Awesome. I like to put one coat on the bare wood to let it soak it up, and once that fully dries, I put the fiberglass on. But your method looks great 👍
Great video Though I do have a couple of Tips... On your next boat using fiberglass...start in the middle and work towards the ends. The squeegy motion should be straight from center to the edge (less chance of wrinkles). When rolling on the resin with the roller..chase it perpendicular with a brush. This will take out the ridges the roller leaves.
Hey Adam, word of suggestion you should go through your videos and put them one through whatever how many videos they are in order so somebody needs to see how it’s done in order they can go from one to 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 all the way down to the last one
Very nice, thanks. I wished you would show us your sanding and the sanding steps after the last 4th coat of epoxy was dry and what you do to give it the final whatever after it's final sanding.
Nice! Is it possible to make some how fiberglass not transparent. I mean to see fiber texture? How to get that result? I need to use some colouring component?
So cool! I am looking forward to doing this some day! I made a 4 seat fiberglass airplane so this is one step I would be comfortable with, but would still be fun!
Mike Williams yeah! I ordered some but they were the wrong ratio and I didn’t want to wait to order more so I just went ahead and did it. Those pumps make it a lot easier! Thanks!
Not sure if you’re talking about resin infusion systems but I would recommend using that. Used one to make some custom Jeep parts (hood, fenders, etc) and made life so much easier. Wish I could remember the brand.
Hi, I'm currently building a strip cedar canoe similar to yours. Love your videos, very informative and helping me lots. Im just wondering do your remember how many ltrs of resin/epoxy you used? Thanks in advance
Your production value was really good this video. I'm enjoying every video so far and I can't wait to start sourcing materials for this winter's project. I'm a machinist by trade so I'm curious how those skills will translate to building my first canoe.
That's awesome! Have you done any woodworking before? Metal working seems harder than woodworking to me - probably cause I don't have any experience with metal working. Canoes are much more doable than they look - they just take forever. Thanks for watching, hit me up if you have any questions throughout the process!
I haven't done any woodworking beyond maintenance or construction. From what I've seen machining isn't much more difficult than woodworking, it's all a matter of the process, there are a thousand different ways to do it etc. The mistakes can be a bit more labor intensive to fix and of course costlier. Thanks for the offer of help and if I need any I'll be sure to hit you up.
I didn't see any use of a heat gun to help eliminate air pockets. Thins it out to allow any air to escape. I've walked away from (I thought) a great cloth/epoxy job with a strip built kayak only to come back with air pinholes up to volcanoes. Always judicial heat gun now and it eliminates most all. Nice boat BTW a strip built boat is a thing of beauty and most have no idea the laborious hours that go into building one. I'm building a classic style 14' power boat right now...months into it and months to go.
Hey Adam, Love your videos. I just fiber glassed a cedar strip boat I am building. I have a few areas where the epoxy did not saturate the cloth before it dried. The result is a small area where the cloth is visible. Can I wait until the coat dries and then repair it somehow?
Sorry Tim, but once it dries, you are kind of screwed. You’re only way to fix it is to sand that area all the way down through the fiberglass and then patch it with a soaked little piece of fiberglass. I personally like to saturate the bare wood of the canoe with one coat of epoxy before putting any fiberglass on, this helps prevent that. Good luck!
Malte Musfeldt I second that. Please, please wear gloves when applying or mixing epoxy. Your skin will eventually get sensitized to it and your skin will break out into a rash anytime you come into contact with uncured resin. Once that happens you may even break out when touching some woods and even foods like the oils in the skin of citrus fruits.
Indeed, use gloves! When I saw you guys pour I almost didn't believe it was resin! As you mentioned do your research beforehand and use gloves! Gorgeous craftsmanship tho! Great job!!
