At 8 min, you are half right. Low head pelton wheels usually won't over RPM. even with zero electrical load., so may not require a dump load. A note of caution, rectified DC has a ripple, this ripple can damage your charge controller. Some people, myself included use capacitors to smooth the rectified DC ripple.
Over voltage from your turbine to your charge controller is more likely and more potentially damaging. That is why so much time should be spent buying and setting up your system, so the components are matched with each other.
There are sites on the web that show you the formula to use to calculate the spec's of the capacitors needed. You will need 2 of them. Wire each one between the rectifier and the charge controller. @@beyondtheworkbench
@@beyondtheworkbench It's not difficult to spec capacitors, but what is needed is the AC frequency when the turbine is under load. Can you measure that? Your DC voltage would also be useful. Capacitors aren't that expensive.
An Ecoflow can be linked up to homeassistant that could control the dumploading where you can automate the dumploading based on the remaining power in the ecoflow.
@@beyondtheworkbench you just need a wifi smart socket that can handle around 3000 watts switching. Than in automations you just need to add 2 automations. One to enable dumploading once the remain power entity value reaches 99% and turn on the smart socket. Than the other automation to disable dumploading when the remain energy reached 90% to turn off the smart socket. Try playing with the 90 value and increase or decrease based on the results. The remain power entity of the ecoflow is hidden by default I think. Try to play around with automations by adding a simple light to the smart socket and get a visual indication when dumploading should be on or off. And if you wanna try it out without a smart socket you just add a switch helper in devices. The big magic will start when you do the reverse and start turning off non critical devices when your ecoflow battery is running low. Or only charge Powertools when the ecoflow battery is above 80% to utilise the energy as efficiently as possible. Also don’t forget to put a capacitor on the DC side of your rectifier to reduce the ripple
Thanks for the tips especially the capacitor on the rectifier. I would have looked into the smart controllers a bit more if we were planning this setup more permanently but we are about to swap over to our full inverter system so will likely encounter different problems with that setup@@krakakapaul
Could you not put an electric shutoff valve in the pipes to shut the water off to the turbine when you have reached the max power you need, that would also reduce the hours of wear on the turbine as its then not running 24/7. As the power drops the valves automatically reopen and your turbine restarts again...
This is such an excellent video. I have learned so much today. I was researching deep-cycle batteries charged by a micro-wind turbine, when I came across this. I live in the Outer Hebrides, where as you can imagine the wind rarely drops. I have had a few quotes to set up a domestic wind turbine system, but have been quoted £20,000 to £30,000. I will not live for long enough to recoup that! It seems to make more sense to get a marine-standard turbine to charge a battery system to supply low wattage appliances on a separate circuit in the house. I'd forgotten about the dump load and its importance, so thanks for explaining that one. Looking forward to seeing more videos.
Wow thats so much to set up the turbine!!! If you wanted to see some of our other videos you could set someting up for a fraction of that cost. Just replace my hydro with a wind turbine if you wanted as they are very similar from the electrical side of things.
Thats a great idea and something I have been thinking about as it's a really cool way of storing the energy. Some people have even put copper pipes in sand batteries to heat water as well so I am looking forward to experimenting
@@beyondtheworkbench I've seen sand batteries installed under driveways, and stall barns to heat floors and keep ice away. I'm sure you can run pipe through it and set up a radiator heater with a bypass valve for summer time. Lots of inexpensive options with sand batteries. That is if you have sand nearby
Somewhat related but couldn't you use this constant power for some sort of skirt heating for the caravan? Maybe already been noted by some other viewer
Thanks we have got the heating for the caravan in a really good place at the moment with the new diesel heater and I am scared to mess with it in case we have any other problems with it. I am definitely looking forward to diverting the excess power to a hot water tank though as its free hot water
That would be the better idea, we are moving over to our bigger inverter in the next few weeks so I will be working it directly from the inverter on that system
I know you can get adjustable voltage sensitive relay, couldn't one be set up to just under the ecoflow max voltage to switch and dump the load through heater. A bit like a regulator.
