how did ridgid get away with this?
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After using the Ridgid R4560 for about 10 months now, I wanted to share my thoughts about the saw. The Ridgid 4560 is the newest 2021 professional 10 inch cast iron table saw offering from Ridgid. I got a pre-production model of the Ridgid R4560 and after using it for tons and tons of projects, I've got some in-depth details that will help you decide if this saw is right for you in this long term review!
Anyway, I hope you enjoy this one and as always, let me know what you'd like to see next! Tag me @SpencleyDesignCo on Instagram so I can check any of your builds!
*DISCLAIMERS: Some of the above links are affiliate links. This costs you absolutely nothing, but pays me a small commission and helps me continue to create this FREE content.
#tablesaw #woodworking #toolreview
Thanks for checking the video out, and I hope you enjoyed my Ridgid 4560 review
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Since this is a Delta clone, all the UA-cam videos on calibration and adjustment of the 36-725 and T2 are applicable. I have found a ton of useful info from these videos, especially on leveling the steel extension wings by attaching them to the rails only first, getting them level much easier, then attaching them to the cast iron. There is more stuff on squaring the blade to the miter slot by adjusting the set screws in the back of the saw. Stuff you will never find in the manual or on the website.
I wouldn’t call it a “Clone”, it is manufactured by Delta so it is the same saw with a different branding/color.
@@DownloaderVideo so…. A clone
PS. I'm sure someone has mentioned, and as per your test, that switch *CAN NOT* remain on when not powered. It's a powered-on magnetic switch. You're fine unplugging it.
Just commented on the other video. Pretty sure it has low voltage protection. In fact i think there is an electrical code rule about it.
If you haven’t figured it out yet, the “flip down thing” on the fence isn’t for cutting on the other side of the fence. It’s so you can move the fence over the open area, the space next to the table surface but still reachable by the fence, and cut thin sheet goods without them bending and going under the fence; it perfectly matches the height of the table when flipped down.
I like how the knobs still have the delta triangles in the center.
Peanuts! Good review, only thing I disagree with is the power switch. I like having these magnetic safety switches. The fact that you can’t see if the saw is on is irrelevant because the saw is only on when you press the switch with it plugged in. With no power to the saw, the power switch doesn’t actually switch.
Thanks, for watching Stephen! I understand how the magnetic switch works, but I still don’t like it. I like that tactile feedback on tools. The button is super soft and mushy
@@SpencleyDesignCo Dude, you're just being picky! (Peanuts, BTW)
I have the equivalent Delta and I agree the adjustment are a total PITA. I work in my basement (though it is a walkout) but also don't have room or the ability to move a 900lb sawstop
The adjustments on this saw are BRUTAL 🤯
I think you should definitely do more tools reviews. I like this style where you've clearly given it some proper use and know all the aspects whether they are good and bad, and it all seems fair. You shouldn't put yourself down, though! You have built up a ton of skills, experience and peanuts so your reviews would carry some weight. I can't really lend too much credence to other reviews that are really no more than unboxing videos and a quick whirl of the tool along with a handy link to a 5% off.
I appreciate the feedback, Stephen!
My man you're too good when it comes to reviewing, you don't left the stone on top of the other. Keep up the good work, I'm appreciating you here from South Africa
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have the Delta 36-725T2, which I have heard delta is the manufacturer of this saw and these are practically the same saw.
Because of that, I wanted to give you what I found for something I want to do to my saw as a future upgrade, which may make your use and enjoyment of your own saw more pleasurable.
Materials:
74” square steel fence post (2” x 2”)
72” steel angle iron (1.5” x 1.5”, 1/8” thick)
12’ Fastcap reversible stick on tape measure
What he did was buy some L stock and a 2x2 metal fence post, then drilled the holes as needed, that way to both extend out the saw and to make them a single piece. That seems like a great way to upgrade the saw as a DIY project after the initial buy in.
Loved the video, just wanted to share that idea with you.
Cool! Thanks for the upgrade ideas
Delta offered a version of this saw, based on the first 36-725, which came with one-piece rails, actually (and a slightly upgraded fence), the 36-5000.
The one piece rails would be a massive upgrade!
Nice review. You should do more tool reviews. Regarding the switch on your new saw, this is the type of switch you will get with most higher power, higher quality saws. Only the cheaper jobsite type saws have the purely mechanical switch you had on your old saw. The switch on the new saw is a magnetic switch and is a big safety improvement. It prevents your saw from powering up after an unexpected outage, blown breaker, or other power interruption.
Hey! Long time woodworker, and I love watching tool review videos in addition to your woodworking videos. It gives me insight to whether problems that may arise for you will be problems for me. I see tool reviews all the time and people mention problems they ran into, but we don't make the same types of things and there may use the same tool differently. In short, knowing what I want to make and how I want to make it will largely be determined by videos of things I see being made and the tools I see people using. YES PLEASE to to the tool review videos!
