Nailed it, another great demo, thanks for showing us the Ashley Stopper Knot .... great use for it with the double braided rope soft shackle, might have to dust of the old copy of Ashley's book of knots and see what else I might have missed in the ole bible
Thanks again ! I am sure Clifford could not have imaged what a soft shackle was when he was writing his book in the 1930's and 40's, as with many things these days the rate of change just gets faster and faster. If he could have looked this far ahead I am sure that his failed attempt to tie what turned out to be a swollen figure 8 which he saw on an old fishing boat would have been at the top of the list for this use case. I tried quite a few stoppers with this method of soft shackle, the Ashley or Oyster stopper knot proved to be the best hence the recommendation as as the first choice option in the video. For anyone reading this who does not have Ashely's Book of Knots the team at Bottom Up Boats can highly recommend picking up a copy, first published in 1944 it is still the "Knot Bible" for many (including us), see the link below for details :- amzn.to/3aHNe52 As an amazon associate we get commission from associated sales. We really appreciate the support that this programs gives us, as a small You Tube channel programs like this enable us to create more content for you !!
@@BottomUPBoats I picked up ABOT several years ago. Hammock rigging got me started. Converted my trimaran to synthetic rigging a couple of years ago. I went with the splices to avoid the loss in strength from the bends in knots. After looking at the safe working load for my Dynema, reducing it by half is still well within range. Your knotted shackles would require about one tenth of the time it takes me to splice a shackle, and the dimensions aren't nearly as critical. Your shackles can also be produced more easily on the fly or under way.
@@wisenber totally agree. Modern dynemma rope takes the breaking strains to new levels reducing the need for splicing in many use cases. You will be set for next time when you need to replace the work you did :)
@seanbeckerer5089 You could think of them just like their name suggests ...... an alternative to a metal shackle, clip or carabeena. Yes some corded braclets use the same principle to connect them as soft shackles
Very useful, yes. However, the other "complicated and expensive" soft shackles made from dyneema with appropriate splices and knots for that line are much much stronger.
Nice work ! It is always nice to be able to create one of the spliced options we demo on the channel. This however is a great place to start !!!! Which is your favourite ? We love the Ashely Stopper with the Larks Head to lock it off it looks great and works well too :)
Fantastico! La tecnica che mi piace di più è l'ultima con il nodo Ashley di arresto e la bocca di lupo . Un sistema rapido ed efficacissimo per realizzare un ottimo soft shackles ! Bravi !
Totalmente d'accordo sul fatto che il nodo stopper Ashley e il cordino sono la selezione migliore dei grilli morbidi da 10 secondi. Grazie per essere passato e aver lasciato il tuo feedback
This is an excellent video, very well done! I don’t need a $50.00 Soft Shackle around our property, just something that I can make a quick connect and pull a medium weight load with.
Glad it was helpful! Sounds like the option we shared are perfect for your use case and can be made with less than 1 metre of any spare rope you have..
Glad it was helpful ! Sounds like you have found a solution to your problem that can be solved with any 1 metre for rope that you have lying around....
Thanks for the feedback, I think you have just given the title for my next video. I will see what I can do to show you how we use then. We use them to attach sheets and halyards to sails, blocks fixing points, the list of what you can do is just about endless.
Nice one. I've also been experimenting and demonstrating variations of soft shackles and will soon put up a vid of destruction tests of all different variations. Happy to add your methods and tag you if you then want to tag or share that vid.
Yes we did leave the best to last. This is my personal favourite too. It will work with dyneema, with that said I would suggest using some of the other spliced versions demonstrated on the channel if you have the time.
I know all of these knots but till I saw this video I had never even heard of a soft shackle, so useful! Thank you I've definitely learnt something today. Keep it up mate.
Thanks for stopping by and and glad you found it useful. Everyday is a school day, even better when you can learn something that takes something old and makes it new. Please like and share with others who might find it useful, this helps this great platform get the word out and about with others.
Did he just show about 7 different knots or am I losing my mind? Could have sworn he ended with "number 4" but also pretty sure I saw more knots than that. Either way, great video. Easy to follow and also entertaining, and that's tough to do.
Instead of making a loop and throwing a cow hitch over, just tie a knot on each end of a single length and then put the loose ends together and then throw cow hitch over, this way you still have a short length of cordage for other jobs than just a soft shackle. Thats what i do.
Great idea !!!! I will be giving this one ago. Same outcome using less rope. Will have a lighter breaking load which should not be an issue for most add hoc use cases
@@BottomUPBoats if I want a soft shackle of a particular size I use the cow hitch as normal and with the loose ends I tie a Espalier knot or a surgeons knot, the latter of the two of what I use mostly and it never moves.
Any time, these shackles can be used in most applications that you would use a traditional metal shackle. They are lighter, cheaper and with modern rope the can be stronger than their metal cousins. They have the added advantage of causing less damage your boat, spars or humans in use cases where they may be flapping around .
on boats they can now be used in most places traditional shackles are used, fixing pulleys to fixed points, sails to sheets or halyards to name a few. Climbers also use then in place of metal options as they are light and have high breaking loads if made out of modern rope. They are also big with 4X4 users, much safer to winch with these as if the cable breaks you don't have bits of metal flying around.
The breaking strain will be less, the primary reason for this is the bury give you 4 widths where the rope exits the knot into the main body of the shackle. Secondary reason for the reduced strength will be the methods for doing the lock, the knot based locks will also reduce the breaking strain. For there reason we recommend the burry method if you have the time. These are great if you only have double braid or need to get something done in a hurry. Finally yes there will work with dyneema, I am going to have to do some break tests to get data to confirm the variation in the strength of the various options.
Trust level depends on the use case, I was going to use to keep me connected while climb I totally agree that the last one would be my preferred option. With that said there are thousands of use cases which the early models could be used for.
