NOTE: In the video you will see I was using the low profile 30amp fuse which was admittedly conservative but I thought it would be enough. It ended up popping on me so I switched over to a normal 40 Amp and haven't had problems so I would recommend that for yours as well. I also moved the power wires to just inside the fuse box those two size 10 nuts for a cleaner look.
@JefesChopShop it's a bit of a hassle but with electrical it's better to be safe than sorry so I'd recommend replacing with higher rated wire. Otherwise you shift the problem from popping fuses to melting wires and you'd have to re do anyway. Thanks for reaching out
@@JefesChopShop i changed to a 40amp fuse and no problems at all, however i am running 50 amp rated wire direct from the battery, and the rest of the wiring is 30 amp rated.
Thank you. That was simple and straight to the point. Nice 2 prong toggle with relay wire up. These other videos have like 3 grounds here, 3 power wires their. Uugghh, too much. THANK YOU AGAIN. BRO YOU ROCK
Hello, I am not sure if all of these parts will be the same in Germany but you need basic car wire 14 gauge is best for this use. Then you need a two prong 20 amp toggle switch. Wire striping tool. You need a 4 pin 12 volt relay. Then basic wire connection, heat shrinking wrap and 14 gauge female disconnect one for each terminal on the relay. Hope this helps and Danke fürs zuschauen
Your a wire hook up away from going to factory relay connections. A/C relay clutch wire from radiator for temp control can go into the relay and turn it on by that instead of switch. I did batter to in-line fuse then to switch then switch to tan and tan grounded and never have an issue
Why is the GROUND wire RED?? Most of the the GROUND wires are BLACK? RED wires are Always POSTIVE when working with cars?? The Wire Is completely BACKWARDS?!?!?! This Video is REALLY Detailed, Explaining How To Setup The Wires. The Wire Colors Labeling, Is any Persons Preference. Good Video really Detailed! I just Hope this Solution Fixs my Fan Problem!
The inadaquate connector between the fan and the truck is shit! ive had 2 of them completely melt together and the fan stops working, i exploded 2 new radiators in a week before i did what you did here but be sure you eliminate that connector cause it will leave you walking
Good helpful video bro but instead of having main 12volt going to switch why not power straight to relay and run negative pin on relay through to the switch and ground other pin of switch
Needed to power the switch so the action affected the relay, if you ground it it will just cook it I belive. Might be a better way but this is at least the way that worked for my application.
Please help me, I did everything as in your video and the manual shift works really well, but that's why the 30A fuse that did the auto ignition blew before I installed this. Do you think I should put a 40A fuse in the factory place for the 30A fuse and would that solve the problem? Thank you!
@lukaerakovic3197 Hey, so I understand are you talking about a separate fuse from the factory in the fuse box? Or are you talking about the fuse I show in my video that I installed along the wire from the battery? If you mean the one from the battery yes I did upgrade mine from 30 to 40 and it solved my issues but I did not change any other factory fuses in the fuse box itself. I wouldn't recommend changing any sizes beyond what came out of the factory for what's in the fuse box. The reason being is you might have a separate issue that the fuse in the fuse box is preventing from getting worse so you'd want to solve that rather than allowing it to cause more damage down the line but uping the fuse size in the fuse box itself. But again if you mean the one I show in the video along the power wire that can be changed to 40 amp instead.
@lukaerakovic3197 Could be a few things, bad sensor, bad ground, damaged wire. If something is shorting out you just don't want that bypassing the factory fuse. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
instead of using a switch at the dash, why not purchase a temperature switch? You could get one rated for 10 degrees above your T-stat. You could also tap into your AC hot wire and run it through your relay controls as well. That way anytime the AC is on, it comes on and/or anytime the water temp gets 10 degrees above your t-stat it comes on as well. just some ideas.
