Keith Davis I've pulled that plug out of several echos and other trimmers. The heated small screw driver or small drill bit works great. Just heat and insert and then WAIT about thirty seconds. Once it cools it holds on much better. You can't just heat, insert and start immediately twisting or pulling. Give it a little time to set up.
One point no-one mentioned is CARB (California Air Resource Board) has mandated Zero Emission on small equipment requiring all small engines be replaced with battery packs. 2-Cycle has been banned in Calif for many years and now everything under 50HP is outlawed. How long until all states follow their master plan? I saw a Ryobi push mower for 900$ in another video, the replacement battery packs (2) were 219 each.
The brass piece is removable if you disassemble the carb and use a good pair of pliers , like Knipex pliers to remove the plug. I think I might invest in the Echo 2.5mm tool. My problem is the compression and the carburetor itself. Compression is 88 psi. I ordered a new carb so we will see if that's the issue or is it the compression. Spark arrestor and port are very clean. Thanks for the video. I have owned Echo for years with the High Low and Idle screws that are very visible and I wish they would have never changed to these , so called , fixed carburetors
Didn't realize how bad my weed eater was running until I tried this modification, now I'm getting twice the power at half the throttle I normally use. Thank you!!
Just grab a drill bit that will fit snugly into the brass plug , the end of the drill bit that fits in the drill ,, NOT the cutting end , after getting a bit that fits snugly into the brass just pop it out sideways !
GREAT JOB! I got my plug out the same way and unscrewed the jet to clean but forgot to screw it in for the baseline setting. Trail and error didn't get it running. I'm going to start at 1 1/2 turns out and adjust. My new Ebat $15 card runs the same as the old one , so I have two carbs to experiment with. Thanks for the video!!
On a 225 it’s just a slotted screw behind the plug. On the 2620 there’s no plugs, the high and low adjustments have to be made with a “micro d” tool. I was lucky enough to find the Echo adjustment set with a “micro d” tool and a “single d” tool but they’re kinda pricey.but well made.
@@andybecker2693 hey Andy where can I buy the tools for the 2620? I recently bought a new 2620 trimmer and it vibrates more than my old one. What could the issue? Thanks!
@@andybecker2693 I bought a brand new 2620 Trimmer and it vibrates a lot. My 4 year old 2620 is butter smooth. What do you think could be the issue? Thanks
Nick Grottenthaler I got a trimmer with 8 years use on it. Still running good. Have another that got a donor engine off an edger, still running good. Lightweight trimmers, don’t vibrate much. My dad uses maruyama. He tears stuff up but they’re still running strong. Changing the grips and throttle cable out on two of them right now 😂
Yea I hear you, it's neat though. People think I'm crazy but it's interesting and helpful. I'm always surprised at how many hours I really do put on equipment in a season
You have to love the EPA. Is the equipment being run at sea level or at 7000 feet? Makes big difference for the carb adjustment for a carb that can not be adjusted. No, one size does not fit all. I have lived at both elevations. Thanks to you, I now know how to adjust them.
Yea haha. I'd be curious to know if dealers run into issues at higher altitudes. If they have customers complaining do they have to adjust 1000s? Glad it helped out!
@@jasonfrat9813 I have no idea. I currently live near sea level. When I lived at 7000 feet, you could adjust them. This was over 20 years ago. Today, almost every piece of equipment I have bought, 2 cycle, bogs. Guessing that they adjust at factory for about 3000 foot. Bet that they are all running to lean. Looking at more than a little adjusting here.
@@TheLittlered1961 Its a shame really. I do know that the stihl dealers will test and tune purchased equipment for people. I recommend most people that cannot do it themselves to go the dealer route. Ive heard so many people complain of poor performance from brand new equipment and if there is no anti tamper it can be tunned in a couple minutes (allowing for warm up).