The video is about doing them quickly, the use case is always up to the user. With that in mind I agree and choose other options for critical use cases.
Glad it was helpful ! Which was you favourite ? I can not got past the Ashely Stopper knot version, round end creates a great locking point for the shackle.
@@vxphan2601 you should have no issues with this one slipping. If you are going to put it under extended periods of long loads it is always good to pre load them prior to putting them in place. With that said you should be a OK once it is in place.
I tried another variant: the Ashley stopper (ABoK #526) for the knob and the Tag noose (ABoK #1126) for the clamp - seems it may be (even) more slack shake proof than the Lark Head and doesn't fall apart when the shackle is opened.
Glad you found it useful, lots of use cases for these quick and easy soft shackles, both on and off the water. Appreciate the feedback, it is always nice to get comments like the one you shared :)
To get the max strength with a spliced shackle you need to finish it with 4 widths of rope past the stopper knot with a simple loop to hold it in place. This can result in a braking strength 230% of the base rope. I have not tested these but it will be a lot less, with only two widths and the knots to finish them off (which could be the weakest point) I would suggest it would be similar or slightly below the strength one width of rope. I am going to have to find someone with an load cell so I can run some actual comparisons for these...
I just want to know why cordage solutions are referred to as knots (funny talk for WRONGS) instead of yeps (funny talk for corrects). That's all I want to know.
There is only one place to go to get the answer to this one...... Page 12 of Ashely's book of knots !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! amzn.to/3fkisle The word KNOT has three distinct meanings in common use. In its broadest sense it applies to all complications in cordage, except accidental ones, such as snarls and kinks, and complications adapted for storage, such as coils, hanks, skeins, balls, etc. In its second sense it does not include bends, hitches, splices and sinnets, and in its third and narrowest sense the term applies only to a knob tied in a rope to prevent unreeving, to provide a handhold, or (in small material only) to prevent fraying.
I have been using an overhand knot with the through and over method for about 5 years daily to carry my water bottle at work. I have about a half dozen soft shackles that I use in this method and I never have had any failures or lost items due to coming apart. I actually use heat shrink tubing to keep the shackles shaped up and tight. The best part about this method is they are easy to use even with gloves on.
Thanks for stopping by and for joining the crew. I had not considered the Bull Hitch, thinking it about it is obvious that they both can do the job. The Bull Hitch is slightly more secure due to the cross over in the main part of the hitch. While I have not tested it my first impressions are this will make it harder to undo after load has been applied, if this is the case I would stick with the Cow Hitch. With that said it is up to you, both will do a good job.
@@BottomUPBoatsDarn good point, my first thought it would be more secure and less likely to loosen if bounced around. Getting it undo might be an issue...
@@mistastabs5840 the shackles tend to stay locked even after light load. If you are worried about them come undone you can loop a Velcro strip around the knot end to keep it neat and tidy
@@BottomUPBoats I can remember how to do yours a lot easier, and yours don't require measuring half a dozen times. I'll still be splicing my slings and loops.
Yep. The Ashley and Larks is clutch. Works amazing!!!! Now it's So easy to put my soft shackles inside the tarp pouch and I can attach my tarp to my ridge line without any sticks or twigs.
99 / 5,000 Translation results Translation result Да, отличный вариант, зачем платить большие деньги за то, что можно сделать за считанные секунды с любым типом веревки.
As per the names these are meant to be quick and easy. If you did search hopefully you end up back in the same place as we have lots of REAL options for you to try too. ua-cam.com/play/PLMoCfFBA9IMXC6P0b6Ql8822sZnthEYfk.html
@@BottomUPBoats How many quick and easy solutions end up being a root cause of disaster? I wouldn't use these ANYWHERE in my rigging on any boat larger than an Optimist. Sorry, but these are just not equivalent to a dyneema S.S. or a metal shackle. If these fail on a 12' day sailor, no real problem, but on a 22' boat? A 30'?
@@daveopincarne3718 we have lots of other options on the channel that I agree are better for heavy duty options. We use these as temporary or if you need a loop in a hurry.
@@BottomUPBoats That's great to hear. But I'm still concerned that, based on other user's comments, that their lack of knowledge about soft shackles could lead to catastrophic consiquences. I suggest you clarify that these should only be used as utility items and not for technichal applications.
Thanks for the great video, which is also great for absolute non-sailors and amateurs! I have a question: How can I weld the cut end of the cordage without a large tool so that it doesn't split open here?
I think you are asking how to stop the cut end of the rope from fraying. If this is the case, it is best to cut the rope with a hot night or use a lighter to heat the rope, some of the fibres will melt which harden when it cools. This will stop any fraying. Hopefully this answers your question.
@@BottomUPBoats Something that is intriguing me recently and you guys might be the people to poke at this topic too. It is the low friction rings or thimbles that are available now. I’m only starting to play with them recently. I’m looking for a way to use them “backwards”. Run the running line around the outside and the fixed shackle line through the middle. This, I’m hoping, will give the running line less friction (or more leverage to overcome the friction) of the inner line and also give less of a tight angle on the running line. It takes the thimble one step closer to being a block replacement for some things. There are two hiccups I’m imagining so far. 1. The big catch is that the shackle running in the middle gets a lot of friction in one spot. Possibly dyneema is hard enough wearing to not be a worry for a long time !! It’s basically using dyneema as a bearing. There may be lubrication options to help out here. Or sheathing options too. ! 2. The other is finding an elegant way to keep the running line “in the block” when the line is slack. There might be a nice way to bring a loose loop around the ring with the soft shackle or another little line, to act as a “keep it in place “ type catch to hold the running line. If you have thought about this and found solutions then please do share. This approach would never completely replace a good block but in many situations (outhalls, Cunningham purchase systems, kickers /boom vangs, etc) where things need strength but don’t run fast like sheets, this could be an economical solution. Allen brothers for example in the uk have thimbles at incredible prices compared to a proper block able to hold the same load.