Wasn't what I was going for with this. I could have also fixed the regulator that came factory standard which is temperature controlled but I was annoyed with it burning out and not being able to tell it was broken until I was in the drive thru when it would need to kick on. This is pure and simple making a way to turn the fan on whenever I want. The Ac is a good idea though, I'm just partial to airplane looking switches
This was exactly the video I was looking for. You can find a million videos running it to a T Stat. This was what I needed running it like it is. Great video
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L I need to find a key on ignition power source, preferably under the hood. If there is an easy way to get "key on only" power from the engine bay fuse box please tell me how to and where to wire up. I could do it from under dash fuse box but I'm not sure where I should run the wiring across engine bay, there is to many areas with hot components and the E-Fans wires are on the left of radiator and the belt/engine/rad fan are in the way of running to the driver side firewall. How did you run yours and do you know of a ignition 12V power source under hood that's relatively safe to run a electric radiator fan that's most likely pulling 30Amps at startup
Great video. Does anyone know if the fan should be a puller or pusher position? Want to do this ASAP, but dont know best way to set fan for better cooling. Thanks.
I think a Pusher is when the fan is on the front of the radiator and a Puller when it is on the backside of radiator. I am just guessing with that. Do some research.
@williamc2930 You arent wrong, but some videos show how to reverse a fan. So the position of the fan can actually not be that important. I guess some cars can't have the position swapped, so a person might want to change it. Either way, I found out the stock fan is a puller. So I will keep it that way. Thanks.
How did you get through the firewall. Mine feels Undisturbed. I can't get through near steering shaft, power booster or the ABS wiring harness going through on right side of power brake booster 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 VIN-N Selec-Trac
Between the brake booster and the driver side fender there should be a rubber grommet that the rest of the wires are going thru, using a solid wire you can push thru from the inside and the pull thru the switch wire. Then I mounted the switch underneath the steering wheel that main large panel had about an inch and a half of black plastic along where the bottom screws are, I drilled thru that so it was just out of sight
Hi there, I have the 4.7 with the stupid hydraulic fan I want to get a electric fan for it but I want the fan controlled by the pcm and not by a aftermarket controller and a auxiliary temp sensor I know the 99 4.7 non tow had a e-fan and mechanical fan do you have the wiring diagram for the 4.7 with the pin on the pcm and then I tune it and delete the hydraulic fan system from the pcm ik yours is the legendary 4.0
I do it right away but I live somewhere very hot. Technically jeep fans out of the factory turn on at a certain temp only. So in theory if you didn't mind clicking it on and off while you drive you'd only do it when the temp started going over the half mark. So stop and go traffic or really any driving off the freeway. Again I just run it from the jump, maybe it means the fan won't last as long but plenty of cars operate that way and I'd rather it be too cool than risk over heating.
The switch doesn't do anything if it doesn't have power. The point of the relay is so you are not running the full amps needed to power the fan into your cab but rather directing a small amount in. You can absolutely find a "hot" wire already in the cab that also comes from the battery and splice into it for power but I wanted this to be as simple and straight forward as possible.
@@picklesgarage oh ok so the switch won't get too hot from having the power coming from the battery or the yellow wire itself won't get too hot and the Melt?
Hey Pickle got a ? I hooked up my cooling fans with your method. At first I had a ground wire from the fan melt. I changed the wire to a better wire and tried it again. Know my fuse keeps blowing when I turn the toggle switch on. Can u help?
Do u have it set up where the computer still can control it? As well as u can manually override and turn it on.. my jeep seems to run a lil warmer then I think I should.. so I was gonna run a override switch bit still have it where the car can turn it on as well. Because I was told if u don't have it that way it can or will set a check engine light. I have a 98 xj cherokee sport.. 4.0
I do not, I just got to the point I needed complete control but you can interact with splicing wires connected to the ignition for power so it can only turn on when the ignition is on or for what you are referring to you'll have to splice into wires going to the relay but it's under the passenger headlight under neath plastic you'd have to cut. Doable but much more extensive I have a video related to the relay that you can reference that will show where it had to be cut but sadly I can't be more help on which wires to connect to
I guess technically but I wouldn't recommend it, the relay is really to keep the heavy voltage only going from your battery straight to the fan. Then you can have lighter power going to the switch. Without the relay and then having the convenience of the switch in the cab you are effectively running a heavy power cable from your positive straight to under the dash which with the best case being you potentially kill your battery often and worse case being you burn your car down. It feels like a lot of steps but that's why I just showed you the pieces and it works perfect for me no need to get super technical like the other videos but the relay is worth the time.