Hey Adam, sorry to bug ya again. I am about to the fiberglass epoxy stage of my first canoe project. In terms of buying the fiberglass cloth, does all fiberglass cloth turn transparent when saturated? I have a marine store in the town I live in and they have plenty of fiberglass cloth that looks the same as what you are using. I noticed on the Bear Mountain Boats website the fiberglass they have for sale says "This cloth has been treated for epoxy compatibility". Is that cloth special or are they just being thorough in their description. The guys at the marine store mostly work with commercial fishing boats and don't seem too knowledgeable when it comes to the clear artsy finish I am looking for. Super excited and nervous about this part. Look forward to hearing back from you. Thanks, Tyler p.s. look forward to hearing that guitar
Hey thanks Tyler no problem! This is probably one of those things you could ask different people and get different answers that are all relatively accurate. I kinna wanna say you get what you pay for, and even if anything is good enough I probably wouldn’t chance it cause you already have quite a bit of time and money into the boat so far. I would call the guys at Noah’s marine supply - they’re super knowledgeable and friendly. You could always get some scrap of both and experiment on scrap too ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ good luck that’s exciting!
horatio71 awesome thanks! Yeah I've seen people do that before, I don't know if it helps the lumpiness but it does take out tiny bubbles that form on the surface. I sand the surface when I'm done so it wasn't too big of an issue for me. I know other builders that do that though. Thanks for the sub man!
Joe basementwoodworking yeah it was new to me too, it's mostly for waterproofing and it's super super strong. Really fun to do when you get it right... thanks for watching joe!
A Guy Doing Stuff ALWAYS BROTHER!!& Ahh yea that makes sense..and im guessing the brand and type of epoxy matters also? Like u could t just go to home depot and buy the epoxy theu sell for this..right? Not that you would because it would take like 40 boxes but I meant that specific type of epoxy
Joe basementwoodworking The fibreglass is for strength and it replaces the ribs found in conventionally built wood canoes. It also provides quite a bit of impact resistance. I once hit a submerged rock in a fast flowing river. I got thrown across the thwart, the other person got thrown out of the canoe because of the sudden stop. There wasn't a scratch or dent in the canoe.
I did my first glass job on a skiff,over worked the epoxy when i put the glass on.it looked good then i had to mess with it and got air bubbles in the epoxy.some of it turned milky.A word to the wise.anyway it's gonna be painted so no real harm.live and learn,next time ill know better. Put it on till it's wetted out and clear,dont leave puddles or excess on it,and leave it alone.I went back over it tryin to get it too smooth and worked air into it.
I am at this point in my build now and need to buy the cloth. What weight cloth did you use? Did you get it from Noah's? Bear Mountain seems to take great care to carefully roll their cloth, did you have any issue with wrinkles or anything out of the box? It looks good in the video, I just wanted to see if you needed to let it sit or anything. Nice videos btw, I love the destruction one, I send everyone there who says that mine will be too weak or flimsy. :)
inventingdreams thanks man! good luck w the fiberglassing! I got 6 oz cloth from Noahsmarine.com. I didn't have any wrinkles on the outside but I did have some issues on the inside of the hull. I think that was more how I laid it in than anything else. You can call Noahs and they're really helpful (if you do call tell them I sent you!) regardless of what you decide it's really a scary step and you'll be glad when it's over haha. I put some links to some other resources in the video description to you could check them out if you haven't already. Good luck!
the hull should be given an epoxy coat first. Then put on the cloth as it gets tacky. This will help grab the cloth and smooth it out. But mpre importantly, without the epoxy coat on the bare hull, the bare wood pulls the epoxy out of the cloth weave as it sets up. It is not as strong as a result.
Iv heard that too john and that can cause adhesion problems.this guy certainly knows what he's doing.maybe going wet on wet on wet allows the wood to absorb the epoxy due to the constant application.dont know.the glass never gets starved because of the constant layers of epoxy keep it saturated
Not sure if I missed this somewhere, but how many yards of fiberglass did you end up buying? I am currently building a Bob's Special myself and it is my first canoe. Learning a lot with the build and it is extremely fun so far.
Brian Carnahan that's awesome! Um... I'm not quite sure how many yards... I think I called "Noahs marine supply" and they told me exactly how much I needed. there might be an option on their site to buy enough to do the inside and outside of a 16' canoe...? Good luck w it!
For those that run across this question. I just got off the phone with Noah's Marine and they suggested 11 yards of fiberglass. I also ordered resin and hardener and purchased 2 canisters each of the 105B and 207B. FYI, the "B" designates the canister size.