@@frederickwood9116 The modern friction rings are great. I would not worry about the concerns in option one the dyneema will run though it without issue without lubrication. I have seen them used on cascaded back stays, jib pulleys and many other use cases. The only place I have not seen them is on main sheet systems where most boats have stuck with pulleys, the will run better in this use case under light laod.
It would be, with that said after moderate load any knot will be hard to untie. It would also reduce the breaking strength of the shackle which is variable depending on the size of the knot. This may or may not be an issue depending on the strength of the rope and the use case.
@@BottomUPBoats Yes, as for over tightening, the running end of a Figure Eight is unloaded, and as for weakening the rope, the standing end of a Figure Eight is basically an over hand knot.
When you look at the break test it is not the knot that fails it is usually the connection the sits against the stopper knot that give way. With that said the size of the stopper knot does influence this. I may have to find a load cell and get to work on my next video 😁
Hey great instructional video, lots of variations. Would a clove hitch be more or less likely to weaken the shackle than the larks head is? I have used it but not under much strain, it seems good for keeping everything together when the is little to no load.
I have not been able to find anyone who has load tested the options. I have it on my list of video to make but am having issues getting the correct load testing gear. From my research on more traditional soft shackles the main contributor to the breaking load is the knot rather than the method of completing this shackle. Based off this research which is sadly not backed up with data I would say they are similar. The key is the knot, the Ashley stopper is great as it gives you a big square edge.
I saw a video. IIRC they used 3/8" line (don't quote me on that) They tested to failure around 20k-22k pounds and it was typically the line that failed not the shackle.
More to come so make sure you subscribe button to join the Bottom up Boats CREW.... There are also lots of spliced soft shackle options and soft shackle knot videos on the channel so head over there to make your hunger subside.
Bunyip , particularly what would you use these knots for?. As i have an arsenal of stoppers , why do i need these ones Sir?. Thank you for your time. Cheer’s Namaste… !!!
With the strength of modern dyneema rope many people have switched to using rope soft shackles rather than traditional metal shackles. Sailors and Climber are using rope shackles as they are lighter, stronger, cheaper in addition to being able to make them yourself. Some use cases include. Attaching halyards or sheets to your sails Attaching pulleys to fixed points on your boat Joining a tow cable to a car. Hang your hammock.
some extra securing trick: twist the strand together before tying the stop knot! open a "hole" is the twisted part insert the knot and the swisting will lock it secure
Any data to back up all these clams? I know from other videos that the simple overhand knot slips so soft shackles based on them are not particurally strong. I have only tested diamond and button knots myself.
I have not got around to load testing these, may be a job for the winter. The shackle strength is linked to the knot you use, with strength increasing with a large square edge on the base of the knot. If you were looking for the strongest I would guess that the ashley stopper knot will give you the best results.
Allen, Check out the HowNot2 chanel. I think you would particulary enjoy it. They did a sailing series as well. BTW, I've been enjoying you mast climbing videos. I just moved up to a 28' Yankee with a keel stepped mast, so I'll be taking some trips to the top this spring.
@@daveopincarne3718 good luck with the new boat. Lots of other option to consider both spliced and with knots in this playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLMoCfFBA9IMXC6P0b6Ql8822sZnthEYfk.html
Any time, these shackles can be used in most applications that you would use a traditional metal shackle. The are lighter, cheaper and with modern rope the can be stronger than their metal cousins. They have the added advantage of causing less damage your boat, spars or humans in use cases where they may be flapping around.
I would strongly advise the use of these on an anchor chain snubber instead of using a stainless steel chain hook. I was astonished at the damage a stainless hook can do, and how bent it was when it jammed in our bow roller. The hook was destroyed in a split second and fired off the roller like a missile ripping the cheek plate sideways. If the pulpit bars had been open fronted the hook would have hit the winch operator. Only takes one wave for the winch operator to make a mistake.
Well if that is 8 MMprusik cord breaking strenght is 4000 lbs single strand 8 000lbs double strand minus 50% for the knot. Last and final knot is a girth hitch. All the above info is basen on my knowledge from rope rescue classes
I think I got bogged on both ends of the same rope forming a loop and forgot about two ropes joining with an easy disconnect, and so I couldn't at first apply it. Cheers to the comment section 👍
The comments on this post are great. They really help me think about content that viewers want to see. This video started as a discussion in another one of my videos. After talking about soft shackles with a viewer I was inspired to crest this update 👍
@@BottomUPBoats Makes for great paracord carabiner substitutes! As strong as most non-climbing carabiners. I figure it at 70% of the line breaking strength at a guess. At 50% it would still be more than 250 lbs on 550 paracord.
The Ashley in 1/2" line requires careful dressing to lock the knot itself up tightly. Nice and big tho. With the Lark's Head being used, I wonder how big of a knot is really needed to stop it.
Yes you need to be careful with the Ashley stopper knot and how you finish it. With that said big is beautiful when it comes to stopper knots on soft shackles. Research shows that the size and finish of the knot contribute to the breaking load. Most will break on or around the knot, I don't thing the larks head has a big impact. I have not personally load tested these, maybe that's an idea for an upcoming video !
. The larger the radiuses in the stopper knot the stronger the final result same with the bight end, if it is wrapping around 4 lines it will be stronger than if only 2 are at the neck of the shackle. Takehome is large bend radius translates to near full line strength.
The shackle is the loop that you create with the stopper knot, think of this as the U shape object in a traditional shackle. Think of the various finishes as the pin of a traditional metal shackle. If you put the bite end through the two objects you want to join, for example a pulley to a saddle on a boat or a tow cable to a towing point of a car, then finish it to lock it off.
