This 65 year old grandpa took your advise. I purchased the tool through your affiliate link. I grew up in a bucket truck. At 17 I was taking down Elm trees over mobile homes that died from the dutch elm disease. We used the old blue steel case Homelites. You could drop them from 50 feet and you may just bend a bar. I also walked in 2 feet of snow to the bus stop! lol.
Would like to add to this a bit. You probably don't want idle high enough that the chain is moving. This means that the clutch is partially engaged and dragging. This will cause clutch pad wear. As for high settings, you do want to back off if the highest rev as you said. It is not about rpm though, it's about fuel mix. When the engine is revving the highest, the mix is too lean. When it runs lean, it runs hot. And when there is less fuel, there is less 2 stroke oil. Better to run a little more rich as you said by backing out a little. Thanks for the video. Great visual aid!
Ha! This Old Guy watched this on my iPhone 8. Great video. My 455 Rancher stalls out at idle speed. I thought for sure I would be taking the orange engine cover off to get into a can of worms. I bought the tool at local auto parts store. Great tip! Old Guys Rock!!!!
Ya bro....this was exactly what I was looking for. You just gotta have the right tool for the job. A 5$ tool from Amazon to tune my expensive saw isn't terrible to have. Thanks
Just stripped down my husqvarna 240e! Tried your tip worked a treat chainsaw runs as sweet as a nut😊it used to always cut out 😢 thanks for this excellent tip!
great video ..that tool is a must .. Like you I attempted to make one from some tube . Forget it Buy the tool. I must confess, I removed the carb and used a hacksaw to make a screwdriver slot in both adjusters . cutting through the aluminium guide surround . It worked perfectly . just a small point ,, the motor should be warmed up to set the carb correctly .. Great video and at 76 years old it is refreshing to see youngsters with a brain .congratulations on a great video .I have loads of knowledge but am not computer savvy .. so uploading videos is a tad impossible for me . if you err on the slightly rich side the motor will pick up cleanly and run cooler . how about a nice video for the masses ,on how to adjust the chain tension after sharpening .Also how tight do the blade bar nuts need to be in lb ft / newtons . snug,-snug plus -grunt or , double grunt tight .
Yes, that tool is a "must" but come on, what an idiot who put this together. There's a half dozen different potential tools, but ah yes, like his "undeducated" name..... no mention, leaving his viewers clueless, in the dark, and "uneducated"
Fantastic video. Purchased a 141 for $25 from a guy at a yard sale. Replaced the carb and did a tune up in my garage. Had a hard time keeping the chainsaw running after it got hot so I took it to a local Husqvarna dealer thinking they would adjust the carburetor and get it back to me at minimal cost. After keeping it for three weeks they called an said I had water in my fuel and needed a new carb. I replied with "I'll be right there to pick up my chainsaw:. I was taught a $25, the diagnostic cost, lesson. I brought it home watched your video and had it running like a champ in five minutes. Thanks for the video wish i would have watched it sooner. Live and learn.
The dealer was trying to get me to agree to a carb replacement. I guess this storyline works on some people. Water doesn't harm the card lying mechanics do. Great thing about the internet I left them a one star rating only because there wasn't something lower.
I too have learned that some “repairmen” take advantage of every situation and are untrustworthy. You can learn to do most repairs necessary with the right tools, determination and patience.
We have a local repair guy who seems to be lying. Every time we bring something to him it is a big repair. Also in the shop it starts straight away and runs fine but at home it doesn't work well...
I'm not a grandpa but don't be knocking them old head; you can learn a thing or two from them young buck like mentioning the GIANT idle screw on top of carburator. I do appreciate fact you replaced carburator and had one to demonstrate what to do, very nice touch.
Thanks for clearly explaining the Hi/Lo carb adjustment. My Husky keeps staling and I'm running out of swear words, the special wrench is in the mail from Amazon. I miss the good old days of small regular screwdriver adjusting! You explained the idle and high speed adjusting very well, Thanks
Thank you so so very much for this video!! I had been looking everywhere for a video to adjust the carburetor for a Husqvarna 125B blower. I found a lot of videos on rebuilding the carburetor as well as a little mention about the adjustment, but nobody went straight to the point and showed what you did. Your video had my blower running again in less than two minutes. Thanks again!
