought you'd like to hear it from me. This is the face -- it's no great mystery. I'm an grease man, ladies and gentlemen. I have numerous concerns spread across this state. I have many wells flowing at many thousand barrels per days. I like to think of myself as an grease man. And as an grease man I hope that you'll forgive just good old-fashioned plain speaking. Now this work that we do is very much a family enterprise. I -- I work side by side with my wonderful son H.W. I think one or two of you might have met him already. I encourage my men to bring their families as well. Of course it makes for an ever so much more rewarding life for them. Family means children; children means education. So wherever we set up camp, education is a necessity, and we're just so happy to take care of that. So let's build a wonderful school in Little Boston. These children are the future that we strive for and so they should have the very best of things. Now something else, and please don't be insulted if I speak about this: bread. Let's talk about bread. Now to my mind, it's an abomination to consider that any man, woman, or child in this magnificent country of ours should have to look upon a loaf of bread as a luxury. We're going to dig water wells here. Water wells means irrigation; irrigation means cultivation. We're going to raise crops here where before it just simply was impossible. You're going to have more grain than you know what to do with. Bread will be coming right out of your ears, ma'am. New roads, agriculture, employment, education, these are just a few of the things we can offer you, and I assure you ladies and gentlemen, that if we do find grease here, and I think there's a very good chance that we will, this community of yours will not only survive, it will flourish. I'd be happy to answer any questions that you might have.
Brother, you need to keep your torque wrench and end adaptor (geissele wrench/crowfoot/extension/etc.) At 90 degrees. Anything other than 90 and you are applying a different torque than what you are setting your wrench to.
I just want to say thanks for this video, I have seen many videos on barrel installs and this has been the best one yet. This video helped me install my first barrel with the Aeroshell 33MS grease; barrel was a tight fit but with the grease it went in with ease. Had to torque the free float nut to 65 Pounds but at least i know it won't budge lol. thanks again
I just got a BCM upper receiver and the barrel will not go in so I'm going to have to put some heat to it a little Lube probably not as much as you put in and get it in there Sam says you want those tight tolerances for accuracy.
Lube will affect torque. You can overtorque things by using lube. Most manufacturers of free float handguards and subsequently their barrel nut require that you use no lube. YHM for instance requires both the nut and the receiver threads be cleaned and dried then torqued. Even in general mechanicing you will see warnings about lubing threads. Best to follow manufacturers recommendations. If they say lube the threads prior to torquing then do so. If not, do not.
I disagree with your assertion regarding the reaction rod. You are turning the nut. The nut is grabbing the threads, which are attached to the receiver. The receiver is trying to turn with the nut. The barrel is fixed in place by the reaction rod. So the pressure applied to the nut and in turn the receiver is transferred to the alignment pin of the barrel extension. Which is not great.
Is that amount of grease necessary? I'm halfway through my build and only used small amounts of gun oil. I'm still early into the build so I can redo it easily.
Man that thing is gonna smoke when hot. Maybe starts on fire? Depends on the grease. If that barrel does ever get hot, thermal expansion will put a lot of stress on the upper. Maybe causing a crack.
I'm glad its working fine but I'd still be concerned in the long run because I've never seen such a tight fit like that..there should never be a reason to have to hammer a new barrel into a new upper like that.
A tight fit is always preferred over a loose fit. 5-10 seconds with a hair dryer/torch/heat gun etc on the front of the receiver and it will open right up so any barrel will slip right in. Just make sure you align the index pin and slip the barrel all the way into the receiver before it cools. Cooling the barrel won't really make much difference as the thermal expansion/contraction of steel is so much lower than aluminum.
Yeah, I use BCM uppers just because they are machined to a tighter tolerance and 9 out of 10 times need to heated to insert the barrel extension. It makes for a more accurate gun.
you need to heat the receiver so it expands, slide the barrel in and it'll tighten up nice when it cools down. I would avoid pounding anything if i can
Don't put grease on the threads it's not needed. Leave it dry. You will over torque the barrel nut and damage the upper. A lot of scope and mount manufacturers are even moving away from using loctite because of over torque from the slippery substance. I have never had to tap a barrel into an upper receiver.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 what's the purpose of greasing it tho? The barrel nut is not gonna seize. 30-80ft/lbs is hard to believe. That's too big a gap.
Is there a reason you used the vise block initially and then switch over to the reaction rod? I'm about to swap hand guards, and therefore barrel nuts, on one of my rifles and only have a reaction rod.
Nope not an issue. A lot of builders will place the barrel in the freezer for 6 hours so it will go in. I don't know how else to tell you that it's not that uncommon.
The aluminum is sandwiched in between the steel on the barrel extension and the steel of the barrel nut. The thermal expansion and contraction is accounted for in the specs so there is no issue here whatsoever.
Why would you use a reaction rod for tightening the barrel nut? When you tighten the barrel nut, the upper receiver is what is going to want to turn. Use an upper receiver action block. You use reaction rods when removing/installing muzzle devices to keep the barrel from turning. The barrel doesnt want to turn when tightening a barrel nut, the action does.
im a little later to the party but great vid. a build done right! Ive been lapping my uppers (not needed for good parts but i just cancel all variables. I also do it by hand, no drill!)