Thanks for the feedback. These can be used to replace metal shackles across a variety of use cases. With the strength of modern rope the dynemma version can be even stronger than the metal alternatives. On boats, for towing cars, while climbing, just about anywhere you need to join two things together.
Another options. If you want even more ideas and top tips take a look at the second video we put together from the best comment from this video. ua-cam.com/video/92HSoVxL0-Y/v-deo.html
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](/img/n.gif)
Nailed it, another great demo, thanks for showing us the Ashley Stopper Knot .... great use for it with the double braided rope soft shackle, might have to dust of the old copy of Ashley's book of knots and see what else I might have missed in the ole bible
Thanks again ! I am sure Clifford could not have imaged what a soft shackle was when he was writing his book in the 1930's and 40's, as with many things these days the rate of change just gets faster and faster. If he could have looked this far ahead I am sure that his failed attempt to tie what turned out to be a swollen figure 8 which he saw on an old fishing boat would have been at the top of the list for this use case.
I tried quite a few stoppers with this method of soft shackle, the Ashley or Oyster stopper knot proved to be the best hence the recommendation as as the first choice option in the video.
For anyone reading this who does not have Ashely's Book of Knots the team at Bottom Up Boats can highly recommend picking up a copy, first published in 1944 it is still the "Knot Bible" for many (including us), see the link below for details :-
amzn.to/3aHNe52
As an amazon associate we get commission from associated sales. We really appreciate the support that this programs gives us, as a small You Tube channel programs like this enable us to create more content for you !!
@@BottomUPBoats I picked up ABOT several years ago. Hammock rigging got me started.
Converted my trimaran to synthetic rigging a couple of years ago. I went with the splices to avoid the loss in strength from the bends in knots. After looking at the safe working load for my Dynema, reducing it by half is still well within range. Your knotted shackles would require about one tenth of the time it takes me to splice a shackle, and the dimensions aren't nearly as critical. Your shackles can also be produced more easily on the fly or under way.
@@wisenber totally agree. Modern dynemma rope takes the breaking strains to new levels reducing the need for splicing in many use cases. You will be set for next time when you need to replace the work you did :)
@@BottomUPBoats мкнига узлов Эшли
@seanbeckerer5089 You could think of them just like their name suggests ...... an alternative to a metal shackle, clip or carabeena. Yes some corded braclets use the same principle to connect them as soft shackles
Excellent, simple, and best video explaining how to make a soft shackle!!! Thank you for posting.
Thanks for stopping by, glad you liked it !!!
Easy-to-follow explanation and no fluff. Great video!
Thanks the fab feedback. Comments like this inspire us to do more 👍👍👍
Great knots! Looks so simple and effective 😊No need to make other complicated and expensive soft shackles like other UA-camrs is showing!
You’re welcome 😊
Very useful, yes. However, the other "complicated and expensive" soft shackles made from dyneema with appropriate splices and knots for that line are much much stronger.
@@tanguerochaslike 10x+ stronger.
Nice. I've already made three soft shackles to use since seeing your video. Thanks.
Nice work ! It is always nice to be able to create one of the spliced options we demo on the channel. This however is a great place to start !!!!
Which is your favourite ?
We love the Ashely Stopper with the Larks Head to lock it off it looks great and works well too :)
Amazing! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for stopping by and engaging !!
Thank you. I need to make soft hanks and this is the way.
Glad it was helpful!
😊Thanks for sharing 😊 Take care 😊
No Problem. Thanks for stopping by and for taking the time to leave some feedback.
Thank you. This is all o need right now!
It is a great addition to any sailors bag of tricks :)
Great video. Thank you for the tips
Glad you liked it. Thanks for stopping by and engaging 👍
So clear...thanks
Glad it was helpful !!! Thanks for stopping by and leaving some feedback. It inspires us to keep creating :)
Fantastic 👏
Thank you 😎⛵
Glad you liked it, thanks for stopping by and for the feedback 👍
Brilliant and thank you
Not a problem, thanks for stopping by and leaving some love !!!!
Fantastico! La tecnica che mi piace di più è l'ultima con il nodo Ashley di arresto e la bocca di lupo . Un sistema rapido ed efficacissimo per realizzare un ottimo soft shackles ! Bravi !
Totalmente d'accordo sul fatto che il nodo stopper Ashley e il cordino sono la selezione migliore dei grilli morbidi da 10 secondi. Grazie per essere passato e aver lasciato il tuo feedback
This is an excellent video, very well done! I don’t need a $50.00 Soft Shackle around our property, just something that I can make a quick connect and pull a medium weight load with.
Glad it was helpful! Sounds like the option we shared are perfect for your use case and can be made with less than 1 metre of any spare rope you have..
Glad it was helpful !
Sounds like you have found a solution to your problem that can be solved with any 1 metre for rope that you have lying around....
Gracias , excelente.!!!!explicacion
Glad you like the content. Thanks for stopping by and for taking the time to comment.
Good video. I would have liked to see relevant applications included.
Thanks for the feedback, I think you have just given the title for my next video. I will see what I can do to show you how we use then. We use them to attach sheets and halyards to sails, blocks fixing points, the list of what you can do is just about endless.
Thanks a lot ⛵😃
No worries! Glad you found value in the video
Nice one. I've also been experimenting and demonstrating variations of soft shackles and will soon put up a vid of destruction tests of all different variations. Happy to add your methods and tag you if you then want to tag or share that vid.
Would love to watch the output. Thanks for stopping by.
GOOD INFO...👍👍👍💪💪...THANKS...👌👌
Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback. Glad you liked it !!!!