The switch is a magnetic switch meant to disconnect when the power fails or is disconnected to keep the motor from powering up when power is restored or plug back on, is a safety feature
Bought a Ridgid 4510 Jobsite saw in a yard sale... I have a small Garage/Shop area. It was used for rough work framing and such... I changed the blade, added zero insert, Dado so I could do cabinet grade work. I also have a shop smith and have done a lot of projects over the years, its truly a very small shop tool for a hobbyist woodworker. Back to the 4510... the Fence sucks always checking it and rechecking it... I attribute it to technology, when the 4510 was introduced few were thinking rack in pinion fences.... kinda like when I was in the Marines... "Suck it up Marine it's just gunfire"... Now couple of decades latter we all of us have tinnitus and hearing loss! Yes, I do wear ear protection in the shop!!! Good review, I watch 2 to 3 You tubes on woodworking every morning with my coffee, started with the covid shut down so I know a good reviewer when I see one! You do a good job and I haven't turned you off... that's a good review... ***** five stars. For Christmas I got a Track Saw and a 4X8 Centipede so I can cut 4x8 sheets ... that is where wood working is headed. Table saw still important but for plywood work Track Saw is the way to go... Keep up the good work enjoy the videos!
The riving knife looks to use Allen (hex) bolts, with a ball end on the wrench (key), it should be accessible, as it doesn't look to be too steep an angle, but I would use a ratchet anyways, with a wobble extension or universal joint. It might make it easier for you than trying to get at it with a straight tool.
I really like my R4560. I bought a 52in fence for a delta 5000 and retro fit it on. I was hoping it would just bolt on but I did have to drill some new holes but it works flawless
Peanuts...I went from a Ryobi jobsite saw to the Ridgid R4520. I'm super happy with my purchase.
Really enjoyed the review on this one. Not looking for a new saw, but I was interested in seeing this one. Yeah, keep doing reviews! Enjoy the channel, brother.
Thank you very much, Tony!
PEANUTS: Just watched this and your previous video about this saw in lead to to likely buying one of these.
20 years ago my first table saw was the equivalent of this from that time. Then i sold it and moved around the world for years. Just get back into woodworking, so I'm so stoked!
"Peanuts" Just a quick thought on the switch when you are changing a blade, Cut a small dowel put velcro tape on the end to hold it to the side of the switch mech then using the lock out feature place the dowel ping into the lock out holes, there you have your visual conformation that the switch is off.
As far as the play in the fence, you need to adjust the 2 screws under the fence to stop the sloppiness. I have a Delta 36-725 T2 (same saw) and had the same issue.
I tried that and then it became impossible to lock down. Maybe I need to take another look at it
Peanuts, great video and thorough review. These have been available at home depot since early september or so, i bought one in early november last year after watching your first review. One thing worth mentioning about this saw is that while it does run on a standard 15 amp outlet, it needs its own dedicated circuit as it drains up to 16 amps when it starts up. If youre running dust collection or a shop vac, it has to be on a different outlet connected to a seperate circuit at the breaker box. I used it for about a month, not knowing there was a homeless guy squatting behind the building my shops in and running a mini fridge and microwave off the same circuit, and the motor completely burned out and wouldn't start up anymore. The reset button on the motor was stiff as a brick. I called ridgid and they said to just bring it back to home depot and get a new one. The staff at my local home depot were extremely friendly about the exchange and now ive got my 2nd one set up and ready to go. But im not even firing it up until i can have an electrician come out and set up a new circuit+outlet just for this saw. And like you said, dialing this thing in is a bit of a PITA, so setting up the new one was especially tedious after how long it took to dial in the first one. Not a problem everyone is going to have but its worth keeping in mind as ive read it was a common problem with the delta saw this one is a clone of too. Lots of people thought they had a defective saw, but they were really just overloading the circuit, starving the motor for power, and burning it out
Wow! That’s quite a story 🤣
Peanuts. The fence is adjustable to remove the wobble you referred to when moving the fence. There are 2 adjustment screws on the inside toward the body of the saw. Once I made that adjustment, the fence was great.
Found you because of this saw. You are a great tool reviewer. Very detailed and answered questions I didn't know I had. Please keep em coming.
Thanks Jason!
@@SpencleyDesignCo Do you know if this is an exact clone of the delta?
I’d assume it’s fairly close, but I don’t know for certain
The saw I think has electronic soft start
Hence when power plug is pulled it is always off
That’s also probably why it isn’t a huge toggle switch like the old one
It’s more like a computer power button and less like a power strip power switch
I believe all the soft start saws are like that, but the green bit could be bigger 🙂
Yup, it’s a magnetic switch
Great update - thanks for sharing. I actually just purchased this and have yet to assemble and calibrate it. This will definitely give me lots of pointers and advice as I tackle that next weekend. !
My best advice is to set aside two days and just take your time getting things set up. It’s a major pain, but it needs to be done
Peanuts? After watching your first video I ordered this saw from THD. That was today, so I won’t have it for about 9 days. Also, from the first video, I cringed when you tossed your old saw. My 25- year old Ryobi BT3000 had a similar problem where the blade lift mechanism stripped out completely. It was actually a fairly simple fix with a Heli-coil. I would have tried this fix on your old saw before giving it the heave-ho. On a parting note…you do an excellent product review! I want my subscription to pay rewards in the future! Thank you, very much.
Thank you Bruce!
Thanks for the long term review! I appreciate the follow up.