@@jasonfrat9813 Sadly not all of us can afford Stihl. Most of us go to home des pot. $80 vs $120 or more is a big thing. Yes, I know, Chinesiam vs good quality. Then again not big fan of our Stihl dealers here. Fuel intake hose rotted out on my Stihl chainsaw. They gave me the wrong part. Took same saw to another dealer for a tune up. Do not have RPM meter that can read 13,0000 RPM. They replaced the spark plug. Used 2 cycle gas, then starting fluid. Would not start and lost compression. Let it sit for a year or two thinking I screwed up the cylinder. For S&Gs I tried to start it again. Good compression. Think the rings got stuck. Still would not start. Checked the spark plug. No spark and plug was clean as a whistle. Engine never ran with that new plug they put in. Put new plug in and ran great. Moral of the story. Price does not guarantee good results.
@@TheLittlered1961 Wow that's terrible they jerked you around like that. Believe been I know what you mean about the cost. That echo I have has been great so far. Cheap too
I know you’re limited on space but I would move that hour meter away from the back where you have it. It’s an air cooled engine forced by the fan and exits out the back. The engine could overheat.
If it is smooth across the surface of the brass you're seeing, I would say you have just a brass plug. Perhaps that carb is a different model and that is just a plug for cleaning purposes?
Thanks , Maybe so, after the drill didn't remove all the plug I tried a 1/8"reverse thrd screw , it backed the plug out along with the brass ring around it! The echo looks identical to yours , being 2 year old maybe the EPA change the carb design so its not possible to set , my luck.
I ruined the screw getting the plug out. Tried torx and drilling. It's difficult to tell when you're thru the plug until it's too late. HAS to be a better way.
Sorry to hear that, the only other thing I thought of was a small perhaps dental pick that you could pierce through the plastic plug and then hook it from the back and pull it out. However there is not much room between the plastic plug and the jet. Still worth saving the carb if you buy that jet online.
My method, as suggested by another tuber, was to use a picture hanger screw small enough to fit. Forcing it in with needle nose pliers. Then when I feel its in far enough, I then wiggle and pull on it and out it comes easy easy! Hope this helps someone!
Keith Davis
I've pulled that plug out of several echos and other trimmers. The heated small screw driver or small drill bit works great. Just heat and insert and then WAIT about thirty seconds. Once it cools it holds on much better. You can't just heat, insert and start immediately twisting or pulling. Give it a little time to set up.
The heat poke works like a charm
T8 fit like a glove and worked it right out! Thanks. Always used the heat and cuss method before .cheers
Small drill bit, heat the bit and insert it into the plastic plug, leave the bit in, let it cool and pull it out with pliers
Yup, it works just fine. EPA is creating problems where none existed before Again.
To push their stupid green agenda....
Long live Respectful Americas and the and citizens of the world.
One point no-one mentioned is CARB (California Air Resource Board) has mandated Zero Emission on small equipment requiring all small engines be replaced with battery packs. 2-Cycle has been banned in Calif for many years and now everything under 50HP is outlawed. How long until all states follow their master plan? I saw a Ryobi push mower for 900$ in another video, the replacement battery packs (2) were 219 each.
gotta love commieforina. Its always such bs with that state.
CARBifornia is gay and semitic communist. Battery powered weeders are trash.
Thank you, been searching through youtube and it was your video that helped! I used the 7/64 bit method and it worked flawlessly.
I'm glad it helped. I appreciate the feedback
The brass piece is removable if you disassemble the carb and use a good pair of pliers , like Knipex pliers to remove the plug. I think I might invest in the Echo 2.5mm tool.
My problem is the compression and the carburetor itself.
Compression is 88 psi.
I ordered a new carb so we will see if that's the issue or is it the compression. Spark arrestor and port are very clean.
Thanks for the video.
I have owned Echo for years with the High Low and Idle screws that are very visible and I wish they would have never changed to these , so called , fixed carburetors
I bought a 26/28cc goped "High performance " carb and the screws were easy to access.
Thank you so much for this video I drilled out the plug with the 7/64 drill bit worked like a charm THANK YOU!!! subscribed and liked!!!