Nothing I interacted with runs directly to the PCM. Fan is direct to the new relay and switch is direct to the relay and it's power supply. If you are trying to incorporate the temp sending unit then you'd have to set it up differently. As far as my computer is concerned, when it gets to temp it signals a relay to send power to something that isn't there. Sender did it's job, computer did it's job and so did the relay so no warning lights or other up stream issues happen it just might as well be signaling to turn on the dome light so I don't have issues.
you could have fused the 30 & 86... And ground the 85 to the switch.. & ground the other pin to a ground switch under the dash.. that way you don't have a hot wire running into the dash... your fans will turn on by the ground
Yep, no more over heating. I am able to turn the fan on whenever I need to. I could probably turn it on and off while driving but really I just leave it on and have no issues.
You'll want to use the 40a relay. With electrical work it's not really about longevity it's really whether it will work or not. 40amp is needed for the larger power applications if you use 30 it will likely pop fuses or melt if not wired up correctly. 40amp inline fuse works great.
@@picklesgarageThanks mang, fast response, good video. I’ll let y’all know if it blows up my car or catches fire like the rest of these clowns in the comments are saying. Will install in a couple days.
I did the DIY but without a relay. The fan works when the engine is off. If I start the engine and try to turn the fan on, the fuse blows. Do you think adding a relay would solve this problem? Thank you
For sure, the relay allows you to have a lower voltage wire to the switch. If you do it without the relay you will have effectively a battery cable traveling around your engine bay and into your cab which at best will cook the lower gage wires and at worst burn your car down. Using the relay should help, also note I did up my fuse to a regular sized 40.
@MarwellGrimes The "standard" size fuse is the ATC type which you'll see at the auto parts store. They have mini versions but they are more limited in the break point for at least what you'll find at the store. I had gone too small in the video but a regular 40 amp ATC has yet to fail me. And the fuse is best from the power wire, that gets "hot" then it saves your whole system not just one of the off shoots. And the relay it self is in the center more or less. All it does is direct action. So power to it, response from the switch and then what your triggering which in this case is the fan. My set up has nothing to do with the temp sensor it's entirely set up for me to manually turn it on or off. If you are going to trust your temp sensor it's better to fix the relay under the passenger light, I have a video on that as well.
So the fuse from the battery to the relay you mean? I haven't heard of a fuse catching fire they just burst and then power no longer passes. What gauge wire did you use What fuse?
the fuse line from the battery to the relay burned enough to cause a small fire throwing lots of smoke into my vents lucky i caught it. it didnt burn past the my 30 amp fuse so it did do its job 👍. i used all 12 gauge wire
@gabrielreyes2564 Yeah that's strange, I hate to brush it off like something was faulty but wires typically only cook like that if a positive connects to a ground. The fuse line isn't supposed to stop one side from cooking its suppose to disconnect power before that starts. Connect any wire to either side of the battery and if it's not connected to anything else nothing will happen which is essentially the point of the fuse so for it too cook it must be arching. Might just be a bad fuse, fuse line or relay connection but mine has been fine since set up and seems others on here as well. Sorry that happened though might have to just take it in and maybe they can find the issue.
Why not just leave the relay where its suppossed to be in the box and connect all your wires to it from under the box. it would look completley stock lol
You could, in fact I have a video of bringing everything back to stock by just fixing the relay which most people have issues with to start with. This is more showing people how to set up a switch for really any car set up. Sounds like it's not info you needed but hey thanks for watching anyway.
@@picklesgarage Hey so coming from the fan, did you splice into the ground and power wires and left the fan plug connected like normal or disconnect fan plug from car n splice into them? How exactly is it connected to the fan? and I got a 20amp 12v switch and I just used the original relay from the fuse box which is a 5 prong (87a)in the center are those good?
@maniacalmonster2293 I am direct connecting my relay to the power and ground of the fan. You can splice it with the existing relay to try to take advantage of the tempature sensor that normally activates the fan or you can use a wire that only gets hot at ignition when setting up the switch. There's a few ways to do it but I had an issue with my relay. On the 2002 it's under the plastic of the bumper under the passenger headlight. Somewhere along there there was a short and I was tired of fixing it and then not being able to tell right away it worked because the fan only turned on when it was hot which is why I personally decided to bypass everything all together.