A 2 strand diamond knot makes a better looking, very symetrical stopper knot
Yep that is one of the best but a little hard to pull one off in ten seconds.
ua-cam.com/video/zRf3mEH63NI/v-deo.html
groso, gran video, graciaass
Gracias por pasarte, me alegra que te haya gustado!!!
wonderfull !
Glad you liked it !
That about sums it up. Subscribed!
Thanks for stopping by and joining the crew :)
Einfach herrlich ❤❤❤
Tatsächlich ist es
That was good schit-especially the last one.
Will it work with dyneema?
Yes we did leave the best to last. This is my personal favourite too. It will work with dyneema, with that said I would suggest using some of the other spliced versions demonstrated on the channel if you have the time.
I know all of these knots but till I saw this video I had never even heard of a soft shackle, so useful! Thank you I've definitely learnt something today. Keep it up mate.
Thanks for stopping by and and glad you found it useful. Everyday is a school day, even better when you can learn something that takes something old and makes it new.
Please like and share with others who might find it useful, this helps this great platform get the word out and about with others.
Did he just show about 7 different knots or am I losing my mind? Could have sworn he ended with "number 4" but also pretty sure I saw more knots than that.
Either way, great video. Easy to follow and also entertaining, and that's tough to do.
Thanks for stopping and leaving some feedback. Glad you liked it 👍
Frank bush shows a type of soft shackle that is quick release. To see it look up frank bushes rapid ridgeline.
Thanks for stopping by and for sharing some other options, i will be sure to take a look.
Can you use these with dyneema?
yep, works on both single and double braided rope including Dyneema.
For tubular spectra or dyneema I would use a different construction method than a knotted loop.
Instead of making a loop and throwing a cow hitch over, just tie a knot on each end of a single length and then put the loose ends together and then throw cow hitch over, this way you still have a short length of cordage for other jobs than just a soft shackle.
Thats what i do.
Great idea !!!!
I will be giving this one ago. Same outcome using less rope.
Will have a lighter breaking load which should not be an issue for most add hoc use cases
@@BottomUPBoats if I want a soft shackle of a particular size I use the cow hitch as normal and with the loose ends I tie a Espalier knot or a surgeons knot, the latter of the two of what I use mostly and it never moves.
@@zchuss1 cool, I will give it a go !
@@BottomUPBoats let me know how you get on.
What are these good for?
Any time, these shackles can be used in most applications that you would use a traditional metal shackle. They are lighter, cheaper and with modern rope the can be stronger than their metal cousins.
They have the added advantage of causing less damage your boat, spars or humans in use cases where they may be flapping around .
Have these been tested for strength?
I’ve have not tested them, need to find a load cell so we can make the Video
just a question:
what is the application for this soft shackles?
on boats they can now be used in most places traditional shackles are used, fixing pulleys to fixed points, sails to sheets or halyards to name a few.
Climbers also use then in place of metal options as they are light and have high breaking loads if made out of modern rope.
They are also big with 4X4 users, much safer to winch with these as if the cable breaks you don't have bits of metal flying around.
Will these work with dyneema ?
How do you think the breaking strain compares to the bury methods.
The breaking strain will be less, the primary reason for this is the bury give you 4 widths where the rope exits the knot into the main body of the shackle. Secondary reason for the reduced strength will be the methods for doing the lock, the knot based locks will also reduce the breaking strain.
For there reason we recommend the burry method if you have the time. These are great if you only have double braid or need to get something done in a hurry.
Finally yes there will work with dyneema, I am going to have to do some break tests to get data to confirm the variation in the strength of the various options.
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Layk
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Xasusu
Daawasho wacan ilaa aad xasuusato
Awesome thanks. 👍🍻 @sailingpopeye
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Is he taking the piss? The last one is the only one I would trust
Trust level depends on the use case, I was going to use to keep me connected while climb I totally agree that the last one would be my preferred option.
With that said there are thousands of use cases which the early models could be used for.
I hope no one tries using this for any sort of recovery...this is not a good idea for recovering a vehicle or boat or anything.
The video is about doing them quickly, the use case is always up to the user. With that in mind I agree and choose other options for critical use cases.
Diamond knot ain’t that hard to tie.
True, with that said it usually takes me a little than 10 seconds to tie a good one.
ua-cam.com/video/zRf3mEH63NI/v-deo.html
Ashley Stopper and lark's head is quick and strong. Thanks for that.
Yep, left the best to last in the demo. The Larks Head & Ashley Stopper knot combo is still made in seconds but is bullet proof.
agreed!!!!
Excellent, I just learnt something very useful and still remember it because of the simplicity of the knot. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful !
Which was you favourite ?
I can not got past the Ashely Stopper knot version, round end creates a great locking point for the shackle.
@@BottomUPBoats the fourth knot is great. Wonder if the knot will slip under high tension.
@@vxphan2601 you should have no issues with this one slipping. If you are going to put it under extended periods of long loads it is always good to pre load them prior to putting them in place. With that said you should be a OK once it is in place.
Excellent video. So simple and direct. Thank you for this. Jim.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to share your feedback 👍
I tried another variant: the Ashley stopper (ABoK #526) for the knob and the Tag noose (ABoK #1126) for the clamp - seems it may be (even) more slack shake proof than the Lark Head and doesn't fall apart when the shackle is opened.
The joys of a Sunday afternoon with ABoK, will have to check out the Tog noose and give it a go. Thanks for sharing some great options
First time on your channel, and I'm not a sailor, but that was on of the best instructional videos I've seen on YT.
Glad you found it useful, lots of use cases for these quick and easy soft shackles, both on and off the water.
Appreciate the feedback, it is always nice to get comments like the one you shared :)
Very nice. How does the strength compare to a spliced shackle?
To get the max strength with a spliced shackle you need to finish it with 4 widths of rope past the stopper knot with a simple loop to hold it in place. This can result in a braking strength 230% of the base rope.