Sure thing! Figured this would be a popular topic
I have the delta version of this saw, and agree the wings are garbage, and I do wish the foot pedal made the wheel go further down because you have **any** threading out of the feet at all, they grab. You have to thread them basically all the way back in to use it.
Re: the fence... I just move the fence from the T end and all that worry goes away. I don't slide it from the fence body.
I added a magnetic switch to my tablesaw. If the power goes out or you pop the breaker, the switch disconnects. When power is restored, the saw will not turn on. It's a great safety feature. You don't want your saw starting up when your are not ready.
Peanuts - thank you for the update! Nice to know all of the pros and cons about it, and I appreciate the candor about potential issues and compromises that may be a deal breaker. I have an old Ryobi BT3000 from 1991, and the riving knife adjustment on it is a nightmare. This would be a very nice upgrade, but there are some items with the Ridgid that I don't have with the Ryobi. I might look at one of the other jobsite models instead.
Thanks for the continued support, Erik! What saw are you most looking at?
@@SpencleyDesignCo I've been looking at the DWE7491RS, Ridgid R4560 & R4550 and a couple of others. I'm doing less projects now, so there's no rush. i figure new models will be coming out this year too, how that many of the Sawstop patents have expired.
I’d avoid the 4550. I’ve heard horror stories about how cheaply it’s made
@@SpencleyDesignCo Good to know - thanks.
Sure thing!
I built carts for my big tools with 6" castors. Makes rolling it so much easier.
Update…I got my Ridgid R4560 and assembled it today. If you recall, your video review is what sold me on this saw. Once assembled I went through all the checks and the only tweak it needed was the riving knife was a bit out of whack. Otherwise, it was just perfect. And, maybe we can attribute this directly to your video, the table extension wings are no longer “flimsy” as you described. A darn nice saw, offered to me by THD with a military discount! You should get a commission!
Nice! The riving knife was a real nightmare to get situated
Peanut - Try having the saw running and either pull the plug or trip a circuit breaker. Do not touch the power switch on the saw. Plug the saw back in or turn on the circuit breaker. The saw should NOT turn back on until you press the on power switch. I think that the power switch on the saw has a magnetic safety feature.
Here is some info for others that do not have a magnetic safety switch.
There is a brand of power paddle switch that has an internal magnetic connection that will break contact if there is a power interruption.
You have to push the ON button to turn on a piece of equipment in the event of a power outage, manual unplugging of the equipment or a tripped circuit breaker. The equipment will not turn on when power is restored until the on button is pressed!
The switch comes in 4 configurations.
The base switch (71054V - $12.99) is a 110V/16AMP 1/2HP version with 1/4 inch spade connectors and IS magnetic. I found out that this would not work because the Bosch table saw has a motor that is rated at 4HP. I ended up sending it back.
The next up is a 110/220 volt switch. It (71007V - $16.99) is rated for 2HP/35 amps 120V and 3HP/20AMP 230V. I believe this one does not have spade connectors already on the switch. I did find screw mount 1/4" male spade connectors so that I would not have to cut off the original female connectors on the wires. This might be a good choice for moving it to other equipment. Keep the original switch so you can reinstall it on the saw. This is NOT a magnetic safety switch!
The next up is a 230V switch. It (71577 - $12.90) is rated for 2HP/16AMP and has 1/4" male spade connectors This switch is magnetic.
According to Powertec tech support it is not supposed to work with 120 volt but videos show it working just as it should. It has the best specs for my table saw. I will be installing it, hopefully this week and testing it for safety function. The description on Amazon is confusing because it says 120V in one spot and 230V in another.
The fourth switch 120V, (71755 - $32.89) is a corded so you just mount it and plug the power cord from your equipment into the female plug and then the male plug into the wall or extension cord outlet.
However, this switch is a single phase switch, 120V smart switch, 1/2 HP/16 amps so for most power equipment it will be important to know your HP specifications.
You can recreate this switch configuration with one of the previous listed switches by using a deep box and cutting the ends off of a 14 gauge extension cord and wiring the male and female ends to the switch. Use a 12 gauge extension cord if your device is 20AMP. it is NOT a magnetic switch.
The switch body dimensions will be a consideration if you want to put it in the original saw switch box. You may need a deep box or extension ring to accommodate the deep switch body.
Peanuts. There are screw adjustments to minimize the fence slop. I did mine and it's just about perfect.
Appreciate all the points you brought up. It definitely looks like an capable saw, for a mid-range price. I've been making do with a Ryobi jobsite saw for a few years now. Once I can scrape together enough PEANUTS, I'm looking for something in this price range.
Right on! I've used that ryobi saw and you would definitely appreciate the upgrade :)
This video has pushed me over the edge. I have been using a Ryobi BT3000 saw with extensions for almost 20 years and need a left tilting saw with a good fence. Can’t justify $3k for a SawStop and want a cast iron top. Thanks for the review! It’s on order and will arrive in about 2 weeks!
Mini splits are great for low noise when you get a place you can add that too. Wouldn't do it to a rental unless the landlord is willing to pony up some cash. Mitsubishi are the best but pricey. You get 12 year warranty if there's a trained diamond dealer in your area
We delta owners know that saw as the delta 36-725T2. You can buy it in black and blue from lowes, while the home depot version is the ridgid, manufactured by the same company. The aluminum on that fence is wavy. That’s from all owners of that fence. We all usually change the aluminum with an extruded aluminum.