I roll the fiberglass on without any epoxy, then I pour it onto the epoxy onto the fiberglass. The epoxy soaks through the fiberglass and soaks into the wood. I have seen somebody online that epoxied the wood before putting on the fiberglass but that is unnecessary because the epoxy soaks into the wood fine my way. Hope that helps!
Go Ducks! Great videos. I've decided to go for a build myself. I've found some free templates on NorthWest Canoe. Are you familiar with them? Any suggestions on a design for my first build? Thanks again for the Kick Ass Videos. It will really help a lot!
pkrouzaud thanks!! Yeah go ducks! Not familiar w northwest canoe - plans kind of depend on what you're using it for/ comfortable w. I chose mine cause I wanted a relatively stable canoe for two people that was short enough to build in my garage. Good luck w your build!
what do you think? does a second, third, and/or fourth coat HAVE to be applied while the previous is still tacky or could the previous be dry (we let it sit overnight) and then we put on a second coat?
Elijah Wasson hmmm I think you’re going to have to sand the surface now then clean it really good before another coat... the epoxy can’t adhere if the surface is too smooth. You might be able to get away with it and be ok but I wouldn’t chance it if I were you... sorry! I know that’s a lot of added work...
I hope you didn't fiberglass the inside too. I heard that is a sure way to make your boat rot. Edit. I take my words back because this boat is new and the wood is dry. Just inspect all scratches so that water cannot leak into wood. I also heard that it is advisable to dry the boat for a long time and saturate the wood with diluded epoxy before adding fiberglass. But hey, who am I to give instructions, I have never made wooden boats :)
Im about to build a river boat, using oak as a material... Some builders told me that using this method, i will get cracks in epoxy and in two years Wood will start to rott... Is that true, or? Everyone here is using tar instead of epoxy... I dont wont to use tar because the result is essteticaly unsatisfying... Help!
luis gonzalez I’m not sure - I don’t do a lot with stain so I don’t have enough exp... you might try to google it? I think it would be ok but it’d be a bummer to not work...
Matt Schorr I tried to wrap it but if I did it again I'd stop just short. It turned out fine for me but since I made this video I saw someone else stop short and it looked easier
i just bought a cedar strip canoe from a builder who said he did not finish it. I can still see the fiberglass cloth and the finish is cloudy in parts. Any ideas?
if it is cloudy, even in parts, it is NOT o.k., and it should be removed. Sanding and varnishing alone does not deliver a good result. Especially if the cloth structure is still visible, it must be filled with two or more thin coats of resin before doing fine sanding and varnishing. If the existing sheating is rather old, the epoxy coats needed to fill the cloth structure will not stick very well to it. If the sheating was made with Epoxy, it can be removed by using a heat gun. To do it make cuts lengthwise with a utility knife into the cloth (must not cut through). Then warm a cloth strip and peel it off. I recommend to use a heat gun with a temperature control. Temperature depends on how old the glass sheating is. One can start with about 100 degress celsius, and make it hotter until it works. The resand the whole boat to remove all resin remainings until you can see the wood structure again. Sand it smotth and re-sheat the whole boat with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Happy building, Biber from http:biber-boote.ch
At 1:04 when the cloth goes over the canoe, DON'T do that. Coat the bare cedar with mixed 2-part epoxy first to saturation so no more resin can soak in the wood, then lay the cloth down on the wet epoxy, prior cut to length and form, brush on a second resin coat and squeegee away any excess resin to dead flush to the cloth for full immersion and no air bubbles. If you throw the cloth over bare cedar and then epoxy over, the cloth is never embedded in epoxy and no proper bonding can result. It's the Joe corner cutting method. The cloth should be sandwiched between two epoxy coats bonded to the cedar. After that apply two more coats and sand out any roughness .
Epoxy and fiberglass cloth is like gluing two pieces of wood. The glue has to be applied to both contact surfaces before mated. Placing fiberglass cloth on bare cedar or other wood sidesteps and ignores one of the two critical bonding surfaces.