Sounds like a great idea, we are moving over to a proper inverter in the coming weeks so this is a stopgap until then although originally we had planned on using the eco flow for longer the battery just isn't big enough and a second one was as much as an inverter
i wouldnt be putting 2kw load through a cheap timer, they tend to weld the contacts permanently on or melt. you need a much higher quality one from a hydroponics shop and even then id probably use a convection heater that has a setting that matches your turbines output, there are 500w ones or those 2kw cheap ones in asda have a 750w setting. the "dump load" will be more predicable as it will constantly use that power unlike an oil heater that keeps clicking on and off. you might not even need a timer that way. really the turbine should have a special controller with relays etc
A couple of people have recommended the hydroponics timers as they are better so I will definitely be looking into those. I will definitely have a look at those heaters you mentioned as it is getting annoying trying to predict the output of the oil rad as it does start at 2kw and drop to 100w
It's not complicated. You're not "tricking" the unit, it's "Solar" input accepts 15-150V DC. So long as you don't go over 150V DC its fine (and the unit probably shuts off if you overvolt it). The unit can draw up to 15A at that voltage so your cables would need to be rated for that. You might want to put some filter capacitors on the rectifier because the DC might not be that smooth though. Regarding the dumping, sounds like a great opportunity for clothes drying.
@@beyondtheworkbench Thanks, i've caught up on your newer videos now with the new inverter. Looks like an awesome setup. Handy to have the ecoflow around as backup power supply now though. Love the hydro setup.
Did you say in the video that the hydro was producing 3-phase?? And was it? I thought a bridge rectifier converted AC to DC... apologies if I am wrong.
Yes. You can use a slightly more fancy bridge rectifier to get from 3-phase AC to DC, and he has one of those. Temporarily screwed to a plate at a cheeky angle 3:25 . You can see the three phases coming in, and red and black DC wires coming out. Love the temporary shed solutions, but better days are coming.
Could I also do this with my car running, connect a cable to the alternator with a rectifier in between and than connect the rectifier with the cable you mentioned to the EcoFlow?
I am sure it could be done if all of the parameters are met but there would always be a risk of blowing it up. They sell a generator to go with it so that might be a better option
Use grasslin timers buddy the cheap ones will break grasslin in my experience don’t tend to give up. Also ratings worth checking hence a contractor easy fix would be an purpose made timer for grow lights they are made to take lots of current the plug in ones melt when the heaters run. I think I have one on a shelf in the garage if you want it. I’ve no use for it but I can’t throw anything away 🤣
Cool setup, I hope to have something like it one day. Always wanted to make a hydroelectric system since I took my electrical construction/industry classes in college. Something about it I find really interesting. One thing I want to suggest looking into that might help you if you're worried about damaging the electronics with the hydro generator is to look into using a smoothing capacitor. Even with a full wave bridge rectifier, the DC going to your device from the bridge rectifier is pulsating. A "electrolytic" smoothing capacitor with the right micro farad, voltage type and voltage rating wired between both terminals of the DC output side of the bridge rectifier will stabilize the pulsating DC. I'd recommend reading into it at least. A type 2 surge arrestor wired right before your charge controller would help protect the system too, some good ones are made by Midnite Solar, but they're pretty damn expensive.
There are DC turbines out there. Energy System and Design sells them already rectified to DC. I have a 1k stream engine and it exits the turbine as DC. The only thing is, if you need to send the power a long distance to your batteries you need a very big gauge and expensive wire. I would have rather had my turbine stay AC and recitify it at my batteries.
I think that was the reason I went with an AC generator as initially I wanted a DC one because I thought it was an easier conversion but then I realised what you said about the power degradation over long distances of DC and the cost of the cable
Can you store more water on the property? I am fascinated with pumped hydro for off peak usage. If you had some more water storage options, you can turn off at night and refill/charge during the day.
I am working on a gravity generator/battery that stores energy in buckets up the hill and lets them down via cables when we need the power so we must be on the same wavelength
Great videos and you are doing well. I would recommend getting that bridge recifier in a secure box so no one can acvindtaly touch the contacts. Can you add capacitors to smooth thexwave form? A coanda screen on your intake eould be self cleaning and cut down your maintenance. It is usual to put a tank at the top of the system to let the bubbles out of the water. I would put some clamps from the pipe to the power box so they don't damage the turgo if they get caught up on something like a vehicle.