@@picklesgarage what if you have two blue wires for the fan and are using a five prong relay? cuz I did everything to the T and it's not working so I'm guessing it's the relay or I have the wrong blue Wire
@maniacalmonster2293 That is interesting must not be a stock fan maybe. Be very careful with this to only tap on the battery briefly but you can check which is positive and which is negative by connecting directly to the battery like I did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Rcu-K-_RDP8/v-deo.html
Not for everyone, need to take your time with it for sure but that's with any repair not everyone is comfortable even going under a car if they don't know how to jack it up either. Some times it's easier to do the wrong thing the right way but there's always the option to have things done professionally if outside someone's comfort zone. Thanks for watching
NOTE: In the video you will see I was using the low profile 30amp fuse which was admittedly conservative but I thought it would be enough. It ended up popping on me so I switched over to a normal 40 Amp and haven't had problems so I would recommend that for yours as well. I also moved the power wires to just inside the fuse box those two size 10 nuts for a cleaner look.
yep had that problem too with the 30 amp fuse popped, so il change to 40
I’m running a 20amp fuse, keeps popping. If my wire is rated for less than 30 amps is it safe to run a 40amp fuse?
@JefesChopShop it's a bit of a hassle but with electrical it's better to be safe than sorry so I'd recommend replacing with higher rated wire. Otherwise you shift the problem from popping fuses to melting wires and you'd have to re do anyway. Thanks for reaching out
@@JefesChopShop i changed to a 40amp fuse and no problems at all, however i am running 50 amp rated wire direct from the battery, and the rest of the wiring is 30 amp rated.
@@chadsy7312 50 amp rated wire from the battery to the relay?
Exactly what I was looking for. Didn’t wanna return to college to get this done. Thank you for speaking language the rest of us can understand!
Thank you bro,you helped me out big time,was stuck for a day till I saw this vid,you explained everything excellent....
Thanks man finally a really good video going to try this out now 💯💯
@@rodrigorosas8966 I appreciate it, thanks for watching
Thank you buddy couldn’t be a video more straight cut to the chase a to b on how to get her done. your the best god bless and stay safe.
Great video! I'm going to use this way to add a 8" pusher fan to my Ram 3.6l. Ram has the factory fan off till 228f and those temps scare me.
@@leecrumble3921 Thanks for watching!
Thank you. That was simple and straight to the point. Nice 2 prong toggle with relay wire up. These other videos have like 3 grounds here, 3 power wires their. Uugghh, too much. THANK YOU AGAIN. BRO YOU ROCK
thank you so much for this video man. i am not very electrically inclined and this has genuinely helped me understand it further.
Dude,you deserve a gold medal for this.thanks for posting
thank you you so much it worked well so far will be testing it out tomarrow
also had to use 40 amp also
Glad to hear it. Mine is still going strong from when I made this video. Thanks for watching!
Keep up the awesome information brotha
nice bro you made this so easy for me, i appreciate it. currently trying to wire in my E fans for my supra lmao
Perfect you definitely helped out of the overheating 😅
Could you give a list about the parts I need for this?
Thanks and best regards from Germany.
Hello, I am not sure if all of these parts will be the same in Germany but you need basic car wire 14 gauge is best for this use. Then you need a two prong 20 amp toggle switch. Wire striping tool. You need a 4 pin 12 volt relay. Then basic wire connection, heat shrinking wrap and 14 gauge female disconnect one for each terminal on the relay. Hope this helps and Danke fürs zuschauen
@@picklesgarage thanks again! I think it's almost be same.
Your a wire hook up away from going to factory relay connections. A/C relay clutch wire from radiator for temp control can go into the relay and turn it on by that instead of switch. I did batter to in-line fuse then to switch then switch to tan and tan grounded and never have an issue
Thanks your video really helped me out 👍
Dude you sound just like Eric Forman from that 70s show
Had to do something with my retirement after the show haha
I just want to say thank you
Why is the GROUND wire RED?? Most of the the GROUND wires are BLACK? RED wires are Always POSTIVE when working with cars?? The Wire Is completely BACKWARDS?!?!?! This Video is REALLY Detailed, Explaining How To Setup The Wires. The Wire Colors Labeling, Is any Persons Preference. Good Video really Detailed! I just Hope this Solution Fixs my Fan Problem!
Wrong ground has no current positive is hot when it comes to cars it does not matter the color of a wire
Used a 75 amp relay 12volt 4 prong and dual inline 40 amp fuses
Sorry I just seen your note I'll give it a try thanks.
Hope it worked, sorry I try to stay on top of my notifications but your first one slipped thru.