Thank for watching
5:28 Based on how it looks, pull the fence toward the rail once you get it close to the final position then lock it in place.
The “T square” / biesmeyer fences all have this “problem” a true biesmeyer and the sawstop pro fences partially fix this issue by having a uhmw faced metal shim that has a pivot at the top of the fence and sits between the cam of the handle that presses against the fence rail to lock it in and the fence itself. It’s job is to eliminate the needed gap when disengaging the handle by keeping the “flapper” pressed against the fence rail, but not preventing it from sliding (hence the uhmw) great solution, maybe wouldn’t be too hard to retrofit. Also dimensions line up where you should just be able to go get a biesmeyer and slap it on these saws.
Thank you for the insight Logan
Just ordered one at Home Depot.This is the same as the Delta at Lowes that I have been drooling over for 2 years now.Picking up March 15 2022.
Cool!
Regarding the electrical 'mechanism' that keeps the saw from inadvertently operating when you don't want it to: it's called a NVR switch. No Voltage Release. The channel, Proper DIY, has a great segment within his latest video on powering his workbench which demonstrates how and why it works. He is in the UK so terminology may be a tad different for the same thing here in the States.
Yup, other folks refer to it as a "magnetic switch" too. I just prefer a mechanical switch as this one is very sloppy and mushy
@@SpencleyDesignCo That they are - but they're super safe and can be trusted. We've had them for years and years here in europe :)
That being said - my table saw has a little mechanical-ish electrical switch, one of those turn-to-lock-out red buttons in addition to the NVR switch so I guess it's to please all preferences :-)
Exactly, it’s all preference 😀
@@SpencleyDesignCo Yup. I still keep pulling out my lead personally though... bad time to accidentally hit any switch in some freak accident kind of way with my hands somewhere down in the machine.
Oh 100% I always unplug the saw just like I always unplug my router when I change bits
13:45 The switch might be a contactor (relay). It should only turn on if it has supplied voltage and you press the button. If it turns off due to any sort of interruption -- power loss, tripped breaker, press the off switch -- it will (should?) only turn back on again if you press the on button. IOW if it's off it stays off until you turn it on again. To test it, turn on the saw than either unplug it or turn off the breaker, then plug it back in and see what happens.
Edit: A contactor-type switch might be a new OSHA standard. It's really a better style and I hope you get used to it.
Thanks for the info. Regarding power at 8:50 I have read that these can be wired for 220 for extra power.
Peanuts, I luv your honesty about the craft, your tools, and stance on sponsors. I own a 4520 and it has served me well for the money i paid, n thats a perspective alot of social media people forget. Im lucky in the fact that i come from a family with a professional woodworking shop but theres no way i could afford personally ANY of the machines we use. hell atm i cant even justify a bandsaw or drill press for my garage. I do totally think the fence on every ridgid ive ever used thou is close to crap. they really need to rethink their design.
Ive had mine for 6 months and absolutely LOVE it. I went from a tiny jobsite skilsaw to this beast and it is amazing.
Nice! Experienced any issues so far?
@@SpencleyDesignCo no issues what so ever. It’s so nice to actually just set me fence and not have to double check it. With my job site saw I would have to measure from blade to fence haha
Trust me, I know that struggle 🤣
I got the soft start model last month and the riving knife adjustment was a pita.
Peanuts! Not because I have a question but just so you know I watched the whole video.
I can't wait to actually get mine, I have a 10 year old 13amp Ryobi contractor saw that actually scares me at this point. Blades dropped mid cut, shut off mid cut and honestly is way past its prime. While I can put a 220 in my location as a weekend hobbyist I can't validate the cost of a true cabinet saw. This is a nice middle ground and would love to see more tool reviews from you. Happy I found you. P.S I saw your review on the homedepot product page 😀
Thanks, Josh! I appreciate the support!
I posted this on your first video before I noticed this one.
Your saw has a magnetic switch. If it you disconnect it, or it loses
power it should not start when plugged back in or the power comes back
on.
Also, I had the Delta version of this saw and had 2 problems with it.
One issue was the table was not very flat. The big problem was the fact
that the arbor assembly had play in it and my zero clearance insert
looked like the one from your old saw. I could grab the arbor nut and
rock the assembly back and forth. I went to my local Lowes and the
display model did that same thing. I returned it and went with a
different saw. I bought a Fusion F2, had problems with that and
returned it. I then ended up with a Shop Fox W1837 and have been very
happy with it.
What should you buy? Well, I built a mobile base for my saw with built
in extension tables and storage. Got a real fence for it and all is
well. At the time I did not want to get another job site saw either.
The contractor version of the Saw Stop was a no go for me due to the
external motor. A full cabinet saw was a no go as I need it to be
mobile. The Delta, and then Shop Fox W1837 both work well with my
mobile table idea. However, now that I look at my table, I could have
easily built the able around the Saw Stop jobsite saw, and still used
the same fence setup that I have now. I have a Jet Xacta rail kit with
53" rip capacity and a Very Super Cool Tools fence. It is a great
setup. Anyway, just wanted to share this info. There are 3 big
drawbacks to jobsite saws. The stability of the saw on the stand, the
small table surface area and the bad fences. I could have resolved all
of those issues with my mobile stand and had the safety features of the
Saw Stop.