Thanks man. Just what I needed. My saw wouldn't start when the muffler was attached but it ran fine when the muffler was not installed. Couldn't figure it out adjusting the carb to the trick
Thanks for pointing out the carb adjustment tool and the too lean setting. I loaned out one of my saws and it got cooked after the person who borrowed it set it too lean. An expensive lesson for me. Keep up the good work.
I'll bet you the person that borrowed it didn't mess with the carburetor they probably were lazy and cheap so they straight gassed it because it didn't belong to them and they didn't give a shit.
I’ve tuned lots of saws over the years but this 435 I got at auction was giving me fits, turns out that these little saws, this particular one anyways needed way different baseline settings. Hi and low jet are usually the 1-1.25 turns which is right for mid size to larger saws but these small saw are different apparently, I had to turn my low jet out 2+ turns. I always pay attention to where the previous owner had it set at when I seat them and this one was at 2.5 turns and I thought wow this guy was running his low jet really fat but then ended up not far from it in the end 🤔.Setting the idle was the biggest setback because I'm use to being able to see the carburetor/throttle engagement on the same side of the tuning screws/jets... This saw has the engagement on the right side of the carburetor (the part where you can watch the idle screw come into contact with the butterfly lever), back your idle screw all the way off the throttle and then screw it back in until it just barely touches and starts to move the lever, then go a 1/8-1/4 turn more.
Just so people know, and this is important, make sure your air filter is clean first. Now, after backing screws back out 1 and 1/4 turns, and getting machine to idle properly, let it warm up for a full 5 minutes before attempting to adjust the high speed jet. If it is new adjust the high speed with just a tad of 4 stroking occurring, until it has broken in properly.
Thank you sir! Just followed what you said! Huge help! So I turned both in and from factory my low idle was less then a 1/4 turn in and out. I tried your suggestions but it wouldn’t run. My low idle was literally 1/4 or less. Idk why but when I reset it to the way it came it ran perfect.
You have limiters on your saw to keep you from messing with the adjustment. If the saw runs perfect there's no need to mess with the adjustment or tune the carb.
I set the high idle the way you recommended and then dialled her in. She runs perfect. Just odd that the low setting was so low. New carb. New gaskets. New plug, new air filter, new fuel lines, new fuel filter etc. Worth it tho. She runs like dream. This is not my saw. It’s the one my wife wanted to get going. It’s a perfect saw. Lite and easy to use.
Like this video and audio descriptions. Would like to see it in action. I just replaced my original Zama carby because it just would not respond to adjustments. So starting from scratch was a dark arts exercise and the settings I have mean the saw doesn't shut off whilst idling, but the chain sometimes spins fast for no reason at all, then creeps, then might speed up again! These things are temperamental is all I'd say. I'd rather have and old skool McCulloch....
I had the same happening on my 240 after rebuilding the carb; the saw was oscillating on idle. And yes the Low and High screws are about 2.5 rotation out at start up
With/ without Cain and bar, proper chain tension... all this plays into whether your chain is barely creeping along the bar. Also what about the idle screw. What’s the baseline for that? Warm or cold saw when setting baseline? How does it run on a cold start?
One of the things people don't know is that Husqvarna has an RPM limiter built into the ignition circuit. It makes it pretty much foolproof for MAX RPM. Just realize that if you run the engine TOO LEAN you can put a hole in the piston. The best High adjustment should be just coming back into the lean side after it breaks into a "4-cycle" sound. When it's right it might have just a tiny bit of 4-cycle with no load, full throttle. Stihl doesn't have the RPM Limiter .. so be careful. I have no reference information about Poulon even though they are an illegitimate child of Husqvarna. Does it have or doesn't it have the same RPM limiter that Husqvarna does? I dunnow.