Brake clean the barrel extension and front of the reciever. Grease the threads and the front side of the flange near the barrel logo. That's all you need.
Thats probably a tad too much than what i would use. I ordered a tin of aero grease from classic firearms. Comes in like a large shoe polish can. Grease is needed if you ever want to change out a barrel. Otherwise it will be very very difficult if not impossible to remove it without causing damage.
The way you have the barrel wrench on the torque wrench actually means you are going over 40 foot lbs. A torque wrench is calibrated at the head/drive, by having the attachment straight out like you did you are actually increasing the lever causing it to torque over what you have it set at.
Why didn't you lap, or square up, the front of the receiver where the shoulder of the barrel takes its final set or position? Maybe the process is far better known now than when this video was made. You mentioned reducing groups 1/4 MOA; I don't know of anything that is so easy to accomplish that adds more benefit.
Yes. Aeroshell is basically a lithium moly grease. You just don't want anything with graphite as that might cause issues with galvanic corrosion. You can get big tubs of the Aeroshell on Amazon even for ~$10 last I checked. If you build a lot then it is a very minimal cost.
ive built 100s of rifles and that is the THE tightest fitting barrel i have ever seen, and ive built match guns, i wonder if that barrel is out of spec, might be why you are having problems
It's the tightest I have ever experienced as well. It is not uncommon. Some people lap the inside of their upper receiver. I just opted to use a rubber mallet to assist me in the process.
Obviously you've built 100's of rifle using cheap uppers. Cause if you've ever used a BCM , Mega, and several other higher quality uppers you would have experienced these tight fits. Its made to tighter tolerances for accuracy reasons.
I think I am going to get a rod like that for my upper build. Just more piece of mind when torquing the barrel nut. I really wanted to avoid specialized tools but this thing would be useful even if I don't use it much after the build. I'm pretty sure, however, I'll go with Brownell's version for the price.
All that grease is not needed. A little anti seize on the threads is goos. Put the upper in the oven for a few minutes and that barrel should slip right in.
Dude what's up with putting so much grease! A thin coat would have been perfect. Your not packing wheel bearings bro. Plus too much grease is not a good thing either.
I did put anti seize on my threads..but nowhere as much as you used.. I have not fired the weapon yet ..should I take it apart and ad more thread anti seize ?
Yes but you are tightening to the upper. Which is free of the wrench and can move with the nut. Not saying it is a problem. I am just curious, before I invest in a reinvention of the wheel. lol
I've seen people put a bs muzzle device on the threads to be able to tap barrel in without messing up threads or crown. Never done it but seems to be a good idea
001SteveK1, You don't need the reaction rod. It does seem to work well, but the more typical and less expensive vise/action blocks also qualify as being "the right tools for the job". Gunsmiths and hobbyist alike have been using these successfully for decades to perform barrel installations.
Never hit it with a hammer. If it is too tight , it's not MIL SPEC. However for tight tolerances just put the receiver in the freezer for a few hours , and warm up the barrel to 200°F max and it will slide right in. Do use anti seize grease.
Justin M Do not use Barrel Shims. There is a correct way to do this type of thing and it's not here . Do your self a favor find someone who has been through the Colt Armorers School to help you out . Maybe even one of the local cops if you get along with them.
My Name Having reviewed the Geissele Mk3 rail install procedure I do not see an issue with this install. It appears he installed it correctly and per spec d3cfki0l5o2ps6.cloudfront.net/media/files/Installation_Instructions_SMR_MK3_Rev1_6.pdf
I agree with something being out of spec, that barrel extension should have slid on with little effort. You should NEVER have to pound a receiver onto the barrel, how will you ever get it back off? I bought a receiver honing bar a while back. It trues both the receiver well and the barrel nut threads and smooths out the extension hole, making everything concentric to the bore. I've seen videos of some threads off by up to 30°, canting the barrel. The hone will square up the threads and hone the receiver at the same time (a little goes a long way!). I like the Geissele barrel nut and action tool.
love the channel. anyway you could direct me to your pistol build parts list. I want to do a similar build like yours using 10.5 inch barrel and a free float m lok rail with a comp similar to yours..keeping it as short as I can and as clean looking.
go7roo7 In all my experience, I have never seen a manual instructing the user to NOT apply grease to the threads. It is very important to do so. It not only makes for easier installation, but makes sure there will be no corrosion (if the correct grease is used).
sryctex1 .... You have a point....OMG..any "builder" that would freeze a barrel to join to the receiver is not taking into consideration the high heat factor that will take place during the firing of the weapon and the expansion.... I'm just saying
love your channel but have a question so I'm doing a build and can't seem to pick between 3 barrels Rainier Arms, wilson combat, and Noveske what would you prefer? going with 18" barrel and sbr build. please anything would help thanks man appreciate it.