I have not tested these but it will be a lot less, with only two widths and the knots to finish them off (which could be the weakest point) I would suggest it would be similar or slightly below the strength one width of rope.
I am going to have to find someone with an load cell so I can run some actual comparisons for these...
I just want to know why cordage solutions are referred to as knots (funny talk for WRONGS) instead of yeps (funny talk for corrects).
That's all I want to know.
There is only one place to go to get the answer to this one......
Page 12 of Ashely's book of knots !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
amzn.to/3fkisle
The word KNOT has three distinct meanings in common use. In its broadest sense it applies to all complications in cordage, except accidental ones, such as snarls and kinks, and complications adapted for storage, such as coils, hanks, skeins, balls, etc.
In its second sense it does not include bends, hitches, splices and sinnets, and in its third and narrowest sense the term applies only to a knob tied in a rope to prevent unreeving, to provide a handhold, or (in small material only) to prevent fraying.
I have been using an overhand knot with the through and over method for about 5 years daily to carry my water bottle at work. I have about a half dozen soft shackles that I use in this method and I never have had any failures or lost items due to coming apart. I actually use heat shrink tubing to keep the shackles shaped up and tight. The best part about this method is they are easy to use even with gloves on.
Thanks for stopping by and for sharing. Totally agree with you comment and like the add of the shrink tubing, I will have to give that one a go 👍🏼
How did I knot know this??? Omg this was silly simple and I love it!!
Thank you, I learned a ton!!!😊
Glad it was helpful ! the simplest things in life are often the best :)
You have three third ways, and two final ways of doing it. That's impressive.
Always good to have a few options 👍
Very good. Now show us how to make simple hand restraints please.🤗
Very similar to these just a some fluffy padding once finished
Question for #4 instead of a Larks head/Cow hitch would a Bull hitch be better? Great video and Subscribed....
Thanks for stopping by and for joining the crew. I had not considered the Bull Hitch, thinking it about it is obvious that they both can do the job. The Bull Hitch is slightly more secure due to the cross over in the main part of the hitch. While I have not tested it my first impressions are this will make it harder to undo after load has been applied, if this is the case I would stick with the Cow Hitch. With that said it is up to you, both will do a good job.
@@BottomUPBoatsDarn good point, my first thought it would be more secure and less likely to loosen if bounced around.
Getting it undo might be an issue...
@@mistastabs5840 the shackles tend to stay locked even after light load. If you are worried about them come undone you can loop a Velcro strip around the knot end to keep it neat and tidy
You can treat the loop end as you would to change a Lark's Head into a Bullock Hitch.
Under a 6:30 video could have saved me hours of cutting and splicing.
Always good to know both ways, with that said these do a great job if you are in a hurry. Thanks for stopping by and engaging.
@@BottomUPBoats I can remember how to do yours a lot easier, and yours don't require measuring half a dozen times. I'll still be splicing my slings and loops.
Glad to have helped you out !!!
Идеально завтра куплю хорошую веревку и свяжу себе Шакл спасибо
Отлично, желаю вам успехов в освоении нового навыка. Обязательно вернитесь, чтобы узнать по ходу видео.
Ashely and then 1:30..
A really good combo which get s you a quick shackle which is easy to untie. Thanks for stopping by and engaging on our post !
Yep. The Ashley and Larks is clutch. Works amazing!!!!
Now it's So easy to put my soft shackles inside the tarp pouch and I can attach my tarp to my ridge line without any sticks or twigs.
One of if not the best option. Glad you found the video useful !!!
Will this work with dynema
100 %
Figure 8 the bitter ends together
Lark's Head over the stopper
Done
Yep, I am sure that beginners could have that down pat and under 10 seconds with a couple practise runs
@@BottomUPBoats lol
Нормально...! И не надо покупать..
99 / 5,000
Translation results
Translation result
Да, отличный вариант, зачем платить большие деньги за то, что можно сделать за считанные секунды с любым типом веревки.
Xsusuu
Xasusu
Daawasho wacan ilaa aad xasuusato
Thanks for an awesome video, well explained and demonstrated. Subscribe
Thanks for stopping by and joining THE bottoms up boats CREW.
Excellent video! I gave my rope a planetary twist and it made a very neat shackle. I even made one out of 1/16 cord for a keychain.
That is awesome !
Unlimited options once you have figured out how to make these bad boys ...
@@BottomUPBoats Thanks again for the inspiration! Here is my twist on it: ua-cam.com/video/OGeq2BrS2t0/v-deo.html
People search another channel and learn how to make a real soft shackle.
As per the names these are meant to be quick and easy. If you did search hopefully you end up back in the same place as we have lots of REAL options for you to try too.
ua-cam.com/play/PLMoCfFBA9IMXC6P0b6Ql8822sZnthEYfk.html
@@BottomUPBoats How many quick and easy solutions end up being a root cause of disaster? I wouldn't use these ANYWHERE in my rigging on any boat larger than an Optimist. Sorry, but these are just not equivalent to a dyneema S.S. or a metal shackle. If these fail on a 12' day sailor, no real problem, but on a 22' boat? A 30'?
@@daveopincarne3718 we have lots of other options on the channel that I agree are better for heavy duty options. We use these as temporary or if you need a loop in a hurry.
@@BottomUPBoats That's great to hear. But I'm still concerned that, based on other user's comments, that their lack of knowledge about soft shackles could lead to catastrophic consiquences. I suggest you clarify that these should only be used as utility items and not for technichal applications.
Great information that a guy or girl can use, thank you
Indeed it is. Glad you liked it 👍
Great video.
Thanks for stopping by, glad you like it !!!
Thanks for the great video, which is also great for absolute non-sailors and amateurs!
I have a question: How can I weld the cut end of the cordage without a large tool so that it doesn't split open here?
