Bakelite models are much better than the European post-WW2 'austerity-plastics' often acetate based and are destroyed by sunlight. I think Rivarossi made the correct decision going with Bakalite. I have a few Italian locos with this motor in them. It's a beautiful beast! Loved this video. So interesting. Thanks again.
Oh man, I love this .... Oh man...this is my first ever what I thought was the finest piece of ho I would ever own ...I saved and spent all I could save and went to a mall several towns over, got lost but made it home and felt so accomplished... Thank you Mr. Darth veda for this ..I just love it
Great deal you got there! Once in a while someone doesn't know the value of what they're selling, so it's always good to be on the lookout for those deals.
@@DarthSantaFe after I bought them the vendor told my they sell for a pretty penny but I know what I was getting and getting into whale I was at the train show I also got a Texas chugged for 10 dollars too and a mehano 4-8-2 for 20 and a cox f3 for 5 bucks
@@danielgibson1656 Wow, so he was just letting them go for cheap then! I have a Bachmann 2-10-4 I bought for $50 at a train show and have been working on getting into running shape, and even that was about half of the going price on eBay. I also once got an Athearn U30C for $2 that just needed a good cleaning.
I always have a set budget of 40-60 bucks and I can usually get some really good deals one thing that helps is that I'm quite the bargainer and bargain finder@@DarthSantaFe
That is a super cool train. I have a decent collection of vintage Ravarossi's and C-Liners but I don't have one like that. I almost guarantee that motor will also run on AC with no problem.
I have 3 of the later AHM C-Liners, because brushes were such a pain to locate as they also came off the copper arms, I put them safely in a container for AHM parts and got aftermarket can motors that luckily the shafts were the same size so the wurm gear pressed right on. Much quieter and less power usage plus I can swap in the old motors (Now that I found replacement brushes) if I were to ever want to sell them. Great video!
One brand name of that zinc alloy was Zamak, I have seen and own a prewar Lionel that all four wheels were just destroyed. So bad that they couldn’t turn, amazing
i like that you're going to leave it unpainted to preserve it as it would have been in the box in the 50s. i have a feeling that if i were to try the same. i would fail after a while.
This is a great restoration of an early locomotive. While I like the restoration, there is one thing that I recommend for old zinc metal parts. This would be to paint or clear coat (in this case) the zinc parts when possible. This will reduce future oxidation of the zinc metal which may lead to more cracking of the castings. Also, I was going to mention about heating the warped side frame, but you already made a reply on a reason not to do it.
La pintura no necesariamente detiene ese óxido a que se refiere, sino es una impureza en el zinc a la hora de fundirlo y colarlo en el molde, ese proceso viene desde dentro, es progresivo y nada lo detiene. En alemán le llaman; zinkpest.
I might do that at least for the sideframes to help them keep their cleaner appearance. I do the same for the polished brass, copper and nickel parts on my prewar trains to keep their shine.
@@22763344 I think he was referring to the surface oxidation of the metal exposed to the air. It definitely won't stop the zinc pest, but it will at least help to preserve the color of the cleaned metal. (Traducido por Google) Creo que se refería a la oxidación superficial del metal expuesto al aire. Definitivamente no detendrá la plaga de zinc, pero al menos ayudará a preservar el color del metal limpio.
Hi, enjoyed the video. I have 6 AHM Tempo models made at various times after the model you restored. I have one that needs the double horn and you created one using resin. Did you create a file for it or did you find the file online?
I like the paint scheme you chose for that, original Bakelite! Sort of a nice chocolate color. Have you ever tried using a heat gun to straighten out warped zinc? Maybe on something less valuable? I tried it on some Gilbert HO prewar parts and worked good, but then I realized those parts might have been lead castings, not zinc.
I did accidentally warp a zinc piece once while using a blow torch to melt lead into it! I thought of heating the sideframe to straighten it, but with the amount of visible fracturing, I decided not to risk it.
I took a close look at the screw to see if something else was needed, but it really was just slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. My guess is the metals oxidized over the years and got stuck together, or the screw may have even been forced in instead of threading it properly.
Fun Fact, When Lionel got into 'HO' scale (1957-'66) they imported Rivarossi trains under the Lionel banner. Ironically when they droped Rivarossi A company called AHM(IHC) would pick them up.And, would be imported under the AHM banner.
@@DarthSantaFe They are tricky to bring up right .If you search for it .Will bring up a PDF type of page that has all listing to enlarge .That is not it.The site page you need has 2 flags on it American and Italian TAN BACKGROUND and all the parts info and prices so you can order.They have parts for that motor ,top plate brushes and springs ect.... Click on the American flag and the site will go to English .Has part categories on the left of the page unless your fluent with Italian .
I edited this to get you a better description of the site. I ordered from them to get screws and side frames and all fit and look good along with containers they put the parts in is high end .