I would heat the upper receiver it gets hot when you're shooting anyway let it cool down then apply Grease barrel nut I do however light coat of grease on Barrel extension
I hope to do my first AR build this summer. Do you have a video covering the basic tools needed and tools that would be nice to have? I would find a video like that invaluable.
I hope to get my pilots license this year. I am in the process of launching a website related to aviation. I have a number of family members that are in the aviation industry. From mechanics to professional pilots. I am saving up for some camera equipment to do video of different aircraft starting this summer. Alot of the aircraft, that I will shoot, would be Antique and Warbird. I don't want to say too much because what I have planned is something unique. I am in Scott County. In the future when I get more organized maybe we could do a collaboration of some sort.
Nate...would it be fine if I just used Aeroshell 33? I have a big tube of it and don't really think it's necessary to go buy 33ms unless the 33 isn't good enough.?
"AeroShell Grease 33MS (Grease 64) is an extreme pressure (EP) grease based on the proven lithium complex technology of AeroShell Grease 33, and is fortified with 5% Molybdenum Disulphide." I do not think AeroShell 33 has Moly in it which is what you need. You can pick up a small amount for pretty cheap from my buddy Devin at www.reapertactical.com - tell him I sent ya. Hope this helps!
nsz85 dang.. I figured it'd be fine. I have a huge tube of it already. I tried ordering 3 small caps from reapertactical but decided to use eBay, I wasn't going to pay $14 for shipping on $7 worth of grease...
great video . just wondering for my build I used aeroshell but only torqued to 30 once and my wrench broke Chinese armours wrench lol should I be worried about anything or should that be alright for it not backing out
Hey I have a question, since everyone is talking about grease.. did a lot of searching but cant find a definite answer. On my Ar builds I just used gunslick lube on the threads when installing the barrel nut, I am assuming its just like any other gun oil. I did order some aeroshell but I am wondering if I should take all my rifles apart and use it? Or will they be fine how they are? Is the only concern not being able to get the barrel but off, or will it do some other kind of damage?
Jonathan Smith You will be ok. The mil-spec grease helps to get the correct torque rating on the barrel nut. You can read more by looking up armorers manual ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P page 0015-14
When using a crow's foot wrench on a torque wrench, the crows foot is ALWAYS kept at 90 degrees! You just torqued that nut to 40, 1 foot 3 inches pounds... about 47ftlbs...
As a shareholder for Aero shell . I appreciate this video and I wish everybody would use at least 1 10 oz tube per upper. Carry on and shoot straight.
It’s been 100 years since this video, story goes this rifle is still greased.
It looks like when you bought an sks in the 70s full of cosmalean
Haha
I can’t stop laughing watching him grease everything
a tip : watch series at flixzone. Been using them for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@Dakota Jad yup, I have been watching on Flixzone} for since november myself :)
The barrel would have gone in much more easily if he would have used some grease.
I agree
Or a thermal fit
🤣🤣🤣🤣
hahahahahah
Lmao 🤣
I operate a grease factory, I would like to partner with you.
I have a fever! And the only prescription is more aeroshell!
from an engineer's stand point, the amount and type of grease are very important. but I'll mention only an example that correlates with a firearm system.In an AR15, the reason you should apply grease on the inside diameter of the end barrel and the upper receiver is to avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals, also known as cold welding. the barrel being any variant of steel and the upper being aluminum(same is true for the barrel nut and threads). A secondary benefit is the ease of removal later on how ever, now the type of grease will become relevant, you want a grease that holds its lubricity, consistency/viscosity and not cook or dry under the extreme temperature fluctuations the barrel creates at the lubricating point, you also do not want lubrication to liquify and enter the detonating chamber or run off along the barrel, and any internal excessive grease will also expand like any other material on earth when put under heat so having excessive grease will cause extreme pressures while it attempts to expand where it isn't supposed to which may cause deformation, cracks or an explosion.
Simply put, you only need a dab of your favorite anti-seize on the threads and a smear a small dab along the inside of the upper where you would slide the barrel in, you should feel it, not really see it. and as mention previously, lubrication on threads will greatly alter the required torque, in other words you applied more torque than your indicated 40FT lbs BUT its no where close to the top end limit of your torque window, which is around 90 ftlbs
id be surprised if u could reach 90ft/lbs at a 90 degree angle, at that point ur bending something
I always wondered if the wet torque would cause problems over the dry torque, and shouldn't I refrain from using copper cote as the copper would react with aluminum?
@@davidcorkery2697 for everything on the AR15 go ahead and use dry torque. None of the threads have resistance (or called run-on torque) to them meaning the nut always threads all the way down by hand. That means no additives are required unless specifically mentioned by that part manufacturer
Cold welding only happens with identical metals. Dissimilar metals suffer from “galvanic” corrosion.
@@Pistonstrokes can I use just a normal wrench for installing stuff on an ar15 or do I need a torque wrench ?
Aeroshell is also good for your hair, and I even put a little bit in my coffee in the morning. Thanks for the video.
steve harvey Also for use as a skin lotion.
Also makes great 🍆 lube
We should start a cookbook with aeroshell recipes.