Thanks these are all great suggestions. I am working on version 2 already and will definitely be using your suggestions especially the electrical suggestions
This is brilliant thank you! I learned more - and understood more importantly 😅 - from you in this video than I have in the last year reading about solutions and products online. Appreciate the explanation of the box itself - they could do with explaining it better like you did to demystify it for non-techie newbies 👌🏻
Can I ask you a fairly numpty question actually please! I am looking at this initially for motorhome and then once on some land for a more fixed set up (at least to get me going) ... I obviously have 240v power sockets in my van already... Do I just not use them and plug into this instead? Just thinking of layout where items are installed and having cables running around. I guess it's a similar question in the home... do you physically have to plug, each device / appliance into the box or do you run something off it to provide the power to the sockets?
No it literally just plugs straight into the front. I plugged a kettle into the front and it worked like that or power tools fridge etc. With the location I put the ecoflow where I wanted it and ran extension leads to the workshop caravan etc so that it diddnt have to be moved. We did need to adapt the caravan lead to a standard wall plug but one of these is what you need and just plug it straight in. (make sure your caravan has the correct sized output 16 or 32 amp) so that it fits the adapter www.zoro.co.uk/shop/electrical-and-lighting/plugs-and-connectors/13a-plug-to-230v-32a-connector/p/ZT3377873S?B%7C%2BElectrical%20%26%20Lighting&ZT3377873S&targetid=pla-1995579823147&loc_physical_ms=1007294&dev=c&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoPOwBhAeEiwAJuXRh7VOxIyW8p0RqQi8EGjNFzuvSjbqPIIeeaFCCF2TK29ONEYLIQatxxoC2mUQAvD_BwE
Really interesting that thanks. The EcoFlow app is a let down, connecting and that automation setup would be brilliant. As you say connection is lame, we Have a delta max 2, mini & the power kit system powering some of house, cabin office and garage. Really like them overall but the app sucks, in our garage also have a small simple victron small setup that just works ticks over connects. Really like the idea of hydro and wind been learning about it and this helps thank you. Sam
Thanks! if the app worked as it said it should it would be an amazing system because you could do all kinds of automation but we can't even manage to add our devices to the automation section. It is also good having the generator come on automatically which saves a job. Sounds good that you also have some viltron components I have heard they are the best
@@beyondtheworkbench Same can’t add them doesn’t detect them what so ever, Hopefully they realise it sucks. The victron thing I like is it modular and if ever needed too can replace a part, never needed too the equipment is good and app is simple in a way no faff within it. Looks a great house project you got going on . Thanks take care Sam
There is an adjustible power buck converter from 230V to different DC voltages depending on your requirement. Like 230V to 73.5V, 62B, 49.5V, 26V, 13.8V to directly charge your ecoflow
At 8 min, you are half right. Low head pelton wheels usually won't over RPM. even with zero electrical load., so may not require a dump load. A note of caution, rectified DC has a ripple, this ripple can damage your charge controller. Some people, myself included use capacitors to smooth the rectified DC ripple.
Over voltage from your turbine to your charge controller is more likely and more potentially damaging. That is why so much time should be spent buying and setting up your system, so the components are matched with each other.
Thanks, hopefully our new system is up to it.
I will have a look into the capacitors, was it hard to spec yours?
There are sites on the web that show you the formula to use to calculate the spec's of the capacitors needed. You will need 2 of them. Wire each one between the rectifier and the charge controller.
@@beyondtheworkbench
@@beyondtheworkbench It's not difficult to spec capacitors, but what is needed is the AC frequency when the turbine is under load. Can you measure that? Your DC voltage would also be useful. Capacitors aren't that expensive.
Why not just put a Victron DC to DC charger between the Hydro and the eco-flow? That way you can dial in your exact amperage.
That's a good idea, I would if this setup was permanent for us but we have a proper inverter waiting for me to wire it up so this was always a stopgap
An Ecoflow can be linked up to homeassistant that could control the dumploading where you can automate the dumploading based on the remaining power in the ecoflow.