I picked up a set of those tools on Amazon, tried this and it still won’t run right. It revs high when it does actually start, but it dies within 10 seconds or so. I guess I’m going to have to take the carburetor apart and give her a good cleaning. My dad bought this saw probably seven years ago, he used it on one job building a log cabin, by the end of the job it wasn’t running right and it has just been sitting ever since. I drained the fuel and put in new with Seafoam added in, and gave her a couple squirts of cleaner through the intake when I could actually get it to fire up, hoping it would clean things up, to no avail. It’s funny, last weekend I rebuilt my first carburetor, looks like this weekend I’ll be doing my second 😂 I can’t find any videos online for this specific saw, all of the husky carburetor videos I can find are quite a bit different. Maybe I’ll have to bust out the old GoPro and record my struggles, maybe I can save someone else a bit of a trial and error lmao. It really looks like it’s going to be a pain to get this carb off. Honestly don’t even know where to start… guess I’ll just start pulling screws and see what’s happens lol. Thanks for the info though, good to know the baseline for the adjustment screws
You should ad sound and rpm meter. Just to make it high tech as you mentioned at the beginning. That would show the idle rpm, which depends on the bar and chain you have on it to. Also you didn't mention anything about the idle/throttle screw Watch the Steve small engine chanel and get some directions on it.... Waiting for you to improve. Keep going
It would seem that you completely ignored the larger screw on the top with the slot. That's the one I started turning and it really didn't lower my idle. Now I don't know how to set that screw could you elaborate.
I have the exact same question. Any procedure for how to set baseline on the LARGE idle screw? I assume you’d do this before adjusting the L and H screws? Seems that some saws have this adjustment and some don’t. Thanks!
I appreciate your effort making the video. However, you have the Carburetor upside down in the video. The Low is on the left and the High is on the right. Just letting you know. Thanks.
I have the same saw on and my chain spins at idle. I'll try to adjust as you suggest. Thanks for the info. PS-I'm a Grandpa with a flip phone but no offense taken.
Mike Palucci 😂😂 Thank you so much for tuning in, I retract my old man statement now! But yes, the chain spinning doesn’t affect anything, just more of a safety thing... small turn of the low adjustment should fix it up. Glad I could help!
I need an adjustment tool for my 440. Having a heck of a time finding the right one. I don’t want to buy an entire set for every small engine ever made. Does anyone know exactly where I can get one? A link would be appreciated. Thanks.
This 65 year old grandpa took your advise. I purchased the tool through your affiliate link. I grew up in a bucket truck. At 17 I was taking down Elm trees over mobile homes that died from the dutch elm disease. We used the old blue steel case Homelites. You could drop them from 50 feet and you may just bend a bar. I also walked in 2 feet of snow to the bus stop! lol.
From one outdoorsman to another, thank you so much.
60 year old guy got it running like a champ! First time ever doing this. Tim me only 10 minutes after watching the video. You rock
Would like to add to this a bit. You probably don't want idle high enough that the chain is moving. This means that the clutch is partially engaged and dragging. This will cause clutch pad wear. As for high settings, you do want to back off if the highest rev as you said. It is not about rpm though, it's about fuel mix. When the engine is revving the highest, the mix is too lean. When it runs lean, it runs hot. And when there is less fuel, there is less 2 stroke oil. Better to run a little more rich as you said by backing out a little. Thanks for the video. Great visual aid!
Great points. 🤓
Completely understand after watching just once. Thank you
Ha! This Old Guy watched this on my iPhone 8. Great video. My 455 Rancher stalls out at idle speed. I thought for sure I would be taking the orange engine cover off to get into a can of worms. I bought the tool at local auto parts store. Great tip!
Old Guys Rock!!!!
This video helped me out a ton. Fought my chainsaw all morning, used this trick and bam had it tuned in 5 min
Excellent...exactly what I needed to see. Clear video and CLEAR audio...good job.
Ya bro....this was exactly what I was looking for. You just gotta have the right tool for the job. A 5$ tool from Amazon to tune my expensive saw isn't terrible to have. Thanks
Thanks for the clear video. I like the fact you even acknowledge that many videos don't slowly show you what they are doing! Thanks for the content 😀
Just stripped down my husqvarna 240e! Tried your tip worked a treat chainsaw runs as sweet as a nut😊it used to always cut out 😢 thanks for this excellent tip!
I needed the base line adjustments and you had them. Thanks! Excellent job!
great video ..that tool is a must .. Like you I attempted to make one from some tube . Forget it Buy the tool. I must confess, I removed the carb and used a hacksaw to make a screwdriver slot in both adjusters . cutting through the aluminium guide surround . It worked perfectly . just a small point ,, the motor should be warmed up to set the carb correctly .. Great video and at 76 years old it is refreshing to see youngsters with a brain .congratulations on a great video .I have loads of knowledge but am not computer savvy .. so uploading videos is a tad impossible for me . if you err on the slightly rich side the motor will pick up cleanly and run cooler . how about a nice video for the masses ,on how to adjust the chain tension after sharpening .Also how tight do the blade bar nuts need to be in lb ft / newtons . snug,-snug plus -grunt or , double grunt tight .