Always make sure any extension put on a torque wrench is 90 degrees out. 180 lengthens the applied force changing the torque value... there is an equation you can use to get the correct torque value but its just quicker to attach extensions at 90 degrees.
is it me, or is that WAYYYY too much grease???!!!!! holy moly!!!
A little or a lot. It doesn't matter as long as it's on there ;)
Cody H - same way I do it. And you dont need some uber expensive grease for the threads either 🙄
I’m gonna buy stock in this grease....
it actually does if you actually shoot the gun and dont want a bunch of toxic gas released
The overly excess application of grease in end of receiver is likely why he had to use mallet to get barrel into receiver. Think hydrostatic pressure and it's resultant resistance
I know this video is 7 years old, but it’s awesome and helpful. After watching you apply the grease, I immediately bought 100,000 shares of Aeroshell. So as a stock holder I want to say thank you for your contributions. My only complaint is that I feel you should have used just slightly more grease. Also don’t forget to tell your friends and family! Dunking the entire upper and barrel may also help this process. This can also aid installation by dunking your hands up to your elbows in grease to achieve the desired effect.
We all know there’s no better feeling then lubing her up (the upper receiver) and sliding your rod (the barrel) right in.
You went a little crazy with the grease, lol. Just a dab on the threads will do. I shot my first barrel out back in 2018 and managed to get the barrel off really easily and all I did was used a dab of some random automotive grease I had in the garage back in 2011.
To expound on what torque is, T(torque, ft/lbs) = F(force applied, lbs) x D(distance, ft). If you have a 3 ft torque wrench (D = 3 ft) and apply 10 lbs of force (F) at the handle, you have a resultant of 30 ft/lbs. The (D) measurement is from the point of force application (the handle) to the axis of rotation (the centerline of the barrel). If you EXTEND the D measurement by using a tool whose geometry INCREASES the overall length of the moment arm (measurement D), say 2 inches, you now have a D measurement of 3.16 ft (3 ft - 2 in). 3.16 ft x 10 lbs force = 31.6 ft/lbs. IF the geometry of the tool allows you to rotate the tool 90 degrees relative to the torque wrench, the D measurement is restored (shortened) to the original 3 ft. Remember the D measurement is the distance from the point of force application to the axis of rotation. The bottom line is the geometry of the wrench. Obviously, an additional 1.6 ft/lbs isn't going to hurt anything. Most torque wrenches have +/- 5% error. 5% of 30 ft/lbs is 1.5 ft/lbs. However, if the geometry of the wrench increases the moment arm by 6 inches and you are approaching the max 80 ft/lbs, its time to rotate the wrench and make sure you don't exceed the max OR do the math and set your torque wrench to 22.8 ft/lbs.
Interestingly, my guess is large AR manufacturers (Colt, Armalite, Ruger etc.) probably install the barrel nut dry (I have never removed a barrel so I don't know for sure). Use of grease or other lubricant greatly decreases the coefficient of friction by design, and anyone who uses a lubricant is probably over-torquing the barrel nut :)
Dennis I’ve been doing some research, and apparently you can torque a barrel nut all the way up to around 120 ft/lbs without damage, and if you torque to 80 ft/lbs or even higher, apparently you can get slightly tighter groups out of the rifle because the barrel is more rigidly attached. Not sure how true this is, though, and I’m not really willing to ruin my new upper for science, lol
Considering the torque specs are based on using threads greased with 33MS, I don’t think it’s making anyone over torque anything.
Thank you
Probably the most complete install video I've seen. I use a tiny bit less Aeroshell on mine, but it is an identical process for the hundreds of builds I've done. None have ever given me any issues in thousands of rounds in most cases. I've had all of my BCM builds fit just like that and needing some heat gun use and rubber mallet tapping. Thank you for putting this video out since it indicates the exact right way to do this.
NO 2. My truck holds 6 qts of oil but I could put 15 qts in it!!! You could do 20 rifle barrels with that amount of grease!!!!!
When “seasoning “the barrel. Tightening to 30 ft/lbs foot pounds and above and loosening. When that three times it’s called seasoning. The purpose is to properly distribute the grease everywhere and to loosen up the threads to a point where they are evenly constricting around the barrel when torqued the final time.
FYI- the proper way to use the tq wrench is to have it 90 degrees to the barrel nut tool only then will it be a true tq measurement.
Gregg Sinini sure? Show me the video and I'll do it. You don't have to be a gunsmith to understand the basic fundamentals of applied toque. But my degree in mechanical engineering does help. Simply put it, when you add an extension or adaptor on a tq wrench, the applied tq at the end (where the barrel nut is) is different from the tq head. It's a complicated formula and can be found if you really want to look into it. However, if you put the tq wrench 90 degrees to the adaptor, the tq of the end (where the barrel nut is) will equal to the head of the tq wrench.
Typical ignorant internet comment.
Gregg, hes right. If you extend the torque wrench, its more leverage. The torque applied is different at the barrel nut vs the torque wrench...
Gregg Sinini he’s absolutely right. Torque wrenches are not only used in gunsmithing. To apply a correct torque value when using a second wrench is 90 degrees.