Yup, i know it’s a magnetic switch 😀
Peanuts. Don’t have a question just wanted to help with the arithmetic‘s. I am more of a DeWalt fan but still like watching.
Thanks so much for the support, Joshua!
I appreciate your videos. Thank you for your open, honest, and up front comments on this saw.
Thank you for the positive feedback! 😀
Peanuts! I used to have the delta version of this saw before I bought a saws contractor saw, and I loved it! One tip I’ll give though is to not have the riving knife perfectly parallel with the blade. I usually like to offset mine 1 or 2 thousandths toward the fence, so it’s not off too much, but it kinda acts like a featherboard on the rear side to keep the workpiece fully pressed up against the fence. Then I just use a featherboard on the front side. I do agree, stamped steel wings aren’t great, both the ones on my delta and my sawstop are really bad. I actually just upgraded to a 3hp sawstop that I found used, and i didn’t realize how much of a difference cast iron makes! This is a great video for anyone looking to buy this insanely affordable table saw!
That's an awesome tip! Thanks, Arpad!
@@SpencleyDesignCo I found out because my delta saw had the riving knife like that out of the box, I was going to adjust it, but ended up not doing it because it helped me get straighter cuts! Thanks Eric!
What I really need are those fancy Jessem guides that pull the piece towards the fence…but I’m not a millionaire 🤣
@@SpencleyDesignCo same here! I’m not made of money! That riving knife trick works really well for me! But i could use some of those jessem guides!
Maybe I’ll open my door one day and they’ll be sitting there for me 🤣
Peanuts. Squaring the blade was a pain… had to look up videos of the delta to figure it out.
Did it require completely detaching the motor from the table?
@@SpencleyDesignCo had to take the back of the shroud off, loosen some bolts, and give it a good whack with a deadblow. Took a while to get the shroud back to not leak.
Very interesting. It blows my mind that they skipped that in the instructions 🤷♂️
Peanuts. Thanks for the review. Making a similar upgrade, I needed the confidence it was a good buy. The HD product page lists it as 3.2hp, so thanks for the notice it probably isn't
No problem, Jay! This saw is definitely NOT 3.2HP... whoever wrote that on their website must've had a little too much to drink 😂
On a 120v 15amp circuit you would never run 3.2hp, to much current at the voltage. The 1.25 to 1.5 real life hp. is more realistic.
Yes, it’s definitely not 3HP
Peanuts, thanks for the video, well done. This helped me make a decision on this saw. Personally, I like the saw but I know I need something more powerful thanks to your video.
Peanuts! I just got the Delta T2 about a month ago. Lowe's had a sale for a week or two at participating stores for half normal retail. Of course the store 5 minutes from my house didn't honor the sale, but I found one 2.5 hours away that did. Got mine for $341.88 out the door! Quite a difference in this saw and the Kobalt I've been running for last 6+ years. After watching this video, I'd say they are exactly the same saw, only difference being orange on yours and blue on mine. :)
Oh wow! $350 is a killer deal! Anything you’d change about the saw?
@@SpencleyDesignCo Dust collection with zero clearance insert is BAD. Other than that I'm really happy with it so far.
I think it’s because the shroud around the blade is still relatively open
I think most saw fences benefit from some positive pressure while adjusting. I have an older Ridgid saw with aluminum (one-piece) rails that pulls the head toward the saw and makes it easy to press lightly against it to keep the indicator accurate without really thinking about it.
Unfortunately this one doesn’t
I think the best first change you should make is a bigger motor like I did. I used a 3 hp 240v motor with the same rpms as the old one and never have had anything that fits on that saw I cannot cut with a breeze.
That's awesome! Could you link me to the motor you purchased? Is a pretty standard mount?
Peanuts (see I did watch the whole video!). My primary question is about your work space. I know you said it is a small one car garage.
I’m contemplating setting up a woodwork shop. My available space is approximately 12x24. Would you mind letting us know the actual dimensions of your space? I tend to think a ton of space is required until I see guys like you and others operating out of small shops. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, Randall! Here’s a shop tour video I did that answers your questions: ua-cam.com/video/jJ7h5z0OrKU/v-deo.html
Hey Spencley ... I own a production R4560 saw and probably have the benefit of a manual that's a little more refined than what you had available to you. I didn't have half the issues with saw calibration that you experienced. My riving knife was a bit out of alignment and it took me all of 5 minutes to correct the problem. First of all, (and I'm sure you are fully aware by now), the 4 boults that allow the alignment of the RK are hex and I found the alignment extremely easy to accomplish. The balance of my saw was spot on out of the box and I couldn't be happier about my purchase.
You brought up several items I too wish were better with this saw, but you also have to be honest in your assessment of the R4560, you can't find anything on the market, other than it's cousin, the Delta for $40 more, even in the same universe capable of competing with this saw. You would have to pay well over $1,000 to even think about cast wings or better dust collection.