I think you are asking how to stop the cut end of the rope from fraying. If this is the case, it is best to cut the rope with a hot night or use a lighter to heat the rope, some of the fibres will melt which harden when it cools. This will stop any fraying.
Hopefully this answers your question.
@@BottomUPBoats Thank you so much!
Excellent
Glad you found our content valuable 👍
Nice and simple. It’s timeless too.
Thanks for sharing.
Our pleasure ! As you said these are timeless and can be made in seconds from even the shortest bit of spare rope !
@@BottomUPBoats Something that is intriguing me recently and you guys might be the people to poke at this topic too. It is the low friction rings or thimbles that are available now.
I’m only starting to play with them recently. I’m looking for a way to use them “backwards”. Run the running line around the outside and the fixed shackle line through the middle. This, I’m hoping, will give the running line less friction (or more leverage to overcome the friction) of the inner line and also give less of a tight angle on the running line. It takes the thimble one step closer to being a block replacement for some things.
There are two hiccups I’m imagining so far.
1. The big catch is that the shackle running in the middle gets a lot of friction in one spot.
Possibly dyneema is hard enough wearing to not be a worry for a long time !! It’s basically using dyneema as a bearing. There may be lubrication options to help out here. Or sheathing options too. !
2. The other is finding an elegant way to keep the running line “in the block” when the line is slack.
There might be a nice way to bring a loose loop around the ring with the soft shackle or another little line, to act as a “keep it in place “ type catch to hold the running line.
If you have thought about this and found solutions then please do share. This approach would never completely replace a good block but in many situations (outhalls, Cunningham purchase systems, kickers /boom vangs, etc) where things need strength but don’t run fast like sheets, this could be an economical solution. Allen brothers for example in the uk have thimbles at incredible prices compared to a proper block able to hold the same load.
@@frederickwood9116 The modern friction rings are great. I would not worry about the concerns in option one the dyneema will run though it without issue without lubrication.
I have seen them used on cascaded back stays, jib pulleys and many other use cases.
The only place I have not seen them is on main sheet systems where most boats have stuck with pulleys, the will run better in this use case under light laod.
Спасибо большое, всё чётко и понятно!
Рада, что понравилось, спасибо, что заглянули
A quick and easy to remember soft shackle, excellent!
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you found the demo useful 👍
Maybe after it was loaded, a Figure 8 would be easier to undo than an over hand?
(2 out of the 62 comments are mine = I appreciate this video 👍)
It would be, with that said after moderate load any knot will be hard to untie. It would also reduce the breaking strength of the shackle which is variable depending on the size of the knot. This may or may not be an issue depending on the strength of the rope and the use case.
@@BottomUPBoats Yes, as for over tightening, the running end of a Figure Eight is unloaded, and as for weakening the rope, the standing end of a Figure Eight is basically an over hand knot.
When you look at the break test it is not the knot that fails it is usually the connection the sits against the stopper knot that give way. With that said the size of the stopper knot does influence this. I may have to find a load cell and get to work on my next video 😁
Hey great instructional video, lots of variations. Would a clove hitch be more or less likely to weaken the shackle than the larks head is? I have used it but not under much strain, it seems good for keeping everything together when the is little to no load.
I have not been able to find anyone who has load tested the options. I have it on my list of video to make but am having issues getting the correct load testing gear. From my research on more traditional soft shackles the main contributor to the breaking load is the knot rather than the method of completing this shackle.
Based off this research which is sadly not backed up with data I would say they are similar. The key is the knot, the Ashley stopper is great as it gives you a big square edge.
Suspect break load would be very similar with larks head/clove hitch however if it's been heavily loaded the larks head should be easier to undo.
It would be interesting to see those tested for breaking strength.
It is on my list of videos to make, need to get my hands on a digital load test and we will get it out there
If that happens, I may also be interesting to see how easy to untie different shackles may be after being subjected to sizable tension.
@@maciejtomczak3785 will be interesting to test this out. Some of the more heavy duty options will be hard it not impossible to undo
I saw a video. IIRC they used 3/8" line (don't quote me on that) They tested to failure around 20k-22k pounds and it was typically the line that failed not the shackle.
@sideswipe147 thanks for sharing 👍
Great demo 👍
Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback, glad you liked it !!!
Would you trust these soft shackles on a hammock suspension? They would have to hold a person's weight. 200 - 300 lbs.
100%
#4
Is one of our favourites too.
Wonderful! Thanks :)
Thanks for stopping by, glad you liked it 👍
Great stuff shown here! I feel hungry for more :)
More to come so make sure you subscribe button to join the Bottom up Boats CREW.... There are also lots of spliced soft shackle options and soft shackle knot videos on the channel so head over there to make your hunger subside.
Bunyip , particularly what would you use these knots for?. As i have an arsenal of stoppers , why do i need these ones Sir?. Thank you for your time. Cheer’s Namaste… !!!
With the strength of modern dyneema rope many people have switched to using rope soft shackles rather than traditional metal shackles. Sailors and Climber are using rope shackles as they are lighter, stronger, cheaper in addition to being able to make them yourself.
Some use cases include.
Attaching halyards or sheets to your sails
Attaching pulleys to fixed points on your boat
Joining a tow cable to a car.
Hang your hammock.
That was great! Thanks a million, I'll be messing about with these for sure.
Lots of options which can all be done in seconds 👍
@@BottomUPBoats thanks.
Очень круто! Спасибо огромное! Thаnk you very much!
Thanks for stopping by, glad you liked it !
@@BottomUPBoats I didn't just like it, I borrowed a couple of ideas that I didn't know before. Thank you sincerely!
some extra securing trick: twist the strand together before tying the stop knot! open a "hole" is the twisted part insert the knot and the swisting will lock it secure
Thanks for sharing, I will have to give that a go.