Ok, so first I am also a mechanical engineer. Yes, it is true that any extension type tool on a torque wrench should be in a 90 degree orientation to give a true reading. In this case it really doesn't matter though. The barrel nut spec is 30 - 80 ft lbs. Unless you're at the extreme edge of this range any induced error is inconsequential.
Suddenly everyone's a mechanical engineer.
Like I mentioned at a few other places, using a reaction rod to install barrel nut may not be ideal because theoretically it might break the notch holding the barrel's index pin. Using a reaction rod would distribute all the pressure on barrel extension after locking in. So it works perfectly on any work done on the barrel, e.g. installing muzzle brake. But for any work done on the receiver (like installing barrel nut), you'll still need to clamp the receiver. Otherwise the receiver will try to rotate under torque which could potentially break the index pin notch.
Midwest Industries reaction rod has a sail to prevent the upper from rotating
So does the real avid one
Ladies and gentlemen, ladies and gentlemen, thank you so much for visiting with us this evening. Now I've traveled across half our state to be here and to see about this land. Now I daresay some of you might have heard some of the more extravagant rumors about what my plans are, so I just thought you'd like to hear it from me. This is the face -- it's no great mystery.
I'm an grease man, ladies and gentlemen. I have numerous concerns spread across this state. I have many wells flowing at many thousand barrels per days. I like to think of myself as an grease man. And as an grease man I hope that you'll forgive just good old-fashioned plain speaking. Now this work that we do is very much a family enterprise. I -- I work side by side with my wonderful son H.W. I think one or two of you might have met him already. I encourage my men to bring their families as well. Of course it makes for an ever so much more rewarding life for them. Family means children; children means education. So wherever we set up camp, education is a necessity, and we're just so happy to take care of that. So let's build a wonderful school in Little Boston. These children are the future that we strive for and so they should have the very best of things.
Now something else, and please don't be insulted if I speak about this: bread. Let's talk about bread. Now to my mind, it's an abomination to consider that any man, woman, or child in this magnificent country of ours should have to look upon a loaf of bread as a luxury. We're going to dig water wells here. Water wells means irrigation; irrigation means cultivation. We're going to raise crops here where before it just simply was impossible. You're going to have more grain than you know what to do with. Bread will be coming right out of your ears, ma'am.
New roads, agriculture, employment, education, these are just a few of the things we can offer you, and I assure you ladies and gentlemen, that if we do find grease here, and I think there's a very good chance that we will, this community of yours will not only survive, it will flourish.
I'd be happy to answer any questions that you might have.
I drink your grease shake! I drink it all up!
@@victormartinez-diaz6127 im done now.
Brother, you need to keep your torque wrench and end adaptor (geissele wrench/crowfoot/extension/etc.) At 90 degrees. Anything other than 90 and you are applying a different torque than what you are setting your wrench to.
I've helped lots of friends complete their ARs.. no need for all that grease- barrel nut and some torque is all that's required.
If you ever have a barrel that tight again, throw it in the freezer for a hour or so before fitting. It helps.
You sure seem to love that grease!
Which is why I use it.
Does that upper come with grease fittings?....
Holy sh1t... Are you repacking axle bearings???
I just want to say thanks for this video, I have seen many videos on barrel installs and this has been the best one yet. This video helped me install my first barrel with the Aeroshell 33MS grease; barrel was a tight fit but with the grease it went in with ease. Had to torque the free float nut to 65 Pounds but at least i know it won't budge lol. thanks again
Jonathan Rodriguez You are very welcome :)
I just got a BCM upper receiver and the barrel will not go in so I'm going to have to put some heat to it a little Lube probably not as much as you put in and get it in there Sam says you want those tight tolerances for accuracy.
K.y. jelly.....heat it up in the microwave....works like a wet dream
the time lapse jump cut when he first starts greasing this cracks me up
Easily my favorite channel on UA-cam, plz keep the videos coming
Haha, thanks! I have more coming, no worries :)
Lube will affect torque. You can overtorque things by using lube. Most manufacturers of free float handguards and subsequently their barrel nut require that you use no lube. YHM for instance requires both the nut and the receiver threads be cleaned and dried then torqued. Even in general mechanicing you will see warnings about lubing threads. Best to follow manufacturers recommendations. If they say lube the threads prior to torquing then do so. If not, do not.
sometimes I just watch this for the laughs
I disagree with your assertion regarding the reaction rod. You are turning the nut. The nut is grabbing the threads, which are attached to the receiver. The receiver is trying to turn with the nut. The barrel is fixed in place by the reaction rod. So the pressure applied to the nut and in turn the receiver is transferred to the alignment pin of the barrel extension. Which is not great.
Great Gobs of Grease! Great video man
This event led to the great Aeroshell 33MS shortage of 2015… it was so catastrophic, they started calling it “Aeroshell 64”…
Is that amount of grease necessary? I'm halfway through my build and only used small amounts of gun oil. I'm still early into the build so I can redo it easily.
Where can I buy a gallon of that aeroshell? I have three barrels to install this weekend.