The inadaquate connector between the fan and the truck is shit! ive had 2 of them completely melt together and the fan stops working, i exploded 2 new radiators in a week before i did what you did here but be sure you eliminate that connector cause it will leave you walking
Good helpful video bro but instead of having main 12volt going to switch why not power straight to relay and run negative pin on relay through to the switch and ground other pin of switch
Needed to power the switch so the action affected the relay, if you ground it it will just cook it I belive. Might be a better way but this is at least the way that worked for my application.
Please help me, I did everything as in your video and the manual shift works really well, but that's why the 30A fuse that did the auto ignition blew before I installed this.
Do you think I should put a 40A fuse in the factory place for the 30A fuse and would that solve the problem?
Thank you!
@lukaerakovic3197 Hey, so I understand are you talking about a separate fuse from the factory in the fuse box? Or are you talking about the fuse I show in my video that I installed along the wire from the battery? If you mean the one from the battery yes I did upgrade mine from 30 to 40 and it solved my issues but I did not change any other factory fuses in the fuse box itself. I wouldn't recommend changing any sizes beyond what came out of the factory for what's in the fuse box. The reason being is you might have a separate issue that the fuse in the fuse box is preventing from getting worse so you'd want to solve that rather than allowing it to cause more damage down the line but uping the fuse size in the fuse box itself. But again if you mean the one I show in the video along the power wire that can be changed to 40 amp instead.
@@picklesgaragethanks for the answer,
I thought about the factory fuse, I will try to find out what the problem is.
@lukaerakovic3197 Could be a few things, bad sensor, bad ground, damaged wire. If something is shorting out you just don't want that bypassing the factory fuse. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
instead of using a switch at the dash, why not purchase a temperature switch? You could get one rated for 10 degrees above your T-stat. You could also tap into your AC hot wire and run it through your relay controls as well. That way anytime the AC is on, it comes on and/or anytime the water temp gets 10 degrees above your t-stat it comes on as well. just some ideas.
Wasn't what I was going for with this. I could have also fixed the regulator that came factory standard which is temperature controlled but I was annoyed with it burning out and not being able to tell it was broken until I was in the drive thru when it would need to kick on. This is pure and simple making a way to turn the fan on whenever I want. The Ac is a good idea though, I'm just partial to airplane looking switches
This was exactly the video I was looking for. You can find a million videos running it to a T Stat. This was what I needed running it like it is. Great video
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L
I need to find a key on ignition power source, preferably under the hood. If there is an easy way to get "key on only" power from the engine bay fuse box please tell me how to and where to wire up.
I could do it from under dash fuse box but I'm not sure where I should run the wiring across engine bay, there is to many areas with hot components and the E-Fans wires are on the left of radiator and the belt/engine/rad fan are in the way of running to the driver side firewall.
How did you run yours and do you know of a ignition 12V power source under hood that's relatively safe to run a electric radiator fan that's most likely pulling 30Amps at startup
Great video. Does anyone know if the fan should be a puller or pusher position? Want to do this ASAP, but dont know best way to set fan for better cooling. Thanks.
I think a Pusher is when the fan is on the front of the radiator and a Puller when it is on the backside of radiator. I am just guessing with that. Do some research.
@williamc2930 You arent wrong, but some videos show how to reverse a fan. So the position of the fan can actually not be that important. I guess some cars can't have the position swapped, so a person might want to change it. Either way, I found out the stock fan is a puller. So I will keep it that way. Thanks.
How did you get through the firewall. Mine feels Undisturbed. I can't get through near steering shaft, power booster or the ABS wiring harness going through on right side of power brake booster
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 VIN-N Selec-Trac
Between the brake booster and the driver side fender there should be a rubber grommet that the rest of the wires are going thru, using a solid wire you can push thru from the inside and the pull thru the switch wire. Then I mounted the switch underneath the steering wheel that main large panel had about an inch and a half of black plastic along where the bottom screws are, I drilled thru that so it was just out of sight
Hi there, I have the 4.7 with the stupid hydraulic fan I want to get a electric fan for it but I want the fan controlled by the pcm and not by a aftermarket controller and a auxiliary temp sensor I know the 99 4.7 non tow had a e-fan and mechanical fan do you have the wiring diagram for the 4.7 with the pin on the pcm and then I tune it and delete the hydraulic fan system from the pcm ik yours is the legendary 4.0
Hey, yeah unfortunetly I am not sure on that. That will be a nice setup for sure I just don't have any experience with it.