That would be really helpful! So far I haven't been able to add our devices to the automation tab of the app but they work fine on the monitoring tab
@@beyondtheworkbench you just need a wifi smart socket that can handle around 3000 watts switching. Than in automations you just need to add 2 automations. One to enable dumploading once the remain power entity value reaches 99% and turn on the smart socket.
Than the other automation to disable dumploading when the remain energy reached 90% to turn off the smart socket.
Try playing with the 90 value and increase or decrease based on the results.
The remain power entity of the ecoflow is hidden by default I think.
Try to play around with automations by adding a simple light to the smart socket and get a visual indication when dumploading should be on or off.
And if you wanna try it out without a smart socket you just add a switch helper in devices.
The big magic will start when you do the reverse and start turning off non critical devices when your ecoflow battery is running low.
Or only charge Powertools when the ecoflow battery is above 80% to utilise the energy as efficiently as possible.
Also don’t forget to put a capacitor on the DC side of your rectifier to reduce the ripple
Thanks for the tips especially the capacitor on the rectifier. I would have looked into the smart controllers a bit more if we were planning this setup more permanently but we are about to swap over to our full inverter system so will likely encounter different problems with that setup@@krakakapaul
Could you not put an electric shutoff valve in the pipes to shut the water off to the turbine when you have reached the max power you need, that would also reduce the hours of wear on the turbine as its then not running 24/7. As the power drops the valves automatically reopen and your turbine restarts again...
I will be adding something like this in version 2. We have since got a proper inverter so arent dealing with these problems at the moment
This is such an excellent video. I have learned so much today. I was researching deep-cycle batteries charged by a micro-wind turbine, when I came across this. I live in the Outer Hebrides, where as you can imagine the wind rarely drops. I have had a few quotes to set up a domestic wind turbine system, but have been quoted £20,000 to £30,000. I will not live for long enough to recoup that! It seems to make more sense to get a marine-standard turbine to charge a battery system to supply low wattage appliances on a separate circuit in the house. I'd forgotten about the dump load and its importance, so thanks for explaining that one. Looking forward to seeing more videos.
Wow thats so much to set up the turbine!!! If you wanted to see some of our other videos you could set someting up for a fraction of that cost. Just replace my hydro with a wind turbine if you wanted as they are very similar from the electrical side of things.
@@beyondtheworkbench I've been looking at some of those Rob, thank-you. I shall try my hand at rigging something up!
Would there be a benefit from dumping the excess power into a sand battery?
Thats a great idea and something I have been thinking about as it's a really cool way of storing the energy. Some people have even put copper pipes in sand batteries to heat water as well so I am looking forward to experimenting
@@beyondtheworkbench I've seen sand batteries installed under driveways, and stall barns to heat floors and keep ice away. I'm sure you can run pipe through it and set up a radiator heater with a bypass valve for summer time. Lots of inexpensive options with sand batteries. That is if you have sand nearby
Yea its a great system, another thing we are looking at is underfloor smoke heating from a fire like the romans used to do@@jakebruenderman2481
@@beyondtheworkbench very interesting. I'll keep watching haha
Somewhat related but couldn't you use this constant power for some sort of skirt heating for the caravan? Maybe already been noted by some other viewer
Thanks we have got the heating for the caravan in a really good place at the moment with the new diesel heater and I am scared to mess with it in case we have any other problems with it. I am definitely looking forward to diverting the excess power to a hot water tank though as its free hot water
Why not dump the input directly from the turbine into something?
Less wear on the batteries and inverter.
That would be the better idea, we are moving over to our bigger inverter in the next few weeks so I will be working it directly from the inverter on that system
I know you can get adjustable voltage sensitive relay, couldn't one be set up to just under the ecoflow max voltage to switch and dump the load through heater. A bit like a regulator.
