Super. Fairbanks Morse made six models in the Consolidation Line, and called them C-Liners. The CPA16-4, CPA16-5, CPA20-5, CPA24-5, CFA16-4, and CFA20-4 were all streamlined cab and booster units, with some having an extra unpowered "idler" axle to carry the weight. (B-B or A-1-A.) C = Consolidation Line, P = Passenger, F = Freight, A = Cab, B = Booster, (CPB16-4, ...) # = Horsepower × 100, 4 or 5 = Axles. The lower power models had three cooling fans, while the rest had four, so this model might be a FM CFA20-4, assuming it isn't a designers fantasy. P.S. It would be easy to mount link and pin couplers to that truck coupler stub. 🙂 Good job putting her back together. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: I can tell that you are not a Pennsylvania Railroad fan. 🙂
I had this exact locomotive when I was a teenager. The metal handrails on the nose were made of brass wire, and they were not painted any color. The real locomotives were painted Brunswick Green (a dark color of green that appeared black), not Tuscan Red (aka brownish color), and the handrails were painted in the same Brunswick Green as the body. Also, to note, the Tuscan Red paint on Pennsylvania locomotives were normally used on passenger locomotives while the Brunswick Green was used on freight locomotives. So, if you find another Pennsylvania Tuscan Red engine, the handrails would be painted in the same color as the body just like the Brunswick Green versions.
I'd like to see you take one of these old units that you can experiment on put 2 leds in the front. Wired like parallel but with one led opposite polarity, still only requires one resistor but you will have light no matter which way you are heading. Take your broken truck, scan it and draw in the repair or scan another truck and resin print a repair piece. Test your limits. Good luck.
When it comes to 3-D printed parts, i always give em a light scrubbing with a liquid dish detergent before painting. There is always some kind of weird film that builds up on the surface of the parts during production, no matter the resins/plastics used which makes paints either bubble up or just not stick to the surface properly .
The area where the coupler attaches is broken in many places, and forms the lower clip to keep the wheels on. I had to glue it all together just to get it rolling again. I will be on the hunt for a parts loco.
It was my first train and engine when I was a kid. Traded it to my cousin for a transformer. Missed so much, as an adult, I hit ebay and found an original one and a B unit. I'd like to find a dummy A unit and some passenger cars. Scott, are you going to do a video about the couplers?
Those grab irons look to be about the size of a staple. But, naturally, they will be 2 mm too long or too short. I have to admit, it does draw looks when I'm standing in Dollarama or wherever and I'm staring quizzically at things as you ponder their modeling uses. Gives security people fits. As it is, I've got to start shopping in toy stores for "perfect" construction vehicles, as diecast prices have skyrocketed along with shipping charges. Money is not a roadblock; it's the principle of knowing good value. Sometimes the savings can go into buying more items from the seller who "gets it".
Super. Fairbanks Morse made six models in the Consolidation Line, and called them C-Liners. The CPA16-4, CPA16-5, CPA20-5, CPA24-5, CFA16-4, and CFA20-4 were all streamlined cab and booster units, with some having an extra unpowered "idler" axle to carry the weight. (B-B or A-1-A.) C = Consolidation Line, P = Passenger, F = Freight, A = Cab, B = Booster, (CPB16-4, ...) # = Horsepower × 100, 4 or 5 = Axles. The lower power models had three cooling fans, while the rest had four, so this model might be a FM CFA20-4, assuming it isn't a designers fantasy. P.S. It would be easy to mount link and pin couplers to that truck coupler stub. 🙂 Good job putting her back together. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N. Edit: I can tell that you are not a Pennsylvania Railroad fan. 🙂
I had this exact locomotive when I was a teenager. The metal handrails on the nose were made of brass wire, and they were not painted any color. The real locomotives were painted Brunswick Green (a dark color of green that appeared black), not Tuscan Red (aka brownish color), and the handrails were painted in the same Brunswick Green as the body. Also, to note, the Tuscan Red paint on Pennsylvania locomotives were normally used on passenger locomotives while the Brunswick Green was used on freight locomotives. So, if you find another Pennsylvania Tuscan Red engine, the handrails would be painted in the same color as the body just like the Brunswick Green versions.
Old AHM are underrated little tanks👍🚂🇨🇦
I'd like to see you take one of these old units that you can experiment on put 2 leds in the front. Wired like parallel but with one led opposite polarity, still only requires one resistor but you will have light no matter which way you are heading. Take your broken truck, scan it and draw in the repair or scan another truck and resin print a repair piece. Test your limits. Good luck.
When it comes to 3-D printed parts, i always give em a light scrubbing with a liquid dish detergent before painting. There is always some kind of weird film that builds up on the surface of the parts during production, no matter the resins/plastics used which makes paints either bubble up or just not stick to the surface properly .
Good to know, thanks.
You're a dab hand at those leds Dave, the loco does look good with the extra details and runs really well. Nice one.
LOL - it's not brown; it's Tuscan Red!! But you've done a fantastic job with the loco!! Congrats!!!
Good job on the upgrade
Looks much better. I’m sure you could either find a replacement truck or retrofit a coupler to the existing truck. After all it had one before.
The area where the coupler attaches is broken in many places, and forms the lower clip to keep the wheels on. I had to glue it all together just to get it rolling again.
I will be on the hunt for a parts loco.
I so wish it could have a coupler attached.... Lovely work though
coupler .. lol i have loads of them .....................err.................moments wow !
Heres a thought....in future since you basically were 1 led short for voltage drop...do some cab details and light the cab
I will see if there's a cab interior I can 3D print. Thanks.
you forgot to replace the rear coupler
It was my first train and engine when I was a kid. Traded it to my cousin for a transformer. Missed so much, as an adult, I hit ebay and found an original one and a B unit. I'd like to find a dummy A unit and some passenger cars.
Scott, are you going to do a video about the couplers?
"brown locos matter" my brother in christ they are tuscan red
Those grab irons look to be about the size of a staple. But, naturally, they will be 2 mm too long or too short. I have to admit, it does draw looks when I'm standing in Dollarama or wherever and I'm staring quizzically at things as you ponder their modeling uses. Gives security people fits. As it is, I've got to start shopping in toy stores for "perfect" construction vehicles, as diecast prices have skyrocketed along with shipping charges. Money is not a roadblock; it's the principle of knowing good value. Sometimes the savings can go into buying more items from the seller who "gets it".
If you're a Dollarama connoisseur, then you probably know about their extensive range of track ballast materials? lol.
hello sir.. Do you take repair requests??👨🔧 please let me know
Not at this time, sorry.
@@ScottRails No worries. Thank you very much for your response..