Hey, thanks for tuning into the channel! You're right, some canoe builders have used Red Oak for trim but White Oak is better for Marine applications; it's end grain doesn't absorb moisture as quickly but it's more expensive too. Still like you say, if you seal the ends and finish it well it should last for many years. Hope your project turned out great!
Hi Paul... This was just a tips video. You can see how the shell was repaired and epoxied on the strong back before flipping it over on our full build video here: studio.ua-cam.com/users/videogrryXgwh7Ko/edit You're right... off the strong back as a shell and it is a little floppy, but settles back to shape resting flat on its bottom. The gunwales, seats and yoke firm up the shape.
I have a 12 foot crack in my 1989 16 foot cedar strip. Should I repair by belt sanding and then epoxy a new sheet of fiberglass cloth over the bottom hull?
Hi Missy, I think the answer really depends on the nature of the crack... In general your approach will work well. I might use an orbital or palm sander to take the fiberglass down to the cedar. I think the belt sander is a better grinder but it takes off too much material, too fast. I would sand about 4-6 inches on both sides of the crack to give you enough area to patch with fiberglass and then fairing the edges to get you back to a smooth surface. Before glassing, be sure to fill the crack with something, possibly a thickened epoxy glue made with wood flour and some straps to wrap the hull and bring the crack back together. Might take 3-5 coats of finish epoxy layers to help smooth out the repair. One other consideration... if the crack is directly in the middle where your feet would be, you might want to add a second layer of glass in the inside bottom of the canoe to stiffen up the footwell. Helps to provide more support when stepping in and out. Check out our final repair video to see how we added that layer inside our canoe. I wish you the best of luck! The results will be worth it! -TFW
For rails I found it easier to cut a 12 inch scarf joint using my 12 inch chop saw with a simple jig on my outside deck. My table saw is in my small shop so not enough space for cutting long rails.
Hi David, thanks for watching! I'm normally a West System guy, but tried a newer product called MarineGuard 8000 and the results were great actually. It is a clear product, a little thicker than West, but it wetted out the fiberglass well with fewer drips and wasted epoxy. I think I'm now a fan. For our 16 foot, 36 inch beam repaired canoe + 3 layers of fiberglass total (1 exterior, 2 interior) we used a little more than 3 gallons of total material (mixed). See our finished canoe project video to check out how it wetted out. Best, -TFW
It's a "fair" question. (See what I did there?) The cheap sander we used was not that aggressive, not like a belt sander that would reduce the hull to paper in one pass. But, we had a ton of uneven material to remove between the slats so working from 40 to 80 to 120 grit on the curved pad worked pretty well and the finish inside the hull looked pretty amazing. In the end... It's a personal choice. Higher grit means more time but maybe more sweat equity too.
Well my friend, it's all personal preference! I think using something that's rot resistant is the key. Maple works too, so does Mahogany. Anything but red oak.
Good video. The scarfing jig was nice. At first, I was thinking "Why not just use a common taper jig?"; however, with your jig, it is more secure and repeatable. I like your finish sander hack. It got me thinking about a possible concave fairing sander setup. All in all- great video. Content like this is why UA-cam is better than television, imo. Btw- was it editing or is your tablesaw really that quiet? If so, how did you muffle it?
Hey JCW, thanks for tuning into the channel! The jig was in fact the best tool in the build, and you can set the scarf taper at any depth you like. Hope you try it. The rounded pad was an accidental idea-turned-good and the 40 grit belt sand paper really helped take down the cedar edges fast. Worked great. Saw volume? Yeah, had to edit that down in the video tool... it is a noisy tool!
There is an easier way to get a curved sanding pad. Glue 40 0r 60 grit sanding paper to the hull and run your sander with the pad over that. The pad will get the perfect curve that way.
The red oak shouldn’t be a problem. If it’s been properly coated and stored there’s no reason it should rot.
Hey, thanks for tuning into the channel! You're right, some canoe builders have used Red Oak for trim but White Oak is better for Marine applications; it's end grain doesn't absorb moisture as quickly but it's more expensive too. Still like you say, if you seal the ends and finish it well it should last for many years. Hope your project turned out great!
Nice trick to make that joint. Thank you!
merci cela, va m'aider beaucoup
Some great tips!