Thanks I appreciate it! Glad it worked good for you.
Didn't realize how bad my weed eater was running until I tried this modification, now I'm getting twice the power at half the throttle I normally use. Thank you!!
If you remove that plug. Does it void out the warranty.
Yes it would void the warranty. Echo does these adjustments under your warranty
I took the carburator off and there is enough of he brass sticking up that I was able to grab the brass with mini channel locks and unthread it.
Just grab a drill bit that will fit snugly into the brass plug , the end of the drill bit that fits in the drill ,, NOT the cutting end , after getting a bit that fits snugly into the brass just pop it out sideways !
GREAT JOB! I got my plug out the same way and unscrewed the jet to clean but forgot to screw it in for the baseline setting. Trail and error didn't get it running. I'm going to start at 1 1/2 turns out and adjust. My new Ebat $15 card runs the same as the old one , so I have two carbs to experiment with. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks, good luck with yours!
That TACH will help guide you to optimum high speed jet. Engine can rev to about 9000 rpm max and then enrich to 8000 rpm.
Use a drywall screw at an angle it gets it right out..
How do you sync the main meter screw, the idle meter screw and the the throttle barrel positioning screw?
would this boost torque?
OK SO how many turns did you end up on the screw ?? counter or clockwise ?
Hey guy great video. Can you tell me the size of the thin carb adjustment tool your are using. Is it a packman or half D?
Thanks
On a 225 it’s just a slotted screw behind the plug. On the 2620 there’s no plugs, the high and low adjustments have to be made with a “micro d” tool. I was lucky enough to find the Echo adjustment set with a “micro d” tool and a “single d” tool but they’re kinda pricey.but well made.
@@andybecker2693 hey Andy where can I buy the tools for the 2620? I recently bought a new 2620 trimmer and it vibrates more than my old one. What could the issue? Thanks!
No one will sell the Echo micro d adjustment tool, but just Google it and there are a couple of options.
@@andybecker2693 I bought a brand new 2620 Trimmer and it vibrates a lot. My 4 year old 2620 is butter smooth. What do you think could be the issue? Thanks
@@chewarmstrong Not sure but I would take it back to the dealer unless you bought it online.
LOVE YOU BRO! I’m back in business! Thanks!
Glad it helped you man!
I just got my carburetor rebuilt and now my SRM210 is running super fast, even without the gas on the head is turning like I'm giving ot gas.
Could just be idle screw adjustment. Otherwise I'd check for a lean condition
Do you have it at full or partial throttle when making your adjustment?
Full throttle
Great lighting
Can you burn the engine this way? since your are making it go faster?
The rpm is fine. If anything it will last longer bot running so lean
Wish I would have thought of putting hour meters on my equipment. I would be curious to know how many hours are on my redmax 8500 in the past 7 years.
I had a Redmax that lasted 12 years commercially, would've loved to know the hrs. on it!
Nick Grottenthaler I got a trimmer with 8 years use on it. Still running good. Have another that got a donor engine off an edger, still running good. Lightweight trimmers, don’t vibrate much. My dad uses maruyama. He tears stuff up but they’re still running strong. Changing the grips and throttle cable out on two of them right now 😂
I like the hour meter. I bought a couple to put on my machines....just have not done it yet :/
Yea I hear you, it's neat though. People think I'm crazy but it's interesting and helpful. I'm always surprised at how many hours I really do put on equipment in a season
Thanks stud! You just saved me up to SIXTY DOLLARS on a new carb!
Prison time and/or fine for violating EPA rules will cost more than SIXTY DOLLARS.
@@set3777 you're probably the stupidest person in the room. Every time.
If you take a punch the size of the plug heat it up let it cool on the plug you can pull it right out
You have to love the EPA. Is the equipment being run at sea level or at 7000 feet? Makes big difference for the carb adjustment for a carb that can not be adjusted. No, one size does not fit all. I have lived at both elevations. Thanks to you, I now know how to adjust them.