I don't know what the plywood application is. In all epoxy & fiberglass new build or restoration, whatever the wood, the epoxy is coated first on the wood to bed the fiberglass cloth or whatever sheet. Fiberglass, just like drywall taping, is sandwiched between two layers of the adhesive compound. In kit cedar canoe building, usually by one builder, maybe two, the easy way is to rollout and lay the cloth down over the bare wood and then slam the epoxy on. But that's the corner cutting technique. The difficulty is epoxy cures fast and rapidly becomes super unworkable. The bed coat will grab the cloth and almost not let go. And that's why you see kit builders choose the easy route or just don't know any better. The traditional cedar strip canoes, of many different dimensional designs, were built from real old-growth Western Red Cedar, ribbed, copper tacked, shop glued (white glue), varnished, or whatever gunk they had, launched and they floated or didn't. The modern kits are substantially inferior new-growth farm cedar that need internal and external fiberglass. Epoxy-fiberglass, in new build, is a bandaid/crutch for inferior wood species. For restoring traditional decades old cedar canoes is imperative because the original plank glue is basically no longer a structural bonding agent.
Hey Adam, I am doing my first canoe. I am about to buy the epoxy and want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. Is www.noahsmarine.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=AHS1G all I need? Does it come with both parts of the mixture? Is this enough for a 16' canoe? Hope to hear back from ya, really dig your tutorials.
Hey Tyler, that's exciting! I think you need more than that... I don't think that includes the resin. I would call Noah's Marine and tell them what you're doing and they'll set you up with the products and amounts you need. Tell them I sent you, they're super nice. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the fiberglassing!
Your project and work ethic is inspiring. In my 70 years I have seen few young men like you. Your canoe has a beauty of it's own!! Respeto, Tim Méndez
The nicest one I have seen made and in person, be proud of what you did !
Awesome. I like to put one coat on the bare wood to let it soak it up, and once that fully dries, I put the fiberglass on. But your method looks great 👍
Great video
Though I do have a couple of Tips...
On your next boat using fiberglass...start in the middle and work towards the ends. The squeegy motion should be straight from center to the edge (less chance of wrinkles).
When rolling on the resin with the roller..chase it perpendicular with a brush. This will take out the ridges the roller leaves.
Wow your canoe is so beautiful! Good job!
I'm planning to fiberglass the inside of my Mandalorian helmet. This helped me on my quest. Thanks
wow your video is clean cut and concise, thank you
Hey Adam, word of suggestion you should go through your videos and put them one through whatever how many videos they are in order so somebody needs to see how it’s done in order they can go from one to 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 all the way down to the last one
Very nice, thanks. I wished you would show us your sanding and the sanding steps after the last 4th coat of epoxy was dry and what you do to give it the final whatever after it's final sanding.
Looks pretty awesome
Very nice! I don't envy the sanding you have coming up next.
Tom's Dreamshop Worx haha yeah, by the time I'm done sanding the epoxy on the inside I'm pretty burnt out on the orbital
Nice! Is it possible to make some how fiberglass not transparent. I mean to see fiber texture? How to get that result? I need to use some colouring component?
I studied well and I go well.
Thank you.
South Korea (MASAN)
So cool! I am looking forward to doing this some day! I made a 4 seat fiberglass airplane so this is one step I would be comfortable with, but would still be fun!
Wood By Wright dang that's awesome - yeah a canoe would be no problem compared to an airplane!
a trick : you can watch movies at Flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Ramon Benicio Yup, I have been watching on Flixzone} for years myself =)
@Ramon Benicio yea, been using flixzone} for years myself :D
Very good video. Super informative!
Tip: heard there is epoxy resin, that has a pump system, that make measuring easier and quicker. West system, I think brand.
Mike Williams yeah! I ordered some but they were the wrong ratio and I didn’t want to wait to order more so I just went ahead and did it. Those pumps make it a lot easier! Thanks!
Not sure if you’re talking about resin infusion systems but I would recommend using that. Used one to make some custom Jeep parts (hood, fenders, etc) and made life so much easier. Wish I could remember the brand.
Great technic and video !
Jim Dodd thanks Jim!
Looking great!