When would it be a good time to turn on your fan? At a certain degrees to turn on and or do you just turn it on right away
I do it right away but I live somewhere very hot. Technically jeep fans out of the factory turn on at a certain temp only. So in theory if you didn't mind clicking it on and off while you drive you'd only do it when the temp started going over the half mark. So stop and go traffic or really any driving off the freeway. Again I just run it from the jump, maybe it means the fan won't last as long but plenty of cars operate that way and I'd rather it be too cool than risk over heating.
Isnt the whole point of using a relay so you dont run power from the battery too the switch?
The switch doesn't do anything if it doesn't have power. The point of the relay is so you are not running the full amps needed to power the fan into your cab but rather directing a small amount in. You can absolutely find a "hot" wire already in the cab that also comes from the battery and splice into it for power but I wanted this to be as simple and straight forward as possible.
@@picklesgarage oh ok so the switch won't get too hot from having the power coming from the battery or the yellow wire itself won't get too hot and the Melt?
@@fernierodriguez3838 Exactly, it's safer
How do I do this with dual cooling fans. I hooked one up working great. Do I just ground the other fan and use the same relay?
Yeah that should work fine grounding the other separately and then going thru the same relay for the power source with a fuse. Thanks for watching.
How do you connect the second fan to the 4 pin relay? aren't all the relays pins used up on the first fan?
Hey Pickle got a ? I hooked up my cooling fans with your method. At first I had a ground wire from the fan melt. I changed the wire to a better wire and tried it again. Know my fuse keeps blowing when I turn the toggle switch on. Can u help?
Did you use 16 gauge wire from the switch to the battery and to the relay? Did you use a fuse between the battery and the switch?
Do u have it set up where the computer still can control it? As well as u can manually override and turn it on.. my jeep seems to run a lil warmer then I think I should.. so I was gonna run a override switch bit still have it where the car can turn it on as well. Because I was told if u don't have it that way it can or will set a check engine light. I have a 98 xj cherokee sport.. 4.0
I do not, I just got to the point I needed complete control but you can interact with splicing wires connected to the ignition for power so it can only turn on when the ignition is on or for what you are referring to you'll have to splice into wires going to the relay but it's under the passenger headlight under neath plastic you'd have to cut. Doable but much more extensive I have a video related to the relay that you can reference that will show where it had to be cut but sadly I can't be more help on which wires to connect to
can i do it with out a relay i just want a manual toggle on off
I guess technically but I wouldn't recommend it, the relay is really to keep the heavy voltage only going from your battery straight to the fan. Then you can have lighter power going to the switch. Without the relay and then having the convenience of the switch in the cab you are effectively running a heavy power cable from your positive straight to under the dash which with the best case being you potentially kill your battery often and worse case being you burn your car down. It feels like a lot of steps but that's why I just showed you the pieces and it works perfect for me no need to get super technical like the other videos but the relay is worth the time.
Thank you
So does jeep run cause it's wires back into the PCM
Nothing I interacted with runs directly to the PCM. Fan is direct to the new relay and switch is direct to the relay and it's power supply. If you are trying to incorporate the temp sending unit then you'd have to set it up differently. As far as my computer is concerned, when it gets to temp it signals a relay to send power to something that isn't there. Sender did it's job, computer did it's job and so did the relay so no warning lights or other up stream issues happen it just might as well be signaling to turn on the dome light so I don't have issues.
you could have fused the 30 & 86... And ground the 85 to the switch.. & ground the other pin to a ground switch under the dash.. that way you don't have a hot wire running into the dash... your fans will turn on by the ground
no more overheating ?? please comment
Yep, no more over heating. I am able to turn the fan on whenever I need to. I could probably turn it on and off while driving but really I just leave it on and have no issues.
Shall I be using a 30a or 40a SPST relay for a setup similar to this? What’s the difference, will the 40a relay last longer?
Does the 40a just have a better rating, also going to use 40a inline fuse
You'll want to use the 40a relay. With electrical work it's not really about longevity it's really whether it will work or not. 40amp is needed for the larger power applications if you use 30 it will likely pop fuses or melt if not wired up correctly. 40amp inline fuse works great.