The R4560 is the best deal, period ... of any serious saw on the market today within double its price.
It’s definitely a decent deal
100% agree! This saw is an amazing value and is the quarterback of my woodshop.
Peanuts…great video… appreciate the perspective on whether or not the right saw or not and the pros and cons feedback. Sounds like after you get it dialed in, good be a great saw…. Setting up my own dedicated shop (for hobby still) and not want wanting to spend thousands but get away from job site saw, so this might be a good fit. Thx again!
Thanks, James! Based on your needs, this saw would probably be a great fit!
I would like to see this saw with an ability to use 220v AC power vs just 110v AC. I have an RV outlet that I use with my 220v saw and welder. It works very well, and single phase saws notoriously are underpowered, even saws rated at 1.75hp seem to have much more power running on 220v
Btw, great review. It is very detailed and better than many of the sponsored reviews I've seen. For $700, I personally would buy a used unisaw or Grizzly/Shopfox/Jet etc on a 220v 2 phase.
Peanuts - Very detailed video, well done. I was fortunate enough to buy the Delta 36-725T2 50% off over black Friday. It is essentially the same saw. I already have a cabinet style contractor saw - a 12 year old Hitachi - that works well for me, but doesn't have the Bessemer style fence and only a 24" rip. Unfortunately, I find the fence to be quite finicky. There's a lot of play and rocking when sliding it across the table and locking it down, despite adjustment, making it a little painful to set it precisely. I've since learned how to make it work and I'm OK with it because it locks down rock solid. The other complaint I had was that no matter what I did, I couldn't get the table extensions to set flush all the way across. The two piece rails were really difficult to align properly during install. I spent hours loosening and tightening them until I called it good enough. Again, for a MSRP $700 saw, not the worst thing in the world, but definitely not ideal. My old Hitachi was much easier to tune. Also, why 2.5" suction??? My Hitachi has 4".
Anyway, thanks for the video. I wish you luck in your woodworking journey! Go Blue! ;)
Thanks for much for watching, kristofer!
Just picked the saw up, i huge upgrade from my jobsite saw.
I like tool reviews, but I’m more interested in builds. I’ve picked up countless tips just from your videos alone and my style is a bit inspired by some cues from yours. But I understand tool reviews seem to generate more views and interactions, so you do what’s best for Eric, Mandy and Spencely design co.
Not sure about the saw itself, but I bought the Delta 36-T30 T4 fence system separately and added it to my vintage 1969 Craftsman 113 table saw (it has several cast extensions and a cast router table extension). For the cost (~$200) it is excellent, installs easily and operates like a dream... well beyond my expectations. 36" right, ~20" left rip capacity! The kit comes with full length rails, not the separated ones shown on yours. Much, much easier to mount and align.
nice!
@@SpencleyDesignCo Just a thought... if the steel wings are square and not warped at all, you could epoxy or construction adhesive some 3/4" plywood to the bottom and greatly stiffen/flatten them up. I'm lucky in that extra cast iron wings for a Craftsman 113 are super easy to come by and just bolt on, even to each other... I have two on one side and one plus the router table wing on the other. Cheers.
That’s a good idea!
The fold down slat is there to make using the blade guard possible on narrow cuts. Nothing to do with trapping a cut.
ua-cam.com/video/EmZvOhHF85I/v-deo.html
Let’s be clear that saw is made by the same manufacturer as the Delta contractor saw at Lowe’s. I picked up the Delta about two years ago. I knew that it was a means to an end because I was researching cabinet saws. Yeah I was slow about it. But with that being said I ran 8/4” maple, walnut, cherry, 2x4’s with out any issues. Not to mention I use all industrial full 1/8” kerf blades. It did need adjustment but it only took an hour or two. I’m sorry that you struggled. I do think that it is well worth the money. Btw there are four bolts that hold the trunnion to the cast iron top. “Tip” blue lock tight. There also extremely easy to access. Most cabinet saws take more time to adjust.
I have a 1984 Craftsman direct drive saw that started out life as a 9" diameter. About 15 years ago, I realized that the only major difference between that saw and the 10" model was the throat plate! I bought the larger plate, plus some zero clearance blanks, and a 10" Forrest blade and I was in business with a half inch more rip capacity. The blade alone was over half the original cost of the saw (bought on sale for $199, lol). The original rip fence, a rear lock model, btw, totally sucked. My solution was to buy a Delta Unifence , junior edition, for $250 and adapt it to the saw. It made a huge difference.
36 years later, I just can't break the damn thing, as much as I'd like a SawStop portable. The aluminum tabletop has a 1.5 degree hump in the center. I have learned how to deal with that as well. I've also mounted another switch on the left end of the rip fence rail, where it's actually useful.
That’s quite the experience!
Damn, you're tall! Seems like a great table as it appears to be able to mostly replace an expensive, old style, huge, heavy table. However, it clearly isn't a job-site saw (or so it would seem from what I can see). It's a shame it's only 15 amps, even the tiny Ryobi is 15 amps. But yes, then you need a 20 amp circuit. The riving knife issue reminds me of the Audi in the 1980's that needed the whole engine dropped to change one of the sparkplugs.