@@adamserafini6945 Thanks for the info! I did manage to find the website and see the part you're talking about. I'll probably leave it off, but it's good to know they're available if I ever want to add it on.
@@DarthSantaFe Those brass gears have an issue with a certain type of synthetic lube that has a chemical that eats the brass. There is a type 4 and 5 .One of them eats the brass. I agree with your assessment of the model somewhat compared to the proto ,but a huge part of model railroad history or say engineering quality of it's day.Great to have a gem like this that still operates. Besides they had metal grab irons all around the thing that came with them that were pre bent with that Rivarossi quality precision to them .Should finish yours.Find that B-unit of that era is how rare?
I have a Lionel branded one from the 1950's that needs new windings on the armature. I've not done windings before, so unfortunately she's going to have to stay a shelf queen for a while 🫠
3-pole motors are at least easier to rewind, but the ball bearings can also be hard to deal with in these. It would be great to have it running again someday, I’m sure!
It might, but I’d be concerned about how long the solder would last since it’s a soft alloy. It works well for hard connections, but I haven’t had much success using it in more flexible places.
Yes, but these older magnets sometimes lose their strength when removed from the field, so I wanted to be sure that didn’t happen. I also didn’t want to deal with the tiny ball bearings falling out. :)
TBH he’s something of a lightweight, he can rig an old Bachmann to run but I’ve never seen him build an old metal kit (for instance). His stuff is useful if you’re trying to resurrect old cheap locos though.
@@kriscarver-seaboyer9204 He doesn't have as much experience as I do (I've been at it probably 15 years longer), but he has come a long way! I think he did build a Roundhouse kit a while back and has done good work fixing some old models that were in really bad shape. We all have to start somewhere, and learn with time.
Bakelite models are much better than the European post-WW2 'austerity-plastics' often acetate based and are destroyed by sunlight. I think Rivarossi made the correct decision going with Bakalite. I have a few Italian locos with this motor in them. It's a beautiful beast! Loved this video. So interesting. Thanks again.
I believe your videos are spot on and most informative, It's a pleasure to have watched this video. Thank You!
Oh man, I love this ....
Oh man...this is my first ever what I thought was the finest piece of ho I would ever own ...I saved and spent all I could save and went to a mall several towns over, got lost but made it home and felt so accomplished...
Thank you Mr. Darth veda for this ..I just love it
Nice score. Such a great piece of Rivarossi history. Great job on restoring it also.
I just bought 2 of these rivarossi c liners with the bake light shells for 10 dollars a pop and they both run great after I service them
Great deal you got there! Once in a while someone doesn't know the value of what they're selling, so it's always good to be on the lookout for those deals.
@@DarthSantaFe after I bought them the vendor told my they sell for a pretty penny but I know what I was getting and getting into whale I was at the train show I also got a Texas chugged for 10 dollars too and a mehano 4-8-2 for 20 and a cox f3 for 5 bucks
@@danielgibson1656 Wow, so he was just letting them go for cheap then! I have a Bachmann 2-10-4 I bought for $50 at a train show and have been working on getting into running shape, and even that was about half of the going price on eBay. I also once got an Athearn U30C for $2 that just needed a good cleaning.
I always have a set budget of 40-60 bucks and I can usually get some really good deals one thing that helps is that I'm quite the bargainer and bargain finder@@DarthSantaFe
Nice piece of history!
The C-liner of all time
That is a super cool train. I have a decent collection of vintage Ravarossi's and C-Liners but I don't have one like that. I almost guarantee that motor will also run on AC with no problem.
The design is close to the German AC motors! It just needs an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet.
I have 3 of the later AHM C-Liners, because brushes were such a pain to locate as they also came off the copper arms, I put them safely in a container for AHM parts and got aftermarket can motors that luckily the shafts were the same size so the wurm gear pressed right on. Much quieter and less power usage plus I can swap in the old motors (Now that I found replacement brushes) if I were to ever want to sell them. Great video!
Good that you were able to get those! People selling those brushes now charge as much as getting a whole replacement model.
One brand name of that zinc alloy was Zamak, I have seen and own a prewar Lionel that all four wheels were just destroyed. So bad that they couldn’t turn, amazing
i like that you're going to leave it unpainted to preserve it as it would have been in the box in the 50s.
i have a feeling that if i were to try the same. i would fail after a while.
It was sold as a kit ready to build with skill since it would cost double if they did it at the factory. Worth more built right.
Bakelite doesn't take to well to painting.I painted my Bakelite Lionel observation car and the paint flaked off.
This is a great restoration of an early locomotive. While I like the restoration, there is one thing that I recommend for old zinc metal parts. This would be to paint or clear coat (in this case) the zinc parts when possible. This will reduce future oxidation of the zinc metal which may lead to more cracking of the castings. Also, I was going to mention about heating the warped side frame, but you already made a reply on a reason not to do it.