Greaseaholic alert! This is what happens when your Dad doesn't teach you how to apply the proper amount of grease on threads. 😂
Man that thing is gonna smoke when hot. Maybe starts on fire? Depends on the grease. If that barrel does ever get hot, thermal expansion will put a lot of stress on the upper. Maybe causing a crack.
I'm glad its working fine but I'd still be concerned in the long run because I've never seen such a tight fit like that..there should never be a reason to have to hammer a new barrel into a new upper like that.
It happens all the time. What exactly would your concerns be?
A tight fit is always preferred over a loose fit.
5-10 seconds with a hair dryer/torch/heat gun etc on the front of the receiver and it will open right up so any barrel will slip right in.
Just make sure you align the index pin and slip the barrel all the way into the receiver before it cools.
Cooling the barrel won't really make much difference as the thermal expansion/contraction of steel is so much lower than aluminum.
"Super" Srvctek1 hahaha
Yeah, I use BCM uppers just because they are machined to a tighter tolerance and 9 out of 10 times need to heated to insert the barrel extension. It makes for a more accurate gun.
I have to heat most of my uppers because of the tight fit, I use a heat gun. I do not buy crap uppers or barrels that slop into place.
Appreciate the reaction rod introduction... I now have one on the way.
you need to heat the receiver so it expands, slide the barrel in and it'll tighten up nice when it cools down. I would avoid pounding anything if i can
You could also put the barrel on ice.
Good.... how about a little grease on the front flat of that barrel ring where the nut pushes hard on it?
Only man that has aeroshell as a scheduled reoccurring purchase.
Is the tool for the barrel nut placed at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench or at a straight angle to get the right torque?
Don't put grease on the threads it's not needed. Leave it dry. You will over torque the barrel nut and damage the upper. A lot of scope and mount manufacturers are even moving away from using loctite because of over torque from the slippery substance. I have never had to tap a barrel into an upper receiver.
The torque spec is literally 30 to 80 ft/lb and every single manufacturer or military armorer manual advises to grease the barrel threads.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 what's the purpose of greasing it tho? The barrel nut is not gonna seize. 30-80ft/lbs is hard to believe. That's too big a gap.
@@vegasranger To prevent galling from dissimilar metals mostly and also to reduce friction of the fasteners.
Hair dryer or heat gun the thread portion of the receiver. The heat will expand it enough to slide the barrel extension into the receiver.
Is there a reason you used the vise block initially and then switch over to the reaction rod? I'm about to swap hand guards, and therefore barrel nuts, on one of my rifles and only have a reaction rod.
My concern is the upper receiver cracking from the expansion and contraction of the barrel heating and cooling.
Nope not an issue. A lot of builders will place the barrel in the freezer for 6 hours so it will go in. I don't know how else to tell you that it's not that uncommon.
Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel. As it heats up it is actually getting looser.
The aluminum is sandwiched in between the steel on the barrel extension and the steel of the barrel nut. The thermal expansion and contraction is accounted for in the specs so there is no issue here whatsoever.
I can’t stop laughing damn that’s 15$ in lube now days
Why would you use a reaction rod for tightening the barrel nut? When you tighten the barrel nut, the upper receiver is what is going to want to turn. Use an upper receiver action block. You use reaction rods when removing/installing muzzle devices to keep the barrel from turning. The barrel doesnt want to turn when tightening a barrel nut, the action does.
That may be the case with the Geissele but all of Midwest Ind., Wheeler, and Real Avid rods prevent the upper receiver from rotating too.
im a little later to the party but great vid. a build done right! Ive been lapping my uppers (not needed for good parts but i just cancel all variables. I also do it by hand, no drill!)
Brake clean the barrel extension and front of the reciever. Grease the threads and the front side of the flange near the barrel logo. That's all you need.
Thats probably a tad too much than what i would use. I ordered a tin of aero grease from classic firearms. Comes in like a large shoe polish can. Grease is needed if you ever want to change out a barrel. Otherwise it will be very very difficult if not impossible to remove it without causing damage.
The way you have the barrel wrench on the torque wrench actually means you are going over 40 foot lbs. A torque wrench is calibrated at the head/drive, by having the attachment straight out like you did you are actually increasing the lever causing it to torque over what you have it set at.
Correct. However, due to the fact that a barrel nut can be torqued to 80ft/lbs+ it was not a concern for me. YMMV.
Why didn't you lap, or square up, the front of the receiver where the shoulder of the barrel takes its final set or position? Maybe the process is far better known now than when this video was made. You mentioned reducing groups 1/4 MOA; I don't know of anything that is so easy to accomplish that adds more benefit.
Receiver lapping is snake oil voodoo.
Why Aero shell and not any other type of grease?
That’s what the military armorer manuals specify.
Colt factory uses MolyKote G-N Metal Assembly Paste.
He used the grease to grease the grease!
Would high temp lithium grease work on the threads? Wal-Mart has that stuff.