David Brown thanks David!🤘🏽
Nice video
That is looking great! What a beautiful canoe!
Thanks!!!
Hi, I'm currently building a strip cedar canoe similar to yours. Love your videos, very informative and helping me lots. Im just wondering do your remember how many ltrs of resin/epoxy you used? Thanks in advance
So cool. Really well done too! Subbed!
Your production value was really good this video. I'm enjoying every video so far and I can't wait to start sourcing materials for this winter's project. I'm a machinist by trade so I'm curious how those skills will translate to building my first canoe.
That's awesome! Have you done any woodworking before? Metal working seems harder than woodworking to me - probably cause I don't have any experience with metal working. Canoes are much more doable than they look - they just take forever. Thanks for watching, hit me up if you have any questions throughout the process!
I haven't done any woodworking beyond maintenance or construction. From what I've seen machining isn't much more difficult than woodworking, it's all a matter of the process, there are a thousand different ways to do it etc. The mistakes can be a bit more labor intensive to fix and of course costlier. Thanks for the offer of help and if I need any I'll be sure to hit you up.
Biscuit Waite So true about processes
I didn't see any use of a heat gun to help eliminate air pockets. Thins it out to allow any air to escape.
I've walked away from (I thought) a great cloth/epoxy job with a strip built kayak only to come back with air pinholes up to volcanoes.
Always judicial heat gun now and it eliminates most all.
Nice boat BTW a strip built boat is a thing of beauty and most have no idea the laborious hours that go into building one.
I'm building a classic style 14' power boat right now...months into it and months to go.
Aren't you supposed to put down epody first before putting the glass layer down?
Hey Adam, Love your videos. I just fiber glassed a cedar strip boat I am building. I have a few areas where the epoxy did not saturate the cloth before it dried. The result is a small area where the cloth is visible. Can I wait until the coat dries and then repair it somehow?
Sorry Tim, but once it dries, you are kind of screwed. You’re only way to fix it is to sand that area all the way down through the fiberglass and then patch it with a soaked little piece of fiberglass. I personally like to saturate the bare wood of the canoe with one coat of epoxy before putting any fiberglass on, this helps prevent that. Good luck!
I noticed you don't wear a mask or gloves when applying the epoxy, wondering if I should?
Please wear nitril gloves.
Epoxy is not good for your health.
Malte Musfeldt I second that. Please, please wear gloves when applying or mixing epoxy. Your skin will eventually get sensitized to it and your skin will break out into a rash anytime you come into contact with uncured resin. Once that happens you may even break out when touching some woods and even foods like the oils in the skin of citrus fruits.
Indeed, use gloves! When I saw you guys pour I almost didn't believe it was resin! As you mentioned do your research beforehand and use gloves! Gorgeous craftsmanship tho! Great job!!
And safety glasses. And an organic vapor respirator.
Hi, I m building a double kayak. It will be 6.3 mt. Do I need to increase intensity of fiberglass to 8 oz.?
Hey Adam, sorry to bug ya again. I am about to the fiberglass epoxy stage of my first canoe project. In terms of buying the fiberglass cloth, does all fiberglass cloth turn transparent when saturated? I have a marine store in the town I live in and they have plenty of fiberglass cloth that looks the same as what you are using. I noticed on the Bear Mountain Boats website the fiberglass they have for sale says "This cloth has been treated for epoxy compatibility". Is that cloth special or are they just being thorough in their description. The guys at the marine store mostly work with commercial fishing boats and don't seem too knowledgeable when it comes to the clear artsy finish I am looking for. Super excited and nervous about this part. Look forward to hearing back from you. Thanks, Tyler
p.s. look forward to hearing that guitar
Hey thanks Tyler no problem! This is probably one of those things you could ask different people and get different answers that are all relatively accurate. I kinna wanna say you get what you pay for, and even if anything is good enough I probably wouldn’t chance it cause you already have quite a bit of time and money into the boat so far. I would call the guys at Noah’s marine supply - they’re super knowledgeable and friendly. You could always get some scrap of both and experiment on scrap too ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ good luck that’s exciting!
Hello Adam, I have a question. Have you ever stained wood before fiberglassing and epoxy'ing it? Do you think it would work?