I also cut through the adjustment screws to make a slot. But I was a bit more precise and used a slitting saw on a milling machine. Worked perfectly
Yes, that tool is a "must" but come on, what an idiot who put this together. There's a half dozen different potential tools, but ah yes, like his "undeducated" name..... no mention, leaving his viewers clueless, in the dark, and "uneducated"
Fantastic video. Purchased a 141 for $25 from a guy at a yard sale. Replaced the carb and did a tune up in my garage. Had a hard time keeping the chainsaw running after it got hot so I took it to a local Husqvarna dealer thinking they would adjust the carburetor and get it back to me at minimal cost. After keeping it for three weeks they called an said I had water in my fuel and needed a new carb. I replied with "I'll be right there to pick up my chainsaw:. I was taught a $25, the diagnostic cost, lesson. I brought it home watched your video and had it running like a champ in five minutes. Thanks for the video wish i would have watched it sooner. Live and learn.
It's easy enough to tell is there is water in your fuel. Dump it into a glass jar and see if water settles in the bottom.
Why would water in the fuel damage the carb ?
The dealer was trying to get me to agree to a carb replacement. I guess this storyline works on some people. Water doesn't harm the card lying mechanics do. Great thing about the internet I left them a one star rating only because there wasn't something lower.
I too have learned that some “repairmen” take advantage of every situation and are untrustworthy. You can learn to do most repairs necessary with the right tools, determination and patience.
We have a local repair guy who seems to be lying. Every time we bring something to him it is a big repair. Also in the shop it starts straight away and runs fine but at home it doesn't work well...
Basic information clearly presented providing good instruction.
I'm not a grandpa but don't be knocking them old head; you can learn a thing or two from them young buck like mentioning the GIANT idle screw on top of carburator. I do appreciate fact you replaced carburator and had one to demonstrate what to do, very nice touch.
Exactly
Super helpful! luckily I bought a carb adjustment tool kit for my weed eater, but it came with the needed one for the husquvarna !
Thanks for the video. You know this is exactly how to set carburetors on cars made in the 1970's
I just got my adjustment tool, watched your video, and now my Husqvarna 235 is running great after 10 years of thinking it was a POS! Great video.
😂😂👍
Was it a spline tool?
Thanks for the info, always set my saws to the shop but not anymore…. Winning 👍🏼
Forgot UA-cam pw and did a pw reset just so I could sign in and comment “great, simple, short video. Thanks!”
Thanks for clearly explaining the Hi/Lo carb adjustment. My Husky keeps staling and I'm running out of swear words, the special wrench is in the mail from Amazon. I miss the good old days of small regular screwdriver adjusting! You explained the idle and high speed adjusting very well, Thanks
Well done. I haven't worked on a saw in a while. Half blind as well....thanks for pointing out where idle adjustment screws were.
Thank you so so very much for this video!! I had been looking everywhere for a video to adjust the carburetor for a Husqvarna 125B blower. I found a lot of videos on rebuilding the carburetor as well as a little mention about the adjustment, but nobody went straight to the point and showed what you did. Your video had my blower running again in less than two minutes. Thanks again!
Exactly what I was looking for, and you're right, the other videos are confusing. Thanks!
Thanks man. Just what I needed. My saw wouldn't start when the muffler was attached but it ran fine when the muffler was not installed. Couldn't figure it out adjusting the carb to the trick
Thank you, no wasted words!
Outstanding. Simple and easy to remember.
Tool ordered
Helpful video. Dumb that we need a very special tool for something so basic and fundamental.
Hey thanks, I was just looking for a base line and you told me it from the get go.
Thanks for pointing out the carb adjustment tool and the too lean setting. I loaned out one of my saws and it got cooked after the person who borrowed it set it too lean. An expensive lesson for me.
Keep up the good work.
I'll bet you the person that borrowed it didn't mess with the carburetor they probably were lazy and cheap so they straight gassed it because it didn't belong to them and they didn't give a shit.
😊@@stoneyswolf
Hi, thanks, better than many other as you don't stuff about and just cut to the chase. Great, thanks.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
Thank you! I was lost in trying to find or make the correct tool. So glad you left the link below.
Great, simple, clear how-to video! Well done!