La pintura no necesariamente detiene ese óxido a que se refiere, sino es una impureza en el zinc a la hora de fundirlo y colarlo en el molde, ese proceso viene desde dentro, es progresivo y nada lo detiene. En alemán le llaman; zinkpest.
I might do that at least for the sideframes to help them keep their cleaner appearance. I do the same for the polished brass, copper and nickel parts on my prewar trains to keep their shine.
@@22763344 I think he was referring to the surface oxidation of the metal exposed to the air. It definitely won't stop the zinc pest, but it will at least help to preserve the color of the cleaned metal.
(Traducido por Google)
Creo que se refería a la oxidación superficial del metal expuesto al aire. Definitivamente no detendrá la plaga de zinc, pero al menos ayudará a preservar el color del metal limpio.
Hi, enjoyed the video. I have 6 AHM Tempo models made at various times after the model you restored. I have one that needs the double horn and you created one using resin. Did you create a file for it or did you find the file online?
I created the file for it. If you want to print one out, just e-mail me at darthsantafe@gmail.com and I can send you the file.
Thank you for that. Somewhere Bernie Paul is smiling.
They have always been one of my favites to run, i have sseveral i run in my collection i run. keep them running.
If you have a Dummy version of the AHM model, the shell top details are a bit different compared to the powered model. John BC, Canada
I like the paint scheme you chose for that, original Bakelite! Sort of a nice chocolate color. Have you ever tried using a heat gun to straighten out warped zinc? Maybe on something less valuable? I tried it on some Gilbert HO prewar parts and worked good, but then I realized those parts might have been lead castings, not zinc.
I did accidentally warp a zinc piece once while using a blow torch to melt lead into it! I thought of heating the sideframe to straighten it, but with the amount of visible fracturing, I decided not to risk it.
From 11:39 I think you needed an Allen Key to remove the screw holding the worm gear on the motor shaft.
I took a close look at the screw to see if something else was needed, but it really was just slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. My guess is the metals oxidized over the years and got stuck together, or the screw may have even been forced in instead of threading it properly.
Super. 💙 T.E.N.
Fun Fact, When Lionel got into 'HO' scale (1957-'66) they imported Rivarossi trains under the Lionel banner. Ironically when they droped Rivarossi A company called AHM(IHC) would pick them up.And, would be imported under the AHM banner.
Rivarestore has replica parts for these .Yor model is missing the boot on the back door.They have it if you want it all original
Thanks! I hadn’t heard of them before, so that’s good to know.
@@DarthSantaFe They are tricky to bring up right .If you search for it .Will bring up a PDF type of page that has all listing to enlarge .That is not it.The site page you need has 2 flags on it American and Italian TAN BACKGROUND and all the parts info and prices so you can order.They have parts for that motor ,top plate brushes and springs ect.... Click on the American flag and the site will go to English .Has part categories on the left of the page unless your fluent with Italian .
I edited this to get you a better description of the site. I ordered from them to get screws and side frames and all fit and look good along with containers they put the parts in is high end .
@@adamserafini6945 Thanks for the info! I did manage to find the website and see the part you're talking about. I'll probably leave it off, but it's good to know they're available if I ever want to add it on.
@@DarthSantaFe Those brass gears have an issue with a certain type of synthetic lube that has a chemical that eats the brass. There is a type 4 and 5 .One of them eats the brass.
I agree with your assessment of the model somewhat compared to the proto ,but a huge part of model railroad history or say engineering quality of it's day.Great to have a gem like this that still operates. Besides they had metal grab irons all around the thing that came with them that were pre bent with that Rivarossi quality precision to them .Should finish yours.Find that B-unit of that era is how rare?
I have a Lionel branded one from the 1950's that needs new windings on the armature. I've not done windings before, so unfortunately she's going to have to stay a shelf queen for a while 🫠
3-pole motors are at least easier to rewind, but the ball bearings can also be hard to deal with in these. It would be great to have it running again someday, I’m sure!
I wonder if a piece of copper wire with a dab of solder on either side would do as a pin?
It might, but I’d be concerned about how long the solder would last since it’s a soft alloy. It works well for hard connections, but I haven’t had much success using it in more flexible places.
You could of just swapped the magnet around to correct direction. . Probably put it in wrong way around.
Yes, but these older magnets sometimes lose their strength when removed from the field, so I wanted to be sure that didn’t happen. I also didn’t want to deal with the tiny ball bearings falling out. :)
wow assume
I have watched the SMT Mainline video on the locomotive. Great restoration you have done on this ‼️🫵👍✌️
TBH he’s something of a lightweight, he can rig an old Bachmann to run but I’ve never seen him build an old metal kit (for instance). His stuff is useful if you’re trying to resurrect old cheap locos though.
@@kriscarver-seaboyer9204 He doesn't have as much experience as I do (I've been at it probably 15 years longer), but he has come a long way! I think he did build a Roundhouse kit a while back and has done good work fixing some old models that were in really bad shape. We all have to start somewhere, and learn with time.