This is an absolutely beautiful project! Do you know if there is a way to finish that leaves the surface matte or satin instead of shiny? Thanks!
just put matte varnish coats on epoxy in the very end
would a bit of heat from a blowtorch help with the smoothness of the epoxy? great build - you have a new sub
horatio71 awesome thanks! Yeah I've seen people do that before, I don't know if it helps the lumpiness but it does take out tiny bubbles that form on the surface. I sand the surface when I'm done so it wasn't too big of an issue for me. I know other builders that do that though. Thanks for the sub man!
Wow!!! That's all I got...wow!!!
Can I paint my canoe first before epoxy? I want to paint it white.
fiber glass epoxy...nice!! now thats a technique ive never heard of..now is the fiber glass protection from the water or from the bumps in the river?
Joe basementwoodworking yeah it was new to me too, it's mostly for waterproofing and it's super super strong. Really fun to do when you get it right... thanks for watching joe!
A Guy Doing Stuff ALWAYS BROTHER!!& Ahh yea that makes sense..and im guessing the brand and type of epoxy matters also? Like u could t just go to home depot and buy the epoxy theu sell for this..right? Not that you would because it would take like 40 boxes but I meant that specific type of epoxy
Joe basementwoodworking The fibreglass is for strength and it replaces the ribs found in conventionally built wood canoes. It also provides quite a bit of impact resistance. I once hit a submerged rock in a fast flowing river. I got thrown across the thwart, the other person got thrown out of the canoe because of the sudden stop. There wasn't a scratch or dent in the canoe.
Great series - thanks
I did my first glass job on a skiff,over worked the epoxy when i put the glass on.it looked good then i had to mess with it and got air bubbles in the epoxy.some of it turned milky.A word to the wise.anyway it's gonna be painted so no real harm.live and learn,next time ill know better.
Put it on till it's wetted out and clear,dont leave puddles or excess on it,and leave it alone.I went back over it tryin to get it too smooth and worked air into it.
I am at this point in my build now and need to buy the cloth. What weight cloth did you use? Did you get it from Noah's? Bear Mountain seems to take great care to carefully roll their cloth, did you have any issue with wrinkles or anything out of the box? It looks good in the video, I just wanted to see if you needed to let it sit or anything.
Nice videos btw, I love the destruction one, I send everyone there who says that mine will be too weak or flimsy. :)
inventingdreams thanks man! good luck w the fiberglassing! I got 6 oz cloth from Noahsmarine.com. I didn't have any wrinkles on the outside but I did have some issues on the inside of the hull. I think that was more how I laid it in than anything else. You can call Noahs and they're really helpful (if you do call tell them I sent you!) regardless of what you decide it's really a scary step and you'll be glad when it's over haha. I put some links to some other resources in the video description to you could check them out if you haven't already. Good luck!
the hull should be given an epoxy coat first. Then put on the cloth as it gets tacky. This will help grab the cloth and smooth it out. But mpre importantly, without the epoxy coat on the bare hull, the bare wood pulls the epoxy out of the cloth weave as it sets up. It is not as strong as a result.
Iv heard that too john and that can cause adhesion problems.this guy certainly knows what he's doing.maybe going wet on wet on wet allows the wood to absorb the epoxy due to the constant application.dont know.the glass never gets starved because of the constant layers of epoxy keep it saturated
There is a video, part 1, where he does cover the hull with resin before he covers it with fiberglass.
The link for your strength demonstration video is broken. Any chance you have another link?
Not sure if I missed this somewhere, but how many yards of fiberglass did you end up buying? I am currently building a Bob's Special myself and it is my first canoe. Learning a lot with the build and it is extremely fun so far.
Brian Carnahan that's awesome! Um... I'm not quite sure how many yards... I think I called "Noahs marine supply" and they told me exactly how much I needed. there might be an option on their site to buy enough to do the inside and outside of a 16' canoe...? Good luck w it!
For those that run across this question. I just got off the phone with Noah's Marine and they suggested 11 yards of fiberglass. I also ordered resin and hardener and purchased 2 canisters each of the 105B and 207B. FYI, the "B" designates the canister size.