I’ve tuned lots of saws over the years but this 435 I got at auction was giving me fits, turns out that these little saws, this particular one anyways needed way different baseline settings. Hi and low jet are usually the 1-1.25 turns which is right for mid size to larger saws but these small saw are different apparently, I had to turn my low jet out 2+ turns. I always pay attention to where the previous owner had it set at when I seat them and this one was at 2.5 turns and I thought wow this guy was running his low jet really fat but then ended up not far from it in the end 🤔.Setting the idle was the biggest setback because I'm use to being able to see the carburetor/throttle engagement on the same side of the tuning screws/jets... This saw has the engagement on the right side of the carburetor (the part where you can watch the idle screw come into contact with the butterfly lever), back your idle screw all the way off the throttle and then screw it back in until it just barely touches and starts to move the lever, then go a 1/8-1/4 turn more.
Thanks for your input on adjusting smaller sized chainsaws.
Thanks also for this. I’m in the process of tuning mine using 1 1/2 and it’s not working. I’ll play around with 2 1/2+
Very food video, thanks, now my chainsaw IS running ok
Perfect, love it and needed it.
I have the exact same saw! Thanks bro
Thanks for a straight forward education high quality video.
Excellent video, simple and right to the point.
Very well explained video. And it was a great visual aide with the carburetor. Thanks :)
Make sure the plug is new and air filter is new or cleaned prior to adjustment to make sure it's accurate and your firing and airfuel flow is at max
Just used your instructions after almost giving up but after your video it's running as new.
When tuning at max RPM the other reason for going 1/4 turn richer is to preserve torque under throttle when the chain is loading the engine.
Concise and on the money, TY.
Thanks! Great explanation and great quality.
Yes and to add to you for small engines like nitro engines it's the same process to TuneIn I like this video
Great video! Thanks for your help!😊
Just so people know, and this is important, make sure your air filter is clean first. Now, after backing screws back out 1 and 1/4 turns, and getting machine to idle properly, let it warm up for a full 5 minutes before attempting to adjust the high speed jet. If it is new adjust the high speed with just a tad of 4 stroking occurring, until it has broken in properly.
you forgot to mention the idle screw but apart from that it is by far the best video out there. thanks mate
Right! Any idea where to start with the idle setting?
Probably one of the best videos explaining this
This video tells clearly what the 'baseline turning' is all about. Not every videos stated it even their explanations are very detail.
Just figured out my old Husqvarna 359 simply needs a very small flat head screwdriver to adjust the carb. Thanks!
Great video! God Bless!
Very descriptive, awesome job.
Great video bud, thanks!
Thank you sir!
Just followed what you said!
Huge help!
So I turned both in and from factory my low idle was less then a 1/4 turn in and out.
I tried your suggestions but it wouldn’t run.
My low idle was literally 1/4 or less. Idk why but when I reset it to the way it came it ran perfect.
You have limiters on your saw to keep you from messing with the adjustment. If the saw runs perfect there's no need to mess with the adjustment or tune the carb.
I set the high idle the way you recommended and then dialled her in. She runs perfect.
Just odd that the low setting was so low.
New carb. New gaskets. New plug, new air filter, new fuel lines, new fuel filter etc.
Worth it tho. She runs like dream.
This is not my saw. It’s the one my wife wanted to get going.
It’s a perfect saw. Lite and easy to use.
Best video out there. Thanks bro
Although I'm an old guy the "filmed by Grandpas on their Samsung flip phones" was good stuff
Like this video and audio descriptions. Would like to see it in action. I just replaced my original Zama carby because it just would not respond to adjustments. So starting from scratch was a dark arts exercise and the settings I have mean the saw doesn't shut off whilst idling, but the chain sometimes spins fast for no reason at all, then creeps, then might speed up again! These things are temperamental is all I'd say. I'd rather have and old skool McCulloch....
I had the same happening on my 240 after rebuilding the carb; the saw was oscillating on idle. And yes the Low and High screws are about 2.5 rotation out at start up
With/ without Cain and bar, proper chain tension... all this plays into whether your chain is barely creeping along the bar. Also what about the idle screw. What’s the baseline for that? Warm or cold saw when setting baseline? How does it run on a cold start?
the best video i fixt it 2 sequence
Great video! Answered my question.
One of the things people don't know is that Husqvarna has an RPM limiter built into the ignition circuit. It makes it pretty much foolproof for MAX RPM.