Yes. Aeroshell is basically a lithium moly grease. You just don't want anything with graphite as that might cause issues with galvanic corrosion. You can get big tubs of the Aeroshell on Amazon even for ~$10 last I checked. If you build a lot then it is a very minimal cost.
ive built 100s of rifles and that is the THE tightest fitting barrel i have ever seen, and ive built match guns, i wonder if that barrel is out of spec, might be why you are having problems
It's the tightest I have ever experienced as well. It is not uncommon. Some people lap the inside of their upper receiver. I just opted to use a rubber mallet to assist me in the process.
nsz85 you get it working right yet? i havent tested mine yet, just finished it
Put more grease on it...LOL
Obviously you've built 100's of rifle using cheap uppers. Cause if you've ever used a BCM , Mega, and several other higher quality uppers you would have experienced these tight fits. Its made to tighter tolerances for accuracy reasons.
Thank you for a great video. Just what I was looking for using different blocks for the upper receiver and barrel.
I think I am going to get a rod like that for my upper build. Just more piece of mind when torquing the barrel nut. I really wanted to avoid specialized tools but this thing would be useful even if I don't use it much after the build. I'm pretty sure, however, I'll go with Brownell's version for the price.
All that grease is not needed. A little anti seize on the threads is goos. Put the upper in the oven for a few minutes and that barrel should slip right in.
Put the barrel nut/adapter wrench at 90 degrees to the torque wrench for accurate torque.
Dude what's up with putting so much grease! A thin coat would have been perfect. Your not packing wheel bearings bro. Plus too much grease is not a good thing either.
Heat the end of the upper receiver and the barrel will slip right in.
It without grease 🚀✨🚀✨🚀
I did put anti seize on my threads..but nowhere as much as you used.. I have not fired the weapon yet ..should I take it apart and ad more thread anti seize ?
In my experience most barrels don’t have a barrel but that needs indexing. Thank god.
Why? Indexing a mil spec barrel nut is not that hard..
Have you noticed any deformation of the upper index pin slot? All the torque goes on that little pin.
Shouldn't be, the should be a face in the nut that is capturing the barrel,
Yes but you are tightening to the upper. Which is free of the wrench and can move with the nut. Not saying it is a problem. I am just curious, before I invest in a reinvention of the wheel. lol
Aeroshell 64 is a replacement for the 33
I've seen people put a bs muzzle device on the threads to be able to tap barrel in without messing up threads or crown. Never done it but seems to be a good idea
Those specialized tools really jack up the cost of the installation!
I believe in always having the right tools for the job.
001SteveK1, You don't need the reaction rod. It does seem to work well, but the more typical and less expensive vise/action blocks also qualify as being "the right tools for the job". Gunsmiths and hobbyist alike have been using these successfully for decades to perform barrel installations.
That proprietary barrel nut wrench is only around 8 dollars. Not exactly breaking the bank
Never hit it with a hammer. If it is too tight , it's not MIL SPEC. However for tight tolerances just put the receiver in the freezer for a few hours , and warm up the barrel to 200°F max and it will slide right in. Do use anti seize grease.
Your backwards
What do you think of barrel nut shims? Like the ones they sell on eBay? Gimmick?
Justin M No. I have used them and they work.
What is their true purpose? Would I be better using one on my build or passing on one?
Justin M You only need them if you require their use. They are used for proper timing of the barrel nut.
Justin M Do not use Barrel Shims. There is a correct way to do this type of thing and it's not here . Do your self a favor find someone who has been through the Colt Armorers School to help you out . Maybe even one of the local cops if you get along with them.
My Name Having reviewed the Geissele Mk3 rail install procedure I do not see an issue with this install. It appears he installed it correctly and per spec d3cfki0l5o2ps6.cloudfront.net/media/files/Installation_Instructions_SMR_MK3_Rev1_6.pdf
I agree with something being out of spec, that barrel extension should have slid on with little effort. You should NEVER have to pound a receiver onto the barrel, how will you ever get it back off? I bought a receiver honing bar a while back. It trues both the receiver well and the barrel nut threads and smooths out the extension hole, making everything concentric to the bore. I've seen videos of some threads off by up to 30°, canting the barrel. The hone will square up the threads and hone the receiver at the same time (a little goes a long way!). I like the Geissele barrel nut and action tool.
love the channel. anyway you could direct me to your pistol build parts list. I want to do a similar build like yours using 10.5 inch barrel and a free float m lok rail with a comp similar to yours..keeping it as short as I can and as clean looking.
DAMN IT the manual I used said to NOT add any lube or grease to the barrel threads or barrel channel during install. YAY galvanization!
***** Please tell me where you work so I can be sure to never purchase any firearms from it.
go7roo7 In all my experience, I have never seen a manual instructing the user to NOT apply grease to the threads. It is very important to do so. It not only makes for easier installation, but makes sure there will be no corrosion (if the correct grease is used).
***** ...barrel threads should be greased so that if the barrel needs removed, it can be heated without seizing
sryctex1 .... You have a point....OMG..any "builder" that would freeze a barrel to join to the receiver is not
taking into consideration the high heat factor that will take place during the firing of the weapon
and the expansion.... I'm just saying
+nsz85 it was several online build tutorials most of them said not to use grease but to do 3 way torque install.