How many kg epoxy did you used for ferst coat
Hi from France 🇫🇷 How to fix fiberglass, I’v a line, 66cm long, which appears near axe ?
But no leak yet,
Great video. New subscriber, found you from "July With Fitz" channel pass.
Lyle Kobberstad awesome thanks Lyle! Yeah July w Fritz is awesome
@A Guy Doing Stuff; did you put the first coat on bare wood, or have you previously rolled a coat of resin into the wood?
I roll the fiberglass on without any epoxy, then I pour it onto the epoxy onto the fiberglass. The epoxy soaks through the fiberglass and soaks into the wood. I have seen somebody online that epoxied the wood before putting on the fiberglass but that is unnecessary because the epoxy soaks into the wood fine my way. Hope that helps!
Go Ducks! Great videos. I've decided to go for a build myself. I've found some free templates on NorthWest Canoe. Are you familiar with them? Any suggestions on a design for my first build? Thanks again for the Kick Ass Videos. It will really help a lot!
pkrouzaud thanks!! Yeah go ducks! Not familiar w northwest canoe - plans kind of depend on what you're using it for/ comfortable w. I chose mine cause I wanted a relatively stable canoe for two people that was short enough to build in my garage. Good luck w your build!
How much did the fiberglass and epoxy seal cost you?
Hi Adam, would you recommend going for 10oz fiberglass or would 6oz do for a expedition canoe?
rene schuster I think 6 oz is plenty ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
what do you think? does a second, third, and/or fourth coat HAVE to be applied while the previous is still tacky or could the previous be dry (we let it sit overnight) and then we put on a second coat?
Elijah Wasson hmmm I think you’re going to have to sand the surface now then clean it really good before another coat... the epoxy can’t adhere if the surface is too smooth. You might be able to get away with it and be ok but I wouldn’t chance it if I were you... sorry! I know that’s a lot of added work...
did you use 6 OZ or 9 OZ fiberglass?
I hope you didn't fiberglass the inside too. I heard that is a sure way to make your boat rot.
Edit. I take my words back because this boat is new and the wood is dry. Just inspect all scratches so that water cannot leak into wood. I also heard that it is advisable to dry the boat for a long time and saturate the wood with diluded epoxy before adding fiberglass.
But hey, who am I to give instructions, I have never made wooden boats :)
How many layers of fiberglass do you use?
Im about to build a river boat, using oak as a material... Some builders told me that using this method, i will get cracks in epoxy and in two years Wood will start to rott... Is that true, or?
Everyone here is using tar instead of epoxy... I dont wont to use tar because the result is essteticaly unsatisfying... Help!
Respect !
Its good long time floating is a salt sea if no paint?
can I stain the wood before this epoxy seal ? if so any special stain? thanks it was very helpfull
luis gonzalez I’m not sure - I don’t do a lot with stain so I don’t have enough exp... you might try to google it? I think it would be ok but it’d be a bummer to not work...
Do NOT stain the wood, it can interfere with the epoxy bond. You can use wood dye if you want.
Do you wrap the glass around the stems or stop just short?
Matt Schorr I tried to wrap it but if I did it again I'd stop just short. It turned out fine for me but since I made this video I saw someone else stop short and it looked easier
i just bought a cedar strip canoe from a builder who said he did not finish it. I can still see the fiberglass cloth and the finish is cloudy in parts. Any ideas?
AY Solar maybe rough it up with 400 grit and put a couple coats of epifanes varnish on it?
if it is cloudy, even in parts, it is NOT o.k., and it should be removed. Sanding and varnishing alone does not deliver a good result. Especially if the cloth structure is still visible, it must be filled with two or more thin coats of resin before doing fine sanding and varnishing. If the existing sheating is rather old, the epoxy coats needed to fill the cloth structure will not stick very well to it.