Not sure if someone has addressed this already, but your fear of the saw starting up after having been unplugged is unnecessary. The saw has a power fail safe which automatically returns the switch to the off position in the event of a power loss (such as being unplugged). Hope this puts your mind at ease a bit.
Yup, it’s a magnetic switch. I would just prefer a physical switch because this one is super mushy and doesn’t always respond to being pressed
Peanuts! Good review. I watch lots of reviews, and I prefer the ones made by someone who has used the tool for 6 mos. to a year-- always more honest, focused and aware of all the little quirks with the thing. I recently got my first table saw (at 66yo!). It's a jobsite saw, put out by Kobalt (yes, Lowe's ), but it's 10" and 15amps. I don't know the HP of the thing, but it must be about like yours-- 1 3/4hp. Certainly no more. The table top is aluminum, disappointing. But it was only $300.00, so there's that.
For the money I can't think of any saw that is as good or better than this one or the equivalent delta table saw ! Once you go for a 3 horse table saw the price jumps up considerably! I still don't understand why one couldn't put a 3 horse motor into this platform. Doing this would give you an amazing saw, again for the money of course!
Agreed. There are definitely limitations, but for the money I think it’s a pretty solid choice
Probably a good idea to use a box connector for the cord going into that handy box
Peanuts!!! I watched both of your videos on the R4560 because I was interested in buying a table saw. I just purchased one today. Thanks for all the good info!
Sure thing! I’ve got bad news though…the motor is starting to crap out on me a few days ago
Well that’s not good. You did say it was a prototype so maybe the issues you’re having with the motor are solely isolated to prototype models?
It’s definitely possible 🤷♂️ hopefully you don’t experience the same issue
Well, I let you know! Great content on your channel. Subscribed!
I appreciate the support, Jeremy!
Peanuts I am confiding buying a ridged table saw but I do like the laguna f2 table saw. However I think I am leaning more towards the ridged.
I love this video and your channel.
Happy to habe found it.
Peanuts and greedings from an austrian carpenter
Thanks Jan! I appreciate the support! Any videos you’d like to see in the future?
I have the Delta 36-725T2. I have had it for over two years and the Ridgid R4560 is an exact clone. The Ridgid is a nice saw except I can say the Delta 36-725T2 has sturdy stamped metal wings. It has no give but I can say the miter gauge was crap. I am being nice when I saw crap. I'm sure you will get many years of great service from your Ridgid R4560.
Unfortunately it’s already falling apart haha
It looks like you can adjust blade to the slot with the two holes on top of the table. Looks like it attaches to the trunnions below
Those are used to set the positive stops at 0 and 45 degrees
PEANUTS!
"But me...I have morals..."
I'm sorry...I almost shot Dr. Pepper out of my nose at that comment! :D
I’m just being honest 😀
Peanuts, as others have said, this is the same saw as the Delta 36-725 which has been around for several years. (I've even seen Rigid invoices with the Delta name and address on them.). There's a good Facebook user group for the Delta with lots of tips and tricks for upgrades. I think it's the best bang for the buck out there, especially if you can catch it on sale or get a good used one.
Definitely a great “bang for the buck” saw!
That massive gap is so that can sell you a R4560+ or R4560X version at a higher price, which comes with additional or cast iron wings. I have the Delta 36-5000, which is the upgraded version of the old 36-725. It's got one-piece rails, and a slightly nicer fence. I then added a cast iron router table wing. It's served me very well, but yeah...adjusting the blade to the slots, if you need to...is a chore.
this isn't apple 😜
@@SpencleyDesignCo Dewalt does it, too: DW375 is the planer, DW735X is the planer with the infeed/outfeed wings. ;)
Ridgid isn’t that clever 🤣
Peanuts! First, thanks for the review. I wanted to give you an update on those flimsy side tables your saw came with:
My guess is that Rigid heard back from those who were sent a promotional saw and took the feedback seriously because I just picked this saw up and those tables are rock solid - no give! Hope this helps others if they are still on the fence about picking this saw up.
Thanks again for the solid review. Cheers.
Well that’s good to know because the side tables are trash on mine 🤣
Honestly though. If any serious woodworker depends on any miter saw for fine accurate cuts , let’s say over 4-6 inches. Then they shouldn’t be doing this for a living. Most miter saws just don’t give very accurate cuts once you go over certain widths. You can calibrate it to give you better cuts but not accurate. There are other more dependable methods of getting accurate cuts.
yeah, I don't like miter saws much
Peanuts x2 - Great review. I have watched it twice. Today I was looking for information on how to calibrate the darn blade and I found your comments EXACTLY like mine. The manual tells me how to test the blade alignment but not how to fix it... unlike yours I found mine is a bit off and I would like to calibrate it. Did you ever find out how to do this ? The online customer support at Rigid wasn't helpful
Wow, thanks for watching! Another viewer said there’s instructions for the delta t2 where you have to remove to motor mount to be able to adjust it
peanuts! that was one of the best review videos i have seen in going over the saw and almost every aspect, from mechanical, design, functionality, to personal preference. i am interested in this saw, but i have googled it and have not been able to find it. i noticed in reading comments here that some of you said you have it so how do i find it.