Aeroshell grease I used a ton of it in the Navy. Come to think about it I never had dry hands.
Lol did you dip the upper into the container
33MS! No way! haha, I've never seen this used outside of work. Good stuff :)
+vettelover2009 I do indeed.
We build landing gear for sikorsky, use Aeroshell 33, and many others
The whole point of seasoning the threads is defeated when you use that much grease.
I always come back this video when I need to borrow some grease.
Wow that grease worked way better than heating up the upper receiver. Who knew ..
Enough grease to lube a moose!
There is so much wrong info in this video.
Good thing the AR platform is forgiving and has wide tolerances.
love your channel but have a question so I'm doing a build and can't seem to pick between 3 barrels Rainier Arms, wilson combat, and Noveske what would you prefer? going with 18" barrel and sbr build. please anything would help thanks man appreciate it.
I would heat the upper receiver it gets hot when you're shooting anyway let it cool down then apply Grease barrel nut I do however light coat of grease on
Barrel extension
A little grease on the pressure side of the rim would have been nice. All pressure surfaces should be lubed to get a true torque reading.
CHEERS
Do you need a torque wrench for installing stuff with threads on an ar15 ? Or can I just use a normal wrench till it’s tight ?
I hope to do my first AR build this summer. Do you have a video covering the basic tools needed and tools that would be nice to have? I would find a video like that invaluable.
If you look at my article series at The Arms Guide, I have everything covered as far as tools needed. Just search ar-15 at www.thearmsguide.com
I will look it when I get closer to building...
I am in MN as well. I am assuming you are as well judging by your username. Do you ever take passengers? :)
I hope to get my pilots license this year. I am in the process of launching a website related to aviation. I have a number of family members that are in the aviation industry. From mechanics to professional pilots. I am saving up for some camera equipment to do video of different aircraft starting this summer. Alot of the aircraft, that I will shoot, would be Antique and Warbird. I don't want to say too much because what I have planned is something unique. I am in Scott County. In the future when I get more organized maybe we could do a collaboration of some sort.
Sure! Keep in touch :)
Nate...would it be fine if I just used Aeroshell 33? I have a big tube of it and don't really think it's necessary to go buy 33ms unless the 33 isn't good enough.?
"AeroShell Grease 33MS (Grease 64) is an extreme pressure (EP) grease based on the proven lithium complex technology of AeroShell Grease 33, and is fortified with 5% Molybdenum Disulphide." I do not think AeroShell 33 has Moly in it which is what you need. You can pick up a small amount for pretty cheap from my buddy Devin at www.reapertactical.com - tell him I sent ya. Hope this helps!
nsz85 dang.. I figured it'd be fine. I have a huge tube of it already. I tried ordering 3 small caps from reapertactical but decided to use eBay, I wasn't going to pay $14 for shipping on $7 worth of grease...
Put your barrel in the freezer if it's a tight fit.Then it will side in easy.
+Lucky-Rowe Or do what I did and smack it.
Or just use a heat gun on upper. Its easier to expand the aluminum than to contract the steel in a freezer.
No , heat the barrel to shrink it. Freeze the receiver to expand it. If you freeze the barrel it will expand and you will never get it in
great video . just wondering for my build I used aeroshell but only torqued to 30 once and my wrench broke Chinese armours wrench lol should I be worried about anything or should that be alright for it not backing out
How did that hold up?😁
Hey I have a question, since everyone is talking about grease.. did a lot of searching but cant find a definite answer. On my Ar builds I just used gunslick lube on the threads when installing the barrel nut, I am assuming its just like any other gun oil. I did order some aeroshell but I am wondering if I should take all my rifles apart and use it? Or will they be fine how they are? Is the only concern not being able to get the barrel but off, or will it do some other kind of damage?
Jonathan Smith You will be ok. The mil-spec grease helps to get the correct torque rating on the barrel nut. You can read more by looking up armorers manual ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P page 0015-14
maybe a dumb question, but doe the barrel nut come with the barrel, the hand guard or is it a separate purchase?
"season's the threads a bit"........aka stretches and weakens them
That is some overkill on the grease, I'm guessing you get a commission on the grease bought from your buddy if they mention your name.
to all of you complaining about how much Aeroshell he used STHU I want to go invest before this gun is finished. said with much love
When using a crow's foot wrench on a torque wrench, the crows foot is ALWAYS kept at 90 degrees! You just torqued that nut to 40, 1 foot 3 inches pounds... about 47ftlbs...
Torque spec for barrel nuts: 30-80 ft/lbs
It’s fine.
You can put the barrel in your freezer to get it to go in easier.
If you haven't heard the story of Rainer Arm's CEO you should try to find the podcast on Itunes, Its amazing.
I have met John personally. He is 100% genuine and deserves all of the success he has. He is very nice.
I heat up my receiver a little bit no pounding on receiver 😂😂😂 buy a little torch or heat gun take 20 sec.
9 years later, that gun is still oozing grease out of different orifices. 🤣
what lubrication can I use for the trigger and barrel your link doesn't work anymore