I was looking for this everywhere thanks
Glad you found it here. Thanks for stopping by !
Cool soft shackle. Thanks for showing how to make them.
Weekend Stuff
Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback. It inspires us to do more.
Any data to back up all these clams? I know from other videos that the simple overhand knot slips so soft shackles based on them are not particurally strong. I have only tested diamond and button knots myself.
I have not got around to load testing these, may be a job for the winter. The shackle strength is linked to the knot you use, with strength increasing with a large square edge on the base of the knot. If you were looking for the strongest I would guess that the ashley stopper knot will give you the best results.
Allen, Check out the HowNot2 chanel. I think you would particulary enjoy it. They did a sailing series as well.
BTW, I've been enjoying you mast climbing videos. I just moved up to a 28' Yankee with a keel stepped mast, so I'll be taking some trips to the top this spring.
@@daveopincarne3718 good luck with the new boat. Lots of other option to consider both spliced and with knots in this playlist.
ua-cam.com/play/PLMoCfFBA9IMXC6P0b6Ql8822sZnthEYfk.html
@@daveopincarne3718 Hi Dave,
Thanks for the comment. Good to hear from you.
Thanks very much for your demonstration ! When do we need this ?
Any time, these shackles can be used in most applications that you would use a traditional metal shackle. The are lighter, cheaper and with modern rope the can be stronger than their metal cousins.
They have the added advantage of causing less damage your boat, spars or humans in use cases where they may be flapping around.
I would strongly advise the use of these on an anchor chain snubber instead of using a stainless steel chain hook. I was astonished at the damage a stainless hook can do, and how bent it was when it jammed in our bow roller. The hook was destroyed in a split second and fired off the roller like a missile ripping the cheek plate sideways. If the pulpit bars had been open fronted the hook would have hit the winch operator. Only takes one wave for the winch operator to make a mistake.
Well if that is 8 MMprusik cord breaking strenght is 4000 lbs single strand 8 000lbs double strand minus 50% for the knot. Last and final knot is a girth hitch. All the above info is basen on my knowledge from rope rescue classes
Yep it is an easy way to double the load less the knot, getting you a super strong shackle for just about any use case in seconds.
I think I got bogged on both ends of the same rope forming a loop and forgot about two ropes joining with an easy disconnect, and so I couldn't at first apply it.
Cheers to the comment section 👍
The comments on this post are great. They really help me think about content that viewers want to see. This video started as a discussion in another one of my videos. After talking about soft shackles with a viewer I was inspired to crest this update 👍
👍👍👍
Any strength comparisons to the diamond and button knot versions? To the ones that use a brummel splice loop?
I have not down any, hope to try and build a test rig this winter to take some.
It will be less but still ok for most use cases with modern rope.
@@BottomUPBoats Makes for great paracord carabiner substitutes! As strong as most non-climbing carabiners. I figure it at 70% of the line breaking strength at a guess. At 50% it would still be more than 250 lbs on 550 paracord.
The Ashley in 1/2" line requires careful dressing to lock the knot itself up tightly. Nice and big tho. With the Lark's Head being used, I wonder how big of a knot is really needed to stop it.
Yes you need to be careful with the Ashley stopper knot and how you finish it. With that said big is beautiful when it comes to stopper knots on soft shackles. Research shows that the size and finish of the knot contribute to the breaking load. Most will break on or around the knot, I don't thing the larks head has a big impact. I have not personally load tested these, maybe that's an idea for an upcoming video !
. The larger the radiuses in the stopper knot the stronger the final result same with the bight end, if it is wrapping around 4 lines it will be stronger than if only 2 are at the neck of the shackle.
Takehome is large bend radius translates to near full line strength.
So...
What is the "Shackle" and what I got to do with it?
The shackle is the loop that you create with the stopper knot, think of this as the U shape object in a traditional shackle. Think of the various finishes as the pin of a traditional metal shackle. If you put the bite end through the two objects you want to join, for example a pulley to a saddle on a boat or a tow cable to a towing point of a car, then finish it to lock it off.
@@BottomUPBoats
Thank you. Now I got to go... You know, towing boats or something :)
@@greenhat7742 ...and maybe shackling stuff..
Hola 👋 una consulta
Cuanto soportaría con un cordin de 8 o cuerda de 10 mm
Muchas gracias
Estos no los he probado. La fuerza del nudo será el factor limitante, supongo que se romperán según la carga de la abrazadera que sepas que usas.
Nice demo, but what would this knot be used for? Is it used on boats?
Thanks for the feedback. These can be used to replace metal shackles across a variety of use cases. With the strength of modern rope the dynemma version can be even stronger than the metal alternatives. On boats, for towing cars, while climbing, just about anywhere you need to join two things together.
Becoming a popular way to attach hammock tree straps together too.
@@hubey the use cases are only limited by your imagination. 👍
@@hubey nice one, the use cases are nearly endless if you put your mind to it.
Good question thanks..
Good answers too,thanks again.
I was taught and therefore know that last knot as a "larks 'foot' not 'head'" as it shows the action of a birds foot grasping a stick.
Had not heard that one before, thanks for sharing !
What superb demonstration. Much Thanks !
Thanks for stopping by. Glad you liked it 👍
You didn’t mention the figure of eight stopper not which is quick and easy.
Another options. If you want even more ideas and top tips take a look at the second video we put together from the best comment from this video.
ua-cam.com/video/92HSoVxL0-Y/v-deo.html
I liked this presentation, but I did get a sense of Bob Ross.
LOL if you could see a picture of my sons hair it would make you laugh. I think I am going to take this comment as a complement 👍
If I want to secure anything properly I use a Rosendahl Bend to create a loop.
Thanks for sharing I will have to give that one a go...