Thanks for the feedback Brian!
I'd like to see a more detailed video about making adjustments to the saw, particularly adjusting riving knife and blade. From what I can tell, this saw seems like a clone of the Lowe's Delta 36-725 T2, which is what I bought.
You can find a lot of videos about adjustments on the delta saw. They’re exactly the same
RIGID cannot maintain quality and keep the price lower, so I find a lot of their products are getting less reliable in terms of quality because they want to target the DIY’er. I bought the Rigid Contractor saw about 20 years ago, it was beefy back then, but still lacks the power for hardwood ripping. Looking to upgrade to a Laguna.
Peanuts! Great review! One thing, I just bought (ordered) this saw today.
You said that it’s only 1 3/4 hp. I purchased the R4560 (same saw) but it is 3.2 hp. Did they do an upgrade? Thanks again for the review.
Peanuts. Would the saw function normally without the legs? Meaning, does the motor hang below the legs or anything that would physically affect the functionality of the saw? I have a work bench on casters that I’d like to put the saw on and I think I’d need to take the legs off to have it fit on the workbench.
P.s. I really like the review video. Yes you’re nitpicking, but that’s the point. And thank you for giving the overall dimensions, I was looking online and they only were giving the rip lengths on either side of the saw. Simple adding the two side widths, but it’s nice to physically see the tape measure on the video. I’m also looking at the delta version of this saw, will be making a decision soon. Thanks!
Peanuts - can you run the saw AND dust collection at the same time, off the same single circuit? I’m in the same 120 volt boat as you.
I’m only able to do it on really small cuts. If it’s 8/4 hardwood I can’t do both at the same time
Peanuts - I don't have a question but the table without extensions seems pretty small on that saw. I have both a 8" and a 10" older, like 50+ years old, table saws and they seem to have larger tables. Maybe it's the aspect ratio that's confusing me but they do seem wider. Keep the good stuff coming.
Peanuts. I have just ordered my own rigid table saw like yours. It listed for $649. It should arrive by Feb. 1. I'll let you know if there are any differences from the one you got.
Cool beans! Alway exciting to get a new tool!
I do not understand that this saw is a prototype when in fact it is a Delta table saw, made by Delta. Strange. It is orange though. I have the same saw (Delta from Lowes) and along with the Inkra Miter 5000 is just as accurate as Laguna or anyone else.
As much as you love this saw, Delta has a clone of this saw, the Delta 36-725T2. I watch an unboxing and it was like watch your Ridgid R4560 to a T except is it 250 less. Personal Delta has always made quality tools just as Craftsman had. If I had the room, I would take a Craftsman Table saw over almost everyone else that how well built they are. wood working had never been my thing, but you name it and I have been into it. somethings Im into just not head long as I should be. That because after 50+ yrs it getting long in the tooth.
Actually, the Ridgid is the clone and it is built by Delta. I have the Delta and think it is a great saw.
Okay peanut boy, an electromagnetic switch IS SAFER. The switch that is on your saw. That switch is a momentary switch that powers the electromagnet and “latches” the circuit to power the saw. The only way to “turn on” the saw is to push the button to activate the magnet. The reason is if you lose power to the saw it will NOT start by power returning to the cord. Once the magnet loses power the switch “switches” off/ the latch drops out.
The wings- to make cuts you do NOT NEED them to be massive chunks of cast iron, I have rarely had a full solid wing(right or left)- The times I have had full solid wings it was nice but unnecessary for the cuts, great when you use the saw as a flat table.
Looking forward to your 2022 videos
Thanks for watching, Andy
Peanuts, your saw looks extremely similar to my Delta saw. I like my saw and i definitely agree it needs 4 leveling feet and an easier way to level it. What upgrades have you done to to date and any future upgrades?
Really, really nice review! Thanks!
Thanks, Daniel! I appreciate the feedback
Peanuts, sorry I just noticed Stephen Treiber already gave you this feedback..........FYI on your concern about not clearly knowing if the power switch is on or off when you plug in your saw. Given that you experimented by pressing the start switch a few times, then plugged in the saw without the saw starting, I would say the power switch has a momentary close contact within it. Meaning, the switch has to have power to it for it to stay "on" when you turn it on. So, removing power from such a switch prevents it from ever accidentally being "on" when you unplug the saw. I'm no electrician, but I've run into these type switches before.
Yup, it’s a magnetic switch
Peanuts. I have the Delta 30 version of this saw and it is definitely not something you want to haul around to a job site. Even with my hydraulic lift cart, it was difficult to load and unload from my pick-up. What kind of dust collector are you running? I have terrible dust collection on my saw, more like your original jobsite saw.
woaaah hold up this looks *EXACTLY* like the new Delta T2 table saw?! 🤯
Did Ridgid just copy their saw? Everything looks the same
Probably, it’s made by their same parent company
@@SpencleyDesignCo ahh didn't know that
The tool industry is a giant mess haha. There are really only a small handful of brands
Peanuts, I just received my saw today and it is still in the box. I was thinking of returning. But after watching your review. I’m going to keep it. I just hope the blade is aligned properly. You spoke very clear and did a great job on reviewing this. Thank you.