How did you get that incredibly floppy, wiggly canoe to sit to a fair, symmetrical shape while you applied the epoxy and glass?
Hi Paul... This was just a tips video. You can see how the shell was repaired and epoxied on the strong back before flipping it over on our full build video here: studio.ua-cam.com/users/videogrryXgwh7Ko/edit
You're right... off the strong back as a shell and it is a little floppy, but settles back to shape resting flat on its bottom. The gunwales, seats and yoke firm up the shape.
I have a 12 foot crack in my 1989 16 foot cedar strip. Should I repair by belt sanding and then epoxy a new sheet of fiberglass cloth over the bottom hull?
Hi Missy, I think the answer really depends on the nature of the crack... In general your approach will work well. I might use an orbital or palm sander to take the fiberglass down to the cedar. I think the belt sander is a better grinder but it takes off too much material, too fast. I would sand about 4-6 inches on both sides of the crack to give you enough area to patch with fiberglass and then fairing the edges to get you back to a smooth surface. Before glassing, be sure to fill the crack with something, possibly a thickened epoxy glue made with wood flour and some straps to wrap the hull and bring the crack back together. Might take 3-5 coats of finish epoxy layers to help smooth out the repair. One other consideration... if the crack is directly in the middle where your feet would be, you might want to add a second layer of glass in the inside bottom of the canoe to stiffen up the footwell. Helps to provide more support when stepping in and out. Check out our final repair video to see how we added that layer inside our canoe. I wish you the best of luck! The results will be worth it! -TFW
@@TheFamilyWoodworker THANK YOU!
For rails I found it easier to cut a 12 inch scarf joint using my 12 inch chop saw with a simple jig on my outside deck. My table saw is in my small shop so not enough space for cutting long rails.
That's a great idea!
Which epoxy did you use for the fill and fiber glass?
Hi David, thanks for watching! I'm normally a West System guy, but tried a newer product called MarineGuard 8000 and the results were great actually. It is a clear product, a little thicker than West, but it wetted out the fiberglass well with fewer drips and wasted epoxy. I think I'm now a fan. For our 16 foot, 36 inch beam repaired canoe + 3 layers of fiberglass total (1 exterior, 2 interior) we used a little more than 3 gallons of total material (mixed). See our finished canoe project video to check out how it wetted out. Best, -TFW
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Ah, thank you Sir! unfortunately Marine Guard is a bit difficult to find in Alberta and ordering is expensive.
curious, why sand with 40 grit against the grain when sanding/fairing the inside hull?
It's a "fair" question. (See what I did there?) The cheap sander we used was not that aggressive, not like a belt sander that would reduce the hull to paper in one pass. But, we had a ton of uneven material to remove between the slats so working from 40 to 80 to 120 grit on the curved pad worked pretty well and the finish inside the hull looked pretty amazing. In the end... It's a personal choice. Higher grit means more time but maybe more sweat equity too.
Sweet! ......why didn't you use maple?
Well my friend, it's all personal preference! I think using something that's rot resistant is the key. Maple works too, so does Mahogany. Anything but red oak.
Good video. The scarfing jig was nice. At first, I was thinking "Why not just use a common taper jig?"; however, with your jig, it is more secure and repeatable. I like your finish sander hack. It got me thinking about a possible concave fairing sander setup. All in all- great video. Content like this is why UA-cam is better than television, imo. Btw- was it editing or is your tablesaw really that quiet? If so, how did you muffle it?
Hey JCW, thanks for tuning into the channel! The jig was in fact the best tool in the build, and you can set the scarf taper at any depth you like. Hope you try it. The rounded pad was an accidental idea-turned-good and the 40 grit belt sand paper really helped take down the cedar edges fast. Worked great. Saw volume? Yeah, had to edit that down in the video tool... it is a noisy tool!
@@TheFamilyWoodworker that scarf jig would work as a scaled up jointing ripping jig for warped or waney edged stock.
I think that jig is much safer than a taper jig.
There is an easier way to get a curved sanding pad. Glue 40 0r 60 grit sanding paper to the hull and run your sander with the pad over that. The pad will get the perfect curve that way.
Love that idea.... Thanks for watching our little channel!