Just realize that if you run the engine TOO LEAN you can put a hole in the piston.
The best High adjustment should be just coming back into the lean side after it breaks into a "4-cycle" sound.
When it's right it might have just a tiny bit of 4-cycle with no load, full throttle.
Stihl doesn't have the RPM Limiter .. so be careful. I have no reference information about Poulon even though they are an illegitimate child of Husqvarna.
Does it have or doesn't it have the same RPM limiter that Husqvarna does? I dunnow.
Very well done! Thank you
I picked up a set of those tools on Amazon, tried this and it still won’t run right. It revs high when it does actually start, but it dies within 10 seconds or so. I guess I’m going to have to take the carburetor apart and give her a good cleaning. My dad bought this saw probably seven years ago, he used it on one job building a log cabin, by the end of the job it wasn’t running right and it has just been sitting ever since. I drained the fuel and put in new with Seafoam added in, and gave her a couple squirts of cleaner through the intake when I could actually get it to fire up, hoping it would clean things up, to no avail. It’s funny, last weekend I rebuilt my first carburetor, looks like this weekend I’ll be doing my second 😂
I can’t find any videos online for this specific saw, all of the husky carburetor videos I can find are quite a bit different. Maybe I’ll have to bust out the old GoPro and record my struggles, maybe I can save someone else a bit of a trial and error lmao. It really looks like it’s going to be a pain to get this carb off. Honestly don’t even know where to start… guess I’ll just start pulling screws and see what’s happens lol.
Thanks for the info though, good to know the baseline for the adjustment screws
Nice info. Thanks Bud.
Thank you young man!
Know how,,,,been doing it 40 years😊😊😊😊
As a grandpa who owns a Galaxy S7 kiss my rosey red one whippersnapper. That aside, good video.
Great job!
You should ad sound and rpm meter. Just to make it high tech as you mentioned at the beginning. That would show the idle rpm, which depends on the bar and chain you have on it to. Also you didn't mention anything about the idle/throttle screw
Watch the Steve small engine chanel and get some directions on it....
Waiting for you to improve. Keep going
You talk about the high and low jets but what about the Idle screw?
Turn up until chain just starts to move, then back off just until chain stops moving.
It would seem that you completely ignored the larger screw on the top with the slot. That's the one I started turning and it really didn't lower my idle. Now I don't know how to set that screw could you elaborate.
I have the exact same question. Any procedure for how to set baseline on the LARGE idle screw? I assume you’d do this before adjusting the L and H screws? Seems that some saws have this adjustment and some don’t. Thanks!
Good job. Was helpful. Thank you
Great instructions.
In Sweden we use the idle screw to adjust the idle...
Dude, such a great video, thank you so much
Yes good video couldn't have put it any easier. Huskys are touchy af!
I appreciate your effort making the video. However, you have the Carburetor upside down in the video. The Low is on the left and the High is on the right. Just letting you know. Thanks.
Thanks grandpa
thanks(I think) Mr. Grampa.
Concise info!
Well done! Thank you!
Great cheers dude.
A part or order number for that adjustment driver would be useful
The whole set of adjustment tools for most brands is available at most home improvement stores for 12 dollars
The correct tool is the 21 spline screw driver?
Out/Rich - In/Lean
Well done thanks, done it
Thank you very much
I have the same saw on and my chain spins at idle. I'll try to adjust as you suggest. Thanks for the info.
PS-I'm a Grandpa with a flip phone but no offense taken.
Mike Palucci 😂😂 Thank you so much for tuning in, I retract my old man statement now! But yes, the chain spinning doesn’t affect anything, just more of a safety thing... small turn of the low adjustment should fix it up. Glad I could help!
@@theuneducatedoutdoorsman9636 Wrong! Small turn of the IDLE screw, counterclockwise, until the chain stops moving.
Thank you!
Awesome video
great video thanks
Excellent mate thank you A++++
Thought the letter t also on husqvarna chainsaw is for idling speed. My chainsaw chain is spinning on idle
What is the baseline for the stationary screw?
Would this be the same adj for my 128ld weed wacker...thanks
I need an adjustment tool for my 440. Having a heck of a time finding the right one. I don’t want to buy an entire set for every small engine ever made. Does anyone know exactly where I can get one? A link would be appreciated. Thanks.