Sounds like a great idea, we are moving over to a proper inverter in the coming weeks so this is a stopgap until then although originally we had planned on using the eco flow for longer the battery just isn't big enough and a second one was as much as an inverter
i wouldnt be putting 2kw load through a cheap timer, they tend to weld the contacts permanently on or melt. you need a much higher quality one from a hydroponics shop and even then id probably use a convection heater that has a setting that matches your turbines output, there are 500w ones or those 2kw cheap ones in asda have a 750w setting. the "dump load" will be more predicable as it will constantly use that power unlike an oil heater that keeps clicking on and off. you might not even need a timer that way. really the turbine should have a special controller with relays etc
A couple of people have recommended the hydroponics timers as they are better so I will definitely be looking into those. I will definitely have a look at those heaters you mentioned as it is getting annoying trying to predict the output of the oil rad as it does start at 2kw and drop to 100w
It's not complicated. You're not "tricking" the unit, it's "Solar" input accepts 15-150V DC. So long as you don't go over 150V DC its fine (and the unit probably shuts off if you overvolt it). The unit can draw up to 15A at that voltage so your cables would need to be rated for that. You might want to put some filter capacitors on the rectifier because the DC might not be that smooth though. Regarding the dumping, sounds like a great opportunity for clothes drying.
I did find it shut off if it detected an over volt, dump loading was difficult but we are off the ecoflow now so we are running much smoother
@@beyondtheworkbench Thanks, i've caught up on your newer videos now with the new inverter. Looks like an awesome setup. Handy to have the ecoflow around as backup power supply now though. Love the hydro setup.
Did you say in the video that the hydro was producing 3-phase?? And was it? I thought a bridge rectifier converted AC to DC... apologies if I am wrong.
Yes. You can use a slightly more fancy bridge rectifier to get from 3-phase AC to DC, and he has one of those. Temporarily screwed to a plate at a cheeky angle 3:25 . You can see the three phases coming in, and red and black DC wires coming out. Love the temporary shed solutions, but better days are coming.
@@geirmyrvagnes8718 ah, thanks.
Yes its a 3 phase AC/DC rectifier so 3 inputs 2 outputs here is the link www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386262523602
Could I also do this with my car running, connect a cable to the alternator with a rectifier in between and than connect the rectifier with the cable you mentioned to the EcoFlow?
I am sure it could be done if all of the parameters are met but there would always be a risk of blowing it up. They sell a generator to go with it so that might be a better option
Yes I ordered this one today. I thought of adding an additional connection at the solar port as this alternator charger is only bringing 800w.
Use grasslin timers buddy the cheap ones will break grasslin in my experience don’t tend to give up. Also ratings worth checking hence a contractor easy fix would be an purpose made timer for grow lights they are made to take lots of current the plug in ones melt when the heaters run. I think I have one on a shelf in the garage if you want it. I’ve no use for it but I can’t throw anything away 🤣
Thats a great suggestion they look really good. We have the new system pretty much ready to go now so we will be transferring over to that very soon
Cool setup, I hope to have something like it one day. Always wanted to make a hydroelectric system since I took my electrical construction/industry classes in college. Something about it I find really interesting.
One thing I want to suggest looking into that might help you if you're worried about damaging the electronics with the hydro generator is to look into using a smoothing capacitor. Even with a full wave bridge rectifier, the DC going to your device from the bridge rectifier is pulsating. A "electrolytic" smoothing capacitor with the right micro farad, voltage type and voltage rating wired between both terminals of the DC output side of the bridge rectifier will stabilize the pulsating DC. I'd recommend reading into it at least.
A type 2 surge arrestor wired right before your charge controller would help protect the system too, some good ones are made by Midnite Solar, but they're pretty damn expensive.
Ah one of those sounds really useful thanks for pointing it out
There are DC turbines out there. Energy System and Design sells them already rectified to DC. I have a 1k stream engine and it exits the turbine as DC. The only thing is, if you need to send the power a long distance to your batteries you need a very big gauge and expensive wire. I would have rather had my turbine stay AC and recitify it at my batteries.
I think that was the reason I went with an AC generator as initially I wanted a DC one because I thought it was an easier conversion but then I realised what you said about the power degradation over long distances of DC and the cost of the cable
Can you store more water on the property? I am fascinated with pumped hydro for off peak usage. If you had some more water storage options, you can turn off at night and refill/charge during the day.