@@picklesgarageThanks mang, fast response, good video. I’ll let y’all know if it blows up my car or catches fire like the rest of these clowns in the comments are saying. Will install in a couple days.
Can I use 14 gauge black line ?
I did the DIY but without a relay. The fan works when the engine is off. If I start the engine and try to turn the fan on, the fuse blows. Do you think adding a relay would solve this problem? Thank you
For sure, the relay allows you to have a lower voltage wire to the switch. If you do it without the relay you will have effectively a battery cable traveling around your engine bay and into your cab which at best will cook the lower gage wires and at worst burn your car down. Using the relay should help, also note I did up my fuse to a regular sized 40.
@@picklesgarage thank you very much 😊.
@@picklesgaragewhat do you mean by "I did my fuse to a regular sized 40" ?
So the relay has to be before any switch or temp switch
@MarwellGrimes The "standard" size fuse is the ATC type which you'll see at the auto parts store. They have mini versions but they are more limited in the break point for at least what you'll find at the store. I had gone too small in the video but a regular 40 amp ATC has yet to fail me. And the fuse is best from the power wire, that gets "hot" then it saves your whole system not just one of the off shoots. And the relay it self is in the center more or less. All it does is direct action. So power to it, response from the switch and then what your triggering which in this case is the fan. My set up has nothing to do with the temp sensor it's entirely set up for me to manually turn it on or off. If you are going to trust your temp sensor it's better to fix the relay under the passenger light, I have a video on that as well.
i did this and my the whole fuse wire caught fire
So the fuse from the battery to the relay you mean? I haven't heard of a fuse catching fire they just burst and then power no longer passes. What gauge wire did you use What fuse?
the fuse line from the battery to the relay burned enough to cause a small fire throwing lots of smoke into my vents lucky i caught it. it didnt burn past the my 30 amp fuse so it did do its job 👍. i used all 12 gauge wire
everything was going perfect till about 20 minutes of driving around that happened
@gabrielreyes2564 Yeah that's strange, I hate to brush it off like something was faulty but wires typically only cook like that if a positive connects to a ground. The fuse line isn't supposed to stop one side from cooking its suppose to disconnect power before that starts. Connect any wire to either side of the battery and if it's not connected to anything else nothing will happen which is essentially the point of the fuse so for it too cook it must be arching. Might just be a bad fuse, fuse line or relay connection but mine has been fine since set up and seems others on here as well. Sorry that happened though might have to just take it in and maybe they can find the issue.
@@picklesgarage appreciate the response
Why not just leave the relay where its suppossed to be in the box and connect all your wires to it from under the box. it would look completley stock lol
You could, in fact I have a video of bringing everything back to stock by just fixing the relay which most people have issues with to start with. This is more showing people how to set up a switch for really any car set up. Sounds like it's not info you needed but hey thanks for watching anyway.
@@picklesgarage Hey so coming from the fan, did you splice into the ground and power wires and left the fan plug connected like normal or disconnect fan plug from car n splice into them? How exactly is it connected to the fan?
and I got a 20amp 12v switch and I just used the original relay from the fuse box which is a 5 prong (87a)in the center are those good?
@maniacalmonster2293 I am direct connecting my relay to the power and ground of the fan. You can splice it with the existing relay to try to take advantage of the tempature sensor that normally activates the fan or you can use a wire that only gets hot at ignition when setting up the switch. There's a few ways to do it but I had an issue with my relay. On the 2002 it's under the plastic of the bumper under the passenger headlight. Somewhere along there there was a short and I was tired of fixing it and then not being able to tell right away it worked because the fan only turned on when it was hot which is why I personally decided to bypass everything all together.
@@picklesgarage what if you have two blue wires for the fan and are using a five prong relay? cuz I did everything to the T and it's not working so I'm guessing it's the relay or I have the wrong blue Wire
@maniacalmonster2293 That is interesting must not be a stock fan maybe. Be very careful with this to only tap on the battery briefly but you can check which is positive and which is negative by connecting directly to the battery like I did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Rcu-K-_RDP8/v-deo.html
Very dangerous idea period.
Not for everyone, need to take your time with it for sure but that's with any repair not everyone is comfortable even going under a car if they don't know how to jack it up either. Some times it's easier to do the wrong thing the right way but there's always the option to have things done professionally if outside someone's comfort zone. Thanks for watching