Yea haha. I'd be curious to know if dealers run into issues at higher altitudes. If they have customers complaining do they have to adjust 1000s? Glad it helped out!
@@jasonfrat9813 I have no idea. I currently live near sea level. When I lived at 7000 feet, you could adjust them. This was over 20 years ago. Today, almost every piece of equipment I have bought, 2 cycle, bogs. Guessing that they adjust at factory for about 3000 foot. Bet that they are all running to lean. Looking at more than a little adjusting here.
@@TheLittlered1961 Its a shame really. I do know that the stihl dealers will test and tune purchased equipment for people. I recommend most people that cannot do it themselves to go the dealer route. Ive heard so many people complain of poor performance from brand new equipment and if there is no anti tamper it can be tunned in a couple minutes (allowing for warm up).
@@jasonfrat9813 Sadly not all of us can afford Stihl. Most of us go to home des pot. $80 vs $120 or more is a big thing. Yes, I know, Chinesiam vs good quality. Then again not big fan of our Stihl dealers here. Fuel intake hose rotted out on my Stihl chainsaw. They gave me the wrong part. Took same saw to another dealer for a tune up. Do not have RPM meter that can read 13,0000 RPM. They replaced the spark plug. Used 2 cycle gas, then starting fluid. Would not start and lost compression. Let it sit for a year or two thinking I screwed up the cylinder. For S&Gs I tried to start it again. Good compression. Think the rings got stuck. Still would not start. Checked the spark plug. No spark and plug was clean as a whistle. Engine never ran with that new plug they put in. Put new plug in and ran great. Moral of the story. Price does not guarantee good results.
@@TheLittlered1961 Wow that's terrible they jerked you around like that. Believe been I know what you mean about the cost. That echo I have has been great so far. Cheap too
You sound like a celebrity but I just can't think of who it is 😂 😂
Haha I'll take that!
get a paper clip heat the tip to red hot plunge it into the plug let it cool then it pulls right out .
I think these were added so they could be sold in California.
if you push the gray button on your hour meter will show you the RPM's
Thanks so much, best video out there for this issue!
Thanks I appreciate it, glad it helped you!
I know you’re limited on space but I would move that hour meter away from the back where you have it. It’s an air cooled engine forced by the fan and exits out the back. The engine could overheat.
Always take the crappy factory carb off of the 225 and buy a 30$ carb off Amazon
Ouch Finally got down to the brass jet to find an flat surface instead of a slot, How difficult to remove and change jet? Thx
If it is smooth across the surface of the brass you're seeing, I would say you have just a brass plug. Perhaps that carb is a different model and that is just a plug for cleaning purposes?
Thanks , Maybe so, after the drill didn't remove all the plug I tried a 1/8"reverse thrd screw , it backed the plug out along with the brass ring around it! The echo looks identical to yours , being 2 year old maybe the EPA change the carb design so its not possible to set , my luck.
@@bullmastiff9991 Yea very possible. Good luck with it!
So you've adjusted it and now what? Do you replace that plug somehow or just leave it out?
Just leave it out. It serves no positive purpose, only a negative one by blocking your access.
I ruined the screw getting the plug out. Tried torx and drilling. It's difficult to tell when you're thru the plug until it's too late. HAS to be a better way.
Sorry to hear that, the only other thing I thought of was a small perhaps dental pick that you could pierce through the plastic plug and then hook it from the back and pull it out. However there is not much room between the plastic plug and the jet. Still worth saving the carb if you buy that jet online.
The blower works. The problem is worse now. I'll order another. Do they sell them without the plugs?
@@sun622 you can buy them without it but you can also just buy the Jet and save the cost of getting a new carb
My method, as suggested by another tuber, was to use a picture hanger screw small enough to fit. Forcing it in with needle nose pliers. Then when I feel its in far enough, I then wiggle and pull on it and out it comes easy easy! Hope this helps someone!
@@Bluesky-bx2ig Thanks for the advice.
E-P-A…….extreme-people-aggregation !!!!