I am working on a gravity generator/battery that stores energy in buckets up the hill and lets them down via cables when we need the power so we must be on the same wavelength
Great videos and you are doing well. I would recommend getting that bridge recifier in a secure box so no one can acvindtaly touch the contacts. Can you add capacitors to smooth thexwave form? A coanda screen on your intake eould be self cleaning and cut down your maintenance. It is usual to put a tank at the top of the system to let the bubbles out of the water. I would put some clamps from the pipe to the power box so they don't damage the turgo if they get caught up on something like a vehicle.
Thanks these are all great suggestions. I am working on version 2 already and will definitely be using your suggestions especially the electrical suggestions
Many thanks for sharing your journey and knowledge gained, Best wishes KPPnz
Thanks!
Just to say the solar input cable port is an xt connector either an xt30 xt60 xt90 probably cheaper than the adapter
Nice one thanks for that. I am sure the eco flow version is twice the price
This is brilliant thank you! I learned more - and understood more importantly 😅 - from you in this video than I have in the last year reading about solutions and products online. Appreciate the explanation of the box itself - they could do with explaining it better like you did to demystify it for non-techie newbies 👌🏻
Can I ask you a fairly numpty question actually please! I am looking at this initially for motorhome and then once on some land for a more fixed set up (at least to get me going) ... I obviously have 240v power sockets in my van already... Do I just not use them and plug into this instead? Just thinking of layout where items are installed and having cables running around.
I guess it's a similar question in the home... do you physically have to plug, each device / appliance into the box or do you run something off it to provide the power to the sockets?
thanks I had hoped I was explaining it ok
No it literally just plugs straight into the front. I plugged a kettle into the front and it worked like that or power tools fridge etc. With the location I put the ecoflow where I wanted it and ran extension leads to the workshop caravan etc so that it diddnt have to be moved. We did need to adapt the caravan lead to a standard wall plug but one of these is what you need and just plug it straight in. (make sure your caravan has the correct sized output 16 or 32 amp) so that it fits the adapter www.zoro.co.uk/shop/electrical-and-lighting/plugs-and-connectors/13a-plug-to-230v-32a-connector/p/ZT3377873S?B%7C%2BElectrical%20%26%20Lighting&ZT3377873S&targetid=pla-1995579823147&loc_physical_ms=1007294&dev=c&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoPOwBhAeEiwAJuXRh7VOxIyW8p0RqQi8EGjNFzuvSjbqPIIeeaFCCF2TK29ONEYLIQatxxoC2mUQAvD_BwE
Really good video mate, I like the editing too. 😊
Thank you very much!
Really interesting that thanks.
The EcoFlow app is a let down, connecting and that automation setup would be brilliant.
As you say connection is lame, we Have a delta max 2, mini & the power kit system powering some of house, cabin office and garage.
Really like them overall but the app sucks, in our garage also have a small simple victron small setup that just works ticks over connects.
Really like the idea of hydro and wind been learning about it and this helps thank you.
Sam
Thanks! if the app worked as it said it should it would be an amazing system because you could do all kinds of automation but we can't even manage to add our devices to the automation section. It is also good having the generator come on automatically which saves a job. Sounds good that you also have some viltron components I have heard they are the best
@@beyondtheworkbench
Same can’t add them doesn’t detect them what so ever, Hopefully they realise it sucks.
The victron thing I like is it modular and if ever needed too can replace a part, never needed too the equipment is good and app is simple in a way no faff within it.
Looks a great house project you got going on .
Thanks take care Sam
Thanks Sam@@samhartfieldlewis5247
Yes the app has issues.
A lot of people use Home Assistant to control and monitor Ecoflow kit successfully.
Good idea@@sjames1958
Ecoflow powerstream maybe your answer
That looks awesome! If we weren't about to change over to a full inverter I would definitely get one
The PowerStream will only work in an on grid situation.
It's not for off grid
Ah thats no good then@@sjames1958
There is an adjustible power buck converter from 230V to different DC voltages depending on your requirement. Like 230V to 73.5V, 62B, 49.5V, 26V, 13.8V to directly charge your ecoflow
I haddnt heard of that but thank you so much for the reccomendation I will have a look