If the sheating was made with Epoxy, it can be removed by using a heat gun. To do it make cuts lengthwise with a utility knife into the cloth (must not cut through). Then warm a cloth strip and peel it off. I recommend to use a heat gun with a temperature control. Temperature depends on how old the glass sheating is. One can start with about 100 degress celsius, and make it hotter until it works. The resand the whole boat to remove all resin remainings until you can see the wood structure again. Sand it smotth and re-sheat the whole boat with fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
Happy building, Biber from http:biber-boote.ch
How much does the canoe weigh when it is complete?
S Regan I think it's gonna be around 60 lbs - people always say it's surprisingly light when they pick it up
Definitely look at Nick Schade’s fiberglassing technique. He has a better approach.
what type of sandwiches do u eat in between coats? haha! im gonna guess and say turkey club??;)
Joe basementwoodworking 👍🏽🍔with sawdust sprinkled inside
A Guy Doing Stuff nice! Every woodworker gets those sprinkles..haha!
At 1:04 when the cloth goes over the canoe, DON'T do that.
Coat the bare cedar with mixed 2-part epoxy first to saturation so no more resin can soak in the wood, then lay the cloth down on the wet epoxy, prior cut to length and form, brush on a second resin coat and squeegee away any excess resin to dead flush to the cloth for full immersion and no air bubbles.
If you throw the cloth over bare cedar and then epoxy over, the cloth is never embedded in epoxy and no proper bonding can result. It's the Joe corner cutting method.
The cloth should be sandwiched between two epoxy coats bonded to the cedar. After that apply two more coats and sand out any roughness .
Epoxy and fiberglass cloth is like gluing two pieces of wood. The glue has to be applied to both contact surfaces before mated. Placing fiberglass cloth on bare cedar or other wood sidesteps and ignores one of the two critical bonding surfaces.
What if the wood is Okoume marine plywood instead of cedar--would you still recommend coating the bare wood with epoxy first? Thanks.
I don't know what the plywood application is. In all epoxy & fiberglass new build or restoration, whatever the wood, the epoxy is coated first on the wood to bed the fiberglass cloth or whatever sheet. Fiberglass, just like drywall taping, is sandwiched between two layers of the adhesive compound.
In kit cedar canoe building, usually by one builder, maybe two, the easy way is to rollout and lay the cloth down over the bare wood and then slam the epoxy on. But that's the corner cutting technique.
The difficulty is epoxy cures fast and rapidly becomes super unworkable. The bed coat will grab the cloth and almost not let go. And that's why you see kit builders choose the easy route or just don't know any better.
The traditional cedar strip canoes, of many different dimensional designs, were built from real old-growth Western Red Cedar, ribbed, copper tacked, shop glued (white glue), varnished, or whatever gunk they had, launched and they floated or didn't.
The modern kits are substantially inferior new-growth farm cedar that need internal and external fiberglass.
Epoxy-fiberglass, in new build, is a bandaid/crutch for inferior wood species. For restoring traditional decades old cedar canoes is imperative because the original plank glue is basically no longer a structural bonding agent.
No gloves??
Which mats do you use to glue gr / m2?
Michał Powroźnik sorry I don't understand the question...
You have a super video for this, but you need to talk a little slower for the newbee's or wear a mic
squeegee for all coats stops running or drips
Looking fine!, but please make the videos longer, I don't care if they are too far apart. And also wear gloves!!!!, safety goes first.
Vicente Trincado thanks Vincente! Yeah the next one is looking like it's gonna be more like 5 minutes. Appreciate the feedback✌🏽️
no Gloves? thats a no go when working with Epoxy
Hey Adam, I am doing my first canoe. I am about to buy the epoxy and want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. Is www.noahsmarine.com/Itemdesc.asp?ic=AHS1G all I need? Does it come with both parts of the mixture? Is this enough for a 16' canoe? Hope to hear back from ya, really dig your tutorials.
Hey Tyler, that's exciting! I think you need more than that... I don't think that includes the resin. I would call Noah's Marine and tell them what you're doing and they'll set you up with the products and amounts you need. Tell them I sent you, they're super nice. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the fiberglassing!
Thanks again Adam! If ya ever find yourself in Astoria hit me up! Ill buy ya a beer!
Geez man put some gloves on. You can get acute epoxy allergies that last a lifetime from this.
Every video?! 😐 I don't have 6yrs to spend on watching all that...